I know that proportionally, 1 stone is more of the whole for someone who is 9.5 stone than someone who is 12.5 stone but instead of it making something a big harder, it makes it a lot lot harder.
I'm not sure how relevant an extra stone is to a person who is much shorter than me and when that extra stone takes them to 10.5 stone instead of 13.5 stone.
I think you explained it fineit just seems that you were implying that somehow an extra stone has less of an impact to a short person due to lever length, which is frankly bizarre, since a 10% increase in load, requires a 10% increase in force to perform the same basic task (like a one-armer), regardless of lever length
how much of a difference?
Ah but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage.
Quote from: rodma on January 09, 2015, 02:23:11 pmhow much of a difference?To me this depends on steepness. I notice very little difference from an extra stone or so on anything up to 10 degrees or so, any steeper than 20 deg and my grade goes through the floor.
Quote from: Dexter on January 09, 2015, 03:51:54 pmAh but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage. What, the actual fuck are you on abouta 10% increase in strength/force is required by both parties, but only if they are each increasing the load by 10% in the first place.we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines, we all have differing attachment points that affect how strong our muscles have to be in the first place, but regardless of this, or lever length a 10% increase in load still requires a 10% increase in force
Quote from: rodma on January 09, 2015, 03:58:57 pmQuote from: Dexter on January 09, 2015, 03:51:54 pmAh but its about moments not forces, if someone has double the leverage then a 10% increase in load results in double to moment for someone with double the leverage. What, the actual fuck are you on abouta 10% increase in strength/force is required by both parties, but only if they are each increasing the load by 10% in the first place.we are not (with the exception of Nibs) machines, we all have differing attachment points that affect how strong our muscles have to be in the first place, but regardless of this, or lever length a 10% increase in load still requires a 10% increase in forceI think I see what you're trying to say, but it looks to me as though you're using the wrong words. Someone with longer levers does require more force; it's the amount of work that stays the same (assuming no difference in weight).
Ah yes, that makes more sense on re-reading. As you were, gents. ... sorry, can't resist one last bit of geekery. I reckon that as climbers get taller, even if the attachment points scale proportionately, the taller climber will lose out because the load will be scaling as approximately height^3 (length to volume).
he means weight is proportional to volume (cubic units), whereas sizes of body parts are proportional to area (squared units) or only one dimension (length, height)you dig?thus it is proved that being short is sooooo much easier and God is a white male with a beard
But that assumes that volume increases all dimensions equally with increased size -
Quote from: tomtom on January 09, 2015, 07:23:09 pmBut that assumes that volume increases all dimensions equally with increased size -no it doesn'tif dimensions increase at all in more than just one direction, then weight increases disproportionately to heightso One Direction are probably the ideal size for climbing hard - even more so than Tomtom
I'm 6'2" and weight about 13.5 stone and very little of that is fat so I can't get any lighter without just dropping muscle.
I tend to struggle on moves that have feet that are very close to my hands and I don't feel like I can get any power put down on the feet or hands (usually one or the other and usually it requires a transition between the two). I find this especially apparent on the 50 degree board and on overhanging routes of a certain grade that are set in a compact manner. Logically speaking I don't understand how I can overcome this because on a big enough overhang, you have to be pulling down or back on the holds to be able to get purchase on them. Once your feet get high enough that pushes the rest of the body higher and suddenly that crimp that was ok has turned into a slopey crimp and I don't have enough on it to make the next move.
Ok Louis, but dimensions don't have to increase in more than wand erection... Non?
Quote from: tomtom on January 09, 2015, 09:27:05 pmOk Louis, but dimensions don't have to increase in more than wand erection... Non?they don't have to, but they usually do in order to retain structural integrity, blood supply and to make clothes fit properly