Is strapping a lantern to the forehead a new fashion for the winter?
Bizarre ..... It was my first "7c", but I have since climbed other ones that I found easier
Such as?
Basically I went back to Bizarre after I'd done it, having climbed about 6 or 7 more 7c's in Font, the Peak and Swiss, and still found it hard. Other 7c's I've returned to I've been able to repeat quickly and relatively easily. Not the case with Bizarre for some reason.
There are four on the Kudos wall, aren't there? Kudos Original (rockover on polished smear), Johnny G 7c, The Pinch, Ned's Problem (Pinch hold to Press jug).
don't know what johnny g and the pinch or neds problem are.
joelm there are no one move 7c's on kudos wall and the only one at the tor is undercuts to sloper/quote]The pinch problem and undercuts to sloper are the problems I meant.
Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress. The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.
Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper.