[cofe]

given the descriptions in current guides don't match the rock, has anyone actually done this problem or indeed know where it goes? it's described as sit-start left hand layaway to edge to jump to sloper and pocket. this makes no sense when looking at the rock. and it's not supposed to be the sitter to galaxy dove.

any help appreciated. ta.

[ferret]

description is right except the sit start bit, didnt do it but remember it was good but maybe a little hard on skin?

[cofe]

So it's an eliminate on galaxy dove?

[ferret]

i remember it being a metre or so right of galaxy dove, but its bin years since i was up there.......

[cofe]

I'd imagine that's where it should be, but the descriptions make no sense when stood in front of the rock. I don't know anyone else who's done it!

[fatdoc]

IIRC

yeah, off to the right... lovely sloping ramp bit to match on????

this could be v bogus....

[rainbow]

Always thought this was a Jason Myers problem, but looking at his black and yellow bible was listed as a project, could have done after mind you. Tried it but couldn't make much progress, obvious left hand on sidepull/undercut thing (lower circle) right hand on scallop thing (upper circle). Maybe spanning further right is the key,  all a bit blank as I remember. Never understood the bit about the pocket mind.

[fatdoc]

yep, I'm bogus.

wrong block.

sorry

[cofe]

Thanks rainbow. That's really helpful.

[Andy B]

On another Derwent tip. I looked at what I think is this the other day:



(I hope that has worked as I can't see photobucket at work)


I assume that Ripple Roof is an eliminate, as, if this is the same roof, you can climb it without using the crimps at a much easier grade?

[rainbow]

umm, its the same roof. The way I tried Ripple Roof was to pull on those crimps/undercut holds and throw diagonally right for what I remember to be a sloping rail which led in to the lip proper. Admittedly if you've got a biggish span it would be fairly easy. Would it have been original done by going for the lip directly?? The lip traverse, start sitting off rail was a better prob me thinks.

[Andy B]

That's the one. From the big break at the back I spanned comfortably (5'8"), and in line with the crimps, to the sloping rail, then through to the lip and over.  More like 6a/b than 7a/b I think.

[cofe]

It must have been a direct/eliminate originally? You could imagine them going up there to find 'hard moves' and having to improvise a bit.

[Andy B]

Evidently, although it couldn't be any more direct, and is more of an eliminate in the sense of adding obligatory holds and moves like Stoney or Pinches wall, as opposed to an eliminate in the sense of actually eliminating holds like Blind Fig or Help The Young. Pleasant enough little roof as a natural line though.

[cofe]

umm, its the same roof. The way I tried Ripple Roof was to pull on those crimps/undercut holds and throw diagonally right for what I remember to be a sloping rail which led in to the lip proper. Admittedly if you've got a biggish span it would be fairly easy. Would it have been original done by going for the lip directly?? The lip traverse, start sitting off rail was a better prob me thinks.

could you suggest a grade for the ripple roof lip trav?

[rainbow]

could you suggest a grade for the ripple roof lip trav?

Now your asking. Roughly about F6a.