UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Pantontino on October 14, 2008, 02:37:18 pm
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Reading that 8a.nu list thread got me thinking. About 4 years ago I did a top 50 British problems poster for Climber mag. It did include one Irish problem (because it is amazing) and several Scottish problems that I took on recs from others but had never seen at the time myself. I felt like there were some problems I had to put in, but also wanted to make people think about striking out to pastures new so I did throw in a few wild cards.
Anybody care to offer some alternatives and (of course) rubbish my annoying Welsh bias (Who, me?) and crap choices - let me have it! :spank:
V1/Font 5
The Hoop-la (Frodsham - Cheshire)
The Blobs (Loch Sloy - Scotland)
V2/Font 5+
The Ramp (Braichmelyn Boulder – North Wales)
West’s Route (Wimberry – Peak District)
V3/Font 6a/+
Classic Arete (Shaftoe - Northumberland)
Pick Pocket Crack (Widdop - Yorkshire)
Flying Arete (Almscliff - Yorkshire)
Jumping Jack Flash (Goldsborough Carr - Yorkshire)
V4/Font 6b/+
Not To Be Taken Away (Stanage – Peak District)
The Crack (Bowderstone - Lakes)
Boysen’s Groove (Wavelength - North Wales)
The States Traverse (Garheugh Port - Scotland)
V5/Font 6c/+
Caseg Groove (Caseg Boulder - North Wales)
Horror Arete (Bridestones - Yorkshire)
Event Horizon (Sampson’s Stones - Lakes)
The Chieftan (Coire Lagan - Scotland)
V6/Font 7a
Desert Island Arete (Earl Crag - Yorkshire)
King of Drunks (Wavelength - North Wales)
Solidarity (Glenmacnass - Ireland)
The Wave (Bonehill – Devon)
V7/Font 7a+
Red Baron (Shipley - Yorkshire)
Tierdrop (Ramshaw – Peak District)
Mallory Crack (Mallory Boulder - North Wales)
Catalepsy (Pex Hill - Cheshire)
V8/Font 7b
Fight on Black (Widdop - Yorkshire)
Willy 2 Goes (Wavelength - North Wales)
Sloping Beauty (Earl Crag - Yorkshire)
Brutal Arete (Stanton Moor – Peak District)
V8/Font 7b+
The Yorkshireman (Kyloe in the Woods - Northumberland)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees – Lakes)
West Side Story (Burbage West – Peak District)
The Waveband (Portland - Dorset)
V9/Font 7c
Precious (Glen Croe - Scotland)
Jerry’s Roof (Cromlech Boulders - North Wales)
Scoop de Grace (Running Hill Pits – Peak District)
V10/Font 7c+
Return of the Fly (Thorn Crag - Lancashire)
Heaven in Your Hands (Brandrith - Yorkshire)
News in Gaelic (Glen Nevis - Scotland)
V11/Font 8a
Careless Torque (Stanage – Peak District)
The Crack (Bowden Doors - Northumberland)
Jason’s Roof (Crookrise - Yorkshire)
V12/Font 8a+
Pool of Bethesda (Cromlech Boulders - North Wales)
Inertia Reel Traverse (Roaches Lower Tier – Peak District)
Sabotage (Dumbarton - Scotland)
V13/Font 8b
The Ace (Stanage – Peak District)
High Fidelity (Caley - Yorkshire)
Cypher (Slipstones - Yorkshire)
V14/Font 8b+
Monk’s Life (Kyloe in the Woods - Northumberland)
Pilgrimage (Parisella’s Cave – North Wales)
V15/Font 8c
Walk Away sitting start (Fairy Steps - Lancashire)
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Think the Waveband has mostly fallen down now...
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Do you have to have done them to nominate them?
I think Malc's Arete (V6 Richie?) at Torridon must go in (I've done 2/3 of it).
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At V2 how's about The Ramp at Bridestones?
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I still can't believe Fight on Black is only 7b :lol:
Malc's Arete at 7a is an option, great line on lovely Torridonian rock.
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I can think of one I'd take out! The Ramp on the Braichmelyn boulder is no way a top 50 boulder problem. Ok moves but not a great visual line and the holds are quite sharp and nasty!
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Is Scoop De Grace really the best 7c in the Peak? It looks good, but I haven’t tried it so don’t know. Remarkably unpopular if it is the best. Must go over and try it this winter. My personal favourite Peak 7c is My Buddy the Apple.
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Do you have to have done them to nominate them?
Absolutely not, or else my original list would have been considerably shorter!
Malc's Arete looks amazing - I'm hoping I might get the chance to check this out at half term (I'm going on a family holiday to Scotland).
On the Scottish tip I'd like to put forward that Maizie Gunn's thing on the Heather Top Boulder in Glen Nevis - that is classic! (V4/5?)
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Is Scoop De Grace really the best 7c in the Peak? It looks good, but I haven’t tried it so don’t know. Remarkably unpopular if it is the best. Must go over and try it this winter. My personal favourite Peak 7c is My Buddy the Apple.
Maybe SDG is not the best 7c. I did flail around on it (in awe of Dougie Hall's crimping strength) many times whilst up doing routes in the quarries. I guess the choice was part objective, part a romantic return to my youth.
My Buddy the Apple could be a candidate now (although it didn't exist when I did the original list).
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I can think of one I'd take out! The Ramp on the Braichmelyn boulder is no way a top 50 boulder problem. Ok moves but not a great visual line and the holds are quite sharp and nasty!
Oh contraire! A great line, interesting, technical moves and a slightly wiggy top out. A classic sir, a classic it is!
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At V2 how's about The Ramp at Bridestones?
Is this the thing that Charlotte Rampling climbs into?
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On a complete tangent, have you run out of ideas for places to do Stone Circles? Just wondered with the most recent one I saw being for a climbing wall. I can think of a few good ones I don't think you've done yet.
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On a complete tangent, have you run out of ideas for places to do Stone Circles? Just wondered with the most recent one I saw being for a climbing wall. I can think of a few good ones I don't think you've done yet.
Not at all, got plenty lined up (although I'm all ears for new suggestions). We only did the Works because we kept getting shut down by rain. It seemed an apt choice given the weather situation this summer.
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The Ramp at Braichmelyn is an immense problem, agreed Simon.
I'd anticipate Flashpoint will make the updated list?
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I'd anticipate Flashpoint will make the updated list?
Damn right it would!
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...or maybe this:
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/tips/Sea%20View%20Prowess%201%20cropped%20280.jpg)
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Also a fine call.
I love that photo with the intricate wave-cut platform action.
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Do you have to have done them to nominate them?
Absolutely not, or else my original list would have been considerably shorter!
Malc's Arete looks amazing - I'm hoping I might get the chance to check this out at half term (I'm going on a family holiday to Scotland).
Good work! Get in touch with Richie Betts, he is the man with the finger on the pulse of developments. There is a lot more at Torridon than just the Ship Boulder.
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Braichmelyn V2 ftw. (althoguh I didn't finish it off, knackered!) Tricky sequence, small holds, good line, nice atmosphere, shame about the midges.
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Do you have to have done them to nominate them?
Absolutely not, or else my original list would have been considerably shorter!
Malc's Arete looks amazing - I'm hoping I might get the chance to check this out at half term (I'm going on a family holiday to Scotland).
Good work! Get in touch with Richie Betts, he is the man with the finger on the pulse of developments. There is a lot more at Torridon than just the Ship Boulder.
I know Richie - he's an Ormes local after all. He speaks very highly of the Torridon stuff.
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I know you know him. He does right to speak highly, hopefully it's not to boggy yet, pack wellies.
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Someone's gotta represent the South West here....
Sure The Wave at Bonehill is on the original list and a local test piece but I reckon there are some better/more classic lines to be had elsewhere on the granite.
These 3 come to mind immediately.
Rowes Arete - Black Hill V5
Hanging Flakes - Combeshead Tor V4
Hung Like A Chimp - Raven's Lustleigh Cleave V6
An honorable mention should go to
Boomerang - Clodgy Point V7
Rumour has it there's some classic problems to be had on the Exmoor coast too. Though that could just be a rumour :whistle:
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Someone's gotta represent the South West here....
Hung Like A Chimp - Raven's Lustleigh Cleave V6
This has to go in just for the crag name!
Rumour has it there's some classic problems to be had on the Exmoor coast too. Though that could just be a rumour :whistle:
Come on Granticus, don't go teasing, give it to me straight - you got classics, I want to know!
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solidarity. my god that is a good boulder problem. brought back some happy memories.
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Someone's gotta represent the South West here....
What? You mean the South West is included in this? From the look of that list I couldn't tell… I thought we were being left out as punishment for that time Suspension Flake was declared the best V.S. in the world ever.
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This has to go in just for the crag name!
Sorry my bad... Should read
Raven's Tor - Lustleigh Cleave.. Probably not as exciting now is it?
Come on Granticus, don't go teasing, give it to me straight - you got classics, I want to know!
Fair enough. IMO We got classics....... there is a subtle hint from Mr Crocker in the front cover of the new(ish) Cheddar and Avon Guide.
I would suggest as classic lines.....
Anarchy Arete at around V3/4 (highball or E3 in old money) near Lynmouth.
Tutan Come On V3 Giza area near Lynmouth.
For starters... :shrug:
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L'angle Shropfait needs to go on there too. One of the best problems in the country.
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At V2 how's about The Ramp at Bridestones?
Is this the thing that Charlotte Rampling climbs into?
'Tis indeed. A brilliant little V2.
Charlotte itself if a fantastic V5, a superb example of Gritstone 'Knack', easy when you know how, deperate when you don't. Typical Kebs...
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Andy, you obviously haven't been recently. The feet are now enormous eroded sandy holes making it into a shitty, sandy, static V3. Real shame.
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You're right, it's been a while and it does sound llike a real shame that a UK classic is reduced to the status of a southern softstone shithole :(
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Carn Brea arete?
Anything on Bosigarn lower tier?
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Can you do multiple polls in a single post on this BB?
If so you could put up 8-10 for each grade and then have a vote??
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Death Jug Mantle at Smallcombe "V1" class.
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L'angle Shropfait needs to go on there too. One of the best problems in the country.
Thats not hard, this can't go on the list as its got one of the dirtiest, sharpest crimps I've ever pulled on
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the ramp, aka lager lager lager at earl has to be on that list
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Ok then - bad choices:
Pick pocket crack - not that great.
Not to be taken away - not at all great.
Sloping beauty - good, but quite far down the list of earl crag classics (Andy Brown's Wall, Lager..., Underworld, Desert Island arete). Plus, the good move is eliminate.
Pilgrimmage - not a boulder problem.
Problems that should be on there:
Crescent Arete - best problem in the peak?
Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems. The square is also great at V2.
Suavito - second best problem in the peak.
Andronicus
Voyager ss
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the rock on voyager is 'orrible.
Horror arete at kebs is tres bon.
banana republic ss at caley is a mighty good looking problem (not tried it tho)
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the rock on voyager is 'orrible.
That's a shame. It looks so good.
Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.
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ditto the voyager rock comment. suavito is good but marred by the landing. andronicus is in a dank pissfilled pr0no cave. pilgrimage IS a boulder problem. DIA is great but there are much much better 7as around.
hows about shit like:
dawn raider 7c
yorkshireman sitter 7c+
secret seventh 7b+
eatswood traverse 7c
thundering apoplexy 7b
art of white hat wearing 7b
seans arete 7b
face on the andle stone 7b
high speed imp act 7a+
Ping Pong Rib Arete 7a+
Mr Whippy 7a+
brads arete 7a/+ whatever
English Voodoo 7a
stall 7a
problem with lists like this is we tend to be over diplomatic and feel the need to select problems from a representative selection of crags, when thats no necessarily where the best shit is.
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Simon. How could you miss Porth Ysgo? Truth SS, Jawbreaker, Ysgo Crack, Incredible Shaking Man SS? And what's that problem on the big block further round. It's not Made In Heaven is it?
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Andronicus is in a cave, but the climbing is incredible. Maybe for some the aspect is an issue.
Sauvito is not marred by the landing. I've seen people take repeated lobs of the top, none of them went anywhere near the scary boulder.
Lots of your grit suggestions are pretty good, but there are so many in the same really-good-but-not-the-best-ever bracket. Which is maybe the thing about grit - most problems are pretty good. There might not be so many wild moves, but the average standard is pretty high, and lots of unlikely bits of rock turn into satisfying experiences.
What about that stuff at Queen's Crag? Worldline and that 8a clampy thing both look fantastic.
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take anything at eatswood off that list.
spare rib at stanton is also tre bon
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Just did a :google: search for Made in Heaven, and found this:
Title: Best problems of their grade
Post by: Pantontino on March 21, 2003, 12:26:09 am
Here's mine (mostly Wales with a couple of Yorkshire, Peak and Northumberland ones thrown in):
V1 Stairway (P Ysgo)/ Supa Dupa Fly (Lower Satellites)
V2 Super Boulder Ramp
V3 Caseg Fraith Arete
V4 Made in Heaven/ Boysen's Groove/Piton Crack(Woodhouse Scar)
V5 Caseg Groove/ Chaos Emerald Crack
V6 King Of Drunks/ Limpet
V7 TISM sd/ Lickety Split
V8 Red Baron/ Willy 2 Goes (Meadow)
V8+ Sonic Boom/ West Side Story
V9 Jerry's Roof
V10 Main Vein
V11 The Crack (Bowden)
V12 Pool Of Bethesda
V13 Cypher
You're relatively consistent at least ;)
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What about that stuff at Queen's Crag? Worldline and that 8a clampy thing both look fantastic.
Queen King. Actually the pics in the new guide make everything in N'umberland looks amazing.
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thundering apoplexy 7b
for the run and jump method or the non run and jump method. does it really get 7b for run an jump?
Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.
it's clearly not
Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.
more of a local problem that a national classic?
should deliverance not be on the list or is it too ruined these days?
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thundering apoplexy 7b
for the run and jump method or the non run and jump method.
the non.
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Queen King. Actually the pics in the new guide make everything in N'umberland looks amazing.
Queen Kong :rtfm: ;)
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Andy, you obviously haven't been recently. The feet are now enormous eroded sandy holes making it into a shitty, sandy, static V3. Real shame.
That's a real shame. I'm not sure I ever want to go to the Bridestones again and tarnish my memories of the place. One of the first places I ever went to in Yorkshire, and where I first met HK Stu. And control freak, for that matter.
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Made in Heaven should definitely have been in there - it's still the best problem at Porth Ysgo imo.
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Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.
it's clearly not
It's clearly not V5. V4 maybe if you are giving an extra grade for height.
Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.
more of a local problem that a national classic?
Have you done it? The moves are great.
http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Common%20Knowledge.wmv (http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Common%20Knowledge.wmv)
should deliverance not be on the list or is it too ruined these days?
Deliverance isn't ruined in any way. It is amazing, but can unfortunately be lankpointed by an inferior move.
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Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.
more of a local problem that a national classic?
Have you done it? The moves are great.
http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Common%20Knowledge.wmv (http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Common%20Knowledge.wmv)
The holds are too sharp for it to be an uber-classic.
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Deliverance...can unfortunately be lankpointed by an inferior move.
Hi r-man, interesting thoughts on the 2 available methods. I was under the impression that it was first done by this 'lankpoint' method back in the day and it was only in the last few years that the new rockover method was envisioned. As this new method is an easier way of doing a classic problem, I wonder is it perhaps a little unfair to deride the original dyno sequence as a 'lankpoint'. I don't think the dyno method is in any way inferior, I wish I could do it this way actually although am thankful for my tick with the apparently 'superior' rockover method ;D.
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Horror Arete is definitely one of the best problems in the land. V3 though.
it's clearly not
It's clearly not V5. V4 maybe if you are giving an extra grade for height.
i don't think v5's unfair, and that what it's been given for years. relatedly, boysens groove's is down as 4 when i thought it benchmark 3? anyway...
Common knowledge (V5) - S.Lancs does have one or two amazing problems.
more of a local problem that a national classic?
Have you done it? The moves are great.
http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Common%20Knowledge.wmv (http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/Common%20Knowledge.wmv)
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did it a few years ago, its pretty good for a lancs quarries problem, but you wouldn't travel from shef/wales specifically for it.
should deliverance not be on the list or is it too ruined these days?
Deliverance isn't ruined in any way. It is amazing, but can unfortunately be lankpointed by an inferior move.
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the smears for the dyno method are a lot better than they used to be, or seemed to be to me anyway. the dyno is one of my favourite moves ever.
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Kingy, I'm aware of how it was originally done. The rockover method is a unique move, whereas dynoing off smears isn't (fun though it may be). I'm not one of the anti dyno brigade, I just think the rockover method is pretty special, and it's a shame this isn't the only way up.
Andi_e, go back and try it again now you're stronger.
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Right, well down at the bumbly end of the list I'd go for Dannys Wall at Loch Buie, Isle of Mull as the best Font 5 I've done in the UK (better than The Blobs anyway, imo).
Rampaging up the grade scale, two very very good Font 6a's were Crucifix Traverse (including undercut start) at Kyloe In and Cortege Crack (6a+?) on Ben Ledi.
I could list quite a few really good Font 6b's to f(l)ail spectacularly on, if thats of assistance? :-[
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Andi_e, go back and try it again now you're stronger.
The holds are still sharp though :'(
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A few more recommendations from Yorkshire (I'm very biased) :whistle:
Syrett's Roof (V6) - Almscliff
Zoo york (V11) - Caley
Banana Republic (V11) - Caley
Maurice Chevellier (V2/3) - Caley
Terry (V9) - Caley
Heaven in Your hands (V10) - Brandith
Vim - (V3)Shipley
Millstone Grit (V8) - Shipley
Big Kicks (V9ish)- Lord's Seat
Fluide - (V9)Brimham Outlying
Boris or Bust (V5ish) - Brimham Outlying
Barry Kingsize (V7)- Crookrise
Rhythm (V12) - Flasby Fell
Curious Yellow (V11) - Ilkley
McNab (V8) - Lord's Seat
Cocoa Team Special (V9) - Rhylstone
Hunter's Roof -(V9) Hunter's Stones
That's just the tip of the massive ice berg ;)
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Kingy, I'm aware of how it was originally done. The rockover method is a unique move, whereas dynoing off smears isn't (fun though it may be).
i fail to see how rocking onto a smear is any more unique that jumping off some lower smears.
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No McNab tom?
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oh cocktits
McNab (V8) - Lord's Seat
No McNab tom?
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A few more recommendations from Yorkshire (I'm very biased) :whistle:
Syrett's Roof (V6) - Almscliff
Zoo york (V11) - Caley
Banana Republic (V11) - Caley
Maurice Chevellier (V2/3) - Caley
Terry (V9) - Caley
Heaven in Your hands (V10) - Brandith
Vim - (V3)Shipley
Millstone Grit (V8) - Shipley
Big Kicks (V9ish)- Lord's Seat
Fluide - (V9)Brimham Outlying
Boris or Bust (V5ish) - Brimham Outlying
Barry Kingsize (V7)- Crookrise
Rhythm (V12) - Flasby Fell
Curious Yellow (V11) - Ilkley
McNab (V8) - Lord's Seat
Cocoa Team Special (V9) - Rhylstone
Hunter's Roof -(V9) Hunter's Stones
That's just the tip of the massive ice berg ;)
Good list Tom, some very strong candidates there, however I have to be a pedantic git and point out that Heaven in Your hands was in the original list (not that I've done it or anything).
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did vim today, its very good. red baron is excellent also.
I don't think curious yellow or hunter roof should be on the list
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Solidarity is a gem. Some day!
The only other Irish suggestion I'd make would be Darkness Before the Dawn in Glendasan. Proper awe-inspiring!
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At the easy end of the scale I've always found Elephants Ear at Baldstones to be pleasant.
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Rons Slab at Earl (i've only just done it)
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At the easy end of the scale I've always found Elephants Ear at Baldstones to be pleasant.
Good call.
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V1 - Leaving the car
V2 - Walk in
V3 - Split traverse
V4 - Beaver RH
V5 - Right wall Traverse
V6 - Pillar Start
V7 - Beaver Cleaver
V8 - Clever Beaver
V9 - Rockatrocity
V10 - wobbly block start/Lou Ferrino
Classic circuit ;)
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On a complete tangent, have you run out of ideas for places to do Stone Circles? Just wondered with the most recent one I saw being for a climbing wall. I can think of a few good ones I don't think you've done yet.
Yeah, I suggested a Nidderdale tour once, but to no avail. Could've done with some traffic to keep the moss at bay. Never mind, it's probably best to keep all the sketchy footwork pebble snappers indoors.
I know that folk don't try/do it often for logistical reasons, but Pistol whip at the cliff is one of the best grit highballs going. Like wss in quality. I know two fellas off here who might agree?
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Pistol whip at the cliff is one of the best grit highballs going
I hear dat!!! Forgot about that one, very very good.
Also, how could we forget Jess's Roof at the cliff :-\
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Queen King. Actually the pics in the new guide make everything in N'umberland looks amazing.
Queen Kong :rtfm: ;)
STFU. What I meant to type, but I have congenitally stubby fingers.
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Chariots of Fire at Ilkley is fun in the upside down clamping vein.
Si's arete is good in the arete clamping style.
The terrace is good fun in the downgraded clamping style.
Gonna have another attempt at clamping along Low Ryder, which is awesome.
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Rons Slab at Earl (i've only just done it)
You mean Ron's Arete. Unless you've been back to Earl since sunday. Whatever though, Ron's Arete is ace.
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On consideration here is a totally Devoncentric list of top quality shire problems.
V1 – Hanging Groove- Combeshead Tor
V2 – F.E.A.R. – Lynmouth West
V3 – Most Acceptable Arete – Lynmouth East
V4- Hanging Flakes – Combeshead Tor
Rippled Wall – Bonehill
V5- Proof of Concept – Combeshead Tor
Rowe’s Arete – Black Hill
V6 – The Wave – Bonehill
-Hung Like a Chimp – Raven’s Rocks – Lustleigh Cleave
V7 – Dancing Queen – Saddle Tor
No More Nails - Lynmouth East
V8 – Carnage – Hartland Quay
The Left Arete of the Scoop – Bonehill
Super Trooper - Saddle Tor
V9/10? – Ache Ball – Hartland Quay
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Rons Slab at Earl (i've only just done it)
You mean Ron's Arete. Unless you've been back to Earl since sunday. Whatever though, Ron's Arete is ace.
is this the arete left of john dunne slab and then the slab to the left of that?
Was going to atempt these last time I was there but it was raining and was too busy watching saltbeef get shut down on a 6b+
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I know a great way to rate the best uk problem...
Its a system that is sim..................
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is this the arete left of john dunne slab and then the slab to the left of that?
Yes. I was afforded the perfect excuse for not doing the arete when I had an Onyx failure... :-\
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I know a great way to rate the best uk problem...
Its a system that is sim..................
I think we should adopt the Stella system for denoting the quality of boulder problems. A problem that is one of the best of the venue should get 1 Stella, a problem that is one of the best in the county should get 2 Stellas and a problem of national or international relevance should be given 3 Stellas. Any problem which someone can do, whilst their mates who normally climb better than them cannot do should be given 4 Stellas in that person's guidebook.
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Like... personal guide books, and regular meetings in the oddlife bar! where the stella system really would be put into effect...
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Like... personal guide books, and regular meetings in the oddlife bar! where the stella system really would be put into effect...
oddlife bar is now a function room only :thumbsdown:
twas much better as a room for dysfunctional people
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get shut down on a 6b+
That's not surprising for Earl 6b+. Better sticking to the 7a and above.
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oddlife bar is now a function room only :thumbsdown:
twas much better as a room for dysfunctional people
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Ahh, this explains the resurecttion of certain 80's climbers that are now back....
Nice barbel...
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V1 - Leaving the car
V2 - Walk in
V3 - Split traverse
V4 - Beaver RH
V5 - Right wall Traverse
V6 - Pillar Start
V7 - Beaver Cleaver
V8 - Clever Beaver
V9 - Rockatrocity
V10 - wobbly block start/Lou Ferrino
Classic circuit ;)
Finally, some perspective!
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V1 - Leaving the car
V2 - Walk in
V3 - Split traverse
V4 - Beaver RH
V5 - Right wall Traverse
V6 - Pillar Start
V7 - Beaver Cleaver
V8 - Clever Beaver
V9 - Rockatrocity
V10 - wobbly block start/Lou Ferrino
Classic circuit ;)
Finally, some perspective!
:please:
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That's not surprising for Earl 6b+. Better sticking to the 7a and above.
A wise man once told me it's better to fail on harder problems, so never try anything below 7a :lol:
I find Earl an odd place, everything feels 4 grades harder than it's supposed to be :-[
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Weird thread. Bouldering is to specific to the individual. I can think of tons and would disagree with most here, Lager Lager for starters, Sloping Beauty and a cast of thousands....
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you saying lager lager is a soft touch?
I know a lot of not shit climbers who would disagree
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Youve got me wrong there Jim - I was pointing out some cracking problems not mentioned in the thread so far, and a cast of thousands. I thought it pointless to go on!
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Here's a few John Watson compiled.
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/08/classic-scottish-problems-no1.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/08/classic-scottish-problems-no1.html)
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/08/classic-scottish-problems-no2.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/08/classic-scottish-problems-no2.html)
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/08/classic-scottish-problems-no3.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/08/classic-scottish-problems-no3.html)
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/09/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no-4.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/09/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no-4.html)
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/09/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no5.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/09/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no5.html)
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/10/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no6.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/10/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no6.html)
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/10/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no7.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/10/classic-scottish-boulder-problems-no7.html) (reminds me of the classic gif!).
And a summary from last year.
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2007/12/bouldering-in-scotland-2007.html (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2007/12/bouldering-in-scotland-2007.html)
(I know I posted this before, but can't find where).
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Here's a few John Watson compiled.
Agree that we shouldn't forget the Scottish stones - Maisie Gunn and Bright size life are superb.
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is this the arete left of john dunne slab and then the slab to the left of that?
Yes. I was afforded the perfect excuse for not doing the arete when I had an Onyx failure... :-\
you mean you got scared...