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staggered bowden (Read 1570 times)

cruisie

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staggered bowden
May 09, 2010, 03:51:30 pm
anyone got any tips on how to get across to the undercut on this cant seem to work it out can get to the pinch with right hand and left on arete then i get stuck anyone got any good beta for the next bit or even a vid would be good. also  anyone else have a problem with the heelhook on transformer LH i cant get a heel atall and if i just use a toehook im to streched out to turn the hold. cheers for any help

adam_NE5

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#1 Re: staggered bowden
May 09, 2010, 08:48:16 pm
The beta for this problem is quite height dependant really. I'm 6'2'' and when I do it i reach the pinch with my right hand with my right toe on one of the starting handholds, stand up, swap feet and put my right foot way out right on a small edge and then bring my left hand into the faint rib in between the arete and the pinch just as an intermediate hold. Then its just the slightly scary cross into the undercut above the pinch and match to finish!

Hope this helps, as for transformer left hand it sounds like you are doing it right you just have to get your toe or heel to stick, doing that and flipping hte hand is the crux, although the rest isnt easy!

cruisie

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#2 Re: staggered bowden
May 10, 2010, 07:55:40 pm
cheers for that adam sounds like i was trying it the right way just need to man up a bit next time

punkpunk

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#3 Re: staggered bowden
June 11, 2010, 05:10:30 pm
staggered - i got the pinch then went again to the undercut, matched feet then kicked right foot out wide and high pulled and crossed through to the higher sidepull undercut in the flake...

transformer - i cut loose as a switched to undercut, one of the guys who was shorter did something different but i can't remember what, not much help sorry  ::) (think it involved a controled drop of the leg and a lower foot hold......)

 

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