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power club / Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024
« Last post by Duma on Today at 05:50:31 pm »M - 12 hr shift
T - eve, Cheddar, Lion Rock. Opened account on Lions Pride 8a, shares the finish of Lion Sleeps Tonight so hoping to take advantage of having that fresh in the memory. First go warming up getting clips in, only went as far as the Shadow Walker undercuts. More pumpy but easier moves than LST. Second go got through to undercuts but struggled to recover. Eventually got enough back to push on to the aręte but quickly powered out before the final clip. Third go a shambles, knobbed the middle sequence horribly and had to fight really hard just to make the undercuts. Got something back and managed to reach the aręte but dropped it a couple of moves earlier than previous go.
W - woke feeling really hungover, after two pints! Maybe dehydration? Eve TCA, 120 min. Mostly new stuff, mostly slabby or vert. 12 problems 6B to 7B ish. Did 10, 3 flash, should have flashed a couple more, but none of them took too long. Also pleased to make progress on a black in the roof, got round the lip for the first time but knackered by then and couldn't do the easier finishing moves.
T - Feeling pretty broken but lovely day and Adam was keen to get out. Cheddar, Lion Rock. Really hot but the shade gradually came round and breeze kept it bearable. Rock Junky 7a+ to warm up, took a couple of goes and a bit rubbish. Then dogged up LST to get clips in and show Adam some beta. Finally a bit cooler so got on Lions Pride, refined a few things up to the undercuts and worked out a bit of a knee bar to improve the rest, not by as much as hoped though. Second go went well, pretty smooth to the undercuts, didn't recover very well but got to the aręte and made it a couple of moves further than Tuesday, not quite into position to clip the last bolt though. Third go tank was already empty, fell going to the peg. Good day despite not having many beans, with lower section dialled and a new high point. Adam got LST 2nd go too, impressive how much margin he seemed to have on the moves.
F - lunch, run, 7k hilly trail. Didn't time it but hot and slow. Stoke park looking lush in the sunshine though.
S - am Perch Quarry, newish venue for easy sport on the way to Cheddar. First time for me, nice spot to enjoy the sunshine and warm up, 6 routes: More to Share 6a (good), Here Comes The Son 6a (okay), Jolly Roger 6a (okay), Tall Dark and Gruesome 6a+ (lovely), Put Away Those Fiery Biscuits 6c (good), A Lady From Ireland With Flame Red Hair 7a+ (okay). All flashed. Then on to Cheddar, the plan was to get back on Lions Pride but there was already 3 people on LST/Circus Circus so we settled for a little traveled but pleasantly punchy 7a+ further up the gorge, Teenage Riot. 3rd go and a tough little boulder crux.
S - parenting
71.5 kg.
T - eve, Cheddar, Lion Rock. Opened account on Lions Pride 8a, shares the finish of Lion Sleeps Tonight so hoping to take advantage of having that fresh in the memory. First go warming up getting clips in, only went as far as the Shadow Walker undercuts. More pumpy but easier moves than LST. Second go got through to undercuts but struggled to recover. Eventually got enough back to push on to the aręte but quickly powered out before the final clip. Third go a shambles, knobbed the middle sequence horribly and had to fight really hard just to make the undercuts. Got something back and managed to reach the aręte but dropped it a couple of moves earlier than previous go.
W - woke feeling really hungover, after two pints! Maybe dehydration? Eve TCA, 120 min. Mostly new stuff, mostly slabby or vert. 12 problems 6B to 7B ish. Did 10, 3 flash, should have flashed a couple more, but none of them took too long. Also pleased to make progress on a black in the roof, got round the lip for the first time but knackered by then and couldn't do the easier finishing moves.
T - Feeling pretty broken but lovely day and Adam was keen to get out. Cheddar, Lion Rock. Really hot but the shade gradually came round and breeze kept it bearable. Rock Junky 7a+ to warm up, took a couple of goes and a bit rubbish. Then dogged up LST to get clips in and show Adam some beta. Finally a bit cooler so got on Lions Pride, refined a few things up to the undercuts and worked out a bit of a knee bar to improve the rest, not by as much as hoped though. Second go went well, pretty smooth to the undercuts, didn't recover very well but got to the aręte and made it a couple of moves further than Tuesday, not quite into position to clip the last bolt though. Third go tank was already empty, fell going to the peg. Good day despite not having many beans, with lower section dialled and a new high point. Adam got LST 2nd go too, impressive how much margin he seemed to have on the moves.
F - lunch, run, 7k hilly trail. Didn't time it but hot and slow. Stoke park looking lush in the sunshine though.
S - am Perch Quarry, newish venue for easy sport on the way to Cheddar. First time for me, nice spot to enjoy the sunshine and warm up, 6 routes: More to Share 6a (good), Here Comes The Son 6a (okay), Jolly Roger 6a (okay), Tall Dark and Gruesome 6a+ (lovely), Put Away Those Fiery Biscuits 6c (good), A Lady From Ireland With Flame Red Hair 7a+ (okay). All flashed. Then on to Cheddar, the plan was to get back on Lions Pride but there was already 3 people on LST/Circus Circus so we settled for a little traveled but pleasantly punchy 7a+ further up the gorge, Teenage Riot. 3rd go and a tough little boulder crux.
S - parenting
71.5 kg.
. Managed quite a good a great sight of it and left at stayed until 1am.