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Verdinand at Brooonstooones (Read 1210 times)

rginns

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Verdinand at Brooonstooones
June 15, 2010, 03:48:24 pm
Can get to the crimpy juggy things half way up but then keep getting shut down on the top move. I don't have the lank to get the high crimps and the matchstick crimp in the groove feels utterly desparate for 6b. If it was a case of just pulling I'd blame my weakness but it feels like any other way is just impossible...

Has anyone done it a different way ?

(Lanks need not apply  ;D )

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#1 Re: Verdinand at Brownstones Quarry
June 15, 2010, 03:55:13 pm
Use your lank feet.

I assume you're getting the 2 crimps on either side of the break?  There's a polished LF smear (if my memory is correct) that you can rock onto to get a higher pair of (poorer) crimps then the top. 

rginns

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#2 Re: Verdinand at Brooonstooones
June 15, 2010, 04:06:36 pm
footwork? Fuck that!  ;)
Currently:  going off the small sidepull semi-dynamically to the set of 2 good crimps at the same level as the Verdigris jug, then I can't figure where to  go next...
I'll look for that smear next time, didn't see anything obvious.
I take it the right hand slopey high foot crimp is out though? cheers

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#3 Re: Verdinand at Brooonstooones
June 15, 2010, 04:14:04 pm
I take it the right hand slopey high foot crimp is out though? cheers

Not sure which one you mean, but if it's in the groove use it.

 

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