UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: rainbow on November 28, 2009, 11:37:35 am
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Well the Roaches Guide is out, and it looks great. All area's have been tweaked. Wright's is now bang up to date and the problems are now clear where they start and finish (and whats in/out of the eliminate type of problems). I've worked closely with Grimer on this section. All the stuff in that old thread is either in guide, or the download guide which I've put the link below. One of the reasons for the download is to reduce the traffic on said blocks as they are on softer rock than they're neighbours. (We're thinking long term here) Was thinking of using this thread for info, questions and repeats from now and in furture.
Here's the link
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=523 (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=523)
New from Oct 2009
1) Slow Worm, F7b+, Gentleman's FA Dave Parkin Oct 2009. The full version of Limp Lizard. (Basically links the sit start V3 into the standing start of Limp Lizard.) Very Morpho so grade is between 7a to 7c. Pic below shows line of Limp Lizard, the link up is from down and slightly left.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/IMG_5732.jpg?t=1259406764)
The Future is out there!!
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Nice one and good effort with the topo. I've since done a lot of the stuff that you've reported in recent years and can recommend pretty much all of it to other visitors, but echo your comments about making sure these more esoteric blocks are dry before climbing on them. There are some very soft bits of rock in the dale.
Thanks again for your efforts (and those of your mates) in providing more stuff to boulder on down there.
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Is strapping a lantern to the forehead a new fashion for the winter?
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Thats just an old school head torch from waaaaaay back.
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Is strapping a lantern to the forehead a new fashion for the winter?
Looks like he needs to keep his head tilted back to keep the lamp on. Maybe not that good for walking with but fine for peering upwards at stuff.
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Yeah, strap must be adjustable. Looks to be set at the perfect angle for climbing that problem right now though.
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You get some quite funny pics in the dark, with the trick of light en all. As mentioned somewhere on here earlier in week, Bizarre, me being a dumb ass forgot to regrade this, :guilty: Everyone go a get some tipex. Are we thinking 7b for this?? Still haven't tried using the holds out right yet. Maybe easier harder this way. Grimer also did some detective work and got the proper info regarding war child and the tyler (The Eliminate Prob) Wright's. Seems War Child has had two known repeats and the rules on Tyler have been revised as per first ascent. So I need to do it again. :-\ Was hoping to get out that way tomorrow but the weather's none too good. So it the Works again :great: :thumbsup:
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As Ben said, cheers for all your work discovering problems, fixing holds and publicising what is a very good area. I've enjoyed discovering quality problems there over the past couple of years, and will return again (when things dry out!)
Re: bizarre I wouldn't argue with 7b or 7c. It is reachy and you need strong fingers so is easier for the tall and beastmaker trained..... It was my first "7c" which may say a lot, but I have since climbed other ones that I found easier, but that's grades for you.
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Bizarre ..... It was my first "7c", but I have since climbed other ones that I found easier
Such as?
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Such as?
One move wonder eliminates on the Kudos wall and at Raven Tor. That probably says a lot about my climbing (i.e. unable to climb hard problems that involve linking moves :shrug:). Basically I went back to Bizarre after I'd done it, having climbed about 6 or 7 more 7c's in Font, the Peak and Swiss, and still found it hard. Other 7c's I've returned to I've been able to repeat quickly and relatively easily. Not the case with Bizarre for some reason.
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Basically I went back to Bizarre after I'd done it, having climbed about 6 or 7 more 7c's in Font, the Peak and Swiss, and still found it hard. Other 7c's I've returned to I've been able to repeat quickly and relatively easily. Not the case with Bizarre for some reason.
Thats bizarre! :P
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Ive done Bizzare (using pebbles out right) but I struggle with everything on that damned Kudos wall!
Took me 9 sessions and deffo the hardest thing ive climbed... so I vote 7c ::)
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I had an amazing day out with the Scousers yesterday at the Churnet. The new guide has some quite good new problems. Unfortunately a was scabbing a look at Ben's copy so details may be hazy. I will def be getting a copy!
Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.
While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress.
The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?
The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.
Cheers Andy for the names and i think you need to set the bar a bit higher in your bouldering!!
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joelm there are no one move 7c's on kudos wall and the only one at the tor is undercuts to sloper.
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There are four on the Kudos wall, aren't there? Kudos Original (rockover on polished smear), Johnny G 7c, The Pinch, Ned's Problem (Pinch hold to Press jug).
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Nice one Mike for reporting the new Churnet stuff from the other day. Worth getting out in the public domain. I too can confirm the quality of much of the new stuff like Breathe and its gnarly sitstart. All the "new" problems listed in the Gentlemens topo in the new BMC guide are also very good; the mono problem and the one right of the fifty pence problem being especially enjoyable.
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There are four on the Kudos wall, aren't there? Kudos Original (rockover on polished smear), Johnny G 7c, The Pinch, Ned's Problem (Pinch hold to Press jug).
Only 2 of them are actually only 1 move though, and if neds prob is 7c than the pinch is at least a grade easier. for that matter, undercuts to sloper at the tor isn't one move either.
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yeh saying undercuts to sloper was one move kept me awake for a bit last night, its not really. re kudos wall, only 2 of them are 1 move tho, but only one of them is 7c ie not kudos. don't know what johnny g and the pinch or neds problem are. what i would presume to be the pinch, ie the one move 7c that very few people have done i didn't count since its about 8 grades harder than bizarre. disclaimer i've not been anywhere near bizarre but have been reliably informed by different people that its not 7c
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don't know what johnny g and the pinch or neds problem are.
johnny g is the standup start version of bigger belly (genuine 7c but not 1 move). pinch is the pinch as you guessed (me and banks have done this), and neds problem is that same pinchey sloper start hold to the press finishing jug.
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joelm there are no one move 7c's on kudos wall and the only one at the tor is undercuts to sloper/quote]
The pinch problem and undercuts to sloper are the problems I meant.
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Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.
While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress.
The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?
The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.
Impressive stuff indeed. Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper. A Brilliant Addition. The variation on HSIA also to my knowledge hadn't been done either. Very brave to pull on those mono's at that height. Glad you liked Breathe. In retrospect maybe its better from a sitter, as it turns itself into a full problem rather than a two move wonder?
Condition wise, great friction today, and not really effected by snow due to the angle of most things. Hope this weather last till next week.
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Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper.
Yeah, that's what he meant. ::) Going straight up to the big jug on Electrofly that you use to yard up to the finishing rail.
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Despite not finishing either, I can confirm the quality of Mick additions. Tape up your middle finger for Crash Damage, it need the protection :o
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Oh dear - really sorry Stuart and everyone else, I just killed breathe this afternoon :(
The starting crimp on the standup exploded into pieces as soon as I pulled on - nothing left to glue back on I'm afraid..
Think its still possible by lurching up from the low crimps - I could slap the sloper like this but it'll need some accuracy and a fair amount of tension to stick it; a nice move and with beasts like dolph roaming the woods it could be done..
Beautiful conditions at the mo..
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Oh no! What a shame (but no criticism of you, it was always going to happen sometime).
On a tangent, what were the roads like to drive on today? Not too icey coming from Stoke? And how was Wright's if you got up there? Were the finishes above the roof dry/ice free?
Thanks.
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Despite not finishing either, I can confirm the quality of Mick additions. Tape up your middle finger for Crash Damage, it need the protection :o
Your right about the name we said it was Crash Damage not Crash Test as i put. Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper.
Yeah, that's what he meant. ::) Going straight up to the big jug on Electrofly that you use to yard up to the finishing rail.
Thats right thanks for clearing that up.Oh dear - really sorry Stuart and everyone else, I just killed breathe this afternoon :(
The starting crimp on the standup exploded into pieces as soon as I pulled on - nothing left to glue back on I'm afraid..
Think its still possible by lurching up from the low crimps - I could slap the sloper like this but it'll need some accuracy and a fair amount of tension to stick it; a nice move and with beasts like dolph roaming the woods it could be done..
Beautiful conditions at the mo..
This is a real ahame as i thought the sit down to this was very good. (You didn't have to use the sloper on the stand up which was a shame). Hopefully this can still be done!
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Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper.
Yeah, that's what he meant. ::) Going straight up to the big jug on Electrofly that you use to yard up to the finishing rail.
Thats right thanks for clearing that up
Anytime mate. I'll never miss an opportunity to correct you.
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Sorry again dolph - pretty sure it will go and felt like it could be quite a cool move; I presume the sitter should still be possible too.. I blame the mince pies! Will look at it properly after christmas..
Red road's been gritted (and pot holes recently filled :)) Access from oakamoor was fine tonight. Wrights was in mint condition - ice on the first prob on the left and on the block to the right but the main crag was superb - all the roof finishes in condition, low holds in condition and some of the best friction I've ever felt there. Didn't look at any of the other crags...
Cheers, Matt
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Oh dear - really sorry Stuart and everyone else, I just killed breathe this afternoon :(
The starting crimp on the standup exploded into pieces as soon as I pulled on - nothing left to glue back on I'm afraid..
Think its still possible by lurching up from the low crimps - I could slap the sloper like this but it'll need some accuracy and a fair amount of tension to stick it; a nice move and with beasts like dolph roaming the woods it could be done..
No need to apologise mate, it was bound to happen at some point. Always fascinated me how something so thin could take so much weight. Like you say coming in from those low crimps is possible but timing and tension essential. Who knows losing that crimp may make it a better and harder prob ;)
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Red road's been gritted (and pot holes recently filled :)) Access from oakamoor was fine tonight. Wrights was in mint condition - ice on the first prob on the left and on the block to the right but the main crag was superb - all the roof finishes in condition, low holds in condition and some of the best friction I've ever felt there. Didn't look at any of the other crags...
Thanks for that, however we've decided on the Orme instead of risking the drive down to the Churnet.
As for Breathe, I reckon both the stand and the sitter will still be possible for a talented gibbon (Mike?). Although defo significantly harder. Consider the breakage as creation of a project rather than destruction of a problem.
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Just found these, Warchild and Thumbs (the real way) Well done, to whoever it is :thumbsup: and hope you don't mind me linking it to here. Now I feel as though I need to pull my finger out. As someone said to me the other week train a little more, climb a little less. :whistle:
Warchild (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJ5qtUXifTg&feature=player_embedded#)
Simple Simon extended start (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McGl7OmLzoI#)
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I had an amazing day out with the Scousers yesterday at the Churnet. The new guide has some quite good new problems. Unfortunately a was scabbing a look at Ben's copy so details may be hazy. I will def be getting a copy!
Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.
While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress.
The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?
The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.
Cheers Andy for the names and i think you need to set the bar a bit higher in your bouldering!!
Great effort doing these, I'd had a few tries on Lunar Direct last year but jumping to the sloper and holding it felt really hard, I'm keen to get back for another try now though. Never really plucked the courage up to risk losing my fingers on the mono project left of HSI don't think I'll be rushing to try that one :)
well done again.
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Obviously a slow news week so hope peeps don't mind me keeping this thread alive..
Thanks Rainbow that was very quick - I just put those videos up on youtube last week! Would have had no idea how to link them on UKB mind so thanks..
Did both probs back in the spring/summer so not news by any means - I'm not at all sure if that's the approved sequence for the upper half of Warchild; would be good if Dolph or anyone else in the know could comment? It's a great problem and quite approachable the way I did it..
Didn't know the simple simon extension was an established problem - its my favourite sequence in the churnet, probably because its so unusually skin friendly for the area! makes the last move on SS a bit of a heart-breaker mind..
Promising news for breathe - have done the start again now with a well timed lunge; not quite as bad as I thought it would be - no repeat yet as pinch and above was gopping.. Also done the moves in from sitting, starting with LH in mono, RH on good mid-height crimp - is this right or should you start lower??
Conditions seem pretty poor at the mo :(
Cheers, Matt
PS Isn't it about time this bit of mirf-cuddling in the dimmingsdale undergrowth was aired:
Churnet Bouldering - Awesome climbing (and spotting!!!!) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdp8JaEcnJg#)
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The thing you did just L of High Speed is not the variant Dolph did. From that jug you do a cross over leftwards with your right hand to a 1st joint mono, then up to a pocket quite a way left of the ledge you reached to with your left hand (via a small cluster of pebbles).
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A rather dark photo of Crash Damage
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs118.snc3/16563_227150276800_505636800_3194179_930993_n.jpg (http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs118.snc3/16563_227150276800_505636800_3194179_930993_n.jpg)
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Cheers Andy - that's actually someone else on HSIA, I just posted it for the comedy value fall!
Crash Damage looks nails but I like my finger attached to my hand - some of those gentleman's monos are deeply disturbing..
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Sorry, my mistake. The mono on CD is ok, if you tape up around your first joint to stop the 'crash damage'. As Dolph said earlier, basic power, not that technical, great move though :great:
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Basic pain threshold! Had one meek attempt and decided I still fancied climbing in 2010 :o
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Promising news for breathe - have done the start again now with a well timed lunge; not quite as bad as I thought it would be - no repeat yet as pinch and above was gopping.. Also done the moves in from sitting, starting with LH in mono, RH on good mid-height crimp - is this right or should you start lower??
I did Breathe from sitting yesterday (after clearing snow and ice from the top), it was all bone dry and in perfect condition especially the wonderful sloper. I too started with a lefthand mono, righthand lowest good crimp (and left foot on the obvious good central foothold, rightfoot flagged underneath the boulder). Can't see any point in starting lower as these holds leave you sitting comfortably on the ground. I hesitate to say that it's actually a better problem now that the crimp has broken. Mainly because you're now forced to match on the sloper.
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Effort beast! What were the roads like?
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Cool - well done Ben; brave going down this weekend - we were snowed in just up the road in Whiston..
Think you must be a bit taller than me as those holds leave me straining to to touch the mat with my bum to claim a sitter! Can't think why Dolph's version missed out the sloper altogether - that gorgeous hold is the whole point of the problem..
Stand-up:
Breathe.m4v (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrbHzxQ1ltw#)
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I had an amazing day out with the Scousers yesterday at the Churnet. The new guide has some quite good new problems. Unfortunately a was scabbing a look at Ben's copy so details may be hazy. I will def be getting a copy!
Hi Dolph, just saw this, and if you've not got one yet I'll send you one for helping out with stuff.
One thing, saw Measles23's video of Thumbs. This is different than in the guide. Is that the proper way? I remember a lot of emails going back and fro about these problems here.
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Hi Grimer, don't take my video as meaning anything; I didn't even know there was a problem called thumbs! I was just looking for a diversion from trying to figure out what the hell to do with that 2 finger pocket..
Cheers, Matt
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I did Breathe from sitting yesterday (after clearing snow and ice from the top), it was all bone dry and in perfect condition especially the wonderful sloper. I too started with a lefthand mono, righthand lowest good crimp (and left foot on the obvious good central foothold, rightfoot flagged underneath the boulder). Can't see any point in starting lower as these holds leave you sitting comfortably on the ground. I hesitate to say that it's actually a better problem now that the crimp has broken. Mainly because you're now forced to match on the sloper.
Well done that man. Yeah that's how I started it in its original state. Had a quick go last thing with head torch this afternoon. Found gaining the sloper a lot harder, well could hit it but couldn't hang it. I'm hoping it was due to being out all day :-\. Think I over graded it originally, probably 7a+ from sitting then. Now 7b maybe a little harder, difficult to tell that sloper is so condition dependant. Think I'll have another go on wed.
As for the roads, I came in from the alton side of Red Road. Quite slippey but if your careful none to bad. Wouldn't fancy it coming from Oakamoor though.
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Does anyone know if it will be accessible today? and what the weather was like there last nite?
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Suppose it depends where you are willing to walk from. From my window in Leek, I'd guess there's 6" on the wall outside and the roads are pretty grim. Wouldn't waste my time personally.
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cheers andi
yer we didnt go in the end took me 25 mins to do a 5 min journey to crouches house haha
hope it goes soon an stays cold
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Think you must be a bit taller than me as those holds leave me straining to to touch the mat with my bum to claim a sitter!
I'm 175 cm's tall but have quite long arms which probably explains why I could reach comfortably.
Found gaining the sloper a lot harder, well could hit it but couldn't hang it. I'm hoping it was due to being out all day :-\. Think I over graded it originally, probably 7a+ from sitting then. Now 7b maybe a little harder, difficult to tell that sloper is so condition dependant.
Yeah, the cold definitely helped with the sloper since the crux for me was matching it in such a state of over extension from the low footholds used in the sitter without the upper crimp to help anymore. Reckon it's probably around the 7b mark but the cold temps helped and I seem to be climbing well at the momemnt for once which may explain why it felt quite straight forward. Anyway, a well good problem still.
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Was up on Wright's on Sunday. Dripping but dry enough.
Anyway, I don't know if this has been done before but Ryan Pasta Quills climbed the super thin line between Simple Simon and problem 3 (Ru's guide p.228, directly above the arrow head on the first diagram of arrow 1).
It was chalked but you never know! Anyway, he suggested about V10 and it looked a bit shouldery, a bit fingery and a bit difficult. A good addition.
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Nice one, i had looked at this a few weeks ago and wondered if it had been done. Any name?
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a bit shouldery, a bit fingery and a bit difficult. A good addition.
Brilliant effort! - agree with all the above - I worked hard on this back in the summer and did the individual moves but struggled with the link: How did he do it in the end Andi - gaston the flake with right then up to crimp with left?
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He started with a thumb on the gaston, rocked on, turned it into a gaston (which looked like a horribly finger creeping type move) then up with left and a few more grunts for the top.
Disappointingly it took him about four goes, which would make it twice as hard as Ray's Roof.
No name was mentioned as it was unclear if it'd been done or not before.
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Four times as hard as slingshot then!
Surely we'd know if someone had done it - its such an obvious churnet LGP you'd have to be pretty shy and retiring not to let others know.. If the chalk was old, minimal and brushed its probably mine from the summer; I've not seen fresh chalk on it since.
Needs a name (and a start that normal people can reach!)
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:yawn: It was mine, it was mine how dare he steal my project I'd been working on it for 10 weeks. There's not enough rock out there for everyone you know! go and find your own problems. :kiss2: nice one Ryan how about the dyno thing to the right that needs doing too
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Awesome effort. :bow: I thought we were a year or two away from this being done. Anyone in the know pester for a name.
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I was on the Pine boulder (just before cottage Rocks) over the easter bank holiday.
Climbed a cool line that starts far right on the Pine Boulder and traverse left with funky moves to a rail ( as used on Left Pine) where a big move up leads to bigger holds.
Has anyone done this before?
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I was on the Pine boulder (just before cottage Rocks) over the easter bank holiday.
Climbed a cool line that starts far right on the Pine Boulder and traverse left with funky moves to a rail ( as used on Left Pine) where a big move up leads to bigger holds.
Has anyone done this before?
I know I replied to your pm, Just thought I'd reply on here in the intrest of politeness. I'd looked at line but never tried it. Don't think it had been done. Was out on Mon and things have started to dry out nicely. The curse of the guide !!, Gentleman's looks a little worse for ware. Lunar Direct's starting jug came off. Not my me, that prob is far too hard for me at the mo. I have the hold will glue back on if anyone wants me too. Martin's Mono prob the undercut thang has crumbled a bit. Anyone know when/how did that boulder fall? of the top of Wrights. Luckily none of the climbing or landings have been affected. Jeez wouldn't like to have been around when that came down
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No idea how or when it fell, it took me a while to decide whether it had always been like that (decided it definitely hadn't). I was up there when it was dripping and made sure I moved fairly quickly past the gully it fell down!
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Good news about the Pine prob, guess its mine then :thumbsup:
I was up Wrights on the 13th of March and the boulder looked like it had only just fallen. I had a lil clean up and found evidence of a wrecking bar of some kind used to smash it off its ledge! I dont wanna point any fingers, but if past experience is anything to go by then local youths have got to be top of the suspects list!
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Guilty for Lunar Direct (christ anyone would think I'm on a one man mission to wreck all of Mick's problems) - Luckily it doesn't really affect the problem or grade as you can go up from the shelf via some small undercuts in the overhang; crux is still the move to the sidepull... Quite good moves so not sure there's any point gluing it back on..
Not guilty (for once!) for the crumbling undercut on Martin's mono but have repeated it since; its a little tougher..
Thanks for the blue nun video Stuart; inspired me to wander down to find the well hidden buttress - do you know who put up the 'missing you already' traverse? Its really very good crimpiness and quite different to other churnet sideways movement - reminded me of little northumberland at Nesscliffe..
Cheers, Matt
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Thanks for the blue nun video Stuart; inspired me to wander down to find the well hidden buttress - do you know who put up the 'missing you already' traverse? Its really very good crimpiness and quite different to other churnet sideways movement - reminded me of little northumberland at Nesscliffe..
Cheers, Matt
That and most of the other newish problems down that way were done by Rob, (Mirf). Need to get back on that myself. Judging by the chalk, looks like there maybe an even lower traverse underneath 'Missing You Already'.
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Judging by the chalk, looks like there maybe an even lower traverse underneath 'Missing You Already'.
You'd be right - figured out a sequence the other day and did it today, although its fairly short. Could be extended at a higher level (easyish), or at the same level (hard), but it starts feeling a bit eliminatey further right..
War (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEcuB5YGqzc#ws)
I wasn't filming when I did 'missing you.." but I've got earlier footage falling off after the crux if it'd be any use to you for sequence? I'm likely to be hanging out there a bit in coming weeks working extensions/links etc..
Cheers, Matt
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I'm liking the look of them moves. I'm sure its harder than you make it look.
I wasn't filming when I did 'missing you.." but I've got earlier footage falling off after the crux if it'd be any use to you for sequence? I'm likely to be hanging out there a bit in coming weeks working extensions/links etc..
Cheers, Matt
Yeah footage of 'missing you' would be useful for me. Looking forward to trying the stuff up there. Its one area which I've not done much. Will probably make it out that way Fri eve.
Cheers
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Has the dyno eliminate of the two finger pocket problem at Gentleman's been done (i'm pretty sure it will have been)? If so what's the name/grade?
Tried it briefly on Tuesday evening and felt like it would go for me.
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Has the dyno eliminate of the two finger pocket problem at Gentleman's been done (i'm pretty sure it will have been)? If so what's the name/grade?
Do you mean just going off the two finger pocket to lip. Yeah would have been done ages ago, its funny because me with my blinkers on did it that way many moons ago thinking it was a new problem. But was done well before that.
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Has the dyno eliminate of the two finger pocket problem at Gentleman's been done (i'm pretty sure it will have been)? If so what's the name/grade?
Do you mean just going off the two finger pocket to lip. Yeah would have been done ages ago, its funny because me with my blinkers on did it that way many moons ago thinking it was a new problem. But was done well before that.
I meant going from the bottom shelf direct to the lip, eliminating the two finger pocket.
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I meant going from the bottom shelf direct to the lip, eliminating the two finger pocket.
Ahh, thinking about it that must be a monster of a move. good luck with that, and keep us updated with the progress.
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I meant going from the bottom shelf direct to the lip, eliminating the two finger pocket.
Ahh, thinking about it that must be a monster of a move. good luck with that, and keep us updated with the progress.
Haha, yeah it is. But I have a secret weapon that shall defeat the monsterness!
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Haha, yeah it is. But I have a secret weapon that shall defeat the monsterness!
A ladder?
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I was out in the Churnet on Saturday and went up to the Stoney Dale Quarry area to have a go at the esoterica up there. Just before you get to Stoney Dale Quarry and after the track leading to the little quarry, there is a small buttress just above the main track (literally ten metres from the big quarry). There were two obvious lines on the block: the blunt arete on the right and a curving line of holds heading leftwards via a few really cool moves to a big flat jug (with a cleaned highball topout that looks well sketchy)
Anyone know anything about these two problems?
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I know the wall you mean. The left line has been chalked up on and off for years. I'm pretty sure someone must have done it. Well to the jug anyway. Topping out from there looks well scary. I've had a few goes on the right arete. Great moves, it looks like the lower half is the meat of the problem but its the top half which is the tricky bit. Go forth and do that arete, that might inspire me to get back on it. I've done it on a shunt and thought a intense 7b. Make of that what you will.
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Ah, I'd forgotten I'd posted this. Should have mailed you as I knew you'd have the knowledge...
Well, the curving left hand line is pretty good, especially from a sitter by the arete. The hard move, doing a big rockover to the crimps before the jug being very pleasing. I didn't have the balls to seriously try the topout as it was so blind, high, sketchy, I'm a coward etc etc. So I satisfied myself with dropping off from the jug. I did manage to fall off matching the big jug the first time I got up there, and contrived to hit the edge of the ledge below, then bounce down into the undergrowth and dirt. Not a nice experience but it made me laugh as i cleaned the mud out of my shoes and clothes. Anyway, a worthwhile problem but it needs to be topped out sometime.
Likewise, the arete has a less than ideal landing, being slopey and quite far away from the top. However, you have me psyched now and I may head back there to try it when things cool down a little.
Thanks for getting back to me.