Quote from: Murph on October 10, 2016, 07:52:06 pmUnsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals. Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.
Unsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals.
Great news. Probably better to stick to climbing at first though, given the fragility of your skull?
Not real cycling but I have a turbo trainer that I never use, you're welcome to it if you could make use of it.
Pretty run down
Trax?I was given it. Set it up once but have never used it beyond that and have now sold my road bike, it's just spent a couple of years being in the way.
murph needs to get over building the broadest based grade pyramid on lime and do more hard probs!
Hey, It's been a while since I've posted. But question for you all.Came back from a great magic wood trip 3 weeks ago, almost ticked my first 7C. Had 2 indoor sessions the week after before 2 weeks completely off on holiday in Iceland.Before I could do a 1 armer on my right arm comfortably and just about on my left, 13579 was easy, 146 also. Now... I can barely do a right arm one armer and can barely start a left arm one...13579 is a struggle and I can barely do 145.Is 2 weeks pretty common for a big detraining effect on power? Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back? I've never been this strong and taken such a long rest before. Cheers
Any estimates on how long it normally takes to come back?
Thanks, good to know doesn't take too long.
According to author Vladimir Issurin, the residual training effect of different qualities is as follows: Aerobic Endurance: 30 days Maximum Strength: 30 days Anaerobic Endurance: 15 days Power Endurance: 12 days Maximum Power or Speed: 5 days
In 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strength
So yeah, 2 weeks off power
Quote from: shark on October 12, 2016, 01:59:27 pmIn 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strengthSo how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)
I feel a bit lonely though at times.
Quote from: rginns on October 11, 2016, 12:10:14 amQuote from: Murph on October 10, 2016, 07:52:06 pmUnsolicited advice but that sounds like an awful lot of pull ups if your goals are bouldering in the 7s. Have you considered doing just three sets of 6-10 pull ups concentrating on the absolute best form as possible. If and when you can do ten really good ones then progress to weighted hangs also concentrating on keeping the form. 80-90 pull ups in a quarter of an hour sounds a bit like you risk doing really shit ones with limited training impact.Grateful if others have a view on this, as I have similar performance goals. Yeah, no worries, grateful for any advice, just back into training really and I just want to make some easy gains, and a pull up routine gives a good beasting.But you have a point, it's probably not the best way to recruit power. I should maybe lower the reps and increase the intensity to make quicker gains. It's only supplementary really, but I could be doing it better I dare say.I wouldn't write it off especially if you are psyched for it and doesnt give your elbows grief. A lot of good climbers have incorporated volume pullup routines as significant part of their training notably Dmitry Sharafutdinov
Quote from: TobyD on October 12, 2016, 02:56:32 pmQuote from: shark on October 12, 2016, 01:59:27 pmIn 2012 I came back from a good sport climbing trip and took 10 days off in the Autumn and couldn't believe how rubbish I was to begin with - deadhang strength was shocking. It took three weeks to get back to pre-trip strengthSo how long do you reckon it will take after 3.5 months off?! ;-)Could be as long as four weeks.You'll bounce back like Jerry after his two years off from injury and an operation. Book your Spring ticket to the Bout du Monde now for extra motivation
I'd love to think so, cheers for the positive response though, I need more of that.