In short I can't really see why V grades were ever used here.
Oh and have a wade through this amusing thread if you want to get most people's opinions on the subject:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11260.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11260.0.html)
:)
EDIT - Actually that thread is piss funny. Some Houdini and Sloper gold.
EDIT 2 - AND Fatdoc calling Grimer a wanker by mistake. :lol:
I have given other reasons too, mainly the confusion between the many versions of, say 6a, especially in a guide that uses the British technical grades.
While doing Stanage I did ask one very active member of this forum whether he thought we should switch to Font grades, and he said no, not since the series had been started in V grades, it would be a bad idea to change.
One set of numbers and letters is as arbitrary as the next
I understand completely the 6A/6a confusion rationale.
Also I tend to agree with Dylan. I can, with the aid of a handy conversion table, convert between the two quite easily.
the logic was clear, and it wasn't made in a pub between three people. These are not aimed solely at boulderers and ultimately having two identical-but-different grading scales in one book would be confusing.
To say that one set of numbers is as arbitary as the rest is true in some repsect but the V grade does appear to offer better seperation at the bottom end
It would be very confusing for most climbers to have trad grades with uk tech grades next to font grades that use the same nomenclature but mean something totally different.
can't believe everyone is getting their panties in such a bunch about a choice between two arbitrary sets of numbers. personally i always use a font number but if somebody says v whatever to me it is quite an easy thing to do a rough translation. the idea that grading is such a science that one scale cannot be applied to another rock type is also amazing to me. i think font has about as much similarity to grit as hueco does to grit ie fuck all.
I don't see how it helps to get to grips with a grading system if you have been to the area that it originated from or not.
Considering, Font 5+ in Font is anywhere between simple and impossible that doesn't really help me when looking in a Peak bouldering guide.
With all grading systems, it is pretty easy to tell the order that the grades go in, so once you start climbing the problems, you'll know what grades to aim at.
I'm happy on balance that we used V grades, although it was always a tricky decision.
1) Most people buying the book are not primarily boulderers, I suspect the modal purchaser is an HVS leader who
boulders occasionally. The target audience is crucial... For the same reason Ru was right to use Font grades.
2) Those from a lower grade chuffing background often want UK trad grades for boulder problems as they understand
these grades.
3) The confusion between 6A and 6a is real and more of an issue than that of keen boulderers translating.
4) As a relatively experienced climber I've learnt never to trust Font grades below 6 in Font. They only make sense if
you climb old unpopular and unpolished problems and take pof use into account; all in the context of a reluctance to
regrade. This is important since in my favourite highball areas on my favorite graded circuits (ranged around AD+) you
can be on an irreversible extreme solo before you know it. The 'Font 5 desperates' legend is overblown but does apply
(some harder graded problems of exactly the same style can be way easier).
5) The idea of a type of grade suiting a particular rock type is idiotic.
6) In my 20 odd years that I've known Sloper be publicly strident on things, we must be right if he says not.
EXACTLY!
(http://madnews.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/timwestwood.jpg)
Yeah, but V grades go into double figures. . .
I'm not saying anything :unsure:
That article from Simon Young made no sense at all
Oh and have a wade through this amusing thread if you want to get most people's opinions on the subjectCheers for that - have had a quick look and will have a proper read but it doesn't look like it really addresses the points I mentioned.
Forgive us ksjs, it's just been done to death before! Hence the log pile comments...
Fonts better as it has more smaller increments and some folk thing grades from Font translate better to Uk bouldering (ESP Grit) rather than V grades from Hueco Tanks.
i think its down to personal preference, either way the grade on a problem is just a guideline to show the difficulties of the problem, im not fussed either way,plus you know what americans are like! they speak 'american' apparently instead of 'english' simply by changing a few spellings around, if its not american its not good enough, they most likely just wanted there own grading system being fussy buggers that they are :ras:
also, i dont think anyone from the states gives a fuck what or how the UK guys rate boulder problems
and for the record....never in my fucking life have i ever heard someone call our language "speaking american". not sure if youre aware, we have huge immigration issues here, and SPEAK ENGLISH is a very commonly used phrase. :smirk:
yep, 200+ years and a few thousand miles can certainly create different ways of communicating the same ideas
we have huge immigration issues here, and SPEAK ENGLISH is a very commonly used phrase. :smirk:
:-\
also beside the point
we have huge immigration issues here, and SPEAK ENGLISH is a very commonly used phrase. :smirk:
Is this your attitude or are you just highlighting the fact?
...got pounded by 1/2 ft of snow yesterday....
Zero to -16 in one afternoon, is that a record??
i think its down to personal preference, either way the grade on a problem is just a guideline to show the difficulties of the problem, im not fussed either way,plus you know what americans are like! they speak 'american' apparently instead of 'english' simply by changing a few spellings around, if its not american its not good enough, they most likely just wanted there own grading system being fussy buggers that they are :ras:
youre an idiot. i suggest you do a little research into how the vermin ratings came about - then show some fucking respect. sherman is a living legend, how dare you call v ratings "fussy" when the french faggot font system has several levels for each number? lol, get real son
also, i dont think anyone from the states gives a fuck what or how the UK guys rate boulder problems - its not like we asked you to adopt the V system....several old school UK climbers likely preferred it, and so adopted it to their home crags. the system originated in hueco tanks in the 80s..didnt moffatt, moon, etc spend months and months camped out there?
and for the record....never in my fucking life have i ever heard someone call our language "speaking american". not sure if youre aware, we have huge immigration issues here, and SPEAK ENGLISH is a very commonly used phrase. :smirk:
if it wasnt for us, you wouldnt be dynoing for holds or using chalk for that matter. :kiss2:
and for the record....never in my fucking life have i ever heard someone call our language "speaking american". not sure if youre aware, we have huge immigration issues here, and SPEAK ENGLISH is a very commonly used phrase. :smirk: