UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: felipefm on July 25, 2019, 05:03:23 pm
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hiya! newbie indoors here interested in buying new shoes as the new bouldering centre I'm going has no student discount for shoes rent haha, so it would be expensive there! I'm currently doing v3's and some v4's, if that means anything, so any tips on good for value climbing shoes for indoors at that level would be very appreciated. the cheapest one I found was a Simond at Decathlon for 29.99, but there are some climb x and evolvs between 60-70 pounds. i it worth to invest in those for my level or to get the cheapest one and invest in the future would be better? I'm Birmingham based. cheers!
Felipe.
[edit: I'm a size 10.5/11 depending on the model]
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[edit: I'm a size 10.5/11 depending on the model]
Which models are you an 11 in Dan?
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Hi Felipe don’t worry about specific models just try as many as you can, which are in your price range, at the slightly less technical end of the spectrum.
Go with whichever fits best, your first shoe will never be perfect but it will inform you tons about the next set of shoes you buy. Your best bet is to try and get to an independent climbing shop with some staff who hopefully know a bit about shoes. Most wall staff these days will have had some form of training and should be able to point you in the right direction.
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The cheap Simond shoes are absolutely fine. Starting at £40 they have Vibram rubber (at least on the most important parts), and I wouldn't get any of their shoes that doesn't have Vibram.
Since routesetters don't like to change into proper climbing shoes and do most of their setting in approach shoes most problems use big boxes for feet anyway — so there is no reason whatsoever to use good shoes indoor. I stopped using good shoes indoors years ago. As long as there is some decent rubber under the toes there is no difference at all between differnt climbing shoes.
IMHO, YMMV and all that.
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+1
What Moo and jwi said, with this caveat: a decent quality shoe will help you learn to use your feet better, especially if you get the opportunity to venture outside. As a first shoe I'd get the minimum quality to do this.
I run a school climbing club and the next Simond shoe up in the range (which jwi refers to)works very well for us. I'd spend the extra £10 if you can. Be aware they'll stretch out about half a size.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/rock-shoes-grey-id_8495164.html
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Thanks to all the replies, those are really good tips... I'm less reluctant to get the Simond now, but I'll get them if I don't find anything else used or on a really good sale hahah. Cheers!
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The cheap Simond shoes are absolutely fine. Starting at £40 they have Vibram rubber (at least on the most important parts), and I wouldn't get any of their shoes that doesn't have Vibram.
Since routesetters don't like to change into proper climbing shoes and do most of their setting in approach shoes most problems use big boxes for feet anyway — so there is no reason whatsoever to use good shoes indoor. I stopped using good shoes indoors years ago. As long as there is some decent rubber under the toes there is no difference at all between differnt climbing shoes.
IMHO, YMMV and all that.
do you think it's worth the extra 20 pounds-ish for this one? https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/la-sportiva-tarantula-climbing-shoes/?aid=873a5b57dc8ddb02a4b2623f3cac3e2f&pid=10004&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyerpBRD9ARIsAH-ITn_QuBa9yrN0L_tGnQsjJQhOQgSAlUxUmtRV0knvV2r79nnfD5pLqwQaAvtTEALw_wcB&wt_mc=uk.pla.google_uk.393201547.25885630867.104604048787
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Climbing shoes need to fit pretty snug to work well. What matters most is whether they fit your foot well; you’ll need to try them on to discover. Even different models within a brand can have radically different lasts.
Personally, I’d go cheap-but-okay first time; after that you’ll know better what suits you. They’ll wear out soon enough anyway.
But those are decent shoes, yes.
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Climbing shoes need to fit pretty snug to work well. What matters most is whether they fit your foot well; you’ll need to try them on to discover. Even different models within a brand can have radically different lasts.
Personally, I’d go cheap-but-okay first time; after that you’ll know better what suits you. They’ll wear out soon enough anyway.
But those are decent shoes, yes.
thx! I'll try to pop by a decathlon and try some on.
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The cheap Simond shoes are absolutely fine. Starting at £40 they have Vibram rubber (at least on the most important parts), and I wouldn't get any of their shoes that doesn't have Vibram.
Since routesetters don't like to change into proper climbing shoes and do most of their setting in approach shoes most problems use big boxes for feet anyway — so there is no reason whatsoever to use good shoes indoor. I stopped using good shoes indoors years ago. As long as there is some decent rubber under the toes there is no difference at all between differnt climbing shoes.
IMHO, YMMV and all that.
do you think it's worth the extra 20 pounds-ish for this one? https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/la-sportiva-tarantula-climbing-shoes/?aid=873a5b57dc8ddb02a4b2623f3cac3e2f&pid=10004&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyerpBRD9ARIsAH-ITn_QuBa9yrN0L_tGnQsjJQhOQgSAlUxUmtRV0knvV2r79nnfD5pLqwQaAvtTEALw_wcB&wt_mc=uk.pla.google_uk.393201547.25885630867.104604048787
jwi, I went to decathlon to try these 39,90 pounds one from Simond and the vibram rubber is only from half the shoes onward the toe. is that normal or more expensive shoes have the whole soles made of it? sorry if that's a stupid question hahah. I actually bought the Simond ones.
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Toes are the most important part.
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Yeah, under the toes are by far the most important part. The heels the second most important part, but by the time that you have use for tricky friction depending heel hooks you will not be on your first part of shoes.