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Shirleys Shining Temple (Read 8699 times)

Graham Hoey

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#25 Re: Shirleys Shining Temple
October 18, 2008, 07:07:10 pm
Hi,
The line of Shirley's is closer to the line diagram in the old guide (i drew it in!). The newer line is wrong. I vaguely remember early attempts on this. Starting by using an undercut for the right hand and stretching way up above the scoop to reach a sharp knife edge of a pebble with two fingers of the left hand at full stretch, you only had about three goes on this as it held by cutting into the skin! (I think right of here now is a shallow dish-type hold which didn't use to be there). My right hand then went into the scoop where there was a single poor pebble. The only way I could use this was to put the first and second finger together and slot the V shape made by the nails over the pebble. Needless to say after two attempts both nails ripped down the side, I fell off ripping skin of the left fingers as well. I stemmed the blood from both injuries by stuffing chalk into them and had another go. The right-hand pebble broke and I gave in, walking off and doing DIY on-sight in disgust. The actual ascent went more smoothly, but I clearly remember rocking left onto a pebble in a break and virtually holding my breath as every move got easier and easier as I got higher. Halcyon days.
Graham

andy popp

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#26 Re: Shirleys Shining Temple
October 18, 2008, 07:16:51 pm
Hello Graham. Halcyon days indeed. Welcome to UKB!

Graham Hoey

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#27 Re: Shirleys Shining Temple
October 18, 2008, 07:23:35 pm
Hi Andy,
Thanks. Just getting back into bouldering. I was ill for some time and stopped. Having the Climbing Works on my route back home certainly helps. It'd be great to get out together sometime.
All the best.
graham

al

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#28 Re: Shirleys Shining Temple
October 21, 2008, 10:59:27 am
nice graham, my fingers are bleeding in sympathy - whats the story with the starts ie; was yours a more direct start than JA, or did he climb this start also?

 

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