UKBouldering.com

[9 new probs at new limestone venue][6b-7c+][Conies Dale] (Read 20296 times)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
All details and a couple of videos here: http://peakbouldering.info/crags/155



All credit to the beekeeper for telling me about this spot which he found whilst out running  :beer2:.

It's a nice location and has a good collection of quality mid/low sevens plus one 7c+ and scope for odd bits more. Access should be ok as it's on CRoW land, but be super careful crossing walls and read the notes about approach.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
PS. I've heard some other probs have been added to side buttresses but I don't know the details.

chris05

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 593
  • Karma: +6/-0
Looks good, how is it for seepage?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
There's not a lot of hill above it so I think it should resist seepage pretty well. That said, the rock below the low break has the same crusty stuff on it that you get at the Cornice so I guess this break must seep heavily in winter. It should be in good nick at present though I reckon

chris05

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 593
  • Karma: +6/-0
Cheers, will give it a look asap.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20294
  • Karma: +643/-11
PS. I've heard some other probs have been added to side buttresses but I don't know the details.

Thanks to Cofe and Ru for pointing me in the direction of Conie a couple of weeks back.. The 7's looked quality and a couple of mats might help for the ones towards the left (landings flat but rough - arranged rocks).

This side buttress Bonjoy mentions (to the right of the main one) was really grubby, but generally good rock typically with larger holds. A bit of work would make it a good warm up area for the main events to the left.

I cleaned a few holds making a couple of straight ups in the 5's on this section but it all needed a good brush - that I didnt have. But I shall lay claims to a FA (hurrah my first until someone pisses on my chips!). Conie Head. A pleasant rising traverse that starts on the left of the most undercut bit in the pic below, come out over the roof and moves up left on good large holds. c. 6A.



I dont use peakbouldering site, but if someone wants to put this up...??

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
It was seeping quite badly from the break down yesterday. The starting hand and footholds of most problems were affected, but everything was still climbable with careful towel use. Really nice holds and moves on good solid rock.

There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too.  :shrug:

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
Looks like a nice spot. Good work.

Tomtom, I've added your problem: http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3671

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
Conie Musselbrook has to be a contender for the best problem name of the year.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29339
  • Karma: +637/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
No Conie Island Freakshow yet?

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too.  :shrug:

we might have done some and forgotten to brush them off, but I doubt we did a 'significant' number. The problems don't really need them. Plus, it's not like me or dutch to not brush them off after. :shrug:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
Back on topic: I thought these were some of the best low 7's on Peak Lime, which is of course all relative, but the holds and moves are good. Even if the buttress isn't the prettiest on first sight.

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too.  :shrug:

we might have done some and forgotten to brush them off, but I doubt we did a 'significant' number. The problems don't really need them. Plus, it's not like me or dutch to not brush them off after. :shrug:

They weren't from you. I was with Dutch yesterday. The worst of the tickmarks were on a problem to the left of the remaining wall. Including a four inch tick on a starting foothold.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20294
  • Karma: +643/-11
Wasn't me, I didn't venture down that end and it looked pretty much un brushed / looked at when I was there...

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
Nor I.
Wow, word spreads fast. Next time I go it'll no doubt have a troop of dreadlocked puy jugglers in residence!

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
jon's tip off came after the beekeeper and myself went climbing here after he saw it while out running. i did quite a few easier probs up to prob 7a inc that in the pic tomtom. i didn't go back since i thought it was turd, a long walk, and every problem would be some sort of eliminate. for eliminates i thought it would be very good and a good alternative on pleasant summers evenings

an ideal venue for greg or si panton to get hold of and talk it up, were more or less my actual words when we were there

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +703/-22
Nice spot, though I don't think I'll be rushing back either.

Not sure about the eliminate thing, we didn't need to eliminate anything - all the big holds fell off as soon as they were touched.

A few pics:






Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
jon's tip off came after the beekeeper and myself went climbing here after he saw it while out running. i did quite a few easier probs up to prob 7a inc that in the pic tomtom. i didn't go back since i thought it was turd, a long walk, and every problem would be some sort of eliminate. for eliminates i thought it would be very good and a good alternative on pleasant summers evenings

an ideal venue for greg or si panton to get hold of and talk it up, were more or less my actual words when we were there
Are you sulking because I wouldn't immediately capitulate to your work related phone whinging yesterday? I think you are.  :jab:
Apart from the fact that your apraisal of bouldering venues is routinely worthless, I'm guessing you don't rate any peak bouldering areas seeing as you live next door to it and only climb elsewhere, indoors or abroad.
As to whether it's any good, well it's a matter of taste obviously. I am certain that anyone with 'low' enough standards to enjoy any bouldering on peak lime will find it to be well worth a visit. That's why I bothered to document it after having one session there and enjoying it. I never said it was Bas Cuvier (you probably also think this is log anyay).
As to it being eliminate you were just wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong. All the lines are stand alone and quite distinct, more so than most lime venues infact. One I've described with short and tall beta but that's by the by. Limestone places always seem lineless until you bother to climb on them.
Normally I wouldn't be so forthright with you but it's quite fun so I might do it more often  :tease:

 :popcorn:

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20294
  • Karma: +643/-11

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20294
  • Karma: +643/-11
Nice spot, though I don't think I'll be rushing back either.

Not sure about the eliminate thing, we didn't need to eliminate anything - all the big holds fell off as soon as they were touched.

A few pics:

Nice pics JB. Wasn't quite so photogenic when I was there :) I'd say it ranks above esoterica as a crag though..

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
It was seeping quite badly from the break down yesterday. The starting hand and footholds of most problems were affected, but everything was still climbable with careful towel use. Really nice holds and moves on good solid rock.

There were a significant number of tick marks left on problems too.  :shrug:

Is it time to start a Conies Dale conditions thread?

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
no i don't think bas cuvier's log!
if people think this is a good venue thats up to them and quite strange. after our session there the beekeeper said shall i tell jon about it if ure not gonna bother developing it and i said yeh he'll climb on owt. most of the holds we cleaned fell off, this may have left better holds. i don't really understand the non-eliminate thing but didn't try any harder stuff as all i saw was big fat orange wedge pinches on every bit of rock. if this venue is a good new venue for people then i'm quite glad i don't climb much over here anymore.
as for the capitulating to my work demands on the phone we're not in china so i like to go to work in the morning knowing i'm coming back in the evening, since i've got coffee to drink indoors

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
no i don't think bas cuvier's log!

About 99.8% positive I had a conversation with you at Bas Cuvier rubbishing it in situ? ;)

Good work on the development Bonjoy.


fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
no i don't think bas cuvier's log!
if people think this is a good venue thats up to them and quite strange. after our session there the beekeeper said shall i tell jon about it if ure not gonna bother developing it and i said yeh he'll climb on owt. most of the holds we cleaned fell off, this may have left better holds. i don't really understand the non-eliminate thing but didn't try any harder stuff as all i saw was big fat orange wedge pinches on every bit of rock. if this venue is a good new venue for people then i'm quite glad i don't climb much over here anymore.
as for the capitulating to my work demands on the phone we're not in china so i like to go to work in the morning knowing i'm coming back in the evening, since i've got coffee to drink indoors

Lee. you are being either harsh or dry & I've miss the point...

we've lumped holds off in times gone by in by the way places  that have turned into nice little venues... the sort that relieve the pressures off the honeypots and give peeps some quiet fun....

I fail to see yr issue... yr distain seems too harsh for the intent of the developers.

 :-*

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
Ye this is coming from the guy who developed Hobson moor  :lol: he does crack me up tho

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal