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UKB Power Club Week 78 Mon 8th - Sun 14th August (Read 5266 times)

tommytwotone

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Righto...another week gone!

STG: tick Da Cliff up to 6c+
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt, did have dinner cooked for me and drank some very passable Pinot Noir though.
T - Guisecliff - back on Trust (7b), progress. Got bitten by every midge in Yorkshire it seems.
W - Nowt, rested and cooked a huge curry.
T - Depot with tomtom, new red circuit (V5-V7) in very sweaty conditions. Flashed a good few.
F - Nowt, steak pie and chips for lunch with a couple of pints and then fish and chips for tea. With a couple of pints.
S - Down to Donny for Rovers vs the mighty West Ham - great day out, Irons victory, good few beers and then out in Leeds afterwards.
S - Felt like complete crap but went back to Depot. Didn't climb very well!


nai

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stg  :tumble:
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer

After two months watching the carbs and the cheese and the booze I've been mostly making up for it this week. 

Did try a first session on the Beastmaker on Tuesday but it didn't go well, fingers creaked and complained and the Beast mocked. 

Came down with the dreaded phleumoania on Thursday and had a dose of apathy which remains. 

Family holiday for two weeks on Thursday, might get chance for some short bouldering sessions, but probably just a good time to take time out, let the creaks subside and get heavy ready for an intensive autumn training schedule.  But for now  :beer2:

andy_e

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STG: Schist 7B
MTG: Hunter's Roof, various bits and bobs at Brimham
LTG: Grit 7C+

Monday: Geologising, rain.
Tuesday: Portlethen, Pendulum and the Pain, 7A+
Wednesday: Post-geologising beer.
Thursday: Prow left-hand, 7B
Friday: Geologising.
Saturday: Boltsheugh, wet.
Sunday: Geologising.

Monolith

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Trying to resume normal service. Feels like a new sport too which is amusing.

Mon - Fished
Tues - Fished
Weds - Cave
Thurs - Fished
Fri- Went wall and pulled hard in barrel wall. Drank pm
Sat - DIY with the don. Felt hungover to hell.
Sun - Had good session on barrel wall.

Project is only real goal for foreseeable future. Getting back some power is the main one. Just trying to enjoy the process.

tomtom

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Back in the saddle again.. Stg be as good as I was 3 months ago..

T: almscliff..
Th: depot with 3T
Su: Coney Dale

andybfreeman

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Goals as before

M - Rest day. Did a few pull ups and deadhangs between bouts of washing up

Tu - TCA after work. Mix of problems and circuit including the orange 7b 40 mover and good progress on the harder mothership problems. Saw osteo for first treatment on my back so feel beaten up this morning. Have been assigned some shoulder stability exercises, perfect for lunchtimes!

W - Training at home after work. Mix of pull ups, deadhangs, shoulder stability exercises with DBs and, for the first time in over a year, campus problems on my Asymetrix finger board. Split started to develop on right index tip across the join

Th - Sanded split back to smooth but thin skin so opted for another session of training at home after work. Mix of pull ups, deadhangs, leg raises and holds on the BM and shoulder stability exercises with DBs

F - TCA after work. Problems session working new whites and repeating quite a few blacks

Sa - TCA in the afternoon. Flashed one white + finished one I'd tried the day before. Good progress on mothership problems. Met a guy who's psyched for the cove so hopefully my lack of belayer woes are at an end!

Su - Rest with some core and shoulder stability exercises at home

Weight down to an average in the 65s, a new low  8). I'm well pleased with how easy it's been to lose weight over the past couple of months so it should be maintainable. Definitely noticing a difference particularly locking off on small holds.

duncan

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M - shoulder stability stuff
T - gentle rehab. stuff at The Arch
W - shoulder stability stuff
T - as Tuesday
F - nothing
S - Pembroke:  dodging showers, easy trad.
S - Pembroke: baking in the sun., more trad. inc a somewhat dodgy ascent of Traction Action (E3).  The crux went fine but the top is 4' to the right of Big Sea Running where useful runners and rests could be found...

Good Pembroke trip; shoulder is 70%, fitness is woeful having done no training and not much climbing since April, leading head is in good shape and getting me up routes.   


Muenchener

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STG:  Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a. Looking unlikely now.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (anything: Fish probably unlikely)
   Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

This week: probably my last chance for alpine multipitch this "summer" (sic), before family commitments move the focus to childcare (with hopefully a bit of bouldering) for the rest of the school hols.

M: yoga
T: bike to work 25km
W: Wall, Thalkirchen.
T:
F:
S: Ötztal with iwasmexican: afternoon roadside multipitch on Sonnenblume then evening sport climbing at Oberried
S: Kaisergebirge with iwasmexican. Sport multipitch in Wildanger. Best route Plaisir: nice slab then two long pitches laybacking up straightforward but steep cracks. Ages since I've done any climbing like that: tiring.  Rounded off the afternoon with a proper alpine experience, having a mini-epic with a jammed ab rope.
 

heelhookofglory

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M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: 21km / 462m ascent / 1258cals MTB ride followed by Beastmaker 2 sets of B2 repeaters.
F: Bouldering at AW Stoke, mainly threshold and movement training. Very hot evening.
S: 30km / 597m ascent / 1287cals MTB ride.
S: Shoulder and elbow prehab 3 x 15 of all eccentrics.

i_a_coops

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Been off climbing too much to update Power Club.  8)
Last few weeks: went climbing lots, lots of laps at Torbryan to sort out my stamina, lil' bit of Cheddar, Dartmoor, Avon, and Swanage.

Highlights:

Interrogation on Haytor - best trad route I've done in ages
Totally fluking my way up a 7b onsight at Torbryan.
Having to redpoint a 6b+ at Swanage - oops.
Thrutching up a steep 7a limb-jamming fest at Swanage, still feel beaten up

This trying-to-onsight-stuff malarkey makes a nice change I have to say

Luthor

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Nothing to report last week... ill with a cold and then away for a few days.

webbo

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Mon.Leeds wall on way to visit mother.repeated stuff I'd done on last visit plus a couple of v5's.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed.Rockcity tried stuff I'd not done really struggling repeated stuuf I did on saturday with a battle.
Thu. Light weights and deadhanging.
Fri.Nothing.
Sat. Same weights and deadhanging as Thurs.Bike 2 hrs 45 mins.
Sun.Bouldering Cloughton Wyke and Creek Point.Nearly managed a 7b able to do all the moves but ran out of umph on the link.Problems felt a bit damp not sure if they are always like this.Nearly managed to break both wrists going arse over tit on the seaweed.
Plan to try and build myself up before elbow op.

 

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