UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: mark s on May 13, 2020, 04:41:44 pm
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I was walking up to the skyline from the back of the roaches at 8am. Early start as on 12 hour nights so need a few zzzz's
Went to doxeys pool and did a few probs there up to v4. I flashed staffs flier which i was chuffed with. Not hard but im still 97kg and its fucking hard work when heavy. I got out of the wind on the main ridge near san melas. Soloed mantis, an hvs which now gets E1. Felt ok, went for a vs 5a crack but the top was round as a cows arse so reversed. The went gib tor. Managed get off the ground on stall but that was it. Surprisingly according to some cocks on fb and ukc who thought the mrt teams were going to declare a major emergency, i survived my climb.
How did your day go?
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Wandered up to Buckstone this morning. Pottered a bit on easy stuff. Car park shut but loads of lay-bys. Nobody else climbing. A couple of folk dog walking, a couple who seemed to be making use of the being able to meet someone not from your household, although definitely not 2 metres apart.
On way home went to West Vale just to check out the parking. A couple of folk there on there own and looked like plenty of space. Definitely going back soon.
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Burbage dead, no chalk on anything, car parks 1/3 full
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a couple who seemed to be making use of the being able to meet someone not from your household, although definitely not 2 metres apart.
Know what I mean eh? Nudge nudge wink wink.
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Figured I'd grab a chance to do the plantation circuit before every hold is a biohazard. Very quiet, absolute max ten boulderers (though two had come from London), no chalk on most stuff. Hardly anyone tradding either, a couple of pairs below the crag, saw one person off the ground all day.
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It was raining here this morning, pretty much the 1st time since lockdown, but just a shower.
Had a couple of hours close to home in total isolation as I suspected.
People have been climbing a fair bit though over the last weeks as loads of chalk. Not from today so I guess the last few weeks.
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I took Spike out climbing (I'm out tomorrow). He wanted to go to Lees Bottom so we went there. Was dry and some probs chalked. Nobody else there when we arrive. A climber arrived late in our session. We spoke briefly and he opted to have his lunch in his van and come back in a bit as we were nearly finished. All very easy, amicable and socially distant.
Drove past various crags on way there and back. Not many cars at Gardoms, or Froggatt. A fair number at Burbage S, but given Longshaw carpark still closed I would guess a lot were walkers.
All surprisingly quiet given how good the connies were.
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PS -The garden centre at Calver was queuing and had a full carpark.
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PS -The garden centre at Calver was queuing and had a full carpark.
I'm glad to hear the garden centre is open again. I've been living on borrowed thyme.
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Had a wander along Stanage yesterday evening, cleared up a carrier bags worth of rubbish from below the edge. Mainly beer bottles and crisp packets. Quite a few rocks that had been thrown off the top and made a bit of a mess too. But encouraging to see grass growing on some of the paths again, in fact some of the lesser paths have almost grassed over completely.
Looking forward to a bit of a potter somewhere at the weekend :)
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Drive past Kilnsey on way to Yew Cogar. Dead, and same on way home. No one at yew either.
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Northern end of Stanage - lucky I didn’t heed the advice of Will “Stanage Local” Hunt. Not only was social distancing not a problem, the only people I saw from where I was climbing were a runner and a couple of walkers on top of the edge. Nice to be out.
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All surprisingly quiet given how good the connies were.
I suspect this is because quite a lot of people are still torn about going climbing. I’d love to get out to the crag but still not convinced it’s a great idea. Even if is now ‘allowed’ I don’t fully agree with the government’s approach and think they’ve started easing things too early. In the same way I started self isolating a good week or so before official lockdown. I suspect many other climbers are similarly torn over what is the best approach. I’m fairly happy to wait a bit longer. But also understand (and definitely don’t judge) those heading out.
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Some of us have become institutionalised and the prospect of outdoors seems quite scary. I know where I am with my local runs and garage board.
Or maybe people are at work?
I came downstairs this morning to find a note that said “too excited to sleep so gone climbing”.
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I came downstairs this morning to find a note that said “too excited to sleep so gone climbing”.
:clap2:
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English cunts.
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Some of us have become institutionalised and the prospect of outdoors seems quite scary. I know where I am with my local runs and garage board.
That’s kind of where I am - with a bit of what JamieG wrote...
I figured I’d at least wait a day or two or three and see what reports of how it was working (or not - though all seems fine so far) were.. I’m torn about where to go if I do go out as well... Most of my usual haunts are usually quiet/dead in terms of other climbers - but parking/approaches less so...
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Malham was nice and quiet. Perfect cons. And a few friendly locals waving and shouting encouragement
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5 degrees and low humidity so rare late season grit connies. Ben was keen for Suavito but dissuaded him as it’s highball. He highlighted on Mossatrocity and sold it on the basis that I could do the 7A stand. Left the house at 8.30. Surprised at how quiet the roads were and how few cars parked. No other cars at Grindleford station. Lovely place. The stand was nails. Heel hook, slap, slap off for me. Boys got higher.
Left them to it and walked up Padley Gorge. Really lovely. Came back. Boys said Nathan Phillips had showed up but went back to car as they were just finishing to wait. Good man. No tick of stand let alone sit for any of us.
Packed up and persuaded them it would be worth swinging by the Tor. Ben was guessing 12 climbers would be there. I wasn’t so sure. Two vans in lay-by and no one on the crag. Game theory innit.
One of the van lifers stuck his head out. Later saw Grimer had taken him to task on FB. He’s lived there the last few weeks.
Boys went and worked on Powerband. I went on Bens Without. Despite being half a stone heavier did two hardest moves. Tips too sore to try the third. Joined the boys but too tired trying crux of Powerband and Rattle and Hump. Gave up. Home by 3pm. Perfect.
Was weird to go out. Know what you mean about being institutionalised Tom. Feels normal again already.
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I got out with the kids after work.
Burbage north was a lot quieter than I expected.
Ring ouzels everywhere.
I felt a bit emotional on the drive out. Kids first time in a vehicle since lockdown started. When the lad started running about and jumping for joy a little tear leaked out.
Final straw was when middle child hugged me to emphasize how happy she was to see proper scenery. I don't think they noticed me crying.
Some rocks were climbed.
Edit- on reflection, it's a good thing that it went well. All that emotion could have been used in a more destructive way if someone had challenged me about, well, anything at all really. Slightly concerned that I hadn't noticed the strength of emotions going on inside me.
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I went to Crookstones (AKA Hellifield). The Rylstone layby has room for about 3 cars and I was the third. Other two cars empty and no sign of owners. Walked up with a group of 3 hillwalkers behind me. I had a stick brush with me and used that to lift and replace the gate hooks, which felt like overkill but was not without a certain satisfying pleasure.
There was a bit of chalk on the Shark boulder and a stashed pad nearby. Did a couple of things and then moved over to the other side of the gill. Some great downgrades happened which almost brought a tear to my eye. Bobbed from boulder to boulder doing the crag classics. There's a huge amount to go at there of mixed quality. Tried the highball Roy's Arete and got to the tricky bit and reversed to the ground. In other times I would have had a go and got committed - quite glad that I didn't now having read the UKC comments! Did a couple of the easy highball aretes and more nice stuff in the 6s. Backed off a highball that was basically a crux mantel top out at 4/5m. Great rock quality up there, and very close to Faerie's Chest.
Throughout the day I'd been looking back at a big block on the opposite side of the gill which you pass on the approach but don't see from the path. Not in the book or online so headed back over at the end of the day. Unfortunately it was slabbier than it looked from the other side of the valley, but the rock was nice and I did 9 new/unrecorded problems. Most between 4 and 5 but one nice 6B+.
Saw three pairs of hillwalkers go past during the day.
To those who saw other people who then went away to wait till you'd finished - were these small crags/buttresses where you couldn't be apart?
I don't want to bring up the whole Stanage thing again. I was just surprised that Adam had listed it as his number one go to when the BMC guidance suggested avoiding honeypots. That's all. I'm not trying to judge.
Had More or Less on during the drive and there was some very reassuring chat therein about transmission outdoors. It would seem that provided you stay apart, the odds on getting it while you're exercising outdoors are two-thirds of fuck all. With that in mind, I'm very happy to enjoy myself and it's great to have a good excuse to get to the less popular crags that I haven't been to yet.
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Yes Will, Lees Bottom is quiet compact. You could have two sets of climbers climbing easily, but more than that would be fiddly.
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Helsby in the woods, never been so happy to be so weak. Figured it’d be quieter than the hilltop. Clean rock, some recent chalk, couple of friendly stoners skulking in the nearby cave. Mellow hour pottering, couple of traverses, flopped on anything needing more oomph. Wandered up to the hilltop for sunset. No climbers, no chalk, a few couples up for a smoochy sit as the sun dropped under the Mersey horizon.
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English cunts.
Amen bro'
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Lawrencefield and Millstone.
Car park was open, busy with walkers and one other team heading over to Millstone.
Lawrencefield decidedly dirty and getting even more grassy/ferny that it was before. Virtually every route, bar Billy Whizz had grass on it somewhere (maybe it was like that before). Hints of chalk on suspense, BW and gingerbread slab.
Utterly Utterly deserted and lovely to be stood in the midst of the silver birch feeling very alone and isolated.
Went over to Millstone, only the one team on Bond Street.
Felt very solitary in Green Death area. Connies were utterly mint. Not a breath of wind there, yet no midges, and the wind swishing through the silver birch combined with almost perfect silence at times was exceptionally good for the soul.
Close but no tick for Super Direct Start though. Never mind.
Interesting to see chalk on Edge Lane, Green Death and possibly on Scritto's , but I suspect it was someone abseil inspecting the lines as there didn't look to be enough chalk top to bottom, or for a top rope session.
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Went to the Tor (must have just missed Shark :wave: ).
Decent connies, went up Ring of Fire a few times. Clunky at first, but quickly improved, so much so I hit my high point of last year :o
Looks like 8 weeks of fingerboarding might have had a positive impact.
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English cunts.
Amen bro'
I'm so envious right now. Wish I lived in England....
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Round Crag, NYM. Quiet roads on drive, long queue for Cooplands in Malton (didn't stop). Few cars parked near Lion Inn, would guess walkers mainly. Don't think I've ever seen anyone at the crag before but today bumped into a pair of twitchers and also a pair of boulderers - sounded like they'd normally be on yorkshire grit but opted for somewhere guaranteed quiet. Improvised 'Farndale Closed' signage on blakey ridge I'd heard about removed. Good cons but just generally amazing to be out.
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Well jeal of all who got out, I spent the day trying to sort out supply issues of face masks, for lads who went back to work on Monday. This is proving difficult to solve - can see potential for work shutting down again through a lack of available PPE on some sites. Prices for masks have gone ridiculous, and workers are understandably twitchy about control measures for covid.
Good to hear about people’s good experiences. Looking forward to getting out Friday to see what sort of shape I’m in after 6 weeks of easy lime traversing.
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Anyone know if the Millers Dale car park is open? Might take the lad for a scoot along the trail in his bike later on today - and have a drive by inspection of Blackwell etc...
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So genuine question, I live in Nottingham and have got a day off from working from home tomorrow, is it ok to drive to the peak, for a walk and some solo bouldering? this isn't the legality of it, as officially it's probably OK, but what's deemed acceptable by those who've already been out/live out there.
Obviously I'm not getting a pint of coffee in Outside or buying lunch at the co-op, but if I rock up at Burbage south am I likely to get moved on by the five0 or attacked by pitch fork wielding locals from Hathersage.
Cheers Rich
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So genuine question, I live in Nottingham and have got a day off from working from home tomorrow, is it ok to drive to the peak, for a walk and some solo bouldering? this isn't the legality of it, as officially it's probably OK, but what's deemed acceptable by those who've already been out/live out there.
Obviously I'm not getting a pint of coffee in Outside or buying lunch at the co-op, but if I rock up at Burbage south am I likely to get moved on by the five0 or attacked by pitch fork wielding locals from Hathersage.
Cheers Rich
You absolutely should not be challenged by the police as what you suggest is very much permitted in the guidance. A walk and some solo bouldering sounds perfectly reasonable. The only thing you could fall foul of is the pitchforkers, but by all accounts these weren't in evidence yesterday. There'll probably be a bit of a surge this weekend, so maybe leave it till after then to use car parks in/near villages.
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cheers Will, not been out of my postcode area for 9 and a bit weeks now, no climbing and no karate, so psychologically it'll do me the world of good (nearly as much good as the relief for the wife and kids)
Rich
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So genuine question, I live in Nottingham and have got a day off from working from home tomorrow, is it ok to drive to the peak, for a walk and some solo bouldering? this isn't the legality of it, as officially it's probably OK, but what's deemed acceptable by those who've already been out/live out there.
Obviously I'm not getting a pint of coffee in Outside or buying lunch at the co-op, but if I rock up at Burbage south am I likely to get moved on by the five0 or attacked by pitch fork wielding locals from Hathersage.
Cheers Rich
Worth considering going somewhere less busy. Being in Nottingham plenty of handier quiet options in Matlock / Amber Valley area.
This website is a gold mine of information if you haven’t come across it already:
https://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/
Local knowledge suggests to avoid Stone Edge, eatswood and Stoney Ley/ Crag Z re access issues.
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Good call Shark - no idea where to go yet, going to get the guide out - I'd not seen the esotoric guide before, added that to the favourites.
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No one knows is the real answer Rich.... unfortunately.
Legally it seems fine. Otherwise (morally / in the 'spirit' of lockdown etc..) thats in the eyes of the person going - and for anyone who is there or you meet on the way. No one is right or wrong.
Its a really weird one isnt it!
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I've seen very little negativity around the eastern edges since very early on, when the odd farm put negative signs out. Always worth bearing in mind that those taking a moral hard-line are over-represented online.
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One of the farms in the Limb Valley (just below Houndkirk Moor) removed non essential gates between fields, which was pretty nice to see.
I’ve also seen other gates removed off Houndkirk Rd and between there and Burbage but maybe that was just coincidence?
A friend of mine lives in Great Longstone and there’s definitely a lot of anxiety around masses of people returning, especially given the village has a very old population for the most part. Dunno about pitchforks though as a local farmer tried to block rights of way early on which didn’t go down well with the village walkers/runners. Most Peak villages have outdoor sports-oriented people living there.
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One of the farms in the Limb Valley (just below Houndkirk Moor) removed non essential gates between fields, which was pretty nice to see.
Few kissing gates around here with the little metal catches removed or zip tied so you can pass hands free. Still generally work as gates, just a thoughtful touch.
Like everyone else, I've had a mix of thoughts about going out again, but hindsight says last night was ok and really not a problem. Just relistening to that 'More or Less' Will mentions, for any insight about transmission outdoors - https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m000htw2
I'm a rubbish climber at the best of times but here's my little outing last night. Very weak, very satisfying - https://www.instagram.com/p/CAKPWErDd27/
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Anyone know if the Millers Dale car park is open? Might take the lad for a scoot along the trail in his bike later on today - and have a drive by inspection of Blackwell etc...
Looked open as I drove past yesterday. Cars parked up, gate open.
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I went out yesterday early - but not as early as I meant to - to do my trackside lap. Someone else just got there and we had a bit of awkwardness about whether we were both allowed to climb on the rock at the same time (it's a pretty big rock) but I went up the hill to play on Dan's Wall until the other person finished up.
Did my usual lap and injuries didn't hold me back. There was a spider web deep in the upper strawberries crack. Dont think it was there before. Sorry spiders. But all the moves felt just like they ever did. For a moment it was as if the last two months had evaporated.
No passers by.
All finished up by 730. That sort of time of day most places are pretty quiet. I had wondered whether it would be busy later but from the sounds of things on here maybe not.
It did feel odd being there. Like I was exploiting a legal loophole. I know it was quiet only because other people weren't there but the suns up at 5 tho and my kids not long after so every reason to make use of the quieter times of day. Until lockdown 2 anyway.
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if I rock up at Burbage south am I likely to get moved on by the five0 or attacked by pitch fork wielding locals from Hathersage
go for it rich, its been ok out there for a few weeks now, plenty of walkers and runners, loads of mountain bikers although not seen any climbing; the main carparks are still closed but park in an obscure layby, the police seem less bothered too & most locals seem ok, not seen any burning straw yet!
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I went out yesterday early - but not as early as I meant to - to do my trackside lap. Someone else just got there and we had a bit of awkwardness about whether we were both allowed to climb on the rock at the same time (it's a pretty big rock) but I went up the hill to play on Dan's Wall until the other person finished up.
Did my usual lap and injuries didn't hold me back. There was a spider web deep in the upper strawberries crack. Dont think it was there before. Sorry spiders. But all the moves felt just like they ever did. For a moment it was as if the last two months had evaporated.
No passers by.
All finished up by 730. That sort of time of day most places are pretty quiet. I had wondered whether it would be busy later but from the sounds of things on here maybe not.
It did feel odd being there. Like I was exploiting a legal loophole. I know it was quiet only because other people weren't there but the suns up at 5 tho and my kids not long after so every reason to make use of the quieter times of day. Until lockdown 2 anyway.
Hi Murph. That idiot arriving at silly o'clock was me. Sorry for the awkwardness.
I'd decided before I arrived that if someone was already at trackside. I'd go up the hill. If someone turned up and they seemed to want to stay at trackside I'd go up the hill. I was trying to control some anxiety at the time and probably came across a bit tetchy. It was nothing personal and it just all felt a bit weird.
Glad you had a good session. I climbed like a rusty tin man.
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Its a LOT busier out there today. With walkers/families picnicking rather than climbers tho, Surprise view and burbage parking v busy stanage less so .
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Hello plattsy :wave: no need to apologise totally understandable. I had gone there with the vague idea that if it was busy I would go up to Dan's or mini prow but hadnt really thought about interacting and how not everyone would share the exact same risk appetite.
I hesitated for a while before posting here but thought it was best to do it so others might consider how they will act when they go out.
I haven't been socialising much recently so likewise if I came across badly. See you around. Hope you get back into it ok.
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Solo at Greator Rocks - no mat as is stashed at rocks near house for my lockdown forays and this was a nice wander for my wife and daughter. No one there, of course, but enjoyed all routes up to E1. Ferns still just about low enough.
Two couples at Hound Tor on Skin Graft and Shark’s fin.
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I decided to go to Cademan today for an easy potter to get back in to moving on rock.
Probably not many people's choice of a first place to go back to but after so long stuck in and around home, a circuit at Cademan feels as good as Font!
There were a few cars in the lay-bys so I went for a walk first to scout out where was free to climb. I saw one other boulderer and a few walkers from a distance but it's very quiet. I haven't seen another person for the last 2 hours.
The walkers have all been very friendly, no hint of any conflict. Everyone is just enjoying being outside in the good weather.
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Two couples at Hound Tor on Skin Graft...
Wouldn't be my first choice for a return to rock problem. I think i still have scars.
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No cars in Blackwell as of 2pm... (I was passing through with the nipper)
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Struck out a bit further today and went to Caley.
Car parks at top open. Lots of walkers and dog walkers. Only saw one other climber who and we chatted from about 30 foot apart.
Did some higher easy stuff and Mr Smooth for the umpteenth time, although I want wearing a baseball cap so it doesn’t count.
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Went to explore one of the more esoteric areas in the South Lakes today. Didn't see anyone else climbing (hardly a surprise) but plenty of walkers around. No one seemed too bothered with me falling off some lowball traverse next to the path and everyone seemed to keep to themselves.
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Murph wound me up so much that Griff’s would be crowded by 4am (plan A), so I decided to practice ultimate social distancing by going there from 1am to 5am!
Strangely magical session; not particularly cold, skin went after an hour, but just couldn’t stop grinning even with the pain
Def has been lockdown activity there, but was too happy to resent it..
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Kiddy-caving circuit at Stoney today. Surprised to finds legends reunited going on at Minus ten!
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Anyone know if the Millers Dale car park is open? Might take the lad for a scoot along the trail in his bike later on today - and have a drive by inspection of Blackwell etc...
Millers dale car park is open.
Yesterday the ticket machine was still covered too, but didn’t notice if that had changed today.
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Drove past the Cheerful Chilli mid-afternoon and both car parks busy. Not quite cars on the verges but close.
I went to Swastika Stones. Bit of chalk on a couple of things but hard to tell how old it might have been. Did a wonderful arete next to Swastika Eyes that featured a perfect stop-the-barn-door type move to reach the top. Brilliant feeling. Saw one other climber as I was walking out. Very few people on the Millenium Way.
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Drove past the Cheerful Chilli mid-afternoon and both car parks busy. Not quite cars on the verges but close.
It does amaze me how people in north and west Leeds seem to see the Chevin as the only possible option for a walk! Always rammed.
I went to Slawston Bridge for some nostalgic traversing yesterday and to the Churnet today. Never been before, not sure why as its amazing. Car park was closed which is going to be an issue at the weekend as there were a lot of walkers cars about. Only saw a few other climbers at Wrights and was about to leave anyway when the second group turned up.
It feels fucking great i have to say.
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I decided to practice ultimate social distancing by going there from 1am to 5am
:jaw:
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Rode along Ringinglow this evening, Burbage North parking was busy but no visible climbers on burb north west or south (admittedly hard to spot all of south from a bike on Ringinglow...). Saw three bouldering mats walking up to Higgar otherwise seemingly just walkers or drug dealers...??
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Kiddy-caving circuit at Stoney today. Surprised to finds legends reunited going on at Minus ten!
Moon, Moffatt and Sharma?
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Kiddy-caving circuit at Stoney today. Surprised to finds legends reunited going on at Minus ten!
Moon, Moffatt and Sharma?
Where was Tony Simpson?
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"Where was Tony Simpson?"
Am I ignorant or should I know who Tony Simpson is :-[
The only Simpson I can think of is Richard Simpson. Now if it was him that could be an interesting meeting given Moon used to sponsor him before the :worms: were opened.
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Tony Simpson legend of Rothwell climbing wall.
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If anybody goes sport climbing with someone from outside their household I'd be interested to know, honestly, whether you were able to maintain SD. I'm really keen to go and clip some bolts but not convinced it would be practical.
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If anybody goes sport climbing with someone from outside their household I'd be interested to know, honestly, whether you were able to maintain SD. I'm really keen to go and clip some bolts but not convinced it would be practical.
You have a youngling, no?
It’s never too early to teach them to hold your rope.
Toddler-schmoddler!
Just tack a 70ltr bergan and fill it with rocks and lash the little darling to it with a spare chalkbag belt. They’ll be fine with a Gri Gri.
Anyway, belayers are of only psychological benefit:
https://www.gif-vif.com/No-no-no-132 (https://www.gif-vif.com/No-no-no-132)
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Went to Cottage Rocks in The Churnet. Roadside parking busy, but no-one at rocks. Beautiful setting, glorious sunny but cool and breezy weather, rock in good condition.
I did a few Font 5s. My skin lasted 5 problems, my motivation lasted 2. I felt depressed, apathetic and uninspired - and even less like a climber than I did during lockdown (i.e. not at all).
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If anybody goes sport climbing with someone from outside their household I'd be interested to know, honestly, whether you were able to maintain SD. I'm really keen to go and clip some bolts but not convinced it would be practical.
I went out bolt clipping in the dales yday. Nice quiet spot. A few walkers came past, all very friendly. Two other parties there - one obviously another couple. The other two guys not from same household. Each party kept their distance from one another. No evidence of social distancing being practised by the two guys though and don’t see how it would be reasonably practical. Lots of rope in mouth action going on too. Just like with other work and life situations I can see even with the best will in the world once you get involved in something SD measures will slide.
Both other parties were open about having been out during lockdown too.
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I’ve heard that some 9 year olds are a solid 35kg. Would it be unethical for someone to attach a 5kg weight vest to their son so that they can use an Edelrid Ohm (minimum weight belayer 40kg). Asking for a friend.
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I'm not so worried about the rope in mouth thing. You just have one end of the rope for each person. But I can imagine milling around and getting on with it being tricky.
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Went to Stanage Pop last night. Incredible evening weather wise. A few teams out.
Was first up at Rusty Wall area, to do a bit of warming up before my mate arrived. One other team over on Black Hawk area.
Another team turns up and gets on Queersville - about 20 meters to the right. Fair dos.
Another guy turns up, dumps his sack at Christmas Crack, 15m to the left. OK, not too bothered, but feeling a little busier then I might have liked. But the one that really got to me was the next guy, couple of minutes later, wandering up toward the crag, then towards rusty wall, then literally dumps his sack 3m to my right. I bit my lip and didn't say anything, just continued soloing about on rusty wall. FFS. The crag is 4 miles fecking long. I know it wasn't really a problem, 2m and all that but it proper had me seething. Just fuck off and find a different bit of crag.
He then jumped straight on queersville as the couple were topping out.
We headed over to Congo Corner area to get away from everyone, but then found that as we came back down off the top, the couple who had finished on Queersville, were setting off up Congo Corner, straight after us, so we had to sort of nip in close and gather a bit of kit etc from the bottom.
I just couldn't see why, when there was no good reason to even be within 50m of each other. People could be so single minded as to be within 2,3, 5 meters etc.
:no:
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Not unexpected sadly.
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If anybody goes sport climbing with someone from outside their household I'd be interested to know, honestly, whether you were able to maintain SD. I'm really keen to go and clip some bolts but not convinced it would be practical.
An anonymous message on the PMs.
I was out sport climbing yesterday with a non-household member. I think if you were strict with yourselves, and clipsticked the first 2/3 bolts, it's doable. However in reality we very quickly slipped in to old habits. Judging by other parties at the crag, don't think we were the only ones.
Which is kind of what I expected might happen. I think I'll stick to bouldering for now.
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Went to Stanage Pop last night. Incredible evening weather wise. A few teams out.
Was first up at Rusty Wall area, to do a bit of warming up before my mate arrived. One other team over on Black Hawk area.
Another team turns up and gets on Queersville - about 20 meters to the right. Fair dos.
Another guy turns up, dumps his sack at Christmas Crack, 15m to the left. OK, not too bothered, but feeling a little busier then I might have liked. But the one that really got to me was the next guy, couple of minutes later, wandering up toward the crag, then towards rusty wall, then literally dumps his sack 3m to my right. I bit my lip and didn't say anything, just continued soloing about on rusty wall. FFS. The crag is 4 miles fecking long. I know it wasn't really a problem, 2m and all that but it proper had me seething. Just fuck off and find a different bit of crag.
He then jumped straight on queersville as the couple were topping out.
We headed over to Congo Corner area to get away from everyone, but then found that as we came back down off the top, the couple who had finished on Queersville, were setting off up Congo Corner, straight after us, so we had to sort of nip in close and gather a bit of kit etc from the bottom.
I just couldn't see why, when there was no good reason to even be within 50m of each other. People could be so single minded as to be within 2,3, 5 meters etc.
:no:
Thats shit. Ignorance or lack of consideration/ability to perspective take...
Easier typed than done, but I think its best to be direct in these situations? "excuse me - I'm not comfortable with you climbing that close to me". See what they do. Probably just ignorant of how others feel - and if they're that much of a Cnut that they stick around - I'd just move on.
It is weird though when other people arrive: I had a deserted evening at W4 last night - until 8:30 when two people turned up (scoping for problems) - then Robin turned up to say hello from a distance - then three other people walked through having a look. Never seen so many people :D Anyway - it was certainly a bit weird when the first people arrived - and I was a bit more bristle with my greetings than normal. That was all explained afterwards...
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I’ve heard that some 9 year olds are a solid 35kg. Would it be unethical for someone to attach a 5kg weight vest to their son so that they can use an Edelrid Ohm (minimum weight belayer 40kg). Asking for a friend.
BMC ambassador says go for it. https://www.instagram.com/p/CANJA9-jYO2/?igshid=ahl3ebnl30tk
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Went to the magnificent Ravenswick quarry, surprisingly there was no one else there. Although it was plastered with chalk including large tick marks on a lot of the footholds. It was nearly completely dry, the odd wet foothold. When I last went on March 2nd it was barely dry lots of seepage as well as run off.
It would appear to have been getting used during the lock down.
On a more positive note I am no shitter or just as shit when I last climbed there having not climbed since March 12th.
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I’ve heard that some 9 year olds are a solid 35kg. Would it be unethical for someone to attach a 5kg weight vest to their son so that they can use an Edelrid Ohm (minimum weight belayer 40kg). Asking for a friend.
A second child was useful as I used to clip them together
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OMG the thought of trying to lead something with my two tied together at the base. Soloing would be safer.
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OMG the thought of trying to lead something with my two tied together at the base. Soloing would be safer.
"No, I'M belaying Daddy!"
*Eldest snatches rope out of youngest's hands*
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Do it with twin ropes with a child belaying on each?
Half the chance of death...
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OMG the thought of trying to lead something with my two tied together at the base. Soloing would be safer.
Thankfully us boomers don’t give a shit about our kids :lol:
:-\ Thinking about it I may have just used them as a counterweight as I rope soloed with a modified gri gri
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Went out to Nesscliffe, everything about being back out at a crag felt amazing. Just driving through the countryside, walking through the woods, and then seeing the cliffs up close, everything looked amazing! One other pair there in main wall area. Another pair turned up later to make six of us. I was with a mate from outside my household.. Good just to catch up and chat. SD in effect, but sharing of belay devices and TR's.. :-\
We set up a TR and shared the other pair's TR (!). Pleased just to be moving up routes on a top rope with no stress and felt pleased that I wasn't as shit as I feared, managed a pair of E5s 'onsight top rope' 8), and an E7 clean. All I'd never been on before. Maybe back to lead them on the weekend, not really what I imagined easing out of lock down would be like.. felt like climbing never went away (well, it didn't if you count endless lime lowball traversing)
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Nice afternoon bouldering at the buttress between Moat and Majorca at WCJ. A couple at Moat and noises from The Cornice but rest of the valley , and parking, seemed fairly quiet. The missus went for a run up Cheedale and said it seemed fairly quiet there too.
Great to be back on rock but it’s just not quite the same without a pint of Absolution sat outside the Red Lion, watching the sun go down :wavecry:
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Had a walk down to Cheedale with the family. Quite a few out sport climbing. Very dry, even stuff like Monumental looks dry, though pretty dusty obvs. Ash leaves not out yet so still very light and airy. Tree bridge still good for Chee Tor.
Lay-bys looking busier on the drive out. NT car parks at Longshaw look to be open.
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I got to Burbage west and north this evening. Not many climbers out.
I only 2 people on rock.
I got emotional again; mostly due to views and bird life. I clearly need to get a grip and man up.
A willow warbler landed on my arm :dance1:
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I've been out bouldering in the Peak twice since we were allowed, quiet but not really esoteric spots. Hardly seen a soul although the roads were busy. It's felt a real privilege being out seeing the wildlife and the abundancy of nature, the climbing has been quite secondary really, but still the feeling of moving over rock has been amazing to have again.
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From the other channel
“There’s a parking spot in Calver on the little one way stretch of road between the village green and the football pitches. Walkers etc have historically left there cars here for the day. Just a heads up that all the cars parked up there today had their tyres let down, some multiple tyres.
there were people waiting for recovery when Mrs Paul in Sheffield was out on the dog walk. One unfortunate had all four tyres let down.
There’s a lot of rumblings from locals about the increasing numbers parking up around Curbar Gap and Stoney. I’m not sure what the answer is, but this isn’t going to go away in the near future I don’t think”
:wank:
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Thanks mark. Is the carpark at curbar gap open yet? That would help.
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I thought I’d read that the curbar gap parking is open but I can’t find where I saw that now.
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Curbar gap parking was closed yesterday.
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The irony being that the vandals have now caused recovery vehicles to be called out, upping the risk. :spank:
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The Welsh gov guidance and BMC guidance suggests climbing within walking distance is OK, so me and my climber housemate popped down to LPT today. Mint connies and had the place to ourselves, not a bad local crag :) Although the silence was a bit strange.. no music drifting across from the pier. Weird times.
I'd forgotten how physical sport climbing is compared to trad. Leading 'Under the Boardwalk' today felt physically harder than top-roping Nescliffe E7 on Friday!
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OK, now I'm jealous
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I did feel I should be fitter to do justice to the situation.. I bet by the time I'm fit enough the hordes will be back to burn me off!
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The Welsh gov guidance and BMC guidance suggests climbing within walking distance is OK, so me and my climber housemate popped down to LPT today. Mint connies and had the place to ourselves, not a bad local crag :) Although the silence was a bit strange.. no music drifting across from the pier. Weird times.
I'd forgotten how physical sport climbing is compared to trad. Leading 'Under the Boardwalk' today felt physically harder than top-roping Nescliffe E7 on Friday!
Johnny Brown... I believe this is your sphere of ethics - toproping not being trad climbing
:P
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Good point - I should have qualified by saying - 'than top-roping trad routes' ;D
The mind's a funny thing isn't it.
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I'd forgotten how physical sport climbing is compared to trad. Leading 'Under the Boardwalk' today felt physically harder than top-roping Nescliffe E7 on Friday!
Was it Yukan II by any chance?
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Curbar gap parking was closed yesterday.
Sorry, you're right. Drove past just now, at 9ish, and it's closed off. Judging by the cars that were still scattered along the verge it has been rammed up there today. Looked to be a camper with a pop top getting ready for the night at Surprise View.
On my way out at 4ish it was surprisingly busy. Quite a few folk just wandering around Castleton, fuck knows why when it's all closed. Hmm I can see why some locals are getting twitchy... :popcorn: :worms: etc
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I did feel I should be fitter to do justice to the situation.. I bet by the time I'm fit enough the hordes will be back to burn me off!
At least you’ll have the warm ups wired
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I got out over the weekend; the first time in 8-9 weeks I'd done a "move", just fingerboarding in the interim. Overall, I was not as hapless as I had feared but I quickly realised that the Beastmaker app is no preparation for f5 slopey mantels!
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Trowbarrow was very quiet on the climbing front. There from 9-12.30, no other boulderers, a couple of top ropers/shunters.
Connie's decent. Boulderer not so.
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I'd forgotten how physical sport climbing is compared to trad. Leading 'Under the Boardwalk' today felt physically harder than top-roping Nescliffe E7 on Friday!
Was it Yukan II by any chance?
Marlene Direct.. felt like vertical face sport 6b+/c to a good rest then a short balancy V4 crux on the top arete. Not complaining mind, lovely route!
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Marlene Direct.. felt like vertical face sport 6b+/c to a good rest then a short balancy V4 crux on the top arete. Not complaining mind, lovely route!
Yeh great route and what a line!
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From the other channel
“There’s a parking spot in Calver on the little one way stretch of road between the village green and the football pitches. Walkers etc have historically left there cars here for the day. Just a heads up that all the cars parked up there today had their tyres let down, some multiple tyres.
there were people waiting for recovery when Mrs Paul in Sheffield was out on the dog walk. One unfortunate had all four tyres let down.
There’s a lot of rumblings from locals about the increasing numbers parking up around Curbar Gap and Stoney. I’m not sure what the answer is, but this isn’t going to go away in the near future I don’t think”
:wank:
This guy lives in Calver and its total bollox, I live local and no one else has heard of the incident. No police report, no locals including the eyere arms across the road, no garage has said anything , no one saw anything, I drove past and didn't see any mass servicing of cars to re-inflate as it would of been about 10 that needed helping. The rumblings are aimed at the general mindless throng, not climbers and walkers who are amongst the best behaved.
I have to say as well some of the vitriol aimed at locals who dare to voice concerns is a bit out of order. People live out hear with familys and work and carry on like everybodys else does. Because they have got angry at someone who was shitting in there back garden they are now a pitchfork wielding redneck
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There do seem to be a lot of people out who look like maybe they're not used to it.. driving back from WCJ (cornice and moat, couple of teams at each, all dry) it was heaving yesterday, including lots of family groups who seemed to have decided to drive out to the peak in order to take a walk... Along the the road...
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Two trips out this weekend.
Bouldering early doors Saturday morning, got a bit emotional seeing Mam Tor and the Great ridge in lovely light and realising how much I had missed it all/how much it all meant to me. Also found that fingerboarding has done nothing for my movement skills.....
Family toproping on Sunday at Windgather. Quite a few teams out (6 or 7 pairs?), people "reasonably" spaced. Kids were in heaven, their excitement at not being in the garden/the park was palpable. Slightly marred by standing in a human shit early doors but apart from that, a weekend that has been great for the soul.
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From the other channel
“There’s a parking spot in Calver on the little one way stretch of road between the village green and the football pitches. Walkers etc have historically left there cars here for the day. Just a heads up that all the cars parked up there today had their tyres let down, some multiple tyres.
there were people waiting for recovery when Mrs Paul in Sheffield was out on the dog walk. One unfortunate had all four tyres let down.
There’s a lot of rumblings from locals about the increasing numbers parking up around Curbar Gap and Stoney. I’m not sure what the answer is, but this isn’t going to go away in the near future I don’t think”
:wank:
This guy lives in Calver and its total bollox, I live local and no one else has heard of the incident. No police report, no locals including the eyere arms across the road, no garage has said anything , no one saw anything, I drove past and didn't see any mass servicing of cars to re-inflate as it would of been about 10 that needed helping. The rumblings are aimed at the general mindless throng, not climbers and walkers who are amongst the best behaved.
I have to say as well some of the vitriol aimed at locals who dare to voice concerns is a bit out of order. People live out hear with familys and work and carry on like everybodys else does. Because they have got angry at someone who was shitting in there back garden they are now a pitchfork wielding redneck
Sorry I didn’t mean to spread mis-information , just what I read on there. And the wanker symbol wasn’t aimed at all, just those (who possibly don’t exist) who’d let tyres down.
To be honest I’m quite surprised the people who live in those villages aren’t more aggrieved, having seen the amount of cars parked up and people wandering aimlessly around the roads and villages yesterday, like Barrows also says.
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Was noticeably busier in Hope Valley this weeekend. Climbed early-ish Sat and Sun morning. Both times saw a couple of other climbers but all very sensible and civilised.
The general vibe I’m getting is that it’s a shame it’s not still really quiet (because it was obviously very lovely, if weird) but that it is to be expected and not in and of itself a ‘bad’ thing. However (and I say this as someone who likes and rides motorbikes) the biggest dicks by far have been the bikers. Big swarms of them. No efforts at all to social distance, illegally loud exhausts, riding waaaaay to fast, stopping in stupid places (guy stopping his bike halfway down Winnats pass on a busy Sat afternoon to try and photograph it, wtf!?). Not tarring all bikers with the same brush by any extent, but I guess it is an activity that attracts more than it’s fair share of ‘that kind of person’...
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And I agree about walkers and climbers, from what I’ve seen and heard we are doing a great job of staying low-key and spreading out.
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Im working from home today, the difference in traffic is astonishing. You always get lorries thundering through (real bugbear round here, not the lorries but going into Stoney doing 60 to the kink where the moon is then hauling on the anchors) but at the moment few cars and no motorbikes. Nik your are right, it was mental yesterday, I wondered if it was orchestrated as there are very few cops in the PDNP and it seemed like a free for all by the sports bikes.
Anyway got out Saturday to clean a new route and bolt it, yesterday was so busy ended up climbing on my board as it seemed like less hassle.
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No comparison to the Peak - but around here (S Manchester) it seems quieter during rush hour than 2pm on Sat/Sun...
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The wife and I went to Stony Edge on Sunday - 3 mile walk in and out. Absolutely blissful to be out amongst the cotton grass, Swifts and Meadow Pippits and have the crag to ourselves! We both felt we climbed fairly well!
Lots of walkers on the Pennine Way mostly behaving well - one exception was a large family group who had no concept of what we trying to do when we stood on the verge to make space for them to pass...
Saw a team heading up to Blackstone Edge and top ropers in Cows Mouth but no other climbers. Some chalk on some problems at Stony...
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There do seem to be a lot of people out who look like maybe they're not used to it..
Met a couple with very shiny pads above Frodsham yesterday out on my run. Indoor converts? Pointed them in direction of the crag, hope they had a good time :)
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My wife is no stranger to a nice walk, but we tend to go out on nice sunny days and stop in a pub and it's all very civilised. One of my favourite feelings in the world is the feeling of all body fatigue, like you've had the shit kicked out of you, that you get after a day spent being battered by the wind on an exposed moor.
It was very windy yesterday. When we were driving home and the kids had fallen asleep she turned to me and said, "I feel completely fucked". So good to share that feeling with her.
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Same here - 6 miles carrying a big pad in high winds have my legs feeling a tad sore this morning!
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Lovely weekend out!
Saturday was a funny one - went to a fair few places before we found anywhere suitable to climb:
Stoney (busy since all routes start from the same place)
Beerhouse (seemingly banned?)
Craig y biceps (was uninspired)
Raven tor (dead except for yellow trouser man, put off climbing there due to comments on here)
Stoney again (still busy)
Arrived at Deep rake at 6PM to 4 parked cars! Luckily as we arrived 3 teams left.
Stanage yesterday and it was wonderful and dead.
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One of my favourite feelings in the world is the feeling of all body fatigue, like you've had the shit kicked out of you, that you get after a day spent being battered by the wind on an exposed moor.
It was very windy yesterday. When we were driving home and the kids had fallen asleep she turned to me and said, "I feel completely fucked". So good to share that feeling with her.
;D
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Whats peoples thoughts on virus transmission from using the same holds?
Bouldering especially, i can see it being less of an issue on routes that might only be climbed every few days.
Thought this thing lived on surfaces for days so this might be a bigger issue to overcome than the 2m social distancing.
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One of my favourite feelings in the world is the feeling of all body fatigue, like you've had the shit kicked out of you, that you get after a day spent being battered by the wind on an exposed moor.
It was very windy yesterday. When we were driving home and the kids had fallen asleep she turned to me and said, "I feel completely fucked". So good to share that feeling with her.
;D
Like going winter climbing with your spouse. You'll be the one driving home long after dark, eyes feeling like they've had sand in them, everything aching from head to toes, sipping strong coffee or over-caffeinated sugary drink company to stay awake while she snores gently in the passenger seat. Great feeling.
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Whats peoples thoughts on virus transmission from using the same holds?
Bouldering especially, i can see it being less of an issue on routes that might only be climbed every few days.
Thought this thing lived on surfaces for days so this might be a bigger issue to overcome than the 2m social distancing.
Lots of chat about this on other threads.
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Whats peoples thoughts on virus transmission from using the same holds?
Bouldering especially, i can see it being less of an issue on routes that might only be climbed every few days.
Thought this thing lived on surfaces for days so this might be a bigger issue to overcome than the 2m social distancing.
Thorough hand hygiene seems to be agreed approach. Before, during, after. otherwise, as per Tomtom, discussed at length elsewhere (can't remember where..)
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Scientific literature presents a mixed picture, with arguments ranging from uv light will kill it quickly to mucus-encased virus survives a long time.
If you want someone to tell you if it’s possible anything more precise than “dunno” is unsupported speculation.
Contact tracing literature is more optimistic since In MOST cases transmission can be tied to “close contact” - ie. being near an infected person for a reasonable amount of time.
You can’t rule out surface transmission based on that info, but you don’t NEED it to explain the infection.
One notable exception was a shopping centre in Korea where contact through elevator buttons was suspected.
There isn’t a single case of confirmed surface transmission outdoors to date. But most studies have been done during lockdowns when people weren’t outside much.
Executive summary. The risk is of unknown magnitude but almost certainly smaller than the chance you’d get it by chatting to the guy on a boulder 3m away for 10 minutes. Which, outdoors, is also small
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I’ve not managed to get out yet as my shoes & pads are all a 2hr drive away... Does anyone know the legality of picking them up?
We had to move at the start of lockdown as we couldn’t work from the boat we lived on. Unfortunately things like pads couldn’t fit in the car as we had to bring pretty much everything with us :(
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Provided you do star jumps as you're collecting your stuff you're golden.
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my shoes & pads are all a 2hr drive away... Does anyone know the legality of picking them up?
If you and the stuff is all in England I would just go pick them up. No limits on driving any more, and best to get them now before the next lockdown...
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Everything is in England. South Cumbria to Leeds.
Will make sure I do some walking and jumping close to the boat...
Going crazy not being able to pull onto the local rock. There’s a shite training traverse which looks right up my street for wasting away hour after hour...
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my shoes & pads are all a 2hr drive away... Does anyone know the legality of picking them up?
If you and the stuff is all in England I would just go pick them up. No limits on driving any more, and best to get them now before the next lockdown...
This isn't actually true. The restrictions are still in place. You can only leave home to work, get medical treatment/provide support to a vulnerable person, visit shops that are allowed to be open, or to exercise. You're allowed to drive if you're doing one of those things. Hence the importance of the star jumps.
(You'll be fine, James. Go and get your gear. But for God's sake do some burpees or something)
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Yeh sorry I meant no limit on driving distances (for exercise). Obviously you should have one of the excuses ready but the chances of getting stopped for Covid enforcement in England now are pretty close to zero I’d say.
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Beerhouse (seemingly banned?)
Nothing to that note on BMC RAD.
Just follow the approach on ukc that I updated and don't get caught crossing the track. It's only slow moving quarry freight a few times a day.
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I had a pretty good day out today at St Aldhelm’s head. Went there because locals on Portland seem unkeen on visitors in a lynch mob-esque kind of way. Climbed like total shit, failed to do anything and sliced my finger open, but was still awesome to be out and by the sea. Dorset coast is great.
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Oh my god it was so good to get out!! Went to Ban Y Gor for the eve, saw 2 other teams plus one leaving as we were walking in. Not quite the verge of tears a la lagers, but did feel a bit emotional after the first route for sure. Was weirdly nervous before leaving, sat on the sofa with heart pounding, thankfully faded as we drove over and turned out to be the perfect evening. Ro led her first routes 8 months to the day post ACL and MCL reconstruction too.
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Finally got out on the rock. After expecting weather to be crap I did a board session on Friday night , but Saturday morning was sunny and windy, so everything dried quickly. Wild and windy on the coast stunning day to be out, gulls everywhere, skylarks in the fields.
Warmed up on Tom Cox's Traverse, did Bad Buoys Sit (my traditional season opener), failed dramatically on Double Tap Eliminate (think a hold has gone) but it got too hot on the crimp. Went into the cave before it got too greasy out of the sun, did Pirouwet after remember what to do, and failed dramatically on Donny's Jangler traverse, too little stamina. Back in the bay, did Keystone Cops, but not a clue what to do on Keystone Arete (couldn't get off the ground!). Skin trashed and knackered home for lunch. Great to get out, psyched for projects.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBKYGatg7YI89Jqm4FfEfyLlyQNixplIE2cp6s0/