UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: Will Hunt on October 07, 2016, 01:28:36 pm
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Early, I know, but going on hols tonight so it's the end of the climbing week for me.
M:
T: 2nd regular board session. Warmed up and had a play on some new projects. Then moved onto this AnCap thing I'm supposed to be doing. Did 3 sets of 4 reps. 1 rep = a problem mostly on jugs, lasting about 40 seconds, then 1 minutes rest. During the course of the 3 sets I fine tuned the sequence as it started off too awkward, then too easy, and on the final set managed to get it just right. This is what it looked like on the second set. I've tweaked this to add a couple of crimpy moves on the end which are quite a struggle on the later reps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N9ajJI5rVY
Does that look like the right sort of thing?
W: Felt pretty decent. Could tell I'd had a session the night before but not completely wasted.
T: Lantern session at Earl Crag. Good connies: just under 10 degrees, decent easterly breeze, not too humid. Warmed up with a few laps and hangs on the lovely Warm Up Arete (which really deserves classic status as an easy problem - holds it's own for quality with any of the easies at Almscliff). Then got stuck into Andy Brown's Wall which went without too much trouble, just a case of getting the high layaway well and using the correct right toehold. Then moved onto Handy Andy's which I've tried on a couple of occasions in previous years and struggled with. Took a little longer than I'd hoped as I inexplicably started using some crap foot beta after a couple of good goes at the start and didn't get another good go till I re-sussed where I should be putting my right toe. Anyway, felt like a really tough problem, wouldn't argue if it slipped into the 7B category. Maybe one for you to try, Shark!
Just about had time to play on The Flakes but had to call it a night when I landed awkwardly and rolled my ankle a bit. Doesn't feel too good this morning. Left ankle. If I try and rotate it in a circle in either direction I get to about the 2/3 o'clock position and have to stop. It just sort of gets stuck and there's pain. If I push through the pain it sort of clicks through. Almost like there's something catching on something where it shouldn't be and with a bit of encouragement it just pushes past it. Not a good sign but I can walk and drive, and probably climb and fall off things, without problems. I gather there's not much you can do about ankles other than leave them to sort themselves out so will see how it gets on over the next week and then maybe get it seen to when back from holiday if it's not right. Any thoughts on what I might have done to it?
F: Skins all intact and fingers feel like they've had a nice workout.
Quite happy with the session at Earl. Was concerned that I might come back to bouldering and be completely useless, but doing a new 7B and a 7A+ (that could hold it's own against some 7Bs that are out there) in a short session is about as well as I would normally hope to perform. So all may not be lost.
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Any thoughts on what I might have done to it?
Quite happy with the session at Earl. Was concerned that I might come back to bouldering and be completely useless, but doing a new 7B and a 7A+ (that could hold it's own against some 7Bs that are out there) in a short session is about as well as I would normally hope to perform. So all may not be lost.
1. You've rolled your ankle
2. Handy Andy's is never 7b. Andy Browns wall is far harder!
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Hmmm. When I've twisted my ankle before it's been an "all over" pain and I've limped for a couple of days. This is painless and limpless but for one specific part of the ankle which is painful when placed in a particular position. No idea what that means. Is that what everyone else was experiencing when they said they'd "rolled their ankle"?
Weird question, soz. In a similar vein, I still don't know whether I've ever had heartburn or indigestion. No idea what they're supposed to feel like.
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T: Then moved onto this AnCap thing I'm supposed to be doing. Did 3 sets of 4 reps. 1 rep = a problem mostly on jugs, lasting about 40 seconds, then 1 minutes rest.
Sounds like too little rest for AnCap, you should be looking at 2-4 times your work time. Shorter rest time required means lower intensity work so you have to try and strike a balance, for bouldering (Red Baron Roof?) aims I'd guess higher intensity with longer rests would be best?
Also don't see any mention of AeroCap, apparently if you work AnCap without AeroCap you'll end up going backwards in terms of what you're trying to achieve. There's technical explanations of what happens out there if you search.
Can't say this is what you need for RBR though, I'd guess at long & burly? Guess it can't hurt learning to hold on through suffering though.
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Is there a link which explains this AnCap, AeroCap, AnPow stuff? I've never seen the explanation behind it, it just started appearing in people's lingo. I expect the fashion will change soon and everyone will be talking about improving their Beast Index or some shit. If AeroCap stands for aerobic capacity then surely that is absolutely no help for a 10 move boulder problem? Dave MacLeod had a whole chapter of his book that was simply called "Climbing is not an aerobic activity".
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There's Barrows doc: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23652.0
Scan down to Tommy's input.
Aerobic Capacity meaning of the forearms not your cardiovascular lung capacity which I think DMC was getting at.
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Is there a link which explains this AnCap, AeroCap, AnPow stuff? I've never seen the explanation behind it, it just started appearing in people's lingo. I expect the fashion will change soon and everyone will be talking about improving their Beast Index or some shit. If AeroCap stands for aerobic capacity then surely that is absolutely no help for a 10 move boulder problem? Dave MacLeod had a whole chapter of his book that was simply called "Climbing is not an aerobic activity".
:-\ I find it hard to believe that you are such an active member of this forum and you don't know anything about this stuff yet.
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Just climb faster. Seriously it's easier to understand than all that stuff - and takes less time than training for it!
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Thanks for the link. I'll read that tomorrow.
I'll try and climb faster, but it's not possible to complete a boulder problem of about 10 moves in an infinitely small amount of time. There is a limit to the effectiveness of combing fast!
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Is there a link which explains this AnCap, AeroCap, AnPow stuff? I've never seen the explanation behind it, it just started appearing in people's lingo. I expect the fashion will change soon and everyone will be talking about improving their Beast Index or some shit.
If you've started doing 'AnCap' having never seen the explanation behind it, more fool you.
If you're going to start using this approach, then just take the time to understand it as much as you can. Simple as that, don't just moan because you've decided to hop on the bandwagon without doing any research.
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I read The Barrows Manifesto on the plane today and it makes a sort of sense. It is obviously geared, understandably, towards sport climbing, which makes it a bit trickier for a sport science ignoramus to put the information to use in such a way that may assist somebody trying to tip the scales of fortune in their favour on a burly boulder problem.
Nathaniel said I should do AnCap and, thus, I shall do some AnCap. Ben said I should go to the Depot and swing off the roofs three times per week which, besides being logistically improbable, sounds like a bit of a blunt instrument to me.
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Ben said I should go to the Depot and swing off the roofs three times per week which, besides being logistically improbable, sounds like a bit of a blunt instrument to me.
Yes but Mrs Peacock still managed to bludgeon Colonel Mustard with a candlestick didn't she.
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I read The Barrows Manifesto on the plane today and it makes a sort of sense. It is obviously geared, understandably, towards sport climbing, which makes it a bit trickier for a sport science ignoramus to put the information to use in such a way that may assist somebody trying to tip the scales of fortune in their favour on a burly boulder problem.
Listen to Tom's Training Beta podcast, he gives a case study of a plan he did for a boulderer wanting to do a long problem with some of the reasoning science behind it. From about 50 minutes. Might help, might not....
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Mon DCC being taught stuff about coaching. Managed to do a few laps on long link up so some training value too.
Tues DCC hard boulders session
Wed Endurance at Newton Aycliffe 9 x 25m routes attempted with a good block of 7c+ / 8a links mid session.
Thurs Rest day much extra stretching and antagonists training. Short sharp finger strength session pm with the pinch machine.
Friday Much sleeping loafing stretching and working on ankle rehab
Sat Endurance at NA 9x25m routes with longer links on the 7c+ routes mid session.
Sun Resting loafing and stretching. Penultimate week of training plan completed. Still relatively strong from the strength phase and endurance building significantly... Finished off climbing up and down steep 25m 6c.
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goals - Aberration, Body Machine, 7b OS, E4 OS.
Mon - rest
Tue - Body Machine, made it through lower wall for first time, fell at start of traverse. Bit of a break-through session
W rest
Thu - BM
sorted rest positions a bit better
reworked top section to include a crossover move starting the traverse saves two hand moves and a lot of changing body position.
Never made it through bottom wall on RP attempts but managed to work something I can do consistently for the move after the horrible press off the gaston.
Friday - Woke up suffering with sore skin and tired muscles but with habrich's post in mind
I was reminded that the only way to make this redpoint thing work is to keep showing-up and keep putting in the burns, regardless of how I feel.
I did a long, slow warm up at home and headed out, knew a mate was going to be there on it so figured I'd have at least one shot at it. Maybe, just maybe....
Burn 1 - from the floor all the way up to the end of the traverse, had a mind freeze and used a wrong foothold, too high so that you then can't lean out slightly to spot the foothold to standup into the break on. Waved my foot in the general direction of the hold until my arms gave out. Bugger, couple of moves from a final shake before much easier finishing moves. Did I say Bugger already?
Burn 2 - fell off the Gaston move low down. Rarely get this twice in a row for some reason. Pulled straight back on and lead through to the top, so got the historic 7c tick which I'd have taken 2 weeks ago, but not now I can do the lower wall.
SS rest
Feels frustrating but probably shouldn't, come along way this week, lots of reasons to be positive and having linked the original I now know i can do it, I can definitely get enough back on the undercuts shake before the rockover, it'll make no odds whether I climbed from the floor from there on. But however long it now takes it'll be slightly marred by the fact that I should have done it on Friday. Hopefully back on it tomorrow.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N9ajJI5rVY
Jeez Will - just checked out the video having been away from my PC all week.
No wonder its all going wrong. FFS man, theres no music playing, no swearing AND no pictures of Wolfgang, Jerry or Ben (or all together) training.... WHAT KIND OF TWISTED TRAINING ESTABLISHMENT HAVE YOU CREATED????????
( ;) )
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10.11 - 11.2
M.
T. Screwed up with Malham plans so stayed local. Went to CragX. Condensed but not impossibly so. Felt good warming up and deadhanging off the rail but conditions not good enough to do the moves and didn't improve despite attempts to dry holds. Popped to Tor to chat with Nick, nai and Mark Richardson
W. Llanberis. Quick hit with Nick. Nivce day but trad head fucked. Failed on two E3s and followed an E4. Dont really want to talk about it.
T.
F. Malham. Up with Luke Dawson and Jerome. Ended up climbing with Richard and Nemo :wave: . Started at 19degrees and dropped to 13 but humidity went up from 70s topping out at 89% so far from ideal - really still, even a bit midgy at times. . Cons x 3. Go 1 Warm up and did horn to top Go 2 Ground to slightly overshooting the horn (a first) Go 3 Ground to stubbing thumb on horn Go 3 Got through to horn ;D then unexpectedly greased off sidepull going right :( Go 4 Attempted from second bolt and did three goes fumbling horn each time. Then did from throw to top in various sections. Nice to be climbing in a brand new pair of whites (only two replacement pairs left now). Richard looking really strong on Rainshadow especially factoring in conditions.
S.
S.
Conditions are continuing to look to be on the humid side this week. Yet to have a mint day on it. Booked to go Monday but no firm plans for rest of week thoufgh would prefer friday so I can get a rematch at CragX on weds. Lost 4lbs this week. Scarcely drinking - just had one pint on monday and two sips of gin last night - dont even crave it any more. Weight loss is quite rapid but still safely in 8-10% body fat zone. Will aim to keep losing more until Oak gets wet which may not be very long now.
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A poor week....
After Sundays 'ate something bad' multiple toilet visit illness....
M > W Fieldwork in Shropshire. Didnt eat especially well (didnt really feel like it to be honest) and no time for any exercise or wall visits :(
W > Sa London with the in laws. All very nice - few drinks, some nice food - no climbing - long drive back up on Sat...
Su: Managed to squeeze out a decent hour at Helsby. Not climbing too bad, raw power good, knack less so....
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M- Rare day off work, beautiful weather, wenr to Isatis, warmed up on one blue problem, then got into L'incommode https://bleau.info/isatis/3040.html, took a while to get the sequence, but was fairly O.K in the end, not really 6A with the sidepull, but good fun nonetheless. Tried a few other things, got close on a slab I've been trying for a while...
- Rest of week, nothing. Tired, bit sniffly, feeling lazy.
Su - Rocher canon, trying to knock off some more from my tick list, not happening today, felt the best ever on Caprice https://bleau.info/canon/1766.html, but not quite. Bateau pilote https://bleau.info/canon/1663.html O.K, but sun directly in my eyes put paid to continuing. Had 2 sessions on L'oeuf de colombe https://bleau.info/canon/3306.html, good fun with a lot of people trying, holds got greasy quickly. Did a really soft 6A in between. Have to do something different at Rocher Canon, every visit is ibecoming dentical.
Cut out carbs in the evening, eating lots of different veg, weight down to 75.4kg yesterday...then I cracked for a kebab...
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STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A
M:
T: Indoors, bouldering and some FOC
W: Squash, beat housemate
T: Indoors, more FOC and did a green at the Arch (v6-8) for the first time in over a year, definitely soft
F:
S: Froggatt, spent a lot of time getting close to Old King Cascade, sent it! :2thumbsup: Vid here:
https://vimeo.com/186175369
Then checked out Suavito, was too buggered to make much headway. Moved onto Mark's Roof at the end of the day, came close but slopers still too sweaty
S: Heavy night so not much crushing today. Did Bullworker at Stanage which was really nice.
Fairly productive week, sick weekend!
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Goals:
Big goal - Picnic Sarcastic.
Grit – Grit 7 specifically Piss & G.
Lime - Solid 7B+ maybe 7C should be within me this year.
Training - 50kgs for 10s on small BM edge and 1-4-7 campus. (PBs 40.5kg & 1-4-6)
M- Man plague.
T- Still under the weather, but quick visit to Beginner’s to (have a look at Measles :wave:) work Advanced Training, 7C/+. After a fair few goes I finally managed to do almost as well as I had done the very first time I pulled on. A very interesting problem – but is it within me at all…? Also went to Rubicon to, basically, suck.
W- “Date day”. The first day in an age that my other half and I were child free. We went to Stanage for some easy trad, of course. Damn it’s been a long time since I had to fiddle those metal things into cracks.
T- Blackwell again to, this time, fail on Free Range Abattoir. I thought it would be as easy as Red or Dead had been the week before. Wrong! It’s a different sport entirely. Also went to Gib Torr to fail on Stall, 7A. Class problem. A second visit to FRA and I met someone who told me different beta to fail with. Turns out there's another way too. So I now have three ways that all seem impossible. Great!
F- rest.
S- Early morning session at Griffs (failed to do Ovine, but re-wired the first moves, should go next time out), Beginners (felt much stronger on Advanced Training, but not sure I am forging a path to success), and with the last of my flagging strength I thought I would go and quickly repeat RoD to at least come back with something. Wrong again. The start felt so easy too. Lots of failure but a lot to take away.
Came home and, just to see if I’ve still got it, put 38kgs round my waist and hung the small BM hold for 10 seconds. Easy. 50kgs could easily be in reach if I wasn't outside so much. Haven’t used the BM in 2 months but clearly all this outside puntering hasn't set me back too much.
S- Rest. Made a big discovery though about the Advance Training beta – the way I was trying it which is similar(ish) to the video of Ash doing it (he is *way* stronger than me!), goes LH to vertical hold, RH to the right side of the central Steel/Swing hold. However, Neil (the FA) went LH vert then LH again, and the Andy B (the 2nd A) went RH vert then LH up. There are three ways to skin this cat too! Please PM me with any cheeky beta if you have it, especially if you are short (5’7”).
I am thinking that with my current levels of strength it really is my lack of technique, flexibility, determination and vision that lets me down. Plan to work on this "going for it" weakness somehow in the coming weeks. Currently lurgy-free though so hopefully next week should be better.
Weight-63.2kgs ave. Nice. Could maintain this long-term which still feels surreal as it was an unbelievable goal weight for so long.
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in
July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Strength phase
M. Spent hours scoping new lines on a rope at crag x. Eventually put lower-off in another newie, might be an 8, will find out in a few weeks when I'm next over.
T. Flew back
W. Pilbox wall after work. Short 1hr lamp sesh on millenium drive .
T.
F.
S. Core and mobe sesh.
S. Pilbox wall. Best sesh yet on millenium drive! Getting through hard drop down move and into the whisky bitch traverse. Feels like 7C+ to me... Minty crisp connies today, best yet.
Wheels have fallen off training plan a bit in the last month or so, lack of psyche due to family illness, hectic work and distractions of the NI commute. Good to see progress on M.D. On the bright side if I do manage Mecca this year I'll only have two more sport grades to go until I'm good enough for E6 os...
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June
S. Pilbox wall. Best sesh yet on millenium drive! Getting through hard drop down move and into the whisky bitch traverse. Feels like 7C+ to me... Minty crisp connies today, best yet.
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It was originally, I did the 2nd ascent in 2002 then Mule downgraded it on the 3rd ascent and it stuck. Its a hard 7C though for sure.
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M. Felt terrible all day at work. Gym in the evening for some core which grew to deadlifting and more weights
T Wave, but I was tired from Sunday and Monday night. Didnt have a lot of pull and my elbow hurt a lot. I know from experience that when it gets like that its best to rest, so decided not to climb for the rest of the week. Started tidying out the cellar for new Broadband next week and found 2 cases of wine I'd forgotten about which need drinking quickly. Bollocks
W Skating at lunchtime. Nearly did a backside rock n roll - hopefully will manage it next time. HIT with weights including squat presses which are nails.
T MTB at Parkwood Springs lunchtime. On my new Whyte T130RS which is a great bike
F
S MTB, Houndkirk, Blacka Moor. I thought I wasn't very riding fit but I did it in pretty much a best time. My new bike literally just flies over bumps :)
S. Bulgarian Bag 3 exercise HIT. Squat press, swings, press ups. Sounds easy, but wasn't :strongbench:
I'll start climbing again tomorrow
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STG: Moon Board 6B+
MTG (2016/spring): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Sella Pass. Awoke to a light dusting of snow. Tried to remain optimistic until after breakfast, then discovered that under the snow on the car was a thick layer of ice. Bailed to lower altitudes at Mahr, a little sport crag on the way home near Brixen, where we did a really nice 6c+ with super-technical moves on little slopy granite edges. A good day, even though sitting for bloody hours in bank holiday traffic jams listening to Jam Crack on the way home was less fun. (Liked the Tommy Caldwell interview though)
T: Bike one hour.
W: Had planned to go to the wall, but felt like I was going down with a cold (again - bollox) so stayed at home & did Beastmaker max hangs instead
T: Sick
F: Sick
S: Recovering. Boulderwelt with M jnr & friend: successfully restricted myself to a coaching role and resisted the temptation to pull on.
S: Flashh bouldering wall, Hamburg. On a business trip, took the opportunity to check out one of the local bouldering walls. Unimpressed with the wall in general - certainly not a contender with Highball in Norwich for best unexpectedly great bouldering wall in a city miles from any climbing - but at least they had a moonboard. A humbling and eye-opening experience. I clearly need to stop farting about on vertical techy nonsense and spend more time doing basic stuff on steep boards.
Otoh I held a +25kg hang for 8 seconds on the medium rung on their beastmaker, which I certainly couldn't on my beastmaker at home #frictionisaid
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Forgive me father as it is 11 weeks since last posting and I've actually not climbed or trained for that time. However, over the last two days I did some pulls ups and press ups and am feeling like I have some energy so hopefully I might climb again soon.
I've spent the last 11 weeks on the most mental energy low and allergy thing (sneezing, runny nose and eczema on my face). Some days I couldn't get out of bed and generally had huge bouts of lethargy and tiredness. I had blood tests, various doctors appointments, been signed off work and have chest and abdominal x rays next week.
The long and short of it is that I am iron, vit b12 deficient and allergic to loads of things - cows whey being a major one - and have been on a cocktail of supplements and slightly different diet. I'm still not 100% sure what is causing the stuff on my face. The last few days I am starting to feel better. Oh and my partner had our 2nd child a week ago too.
Hopefully I'll get back on the fingerboard this coming week and out bouldering before the end of the year. Watch this space...
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Goal: Font 7anything by arrival of TTT Jnr. mk II
M: Nowt.
T: Testing out new lunchtime routine now I'm working futher from gym. Managed to change at work, run to gym, do HIIT class, run back, shower all within an hour. Might be able to make that work a couple of times a week.
W: Depot eve. Good session, but always is when the crimpy wood circuit gets a reset - though had to stop more due to skin than body.
T: Nowt. Visiting relatives from USA so had a midweek family roast dinner!
F: Nowt.
S: Wedding where venue was all but next door to Earl, and reception all but next door to Crookrise. A touch frustrating but was a nice day.
S: Planned to experiment with an outdoor session with Una in tow but combination of factors (mainly being in midst of potty training) meant I shelved it in favour of a trip to The Lab in Leeds instead. In retrospect a good shout as it threw it down with rain on the way there. She really enjoyed it, climbed more than she has before and then (sorry to anyone who was party to this but I'm taking as a good sign!) threw a massive strop when I said we needed to leave.
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Forgive me father as it is 11 weeks since last posting and I've actually not climbed or trained for that time...
Hopefully you're over the worse and congratulations on your second child :beer2:
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M:
T: Cliff avec lamps. Had a date to try Slopey Traverse 7C but arrived early so tried out some new, revolutionary, beta on Keelhaul 8A and can now link from the crack to the lip. Before this point I wasn't officially "working" it but rather just having a look to see if it was actually possible. It may be a goer after all. Fell off the last hard move on ST a number of times, slopers felt worse than last time.
W:
T: Indoors. Brief play on the 50. Long PE session on roofs, felt like a sack of potatoes.
F:
S: Club trip to Peak. Managed Old King Cascade 7B and Suavito 7B. Both pretty good problems. It seems the Peak does have the odd decent problem lying around, though it's a shame they're so spread out ;)
S: Stanage for the 3rd Annual Hangover Session on Brad Pit. Didn't feel great but I can now consistently stick the LH, could hold it fine but couldn't move on it. Rain stopped play. At this rate I think Stanage 2018 will be the one!
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S: Stanage for the 3rd Annual Hangover Session on Brad Pit. Didn't feel great but I can now consistently stick the LH, could hold it fine but couldn't move on it. Rain stopped play. At this rate I think Stanage 2018 will be the one!
Should have had more meanie, that'd have got you up it!
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Mon. Board did a mirror session first this year 41 problems. Bike 74.87 miles 4 hrs 36 mins went further than planned battered.
Tue. Work
Wed. Work.
Thu. Bike 27.30 miles 1 hr 36 mins intervals.
Fri. Ash head crags wet forecast was to gradually improve. So given that and the wind plus every where else was wet, so chanced it. But it rained, found a wall to play on and another bit in a cave. So did some climbing.
Sat. 30 problems to warm up then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off times 5 5 sets with 36.5lbs added.
Sun. Set of to to do about 3 hours got pissed on in first half miles. So did some. Intervals and came home. 1 hr 2 mins 16.63 miles.
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Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June
Body Audit: Shoulder ok, knee ok but still there in the background, finger just about there.
M: Out for dinner, too much booze, not enough sleep, predictably.
T: Finally caught up a bit of sleep (~9hrs)
W: TCA eve, finally had a decent session - who'd have thought sleeping more than 5 hrs would help?? Finished off the black 7B+ on the mothership fairly easily, bit of progress on the green "7B", but still running out of beans for the finish. then 5hrs sleep - FUCKS SAKE!
T: Rockstar (swindon wall) at lunch, just a bimble really, but a few things in the mid 6's. Slightly better sleep, still prob less than 7hrs though.
F: Nothing, feeling much better, but prob due to good life stuff rather than any sleep improvement. Eve, drive up to Staffs, sleep I guess 6-7hrs
S: Churnet, Farley Wood. Never been before, had a great time - Encore en Fois (7A), Machinehead (7A) (flash), Propellerhead (7A) (flash), Google Earth (7A+), did all moves quick on The Mentalist pretty quick, but big pocket was very painful on my index finger so sacked it. Then over to Valley of Kings, Managed Obelisk (7A) and The Moon is Born (7A) before the midges drove us to the pub. prob ~7hrs sleep.
S: Later than planned start, Gentleman Rock: Jill the Traverse (6C), The Nose (6C), Limp Lizard (crimp way)(7B), High Speed Imp Act (7A), Electrofly (6C+), Martins Mono (7A+), Humpty Dumpty (7A+). Fingers decided there'd been quite enough pocket pulling by then, only token goes on 50p Problem and Crash Damage. Great weekend. ~5hrs sleep.
Good week, but really struggling to get enough sleep since I've gone onto days, no problem dropping off but consistently waking up before 4 and not getting much after that. Anyone tried that 5htp stuff? Couple of folk have reccommended it to me.
68kg :2thumbsup:
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Mon - weights warm up, boxing bag. Brilliant. Aching from Sunday session. Started working on anti-rotation for core tension. Hard.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system, dynamic session. Fucking brilliant. Rings, I's and L-sits, 15" on 15" off x5, brutal. Dumbbell complex, traps.
Thu - boxing bag, climbing class.
Fri - low intensity PE, 30"/30" x5, 1'/1' x5. Improved. Dumbbell complex, trap work.
Sat - dumbbell complex, 30' of boxing bag, extreme.
Sun - bouldering! First time on rock in almost 6 months, very humid, at least I was with good friends. Good day.
Super psyched for boxing, must go back to the weights soon.
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Good week, but really struggling to get enough sleep since I've gone onto days, no problem dropping off but consistently waking up before 4 and not getting much after that. Anyone tried that 5htp stuff? Couple of folk have reccommended it to me.
At least you have an excuse. 6 hours is a good night for me. Melatonin is meant to be good for resetting body clocks. I bought some of that 5 htp stuff, but read about some side effects and took it back. I find getting really really drunk usually resets my body clock quite quickly.
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Oh and my partner had our 2nd child a week ago too.
I'm sure you were at least partially involved. Congratulations, this is not the right place to slip news like this in. Friends just had twins as their first (and probably last!) kids. I think they are in sooo far over their heads.
Roll with it mate, always time for another comeback.
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Wow Duma that sounds like a heck of a weekend. Good work!
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1 hr 36 mins intervals.
Wow, long burns ;D
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Really really really really long time since I've posted on here, but I've got goals I want to get done this winter so need to get back training and Power Club has helped with the motivation in the past..
STG - Regain 7A or at least do a few on the list.
MTG - 7B (3 months)
LTG - 7C
Weight - 73Kg, target 70Kg, 4wks
S - Pull Ups - 76 in 13 minutes, one min on, one min off, AB Ripper X (reps of 15 or 20)
M - Lunchtime Brownstones session, 30mins, mainly Ash Pit Traverse, building up a pump
T - Lunchtime Brownstones session, 30mins, Ash Pit Traverse, evening: 82 Pull ups in 13 mins, one on, one off,
W - Lunchtime Brownstones session, 30mins, Unjust area. Evening: Board session, 25 x Max reach pulls and controlled lower, both arms, 45 mins on big reach, positive hold problems, 50 leg raises
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Pull ups, 89 in 13 mins, 1 on, 1 off
Disappointing end to the week, but it's nice to be doing something after a long time not being focussed - understandable given the third addition to the family in February.
It'll be interesting to see if I can maintain the late night training though, because although it gives the best value it's more difficult to get motivated. Need to do a bit more cardio to drop the weight.
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HIT will help you drop wright more than cardio.
Squats, lunges, press ups, pullups, burpees, Supermen, Jumping Jacks can all be done without weights. In 15 minutes of those done in 2 or 3 sets you can be panting like a dog, getting a stronger corea dn never leave the house :)
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+1. Or run at a faster pace for less time, then you can get it over with quicker!
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Hi Rginns,
Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form.
80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.
Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.
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Hi Rich drop me a FB message if you're out in Lancs & want some company... Free most thursdays and fridays...
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HIT will help you drop wright more than cardio.
Squats, lunges, press ups, pullups, burpees, Supermen, Jumping Jacks can all be done without weights. In 15 minutes of those done in 2 or 3 sets you can be panting like a dog, getting a stronger corea dn never leave the house :)
Good shout, I hate running so anything to avoid that is welcome ;D need to do some research on HIIT
Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.
Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.
Hi Rich drop me a FB message if you're out in Lancs & want some company... Free most thursdays and fridays...
Yes Tom! I'll hit you up if I manage to get out, nice one.
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M gym
T gym
W gym
T
F gym AM,
S gym AM; 5mile walk PM
S travel to Sheffield for 24 hour visit.
Decent week. Getting very slightly stronger on some of the weights, but getting irritating sore back, probably from slightly poor form on some (bench or military press I am guessing). More core control needed before upping the weight I reckon. Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...
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Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...
:2thumbsup: I'm up for easy trad when you're back Toby
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Decent week.
Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...
Good to hear Toby :2thumbsup:
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Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...
:2thumbsup: I'm up for easy trad when you're back Toby
That sounds great Guy, hopefully it'll still be warm enough for trad! I managed a few 6bs on top rope yesterday, and easy trad probably inspires me most at the moment, given that my forearms felt like I'd had 4 redpoints on an 8b after those!
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Great news. Probably better to stick to climbing at first though, given the fragility of your skull?
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Time to try some climbing and real cycling soon...
Not real cycling but I have a turbo trainer that I never use, you're welcome to it if you could make use of it.
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S travel to Sheffield for 24 hour visit.
Did I see you walking across the top of Burbage late Sunday afternoon Toby? I assumed it couldn't be you as you were in Devon...
Also up for easy trad. Really enjoying grit trad this autumn.
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Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.
Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.
I wouldn't write it off especially if you are psyched for it and doesnt give your elbows grief. A lot of good climbers have incorporated volume pullup routines as significant part of their training notably Dmitry Sharafutdinov (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19216.msg343400.html#msg343400)
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Agreed, and nothing wrong with using for a few weeks as a high-volume base phase before going on to lower reps with added weight.
You could try doing half the sets with a narrow (shoulder width) grip and then got to 1.5x or 2x sh width which will feel harder, making sure you have good form at all times; long neck, trying to put your shoulders in back pockets.
Then after 3/4 weeks or 10/12 sessions go to sets of 3-5 reps with added weight.
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Cheers chaps. I should always caveat my advice to say -"I am no expert!" :)
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Great news. Probably better to stick to climbing at first though, given the fragility of your skull?
I asked my consultant about cycling specifically, given that I will be wearing a helmet anyway, be said that the increased risk would be minimal. I'm far more vulnerable to a puncture type injury eg from something falling on my head.
Not real cycling but I have a turbo trainer that I never use, you're welcome to it if you could make use of it.
Cheers Ian, I'll take you up on that if I may,what sort/ model is it?
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Trax?
I was given it. Set it up once but have never used it beyond that and have now sold my road bike, it's just spent a couple of years being in the way. Pretty sure it's in working order.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/1459ea964816efe2ddb6a8aa61c0b961.jpg)
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
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72.4kg
STG: Climb, deadlift, lose a little weight
MTG: Advanced Training at Beginner's, 225 kg deadlift, 70kg
LTG: 8B, 240 kg DL, travel to the moon...
M: manflu, work
T: manflu, Session on advanced training at Beginner's with murph - short session as tired + poor skin but worked a decent sequence and did all moves - murph needs to get over building the broadest based grade pyramid on lime and do more hard probs!
W: manflu, work
T: manflu, BM2k open crimp small crimp max hangs up to +35kg x 4s
Deadlifts - not sparking; tired, fuck knows how I lifted heavy last week - failed to get 225 off 1" blocks, 230 off 4" blocks 3 times..
Wide stance squats - 4 sets of 100s
F: manflu, work+++
S: manflu, BM2k open crimp small crimp max hangs up to +35 x 7s
S: manflu, Awesome walls - 1hr probs up to V7, finally did the blue prob in the cave after ditching Colin's shite beta and going basic. 30 min moonboard - weak.
Campus board medley; ladders, drop downs, staggered pull-ups..
Ring dips 3x3
Work +++
Pretty run down
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Pretty run down
:blink:
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Trax?
I was given it. Set it up once but have never used it beyond that and have now sold my road bike, it's just spent a couple of years being in the way.
Looks good! I'll definitely relieve you of that if it's in your way! I'll be in touch with you when I am next up there - hopefully soon!
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murph needs to get over building the broadest based grade pyramid on lime and do more hard probs!
I think you have convinced me. After the current 7 that I'm working on, my 25th, the next thing will be an 8. Plenty of time to backfill later in life. :thumbsup:
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Hey,
It's been a while since I've posted. But question for you all.
Came back from a great magic wood trip 3 weeks ago, almost ticked my first 7C. Had 2 indoor sessions the week after before 2 weeks completely off on holiday in Iceland.
Before I could do a 1 armer on my right arm comfortably and just about on my left, 13579 was easy, 146 also. Now... I can barely do a right arm one armer and can barely start a left arm one...13579 is a struggle and I can barely do 145.
Is 2 weeks pretty common for a big detraining effect on power?
Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?
I've never been this strong and taken such a long rest before.
Cheers
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Hey,
It's been a while since I've posted. But question for you all.
Came back from a great magic wood trip 3 weeks ago, almost ticked my first 7C. Had 2 indoor sessions the week after before 2 weeks completely off on holiday in Iceland.
Before I could do a 1 armer on my right arm comfortably and just about on my left, 13579 was easy, 146 also. Now... I can barely do a right arm one armer and can barely start a left arm one...13579 is a struggle and I can barely do 145.
Is 2 weeks pretty common for a big detraining effect on power?
Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?
I've never been this strong and taken such a long rest before.
Cheers
In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength
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Thanks, good to know doesn't take too long. Dead hang strength feels OK, just power and lockoff.
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M: lunch: assisted mono, pull ups. eve: rings circuit x5: planks, push ups, dips, top position. Then reverse pull ups, skin the cat, fb on portable board
T: worked till late. Nothing
W: yoga
T: lunch: fb evening: ring circuit. Tired
F: Climbing on nib's board. Not bad despite having headache all day
S: Was supposed to take some rest instead.. Dumbbell complex 5x3: cleans, push press, squat. Single arm plank rows. Then some climbing on the board with friends. Good session
S: Bouldering with friends. Very humid. Feeling surprisingly well.
Good training week. At the end of the week I had sore fingers. For this week I'm planning to give some rest to fingers and forearms and do mostly weights and rings.
Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?
For me this summer was a period of lack of motivation and not much training. In september I started training more consistently feeling terribly weak. After about a month I'm having good sensations again. And strength (or lack thereof :) ) seems to back to where it was in spring. Looking forward to test my shape on rock.
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Thanks, good to know doesn't take too long.
Felt like ages at the time
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According to author Vladimir Issurin, the residual training effect of different qualities is as follows:
Aerobic Endurance: 30 days
Maximum Strength: 30 days
Anaerobic Endurance: 15 days
Power Endurance: 12 days
Maximum Power or Speed: 5 days
from
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/block-periodization-linear-periodization--non-linear-periodization/108438729
So yeah, 2 weeks off power and you'll have seen a decline but with recharged body and psyche it won't take long to come back. Personally I wouldn't rush to get it back, take a few weeks getting your body used to training again rather than attempt to smash all your PBs asap.
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In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength
So how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)
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So yeah, 2 weeks off power
You must be kidding. Who really wants to take two weeks off power training? You'd better just quit climbing once and for all, after two weeks off power training.
If I stay two days off power I start feeling gentle, and in peace with the world, ready to embrace the beauty of climbing outdoors and the pleasure of movement.
Then luckily I get my dose of power training and my life goes back to a rage of angry, testosterone-induced frustration for the perennial search of infinite strength.
It's so beautiful in my mind.
I feel a bit lonely though at times.
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In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength
So how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)
Could be as long as four weeks.
You'll bounce back like Jerry after his two years off from injury and an operation. Book your Spring ticket to the Bout du Monde now for extra motivation
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I feel a bit lonely though at times.
Manly hug :hug:
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:-*
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Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.
Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.
I wouldn't write it off especially if you are psyched for it and doesnt give your elbows grief. A lot of good climbers have incorporated volume pullup routines as significant part of their training notably Dmitry Sharafutdinov (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19216.msg343400.html#msg343400)
To Shark, Nai, Dolly, Murph,
Thanks all for the advice - elbows are pretty good generally, and I'm looking to get a good level of base fitness.
I do think form is important though, so need to keep an eye on this. It's only a small part of a bigger picture of general climbing that is more important anyway.
That Dmitry sounds nuts! Although it seems other climbers do a similar thing - Michaela Tracy in jamCrack Podcast 005 discusses it too. Interesting!
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In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength
So how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)
Could be as long as four weeks.
You'll bounce back like Jerry after his two years off from injury and an operation. Book your Spring ticket to the Bout du Monde now for extra motivation
I'd love to think so, cheers for the positive response though, I need more of that.
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I ended up with 8 months off with my leg-break and although it felt like an eternity at the time, it wasn't, and I don't recall climbing performance being poor on-return as being soul crushing; I was simply happy to be climbing again. Hang in there!
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I'd love to think so, cheers for the positive response though, I need more of that.
Drawing from my experience with the burnt hand last Spring then I imagine you will probably be feeling quite vulnerable and fragile at the moment which is natural following a traumatic experience. Also people saying you will come back as strong or stronger will ring hollow. When I started again it took me three sessions to redpoint Sardine which before I could do from cold as a warm up. By the end of the Summer I was at a different level on the Oak. It may work differently for you but I would bet Dave's money that it doesn't.
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With respect to Dmitri and other world-class crushers doing tons of pull-ups, I think it's crucial to take into account that volume is always depending on intensity and vice versa.
Those who do lots of volume of a certain excercise, are performing it a fraction of their max intensity. A pull-up has different intensities depending on who performs it.
So, I think that Dmitri can do thousands because one single pull-up represents a very very low intensity effort for him. Probably he can do more pull-ups than most people can walk.
For a normal person a single pull-up is almost extreme, while for climbers is quite common, but it still represents a good fraction of their max potential.
So, if one of us mortals would like to get lots of pull-ups volume in, I think we should do assisted pull-ups or use a lat machine.
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I'd love to think so, cheers for the positive response though, I need more of that.
Also people saying you will come back as strong or stronger will ring hollow. When I started again it took me three sessions to redpoint Sardine which before I could do from cold as a warm up. By the end of the Summer I was at a different level on the Oak. It may work differently for you but I would bet Dave's money that it doesn't.
Since I rolled the van in April, climbing has been a non event due to whiplash and a host of other issues but I've stuck to the physio, kept my fingers as strong as I can but as for coming back stronger? Not a chance.
However, I tied on this last week and was chuffed to flash a 6a. It felt like a proper YYFY as there was so much shit going on in my head and it would have been dead easy to be down about the session.
Take the climbing as it comes Toby and rejoice in whatever victories it presents. You'll catch up eventually. I gotta say I'm super impressed by how positive you've been.
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[probably be feeling quite vulnerable and fragile at the moment which is natural following a traumatic experience.
No kidding! I broke my wrist in the fall as well and had to have it operated on; I've barely thought about it. It's bloody terrifying having a chunk missing from your skull, and an area of brain with only some skin over it. (And a bit of dura etc if you're pedantic). I do appreciate the empathy though. The gym felt like hard work today,its a great distraction even if most of it has little relevance to climbing.
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[probably be feeling quite vulnerable and fragile at the moment which is natural following a traumatic experience.
. I do appreciate the empathy though.
Sorry. I didn't mean to imply that my injury was comparable to yours