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Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+ (Read 47617 times)

highrepute

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#150 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
January 11, 2017, 08:18:30 pm
Master's Edge also looks good but some of the RH holds look suspiciously like the dreaded gratons to me. Not sure if this is the case or not but let us not forget that this thread is all about Skin Friendly and good, not just good.

Some very small crimps on Master's Edge. Very good tho. Quite high and landing sporting a few roots so a few pads required.

Bleau's Art is very Good.

Carnage is 7B+ even if you jump start.

Diversion at Drei Zinnen is the only 7B that I've done that fits your requirements. Board style pocket pulling.

Richie Crouch

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#151 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
January 11, 2017, 10:38:02 pm
Crazy horse is rubbish Will. Get on Marginal Droite at Apremont instead. Great slightly high one with nice slopes :)

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#152 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
January 12, 2017, 09:36:28 am
Diversion at Drei Zinnen is the only 7B that I've done that fits your requirements. Board style pocket pulling.

RH start hold has snapped off this according to comments on Bleau.info - https://bleau.info/zinnen/396.html, which will render it nails/impossible.
Was gutted when I saw this back in November as I'd dropped the last hard move on the previous trip, was hoping to get a quick first day tick  :'(

tim palmer

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#153 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
January 12, 2017, 09:41:55 am
https://bleau.info/beauvais/6726.html

This is one of the best problems I have done in font, the first couple of holds are a bit fierce but the footholds are good so you don't really weight them

205Chris

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#154 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
January 12, 2017, 01:40:02 pm
Way out of my league, but L'angle parfait at Dame Jouanne looks as good as they come.

https://bleau.info/beauvais/6726.html

This is one of the best problems I have done in font, the first couple of holds are a bit fierce but the footholds are good so you don't really weight them

Both of those are excellent suggestions.

If you've got a knee pad you can annoy the locals by cheating Arabesque.

WillRobertson

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#155 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
February 01, 2017, 12:04:26 pm
Wasn't all that impressed with Magic Bus when I saw it, but I may have just been bitter, as I was sporting a sprained ankle at the time.

Magic Bus is crap to look at, but great fun to climb. It's also worth mentioning that it's a definite option for wet/showery weather.

Edit: And in my opinion it's more 7B than 7B+, but I do like roofs...

Will Hunt

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#156 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2017, 10:38:52 pm
Updated list with new 7B suggestions.

Franchard Isatis
Je Te Veux - 7A
La Memel - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs - 7A/+
Iceberg (raccourci) - 7A+

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Franchard Sablons
Jokari - 7A/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A
Pensées Cachées - 7B

Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne - 7B
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille - 6C/+

Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C

Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+
Jet Set - 7A
Smash - 7B

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen - 7A

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A

Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Charcuterie - 7A
Joker - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A
Biceps Mou - 7B

Cuvier Merveille
Bleau's Art - 7B

Cuvier Rempart
Noir Desir Gauche - 7B

Rocher Saint-Germain
Mégalight - 7B

Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A

Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A

95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Indestructible - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A

Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C

Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A

Rocher Fin
Mémoire d'Outre-Tombe - 7A+
L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci) - 6C+/7A
L'Oreille en Coin (assis) - 6C+/7A
Boule de Gnôme - 6C+/7A

Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+

Dame Jouanne
L'Angle Parfait - 7B

Rocher du Mauvais Passage
Peter Pan - 7B/+

Rocher Gréau
Les Conquistadores - 7B

Beauvais Nainville
Coup de Blue - 6C+

Will Hunt

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#157 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 12:48:21 pm
Any more? Particularly interested in 7B targets at the larger venues.

T_B

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#158 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 01:12:42 pm
Any more? Particularly interested in 7B targets at the larger venues.

Jeez, how long are you going for?!

Will Hunt

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#159 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 01:19:10 pm
Any more? Particularly interested in 7B targets at the larger venues.

Jeez, how long are you going for?!

 :lol:

The idea is not to tick the whole list, but to have lots of good recommendations to choose from. So if you get to the crag and problem X is wet/crux slopers in full sun/otherwise not going to go, then there's plenty of choice to fall back on.

T_B

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#160 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 02:03:54 pm
OK then, what you should really add then is e.g. "south facing, super quick drying and with an annoying tree root at its base" to e.g. Pancras and "the quickest drying problem in Le Foret" to L'Angle Bens etc.

In fact, a lot of those on that list are quick driers or stuff that's in condition a lot. Maybe not if it's warm.

Personally I'd focus in on a few of those. A problem I always have in Font is rushing around like a dog with two sticks trying this and that and not actually spending enough time on a problem to unlock the inevitable Fontainebleau 'tricks'. I don't reckon you need a longer list!!

36chambers

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#161 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 02:23:41 pm
Just stick to the red circuits

tommytwotone

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#162 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 04:33:24 pm
Just stick to the red circuits stuff you can lank


Fixed that for you!


Coops_13

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#163 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 07:35:09 pm
Just stick to the red circuits stuff you can lank


Fixed that for you!
oooh goodie, the "how lanky is Will Hunt?" game is starting again   :)

Will Hunt

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#164 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 07, 2017, 11:40:59 pm
Just stick to the red circuits stuff you can lank


Fixed that for you!
oooh goodie, the "how lanky is Will Hunt?" game is starting again   :)

It never gets old.

highrepute

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#165 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 08, 2017, 10:52:33 am
Glaring omission - TommyTwoTone mentioned it but it didn't get picked up on.

Attention Chef d'Œuvre 7a 7a+ Buthiers Piscine

It's in my log-book 3 times and I don't normally log repeats so I must have thought it was really good to log it again.

Also Rataplat 7B at Isatis I thought was very good. I haven't check if that's been mentioned and dismissed.

Will Hunt

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#166 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 08, 2017, 12:12:11 pm
I'll put them both on next time I do an update. Even if, for me personally, just looking at photos of Rataplat is enough to induce tears!

SA Chris

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#167 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 08, 2017, 05:56:16 pm
Even if, for me personally, just looking at photos of Rataplat is enough to induce tears!

Porquoi? Looks bon to me?

nic mullin

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#168 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 08, 2017, 11:56:15 pm
I like having a long list for Font - means you always have something to go at regardless of which crag the people you're sharing transport with want to go to.

A few bangers that I don't think have been mentioned, including some 7bs and plenty of dynos (obviously any of these can trash your skin if you almost do them them 50 times in an hour, but what doesn't) - but none of the below have sharp holds on:

Movement activated at Manoury - was wet when I went so didn't get on it but no sharp holds, also has an easier right had variant, both look ace.

Hard rock and at Mont Simonet - awesome, big, backwards dyno between huge holds, under a big capping overhang so stays dry in the rain.
Le triathlete at the same place is good too, has some small holds but they don't bite and you're static on them.

Manoury and Simonet are both close (easily walkable) to the Elephant/Dame Jouanne parking. Both can dry quite quickly.

Patience Yago at Rocher Greau is a nice (high but safely fall-offable) slab with no sharp holds. Close to Petit Bois.

Eden Roc at Boissy aux Cailles is amazing, good sidepulls and bad slopers but not many other problems there.

Reve de pierre out the back of rocher canon is very good, on big holds, slightly scary.
Deliverance at canon is a good, skin friendly slab, not far from Chasseur de prises.

Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique at Saint Germain is a very cool dyno off friendly holds up an arete. Video of this and megalight if you want beta: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/27201310465/in/dateposted-public/

Danseur at Rocher d'Avon is a very good deliverance-esque dyno off a poor foothold and friendly edge.
Le fissure a droite at the same crag is brilliant and on good holds all the way, but a bit scary and a tricky start.

Les cupules at cuvier est (near festin du pierre) is a nice arete/prow on friendly slopey sidepulls.
Atmosphere at cuvier est looks amazing, nice holds and I've heard it climbs very well, but not been on it.
 
Immodium at cuvier rempart is a good jump/slap on nice holds, you can also add a sitter for 7b, but the jump is the move you came for. 
If you're at cuvier, pif-paf (onomatopoeic 2 hand dyno behind you if you're facing conque a doigts) is very good and on good big slopers. It's an eliminate, but a very good move.

Marginal droite at apremont (suggested further up) is very good on nice slopers, but needs a spot and a few pads.
Haka near crazy horse is good and on lovely holds.
Le gong at apremont desert is great and on good flat edges.

Une explosion de bonheur at isatis is a weird should't-be-hard dyno off reasonable sized flat undercuts and big footholds to a good top.

All the other dynos at isatis and cuisinere are pretty skin friendly and almost all are good.

All the dynos on the rainbow rocket block are good fun and skin friendly.

Mur lombard (near lapin ou canard) is very good and not sharp, worth doing if you're in the area.

Have fun.

nic mullin

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#169 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 09, 2017, 09:29:47 am
Add rudeboy and sabots d'helene at 95.2 to that list as well.

Will Hunt

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#170 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 10, 2017, 12:25:35 pm
Good heavens those look fantastic.

erm, sam

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#171 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 10, 2017, 05:37:27 pm
As a slight diversion, what is the score with Deux Faux Plis en Plats Réels at Haute Plains. Bleau info has it at 7c, but several vids I have seen have it at 7a+ or something. Is it dependent on whether you go direct to the top hold or go via the arete on the right?

Any thoughts?

Duma

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#172 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 10, 2017, 05:45:46 pm
It's not 7A+ either way!

Will Hunt

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#173 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 23, 2017, 06:50:39 pm
Mid trip update.

Updated list with new 7B suggestions.

Franchard Isatis
Je Te Veux - 7A
La Memel - 7A+/B I did do this but it doesn't really fit the bill for this list. If you're doing the non-eliminate version then most of the holds are naughty crimps that could eat skin.
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+
Boule de Nerfs - 7A/+
Iceberg (raccourci) - 7A+
***NEW ENTRY***Little Karma - 6C. Dead nice.
***NEW ENTRY***Kangaroo City - 7B. Nice dyno and not too tricky once you've sussed the beta.
***NEW ENTRY***Rataplat - 7B. It's not a great problem, but it is skin friendly and favours the tall.



Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Franchard Sablons
Jokari - 7A/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A
Pensées Cachées - 7B

Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne - 7B
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille - 6C/+

Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C

Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A - I did this again twice. It's absolutely amazing! DO IT.
***NEW ENTRY***Le Flippeur - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A - Definitely doesn't fit the bill. The right hand hold chews skin. If you have to jump off the floor (as some shorties do) it would be horrific.
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+
Jet Set - 7A
Smash - 7B

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen - 7A

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A

Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C
***NEW ENTRY***Le Carré d'As - 6C+. OK, it's not perfectly skin friendly, but you don't have to pull that hard on the crimp and it's really a technique/body position problem - and it's an absolute king line. Well worth doing.

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Charcuterie - 7A
Joker - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A
Biceps Mou - 7B
***NEW ENTRY***Cortomaltèse - 6C-7A (depending on holds used). Not really a great problem in my opinion but it is widely regarded as a mega-classic. If you like big slappy yards between slopers then this is for you.
***NEW ENTRY***Le Carnage - 7B/+. The French start is listed as 7B in the guidebook and it's got some exquisite movement on it. The proper stand is where the 7B+ comes from.


Cuvier Merveille
Bleau's Art - 7B

Cuvier Rempart
Noir Desir Gauche - 7B

Rocher Saint-Germain
Mégalight - 7B

Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A

Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A

95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Indestructible - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A

Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C

Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A

Rocher Fin
Mémoire d'Outre-Tombe - 7A+
L'Auvent Tripotant (raccourci) - 6C+/7A
L'Oreille en Coin (assis) - 6C+/7A
Boule de Gnôme - 6C+/7A

Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+

Dame Jouanne
L'Angle Parfait - 7B

Rocher du Mauvais Passage
Peter Pan - 7B/+

Rocher Gréau
Les Conquistadores - 7B

Beauvais Nainville
Coup de Blue - 6C+

lagerstarfish

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#174 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 23, 2017, 09:44:31 pm
you might as well add Little Karma Assis to the list

 

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