UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: mctrials23 on January 07, 2015, 02:37:41 pm
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Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors once the grade gets up to about V7. Below that I can generally muscle and lank my way through the moves if they are awkward but on harder stuff and on a 50 degree board I really struggle.
I'm 6'2" and weight about 13.5 stone and very little of that is fat so I can't get any lighter without just dropping muscle.
I tend to struggle on moves that have feet that are very close to my hands and I don't feel like I can get any power put down on the feet or hands (usually one or the other and usually it requires a transition between the two). I find this especially apparent on the 50 degree board and on overhanging routes of a certain grade that are set in a compact manner.
Logically speaking I don't understand how I can overcome this because on a big enough overhang, you have to be pulling down or back on the holds to be able to get purchase on them. Once your feet get high enough that pushes the rest of the body higher and suddenly that crimp that was ok has turned into a slopey crimp and I don't have enough on it to make the next move.
I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move. Any tall climbers or people in the know have any advice as to how I can overcome this. I know I need to practice this as its an obvious weakness but its one of those issues that I don't even have a chance to try hard on it because I just peel off.
Slopers are a weakness but at least when I fall off them I have tried really hard to hold them and its a lack of strength that is holding me back.
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Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors
:lol:
very good
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sounds like it's time to learn to milk egyptians and drop-knees for all they're worth
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Sounds like it could potentially be a hip/hamstring/leg flexibility issue if you are struggling to put power through your feet on high footholds.
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Thoughts:
- Uncomfortably high feet on steep boards often means flicking/jumping through the move due to it being hard to get weight through the foot, especially if the foot is bad. Are you trying to be too in control?
- Flexibility. Also, on a 50 degree I often am more out than up to make room for a high foot - are you pulling up high when you don't need to?
- At 13.5 stone I'd back losing muscle to be worth it. Especially if you route climb.
- Do the move off low feet as a jump
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I have to say I admire mc's restraint in not just moaning about the setting being unfair on the tall.
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I am pretty much exclusively a boulderer and I don't want to end up a skinny runt so losing weight is something I will probably never do. I have quite strong legs from years of hockey but they never seem to shrink no matter how much of a sloth I am outside of climbing.
With regards to drop knees, I am fine using them normally but on a route recently where all the shorties were sticking in two drop knees I simply couldn't fit my body into the position to lock it in at all.
I do tend to try and be quite in control when I boulder but I guess on the 50 degree board that isn't always possible. I just don't like the idea of chucking my not insubstantial weight about on awkward tiny crimps. I have just injured my ring finger mucking about on it and I don't think I was doing anything particularly stupid.
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I have to say I admire mc's restraint in not just moaning about the setting being unfair on the tall.
I was getting to that bit but thought I would save it for later!
Honestly, there are so many climbs at the arch and there are other things to work on that 5 problems that don't suit me are never going to be a big deal. Admittedly since we have just had christmas and the new year, the same stuff has been up for over a month now so its getting a little frustrating but thats just me being a whiny bitch. With my buggered finger its also a blessing in disguise that there are no new sets to work on.
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Work core muscles? Key for getting power through feet?
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I was wondering which wall you meant. I climb there a lot, not as tall as you (~ 6') so don't maybe have the same issues.
'I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move.'
Out of interest which circuits/problems do you find particularly bad?
I'm finding all the taped problems on the 50º nails, so have just been using any feet while i work them.
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Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors once the grade gets up to about V7. Below that I can generally muscle and lank my way through the moves if they are awkward but on harder stuff and on a 50 degree board I really struggle.
I'm 6'2" and weight about 13.5 stone and very little of that is fat so I can't get any lighter without just dropping muscle.
I tend to struggle on moves that have feet that are very close to my hands and I don't feel like I can get any power put down on the feet or hands (usually one or the other and usually it requires a transition between the two). I find this especially apparent on the 50 degree board and on overhanging routes of a certain grade that are set in a compact manner.
Logically speaking I don't understand how I can overcome this because on a big enough overhang, you have to be pulling down or back on the holds to be able to get purchase on them. Once your feet get high enough that pushes the rest of the body higher and suddenly that crimp that was ok has turned into a slopey crimp and I don't have enough on it to make the next move.
I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move. Any tall climbers or people in the know have any advice as to how I can overcome this. I know I need to practice this as its an obvious weakness but its one of those issues that I don't even have a chance to try hard on it because I just peel off.
Slopers are a weakness but at least when I fall off them I have tried really hard to hold them and its a lack of strength that is holding me back.
I'd do more climbing outside.
Most of the people with good technique inside have good technique developed on real rock.
In my experience it's much harder to learn and develop technique on plastic than rock.
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Lately I've found that I hit a bit of a wall when climbing indoors once the grade gets up to about V7. Below that I can generally muscle and lank my way through the moves
hi, i'm as tall and just over 80 kg, and i know the problem.
my tip would be to go down a few grades and try to do the problems without "lanking".
try to use the high footholds, learn to fold yourself in between the holds.
try to do the moves as they were meant to be done by the setters, the way short people have to do them. if the setters are any good, those movement skills will carry through.
that's what i'm doing.
i still always try to figure out what's the easiest way up, or how many holds i can skip, but i also try to use all the footholds etc.
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I was wondering which wall you meant. I climb there a lot, not as tall as you (~ 6') so don't maybe have the same issues.
'I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move.'
Out of interest which circuits/problems do you find particularly bad?
I'm finding all the taped problems on the 50º nails, so have just been using any feet while i work them.
Its usually a bit of stuff on the competition wall and 50 degree board but there are quite often some of the greens that fit into that category as well. I don't know if this means anything to you but there is a wooden beastmaker/scarpa holds one on the centre of the comp wall that has a sidepull/undercling just above a volume with the foot on it and I just can't seem to get any tension between the holds as they are about a foot away from each other on an overhang.
There is no suggestion of grades on the 50 degree board so it may just be that what I am trying is harder than I give it credit for. I cant remember what tag colours they are but the ones I have been having a go at are the ones with white, blue and tiger coloured holds.
my tip would be to go down a few grades and try to do the problems without "lanking".
try to use the high footholds, learn to fold yourself in between the holds.
try to do the moves as they were meant to be done by the setters, the way short people have to do them. if the setters are any good, those movement skills will carry through.
Thats probably a good idea thinking about it. There are quite a few problems of a lower grade that I just miss out a tricky rockover or bypass the sequence to make it as easy as possible and that is probably not doing me any favours.
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Indoor problems by and large up to 7a require either technique or strength/power, above that they require strength/power and technique.
Climbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you technique, take the arete on Joe's slab, I've seen people who climb into the high 7's indoors be totally shut down on it and there are plenty more 'bags to enjoy.
The simple answer is go outside and climb on vertical and slabby roack, aretes and so on.
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Yeah i know the one you mean, haven't seen anyone get on very well with it though.
The taped problems feel like they start at V8ish to me.
finbarrs suggestion sounds useful for you!
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Sloper - the technique that will get you up Joe's slab ain't worth shit on a 50 board, in the same way that climbing slabs will not necessarily make you good at the techniques involved in climbing 50 degree tufas.
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Perhaps I am stating the obvious (sorry), but you could try replicating easier versions of the problems you are having a hard time with and slowly make the moves harder. E.g. if there are other footholds nearby that make the problem easier while still replicate the same moves try those and gradually move towards the actual feet.
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Climbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you technique
One of the stupider things i've read on the internet.
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quote author=Three Nine link=topic=25251.msg471328#msg471328 date=1420670432]
Climbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you technique
One of the stupider things i've read on the internet.
Sloper - the technique that will get you up Joe's slab ain't worth shit on a 50 board, in the same way that climbing slabs will not necessarily make you good at the techniques involved in climbing 50 degree tufas.
[/quote]
My thoughts exactly. There isn't some golden climbing technique grail which works for everything, various techniques and styles suit different angles, rock types and so on. Sloper's advice may not be bad, depends on what your goals are though.
Climbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you technique
One of the stupider things i've read on the internet.
You don't look at facebook much these days then?
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I can't decide whether technique indoors is harder or easier than outdoors in some respects. Indoors you have potentially 4 points of contact in 4 specific locations usually. There isn't usually an option to use a worse foothold that is more comfortable for your size or strengths. You may have the choice of 20 foot placements on a real boulder when you only have a few choices on where to place your foot on an indoor hold.
You obviously have the variable of body position etc but when a move stumps you indoors you sometimes have no choice but to man up and have a go.
Anyway, thanks for all the advice guys. I will be doing the following to try and get better at these sorts of compact movements.
1. Making sure I do problems in the manner a shorter climber would have to rather than lanking it.
2. Identify positions and moves that I find hard on higher grade problems and replicate them on an easier climb to try and figure out how to overcome them.
3. Work to be more dynamic on the 50 degree board and see about hanging further from the hand holds to give my body more room to work with.
4. Add in extra footholds at a more comfortable height on the 50 degree board in order to make the transition into using the ones close to the hand holds. Hopefully this will mean I can get stronger on these moves instead of just slipping off them with a whimper.
5. Tell Yann Genoix to stop setting short man problems
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I can't decide whether technique indoors is harder or easier than outdoors in some respects. Indoors you have potentially 4 points of contact in 4 specific locations usually. There isn't usually an option to use a worse foothold that is more comfortable for your size or strengths. You may have the choice of 20 foot placements on a real boulder when you only have a few choices on where to place your foot on an indoor hold.
Agree. On rock you often have far more potentially viable foot options than handholds.
A couple of my local walls set some problems with defined handholds and free use of lots of small screw-on chips for feet. I find this a good idea, both in terms of finding the right foot positions and the body tension required to use them effectively.
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Climbing indoors generally will give you strength and power but rarely will it give you technique
One of the stupider things i've read on the internet.
www.dailymail.com (http://www.dailymail.com)
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Sloper - the technique that will get you up Joe's slab ain't worth shit on a 50 board, in the same way that climbing slabs will not necessarily make you good at the techniques involved in climbing 50 degree tufas.
<other problems are available>
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My point extends beyond that specific problem.
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Sloper - the technique that will get you up Joe's slab ain't worth shit on a 50 board, in the same way that climbing slabs will not necessarily make you good at the techniques involved in climbing 50 degree tufas.
<other problems are available>
Donny, you're out of your element (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ks072waMayk#)
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Luckily for Sloper he is unlikely to encounter any 50 degree tufas on his local crags, should he decide to apply his indoor 'training' outside. Whereas technical aretes are quite common. Which also goes for 99% of other British climbers...
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JB you'll notice that the title of the thread is 'indoor technique' not 'technique'!
(http://hotmeme.net/media/i/6/9/usn-its-useless-you-have-no-power-here.jpg)
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You've let that beard go Stubbs. It was quite trim last time I saw you. And maybe cut down on rolling in the chalk.
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Unfortunately 50 degree boards are going to feel nails at 13.5 stone. I've got nothing further to add other than keep plugging away!
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I'm getting tired of seeing loads of stuff that is around the grade I am working on but isn't worth trying because I won't get near a certain move. Any tall climbers or people in the know have any advice as to how I can overcome this.
MTFU or take up rowing?
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I'm 6:3 and a bit lighter (11.5) and to me this sounds like a problem setting issue... have you tried the harder problems? Sometimes these are of a different 'type' of problem and can be easier... That said you have what is set to play with - and winging about problems when you're tall gets short shrift from the sub normal height minority ;)
Nowt wrong with lanking stuff - but the hobbits revenge is when you have to do some minging sit start crouched up high foot shite.. I think I mentioned this in Wills post, but I try and look at this as a challenge ~ try and devise new ways to shoehorn my frame into the right position to do a move. This often involves doing stuff side on, maybe using a different foot, big flags.... It used to piss me off - but I try and see this as a challenge now. (well not now, I'm crocked.. but you know what i mean..)
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How are you so light when you are taller than me! I'm not exactly massive.
You are right though. Complaining about short man problems to anyone who isn't tall is pointless because to them, everything is easier when you are 4 inches taller than them and 3 stone heavier.
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How are you so light when you are taller than me! I'm not exactly massive.
You are right though. Complaining about short man problems to anyone who isn't tall is pointless because to them, everything is easier when you are 4 inches taller than them and 3 stone heavier.
My gran described my legs as 'knots on cotton'...
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totally agree with trying to find harder problems/ones that may be lankable (I'm 6'2" as well)
personally I find that there is almost always a way to lank something and usually search for ways.
Also scrawny chicken legs are the way forward (or upward) for climbing.
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I haven't got monstrous legs but I haven't played hockey for nearly 3 years and they are still pretty chunky. How much do you weigh Dexter?
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I had years of rowing and cycling behind me when I took up climbing (hence the username), and their hamlike legacies are still with me years on, though I have continued to run, hike, ski etc alongside the climbing.
For the last 18 months I've done almost no non-climbing exercise and I've finally started to get legs that look more normal size, but even then I still have to try the 'soccer fit' when buying fancy jeans.
To link this back to the topic, I'm 6'1" and currently at under 13 stone. This makes most things feel hard and is at the top end of my weight range. At 12-7 I find climbing easier on small holds and steeper ground, but at 11-7 something magic happens. My footwork, movement, timing and everything else becomes significantly better. It doesn't just feel like my power-to-weight is better, but like my technique suddenly unlocks dramatically. Unfortunately I can't live for long there without getting ill or run down.
There's absolutely no doubt that getting to that weight involves losing a lot of muscle, but it does impact on technique, both indoors and out.
You're climbing harder than me, so I'm not sure I can add much more regarding specific techniques other than to say that I broke through a plateau of my own a while back by learning to climb much more dynamically and with much more awareness of 'leading with the hips'. When you're a big guy, your arse/thighs need to be first up - 60% of the time, it works.... etc
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My aim is to get to just under 13 stone without losing much if any muscle. Its a weird one really. Jan Hojer is about the same height as me but weighs in the mid 12 stone area I think. I would say I'm bigger than him in most areas apart from back yet he is an absolute monster when it comes to pulling hard (I don't mean finger strength related either).
I imagine that a lot of that strength comes from his back and being a stone lighter makes all the difference too but his height and weight would be ideal for me. I was hanging on the one finger pockets on the bottom of the beastmaker 2000 last night and I had bruising / blood under the skin from the pressure.
As others have touched on though, there is always a trade off when you get to the limits of what is healthy. I find that when I don't eat enough it really affects my energy levels and it doesn't make me lose much weight either. Now if I could ditch one of these pesky legs ....
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a stone isn't that much, it won't turn you from strong punter into total beast.
i can 1-5-8 at my actual weight (9 stone and a bit) and can 1-4-7 if i add an extra stone of ballast (which is how I'm currently training).
what's that in grade difference, about a plus grade?
maybe it'd be different for you though
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Makes a big difference to me. A stone is a lot!
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Makes a big difference to me. A stone is a lot!
how much of a difference?
like 8a to 8c difference? does your weight loss coincide with when you are training more? if so, how can you compare, or are you copmparing trying moves with and without added weight, rather than getting leaner?
hope that doesn't come across as snippy, am genuinely interested.
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I'm interested too - as its a toughy to correlate. Often when you are at your best (in your best shape) you are probably also lightest.. So disentangling the two is tricky. Obviously it makes a difference in the power to weight stakes, but does the 5% change really matter over other factors (ie connies?)
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Makes a big difference to me. A stone is a lot!
how much of a difference?
like 8a to 8c difference? does your weight loss coincide with when you are training more? if so, how can you compare, or are you copmparing trying moves with and without added weight, rather than getting leaner?
hope that doesn't come across as snippy, am genuinely interested.
No not 8a to 8c, that's ridiculous. I would say a couple of bouldering grades though. No weight loss happens in summer when I'm training much less. I'm very up and down regardless of weight but it does make a big difference. I'm on the board right now struggling to do medium difficulty problems that I would never normally drop. God damn you Christmas!
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If you've never been 12 stone or above it maybe be hard to appreciate!
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If you've never been 12 stone or above it maybe be hard to appreciate!
haha
I've been (without having a weight belt on) up to about 10 1/2 stone in the past, but was really strong for it, finally ending both my kyloe sieges in the same session (hitchhikers ss and yorkshireman ss).
I've felt really light when being light (if that doesn't sound too stupid and obvious), but never really strong when I've been light
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Makes a big difference to me. A stone is a lot!
how much of a difference?
like 8a to 8c difference? does your weight loss coincide with when you are training more? if so, how can you compare, or are you copmparing trying moves with and without added weight, rather than getting leaner?
hope that doesn't come across as snippy, am genuinely interested.
No not 8a to 8c, that's ridiculous. I would say a couple of bouldering grades though. No weight loss happens in summer when I'm training much less. I'm very up and down regardless of weight but it does make a big difference. I'm on the board right now struggling to do medium difficulty problems that I would never normally drop. God damn you Christmas!
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You can do panton in a blender chris lol
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10 and a half stone is still light. I don't go lower than 11. Respect to Hojer and Webb (although i noticed Webb gave Lucid Dreaming a wide berth when in Bishop!).
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You can do panton in a blender chris lol
Haha Wyatt. I did it before I went to America but I would struggle now.
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10 and a half stone is still light. I don't go lower than 11. Respect to Hojer and Webb (although i noticed Webb gave Lucid Dreaming a wide berth when in Bishop!).
I'm only 5 foot 6 with zero ape index, which I'm pretty sure is less than Mina's ;)
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I haven't got monstrous legs but I haven't played hockey for nearly 3 years and they are still pretty chunky. How much do you weigh Dexter?
About 11 to 11.5 stone.
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I'm not sure how relevant an extra stone is to a person who is much shorter than me and when that extra stone takes them to 10.5 stone instead of 13.5 stone.
The holds don't get proportionally bigger the taller and heavier you get though the forces you have to apply with longer limbs do. There comes a point with certain types of hold and certain styles of boulder where the holds are so bad that any mechanical disadvantage or excess weight makes it magnitudes harder to make the moves.
I know that proportionally, 1 stone is more of the whole for someone who is 9.5 stone than someone who is 12.5 stone but instead of it making something a big harder, it makes it a lot lot harder.
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I know that proportionally, 1 stone is more of the whole for someone who is 9.5 stone than someone who is 12.5 stone but instead of it making something a big harder, it makes it a lot lot harder.
what a shit excuse, anyone who thinks that needs to train much harder
I'm going to resort to blaming my lack of reach in future, since there is nothing i can do about that, much as you can't do anything about your limb length
I'm not sure how relevant an extra stone is to a person who is much shorter than me and when that extra stone takes them to 10.5 stone instead of 13.5 stone.
it's clearly not relevant at all, everyone knows that a shorty stone weighs less than a tally stone :jab:
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I don't think I explained that very well obviously as I seem to have hit a nerve so apologies. My point is that on really un-positive holds as you add more weight it doesn't become 10% harder for 10% more weight.
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No it becomes harder if you can't use them.
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I think you explained it fine
it just seems that you were implying that somehow an extra stone has less of an impact to a short person due to lever length, which is frankly bizarre, since a 10% increase in load, requires a 10% increase in force to perform the same basic task (like a one-armer), regardless of lever length
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I think you explained it fine
it just seems that you were implying that somehow an extra stone has less of an impact to a short person due to lever length, which is frankly bizarre, since a 10% increase in load, requires a 10% increase in force to perform the same basic task (like a one-armer), regardless of lever length
Ah but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage.
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how much of a difference?
To me this depends on steepness. I notice very little difference from an extra stone or so on anything up to 10 degrees or so, any steeper than 20 deg and my grade goes through the floor.
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Ah but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage.
What, the actual fuck are you on about
a 10% increase in strength/force is required by both parties, but only if they are each increasing the load by 10% in the first place.
we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines, we all have differing attachment points that affect how strong our muscles have to be in the first place, but regardless of this, or lever length a 10% increase in load still requires a 10% increase in force
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I know this is slightly outside the ranges being discussed, but, as I lose weight, the change in belly size/shape has quite an effect on my ability to bunch up and high step - it also makes a big difference to barn-door stuff. At one point it was noticable that I couldn't bend or bunch without making it hard to breath. Campussing stuff was fine (just took effort). even a basic drop knee seemed awkward
Currently my circumference around my gut is 39" and I shall be monitoring it as I try to drive myself down from my Xmas XXL to (hopefully) below the magic 14st mark - at which point I expect to feel like grade whoring is on the cards.
there is no point in me going on a 50 deg board
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how much of a difference?
To me this depends on steepness. I notice very little difference from an extra stone or so on anything up to 10 degrees or so, any steeper than 20 deg and my grade goes through the floor.
This is despite being a Langster. :whistle:
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Ah but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage.
What, the actual fuck are you on about
a 10% increase in strength/force is required by both parties, but only if they are each increasing the load by 10% in the first place.
we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines, we all have differing attachment points that affect how strong our muscles have to be in the first place, but regardless of this, or lever length a 10% increase in load still requires a 10% increase in force
I think I see what you're trying to say, but it looks to me as though you're using the wrong words. Someone with longer levers does require more force; it's the amount of work that stays the same (assuming no difference in weight).
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Ah but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage.
What, the actual fuck are you on about
a 10% increase in strength/force is required by both parties, but only if they are each increasing the load by 10% in the first place.
we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines, we all have differing attachment points that affect how strong our muscles have to be in the first place, but regardless of this, or lever length a 10% increase in load still requires a 10% increase in force
I think I see what you're trying to say, but it looks to me as though you're using the wrong words. Someone with longer levers does require more force; it's the amount of work that stays the same (assuming no difference in weight).
i know that they would require more force than someone with shorter levers, my original point was that a percentage 10% increase would be just that, a 10% increase, for both parties, regardless of lever length.
the next problem with this part of the :offtopic: discussion, would be the assumtion that the person with the longer levers attachment points are in the same place as the shorties, otherwise the force required by the muscle of the tall-arse may not actually require more force, which is why i never wanted to get in to discussing moments, etc. etc. etc. becase it's just a further deviation from the original topic
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Ah yes, that makes more sense on re-reading. As you were, gents.
:off:
... sorry, can't resist one last bit of geekery. I reckon that as climbers get taller, even if the attachment points scale proportionately, the taller climber will lose out because the load will be scaling as approximately height^3 (length to volume).
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Ah yes, that makes more sense on re-reading. As you were, gents.
:off:
... sorry, can't resist one last bit of geekery. I reckon that as climbers get taller, even if the attachment points scale proportionately, the taller climber will lose out because the load will be scaling as approximately height^3 (length to volume).
You'll have to draw me a picture for that one
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he means weight is proportional to volume (cubic units), whereas sizes of body parts are proportional to area (squared units) or only one dimension (length, height)
you dig?
thus it is proved that being short is sooooo much easier and God is a white male with a beard
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:agree:
I haven't read it thoroughly, but this seems like a good précis of the idea: http://galileo.phys.virginia.edu/classes/304/scaling.pdf (http://galileo.phys.virginia.edu/classes/304/scaling.pdf)
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I gots you. No need for a picture. I thought it was some reference to the way a muscle works. That's what I get for reading in the drizzle.
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that's just fuel for the "I'm big boned" brigade
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he means weight is proportional to volume (cubic units), whereas sizes of body parts are proportional to area (squared units) or only one dimension (length, height)
you dig?
thus it is proved that being short is sooooo much easier and God is a white male with a beard
Ahh... But that assumes that volume increases all dimensions equally with increased size - whereas skinny streaks of piss like myself may have similar volume but be longer and thinner...
But let the poor little hobbits think they're better ;) and God is a white male with a top knot nowadays silly.
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The heavier you are the harder it is. End.
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But that assumes that volume increases all dimensions equally with increased size -
no it doesn't
if dimensions increase at all in more than just one direction, then weight increases disproportionately to height
so One Direction are probably the ideal size for climbing hard - even more so than Tomtom
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But that assumes that volume increases all dimensions equally with increased size -
no it doesn't
if dimensions increase at all in more than just one direction, then weight increases disproportionately to height
so One Direction are probably the ideal size for climbing hard - even more so than Tomtom
Ok Louis, but dimensions don't have to increase in more than wand erection... Non?
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1st input -
I'm 6'2" and weight about 13.5 stone and very little of that is fat so I can't get any lighter without just dropping muscle.
I'm 5'10" and weight between 12-12.5 stone (167-175lbs). I grew up playing soccer, and have very robust legs as well and generally not alot of fat, but plenty to lose. The lowest weight I've had in the last 4 years is very briefly 165lbs, and even then I could tell that losing additional weight for me would continue to improve my climbing. I'd be willing to argue that for any climber with a BMI below 20, weight loss should not be a primary goal. For those over abour 24, it will likely significantly imrpove your climbing. between 20-24 it would depend on your personal strengths/weaknesses.
I tend to struggle on moves that have feet that are very close to my hands and I don't feel like I can get any power put down on the feet or hands (usually one or the other and usually it requires a transition between the two). I find this especially apparent on the 50 degree board and on overhanging routes of a certain grade that are set in a compact manner.
Logically speaking I don't understand how I can overcome this because on a big enough overhang, you have to be pulling down or back on the holds to be able to get purchase on them. Once your feet get high enough that pushes the rest of the body higher and suddenly that crimp that was ok has turned into a slopey crimp and I don't have enough on it to make the next move.
This is indeed a strength, technique and flexibility issue. Taller people as a result of being more able to lank develop slightly different techniques than shorter people. This is not "easier" or "harder" just different. What you're referring to is a technique and strength shorties have to learn from nearly day 1 in climbing and lanksters can skip and may have to learn later. In my experience, shorties also tend to be more bendy than tallies. I can assure you that with a strong enough core and enough flexibility, you can work with those holds. Work on obliques, triceps, and felxibility.
Tight body compression and tension is a funky technique and is hard for me to learn. I don't like it, I'm relatively poor at it, and yes it's harder if you've got big legs as they tend to be both less flexy, and heavier making this type of problem generally feel much harder. It may be proportionately harder for you than a problem you can lank, but that's an ego issue you have to get through, or not if you don't care for that style.
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Ok Louis, but dimensions don't have to increase in more than wand erection... Non?
they don't have to, but they usually do in order to retain structural integrity, blood supply and to make clothes fit properly
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Ok Louis, but dimensions don't have to increase in more than wand erection... Non?
they don't have to, but they usually do in order to retain structural integrity, blood supply and to make clothes fit properly
I wore some Ron hills once in the early 90's and I was laughed at because they were baggy :-/
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I wore some Ron hills once in the early 90's and I was laughed at because they were baggy :-/
I once met Gandhi, he said "f'king 'ell you've got thin legs"! I've given up using a head-torch at site inspections - got fed up with being mistaken for an anglepoise lamp.
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This is indeed a strength, technique and flexibility issue. Taller people as a result of being more able to lank develop slightly different techniques than shorter people. This is not "easier" or "harder" just different. What you're referring to is a technique and strength shorties have to learn from nearly day 1 in climbing and lanksters can skip and may have to learn later. In my experience, shorties also tend to be more bendy than tallies. I can assure you that with a strong enough core and enough flexibility, you can work with those holds. Work on obliques, triceps, and felxibility.
Well said! :clap2: The real secret is to be moderate height, then you can complain all the shorty problems are too scrunchy and all the lank problems are too lanky! :punk:
In the end I definitely get more return by isolating what I suck at and working on it. The other plus is that projecting your anti-style (read shortie's warm-up) helps kill the ego.
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I had a session yesterday after 5 days off and I was being as careful as I could after injuring the A2 on my ring finger. I don't know if it was just a new set that suited me but I really enjoyed the session and everything felt better because I was concentrating more on my feet and technique to avoid pissing off the finger. Seems like there might be some merit to this technique malarkey after all. I didn't do anything overly hard but it was very apparent when I really focussed on my body position and foot position that the hands took much less abuse.
Doing that also seemed to lead to better employment of the feet and core on the harder stuff. I think sometimes I never quite get the core fully warmed up and this makes harder routes feel more nails than they should.
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we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines
;D
Only just seen this! Made me laugh! I take it as a compliment!
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we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines
;D
Only just seen this! Made me laugh! I take it as a compliment!
It is intended as one :)
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/12/4dc2c992cbf786ee6da474599abcbeb8.jpg)
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:2thumbsup:
Brilliant!
I'm printing it!
Viva l'Italia!