UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Will Hunt on March 02, 2016, 12:39:35 pm
-
Another Font recommendations thread for you all. The main battle for me in a week's trip is going to start on Day 2 - skin management and fatigue. Does anybody have any recommendations in this grade range which won't shred my tips? Crimps are fine providing they aren't sharp.
I have plenty of unfinished business which should fit the bill from the last disastrous trip in the form of:
l'Angle Ben's (I think I dropped the move from the top crimp to the top at least twice?)
El Poussif (Dune)
La Baleine
L'Oeuf
Onde de Choc
And since I have only been once before and basically got up nothing then please feel free to point me in the direction of The Classics. In that vein, these all look good:
Graviton
L'Helicoptere
Le Toit du Cul de Chien
Le Coeur
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame
I will group them up by crag and it would be good to have plenty of suggestions so I can pick targets based on conditions/aspect etc.
-
if you want to save skin, don't pick projects with knacky deadpoint moves
other than that i have no advices
-
if you want to save skin, don't pick projects with knacky deadpoint moves
other than that i have no advices
Bon. Is there a problem on that list in particular that involves such a horror?
-
La Baleine
L'Helicoptere
your description of your performance on Ben's
Graviton can be a bit slappy depending on top out method
of course that should be caveated with nothing involves a tricky deadpoint if you find it easy, but any problem where you find you're failing due to ripping off, or inaccuracy in latching something are the one's that you should try and limit your attempts on. there is no real list that would cover everyone
-
You don't appear to have Duroxmanie in your classics list?
(http://www.mistymountainhop.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/IMG_9282.jpg)
-
Is that Dave Riley? I recognise those sweatbands.
-
Is that Dave Riley? I recognise those sweatbands.
Random picture off the interent (mistymountainhop blog). I thought it best represented Will's physique.....
Edit: I think you're right, http://www.mistymountainhop.net/
-
Yeah, that's Dave's. The Bawbags (scottish made undies) are another clue. How random.
-
Duroxmanie
and the nearby Festin De Pierre (looks crimpy but the gratons at the top are huge and smooth)
Wouldn't bother with helicoptre for the legbreaking potential alone. Abbatoir is a better option.
Araignee at cuvier is worth a look if you're not a midget.
Joker at cuvier is an otherwise overrated chipped problem redeemed by not being especially skinbad.
Holey Moley if it's cool.
Surplomb De Cocquille, out the back of Isatis
Lapin Ou Canard, ditto
El Poussah should be OK on skin, esp if you go the toehook beta as you can't actually make a hand movement unless you're about to do the problem
Beatle Juice at Cuisiniere
Pancras and the pocket one at Mont Pivot
Chasseur de Prises at Canon
Tentation at 95.2
La Coeur is a potential skintrasher unless you get it done quickly. The top left side of the heart hold is quite chewy.
-
Graviton
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame
I will group them up by crag and it would be good to have plenty of suggestions so I can pick targets based on conditions/aspect etc.
Must have been to Sabot 20 times and never knew that one at the bottom existed. Within 5m of that you have L'Oblique and Jeu du Toit which are probably better (i.e. not a daft jump I'm unlikely to succeed on.) and from memory are skin friendly. Oh plus the arete just L of Graviton. But the two behind it, Achille Talon and Jus D'Orange, are both skin chewers
Possibly Excalibur to go with Dave's suggestion at Cuisiniere.
Might be obvious but planning to be at certain problems while they're in shade (or waiting til they are) will save your skin and increase chances of quick success
-
Le magnifique @ cuisiniere was really good I thought. You should find it quite easy lad!
-
Isn't magnifique on sharp grattons?
-
It probably does as my memory is a bit hazy. I just recall nice sloping pockets near the lip before the spicy top out.
-
La Voie Michaud at Elephant?
-
Rababoum.
-
Rababoum.
+1, so good
-
Egoiste at Appremont doesn't eat skin
Clin de l'Oeil just accross the path from it can be lank-lurched. I don't remember losing skin, but could be wrong about it
-
Wouldn't bother with helicoptre for the legbreaking potential alone. Abbatoir is a better option.
This^. I think general advice is appropriate, like don't keep trying the same move over and over. Avoid jumps to slopers (suppose Baleine can be like that but just go big first time and it's OK!). None of those sharp crimps. Just be sensible and think big picture (like you have a whole week to climb), rather than thrash at one problem.
Climbing easy stuff with taped fingers for warming up/active rest days can work but make you look silly. I used to take a portable wooden board to warm up on rather than loose skin, fairly extreme measures though. Enjoy, hope I manage to get back out this month...
-
Egoiste at Appremont doesn't eat skin
Clin de l'Oeil just accross the path from it can be lank-lurched. I don't remember losing skin, but could be wrong about it
I remember a bunch of folk slapping about slopers on this. I lost skin on Egoiste but it wasn't from my hands.
-
Brilliant suggestions so far everyone (Rababoum in particular looks incredible), and thank you for the advice.
I'm targeting this grade range because I am hoping it will allow me to climb fun problems that are tricky, but not completely waste me, so that I can get up and do the same the next day. As a rule of thumb I'm thinking to try two 7s per day and spend the rest of the time sampling the delights of the easier problems.
I flashed Egoiste :smartass:
It was the first problem we tried after a rest day and it was in the morning shade. That about sums up the importance of pacing and tactics for me!
-
Le Lepreux Direct? I remember it all being skin-friendly slopers, but that was over five years ago now...
-
Le Lepreux Direct? I remember it all being skin-friendly slopers, but that was over five years ago now...
Yeah skin friendly, just a shame it's a shadow of its former self. Went on it 18months ago, the staring undercut is much worse due to breakage, making first move the crux by far, and the top moves felt much easier than they used to, holds much bigger feeling. Feels like the start broke so someone chipped/improved the top slopers to compensate and keep the overall grade the same.
-
Le Lepreux Direct? I remember it all being skin-friendly slopers, but that was over five years ago now...
...Feels like the start broke so someone chipped/improved the top slopers to compensate and keep the overall grade the same.
:slap: :wank:
-
Damn, I thought the slopers were the nice bit!
-
When are you headed to Font Will?
-
Driving on the 19th and there for the week. Et tu?
-
I flashed Egoiste :smartass:
It was the first problem we tried after a rest day and it was in the morning shade. That about sums up the importance of pacing and tactics for me!
best get the sitter done then
-
Driving on the 19th and there for the week. Et tu?
19th, two weeks
fuck yeah :dance1:
(somewhat lower grade range than you)
-
You lucky lad. Say hi if you see me!
-
you're the one with the mushroom shaped head, right?
I look like me only a bit rounder and older
-
Ah, never mind. Me and TC are off there next month for a week.
-
you're the one with the mushroom shaped head, right?
I look like me only a bit rounder and older
Nice one. I'm pretty easy to dislike so feel free to tell me to fuck right off.
-
cool
is it OK if I get the kids to kick sand in your face?
-
random list around 7a without sharpness
la conque à doigts
la joker (one fingery move but the hold insn't sharp)
retour au sources
beetle juice
zen
undertow
le nain vert sait
holey moley
gargantoit (may be damp in this season, more of a warm climate problem)
-
cool
is it OK if I get the kids to kick sand in your face?
Please, I insist.
-
Can i film it?
-
Garagantoit (as mentioned)
El poosah depending on how you go about it / how many goes you go about it for.
Helipcotre and Abbatoir are ruined these days IMO (as is Cortomaltese).
Zen, I thought this was poor (lowball and not amazing rock) likewise for Holey Moley (sequence just feels rubbish) and Biceps Mou (slapping into an awkward dish). These aren't the quality I personally go looking for in Font.
-
Cortomaltese
One of those percentage problems mentioned earlier that you can slap away at for a day and have nothing to show for it but aching elbows and no skin.
-
He looks to be about 7ft tall though so I can't imagine it troubling him. Skin loss on such problems are about approach (i.e. not contracting Saltbeef-itis) and just walking away if it isn't happening.
-
If you're around Isatis, have a look at Iceberg if it's not in the sun. Just round the corner from Poussah / Poussif.
https://bleau.info/isatis/941.html
I don't remember it being harsh on the skin. Quite friendly slopers. More likely to wear out the rubber on your right heel.
-
Cortomaltese - Since will is 10ft tall he'll piss it. It's got a lot sofetr over time (chipping or erosion)
Iceberg - I found this proper hard.
-
Definitely gargantoit, it's amazing.
Also forgot about satan m'habite, good holds, steep and soft!
-
To add to those mentioned from memory L'Oblique was good and skin friendly, Ca Pelle Au Logis was a lot of fun on finger friendly holds.
-
I would really like to do Gargantoit at some point but this trip is probably not the time. There are 8 people going and dunnyg and I are the drivers. Of the 6 others I think 5 of them are probably going to be operating in the low 6s? My memory of Gargantoit is that it is really the only great problem in the area.
Last time we went to Gargantoit on the last day before leaving for the ferry and Ben did it. I sat and drank beer because my elbows were on fire! In fairness, Ben's were also on fire. Each attempt at l'Aerodynamite the day before had been followed by screams of pain and 5 minutes of face down whimpering on the pad. It was kind of disgusting to watch because it was like some sort of grim S&M scene, but also hilariously funny. I just made a decision to not push further into injury.
-
Duel dans la Lune and Les Pieds dans la Lune at 95.2?
-
For my trip in April I've been compiling a list of steep problems on big holds that should be fairly skin friendly, though I've also been including slopery slappy problems and mostly ones I haven't tried before so not entirely sure. Here are some that I think haven't been mentioned already:
pensees cachees,, cuisiniere.
le jeu du toit. sabots.
divine decadence isatis
crazy horse apremont
belle gueule, mont pivot
l'egoiste, apremont
l'hyper plomb, apremont
le mouton a 5 pattes cuisiniere.
plastikman isatis
surplomb feuillete isatis
equivogue elephant
lapin ou canard franchard hautes plaines
le flippeur sabots.
ju jitsu apremont
knees. apremont
le flippeur ss 91.1
musclor. buthiers
-
Cortomaltese - Since will is 10ft tall he'll piss it. It's got a lot sofetr over time (chipping or erosion)
I'm Will's height (6ft 2) and left a fair amount of skin behind. Will weights about the same as my leg though, so might well piss it. I think it's pretty connies dependant. That's my other excuse.
-
Cortomaltese - Since will is 10ft tall he'll piss it. It's got a lot sofetr over time (chipping or erosion)
I'm Will's height (6ft 2) and left a fair amount of skin behind. Will weights about the same as my leg though, so might well piss it. I think it's pretty connies dependant. That's my other excuse.
Not sure where you got that figure from Chris. I was actually 12ft 9in last time I measured but I've had a bit of a growth spurt since then.
(I'm 5ft fucking 11)
-
Fucking giants
-
(I'm 5ft fucking 11)
Are you fuck. I'm 6ft... :ang:
-
I'm 6ft... :ang:
That's what your mum tells you.
-
Fucking giants
Speak up sonny? Can't hear you over the wind.
-
Ok, so I've put the suggestions into a graded list by area. So many incredible looking problems!
Franchard Isatis
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Cuisinière Crête Sud
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html)
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 6C
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait (https://bleau.info/fin/8491.html) - 7A/+
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
-
Suggest Le Yaniro at 95.2 and Big Jim at Petit Bois
-
Sorry Will, misunderstanding, Jus D'Orange and Achille Talon shouldn't be on there, I was trying to say that they will chew you up so avoid them.
This next door to Graviton is ok though
https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html
-
Good research will. I like your tactics.
-
Nice one sidehaas and nai. I've modified the list.
I did Big Jim last year and can't believe its only just been mentioned. Fits the bill perfectly. Petit Bois was such a beautiful crag, really hope we go back this year.
-
And your link to Tentation takes you to Rocher Canon
Here it is:
https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html
Tried this last year until the sun beat me (get there in the morning), think it's ok on skin.
https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html
Getting quite very psyched by this thread. With my Spain trip having fallen through and so many folk out there I'm considering going to visit the areas the family won't go and try problems that need more than a couple of pads.
-
Fixed
Franchard Isatis
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Cuisinière Crête Sud
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html)
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 6C
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait (https://bleau.info/fin/8491.html) - 7A/+
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
-
For my trip in April I've been compiling a list of steep problems on big holds that should be fairly skin friendly, though I've also been including slopery slappy problems and mostly ones I haven't tried before so not entirely sure. Here are some that I think haven't been mentioned already:
pensees cachees,, cuisiniere.
le jeu du toit. sabots.
divine decadence isatis
crazy horse apremont
belle gueule, mont pivot
l'egoiste, apremont
l'hyper plomb, apremont
le mouton a 5 pattes cuisiniere.
plastikman isatis
surplomb feuillete isatis
equivogue elephant
lapin ou canard franchard hautes plaines
le flippeur sabots.
ju jitsu apremont
knees. apremont
le flippeur ss 91.1
musclor. buthiers
Jeu du Toit is a good shout. I thought Knees felt pretty hard, but it is just a few moves on big holds.
I wouldn't call Musclor skin friendly though. It's a really fun problem, but the first few moves before the burly, slappy fun were off a horrible, sharp pocket that I think I had to tape my finger up for to take the pain. Could've been low on skin though..
-
If you're at Lapin ou Canard, then the left hand exit is worth an addition. I don't remember any nasty holds.
https://bleau.info/plaines/1416.html
-
Just so you know, Roche aux Sabot Sud is barely 50m from the main area so no need to plan a different visit. Well named problem, total solitude just a stone's throw from the circus that is Sabot.
And re Cul De Chien, it's a long walk for a classic but chipped problem with little else there. Could probably use your time a better.
-
Plus there always seems to be a small circus around that problem.
-
Great list, just in time for our easter trip as well! :D
-
I'd take Le yaniro off that list, rearrange the words desperate fucking absolutely.
-
I did Yaniro in about 5 goes and I'm weak. Felt softish for the grade using a figure 4 (and I'd never used one before!)
-
the one just left of yaniro is nice as well.
oh, one skin friendly slab: le nombriliste. may be easier for the very tall.
-
Are you tall sidehaus? I've been there with quite a few people, possibly 20 over the years and no ones done it. All of whom climb 7a+ in 2 goes or less, at least 3 climb 8b. Climbing is certainly bizarre :'(
-
Nope, 5ft11 with negative ape.
Key beta was to 'get your leg over' as far as you can - frlt like whole leg rather just your knee.
3min50 here, sorry about the music...
https://vimeo.com/144226989
-
Quality little vid sidehaas :great: you could do a lot worse than ignoring all the other suggestions and just tick you way through that vid!
If that's you on controle 'a' and climbing most of the probs then I think it may be safe to assume that you've got the biggest negative ape I've seen ;)
-
Looking back at some historic ticklists I've found on my computer, in addition to your list above I'd go with:
Franchard Isatis: Boule De Nerfs 7a+ (highball-ish crack to rounded topout, easier for the tall)
https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html)
Franchard Sablons: Jokari 7a+ (undercut reach move to arete then a heel-on mantle)
https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html)
Also, what about the stuff at Buthiers Piscine - Lady Big Claques, Attention Chef etc?
-
Looking back at some historic ticklists I've found on my computer, in addition to your list above I'd go with:
Franchard Isatis: Boule De Nerfs 7a+ (highball-ish crack to rounded topout, easier for the tall)
https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html)
Franchard Sablons: Jokari 7a+ (undercut reach move to arete then a heel-on mantle)
https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html)
Also, what about the stuff at Buthiers Piscine - Lady Big Claques, Attention Chef etc?
A reach move followed by a heel move, you say?
:devangel:
-
Hey, there's 50% of that problem I'll find easier but I'm betting it won't be the same bit as you...at least you'll have a fighting chance of being able to get as far as the mantle!
-
the crimp on angle ben's is a bit brutal, I thought.
Le memel at isatis is ace and not too bad on the skin.
Vaudou-systeme at cuvier is easy on the skin and fun if you are at cuvier and are tall.
-
Been shopping around on bleau.info I stumbled over this, apparently near to L'angle Ben's:
https://bleau.info/isatis/1516.html (https://bleau.info/isatis/1516.html)
Looks good, not crimpy etc. Usual disclaimer from watching videos of Font bouldering online - that guy could be (and probably is from experience) about 7 feet tall.
-
I've done that, it's a bit shit. The description... start in pit and try not to dab ... gives it away.
-
Fixed a few link errors and included the recommendations from the Palmstrong and 3T - with a hint of wariness as some of those problems look like minging crux topout things. I know you have to expect some rounded top out stuff in Font but problems that are one easy move into a grim elbow-splitting brawl through rounded shitness don't really appeal that much. Probably going on the wrong holiday.
Franchard Isatis
La Memel (https://bleau.info/isatis/572.html) - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html) - 7A/+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Franchard Sablons
Jokari (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html) - 7A/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Cuisinière Crête Sud
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/sabots/782.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html)
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html) - 6C
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1175.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait (https://bleau.info/fin/8491.html) - 7A/+
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
-
Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.
Franchard Isatis
La Memel (https://bleau.info/isatis/572.html) - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html) - 7A/+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Franchard Sablons
Jokari (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html) - 7A/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne (https://bleau.info/cretesud/472.html) - 7B
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien (https://bleau.info/cretesud/11476.html) - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille (https://bleau.info/cretesud/3275.html) - 6C/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/sabots/782.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html)
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html) - 6C
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1175.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait (https://bleau.info/fin/8491.html) - 7A/+
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
[/quote]
-
If you're at isatis, this is really good. Not far from el poussah: https://bleau.info/isatis/9263.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
problems that are one easy move into a grim elbow-splitting brawl through rounded shitness don't really appeal that much
In which case don't bother with this, the top out is about as "font" as they come:
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
-
problems that are one easy move into a grim elbow-splitting brawl through rounded shitness don't really appeal that much
In which case don't bother with this, the top out is about as "font" as they come:
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Noted, thanks. It doesn't look like one of the best on the list.
If you're at isatis, this is really good. Not far from el poussah: https://bleau.info/isatis/9263.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ta Ross. Does anybody know the rules on the left exit? Guys in the pics seem to eliminate the flat top part of that crack but people doing the left exit in the videos seem happy to use it.
-
If you're at isatis, this is really good. Not far from el poussah: https://bleau.info/isatis/9263.html
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ta Ross. Does anybody know the rules on the left exit? Guys in the pics seem to eliminate the flat top part of that crack but people doing the left exit in the videos seem happy to use it.
I think we didn't use the flat top bit, I seem to remember us going for the vertical bit of that crack as a finger jammy gaston thing...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.
Editing the Wiki is not much more onerous than what you are already doing and avoids the duplication introduced by repeatedly quoting the existing list.
Because there are other grade ranges people might want recommendations for and to avoid the Font section of the France venues page being dwarfed by such lists I've started a new page on Recommended problems in Font (http://ukbouldering.wikia.com/wiki/Recommended_Font_Problems) and switched to a tabular format (copying over the bleau.info links for each problem at the same time).
Ideally I'd have organised recommendations into the broad number ranges but its not how the list started and I've finished my lunch and have to work now.
-
Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.
Editing the Wiki is not much more onerous than what you are already doing and avoids the duplication introduced by repeatedly quoting the existing list.
Because there are other grade ranges people might want recommendations for and to avoid the Font section of the France venues page being dwarfed by such lists I've started a new page on Recommended problems in Font (http://ukbouldering.wikia.com/wiki/Recommended_Font_Problems) and switched to a tabular format (copying over the bleau.info links for each problem at the same time).
Ideally I'd have organised recommendations into the broad number ranges but its not how the list started and I've finished my lunch and have to work now.
:bow:
I've been waiting for you to grow tired of my laziness and do this ;)
Thanks Slacks
-
Its more that I don't wish the Venues pages to lose their focus which would have happened had fried's initial edit remained and been added to.
I won't be updating the list any further but the information is organised into a more useful structure for others to add to.
-
Nice work :2thumbsup: It looked really strange tacked onto the end of the Font section, I was wondering how to make it look better.
-
Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.
Franchard Isatis
La Memel (https://bleau.info/isatis/572.html) - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html) - 7A/+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Franchard Sablons
Jokari (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html) - 7A/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne (https://bleau.info/cretesud/472.html) - 7B
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien (https://bleau.info/cretesud/11476.html) - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille (https://bleau.info/cretesud/3275.html) - 6C/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/sabots/782.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html)
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html) - 6C
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1175.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait (https://bleau.info/fin/8491.html) - 7A/+
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
[/quote]
El Poussah is strangely rough on the skin, as is Retour Aux Sources (although it was warm when I did it). Clin d'Oeil is shit, even if you're tall. I'll second Jeu du Toit at Roche aux Sabots.
I would add Ah Plus Facile (the left version of Lapin Ou Canard) at Hautes Plaines, Le Labyrinth des Hombres at Rocher Canon and Duel dans la Lune and Les Pieds dans la Lune at 95.2.
-
Quality little vid sidehaas :great: you could do a lot worse than ignoring all the other suggestions and just tick you way through that vid!
If that's you on controle 'a' and climbing most of the probs then I think it may be safe to assume that you've got the biggest negative ape I've seen ;)
Cheers :)
That wasn't me on Controle A though, and Neil (who it was) does indeed have a big span :)
Having just come back from another trip I'd be tempted to suggest Ange Naif Droite at 95.2 - thought it was really good, and the crucial crimp is good enough that it doesn't feel too skin intensive.
-
Having just come back from another trip I'd be tempted to suggest Ange Naif Droite at 95.2 - thought it was really good, and the crucial crimp is good enough that it doesn't feel too skin intensive.
That crimp split my tip wide open after three attempts on Ange Naif.
-
Was gonna say that! I found that crimp awful to hold as well, another split tip from here. Good problem but horrid crimp
-
cant remember about skin friendly, but this is definitely one of, if not the best problems for the grade I have ever done
https://bleau.info/puiselet/9375.html
-
Ok fair enough, ignore that then. I thought the edge was quite sharp but at least it was deep enough that you weren't boning right onto it...guess I muat have juat been a bit lucky.
No abrasiveness at least so if at the start of a trip it'd probably be ok.
-
Biotope at puiselet mont sarrasin is very good fun and skin for friendly.
-
Bit of an emergency ask this. We have a copy of the 5+6 but our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).
In another thread on this subject the Essential Font guide was recommended. Is this going to be useful for targeting climbs on this list or is there going to be a load of stuff that is difficult to find in a very selective guidebook? I'm likely to go again so don't mind getting something decent. I've never been too sold on the concept of 5+6 and 7+8 as it seems to me that the vast majority of visitors will need to buy two guidebooks and take both of them to the crag on the same day!
-
Why do you want a guidebook? You've got 4 pages of must do's!!!
-
Why do you want a guidebook? You've got 4 pages of must do's!!!
Still have to find the problems!
Not always easy, spent three hours looking for Ironman last time I was there, like an idiot, only to find it soaking.
-
Not surprised, it always rains at trowbarrow!
-
our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).
I've got a copy of the first 7&8 that I won't be using (no chance of me doing a 7 at the moment) - I could take it to Font with me and lend it to you
-
Why not just mark the higher-grade problems on the 5+6 guide, a lot of them are marked anyway. That is if you have both volumes. These guides aren't for grockles anyway.
-
The tabac in Barbizon had 7s & 8s in last week.
-
I've got a copy of the old 7+8 you can have for nowt. PM me your address and I'll stick it in the post to you.
-
You can borrow my 7+8s? It's the second edition I think. Manchester based if anyone from your lot is coming from this area.
-
our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).
The "Off-Piste" guide from the Montchausse/Godoffe team (http://www.cordee.co.uk/Fontainebleau-Off-Piste-det-15-95-95-315.html) who authored the old "Purple" circuits guide is very good as it covers problems in the 6a to 8c range across the forest in one book.
-
Thanks for the responses everyone.
TC, I'd love to take you up on that offer but I'm afraid it probably wouldn't arrive in time. Leaving on Friday night.
Galpinos, that might actually be an option. It wouldn't be me doing the collecting and dropping off but there are folk coming from Manc. Not sure whether they can get over to yours though. Whereabouts are you?
Lagers, that sounds great, thanks for the offer! Maybe we could arrange to climb at the same crag on the first day (Sunday)?
-
Will, I'm in Chorlton, SW Manc. I also have the Off-piste guide and the old OTE Bleau guide (not much use but does have a picture of midgets of the world unite flashing Alta in a scarf/poncho thing)
-
Super duper. One of our lot could come over tomorrow night if that's convenient. If you PM me your address and phone number I can put him in touch with you.
Thanks again!
-
Super duper.
Spiffing what!
-
Bit of an emergency ask this. We have a copy of the 5+6 but our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).
In another thread on this subject the Essential Font guide was recommended. Is this going to be useful for targeting climbs on this list or is there going to be a load of stuff that is difficult to find in a very selective guidebook? I'm likely to go again so don't mind getting something decent. I've never been too sold on the concept of 5+6 and 7+8 as it seems to me that the vast majority of visitors will need to buy two guidebooks and take both of them to the crag on the same day!
7+8 seems to be in stock at a lot of shops around Fontainebleau - it's in the SCape climbing shop I think, and also in good stock at the English bookshop (on Rue de Ferrare).
-
Does anyone know when the new 7+8 guide is coming out? I heard a rumour there was one, but my French googling abilities let me down trying to confirm that.
-
Does anyone know when the new 7+8 guide is coming out? I heard a rumour there was one, but my French googling abilities let me down trying to confirm that.
My French is pretty much non-existant, but Cordee* list it as 2016-11-01 (http://www.cordee.co.uk/Fontainebleau%2C-7And8-det-15-96-282-9014.html)
* Almost anything guide book related I'll check on Cordee since they're one of the largest UK distributors and stock most things.
-
Does anyone know when the new 7+8 guide is coming out? I heard a rumour there was one, but my French googling abilities let me down trying to confirm that.
My French is pretty much non-existant, but Cordee* list it as 2016-11-01 (http://www.cordee.co.uk/Fontainebleau%2C-7And8-det-15-96-282-9014.html)
bart van raaij is busy working on the new guide, it has been a busy few years in fontainebleau development.
* Almost anything guide book related I'll check on Cordee since they're one of the largest UK distributors and stock most things.
-
Almost anything guide book related I'll check on Cordee since they're one of the largest UK distributors and stock most things.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip.
-
Mid trip update. I'm really really enjoying working through this list.
Angle Ben's - shouldn't really be on the list as the good bits you use on the arête are actually tiny ripples that pull skin off but I nearly did it last time so wanted to finish off. Squeaked my boots for the last go before sacking it off to save skin and the feet stuck for the slap to the top. Like floating.
Moved on towards Undertow and had a few goes. Despite being regarded soft it's very burly and we were tired. Left it off in favour of not going out too hard on first day.
Roche aux Sabots. Very much enjoyed l'Oblique and also did Smash which was fun. Both nice and skin friendly. Did Jet Set which wasnt great but nice and a relatively straightforward ego massage in good conditions. Le bond de hippopotame (that jump that nobody seemed to know about) was brilliant fun and soft.
Third day went to Cul de Chien and took it easy. The roof and a few oranges. Thought the roof was a deserved classic and unfairly maligned. It's not far to walk at all to get there and in the morning it was otherwise deserted and quiet. Once you've done it there are some great areas within ten mins walk.
Today we started with l'Araignee which is unfortunately marred by a dab magnet tree. Climbed it with a dab (:spank:) and moved onto Charcuterie which for my money is vastly superior and should be on the list. Charging into the undercut once you've got the good jug is a hell of a move, and no dab tree to worry about. Went on to Cuvier Rempart which was immeasurably more pleasant an environment than Bas and did Duroxmanie - a complete gem. Had a quick play on the thing to the left (big tall slab/wall) but wasn't keen on the landing so ventured to Festin de Pierre. Great movement, if not a little soft, and then a couple of fabulous climbs around the corner - a tall unfinished layback crack with a slap at the end (Scarface) and the wall to the left (l'Apostrophe). Dunnyg impressively clawed up Conque a Doigts which was a bit too much like hard work and eliminate for my tastes.
Just thought I'd ramble on and let you all know how much fun your suggestions have given. Thanks to everyone who contributed :2thumbsup:
-
What's the conditions like out there?
-
Generally good nick, warm in sun, coolish in shade. Hot in the usual suntraps.
-
What's the conditions like out there?
I heard it was dry.... ;)
Not sure how dry though...
-
What's the conditions like out there?
mornings have been good - so good that I managed the proper start to Lépreux Direct (not my style) - only to find that the top is now several grades easier than it used to be.
:furious:
it might as well be just an alternative finish to Le Surplomb du Lépreux
-
Reckon someone has chipped the top slopers on lepreux, suspicious that despite the starting undercut breaking and making the first move desperate, the overall grade has remained the same.
-
Reckon someone has chipped the top slopers on lepreux, suspicious that despite the starting undercut breaking and making the first move desperate, the overall grade has remained the same.
I did it pre break and worked it with Mrs Rodma just post break and it was definitely harder at that point in time, but didn't get an upgrade the same way boucherie didn't get an upgrade immediately post break I guess. I found the undercut move all the way through to getting the second sloper to be the crux post break, where previously it felt like the flick to the top was the crux.
Sad to hear that lepreux has been altered by weaklings, there's nowt worse
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
-
Yeah the flick to the top used to be the crux by farm and the bottom bit fine, now the first move is nails (took me and lovejoy quite a few concerted goes 18mnths ago) and the top is now far easier as the holds feel way more positive.
Unfortunately I don't think this is punters trying to make a problem easier. I have a feeling it is probably local custodians/activists engaging in constructive chipping after a breakage to try and preserve a grade of a classic. I think they have form for this, pretty sure after the madman chipping incidents a few of the problems were subsequently "contructively" chipped again by locals, and miraculously never got upgraded. Carnage being the obvious case. And I think from what I can tell the obviously chipped crimp on carnage (that you get with RH, first move to it) is chipped like that because the hold there previously broke. Not sure where I heard that, might be on the Real Thing dvd commentary. Basically I think there is a local precedent for this type of thing.
-
Mr Ed must be turning in his grave (or maybe just laughing at the idiots)
-
Isn't Lepreux direct an utterly gash nano-eliminate bad beta variation for a classic easy problem, that anyone in their right mind would walk straight past if it was at Minus Ten, let alone in Font....or am I thinking of something else??
-
It's next to an easy problem if that's what you mean.
-
Isn't Lepreux direct an utterly gash nano-eliminate bad beta variation for a classic easy problem, that anyone in their right mind would walk straight past if it was at Minus Ten, let alone in Font....or am I thinking of something else??
As Dave said.
You use totally different handholds.
-
Off to La Foret for a long weekend next weekend - getting there Thurs eve (sadly a bit too late to get out) but will have Fri, Sat and a bit of Sun to climb.
Friday's earmarked for Franchard as my mate wants to end his multi-visit siege of Surplomb De La Statique and I am keen for a few things at Cuisiniere
Was considering Roche Aux Oiseaux for Sat - anyone been?
This was my main motivation: [size=78%]https://bleau.info/oiseaux/8926.html (https://bleau.info/oiseaux/8926.html)[/size]
But I'll be there with one person who is operating in the 5/6 zone and one who is probably mid 6s. Is there stuff around those grades? Just don't want to drag them all the way there so I can fail on Brazil!
-
I've only walked round Oiseaux but I got the impression it's not mega extensive, mainly destination 7s and then a bit of oldschool very high stuff (that probably gets little traffic). I.e. not a normal type of font crag with circuits to suit everyone. Wouldn't be my first choice for what you're after.
-
Ah right - back around.
Was trying to avoid the obvious places but I guess given the profile of our squad and limited time for exploration it might be a case of sticking to what I know.
-
For a spread of grades probably limited to big crags, but you could do some that are a bit further from the car - Potala, Fin, Reconnaissance, Manoury, Simmonet, General/Diplodocus etc.
-
Yeah - was thinking about a few of them.
Manoury is tempting if only for Radaboum, but with 2/3 of the team sub 5 foot 8 I reckon the send train could end up stuck in the station on that one.
-
We had an amazing trip. Didn't really know what to expect since we had a very mixed ability group. Three people had never climbed outside before, a few people climbing high 5s to mid 6s and then Dunnyg and I are obviously rock gods. This actually ended up working really well because everybody made time for everybody else and made sure there was the opportunity to get on what they fancied. This meant not running from tricky problem to tricky problem - but I think on balance this meant I didn't get burned out and was able to climb at a reasonable and consistent standard throughout the trip, because there was lots more rest incorporated into each day. We were also very discerning about what problems we tried and what crags we visited on a particular day. Tactics work!
Some thoughts on the problems and some added to the list:
Franchard Isatis
La Memel (https://bleau.info/isatis/572.html) - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+ - as I think I mentioned before, this isn't that skin friendly, but it is very good.
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html) - 7A/+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Franchard Sablons
Jokari (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html) - 7A/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A - Nice problem but came to it at the end of the first day and wasn't recovering well between attempts (think the flash go was probably the strongest I felt on it). Fingertip friendly but trashes the skin on your arms. Sacked it off after a few goes of feeling quite weak on it.
Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne (https://bleau.info/cretesud/472.html) - 7B
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien (https://bleau.info/cretesud/11476.html) - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille (https://bleau.info/cretesud/3275.html) - 6C/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A - Thought this was a bit of a rubbish problem to be honest. Quite soft and doesn't actually climb that well. Plus it had a slightly sharp crimp for the right hand.
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A - Brilliant dyno. Well worth doing.
Graviton (https://bleau.info/sabots/782.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+ - Very soft but really nice climbing. Very skin friendly crimps.
*NEW ENTRY* Jet Set (https://bleau.info/sabots/775.html) - 7A - A reasonably good climb that is probably more popular than it deserves to be. Conditions dependent. Very skin friendly.
*NEW ENTRY* Smash (https://bleau.info/sabots/771.html) - 7B - Skin friendly and not that hard if you're even average at jumping.
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html)
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A - As said above. Don't think this deserves the trash that people talk about it. Its historic and climbs brilliantly. The walk is not that far and its very close to other good areas. If you get there early before the uni students have got up its shady and lovely.
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A - Really nice problem.
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html) - 6C - Absolutely stellar. One of the best problems we did.
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A - A bit crap having that tree behind you. You'd be better off doing...
*NEW ENTRY* Charcuterie (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1991.html) - Basically the same as Araignee but with no dab risk and better starting handholds, thus a little easier.
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1175.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A - A crap eliminate. Don't bother!
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait (https://bleau.info/fin/8491.html) - 7A/+ - Had a very quick play on this and thought it was toss. You'd be better off turning around and looking directly behind you at...
*NEW ENTRY* Mémoire d'Outre-Tombe (https://bleau.info/fin/875.html) - 7A+ - Starts at the very back of the roof lying down. Feels a bit crap and dabby at first but once you figure out the move the climbing through the roof is fantastic and culminates in a slappy crux. Double toe hook brilliance.
Towards the end of the blue circuit in the woods, there are a few very (very!) soft 7As that were amongst the best problems we did all trip. Well worth seeking out.
*NEW ENTRY* L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci) (https://bleau.info/fin/17735.html) - 6C+/7A - Very soft but nice. One hard move to start (start low for the left hand).
*NEW ENTRY* L'Oreille en Coin (assis) (https://bleau.info/fin/17023.html) - 6C+/7A
*NEW ENTRY* Boule de Gnôme (https://bleau.info/fin/1193.html) - 6C+/7A - Absolutely fantastic. There are a couple of boulders that are a bit dabby but they're not too bad. It looks really unlikely and then you see that all the holds are really good and friendly. Possibly one of the best climbs of the trip.
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
-
*NEW ENTRY* Jet Set (https://bleau.info/sabots/775.html) - 7A - A reasonably good climb that is probably more popular than it deserves to be. Conditions dependent. Very skin friendly.
*NEW ENTRY* Smash (https://bleau.info/sabots/771.html) - 7B - Skin friendly and not that hard if you're even average at jumping.
You'd be better off doing...
*NEW ENTRY* Charcuterie (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1991.html) - Basically the same as Araignee but with no dab risk and better starting handholds, thus a little easier.
speaks volumes about the morpho nature of those problems.
can't believe charcuterie gets lanked by almost everyone now, rather than being the awesome backpress testpiece it used to be.
fortunately araignee is not that dabby when you're my height, jet set is not conditions dependent (when you're my height) and smatch is impossible (you guessed it, when you're my height) :lol:
-
ttt don't listen to Dave. Ouiseaux is a great little venue, Brazil is quality, as is satan m'habite etc. Some good 6c's there. Look at it like this, how many problems are you gonna do in a day? 5 7a's? if so ouiseaux is great. Loads of easier probs as well. Granted it's not got as many probs as cuvier but you're not gonna do all them in a day either
-
Yeah Dave's been on the crack again. Oiseaux is an excellent venue for a visit, maybe not as extensive as some places. It's a bit high ball in places, but there's also a virtual blue that's not virtual anymore. Also one of the best 6As in the forest. And the rock is excellent and not polished. One of my favourite places in the forest.
-
Getting the psyche on for our trip at the end of March.
There's still plenty on that list to keep me occupied but I'd like to open the floor to suggestions at 7B. Anyone? Magic Bus and Carnage both look good but are listed on Bleau as being 7B+ - I thought they got 7B?
-
Way out of my league, but L'angle parfait at Dame Jouanne looks as good as they come.
-
Peter Pan, Pensees Cachees and Onde de Choc would be my top three 7Bs in Font.
-
Crazy Horse
A lot of good dynos :thumbsup:
-
Ah yes, Angle Parfait does look really good. Does anybody know if that one is Skin FriendlyTM? I did Angle Ben's last time which isn't really but I made an exception for it. The bits of the arête you use are the bits with tiny little ripples that you crimp - they drag a little bit of skin off when you use them.
-
For some reason i've always struggled to find much at 7B in Font. Tonnes at 7A+ and 7B+ but not so much at 7B. :shrug:
Of the ones I have done Bleau's Art (Cuvier Mervielle) is mint - very knacky but effortless when you get it right. I really enjoyed Crazy Horse (Apremont Ouest) too.
Iceberg (stand 7A+ and sit 7B+) at Isatis is good as well.
At 7B+ (and unfinished business for me) Rubis sur l'Ongle (Gorge aux Chats) and L'Etrave (JA Martin) are both top notch and should be on everyone's list.
-
I always thought of Carnage as being benchmark 7B+. Wasn't all that impressed with Magic Bus when I saw it, but I may have just been bitter, as I was sporting a sprained ankle at the time.
I thought the moves on Biceps Mou were excellent and it's also a Real Thing tick!
Noir Desir Gauche (Rampart) is very good, having fallen off the last move many times. Masters Edge (Buthiers Piscine) also looks sweet, but I haven't actually tried it.
-
Noir Desir Gauche (Rampart) is very good, having fallen off the last move many times.
Isn't this just avoiding the main event to the right?
-
Getting the psyche on for our trip at the end of March.
There's still plenty on that list to keep me occupied but I'd like to open the floor to suggestions at 7B. Anyone? Magic Bus and Carnage both look good but are listed on Bleau as being 7B+ - I thought they got 7B?
I was under the impression that Carnage is about 7B if you jump to start and pulling on adds the extra grade.
-
Onde de Choc should def be on
-
Noir Desir Gauche (Rampart) is very good, having fallen off the last move many times.
Isn't this just avoiding the main event to the right?
It's securing myself a spot on the main event ;)
Crazy Horse
Only worth doing if you're in the area IMHO
-
I think Onde de Choc is on from last year. I've been on that before and it felt really soft so will hopefully do that if we go to Apremont - the other thing I'd like to do there is the full orange circuit so that might make a nice semi-rest day.
Crazy Horse - I'm ambivalent. Played on it very briefly and thought it was a bit grotesque.
Noir Desir - That looks good. The folk I'm with might want to try the standard version so I could just have a go at the easier variant. Interesting that 36C says he dropped the last move - it looks like a hard start into a piss jug fest. Have I missed something?
Bleau's Art looks brilliant.
-
Master's Edge also looks good but some of the RH holds look suspiciously like the dreaded gratons to me. Not sure if this is the case or not but let us not forget that this thread is all about Skin Friendly and good, not just good.
-
I think Onde de Choc is on from last year. I've been on that before and it felt really soft so will hopefully do that if we go to Apremont - the other thing I'd like to do there is the full orange circuit so that might make a nice semi-rest day.
Crazy Horse - I'm ambivalent. Played on it very briefly and thought it was a bit grotesque.
Noir Desir - That looks good. The folk I'm with might want to try the standard version so I could just have a go at the easier variant. Interesting that 36C says he dropped the last move - it looks like a hard start into a piss jug fest. Have I missed something?
Bleau's Art looks brilliant.
Bleau's Art is really tricky.
Clandestino at Apremont and Megalight at Rocher St Germain are very good. Carnage isn't bad. Rencontre Platonique (I have no idea how to spell that) at Cuvier is quite interesting, if a touch soft.
Crazy Horse isn't great.
-
Another good one that comes to mind is les conquistadors at Rocher Greau, don't know how crimpy it is, or if good footwork get's you through it.
-
Noir Desir - That looks good. The folk I'm with might want to try the standard version so I could just have a go at the easier variant. Interesting that 36C says he dropped the last move - it looks like a hard start into a piss jug fest. Have I missed something?
*having fallen off the last hard move. It transpired that I was heel hooking the wrong place.
-
Just to add another to the list in the 7A grade. The recent addition of Je Te Veux at Isatis is pretty skin friendly and very good.
-
Master's Edge also looks good but some of the RH holds look suspiciously like the dreaded gratons to me. Not sure if this is the case or not but let us not forget that this thread is all about Skin Friendly and good, not just good.
Some very small crimps on Master's Edge. Very good tho. Quite high and landing sporting a few roots so a few pads required.
Bleau's Art is very Good.
Carnage is 7B+ even if you jump start.
Diversion at Drei Zinnen is the only 7B that I've done that fits your requirements. Board style pocket pulling.
-
Crazy horse is rubbish Will. Get on Marginal Droite at Apremont instead. Great slightly high one with nice slopes :)
-
Diversion at Drei Zinnen is the only 7B that I've done that fits your requirements. Board style pocket pulling.
RH start hold has snapped off this according to comments on Bleau.info - https://bleau.info/zinnen/396.html (https://bleau.info/zinnen/396.html), which will render it nails/impossible.
Was gutted when I saw this back in November as I'd dropped the last hard move on the previous trip, was hoping to get a quick first day tick :'(
-
https://bleau.info/beauvais/6726.html
This is one of the best problems I have done in font, the first couple of holds are a bit fierce but the footholds are good so you don't really weight them
-
Way out of my league, but L'angle parfait at Dame Jouanne looks as good as they come.
https://bleau.info/beauvais/6726.html
This is one of the best problems I have done in font, the first couple of holds are a bit fierce but the footholds are good so you don't really weight them
Both of those are excellent suggestions.
If you've got a knee pad you can annoy the locals by cheating Arabesque.
-
Wasn't all that impressed with Magic Bus when I saw it, but I may have just been bitter, as I was sporting a sprained ankle at the time.
Magic Bus is crap to look at, but great fun to climb. It's also worth mentioning that it's a definite option for wet/showery weather.
Edit: And in my opinion it's more 7B than 7B+, but I do like roofs...
-
Updated list with new 7B suggestions.
Franchard Isatis
Je Te Veux (https://bleau.info/isatis/301116.html) - 7A
La Memel (https://bleau.info/isatis/572.html) - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html) - 7A/+
Iceberg (raccourci) (https://bleau.info/isatis/941.html) - 7A+
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Franchard Sablons
Jokari (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html) - 7A/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Pensées Cachées (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/503.html) - 7B
Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne (https://bleau.info/cretesud/472.html) - 7B
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien (https://bleau.info/cretesud/11476.html) - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille (https://bleau.info/cretesud/3275.html) - 6C/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/sabots/782.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Jet Set (https://bleau.info/sabots/775.html) - 7A
Smash (https://bleau.info/sabots/771.html) - 7B
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html) - 7A
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html) - 6C
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Charcuterie (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1991.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1175.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Biceps Mou (https://bleau.info/cuvier/232.html) - 7B
Cuvier Merveille
Bleau's Art (https://bleau.info/merveille/1225.html) - 7B
Cuvier Rempart
Noir Desir Gauche (https://bleau.info/rempart/2248.html) - 7B
Rocher Saint-Germain
Mégalight (https://bleau.info/germain/431.html) - 7B
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Mémoire d'Outre-Tombe (https://bleau.info/fin/875.html) - 7A+
L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci) (https://bleau.info/fin/17735.html) - 6C+/7A
L'Oreille en Coin (assis) (https://bleau.info/fin/17023.html) - 6C+/7A
Boule de Gnôme (https://bleau.info/fin/1193.html) - 6C+/7A
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
Dame Jouanne
L'Angle Parfait (https://bleau.info/jouanne/376.html) - 7B
Rocher du Mauvais Passage
Peter Pan (https://bleau.info/passage/869.html) - 7B/+
Rocher Gréau
Les Conquistadores (https://bleau.info/greau/884.html) - 7B
Beauvais Nainville
Coup de Blue (https://bleau.info/beauvais/6726.html) - 6C+
-
Any more? Particularly interested in 7B targets at the larger venues.
-
Any more? Particularly interested in 7B targets at the larger venues.
Jeez, how long are you going for?!
-
Any more? Particularly interested in 7B targets at the larger venues.
Jeez, how long are you going for?!
:lol:
The idea is not to tick the whole list, but to have lots of good recommendations to choose from. So if you get to the crag and problem X is wet/crux slopers in full sun/otherwise not going to go, then there's plenty of choice to fall back on.
-
OK then, what you should really add then is e.g. "south facing, super quick drying and with an annoying tree root at its base" to e.g. Pancras and "the quickest drying problem in Le Foret" to L'Angle Bens etc.
In fact, a lot of those on that list are quick driers or stuff that's in condition a lot. Maybe not if it's warm.
Personally I'd focus in on a few of those. A problem I always have in Font is rushing around like a dog with two sticks trying this and that and not actually spending enough time on a problem to unlock the inevitable Fontainebleau 'tricks'. I don't reckon you need a longer list!!
-
Just stick to the red circuits
-
Just stick to the red circuits stuff you can lank
Fixed that for you!
-
Just stick to the red circuits stuff you can lank
Fixed that for you!
oooh goodie, the "how lanky is Will Hunt?" game is starting again :)
-
Just stick to the red circuits stuff you can lank
Fixed that for you!
oooh goodie, the "how lanky is Will Hunt?" game is starting again :)
It never gets old.
-
Glaring omission - TommyTwoTone mentioned it but it didn't get picked up on.
Attention Chef d'Œuvre (https://bleau.info/y/656.html) 7a 7a+ Buthiers Piscine
It's in my log-book 3 times and I don't normally log repeats so I must have thought it was really good to log it again.
Also Rataplat 7B (https://bleau.info/isatis/1731.html) at Isatis I thought was very good. I haven't check if that's been mentioned and dismissed.
-
I'll put them both on next time I do an update. Even if, for me personally, just looking at photos of Rataplat is enough to induce tears!
-
Even if, for me personally, just looking at photos of Rataplat is enough to induce tears!
Porquoi? Looks bon to me?
-
I like having a long list for Font - means you always have something to go at regardless of which crag the people you're sharing transport with want to go to.
A few bangers that I don't think have been mentioned, including some 7bs and plenty of dynos (obviously any of these can trash your skin if you almost do them them 50 times in an hour, but what doesn't) - but none of the below have sharp holds on:
Movement activated at Manoury - was wet when I went so didn't get on it but no sharp holds, also has an easier right had variant, both look ace.
Hard rock and at Mont Simonet - awesome, big, backwards dyno between huge holds, under a big capping overhang so stays dry in the rain.
Le triathlete at the same place is good too, has some small holds but they don't bite and you're static on them.
Manoury and Simonet are both close (easily walkable) to the Elephant/Dame Jouanne parking. Both can dry quite quickly.
Patience Yago at Rocher Greau is a nice (high but safely fall-offable) slab with no sharp holds. Close to Petit Bois.
Eden Roc at Boissy aux Cailles is amazing, good sidepulls and bad slopers but not many other problems there.
Reve de pierre out the back of rocher canon is very good, on big holds, slightly scary.
Deliverance at canon is a good, skin friendly slab, not far from Chasseur de prises.
Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique at Saint Germain is a very cool dyno off friendly holds up an arete. Video of this and megalight if you want beta: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/27201310465/in/dateposted-public/
Danseur at Rocher d'Avon is a very good deliverance-esque dyno off a poor foothold and friendly edge.
Le fissure a droite at the same crag is brilliant and on good holds all the way, but a bit scary and a tricky start.
Les cupules at cuvier est (near festin du pierre) is a nice arete/prow on friendly slopey sidepulls.
Atmosphere at cuvier est looks amazing, nice holds and I've heard it climbs very well, but not been on it.
Immodium at cuvier rempart is a good jump/slap on nice holds, you can also add a sitter for 7b, but the jump is the move you came for.
If you're at cuvier, pif-paf (onomatopoeic 2 hand dyno behind you if you're facing conque a doigts) is very good and on good big slopers. It's an eliminate, but a very good move.
Marginal droite at apremont (suggested further up) is very good on nice slopers, but needs a spot and a few pads.
Haka near crazy horse is good and on lovely holds.
Le gong at apremont desert is great and on good flat edges.
Une explosion de bonheur at isatis is a weird should't-be-hard dyno off reasonable sized flat undercuts and big footholds to a good top.
All the other dynos at isatis and cuisinere are pretty skin friendly and almost all are good.
All the dynos on the rainbow rocket block are good fun and skin friendly.
Mur lombard (near lapin ou canard) is very good and not sharp, worth doing if you're in the area.
Have fun.
-
Add rudeboy and sabots d'helene at 95.2 to that list as well.
-
Good heavens those look fantastic.
-
As a slight diversion, what is the score with Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels at Haute Plains. Bleau info has it at 7c, but several vids I have seen have it at 7a+ or something. Is it dependent on whether you go direct to the top hold or go via the arete on the right?
Any thoughts?
-
It's not 7A+ either way!
-
Mid trip update.
Updated list with new 7B suggestions.
Franchard Isatis
Je Te Veux (https://bleau.info/isatis/301116.html) - 7A
La Memel (https://bleau.info/isatis/572.html) - 7A+/B I did do this but it doesn't really fit the bill for this list. If you're doing the non-eliminate version then most of the holds are naughty crimps that could eat skin.
l'Angle Ben's (https://bleau.info/isatis/548.html) - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) (https://bleau.info/isatis/563.html) - 7A+
El Poussah (https://bleau.info/isatis/551.html) - 7A/+
Boule de Nerfs (https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html) - 7A/+
Iceberg (raccourci) (https://bleau.info/isatis/941.html) - 7A+
***NEW ENTRY***Little Karma (https://bleau.info/isatis/1544.html) - 6C. Dead nice.
***NEW ENTRY***Kangaroo City (https://bleau.info/isatis/993.html) - 7B. Nice dyno and not too tricky once you've sussed the beta.
***NEW ENTRY***Rataplat (https://bleau.info/isatis/1731.html) - 7B. It's not a great problem, but it is skin friendly and favours the tall.
Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard (https://bleau.info/plaines/1450.html) - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille (https://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html) - 6C/+
Franchard Sablons
Jokari (https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html) - 7A/+
Cuisinière
Undertow (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/10007.html) - 7A
Pensées Cachées (https://bleau.info/cuisiniere/503.html) - 7B
Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne (https://bleau.info/cretesud/472.html) - 7B
Beatle Juice (https://bleau.info/cretesud/476.html) - 7A+
Excalibur (https://bleau.info/cretesud/478.html) - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien (https://bleau.info/cretesud/11476.html) - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille (https://bleau.info/cretesud/3275.html) - 6C/+
Petit Bois
L'Oeuf (https://bleau.info/petit/8000.html) - 7B
La Baleine (https://bleau.info/petit/741.html) - 7A/+
Big Jim (https://bleau.info/petit/1536.html) - 6C
Apremont
Onde de Choc (https://bleau.info/apremont/46.html) - 7B
Egoiste (https://bleau.info/apremont/35.html) - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil (https://bleau.info/apremont/1171.html) - 7A
Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame (https://bleau.info/sabots/761.html) - 7A - I did this again twice. It's absolutely amazing! DO IT.
***NEW ENTRY***Le Flippeur (https://bleau.info/sabots/763.html) - 7A
Graviton (https://bleau.info/sabots/782.html) - 7A
Jeu du Toit (https://bleau.info/sabots/959.html) - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark (https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html) - 7A - Definitely doesn't fit the bill. The right hand hold chews skin. If you have to jump off the floor (as some shorties do) it would be horrific.
L'Oblique (https://bleau.info/sabots/767.html) - 7A/6C+
Jet Set (https://bleau.info/sabots/775.html) - 7A
Smash (https://bleau.info/sabots/771.html) - 7B
Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen (https://bleau.info/zen/1587.html) - 7A
Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien (https://bleau.info/cul/173.html) - 7A
Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/301.html) - 7A
Duroxmanie (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html) - 6C
***NEW ENTRY***Le Carré d'As (https://bleau.info/cuvierest/4142.html) - 6C+. OK, it's not perfectly skin friendly, but you don't have to pull that hard on the crimp and it's really a technique/body position problem - and it's an absolute king line. Well worth doing.
Cuvier
Araignee (https://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html) - 7A
Charcuterie (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1991.html) - 7A
Joker (https://bleau.info/cuvier/202.html) - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1175.html) - 7A
Holey Moley (https://bleau.info/cuvier/200.html) - 7A
La Conque à Doigts (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1099.html) - 7A
Biceps Mou (https://bleau.info/cuvier/232.html) - 7B
***NEW ENTRY***Cortomaltèse (https://bleau.info/cuvier/1065.html) - 6C-7A (depending on holds used). Not really a great problem in my opinion but it is widely regarded as a mega-classic. If you like big slappy yards between slopers then this is for you.
***NEW ENTRY***Le Carnage (https://bleau.info/cuvier/253.html) - 7B/+. The French start is listed as 7B in the guidebook and it's got some exquisite movement on it. The proper stand is where the 7B+ comes from.
Cuvier Merveille
Bleau's Art (https://bleau.info/merveille/1225.html) - 7B
Cuvier Rempart
Noir Desir Gauche (https://bleau.info/rempart/2248.html) - 7B
Rocher Saint-Germain
Mégalight (https://bleau.info/germain/431.html) - 7B
Mont Pivot
Pancras (https://bleau.info/pivot/699.html) - 7A
Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises (https://bleau.info/canon/804.html) - 7A
95.2
Le Yaniro (https://bleau.info/95.2/14.html) - 7A+
Indestructible (https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html) - 7A+
Tentation (https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html) - 7A
Retour aux Sources (https://bleau.info/95.2/5.html) - 7A
Elephant
La Voie Michaud (https://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html) - 6C
Maunoury
Rababoum (https://bleau.info/maunoury/19065.html) - 7A
Rocher Fin
Mémoire d'Outre-Tombe (https://bleau.info/fin/875.html) - 7A+
L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci) (https://bleau.info/fin/17735.html) - 6C+/7A
L'Oreille en Coin (assis) (https://bleau.info/fin/17023.html) - 6C+/7A
Boule de Gnôme (https://bleau.info/fin/1193.html) - 6C+/7A
Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit (https://bleau.info/houx/539.html) - 7A/+
Dame Jouanne
L'Angle Parfait (https://bleau.info/jouanne/376.html) - 7B
Rocher du Mauvais Passage
Peter Pan (https://bleau.info/passage/869.html) - 7B/+
Rocher Gréau
Les Conquistadores (https://bleau.info/greau/884.html) - 7B
Beauvais Nainville
Coup de Blue (https://bleau.info/beauvais/6726.html) - 6C+
-
you might as well add Little Karma Assis to the list
-
Any chance of modifying the list to include steep problems 7a-7c with good landings in child friendly spots for people with sore elbows?
Noir Desir and Gargantoit look amazing.
-
Big lock off on right arm undercut for Noir Desir. Might not be great for sore elbows?
-
I wouldn't exactly call Rempart child-friendly either.
-
Any chance of modifying the list to include steep problems 7a-7c with good landings in child friendly spots for people with sore elbows?
Maaargret!
-
I tried this the other day and it probably fits the bill.
La Porte du Temps 7a+
https://bleau.info/mee/11453.html
The start has a sharpish crimp but the move isn't too hard and you can easily avoid it to work the top half of the problem.
-
This fits the bill but I don't know what it is - anyone got any idea? It's at Apremont, marked as a B/W problem but with no number. It's behind the children's White 12, a few boulders over from Light Blue 8 Empire de Sens.
https://vimeo.com/213892126 (https://vimeo.com/213892126)