UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: dave on February 09, 2008, 10:21:54 pm
-
Some time ago (summer 2006?) someone posted a thread about some new thing they'd done out the back of secret garden. since I was there today and it was boiling we decided top check this out again. clearly people have been on this recently as there was chalk on the original problem, plus newer looking brushmarks on the right. anyway, I'm just posting all this up to get a reminder of who actually did what here and if any of these had names etc, cos as the title sugests I can't find that original thread.
The main purpose of this is to remind people these exist, cos they are nice, good landings, pleasant rock and good shady stuff to be had here, plus its a change from the usual secret garden sircuit.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/secret_back_topo.jpg)
A. this is the problem someone reported, rock from the starting jug out left with heel on a cleaned foothold to the top vis and intermediate sloper if you need it. Can't remember what this was given, we thought 6cish.
B. This has been cleaned up by someone, seemed a good problem, 7aish? from the jug rail, get a good LH edge, RH up to toper out right then rock onto a heel on the jugs to a poor edge out left the top.
Theres also one or two combo "lefthand middle direct ferret dick" style problems to be had twixt the above two for the blinkered gent wanting to get the most out of his pay-and-display ticket....
-
Here's that thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5338.0.html
-
good arrows sir! (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5338.msg73865.html#msg73865)
-
We never did the line to the right on the closest block as it was damp/snow covered on our visits.
Hare's Ear/The talented mr kipling is also worth finding as its a good sized block with good moves.
-
Any photo's? hopefully my project is still safe.
Did you pay and display then dave?
-
i was clean out of change alas.
-
Looking at the picture posted by Dave, I just noticed the whole block looks a bit like a hare's ear (bear with me now). Which makes me wonder whether maybe the RH prob (B on photo) is in fact the thing Kim told me about (as mentioned in linked thread) i.e. the 7a problem he called Hare's Ear. In which case The Talented Mr Kipling might be an FA after all, as opposed to being the same line as Hare's Ear as I said on the other thread. Will have to check with KT.
-
I understand all the individual words in the above post, but it still reads like double dutch. All i know is you're currently in close proximity to some kind of Ursidoid. Grizzly or Kodiak?
-
Kershaw may be very hairy but I don't think he's a bear. More of a Llama if you ask me
-
I always had him down as an alpaca. They all piss in the same pot.
-
More of a Llama if you ask me
A one "l" lama, or a two "ll" llama?
Or is this getting a bit Ogden Nash.
Looks like a breaching Grey Whale to me.
-
Some kind of frog maybe, but I can't see where you're coming from with the grey whale thing
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3064/2311739685_80788f3b9c.jpg)
-
or a two "ll" llama?
Wouldn't that make it a llllama? Some kind of Welsh Spiritual Beast?
-
Oh you mean Llllama, son of Llllllama, brother of Llllllllama, sister of Ermintrude the Cow and wicked step-uncle of Llam-ra - the Ev-er Llisping? :-\
-
Annoying in the mornings. A llama’s woken me up so many times…
Could that pun be any llama?
-
Watch out R-Man, BonJoy may getcha for Pun Crimes again :lol:
-
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/secret_back_topo.jpg)
A. this is the problem someone reported, rock from the starting jug out left with heel on a cleaned foothold to the top vis and intermediate sloper if you need it. Can't remember what this was given, we thought 6cish.
B. This has been cleaned up by someone, seemed a good problem, 7aish? from the jug rail, get a good LH edge, RH up to toper out right then rock onto a heel on the jugs to a poor edge out left the top.
Went and found these today. I also thought that they were good problems, though I did problem B slightly differently: reaching into the diagonal crack/seam from the righthand sloper.
Back towards Secret Garden we also found a nice little slab at about 6b up it's centre, and a good easy problem laybacking it's right arete.
-
anyone been to find the talented Mr Kipling? it is exceedingly good.
-
Can't find an Owler Tor thread, but it's all the same area. Had a couple of dry hours at Owler Tor and we did a sitter to the spider crack arete, on its left, with trickiness to get to the good slot. Has this been done before? Name? Easiest way seemed to be a weird sitstart to toe jam then guppy. Felt about 7a.
-
did you go out to the jug slot on the left wall? I did this problema few years back, thought 7a-ish.
-
Yep, that's the badger. Odd moves (if you can't reach the good handholds) to get established, then an easy reach to the jug. So this has no name then?
-
i didn't give it a name or anything cos when i did it i had to roll a big rock out of the way to enable the sitstart. Did the problem then looked at the turfless hole the boulder had left and was worried it was a bit ugly and would turn into an instant puddle and cause errosion etc. So i moved the rock back where it was and left it unrecorded. Went back the following year and someone had shifted the rock anyway. I could think up a name maybe.
-
Sisyphus?
(I think I've done this problem too but found it quite reach dependent and may have more than one mat to sit on)
-
If you don't name it, it will become known as Friend Slot Sitstart, since Friend Slot is the name of the standup in the BMC guide. Sisyphus is a good suggestion.
The obvious method is quite reach dependant FD, and I originally thought it would be 7B-ish without lank, but it turns out there's quite a funky static solution that isn't that hard (and doesn't require multiple mats).
-
R-Man I think your name is better for a sitter. I only mentioned Sisyphus as I pictured Dave, wracked with erosion torment trundling his boulder back and forth. I certainly cheated when I did it so good effort figuring out the beta and taking the effort to report it :)
-
The obvious method is quite reach dependant FD, and I originally thought it would be 7B-ish without lank, but it turns out there's quite a funky static solution that isn't that hard (and doesn't require multiple mats).
I don't think its that reachy really - the summer after I did it I was there and the showpony and Look North's favourite basejumper both did it OK with the same sequence as me. I seem to remember starting with LH undercutting, RH round the arete on some seam, LF smearing and RF crounched up in the break (possible foot jam?). Pulled on, got as much right leg as possible around the arete, made a RH move (not sure what to, probably arete or another seam), possibly a LH shuffle to another low hold out left then a hard crux kick move with left foot to a good foothold way out left, then stand up sideways for the slot jug. It was sort of on the borderline between shit and great.
-
Ah yes, the reachy sequence. ;)
I did the crux kick move first, then hung off the footjam and walked hands up the arete. Then easy reach to jug.