UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on September 12, 2011, 01:23:03 pm
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All details and a couple of videos here: http://peakbouldering.info/crags/155 (http://peakbouldering.info/crags/155)
(http://peakbouldering.info/photos/942.jpg?1315821248)
All credit to the beekeeper for telling me about this spot which he found whilst out running :beer2:.
It's a nice location and has a good collection of quality mid/low sevens plus one 7c+ and scope for odd bits more. Access should be ok as it's on CRoW land, but be super careful crossing walls and read the notes about approach.
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PS. I've heard some other probs have been added to side buttresses but I don't know the details.
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Looks good, how is it for seepage?
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There's not a lot of hill above it so I think it should resist seepage pretty well. That said, the rock below the low break has the same crusty stuff on it that you get at the Cornice so I guess this break must seep heavily in winter. It should be in good nick at present though I reckon
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Cheers, will give it a look asap.
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PS. I've heard some other probs have been added to side buttresses but I don't know the details.
Thanks to Cofe and Ru for pointing me in the direction of Conie a couple of weeks back.. The 7's looked quality and a couple of mats might help for the ones towards the left (landings flat but rough - arranged rocks).
This side buttress Bonjoy mentions (to the right of the main one) was really grubby, but generally good rock typically with larger holds. A bit of work would make it a good warm up area for the main events to the left.
I cleaned a few holds making a couple of straight ups in the 5's on this section but it all needed a good brush - that I didnt have. But I shall lay claims to a FA (hurrah my first until someone pisses on my chips!). Conie Head. A pleasant rising traverse that starts on the left of the most undercut bit in the pic below, come out over the roof and moves up left on good large holds. c. 6A.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2948013/fidho.jpg)
I dont use peakbouldering site, but if someone wants to put this up...??
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It was seeping quite badly from the break down yesterday. The starting hand and footholds of most problems were affected, but everything was still climbable with careful towel use. Really nice holds and moves on good solid rock.
There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too. :shrug:
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Looks like a nice spot. Good work.
Tomtom, I've added your problem: http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3671 (http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3671)
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Conie Musselbrook has to be a contender for the best problem name of the year.
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No Conie Island Freakshow yet?
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There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too. :shrug:
we might have done some and forgotten to brush them off, but I doubt we did a 'significant' number. The problems don't really need them. Plus, it's not like me or dutch to not brush them off after. :shrug:
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Back on topic: I thought these were some of the best low 7's on Peak Lime, which is of course all relative, but the holds and moves are good. Even if the buttress isn't the prettiest on first sight.
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There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too. :shrug:
we might have done some and forgotten to brush them off, but I doubt we did a 'significant' number. The problems don't really need them. Plus, it's not like me or dutch to not brush them off after. :shrug:
They weren't from you. I was with Dutch yesterday. The worst of the tickmarks were on a problem to the left of the remaining wall. Including a four inch tick on a starting foothold.
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Wasn't me, I didn't venture down that end and it looked pretty much un brushed / looked at when I was there...
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Nor I.
Wow, word spreads fast. Next time I go it'll no doubt have a troop of dreadlocked puy jugglers in residence!
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jon's tip off came after the beekeeper and myself went climbing here after he saw it while out running. i did quite a few easier probs up to prob 7a inc that in the pic tomtom. i didn't go back since i thought it was turd, a long walk, and every problem would be some sort of eliminate. for eliminates i thought it would be very good and a good alternative on pleasant summers evenings
an ideal venue for greg or si panton to get hold of and talk it up, were more or less my actual words when we were there
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Nice spot, though I don't think I'll be rushing back either.
Not sure about the eliminate thing, we didn't need to eliminate anything - all the big holds fell off as soon as they were touched.
A few pics:
(http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I0000G7v3CCCBisM/s/860/860/AL-cli-4398.jpg) (http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/image?_bqG=0&_bqH=eJwLcMwPMzL30Q3Ic00vsUzMy4jIyffIN_Mp1k22MrYyNbAyNAACK894l2Bn2.T8vMzUYjUwJ97Rz8W2BMgODXYNivd0sQ0FKTTMMLI0dHIzK7DIV4t3dA6xLU5NLErOAAAtEh6X)
(http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I0000OsKO3pQU_aA/s/860/860/AL-cli-4386.jpg) (http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/image?_bqG=1&_bqH=eJwLcMwPMzL30Q3Ic00vsUzMy4jIyffIN_Mp1k22MrYyNbAyNAACK894l2Bn2.T8vMzUYjUwJ97Rz8W2BMgODXYNivd0sQ0FKTTMMLI0dHIzK7DIV4t3dA6xLU5NLErOAAAtEh6X)
(http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I0000tl0FCfO1k04/s/860/860/AL-cli-4397.jpg) (http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/image?_bqG=2&_bqH=eJwLcMwPMzL30Q3Ic00vsUzMy4jIyffIN_Mp1k22MrYyNbAyNAACK894l2Bn2.T8vMzUYjUwJ97Rz8W2BMgODXYNivd0sQ0FKTTMMLI0dHIzK7DIV4t3dA6xLU5NLErOAAAtEh6X)
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jon's tip off came after the beekeeper and myself went climbing here after he saw it while out running. i did quite a few easier probs up to prob 7a inc that in the pic tomtom. i didn't go back since i thought it was turd, a long walk, and every problem would be some sort of eliminate. for eliminates i thought it would be very good and a good alternative on pleasant summers evenings
an ideal venue for greg or si panton to get hold of and talk it up, were more or less my actual words when we were there
Are you sulking because I wouldn't immediately capitulate to your work related phone whinging yesterday? I think you are. :jab:
Apart from the fact that your apraisal of bouldering venues is routinely worthless, I'm guessing you don't rate any peak bouldering areas seeing as you live next door to it and only climb elsewhere, indoors or abroad.
As to whether it's any good, well it's a matter of taste obviously. I am certain that anyone with 'low' enough standards to enjoy any bouldering on peak lime will find it to be well worth a visit. That's why I bothered to document it after having one session there and enjoying it. I never said it was Bas Cuvier (you probably also think this is log anyay).
As to it being eliminate you were just wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong. All the lines are stand alone and quite distinct, more so than most lime venues infact. One I've described with short and tall beta but that's by the by. Limestone places always seem lineless until you bother to climb on them.
Normally I wouldn't be so forthright with you but it's quite fun so I might do it more often :tease:
:popcorn:
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(http://www.buyhandlesuk.com/Backoffice/Photos/Ball-Centre-Door-Knob.jpg)
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Nice spot, though I don't think I'll be rushing back either.
Not sure about the eliminate thing, we didn't need to eliminate anything - all the big holds fell off as soon as they were touched.
A few pics:
Nice pics JB. Wasn't quite so photogenic when I was there :) I'd say it ranks above esoterica as a crag though..
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It was seeping quite badly from the break down yesterday. The starting hand and footholds of most problems were affected, but everything was still climbable with careful towel use. Really nice holds and moves on good solid rock.
There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too. :shrug:
Is it time to start a Conies Dale conditions thread?
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no i don't think bas cuvier's log!
if people think this is a good venue thats up to them and quite strange. after our session there the beekeeper said shall i tell jon about it if ure not gonna bother developing it and i said yeh he'll climb on owt. most of the holds we cleaned fell off, this may have left better holds. i don't really understand the non-eliminate thing but didn't try any harder stuff as all i saw was big fat orange wedge pinches on every bit of rock. if this venue is a good new venue for people then i'm quite glad i don't climb much over here anymore.
as for the capitulating to my work demands on the phone we're not in china so i like to go to work in the morning knowing i'm coming back in the evening, since i've got coffee to drink indoors
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no i don't think bas cuvier's log!
About 99.8% positive I had a conversation with you at Bas Cuvier rubbishing it in situ? ;)
Good work on the development Bonjoy.
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no i don't think bas cuvier's log!
if people think this is a good venue thats up to them and quite strange. after our session there the beekeeper said shall i tell jon about it if ure not gonna bother developing it and i said yeh he'll climb on owt. most of the holds we cleaned fell off, this may have left better holds. i don't really understand the non-eliminate thing but didn't try any harder stuff as all i saw was big fat orange wedge pinches on every bit of rock. if this venue is a good new venue for people then i'm quite glad i don't climb much over here anymore.
as for the capitulating to my work demands on the phone we're not in china so i like to go to work in the morning knowing i'm coming back in the evening, since i've got coffee to drink indoors
Lee. you are being either harsh or dry & I've miss the point...
we've lumped holds off in times gone by in by the way places that have turned into nice little venues... the sort that relieve the pressures off the honeypots and give peeps some quiet fun....
I fail to see yr issue... yr distain seems too harsh for the intent of the developers.
:-*
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Ye this is coming from the guy who developed Hobson moor :lol: he does crack me up tho
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Come to think of it, have you put up any problems which AREN'T eliminates dense? :lol:
I love big fat orange wedge pinches.
as for the capitulating to my work demands on the phone we're not in china so i like to go to work in the morning knowing i'm coming back in the evening by lunch time, since i've got coffee to drink indoors
:boohoo:
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It was seeping quite badly from the break down yesterday. The starting hand and footholds of most problems were affected, but everything was still climbable with careful towel use. Really nice holds and moves on good solid rock.
There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too. :shrug:
Is it time to start a Conies Dale conditions thread?
On that note, anyone know what its like at the moment?
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Very wet below the break yesterday (almost running water in the center), and some seepage above that. Having said that, virtually every problem (possibly except the 7c+) was climbable with diligent towel use, as long as you didn't mind climbing with spooge covered feet.
I didn't try the 7c+ - what's the sequence on this, does it use that collection of gash brushed slopers?
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Checked this crag out today, ideal conditions. Almost totally dry, shady, cool, nice breeze, lovely stuff.
On pb.info it mentions some project traverse, I assume this has been done since that topo was written, any ideas? I thought it was ok starting up one of the 6bs and finishing up lamprecht, which seemed to be what the line on the topo indicates.
Also did a traverse starting wi the first move of the 7c+ then shuffle left across lamiche into toutts. Felt a bit harder than the other traverse. Conie Ferrino?
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Don't think the trav mentioned as a proj has been done. Not sure we actually ever tried it, just spotted the line. How hard was it?
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Did it second go after sussing out where the hold were in the blank bit - main problem being you can't reach them from the ground to check. Probably 7a+ish. Could call it Conie Whitehouse, since it has the potential to go on longer than you'd like (possibly finishing up conie island elephant...)
The other one felt 7a+/bish, hard to say.
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Hi folks just wanted to bring to your attention that the farmers have been having some problems with walls being knocked over on the walk in to conies.
We went there yesterday to avoid the crowds and as we were walking along the crag side of the wall a young farm lad hurled abuse at us under the mistaken impression that we had crossed a wall without using a stile. I managed to calm him down ask what the problems had been and he replied using many vulgarities that people 'Like us' (I assume he meant people carrying pads) have been crossing the walls and knocking them over.
He explained that it's ok to cross the first field using the stile which is half way up the wall on the far side, then through the fence at the top of the hill in the second field before crossing at a stile which is in the bottom right hand corner of the third field as you approach it before walking along into the little valley.
He was very very upset by our presence as apparently they have had a lot of sheep escaping through these walls onto the crag side which they don't own.
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I've only been the once, but to cross the wall by the crag, there was no obvious style that I could see. Also parts of that wall only needed to be breathed on before collapsing, not that this is anyway an excuse
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Also only been the once, but again found no obvious way over the wall by the crag. When I went the approach valley also looked a little like the sheep version of an elephant graveyard (avoidance of paying for removal of fallen stock?).
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Highrepute put this on the other thread, not yet sure if its the correct approach but thought it should be here too:
Is this the approach you describe?
This avoids climbing over any walls without stiles but does include crossing a fence.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7269/13987945403_c5a2d285c7.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/nj4SQt)conies (https://flic.kr/p/nj4SQt) by jamesofhighrepute (https://www.flickr.com/people/56789983@N07/), on Flickr
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Went here yesterday. Fun venue for 6s and low 7s, in a different setting to the usual peak lime - feels a bit more rural. Some grade adjustments needed - I would suggest:
Yeboah - 6c/+ not 7a
Toutts - 6c/+ not 7a
Simpson - 7a not 7a+
Iommi - 7a+/b not 7b+
Musselbrook (original) - 7a+ not 7b
Whitehouse - 7a not 7b (there are 7b routes way harder than this)
Conie the tiger, conie soprano, mu little conie, and conie jaa : didn't do but logic suggests they will all need a downgrade too given the constituent parts.
Linking Yeboah or Toutts into Lamiche staying below the big jugs is fun, and about 7a+ and 7a respectively
Has anyone done Beak Forest? Is the best way to take the small but ok RH slot, get LF out left and do a big press up to the slot via the poor slopers, or is there better beta?
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You could add your votes to pb? It will automatically adjust grades:
http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/155-conies-dale#.U7qv27FR5aH (http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/155-conies-dale#.U7qv27FR5aH)
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Will do
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:thumbsup:
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Whitehouse - 7a not 7b (there are 7b routes way harder than this)
Don't know where 7b came from, I said 7a+ ish.
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I can claim some responsibility for the gentle gradings here, not that I agree with all of Alex's grades, but I'm probably too generous with my grades.
Whitehouse is the only one that surprises me on that list. I remember finding that one really hard.
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I think Conie's feels soft for a peak limestone crag, but more in line with the grit grades in general. Although I appreciate it is a different style of climbing with different strengths required etc etc
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just want to say that I'm a font 7a climber, I did a font 7a there, and it felt font 7a.
cheers.
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I can claim some responsibility for the gentle gradings here, not that I agree with all of Alex's grades, but I'm probably too generous with my grades.
Whitehouse is the only one that surprises me on that list. I remember finding that one really hard.
I onsited/flashed Whitehouse and I do not flash 7B. I've had to try harder on route 7bs. I thought was 7A at most.
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Also -
I did Toutts into Lamiche without going to the jugs on Toutts, called Conie Hancock.
ps. look at me
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Who cares anyway, we had a nice enough time there.
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I hope your grade outrage didn't ruin your enjoyment of what is a very nice little spot with some fun climbing!
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Did montana into lamiche, can't see this being claimed anywhere? would be surprised if this was a first ascent, but i'll claim it if no one else is ;)
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can only be claimed if you have a good conie pun.
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I named it Big fat Conie :D