UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => shootin' the shit => Topic started by: Grubes on December 22, 2015, 12:59:52 pm
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The previous lists:
Aims for 2008 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8416)
Aims for 2009 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10711)
Aims for 2010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13192)
Aims for 2011 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16685)
Aims for 2012 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19228)
Aims for 2013 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21363.0.html)
Aims for 2014 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23430.0.html)
Aims for 2015 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,25121.0.html)
Okay I will go first.
With a significant birthday approaching and getting back to enjoying my climbing.
Climb a sport 7 again
Try an 8a
Font 7A its about time!
Climb some trad E2/3 would be cool
Go on a summer climbing holiday for my birthday some where fun with some mates
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Alright, I'm in this year just so that I have something to look back at this time next year.
Bouldering: Breakthrough my long, long term plateau of 7B. I'm lacking inspiration of suitable local projects. Maybe Sabotage 8A.
Sport: F7b+ onsight. Up a plus from my current peak. Plus a load of 7a+ and 7b onsights would be nice. (fatten the pyramid)
Winter: Have some quality days in Scotland. I'm operating at a higher level than when I left Scotland, so loads of classics to go at.
Trad: Consolidate E4 onsighting and get on loads of quality E5s, with improved pacing and tactics. My head was good in the autumn, so long may that continue. Maybe hit Fair Head, Lewis/Hebrides for some big fun trad. Oh, just remembered a far fetched plan. I'm going to join a mate working Requiem at Dumby. Just to see...just to see...
For once I have few trips planned, so a bit of a grade focussed, rather than objective focussed year.
Outside of climbing. Fix all injures. Smash in my Masters with a solid distinction. Get a job/set up a company. Not much eh?
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Routes: more than last year's abysmal showing, so an 8a in the Peak would be nice.
Trad: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Should I hit trowbarrow then??
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Numbers, numbers and do some more numbers.
Actually.
1. Climb outside of Scotland, and the UK, as much as possible.
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In 2015 I set no aims - and despite missing most of the first three months through injury have had one of my best years to date. So I'm tempted to set no aims for 2016....
Maybe we could have a less aspirational thread like "stuff I'd like to do in 2016 - but it doesn't really matter" :)
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Should I hit trowbarrow then??
Iron Man (8A SS to vitruvian man) was decided by the UKB collective mind to be my ideal first 8A to aim for... Shame I can't get near the first move on Vitruvian Man :D
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Should I hit trowbarrow then??
Iron Man (8A SS to vitruvian man) was decided by the UKB collective mind to be my ideal first 8A to aim for... Shame I can't get near the first move on Vitruvian Man :D
I can't get near the first move on Iron man. The first move on Vitruvian is knacky, not hard. It can't be hard, I've done it.
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Should I hit trowbarrow then??
Probably a good idea.
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What's the knack Andy? Heel around to the rh corner? I never got my lf anywhere comfortable really - felt hard getting long arms and legs in the right place.
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I go outside LF on the polished edge and right toe behind the boss/flake.
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I think my aims are a bit unrealistic, so I'm including two tiers on the sport climbing:
RP 7c - pretty unlikely so...
RP 7b+ - I'd be really happy with this
A good amount of 7A's (5-15?) 7A+ would be an overachievement I think :)
Be strict with my antags & control my chronic issues
If my emphasis shifts back to trad climbing - onsight/flash E4s
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main: sport 8a+ or 8b. Ideally a route i've tried in past years...choucas, l'ami de tout le monde, abrčgenief, etc...
secondary:
font 8a???
crack 7c or more?
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I have two aims for 2016:
Rain. Dogs.
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I have two aims for 2016:
Rain. Dogs.
Well the first should be easy...
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Stop hating on the rain, geez
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Alpine/trad goal: a couple of decent summer trips on alpine rock routes and/or uk trad.
Having trad or alpine ambitions is pointless for me at the moment. I simply don't have the time free in the summer. Too many family commitments in the UK. My dad died last year, my mum moved into a home this year and on the more positive side, my son loves spending time with my brother & sister. So I've spent the bulk of my summer holidays over there for the last couple of years and will do for the foreseeable future. That leaves only a few weekends per summer free for alpine adventures, and then the weather is a huge random factor. I simply won't realistically get the mileage in to improve or aspire. So I'll accept being only an occasional alpinist, do whatever I get done and be happy.
At the other end of the scale I'm not particularly motivated to pursue bouldering as an end in itself (sorry ukb). Which leaves: sport climbing.
I've thought for a while about going public with this, but what the hell, here goes:
BHAG: 8a by 60. Five years time. When I started climbing, Grand Illusion was probably the only 8a - and therefore the hardest route - in the world. I never would have imagined then that it would be possible for me to climb that grade. But it could be. (Not that route though)
2016: 7b
Bit long winded, sorry. Not as long winded as last year.
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Should I hit trowbarrow then??
Iron Man (8A SS to vitruvian man) was decided by the UKB collective mind to be my ideal first 8A to aim for... Shame I can't get near the first move on Vitruvian Man :D
Also it's only 7c+
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No particular order of importance, but the causal relationships between these items will probably dictate the chronological order in which they are achieved - could be an all or nothing year.
- loose at least a stone in weight (13st 8lb ish now)
- boulder harder than 7B+ for the first time
- stay motivated
- sustain very happy relationship
as per 2008
except that I'm over 15st again
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Climb harder than before, especially on grit. Do something truly memorable at Gogarth and on Lakes/Welsh mountain cliffs.
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A fairly long list, but every item looks achievable idividually. We'll see if I get the full house.
1. Climb 8b before the end of summer.
2. Onsight 8a
3. Don't get injured
4. Have more time for friends and others at the crag - in other words, more empathy required.
5. Reduce the OCD behavior regarding studying, routine etc and be more open to new ideas in general.
6. Try to have a meaningful relationship (goes hand in hand with 4 and 5). :wub:
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1. Rehab volar plate sufficiently that it's not an issue on my big trip. Avoid significant injury on said trip.
2. Australia - Groove Train, Punks in the Gym, Tiger Cat, do a fuck load of climbing, run over a kangaroo, jam my thumb in a snake's buthole (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9nbJnEpG0w)
3. South Africa - Do a fuck load of climbing
4. America - Livin' Astro, the rad looking 8b+/8cs at the New, Lucifer, Golden Ticket?, Do a fuck load of climbing
5. General shit - get back to form, onsight 8bs, onsight/flash 8b+
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OK here goes:
1. Usual goal of staying injury free and climbing lots while not neglecting family life too much.
2. Climb lots of E4s and E5s. Five E5s onsight would be good (I've never managed more than a couple per year previously). If things are going well maybe try and onsight E6?
3. La Creme (7c+) at Ansteys. Got really close this year then it got too warm.
4. Visit a new area. Swanage and/or Pembroke hopefully. Loads of stuff I'd like to do at both.
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1. Don't get injured again
2. Font 8B!
3. Try sport climbing more.....
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Try to avoid convention
Do the Tosheroon
Do the Marchlyn project
Rebalance my body
Do something surprises me
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Aims for 2016:
Continue strict rehab for tennis elbow + build back lost pulling power
look into moving closer to real rock (anyone got any suggestions? Manchester? Sheffield?)
Climb Downhill Racer, Wings of Unreason and The Mutant
Climb a 7b indoors
Try to keep the beginners mind and have as much fun as possible ;D
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I have two aims for 2016:
Rain. Dogs.
Me too!
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1. Isles of Wonder
2. Pool of Bethesda
3. Get a new extension & bathroom
4. Sort out the main bedroom
5. Grow some decent crops (weather permitting!)
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General:
Keep up the antagonistic training
Start a structured training programme again.
Sort out job.
Sport:
RP 3 7cs
Try something harder than 7c
Trad:
Onsight 5 E5s
Flash or Onsight E6
Do more routes which I find hard/scary: Roofs, exposed corners, jamming cracks.
Climb on Sea Cliffs for the first time
Headpoint something e6 or above which is near my physical limit
Bouldering:
Get back in to bouldering, do more 7bs (same as last year!)
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Climb on Sea Cliffs for the first time
2016 will be a year to remember for you then, best thing about this island
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1. Climb Bat Route and/or Indian Summer.
2. Boulder >= 7C+
3. Climb a trad route on the trad route bucket list.
4. DWS something good.
5. Climb something big in Europe (Dolomites/Naranja de Bulnes).
6. Climb a classic Euro sport route (hopefully Tom et je ris).
7. Go self employed.
8. Move to Spain.
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1. Rehab injuries to the point they don't affect my climbing: Fucked left shoulder, perma-fucked left ring finger & 2x dodgy knees
2. Complete at least 2 of the new routes I've already scoped out/bolted/cleaned: 2x Devil's Gorge, 2x Yorkshire & 2x Pen Trwyn
3. Maintain current continental OS level and push on to doing the double, i.e. 2x f8a in a day (guess i need another Chulilla trip!?)
4. Move out of/change current role at work to escape politik bullshit: lubricant co-engineering with OEMs appeals atm
5. Maintain a significant relationship whilst doing all above
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4. Move out of/change current role at work to escape politik bullshit: lubricant co-engineering with OEMs appeals atm
You know the Reckitt Benckiser headquarters is in Slough? Terrible place to live!
Let me add one for you...
5. Maintain a significant relationship whilst doing all above
6. Tom et je ris
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Main goal is the usual: E5. This year's twist, do it before 7th June.
7b RP (Clashing Socks, Empire of the Sun, Still Waters Run Deep). Get on a 7b+.
Climb at Gogarth and Fairhead.
Climb at Font. at least once.
Rabada-Navarro +1 other at Naranjo de Bulnes
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives. Several tentative plans but always interested in keen partners or new ideas for this sort of thing.
Keep doing shoulder and other supportive exercises assiduously.
Try hard enough, often enough, to fall off at least one trad. route.
4. Visit a new area. Swanage and/or Pembroke hopefully. Loads of stuff I'd like to do at both.
It's an hour and a bit further to Pembroke but so worth the extra drive.
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4. Visit a new area. Swanage and/or Pembroke hopefully. Loads of stuff I'd like to do at both.
It's an hour and a bit further to Pembroke but so worth the extra drive.
So everyone tells me! I really fancy Polaris, Mother Africa and Freeborn Man though, and Swanage is on the cusp of almost being day trip-able. Mind you, Hunterman's Leap does look awesome ...
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1. Return to route climbing as main focus
2. Do some 8bs
3. Climb abroad x 3
4. Dont get fired from new job
5. Be less of a prick
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Should I hit trowbarrow then??
Iron Man (8A SS to vitruvian man) was decided by the UKB collective mind to be my ideal first 8A to aim for... Shame I can't get near the first move on Vitruvian Man :D
Also it's only 7c+
Original sequence was 8A though. Now people don't stay direct it's 7c+. Apparently.
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1. Fix my broken ankle
2.do physio properly
3.keep the weight off and get climbing again
4.get back on the motherboard
5.get back on rings
6.climb at least 4 7C or harder.
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1. Fix my broken ankle
2.do physio properly
3.keep the weight off and get climbing again
4.get back on the motherboard
5.get back on rings
6.climb at least 4 7C or harder.
Knowing you word, I'd say they're all inevitable, especially 6.
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8A.
At least one Font trip.
Get married. Survive wedding.
Make decision as to where my wife-to-be and I will be living.
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Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives. Several tentative plans but always interested in keen partners or new ideas for this sort of thing.
Oberreintal in July? Am heading up there (this year it's happening for real) with some mates from the DAV. The more the merrier.
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Ah go on I'll get involved. Some of these would be good, all of them and I'd be stoked.
1. Over the winter, V6/7 at home, in Albarracin and in Bishop. Try V8 at home some point. Some sort of hardish winter sport project - cuttings or whatever. Fighting torque maybe?
2. Actually get on Infinite Gravity. Maybe also try Fuel my Fire, Cider Soak and some harder Portland ticks (mainly west coast high 7s)
3. "Short trip" 8a send. If I can get an onsighting trip organised, try to break through into 7b+/c territory.
4. Trad. Get my mojo back, get back onto some E4s and have a decent go at an E5.
5. This, and be actually on my mental and physical game for it this time
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
6. Build on last year's reintroduction to dws, get some obvious Swanage and Devon classics done and push the boat out a bit at Lulworth - 7b+ or more?
7. Buy a house, continue to get on well at work, complete other goals (cycling). Try to make various potential reunions with far flung road trip friends come about.
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*In an ideal world* do my proj in decent time and spend the rest of the year doing easier stuff and climbing at different crags aka: having a nice time. *all dependent on work, injury and wetness*
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Aims...pretty similar to last year (unsurprising really given my lack of real progress in life and climbing!)
in no particular order
CLIMBING
1) Try harder to get out bouldering before the limestone sport starts - too many wet days have robbed me of the mojo to even bother dragging the mats into the car, let alone properly project anything - anything off the grit tick list would be a bonus.
2) Keep up the new-found enjoyment of finger-boarding - once, preferably twice, a week - more for contrast/relief from work than any real aim at improving my climbing.
3) Continue to work through the usual suspects at Malham / Kilnsey. Next up: GBH (onto The Groove or Overnite if successful). At Kilnsey, either one of the long extensions at the left side (Bullet or Stolen), or embrace the likelihood of years-long failure and get on Grooved Arete.
4) Climb something "substantial" not at Malham or Kilnsey - preferably Supercool at Gordale, or maybe something at Yew Cogar or Chapel or Giggleswick.
NON-CLIMBING
5) Keep trying to re-balance the work/life balance - work smarter during office hours and reduce the slightly needless number of late nights in the office (taking up finger-boarding has been somewhat successful in encouraging this).
6) Drink booze less often.
7) Spend less nights titting about on the internet and more time reading books or watching decent films.
8 Go to some live events - comedy, music, football, theatre, boxing, whatever - try to experience less of the stuff I purport to love filtered through a screen.
Edit: realised whilst writing the above that I am drinking a single malt (Tamdhu batch strength.. not bad... like a less fierce Aberlour A'bunadh really but none the worse), after a longish day at work, and whilst (obviously, given I am writing this) titting about on the internet - so failing (5), (6) and (7) already! Though in mitigation, I have had a pretty fierce finger-board session (despite lingering flu that had left me exhausted for nearly two weeks), and am watching a film. Not much hope for any bouldering over the festive period mind.... will it ever stop raining?! I suspect these aims will roll over until next year!
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1. Keep up with increasing trad confidence.
2. Onsight more E5s and break into doing E6s ground up
3. 8a Sport- find a good one that inspires.
4. Get stronger.
5. Stop eating so much food, and find the motivation to fight sugar addiction.
6. Get a job which isn't soul destroying.
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There is a hell of a lot of get-a-new-job / alter-approach-to-current job in this thread isn't there? Myself included.
Work truly is the curse of the climbing classes.....
That said, be true to yourself: I was a shit academic / wage slave before I was a shit a shit climber (late starter). Pay off the mortgage, odd nice holiday; try to ignore the vast majority of the year spent miserable, worn-out, and wincing whenever my phone bleeps to say I have a work email.
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I'd wanted to do three 7Cs this year, but only did two. So I'll restart that goal in Jan. Ultimate goal is 7C+, and not a shit one. And to get to some more cool new spots around the country.
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RETIRE.
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from work, right?
not from bouldering?
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from work, right?
not from bouldering?
How could I even think about stopping climbing after all its only been part of my life for 43 years. However work has been part of my life for 45 years and all I can think is stopping.
Strange really.
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1. Do my Harmer's project.
2. Move to the US
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1. Be able to climb without pain
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Think you should throw in a multi-pitch 5.12 on the Chief, a concerted effort at embracing local bouldering and a visit to Smith
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Climb Arch Enemies/New Dawn/Raindogs/Pierrepoint
Get on Supercool and K3
Do something of relative merit in Siurana at Easter
Get down to the South West more (Ansteys, Brean, Cheddar etc)
Rein in back in and climb classic E3 routes all over and become a competent and safe climber, been the butt of the joke for too long and it's funny up until I tool myself.
Enjoy bouldering, I.e. get out and have fun on circuits with a good team. Get on Suavito ffs!
General:
Don't fuck it up
Keep saving
See family more
Apply self at new job
Ride a horse
Get Nige on hard sport (the 3rd reincarnation of Kershaw)
Good luck everyone
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Hello chaps,
2015 was pretty good - I lost weight and got in shape. Climbed a bunch of 7As and a single 7B which was no doubt over-graded. But have slacked off the last three months since then.
Aims for 2016 are toget in even better shape and train with discipline, so no binge training/dieting and then binge slacking. Aiming for consistency. Actually plan and record training, not just messing about.
Success will be signified by getting properly light (BMI of 20) as a means to an end of climbing several 7Bs and maybe even harder.
Good luck everyone with your aims.
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1. Oak. Be in shape for final summit push in the Spring
2. Open accounts on Bat Route and/or Mecca (sorry)
3. Get weight down to sub 11 from end of Jan onwards / cut down on booze
4. Read a novel a month – regain reading habit
5. Watch a classic film with my eldest once a month
6. For Tommy to redpoint Raindogs
7. Ambitious family trip in Summer again (Squamish again or South Africa or the States)
8. 5x1 week away (non-family) climbing trips (Chulilla, Fairhead, Pembroke and two more)
9. Tick off at least 3 outstanding projects: Anger Management, Jericho Road, Rattle and Hump, eatswood Reverse, Brad Pit, Blind Date, Kudos, Bens Roof
10. Increase absolute crimp and drag strength by 5kg
11. Onsight attempt Reproduction at High Tor
12. Put up a new hard sport and trad route
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Sort out injured knee (meniscal tear) then:
7C on peak lime
7C+ on peak grit
8a on peak lime
Multiple personal training goals.
DIY goals: I move into a new house in Jan so will have a woody and a garden to build.
I'm also getting married in August so have significant stag do goals!
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- Get stuck in to a proper project
- ...but get it done within the year (preferably without too much weeping at the bottom of the crag, sacrificing of first born children etc.)
- Trips to font, buoux, fairhead, mallorca, chorro
- Try to keep the font ticklist under control (preferably by ticking off large parts of it)
- Get scared on some DWS (preferably towards the top of adrenochrome)
- Cutlass
- Wizard of Oz, if I can get keen enough for another go
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1. Keep injuries at bay and hence capitalise on winter training better than last year.
2. Do some 8s.
3. Finish off Caviar.
4. Do some bouldering trips in either UK or Font.
5. Ideally get to alps, do some 4000m peaks.
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1. Go to Railay and get strong on limestone.
2. BM my way through February.
3. Tick off some of my ever growing project list...Travaux forcé and Gigi being the ones I want the most.
4. Stay uninjured.
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Rein in back in and climb classic E3 routes all over and become a competent and safe climber, been the butt of the joke for too long and it's funny up until I tool myself
Very proud of you for this one VG! Although we all joke we do all want you back in the pub with us after a day's trading too! Once you can fiddle in wires like bubbles you'll be able to lash all you like as far as I'm concerned (except on choss)
Psyched for more days out climbing together!
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And through my crystal ball the haze clears to reveal...
Aims for 2026
1. Mecca. Be in shape for final summit push in the Spring
2. Open accounts on Raining Bats and Dogs and/or Mecca Extension (sorry)
3. Get weight down to sub 11 from end of Jan onwards / cut down on booze
......
ad infinitum
;D
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Think you should throw in a multi-pitch 5.12 on the Chief, a concerted effort at embracing local bouldering and a visit to Smith
Yes, to Smith, for sure (and Yosemite and the RRG and ...) but my freedom to travel is inextricably bound up with aim #1.
The next route in the Squamish multi-pitch progression is Uinversity Wall but that's a fair bit harder and more serious than Freeway. I am actually keener just to do Freeway again.
You neatly sidestepped Shark's second point there.
I'd happily do Freeway if you need a rope handler...
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11. Onsight attempt Reproduction at High Tor
would you like advice on one piece of gear to take? F6c?! (seriously)
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Sort out irritating niggly collateral ligament tweak which I stupidly retweaked yesterday, and then:
Trad:
Onsight 5 E5s after a few years of neglecting trad almost altogether, ideally Extreme Rock ones.
Climb E6 (again).
Get out in Scotland.
Sport:
Overnight Sensation, The Groove, Love amongst the Butterflies (all of which done in overlapping sections 2015)
8a abroad, possibly in Margalef in March.
Statement of Youth
If going ok find a suitable project 8b or harder to get stuck into
Bouldering
7b on the lime
Brad Pit, eatswood traverse,
Get over to Wales at least a couple of times
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4. Visit a new area. Swanage and/or Pembroke hopefully. Loads of stuff I'd like to do at both.
It's an hour and a bit further to Pembroke but so worth the extra drive.
So everyone tells me! I really fancy Polaris, Mother Africa and Freeborn Man though, and Swanage is on the cusp of almost being day trip-able. Mind you, Hunterman's Leap does look awesome ...
Dorset is about two hours, surely a day trip? Good objectives, I've not yet managed to get on Polaris but it's high on the agenda. Apparently The Fabulous Professor Panic is similarly 'out there' without being that hard.
4. Trad. Get my mojo back, get back onto some E4s and have a decent go at an E5.
5. This, and be actually on my mental and physical game for it this time
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
7. Buy a house, continue to get on well at work, complete other goals (cycling). Try to make various potential reunions with far flung road trip friends come about.
5. will come naturally after 4. Your physical game is not the issue and your mental game will be much better after doing some slightly adventurous trad. However, fitting this all in means you need to abandon 2/4 from 7. Stop that cycling straightaway!
..., a concerted effort at embracing local bouldering ...
Aging former traddies need to boulder. Especially shark, habrich and I.
11. Onsight attempt Reproduction at High Tor
would you like advice on one piece of gear to take? F6c?! (seriously)
It's got to be a pink tricam (I have no idea).
Good luck everyone.
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11. Onsight attempt Reproduction at High Tor
would you like advice on one piece of gear to take? F6c?! (seriously)
It's got to be a pink tricam (I have no idea).
[/quote]
no!
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4. Trad. Get my mojo back, get back onto some E4s and have a decent go at an E5.
5. This, and be actually on my mental and physical game for it this time
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
7. Buy a house, continue to get on well at work, complete other goals (cycling). Try to make various potential reunions with far flung road trip friends come about.
5. will come naturally after 4. Your physical game is not the issue and your mental game will be much better after doing some slightly adventurous trad. However, fitting this all in means you need to abandon 2/4 from 7. Stop that cycling straightaway!
The physical game letdown from last summer was very specifically the calf stamina, which really does need addressing before any more massive footsy grey limestone walls. However, this also follows from 4.
As for the cycling, the big cycling goal I've committed to for the year is early in June which will leave plenty of summer left to do other things in. I'm away all over Easter and I rarely make big plans for the winter (and based on the winter so far that doesn't seem a bad plan) so all I actually lose is a bit of time in April and May. I struggle to get out of work in time to climb outside in the evenings that regularly anyway so as far as possible I'm going to fit in the bulk of my miles after work.
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My aims are less specific in general and more about learning to work around the issues my right wrist has given me. Finally on top of what I can't do (much worse than I ever imagined), so the main aim for the year is to engrain good habits that stop me climbing into dead ends. So no straight arm, no thumb usage, no deep kickoffs - or thereabouts.
Otherwise - Incapacity Benefit at WCJ Cornice when I get back this summer and Salbit West Ridge in August. That'll do me.
Boulder. Lots.
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Lockoffs
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Rehab Finger
8a
Do some trad
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Keep training after friend moves out of my house to go traveling. 7C+ on peak lime. Continue grit rampage as long as possible after hard sends recently... Keeping it vague
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only one main goal for 2016: get barreled...
something like this would be nice:
(http://www.balisurfwaves.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/barrel-waves.jpg)
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In 2015 I set no aims - and despite missing most of the first three months through injury have had one of my best years to date. So I'm tempted to set no aims for 2016....
Likewise. Still dithering, but will probably put down a few
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Thought it might be fun to post this and check back in 12 months...although if I'd done this a year ago I'm certain it would have included a load of stuff I then never even tried...so my psyche will probably change again! :)
1) Jerry's Traverse, plus at least a couple of other new grit 7bs before Font in March (am already very close on T crack, Suavito, Case of Mistaken Identity...SHOULD be a fairly straightforward goal...but so far I've only managed one problem on grit this season!)
2) Font in March, keen to do Crazy Horse and try a 7B+, probably either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe. 10 new 7s in the week would also be good (managed 11 last trip), but planning to focus more on difficulty over quantity.
3) Moffatrocity as soon as it dries. I spent 8 sessions on it in Oct/Nov and was super close (in fact really should have done it more than once...)
4) Would like to have a pop at eatswood Traverse and Wright's Traverse. Probably after Font if Moff is still wet, or after Moff before getting on routes.
5) Arch Enemies. Really need to get back on some routes this year and this is the first one I'd be motivated to put a lot of time in to. Had 2 short sessions on it in 2014.
6) Subject to speed of success on (5), F8a. Various candidates.
7) Pick off some more limestone 7Bs in summer evenings (stretch goal some 7B+s or maybe Paint it Black.)
8) In between all the above, find time to try Simple Simon and Bizarre again.
9) Next winter, maybe try Tetris.
Phew!
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Rehab Finger
8a
Do some trad
+ 1 arm hang a campus rung/ 1 pad edge.
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Think you should throw in a multi-pitch 5.12 on the Chief, a concerted effort at embracing local bouldering and a visit to Smith
Smith must be weekend-feasible? Pretty sure we drove from Smith to yourself in <1 day?
Saw on FB that Alan Carne had OSed University Wall, impressive stuff!
I think my only aim for 2016 is to get a dog and name it Toby (regardless of gender), perhaps I should also finish the bathroom (+ thus the house) too...
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Finally do v6 after years of sort of trying. pigswill at brownstones will do
Manage the black dog or banish him even better...
Get back to under 14 stone.... On my way there now
Get out more....
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Balance family life and climbing with our 2nd child due in April.
Boulder:
1. 7A on Grit
2. Something harder than 7A anywhere
Routes:
1. Left Wall Traverse (The Cave)
2. Flowers are for the Dead (Dinbren)
3. Try an 8a (Elite Syncopations - Dinbren)
4. Boat People (Diamond)
5. Little Orme Project
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1. DWS Project.
2. Get fitter and leaner.
3. Rocket Man.
4. V9s.
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Onsight E5
More trips away
Sub 3 hour marathon
A big fell race
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I recall not thinking 8 hours each way Manchester-Torridon for a long weekend was that big a deal.
Admittedly no border crossing (in those days).
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Make a film that's as well received as Stonnis.
That's the big one. :look: Hopefully it won't get in the way of the following goals:
7b/ 7b+ sport.
Back to the 7s in bouldering.
Try harder (i.e. above E1) trad routes
Stop eating so much fucking chocolate.
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I wasn't gonna do this as my 2015 goals were 1 for 5, and 0 for 4 climbing related. But here it goes anyway.
Top Three Routes
- Spotted Dick Project-14a/b ish
- Prosthetic Project-14a/b ish
- Bolt route on Gargoyle in Hatcher Pass
Top Three Boulder Problems
- Sheep Farmer Sit Project-v12/13ish
- The Arkenstone Project-v11ish
- The Kiss Project-v10/11ish
Physical Feats
- One Arm Pullup - Each Arm
- 10 Second Front Lever
- Campus 1-4-7
Life Stuff
- Stay happily married despite work and training goals/loads
- Continue Building New Business - aiming for 150% growth for next year
- Start local Climbing Training business
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Shake off the Sciatica and get he house decorated after the major building project of last year and get stuck into the back log of new routes I have spied or partially equipped.
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1. Sort my wrist out.
2. Sport - Body Machine, New Dawn, The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag.
3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka.
4. Something alpine, big, rock and mostly free (and keep running regularly to be fit for it).
Right now I'd settle for number 1 and getting regular climbing in.
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Shake off the Sciatica and get he house decorated
Mutually exclusive?
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Right then!
Trad
Get more solid at E5.
Did a reasonable number last year but a lot were soft and I had to try pretty hard on all of them! Once again just need to keep getting on them when I'm psyched and remember it's the onsight as a process not a prize that's important.
Have loads of amazing looking routes I'm keen for all over at this grade so that's good!
Finish off Almscliff big 3! Maybe mince up a grit E4 whilst tied on?
Depending on how the E5s go this year I guess if it feels right I'd like to try and climb an E6 onsight or groundup (obvs) however if this is red at the end of the year that will be totally fine as E6 is a grade for the big boys and I'm only small...
Guess I'm looking for good E6s that aren't death but also aren't desperate in my usual stomping grounds of North Wales, Pembroke and the peak. Guess the usual suspects are Lord, cad, reproduction, struggling to think of a suitable Pembroke one...
Sport
Consolidate 7b onsights - have now onsighted 4 so it would be good to get more under the belt!
Flash 7b+ - should be in with a shot of this during my spring sport trip as I'll have actually been training fitness and tied on in the lead up.
Consolidate at 7c and do some 7c+s herbie at malham should go down early next year I think.
Red point 8a - fuck it may as well be bold and stick me neck out! (Plus as GuyVG has slapped his way up one I better try and catch him!) Guess something on malhams upper tier or the cornice (unleashing) or aberration at 2 tier ( had a session on this last year and it doesn't feel too bad).
Achieving/striving for these goals will give me a good physical buffer for my trad goals which are the important ones.
Bouldering
The last few months of last year were a total shit show but I'd love to do things like West Side, Spare Rib, My apple, finish off narcissus, etc. So I guess quantifiably that means climb 7B.
Keep enjoying it!
Cba with life ones...
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Cheque I've heard rumours you're planning a sea-cliff film, if so keep me in the loop as I'd like to be in that if logistics allow, I love sea-cliffs. I could do the Lleyn :)
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Cheque I've heard rumours you're planning a sea-cliff film, if so keep me in the loop as I'd like to be in that if logistics allow, I love sea-cliffs. I could do the Lleyn :)
You heard right- glad there are rumours about it as I need as many people who are psyched as possible!
Lleyn would be great. Logistics are indeed going to be mental for this project but I'm totally up for the challenge and have accepted that it will consume my entire year.
To everyone reading this- if you have ambitions to climb wild trad seacliff routes this year get in touch either on here or social media. :thumbsup:
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To everyone reading this- if you have ambitions to climb wild trad seacliff routes this year get in touch either on here or social media. :thumbsup:
I like sea cliffs. I probably don't have the most convenient location for the places you might have in mind (Poole) but let me know.
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Run Edale Skyline race - March
Ski Haute Route - April
Redpoint 8b by end of year ideally Bricktop and Butterflies.
Any onsighting and trad will be a bonus.
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8. 5x1 week away (non-family) climbing trips 3x1 week away (non-family) climbing trips
The error of my previous thinking was pointed out to me this morning in no uncertain terms. :spank:
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Cheque I've heard rumours you're planning a sea-cliff film, if so keep me in the loop as I'd like to be in that if logistics allow, I love sea-cliffs. I could do the Lleyn :)
To everyone reading this- if you have ambitions to climb wild trad seacliff routes this year get in touch either on here or social media. :thumbsup:
Let me know if you want a cameraman, it was a goal of mine to film something on main cliff for ages, never did get round to it.
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Keen to get involved in this. Got an unfinished project on Cilan that we need a kick up the arse to get back on...
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If suitable partner can be arranged, and arrangement with mrs Jwi be made: Troutherapie in Aiglun
Onsight 8a again, preferably more than one, and at least one that really is 8a.
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Keen to get involved in this. Got an unfinished project on Cilan that we need a kick up the arse to get back on...
Woot, it's going to be just like this, with me as the dismayed second man:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCbw0lsMxKE
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1. 8A
2. 8A
3. 8A
Preferably at least one not at Almscliff. Or at the very least, not on DWR.
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My goals are the same as yours, except 7C+.
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:beer2:
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To everyone reading this- if you have ambitions to climb wild trad seacliff routes this year get in touch either on here or social media. :thumbsup:
Hell yes
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After about two years :wall: with injuries, this year my goals are less about bouldering and more sport and trad, I'm not fussed about pushing the bouldering grade this year.
1) continue rehabbing current injuries and don't get any more
2) get route fit and use this to climb an 8a route and tie on to try an onsight of at least one E5
3) maintain bouldering level and do some more 7Bs, do some decent mileage of hardish problems in Font in April, but without getting sucked into projects
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To everyone reading this- if you have ambitions to climb wild trad seacliff routes this year get in touch either on here or social media. :thumbsup:
I'm regularly out on the sea cliffs of Devon and Cornwall. If you ever want to come down this way to get some footage then feel free to get in touch.
Cheers, Luke.
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Didn't set any goals last year as was genuinely unsure if I'd be able to climb properly again. One largely successful ankle surgery later, its time to get back on the horse:
Climbing:
1) Get back up to E2 on trad
2) Get comfortable onsighting brit technical 5C (have had a long standing mental block about this)
3) Go on a sport climbing trip
4) Boulder 7A
5) Solo El Cap again
Non climbing:
1) Play a gig with professional jazz musicians and not feel like a complete imposter
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Looking forward to 2016. Some things I'd like to do this year:
- Get back into shape and do some climbing.
I have three trips planned already.. (Chorro at the end of month, Fatneck's birthday bash in Feb & then Siurana with Sean in March). Go to Devon and Cornwall for some trad. Cheque/JB/Fiend - count me in for some lleyn action.
- Continue the good work on the music front, write some songs & do more gigs. Chillax - PM me.
- Do some writing.
- Become a Dad.
- Get a new job/career that's fun, challenging, pays the bills and doesn't dominate my life like the last five years.
- Go surfing somewhere interesting like Orkney or South America.
- See all my friends & help my family sort some problems out.
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Becoming a Dad is a lot like a new career that is challenging, not much fun (at first), and will dominate your life for the next five years (at least).
Looking forward Lleyn in Feb. We can finally do that surf lesson we planned about 7 years back. Be good to have a pint with Dave too.
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Keen to get involved in this. Got an unfinished project on Cilan that we need a kick up the arse to get back on...
Woot, it's going to be just like this, with me as the dismayed second man:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCbw0lsMxKE
I love Hard XS. Must be at least 50% of the reason foreign climbers think we're all mental. Didn't realise it was all online- handy as I lost my DVD years ago!
Sending out waffly PMs about the film now...
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climbing aims for the year are:
Bouldering - V7 or harder
Sport - 7b+ or harder
Trad - E4 or harder
Not done 7b+ on bolts but have bouldered and tradded at those levels. As per the year just gone, I've been spending more time going sports climbing so feels realistic.
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1. Achieve some sort of back fix
2. Resume climbing
3. Enter 3 Lake District fell race classics
4. Bottle a cask for the Islay Festival
Looking forward to meeting/catching up with plenty of you at Fatneck's do by the sound of things. Best of luck with your 2016 goals beastios!
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Bouldering Aims for this year are to hit more a few more Font 7b's indoors and maybe back end of year a little higher but also to take my indoor grade outside during the summer. Nuff said. The issue I always have is having 3 daughters including two toddlers so time management will need to stay sharp and the new job might not give me enough time to train. We will see but I got me 7b goal and increase the base pyramid of 7a's indoors this year. Onwards and upwards.
Other than climbing, fix a damaged marriage. Build an extension. Both of which might screw up the bouldering aims. c'est la vie.
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After about two years :wall: with injuries, this year my goals are less about bouldering and more sport and trad, I'm not fussed about pushing the bouldering grade this year.
1) continue rehabbing current injuries and don't get any more
2) get route fit and use this to climb an 8a route and tie on to try an onsight of at least one E5
3) maintain bouldering level and do some more 7Bs, do some decent mileage of hardish problems in Font in April, but without getting sucked into projects
I somehow managed to forget one of my major ambitions which is to deadlift 2xBW. Currently doing sets of 5 at around 85% so it shouldn't be too much of a stretch, but given my incredible capacity for injury I'm going to keep working up to it slowly.
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Big
Write a thesis.
Large fast and light tradventures.
Don't get eaten by a polar bear.
Stay in touch with other human beings.
Medium
Tabou Zizi
Finish off arbitrary '8a in every style/rock type challenge'. Still to go: crack, trad, granite.
Put lots of pockets on a board.
Try some 8b/cs, ideally on pockets.
Prioritise doing awesome first ascents over mileage.
Lots of DWS in Pembroke.
Do more surfing, fell running, winter climbing, ski touring, and music.
Little
Cultivate my bonsai mountains
Stop driving to climbing walls.
Font 8A.
Go bouldering in Devon & Cornwall.
Ecstasy and the No Footholds Traverse at Iffley.
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- Go surfing somewhere interesting like Orkney or South America.
Outer Hebs? Desperate to get there again. Could be combined with cheque's wild seacliff mission. Or Sandwood Bay - some great seacliffs and surfing there. And some amazing bouldering.
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In 2015 I set no aims - and despite missing most of the first three months through injury have had one of my best years to date. So I'm tempted to set no aims for 2016....
Likewise. Still dithering, but will probably put down a few
Fuck it, I'm committing.
1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
3) Do some more routes indoors instead of bouldering
4) nail 3 last remaining bouldering projects locally
5) Do the DWS traverse
6) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps
7) Do a ski tour / bit of ski mountaineering in the Alps (nothing massive, the Roc d'Enfer (or at least part of it) looks like a good objective)
8) Get back to some surfing again (last year was not a good year)
9) Do some local ski touring (on new skis I'm about to buy), and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
10) ski Glencoe
11) Take more photos, and do something with them
12) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
13) Hang on to job in current crisis in the industry
14) Man up and take back extra time I work with no credit
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Fuck it, I'm committing.
1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
3) Do some more routes indoors instead of bouldering
4) nail 3 last remaining bouldering projects locally
5) Do the DWS traverse
6) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps
7) Do a ski tour / bit of ski mountaineering in the Alps (nothing massive, the Roc d'Enfer (or at least part of it) looks like a good objective)
8) Get back to some surfing again (last year was not a good year)
9) Do some local ski touring (on new skis I'm about to buy), and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
10) ski Glencoe
11) Take more photos, and do something with them
12) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
13) Hang on to job in current crisis in the industry
14) Man up and take back extra time I work with no credit
15) Boulder at Torridon an a few other choice Scottish spots.
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Fuck it, I'm committing.
1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
3) Do some more routes indoors instead of bouldering
4) nail 3 last remaining bouldering projects locally
5) Do the DWS traverse
6) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps
7) Do a ski tour / bit of ski mountaineering in the Alps (nothing massive, the Roc d'Enfer (or at least part of it) looks like a good objective)
8) Get back to some surfing again (last year was not a good year)
9) Do some local ski touring (on new skis I'm about to buy), and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
10) ski Glencoe
11) Take more photos, and do something with them
12) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
13) Hang on to job in current crisis in the industry
14) Man up and take back extra time I work with no credit
15) Boulder at Torridon an a few other choice Scottish spots.
That's quite a list. Good luck old bean...
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Put lots of pockets on a board.
Lots of DWS in Pembroke.
I've got your back :)
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Fuck it, I'm committing.
1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
3) Do some more routes indoors instead of bouldering
4) nail 3 last remaining bouldering projects locally
5) Do the DWS traverse
6) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps
7) Do a ski tour / bit of ski mountaineering in the Alps (nothing massive, the Roc d'Enfer (or at least part of it) looks like a good objective)
8) Get back to some surfing again (last year was not a good year)
9) Do some local ski touring (on new skis I'm about to buy), and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
10) ski Glencoe
11) Take more photos, and do something with them
12) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
13) Hang on to job in current crisis in the industry
14) Man up and take back extra time I work with no credit
15) Boulder at Torridon an a few other choice Scottish spots.
That's quite a list. Good luck old bean...
Yup, go big or go home. Partially ticked no 9 at lunchtime, wallet now Ł600 lighter.
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1. Fix/ rehab shoulder. Shoulder impingement which has put bouldering on hold for the foreseeable future. Came out of nowhere and can't climb without pain :'(
2. Pass my LPC
3. Go winter climbing
4. Take more photographs and try and get some wildlife shots
5. Easy climbing somewhere abroad like the Dolomites (never been) or the Alps again.
6. Keep blogging
Will change/ update if shoulder makes a miraculous recovery over the next few months
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My expectations have been revised downwards following the poor finish to last year.
Try and do a few 8A graded probs in UK
Try and do one 8A+ uk (poss working class ss)
Aim for 8A+ in font
That is all
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Better late than never...
- Bouldering wise - any of the following would be good: Brad Pit, The Joker, Tetris, Roof of a Baby Buddha, Cosmic Wheels, Special K, Lotus, Mr Fantastic, Stoned Temple Pilots, Diesel Power, Rock Atrocity, Lou Ferrino...
- Would also really like to do a trip to Swizzy having never been before.
- But my main aim and new long term goal is 8b sport.
-
Looking forward to 2016. Some things I'd like to do this year:
- Get back into shape and do some climbing.
I have three trips planned already.. (Chorro at the end of month, Fatneck's birthday bash in Feb & then Siurana with Sean in March). Go to Devon and Cornwall for some trad. Cheque/JB/Fiend - count me in for some lleyn action.
- Continue the good work on the music front, write some songs & do more gigs.
- Do some writing.
- Become a Dad.
- Get a new job/career that's fun, challenging, pays the bills and doesn't dominate my life like the last five years.
Done - registered my own company yesterday. I've one client already and another in the pipeline. Website etc in production. I'm under no illusions about how hard I'm going to have to work but at least it's for me. Looking forward to doing some quality work for clients rather than managing a massive team and budget.
- Go surfing somewhere interesting like Orkney or South America.
- See all my friends & help my family sort some problems out.
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Fuck it, I'm committing.
1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
3) Do some more routes indoors instead of bouldering
4) nail 3 last remaining bouldering projects locally
5) Do the DWS traverse
6) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps
Fuck yes
7) Do a ski tour / bit of ski mountaineering in the Alps (nothing massive, the Roc d'Enfer (or at least part of it) looks like a good objective)
Hell No. In hindsight unless it was a very unusual set of circumstances the two were pretty much mutually exclusive.
8) Get back to some surfing again (last year was not a good year)
9) Do some local ski touring (on new skis I'm about to buy), and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
10) ski Glencoe
11) Take more photos, and do something with them
12) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
One minor tick so far for the year, hopefully more to come
13) Hang on to job in current crisis in the industry
14) Man up and take back extra time I work with no credit
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Looking forward to 2016. Some things I'd like to do this year:
- Get back into shape and do some climbing.
I have three trips planned already.. (Chorro at the end of month, Fatneck's birthday bash in Feb & then Siurana with Sean in March). Go to Devon and Cornwall for some trad. Cheque/JB/Fiend - count me in for some lleyn action.
- Continue the good work on the music front, write some songs & do more gigs.
- Do some writing.
- Become a Dad.
- Get a new job/career that's fun, challenging, pays the bills and doesn't dominate my life like the last five years.
Done - registered my own company yesterday. I've one client already and another in the pipeline. Website etc in production. I'm under no illusions about how hard I'm going to have to work but at least it's for me. Looking forward to doing some quality work for clients rather than managing a massive team and budget.
- Go surfing somewhere interesting like Orkney or South America.
- See all my friends & help my family sort some problems out.
Nice one - considering similar after my MSc. What's the field?
-
Business Consultant - Advising clients on and helping with "hands on" delivery of major change programmes (organisational change/M&A/large scale IT/digital) and smaller scale innovation (new tech/new business launch) plus some exec coaching that I'm starting to do.
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1. DWS Project. Fucking done! :punk: Only took me 3 seasons...
2. Get fitter and leaner.
3. Rocket Man.
4. V9s.
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Ace! I was wondering how you'd got on with this after following along in power club!
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I think my aims are a bit unrealistic, so I'm including two tiers on the sport climbing:
Onsight some 7as (4 so far, forgot to include this originally but was definitely a big aim)
RP 7c - pretty unlikely so...
RP 7b+ - I'd be really happy with this (done 7b as of March!)
A good amount of 7A's (5-15?) 7A+ would be an overachievement I think :)
Be strict with my antags & control my chronic issues
If my emphasis shifts back to trad climbing - onsight/flash E4s
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1. 8A - tick!
2. 8A - tick!
3. 8A
Preferably at least one not at Almscliff. Or at the very least, not on DWR.
Half way update. Made an excellent start to the year by ticking Dialectics, Exorcist, and Exorcist Short (YYFY). All 8A, all on DWR... I'm obviously only taking two ticks.
That leaves me with 5 months to get myself ready to crush Zoo York come winter. Allez. :strongbench:
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Alright, I'm in this year just so that I have something to look back at this time next year.
Bouldering: Breakthrough my long, long term plateau of 7B. I'm lacking inspiration of suitable local projects. Maybe Sabotage 8A. Fail
Sport: F7b+ onsight. Up a plus from my current peak. Plus a load of 7a+ and 7b onsights would be nice. (fatten the pyramid) Very Nearly Flashed 7b, but tried very few sport routes this year. Did Marlina in short order, which was nice (Fr7c)
Winter: Have some quality days in Scotland. I'm operating at a higher level than when I left Scotland, so loads of classics to go at. Did very little winter climbing after Jna - too busy at uni
Trad: Consolidate E4 onsighting and get on loads of quality E5s, with improved pacing and tactics. My head was good in the autumn, so long may that continue. Maybe hit Fair Head, Lewis/Hebrides for some big fun trad. YYFY - smashing in the trad. Actually felt solid on some Es which is still hard to get my head around. Did a load of really, really, really good routes at Fairhead. Did Right Wall. Well. Chuffed.
Oh, just remembered a far fetched plan. I'm going to join a mate working Requiem at Dumby. Just to see...just to see... Nope
For once I have few trips planned, so a bit of a grade focussed, rather than objective focussed year. N.America in September :-)
Outside of climbing. Fix all injures. Fixed some, gained some others. Maintenance.
Smash in my Masters with a solid distinction. 81% average so far (70+ is distinction) just my Thesis to do
Get a job/set up a company. Working on it...
Not much eh?
Not bad for half the year. :D
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I've kind of accidentally achieved all my aims, awkward.
Climb my first 7b - tick
Climb my first E5 - tick (and onsight) on the first day of the first trip of the year (in May)
I'd like to try and get a F7A+ boulder indoors but it seems so much harder to make progress in bouldering than route climbing, so I'm not mega fussed about that
In a way it's kind of nice to have the 'pressure' off for the rest of the year. Hoping to spend August just bumbling around in N wales and on the grit, and work on some of my weaknesses (roofs, cracks, steep stuff)
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Going reasonably well so far
Climbing:
1) Get back up to E2 on trad Did The Ghost in Dalkey just before heading to the states. Done it before, but its a great route and a good one to test faith in the dodgy ankle.
2) Get comfortable onsighting brit technical 5C (have had a long standing mental block about this) Haven't reached this point yet, but feel like I'm moving better than I have before, so theres hope
3) Go on a sport climbing trip
4) Boulder 7A Done indoors. Hopefully will be ticked for real in the Autumn/Winter
5) Solo El Cap again Virginia - Tangerine Trip in 10 days. Boo-yah!
Non climbing:
1) Play a gig with professional jazz musicians and not feel like a complete imposter Getting there slowly
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Climb Arch Enemies/New Dawn/Raindogs/Pierrepoint
Get on Supercool and K3
Had 2 more sessions on Arch Enemies, getting closer. Didn't try the others but did have a go on Supercool to see what it's like, predictably brilliant climbing but dismayed by how hard upper crux felt. Have since seen better beta on LisaA's video so am keen to get back on it. mid to long term goal.
Do something of relative merit in Siurana at Easter
Not a great trip, a few redpoints on L'escamarla one day failing at jump move then pulling on and going to the top each time. Annoying and busy.
Get down to the South West more (Ansteys, Brean, Cheddar etc)
Brean in January, cold but fun place and I enjoyed the climbing. Went to Cheddar a few weeks ago and did stuff like Shakin' like a leaf and Still waters.. Really good climbing.
Rein in back in and climb classic E3 routes all over and become a competent and safe climber, been the butt of the joke for too long and it's funny up until I tool myself.
Haven't really trad climbed except pitch 2 of yellow edge and Precious Metal the other week. Had fun and felt safe but enjoyed the 7b Dive Dive Dive round the corner more. Guess i'm just in a different mindset at the moment.
Enjoy bouldering, I.e. get out and have fun on circuits with a good team. Get on Suavito ffs!
Fun days out in winter, didn't go to Gardoms.
General:
Don't fuck it up - so far so good
Keep saving - ditto
See family more - ditto
Apply self at new job - We'll see
Ride a horse - They're too scared
Get Nige on hard sport (the 3rd reincarnation of Kershaw) - not a chance, he's too busy trying to take Rob Clifton's crown as works circuit wad.
Good luck everyone
Not bad, some more south west action next week should be going to Churston/Torbryan and Sennen/Bosigran for the first time, looking forward to it.
An early September sport trip will hopefully give me a fitness boost for some of the Malham and Gordale objectives. I'm pessimistic about the Cornices.
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Going reasonably well so far
Climbing:
1) Get back up to E2 on trad Did The Ghost in Dalkey just before heading to the states. Done it before, but its a great route and a good one to test faith in the dodgy ankle.
2) Get comfortable onsighting brit technical 5C (have had a long standing mental block about this) Haven't reached this point yet, but feel like I'm moving better than I have before, so theres hope
3) Go on a sport climbing trip
4) Boulder 7A Done indoors. Hopefully will be ticked for real in the Autumn/Winter
5) Solo El Cap again Virginia - Tangerine Trip in 10 days. Boo-yah!
Non climbing:
1) Play a gig with professional jazz musicians and not feel like a complete imposter Getting there slowly
I'm guessing if you've bouldered an indoors F7A (not exactly easy!) you should be walking up E2's? Keep it up!
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I'm guessing if you've bouldered an indoors F7A (not exactly easy!) you should be walking up E2's? Keep it up!
You would think that, but my trad head is surprisingly awful despite (or maybe because of) all the aid climbing. E.g falling off E1's at Fair Head while able to do one-armers... I find trad the hardest part of the game to improve at. Main reason to keep trying I guess!
Cheers for the encouragement :)
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8A.
Not quite, but decent progress thusfar.. A couple of 7Cs down.
At least one Font trip.
One short trip to Magic Wood, not a heck of a lot of Font prospects until next year..
Get married. Survive wedding.
Tick! Now to survive married life..
Make decision as to where my wife-to-be and I will be living.
Closer, but not quite..
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I have two aims for 2016:
Rain. Dogs.
While Raindogs is my main aim it won't be a disaster if I don't manage it and I should have elaborated a bit on others:
Complete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases:
Priorities = Raindogs & Powerplant + Call of Nature, Why Me?, Sissy & Body Machine plus some other Peak WIPs
raise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7b
OS E4s - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list.
Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains
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Rehab Finger - done, but have had two more pulley injuries since...
8a - not yet, but have climbed my first 7c+, hopefully i'll get a chance to get on an 8a
Do some trad - not done
1 arm hang a campus rung/ 1 pad edge - done
Mid-year addition 1 arm pullup on campus rung
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Better late than never...
- Bouldering wise - any of the following would be good: Brad Pit, The Joker, Tetris, Roof of a Baby Buddha, Cosmic Wheels, Special K, Lotus, Mr Fantastic, Stoned Temple Pilots, Diesel Power, Rock Atrocity, Lou Ferrino...
- Would also really like to do a trip to Swizzy having never been before.
- But my main aim and new long term goal is 8b sport.
Rock Atrocity done
Lou Ferrino is close
Going to Swizzy in September, flights booked
Hardly sport climbed whatsoever so far, Cornice still fucked I assume, and I'm focused on bouldering with this trip in mind now
We'll see how the second half of this year turns out.
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Chances of getting out this week are slim so it looks like this block is now over and time to update
Complete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases: Managed 1 x 8a, 1 x 7c+ and 2 x 7c in the two phases so far. On track.
Raindogs - did some good links over 2 sessions in Spring, poor nick on 3 visits since.
Powerplant - still wet
Call of Nature, Why Me? YYFY
Sissy - not managed to get on it
Body Machine - still wet
plus other Peak WIPs - Obscene Gesture, Laughing at the Rain, Obscene Toilet
raise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7b, few 7as, 4 x 7a+ OS, flashed Tin Of (7b?). Heading in the right direction.
consistently OS E4 - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list. - Few E2s, as ever not done enough.
Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains - I was thinking Wales really but off to Chamonix next week. Still want to go to Wales...
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Main goal is the usual: E5. This year's twist, do it before 7th June. FAIL
7b RP (Clashing Socks, Empire of the Sun, Still Waters Run Deep). Get on a 7b+. Not close. Postponed to Autumn unless Asturias or Switzerland trips turn into sport climbing.
Climb at Gogarth and Fairhead. Pentire is a fine alternative for one of these.
Climb at Font. at least once. Cancelled in May dues to floods, going there this Thursday.
Rabada-Navarro +1 other at Naranjo de Bulnes. Short Picos/Asturias trip in two weeks
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives. Watch this space!
Keep doing shoulder and other supportive exercises assiduously. Mostly doing these and shoulder is mostly holding up well. One lapse.
Try hard enough, often enough, to fall off at least one trad. route. Trying harder, not fallen off yet.
A decent year so far. I sustained a significant finger injury just after writing this which took out three months, so negligible proper sport, and meant my fitness is is not quite at E5 level yet. Great Ceuse trip, a worthy alternative to Fairhead, but all onsighting. August should see more green, then time to try harder on the bolts.
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Aims...pretty similar to last year (unsurprising really given my lack of real progress in life and climbing!)
in no particular order
CLIMBING
1) Try harder to get out bouldering before the limestone sport starts - too many wet days have robbed me of the mojo to even bother dragging the mats into the car, let alone properly project anything - anything off the grit tick list would be a bonus.
FAIL WITH EXTENUATING CIRCUMSTANCES a bit of bouldering but too wet to get momentum before routes started
2) Keep up the new-found enjoyment of finger-boarding - once, preferably twice, a week - more for contrast/relief from work than any real aim at improving my climbing.
PART FAIL- kept it up until May but skin / injury / midweek route sessions led to a hiatus. Intend to resume as soon as fingertips heal
3) Continue to work through the usual suspects at Malham / Kilnsey. Next up: GBH (onto The Groove or Overnite if successful). At Kilnsey, either one of the long extensions at the left side (Bullet or Stolen), or embrace the likelihood of years-long failure and get on Grooved Arete.
PASS - went through Malham tick-list like a dose of salts early season (Herbie, Toadal, Mescalito, Maximum, GBH and Overnite); currently falling off Stolen at Kilnsey (slapped break above boulder problem 4 times last weekend, so hopefully will go soonish
4) Climb something "substantial" not at Malham or Kilnsey - preferably Supercool at Gordale, or maybe something at Yew Cogar or Chapel or Giggleswick.
WORK IN PROGRESS - Did Cave Route LH at Gordale, have had a few sessions on Supercool
NON-CLIMBING
5) Keep trying to re-balance the work/life balance - work smarter during office hours and reduce the slightly needless number of late nights in the office (taking up finger-boarding has been somewhat successful in encouraging this). TOTAL AND UTTER FAIL
6) Drink booze less often. Yes... but only recently - one bonus of work being so full-on at the moment - it persuaded me that my weekday life is beyond the coping-whilst-a-bit-hungover stage.
7) Spend less nights titting about on the internet and more time reading books or watching decent films. FAIL... too tired from work to concentrate on anything substantial most nights. Currently reading the Iliad.... the time it's taking threatens to rival that of the siege of Troy
8 Go to some live events - comedy, music, football, theatre, boxing, whatever - try to experience less of the stuff I purport to love filtered through a screen. FAIL
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8A.
Not quite, but decent progress thusfar.. A couple of 7Cs down.
Getting closer - one 7C+/8A done..
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climbing aims for the year are:
Bouldering - V7 or harder
Sport - 7b+ or harder
Trad - E4 or harder
Not done 7b+ on bolts but have bouldered and tradded at those levels. As per the year just gone, I've been spending more time going sports climbing so feels realistic.
Forgot to update this...
V7 tick
7b+ tick
Can't believe I've done both of these considering how little climbing I've done. Weird innit...
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Mixed bag - some successes, some works in progress, some not to bes.....
Still potential to turn a decent chunk of it green, if I'm lucky.....
Ah go on I'll get involved. Some of these would be good, all of them and I'd be stoked.
1. Over the winter, V6/7 at home, in Albarracin and in Bishop. Try V8 at home some point. Some sort of hardish winter sport project - cuttings or whatever. Fighting torque maybe?
Mixed. V6 in Albarracin, at home and in Bishop, but no harder and none of the big Bishop classics. Not really done any bouldering since return from Bishop, but need to get back into it.
2. Actually get on Infinite Gravity. Maybe also try Fuel my Fire, Cider Soak and some harder Portland ticks (mainly west coast high 7s)
- IG season isn't yet open but I've been canvassing for partners.
- Spent 3 days on Cider Soak and keen for a rematch
- Done Saskatchewan Uranium Miner for one of my classic west coast 7 ticks
- Not been near Fuel my Fire.
3. "Short trip" 8a send. If I can get an onsighting trip organised, try to break through into 7b+/c territory.
3 days on Mediterranean in Feb with good progress but no tick. Onsighting trip looks unlikely with my remaining holiday, as does another sport redpoint trip.
4. Trad. Get my mojo back, get back onto some E4s and have a decent go at an E5.
Got on some E3s, but nothing more as yet. Getting back in the game, just need more miles and more opportunities.
5. This, and be actually on my mental and physical game for it this time
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
A few weeks till we go!
6. Build on last year's reintroduction to dws, get some obvious Swanage and Devon classics done and push the boat out a bit at Lulworth - 7b+ or more?
Back into Lulworth season now, early days though.
7. Buy a house, continue to get on well at work, complete other goals (cycling). Try to make various potential reunions with far flung road trip friends come about.
House and cycling done
Reunions, well, sadly didn't really work out. There's always next year.
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Interesting first half of year, shoulder injury forcing my hand a bit.
1. Fix/ rehab shoulder. Shoulder impingement which has put bouldering on hold for the foreseeable future. Came out of nowhere and can't climb without pain :'( This has somewhat improved but I still can't boulder hard. Hurts still doing certain movements (like locking off and rolling over with the other arm). However, I can climb without pain and am just a bit sore after, also can't have more than 2 days on at a time. No getting to the bottom of the problem but need to self massage more frequently and keep doing physio. I really hope this hasn't fcked me forever.
2. Pass my LPC YYFY found out today I got distinctions in all exams. Start training contract in Sept.
3. Go winter climbing Had some amazing weather in Scotland and the Lakes. Got quite a bit done and pleased to see improvement (technical and mental) from the last time I went winter climbing. Really excited for this winter.
4. Take more photographs and try and get some wildlife shots Nada. Although I am quite pleased with the shots I've taken on my phone whilst out.
5. Easy climbing somewhere abroad like the Dolomites (never been) or the Alps again. This very likely won't happen.
6. Keep blogging Slowly getting back to writing more frequently.
Pleased with the year so far. Most important was passing exams or be out of a job. This means I'll be in Leeds for the next 2 years minimum. :) Shoulder means I probably won't be bouldering this winter which makes me sad but roll on trad and winter instead.
Getting rid of 4 and 5 and adding the following for remainder of the year.
- Climb 2 more 7c's and get on a 7c+
- Classic E4's and E5's
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- Get stuck in to a proper project
- ...but get it done within the year (preferably without too much weeping at the bottom of the crag, sacrificing of first born children etc.) No joy. Spent lots of time ticking off things that were previously projects though, so can't complain too much.
- Trips to font, buoux, fairhead, mallorca, chorro Couple of trips to font in the bag, and fairhead was as good as the reports suggest. Think I even oversaw shark playing pool on a rest day. esoteric siege wad tick?
- Try to keep the font ticklist under control (preferably by ticking off large parts of it) Obviously a fail. Should know better by now that the font ticklist only grows.
- Get scared on some DWS (preferably towards the top of adrenochrome) Slowly but surely the season is ramping up.
- Cutlass
- Wizard of Oz, if I can get keen enough for another go
Going by the numbers the above looks fairly bad, but I feel like I've actually just done lots of stuff that wasn't on the list (academic, bold as love, project 'tick all of the worlds soft touch 7Cs'). Best part of DWS season still to come so lots of opportunity there.
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bold as love,
What a great route, I have fond memories.
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However, I can climb without pain and am just a bit sore after, also can't have more than 2 days on at a time.
That's just called "not being Alex Megos", Ben.
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However, I can climb without pain and am just a bit sore after, also can't have more than 2 days on at a time.
That's just called "not being Alex Megos", Ben.
Are you kidding? Could usually manage 4 days on without too much trouble.
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Yeah but you're an old lawyer now. This is you, this is:
(http://www.theage.com.au/ffximage/2006/02/13/svVICTIM_wideweb__470x408,0.jpg)
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please remove that picture of me. It's taken on my bad side making me look like an old git.
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RETIRE.
THE FINAL COUNTDOWN!!!!!!!
4 days to go.
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Whoop!
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RETIRE.
THE FINAL COUNTDOWN!!!!!!!
4 days to go.
Fantastic. You'll never be busier (that's what my parents tell me!) but no more managers or NHS to deal with!
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They have already asked me to come back for 2 days a week for 3 months.
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Name a price..
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Mid-year update.
1. Keep injuries at bay and hence capitalise on winter training better than last year. Slightly dodgy right elbow since March but mainly OK. Still failed to convert training into any limestone successes bar Sean's at Stoney.
2. Do some 8s. 8a FA burbage linkup and Stuey in the School, I suppose that counts with the caveat that the former is a complete guess at the grade, and the latter isn't even rock.
3. Finish off Caviar. Not been on it, unlikely to happen how, can't be arsed.
4. Do some bouldering trips in either UK or Font. Been to Lakes, County, Yorkshire and Font.
5. Ideally get to alps, do some 4000m peaks. Not "some" but I'll take the NW face of Grand Combin de Valsorey 4184m.
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Mid Term review
Alpine/trad goal: a couple of decent summer trips on alpine rock routes and/or uk trad.
Having trad or alpine ambitions is pointless for me at the moment. I simply don't have the time free in the summer. Too many family commitments in the UK. My dad died last year, my mum moved into a home this year and on the more positive side, my son loves spending time with my brother & sister. So I've spent the bulk of my summer holidays over there for the last couple of years and will do for the foreseeable future. That leaves only a few weekends per summer free for alpine adventures, and then the weather is a huge random factor. I simply won't realistically get the mileage in to improve or aspire. So I'll accept being only an occasional alpinist, do whatever I get done and be happy.
Three decent trips so far: Oberreintal, Dolomites, Kaisergebirge. Two classics ticked in decent style, arse thoroughly kicked on the third. Success.
sport climbing.
2016: 7b
Decent spring season. My first 7a-in-a-day was followed by my first 7a+, also in a day. The 7a+ was almost an anticlimax: three moves of actual climbing, the purest bouldering-on-a-rope I've done, with the rest about VS.
On the minus side for the autumn: my planned partner for a trip to Spain can't make it due to pressure of work. On the plus side, I have another regular partner who has a very nice looking 7b+ (soft, supposedly) that he wants to project in the Frankenjura.
Am regarding my current alpine activities as the Base Mileage training phase.
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1. Sort my wrist out. Mostly there, still a little clunky on occasion but not generally causing a problem or pain.
2. Sport - Body Machine, New Dawn, The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. Not done much sport this year really, and haven't managed to regain the fitness for these routes at least, or been on any of them!
3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka. Not been on any of these! Have done Godzilla and Hanging Out at Glastonbury though, as well as A Few Dollars more and Roring Forties on Hoy.
4. Something alpine, big, rock and mostly free (and keep running regularly to be fit for it). 3 routes completed in Greenland, including new route. Running has been semi-regular, 9 Edges next week, not trained enough for that!
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..... Actually plan and record training, not just messing about.
Success will be signified by getting properly light (BMI of 20) as a means to an end of climbing several 7Bs and maybe even harder....
Did the training thing, with a few detours along the way, best thing was inspired by tips from a few on here particularly Nai and Sasquatch (thanks guys!) to do max hangs of up to 10s. Strong fingers result and I enjoyed the training.
Also turned out I wasn't as porky as I thought. BMI of 22 is a pretty decent 7B "send weight" and feels quite maintainable. Thirteen 7s in a month means I must have achieved the consistency I sought.
Now for the "something harder" part and grit 7B which was what I meant back then anyway.
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My 'grade pyramid' for 2015 and 2016... (new problems that is...)
Not too bad so far, considering arrival of child #1 3.5 months ago...(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/39455b392fd94ce8abba36e7bd388d44.jpg)
Hope you all like my meticulous documentation :)
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Bit early for post-match analysis isn't it? I thought you bouldering types were only just getting started at this time of year?! That said, I have found myself reflecting on the year's efforts too. Totting up the year to try to reassure myself that it's already been okay...... as I see bugger-all prospect of much happening in the months to come.
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I've had good value on the new lime ticks the last couple of years.. so not expecting a deluge of new 7'a this fall ;)
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Any you would recommend. particularly of the non-seepy variety. I could see myself getting "cabin fever" after few too many Depot sessions and being willing to make a 4hr round trip for some dirty crimps.
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8A.
Close, but no cigar. One 7C+/8A done and came close to two 8As before good conditions deserted us.
At least one Font trip.
Nope. Made it to Magic Wood though.
Get married. Survive wedding.
Tick.
Make decision as to where my wife-to-be and I will be living.
Sorta.
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Any you would recommend. particularly of the non-seepy variety. I could see myself getting "cabin fever" after few too many Depot sessions and being willing to make a 4hr round trip for some dirty crimps.
'kinnel, my computer has eaten my reply to this post three times in the last day....
OK, Peak - usual TorBicon suspects + Blackwell is good, decent problems on Beginners wall (seem to favour the taller climber too..). Conies Dale is well worth a visit - nice problems for me there - big spans to positive holds (and soft grades :) )
Tried S.Lakes lime? Woodwell is great - and doesnt seem to suffer from seepage as bad as many other places. Toms wall area OK (though some collapsed) - but RH end great. Kiss of the Dragon and Rigpa at 7B good.. also just up the road is Trowbarrow and the Shelterstone - which is pretty much all hard, but strangely compelling and dries very fast (takes no drainage)...
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Cheers fella. Not done much at Rubicon, and only done Weedkiller Traverse and Rattle & Hump start at the Tor. Never been to Beginers Wall or Connies, so keen to try; though they are both at the limits of a practicable one-dayer (a shade over 2 hrs drive) so would only be worth it if guaranteed to be dry.
South Lakes is nearer (around 90 mins drive), I've ticked a few at Woodwell - did Beauty of Being Numb, Screaming Slave, and Kiss of the Dragon last October. Not tried Rigpa. Could be worth a trip to try that, and remind myself that Not Bad Dave is too hard for me! I quite liked O'ert the Road last time I went - done Angel Deelite and quite fancy trying its varients or working something like Blood Sugar Sex Magic, some bad landings though and seemed a bit proner to damp than "normal" Woodwell last time I went.
At Trowbarrow, I've only climbed much on the Red wall (Shallow Grave I recall being good). I have always assumed that the Shelterstone stuff, other than maybe the v5 traverse, would be too hard - I guess I should actually make the effort to have physically proved!
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@trowbazza, Pit problem 7B? (Some say plus) has always felt within range for me even though I've not done it.. same with Not Bad Dave. I can nearly do several of the moves and some in isolation etc... stuff up at Farelton worth a look too.
Whilst we're on that neck of the woods have you been to Thorn? If not - it's a must.
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Plus imo Vitruvian is more like 7B (7A+ if you're tall?). It felt easier than Pit Problem and Texas Hold Em.
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Pit Problem is 7b if you start with the high right hand pinch and just put your heel on and go. Gets a lot harder if you start any lower and the proper low start is nails (7c). Neds problem is a sweet problem on that face. Lovely beta.
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Plus imo Vitruvian is more like 7B (7A+ if you're tall?). It felt easier than Pit Problem and Texas Hold Em.
I can barely pull on Vitruvian - let alone make the next move stick. Feels super bunched up for me..
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Bunched? Are you thinking of something else?
I found Pit Problem easier, though I remember thinking Vitruvian was soft at 7C.
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Bunched? Are you thinking of something else?
I found Pit Problem easier, though I remember thinking Vitruvian was soft at 7C.
Yup. Two opposing sidepull edges and a high left foot, then either throw a rh up or try and do some toe/heel snagging around to the right. Maybe memory is wrong but felt very awkward...
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Never been to Thorn - long drive plus walk-in has always put me off (I can deal with one, not both, especially if the weather is dubious).
Quite up for raiding missions to the South Lakes now though. I have convinced myself that the Shelterstone is worth a look - see if my recent embrace of fingerboarding reaps any rewards; cheers y'all for helping me with pre-winter mojo. Hopefully I might be able to get to the Peak Lime and Anston too (need to see off Reservation and the Nazgul problems). Yorkshire grit has some great bouldering but on winter weekends it is either wet or it's Almscliff... and sometimes I just cannot face trudging up the muddy hill to queue under problems.
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End year update
Mid-year update.
1. Keep injuries at bay and hence capitalise on winter training better than last year. Slightly dodgy right elbow since March but mainly OK. Still failed to convert training into any limestone successes bar Sean's at Stoney. Elbow situation took a huge nosedrive after I wrote the above, deep tendon thing, probably caused by going at it too hard after 3 weeks off. The lesson is: never take time off climbing. Still not right after 4 months of rehab but getting there. Still 10 months out of 12 with some kind of elbow issue isn't great. Need to be more diligent with general back/shoulder stability/mobility work in 2017.
2. Do some 8s. 8a FA burbage linkup and Stuey in the School, I suppose that counts with the caveat that the former is a complete guess at the grade, and the latter isn't even rock. Nothing since the above.
3. Finish off Caviar. Not been on it, unlikely to happen how, can't be arsed. Ha ha ha
4. Do some bouldering trips in either UK or Font. Been to Lakes, County, Yorkshire and Font. Had another good dadsquad weekend to Lakes since the above, Sourmilk and Carrock.
5. Ideally get to alps, do some 4000m peaks. Not "some" but I'll take the NW face of Grand Combin de Valsorey 4184m.
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I'm unlikely to get any significant climbing in this side of New Year, so here's my roundup! I've had a good year, a few things to iron out in the next 12 months.
1. Sort my wrist out. Mostly there, still a little clunky on occasion but not generally causing a problem or pain.
2. Sport - Body Machine, New Dawn, The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag. I've done hardly any sport this year, and nothing like the mileage to get these done. I have ticked a few good routes though, got quite close to flashing Face Race on LPT (2nd go)
3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka. I've not ticked these specific goals, but my trad year has been productive and adventurous, which is what I was really after. Have ticked Godzilla, Hanging Out at Glastonbury, the Bardsey Ripple in North Wales, Dreadnought at Berry Head, Roaring Forties and A Few Dollars More on Hoy, followed Fiend up a couple of XS routes, Kangaroo Wall at Wintour's, a few good low Es and a surprise quick HP of Here and Now at Sheigra.
4. Something alpine, big, rock and mostly free (and keep running regularly to be fit for it). 3 routes completed in Greenland, including new route (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=8781). Running has been intermittent, 9 Edges in September went ok, but still struggle with cramps on long runs, better planning and training needed!
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A fairly long list, but every item looks achievable idividually. We'll see if I get the full house.
1. Climb 8b before the end of summer. YYFY! Main goal completed with "Philip Cuisinere", and a lot quicker than expected. Took a brief play, then two sessions. Basically climbed it twice in a row after a kneebar popped during the easy finish.
2. Onsight 8a Nope. Really haven't done much onsighting this year. Flashed a few 7c+'s in rapid succession, and that's about it.
3. Don't get injured My upper body has been fine, but I have long-term knee damage and problems with heel-hooking. Not to mention damage from my fall in July.
4. Have more time for friends and others at the crag - in other words, more empathy required. I think I'm doing quite well on this front. I think I'm just becoming more empathetic and chilled as I get older.
5. Reduce the OCD behavior regarding studying, routine etc and be more open to new ideas in general. Work in progress. Turns out that some stuff still bothers me to the point of anxiety, but certain people/situations damp the effect. Spain was good for this.
6. Try to have a meaningful relationship (goes hand in hand with 4 and 5). :wub: Err, this one's interesting! I think I've made and consolidated a good few close relationships. I just haven't got a girlfriend.
I've been beating myself up a bit about my climbing this year, but it turns out I've done quite a bit. A lot more in the first half of the year though.
Plus, I've got into trad and had one of my best trips ever when I went to Mallorca with Ciro and lived on the beach for a week.
I love rock climbing.
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1. Rehab volar plate sufficiently that it's not an issue on my big trip. Avoid significant injury on said trip.
I think I can call this a success, at least by my standards. No significant injuries, just the usual grumblings, tweaks and old injuries from years ago that occasionally rear their ugly heads. Could do better though, I suspect I'll never again crimp or mono without fear like I once did...
2. Australia - Groove Train, Punks in the Gym, Tiger Cat, do a fuck load of climbing, run over a kangaroo, jam my thumb in a snake's buthole
Whilst I failed totally to jam my thumb up a snake's ass, Ella did manage to hit a Kangaroo, although it seemed to hop off relatively unscathed afterwards. Groove Train, Serpentine and Punks were all awesome lifetime must-dos. Did more bouldering than expected and unexpectedly did The Wheel (have I mentioned that before Stu?) which was fucking cool and made me feel like a hero. Didn't make it to the Blue Mnts unfortunately.
3. South Africa - Do a fuck load of climbing
Despite nearly dying in a car crash, we did some good climbing, and even some moderately hard climbing. Also ate a lot of butter whilst experimenting with fat-adapted dieting.
4. America - Livin' Astro, the rad looking 8b+/8cs at the New, Lucifer, Golden Ticket?, Do a fuck load of climbing
We changed plans so I didn't even get on any of the above. I did have the most awesome 6 weeks in ColoRADo though, where I did more hard stuff than I ever have before, had a 2 week block where I felt indestructible and, more importantly, got engaged. So that was all rather good. Bouldering lots and being the lightest ever since I was pre-puebescent seemed good for me.
5. General shit - get back to form, onsight 8bs, onsight/flash 8b+
Definitely felt like I got back on form after hurting myself at the end of last year. An unexpectedly good year for redpointing and bouldering, though a little disappointing from an onsighting perspective. Next year's goals will thus be more onsighty...
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1. Climb outside of Scotland, and the UK, as much as possible. - mostly yes: Cornwall (not enough), Bristol area, North Pembroke (not nearly enough), Rhinnogs and Gogarth area (plenty there, shout out to Cheque as it was great being part of his project, The Complete Works possibly being the highlight of the year), Chullila (cool), Albarracin (great), Margalef (frustrating), Zillertal (puntery but good). On the downside autumn has been rubbish and only characterised by depression and lack of gritstone / any motivation.
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*In an ideal world* do my proj in decent time and spend the rest of the year doing easier stuff and climbing at different crags aka: having a nice time. *all dependent on work, injury and wetness*
Did the route but in September so didn't do much of the second part.
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Lagging way behind here. These are my 2015 goals!
- Recover from current injuries
- Show some discipline and common sense to avoid future injuries
- Climb all the classics in my grade range surely a bit of a life goal
- Buy a house got there eventually, unfortunately it was in Bristol instead of Sheffield but hope remains high for a return one day
- Finish last year of degree Find it really hard to do anything on this as it's not being forced upon me by my employer and I don't really need it for current role...
- Go walking Not really as interested in this now that I'm not living near the peak
- Use my mountain bike Definitely no longer interested in this one, who wants to buy a mountain bike from me?
2015 was a terrible year, apart from managing my 8a before 30 goal, there wasn't a lot that went right. I ended up quitting my job in Sheffield at the end of the year and returning to Bristol to try and reconcile with my (then) ex-girlfriend. Whilst in Sheffield the focus was always on my girlfriends very evident depression (for which she was medicated for) and how to keep her happy but I'm only just realising now that I was actually depressed too because of all the stress. I often backed out of a lot of social situations because of it and didn't really take advantage of the great scene up there. Despite that, I still met some really inspiring people (you know who you are) and caught glimpses of what life could be like when everything starts to work out.
Mixed feelings on whether the move was a good decision or not but I'm now just trying to move forward with things regardless of what happens on the relationship front and I'm hoping 2017 is the start of better things.
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1. Rehab injuries to the point they don't affect my climbing: Fucked left shoulder, perma-fucked left ring finger & 2x dodgy knees
2. Complete at least 2 of the new routes I've already scoped out/bolted/cleaned: 2x Devil's Gorge, 2x Yorkshire & 2x Pen Trwyn
3. Maintain current continental OS level and push on to doing the double, i.e. 2x f8a in a day (guess i need another Chulilla trip!?)
4. Move out of/change current role at work to escape politik bullshit: lubricant co-engineering with OEMs appeals atm
5. Maintain a significant relationship whilst doing all above
1. Shoulder is much better, ring-finger marginally improved, one knee improved
2. Did newbies at Malham & Parisella's; and a bonus newbie 7c+ at the Gop, South Wales; came close on one of the DG projects, but failed to seal the deal - bolted another at Kilnsey for 2017
3. Fail - Lack of opportunities for OS as much of Boven didn't suit my OS'ing abilities; only did a single 7c+ OS this year Chulilla booked for Feb 2017, so an opportunity to redeem myself then ;D
4. Fail - still in the same job, and politik hasn't gotten any better
5. :wub: Big win of the year - very happy to discover significant others' aptitude for adventurous holidays with a 2 week trekking & diving trip to Jordan :wub:
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Just realised I never put any aims in back in Jan.
I think climbing-wise I've been saying any new 7 by end of year - can't see that happening unless there is some miracle between Xmas and New Year. TBH I'd take the lowball arse-drag dab-tastic 6c at Woodhouse I've been unsuccessfully sieging as a bonus.
On the plus side, I have:
1) Got TTT Jnr mk II on the way
2) Rid myself of a terminally toxic work management structure / environment , though at the cost of doing a job at a workplace I dearly loved
3) Got a new job which seems better in nearly every way
4) Sorted out some fundamental problems with my house that in retrospect have been there since we moved over 2 years ago
5) Got approval to put a board in the cellar (result of 4, will drastically help when 1 happens)
6) Got to Font, albeit a manic 2.5 day long weekend where I climbed like complete crap
For many reasons I have thoroughly disliked 2016, so am kind of living in blind faith that in many ways 2017 can only be better than the last 12 months.
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4. America - Livin' Astro, the rad looking 8b+/8cs at the New, Lucifer, Golden Ticket?, Do a fuck load of climbing
We changed plans so I didn't even get on any of the above. I did have the most awesome 6 weeks in ColoRADo though, where I did more hard stuff than I ever have before, had a 2 week block where I felt indestructible and, more importantly, got engaged. So that was all rather good. Bouldering lots and being the lightest ever since I was pre-puebescent seemed good for me.
:-\ Assuming this isn't some sort of new climbing terminology, congratulations!
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General:
Keep up the antagonistic training I've done a pretty good job of this - Pilates once a week, did the strength and conditioning class at Hallam uni gym for a while, and more recently have been doing a good amount of antag work as part of my training programme. I've also realised that antag stuff is a great warm-down and that doing a warm-down is more effective than simply doing static stretches after climbing.
Start a structured training programme again. Been doing this for about 2 months now. Going really well and enjoying it. I've had a finger injury since before I started which is nearly better, so hopefully back on the fingerboarding soon
Sort out job. Biggest tick here. Found out this weekend I have got a new job. Bit of a dream job and includes more money and more time to climb!
Sport:
RP 3 7cs done 5 7cs. Subjectively, at the start of the year 7c felt like "this is really hard, I really want do it" and have now slipped to "7c? may as well"
Try something harder than 7c Did a 7c+ (in a couple of goes) and my first 8a. Didn't expect to do an 8a this year, my main aim being to do a signle 7c, so this felt like a great achievement.
Trad:
Onsight 5 E5s This year I've onsighted 5 e5s, flashed 3 and done a few ground up. I've had a really good year of trad (which means a good year all round!) having climbed relatively hard in lots of new places
Flash or Onsight E6 I flashed Nosferatu but that's only e5 really. The only other e6 I tried I headpointed
Do more routes which I find hard/scary: Roofs, exposed corners, jamming cracks. I've certainly done well on the exposure front by climbing on sea cliffs, and I feel better about this in general. I've done relatively more jamming, but not enough.
Climb on Sea Cliffs for the first time Pembroke, Anglesey tick. Being in Cheque's new film has been great. Keen to get around to more sea cliffs next year, particularly Cornwall
Headpoint something e6 or above which is near my physical limit I headpointed Perplexity at Millestone which, whilst not at my limit, was still quite hard
Bouldering:
Get back in to bouldering, do more 7bs (same as last year!) Half a tick. I've been really getting in to bouldering since starting my training programme, which is great. I've done multiple 7a/+ since then and flashed my first proper 7a. Haven't tried any 7bs.
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:-\ Assuming this isn't some sort of new climbing terminology, congratulations!
Thanks! (yeah, it's not some new obscure terminology for a niche bit of training!)
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This is it for the year.
Main goal is the usual: E5. Fail. Three E4s and some quasi-E4 abroad so the base of the pyramid is a little higher. Gave Supersonic a shot but had lost the necessary fitness and form by the time I got on it.
7b RP (Clashing Socks, Empire of the Sun, Still Waters Run Deep). Get on a 7b+. Not close. Usual 7a onsight but neither Spring nor Autumn sport campaigns happened.
Climb at Gogarth and Fairhead. Pentire, Hoy and Ceuse (the Fairhead of sport climbing) were fine alternatives.
Climb at Font. at least once. Family orientated trip, but still had a great time of course. The lad is really into bouldering outdoors, not quite so syked by climbing walls.
Rabada-Navarro +1 other at Naranjo de Bulnes. A 38 year old project - very satisfying.
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives. Very good trips to Picos, Wendenstock and Hoy.
Keep doing shoulder and other supportive exercises assiduously. Managed this most of the year. Lapsed in Autumn as generally burnt-out from climbing and other things and the left 'good' shoulder has been troublesome for the last three months.
Try hard enough, often enough, to fall off at least one trad. route. Fell off Supersonic several times and generally tried a bit harder on trad.
Overall, a good year for climbing. Most of the action was concentrated in a 6 weeks summer period when the family were away. Clearly divorce is my best option!
I sustained my first ever significant finger injury which took out January to March and meant I was always catching-up on fitness. September to December were unproductive for the more familiar reasons of post-trip burn-out, work issues, and a shoulder niggle.
Feel like I am making glacial progress towards E5. The only change was trying harder to the point of falling occasionally, but it's good to be reminded how important this is. It's surprising how little trad. mileage I did. BITD I considered I needed 50 leads to get from E1 - and better fitness - to E5. Three more weekend trips in April or May might have been enough.
Sport and bouldering have been in complete stasis, I must address this in 2017.
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3. Trad - Right Wall, London Wall, Lubyanka. followed Fiend up a couple of XS routes
That was a good weekend and great having you along, all went smoothly. Great Crack Of Porth Oer "I'll just stop saying 'below' now, just assume whenever I make a move I mean 'below'" ;D
Shout out to Duncan too :) And Spielberg himself of course. :yes:
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Complete 2 routes of 7c-8a in each of 3 peak phases: Managed 1 x 8a, 3 x 7c+ and 3 x 7c. Finishing Aberration would have been nice for another 8a but opted to focus on the RHS of Tor while it was dry. So no biggy, it'll be dry again by April.
Raindogs - did some good links over 2 sessions in Spring then lost interest
Powerplant - never dried
Call of Nature, Why Me? YYFY
Sissy - didn't manage to get on it
Body Machine - YYFY - complete with obligatory fall from the end of traverse prior to success.
plus other Peak WIPs - Obscene Gesture, Laughing at the Rain, Obscene Toilet
raise OS level from occasional 7a to consistent 7b, number of 7a & 7a+ OS, flashed Tin Of, the only 7b I tried.
consistently OS E4 - Flakey Wall & Resurrection top of hit list. - Few E3s, as ever didn;t do enough.
Make at least one trip somewhere with mountains
Always wet when I have free weekend
Fuck all the red, still the best year ever.
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Mid Term review
Alpine/trad goal: a couple of decent summer trips on alpine rock routes and/or uk trad.
Having trad or alpine ambitions is pointless for me at the moment. I simply don't have the time free in the summer. Too many family commitments in the UK. My dad died last year, my mum moved into a home this year and on the more positive side, my son loves spending time with my brother & sister. So I've spent the bulk of my summer holidays over there for the last couple of years and will do for the foreseeable future. That leaves only a few weekends per summer free for alpine adventures, and then the weather is a huge random factor. I simply won't realistically get the mileage in to improve or aspire. So I'll accept being only an occasional alpinist, do whatever I get done and be happy.
Three decent trips so far: Oberreintal, Dolomites, Kaisergebirge. Two classics ticked in decent style, arse thoroughly kicked on the third. Success.
sport climbing.
2016: 7b
Decent spring season. My first 7a-in-a-day was followed by my first 7a+, also in a day. The 7a+ was almost an anticlimax: three moves of actual climbing, the purest bouldering-on-a-rope I've done, with the rest about VS.
On the minus side for the autumn: my planned partner for a trip to Spain can't make it due to pressure of work. On the plus side, I have another regular partner who has a very nice looking 7b+ (soft, supposedly) that he wants to project in the Frankenjura.
Am regarding my current alpine activities as the Base Mileage training phase.
... and nothing further to report.
A year that started well then fizzled. For a variety of reasons - illness, family, weather - barely got out at all in the Autumn. Did a solid amount of indoor bouldering though, could call that a strength phase of sorts, and now transitioning into trying to acquire some power endurance in time for the postponed Spain trip in (hopefully, tbc) early spring.
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Think my goals where to solidify at 7C+ and work towards moving up further... i did one more 7C+ this year (very close on walk on now though). But to be honest I've lost most of my psyche for climbing and have taken up Muay Thai kickboxing instead. Struggling to balance the love of climbing with the love of kickboxing....
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I'm not sure I actually posted any goals but those that I set at the beginning of the year for my training plan were:
O/S 7a
Flash 7b
RP 7c
Become Chartered
Get a job I'm happy with.
I got quite a few 7a O/S this year which has boosted my confidence a lot. It seems to be a grade I know I can do and expect to flash them if I route read correctly and don't give in.
I flashed a 7b+ at Gandia a few weeks a go having failed on some earlier in the year. It's definitely soft (7a+/b) but I'll take it as a holiday grade.
I only tried a few 7c this year: tremolo and a 7c+in the costa blanca. Tremolo felt like it would go but being in London until July and then having a dissertation to write through the summer put a stop to my Malham intentions. Nearly did the one in CB but grabbed the draw rather than the jug - typical.
On the life front, I gained chartership in October and got a job I'm happy with in June which means I'll be permanently in Leeds for 4 years (until my girlfriend finished her PhD) and I can have some normality in my life. We also bought a narrowboat on which we now reside. We think it's great and it means we can live out near Gargrave this summer meaning after work hits to Malham and Kilnsey will be easier.
Overall I'm happy with how my climbing has been, I've not got out much in the UK and haven't trained much since March. Despite a few finger injuries I've managed to maintain and slightly increase my level and I'm (despite a pulley injury) in a good position to move into 2017. Just need to meet some more Leeds locals so feel free to drop me a message if you want to get out anytime on the grit or limestone.
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TomToms aims for 2016:
I did brilliantly! No targets meant I have overperformed in 2016!
16 new 7A's
8 new 7A+'s
2 7B's
Not as good as last year, but the arrival of TT jnr has got in the way somewhat! (as well as being my highlight of 2016!)
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Better late than never...
- Bouldering wise - any of the following would be good: Brad Pit, The Joker, Tetris, Roof of a Baby Buddha, Cosmic Wheels, Special K, Lotus, Mr Fantastic, Stoned Temple Pilots, Diesel Power, Rock Atrocity, Lou Ferrino...
- Would also really like to do a trip to Swizzy having never been before.
- But my main aim and new long term goal is 8b sport.
I don't think I did a single sport climb. WTF 2016?
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I had these as my rough aims (started posting on here mid-way through the year):
Fix wrist and keep it fixed/untorn Since injured knee, pulleys, elbow..... :furious:
Sport: 7b+ YYFY, ticked one earlier in the year then retired from sport climbing
Bouldering: Get solid at 7B and do a few more 7B+s Done a couple of soft 7B+s which I think is good given the number of injuries I've had
Trad: Do some (preferably HPs)
Trips: Slovenia in March, maybe China or similar later... Went to Swizzy instead so I'm happy
Maybe get back to one arm pull-ups Ish
Get total up to 100 7s (on 49 at start of year) So close, on 92 7s (boulders) which is pretty good going considering injuries and the fact I live in London :2thumbsup:
Not a bad year all in all
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CLIMBING
1) Try harder to get out bouldering before the limestone sport starts - too many wet days have robbed me of the mojo to even bother dragging the mats into the car, let alone properly project anything - anything off the grit tick list would be a bonus.
Fail with mitigating circumstances - weather never really played ball before the routes season started. Managed one quality tick - Scary Canary in a short session - but not much progress really.
2) Keep up the new-found enjoyment of finger-boarding - once, preferably twice, a week - more for contrast/relief from work than any real aim at improving my climbing.
Pass - still doing blocks of fingerboarding (though having a break from it right now due to pain from a nasty fall - feel like I have torn something in my chest, plus my old neck / shoulder badness has reawakened). Quite pleased with the little set-up I now have in my attic - transgression fingerboard, pulleys and weights, weight-vest, fan for mitigating the summer heat, heater for mitigating the winter cold. The next step: MAGNETS!!!!
3) Continue to work through the usual suspects at Malham / Kilnsey. Next up: GBH (onto The Groove or Overnite if successful). At Kilnsey, either one of the long extensions at the left side (Bullet or Stolen), or embrace the likelihood of years-long failure and get on Grooved Arete.
Pass - pretty good year - managed 13 routes of 7c+ and harder this year at the King and Queen of my home stamping grounds. Highlights were Stolen (my first, and likely only ever 8b/a+), Overnite, GBH, Last Action Hero, and A Mighty Fine Ass. Next year, I am hoping to get stuck into Predator and maybe the Groove.... open to suggestions for a Kilnsey project (Vanilla Path, Ecstacy?!)
4) Climb something "substantial" not at Malham or Kilnsey - preferably Supercool at Gordale, or maybe something at Yew Cogar or Chapel or Giggleswick.
Partial - did Cave Route LH at Gordale and had a few sessions on Supercool but never really got close to RPing. Still, well up for a return to see Supercool off, or maybe Defcon; although, the usual Gordale problems may well scotch my intentions - finding partners and the risk of killing tourists at weekends. Also feel a need to back to Chapel to reacquaint myself with the 7c+s at the right-hand side - Righteous Doctors etc - and to get stuck into something in the Peak - maybe at Cheedale Cornice.
NON-CLIMBING
5) Keep trying to re-balance the work/life balance - work smarter during office hours and reduce the slightly needless number of late nights in the office (taking up finger-boarding has been somewhat successful in encouraging this).
6) Drink booze less often.
7) Spend less nights titting about on the internet and more time reading books or watching decent films.
8 Go to some live events - comedy, music, football, theatre, boxing, whatever - try to experience less of the stuff I purport to love filtered through a screen.
Failure on all fronts really.
Managed a 50 day tee-total period but this was in response to drinking too much, too often beforehand, and I haven't covered myself in glory since. Still spending too many late nights in the office (during my last appraisal, my line manager, seemed bewildered by my seeming lack of ambition - I think he has mistaken drowning for treading-water). Went to no live events and still spend too much time idly browsing the net. Only recent uptick is that I am reading more enthusiastically of late.
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I'm not sure I actually posted any goals but those that I set at the beginning of the year for my training plan were:
O/S 7a
Flash 7b
RP 7c
Become Chartered
Get a job I'm happy with.
I got quite a few 7a O/S this year which has boosted my confidence a lot. It seems to be a grade I know I can do and expect to flash them if I route read correctly and don't give in.
I flashed a 7b+ at Gandia a few weeks a go having failed on some earlier in the year. It's definitely soft (7a+/b) but I'll take it as a holiday grade.
I only tried a few 7c this year: tremolo and a 7c+in the costa blanca. Tremolo felt like it would go but being in London until July and then having a dissertation to write through the summer put a stop to my Malham intentions. Nearly did the one in CB but grabbed the draw rather than the jug - typical.
On the life front, I gained chartership in October and got a job I'm happy with in June which means I'll be permanently in Leeds for 4 years (until my girlfriend finished her PhD) and I can have some normality in my life. We also bought a narrowboat on which we now reside. We think it's great and it means we can live out near Gargrave this summer meaning after work hits to Malham and Kilnsey will be easier.
Overall I'm happy with how my climbing has been, I've not got out much in the UK and haven't trained much since March. Despite a few finger injuries I've managed to maintain and slightly increase my level and I'm (despite a pulley injury) in a good position to move into 2017. Just need to meet some more Leeds locals so feel free to drop me a message if you want to get out anytime on the grit or limestone.
this sounds like a fucking great year
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this sounds like a fucking great year
Yeah I'm definitely chuffed with it - but it's seriously been lacking in getting out in the UK. The boat has taken up many weekends doing DIY. Looking at my logbook I've only climbed 6 sport routes in the UK this year over 4 sessions. Everything else was on the trips to Spain and Chamonix spread over 5/6 weeks which was great.
Had a couple of bouldering sessions in the UK too and managed a couple of 7's but loads less than I would have liked. Though finally doing Morrell's Wall at Almscliff made up for that.
Happy that I've a good base to work from in the new year and now that I'm settled (and out of London) I'll hopefully be on the Yorkshire limestone twice a week when it's dry - I've a chat with my boss about dropping to 4 days a week (or 9 day fortnights) once Christmas is out the way.
Maybe my LTG of The Groove at Malham by 2020 (without sieging it) will be on track...
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Climb Arch Enemies/New Dawn/Raindogs/Pierrepoint
Get on Supercool and K3
Do something of relative merit in Siurana at Easter
Get down to the South West more (Ansteys, Brean, Cheddar etc)
Rein in back in and climb classic E3 routes all over and become a competent and safe climber, been the butt of the joke for too long and it's funny up until I tool myself.
Enjoy bouldering, I.e. get out and have fun on circuits with a good team. Get on Suavito ffs!
General:
Don't fuck it up
Keep saving
See family more
Apply self at new job
Ride a horse
Get Nige on hard sport (the 3rd reincarnation of Kershaw)
Good luck everyone
Sport climbing -
I had a few more sessions on Arch Enemies, best effort trying to get into undercut/pod. I find it very frustrating but am enjoying plugging on. Had a bolt to bolt on Raindogs again and was happy to find easier beta (and easier routes for girlfriend!)
After a good day at Malham in May getting Herbie and Obsession I lost the knack but did get on K3 and Supercool to check out if they would be possible in the future. I'm more keen on Supercool, obvs, but I can't resist that cornice burl. Keen to get keen for them.
The Siurana trip wasn't good but had a great time at Gorge Du Tarn in September, onsighted 7b for the first time, a softy I think but c'est le guiebook. Wonderful area.
South west
went to Brean, cheddar, sennen, bosigran, Torbryan (amazing) and haytor. Really enjoying these places and will be living down there next year for a bit so hopefully get to try hard at Ansteys etc
Trad
Minimal, yellow edge on Avon Gorge being the highlight. Hard not be safe with threads that big.
Bouldering
Had some fun days though have fallen out of love with Gritstone, finally tried Suavito but can not for the life of me get the crimp up and left, so hard. Did get to the 3rd side pull on WSS though which is dream of mine to lash out.
Other
Don't fuck it up
Keep saving
See family more
Apply self at new job
Ride a horse
Get Nige on hard sport
Didn't fuck it up, kept saving (leave for NZ/SEasia on January 2nd, woop!). On the train to see my dad now, left job on good note so hopefully some temp work from them when I get back. Nige sold me his very big and very small shoes so guess that's that then. Didn't ride a horse but did find a blow up boat in the garage down south, anyone got a cheap outboard? Also went to see any questions being recorded.
Happy Christmas and new year everyone, good luck with your future plans
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Trad
Minimal, yellow edge on Avon Gorge being the highlight. Hard not be safe with threads that big.
Unless you pull off the hollow handledge on the reachy move into the borehole on P1 with wires a long way down and left and enough ledges to hit :unsure: Great route but a lot dodgier than the guidebook implies.
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Rehab Finger - done, plus various other injuries since.
8a - no, but did first 7c+ and some quick 7c's. Didn't really try an 8a, probably my major failing.
Do some trad - yes, but not much of it.
Not actually that bad a year when i think back. Good job everyone else!
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Trad
Minimal, yellow edge on Avon Gorge being the highlight. Hard not be safe with threads that big.
Unless you pull off the hollow handledge on the reachy move into the borehole on P1 with wires a long way down and left and enough ledges to hit :unsure: Great route but a lot dodgier than the guidebook implies.
Yikes. Yeah sorry, my lead was the steady pitch 2, pitch 1 can fuck off. Shaley bolted death 'adventure'.
Amazing last pitch, got knee bars and would love to think I would've used them on lead (no)
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Looking forward to 2016. Some things I'd like to do this year:
- Get back into shape and do some climbing.
A good first half of the year with trips to El Chorro early on with Martin to get my mojo back; a really great and fun weekend in Siurana with Bridbeast, csl and Shurt, a scary day out to Boulder Ruckle with Duncan, a top weekend with loads of people for Fatneck's birthday in Abersoch, a weekend in Swizzy with an old schoolmate at Magic Wood & Chironico, a weekend in Wales with old friends from Sheffield and the locals and a lovely day out on the grit with Mike Harrison climbing for his first time out for over twenty years. After that it all went downhill climbing wise but I wasn't too bothered. Just started training again for a trip to Buis at the end of Feb with loads of mates from Sheffield.
- Continue the good work on the music front, write some songs & do more gigs.
A good year. Lots of guitar playing and some DJ'ing. Guitar playing has really come on with more forays into Jazz and modal stuff... did some low key gigs with friends
- Do some writing.
Nope.
- Become a Dad.
Still trying... next year is going to be expensive.
- Get a new job/career that's fun, challenging, pays the bills and doesn't dominate my life like the last five years.
Tick. Happy with being self employed. Have been pretty much full-time since May and it looks like it will continue into 2017.
It's also meant that I've been able to fulfil an ambition to begin training as a Psychotherapist. A five year programme starts in January and I'm really excited about it. :bounce:
- Go surfing somewhere interesting like Orkney or South America.
Didn't surf at all.
- See all my friends & help my family sort some problems out.
Saw lots of friends and didn't see some. Family stuff is stable for now...
Have a great Christmas everyone and best wishes for the New Year :beer2:
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Didn't write anything on here but had a few things written out. A bit of a mixed bag but mostly good progress.
Climbing
Try some 8As. Nope. Have ticked a few 7B+/Cs but not really made much progress towards doing an 8A.
Do an 8a. Call of Nature Raven Tor.
E7 ground up Grand Potato with about 10 pads so not really.
Right wall/Strapadictomy and other E5s. Tempest/Pool Wall/Rattus Norvegicus. Also flashed Desolation Angel. No right wall or strapadictomy though!
Climb something big. Motorhead/Septumania - Grimsel Pass. Luna Nascente - Mello.
DWS
Ariege
Northumberland
Dont get injured Got away with one finger tweak and a touch of golfers elbow so compared to previous years a blinding success!
Slacklining
Walk 75m Managed a new PB of 70m but didn't manage 75m and lost interest towards the end of the year.
Highlining. Good sessions at Hallam University and Hull Dock lines.
Life
Get a car.
Do well on MSc.
Get a Phd.
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I've got 2 more climbing days left (weather permitting) which might see me pull off a magic trick....
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Sort out irritating niggly collateral ligament tweak which I stupidly retweaked yesterday, and then:
Trad:
Onsight 5 E5s after a few years of neglecting trad almost altogether, ideally Extreme Rock ones.
Climb E6 (again).
Get out in Scotland.
Sport:
Overnight Sensation, The Groove, Love amongst the Butterflies (all of which done in overlapping sections 2015)
8a abroad, possibly in Margalef in March.
Statement of Youth
If going ok find a suitable project 8b or harder to get stuck into
Bouldering
7b on the lime
Brad Pit, eatswood traverse,
Get over to Wales at least a couple of times
Collateral ligament damage totally sorted...
Everything else mostly failed, although I did do 2 8as abroad in 2 days, second and first go respectively. Unfortunately, I then smashed my head to smithereens, and broke my wrist into the bargain which put paid to any more climbing from June. I'd got a PB highpoint on the groove about an hour before too, which I'd basically forgotten about until just now.
Other scraped positives... Would probably have knocked out a couple of 8a+s given slightly better conditions in Spain in may. Had started with a few bits of lime bouldering and even enjoyed some of it.
Now reaching the dizzy heights of 6b+ on top rope at the wall, and almost bench pressing body weight... I am currently actually pretty pleased with both of these.
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I've got 2 more climbing days left (weather permitting) which might see me pull off a magic trick....
my thoughts exactly...
...can you give me a spot?
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Sort out irritating niggly collateral ligament tweak which I stupidly retweaked yesterday, and then:
Trad:
Onsight 5 E5s after a few years of neglecting trad almost altogether, ideally Extreme Rock ones.
Climb E6 (again).
Get out in Scotland.
Sport:
Overnight Sensation, The Groove, Love amongst the Butterflies (all of which done in overlapping sections 2015)
8a abroad, possibly in Margalef in March.
Statement of Youth
If going ok find a suitable project 8b or harder to get stuck into
Bouldering
7b on the lime
Brad Pit, eatswood traverse,
Get over to Wales at least a couple of times
Collateral ligament damage totally sorted...
Everything else mostly failed, although I did do 2 8as abroad in 2 days, second and first go respectively. Unfortunately, I then smashed my head to smithereens, and broke my wrist into the bargain which put paid to any more climbing from June. I'd got a PB highpoint on the groove about an hour before too, which I'd basically forgotten about until just now.
Other scraped positives... Would probably have knocked out a couple of 8a+s given slightly better conditions in Spain in may. Had started with a few bits of lime bouldering and even enjoyed some of it.
Now reaching the dizzy heights of 6b+ on top rope at the wall, and almost bench pressing body weight... I am currently actually pretty pleased with both of these.
That's a great comeback, won't it feel great to do the groove now Ey? I've found your desire to get back to strength very inspiring Toby.
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Sort out injured knee (meniscal tear) then: I had the op on April 19th (Tore it way back on October 12th... Shambles NHS Waiting list!) They removed most of my left meniscus.
7C on peak lime No lime 7C's this year :( I spent most of my summer chumming about on a rope. Highlight was getting 'Out of my tree' start re-worked and wired ready for the route.
7C+ on peak grit No Grit 7C's this year. Had to make do with four 7B's, incl. Monochrome, which I flashed... and 'Piss' which I did second go (Obvs all with a limp left knee)
8a on peak lime Spent 3-4 sessions working 'Out of my Tree' at Raven Tor. got all the moves done before my wedding/honeymoon in August!
Multiple personal training goals. Spending 10-11 hrs. during the week training hard either gets you strong or injured, and at times it's a thin line!
DIY goals: I move into a new house in Jan so will have a woody and a garden to build. Major goal smashed! Been spending a lot of time on the house and garden and they both look great :)
I'm also getting married in August so have significant stag do goals! Amazing stag do Nr Kirkby Stephen in North Yorks. One-off wedding at Gradbach, and a much deserved 2-week honeymoon (only even been away for a 2-week holiday once before that) in Split, Croatia... Which I highly recommend to you all (Split, not necessarily a honeymoon!)
All the best for Christmas crushing/rest and all the best for decent gains in the new year ;D
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That's a great comeback, won't it feel great to do the groove now Ey? I've found your desire to get back to strength very inspiring Toby.
Cheers Guy! Good to see you again on Tuesday. Have a great Christmas. Give me a shout if you want a list of recommendations for Thai if you are going to the south.
I forgot to mention, winner of 2016 is the foundry. Been down a handful of times recently, and I'd forgotten how friendly and inspiring everyone down there is. Best wall in the world, no question.
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I set no goals this year, and thus have neither failed, nor succeeded. Perfect.
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Bouldering: 7C (which is not at Trowbarrow or in any way Vitruvian man related).
Routes: more than last year's abysmal showing, so an 8a in the Peak would be nice.
Trad: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Spending most of the year struggling with tendonitis in my left elbow and carpal tunnel in my right wrist put any aims out of the window. Still, did a cracking 7b+ at Llandulas which was a brilliantl surprise.
But after what happened to Toby D I have no room to complain. Get well soon pal.
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1) Not get injured and maintain current reasonable bouldering form
Disaster right from the get go (gecko). Fucked thumb skiing end of April, hardly climbed most of the summer - which meant most of the below didn't happen.
2) Do some more mountain rock routes, maybe tick a few more Classic Rock routes (although nearest ones are now Glencoe / Nevis)
see above
3) Do some more routes indoors instead of bouldering
see above
4) nail 3 last remaining bouldering projects locally
see above
5) Do the DWS traverse
see above
6) Get some great powder riding in in the Alps
Fuck yes
7) Do a ski tour / bit of ski mountaineering in the Alps (nothing massive, the Roc d'Enfer (or at least part of it) looks like a good objective)
Hell No. In hindsight unless it was a very unusual set of circumstances the two were pretty much mutually exclusive.
8) Get back to some surfing again (last year was not a good year)
Had another average year locally, couple of great days in the water on Lanzarote but had some great days out on the SUP on flat days though
9) Do some local ski touring (on new skis I'm about to buy), and if conditions don't allow, some easier (II/III) winter routes.
Had some brilliant touring days, in spite of one of them resulting in a destroyed thumb
10) ski Glencoe
negative
11) Take more photos, and do something with them
yes - spent a lot on kit, started a facebook page, actually sold one or two.
12) Don't be so lazy when it comes to Aurora chasing
One minor tick so far for the year, hopefully more to come
Upgrade this - had some really successful nights - kit upgrade has made a major difference.
13) Hang on to job in current crisis in the industry
Unbelievably still here
14) Man up and take back extra time I work with no credit
Done OK this year - quite a few days I could have had off were taken up sorting out the estate of a close relative, but didn't do much working from home in evenings like last year.
Plus side to the injury and not getting much climbing done was discovering the simple joys of road biking and running, and finding out my grindy knee which i thought would get worse because of them is still holding up OK. CV fitness is better than it's been for ages, and looking forward to doing some ski touring days out where I'm not the one at the back breathing out my arse.
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
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I set no goals this year, and thus have neither failed, nor succeeded. Perfect.
I'll retro-set you one Will, be a smug twat, good effort! :icon_beerchug:
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I set no goals this year, and thus have neither failed, nor succeeded. Perfect.
I'll retro-set you one Will, be a smug twat, good effort! :icon_beerchug:
Been training all year for that one. Tickety fucking tick :strongbench:
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Cheers Andy. I really appreciate all the support I've had from the UKB collective this year. I've needed it. Could have been worse though, I'm not whining, there are others in a far worse place than me.
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Cheers Andy. I really appreciate all the support I've had from the UKB collective this year. I've needed it. Could have been worse though, I'm not whining, there are others in a far worse place than me.
Yep.
Shark just found out he's stronger than Hayden and lost his last excuse for failing the Oak!
A mere hole in the head pales by comparison...
[emoji12]
Good luck in the New Year though, you were looking stronger between meetings already and a BW bench is pretty good.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
<peers out of the window at horizontal rain, and checks forecast>...
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
<peers out of the window at horizontal rain, and checks forecast>...
Nice and warm in my training room. So my new 2016 goal is a one armer with a 2kg weight belt. 3-2-1...
And Nope.
Roll that over to 2017 then.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
<peers out of the window at horizontal rain, and checks forecast>...
Nice and warm in my training room. So my new 2016 goal is a one armer with a 2kg weight belt. 3-2-1...
And Nope.
Roll that over to 2017 then.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There's still a week left, that's at least two more sessions. You could even drop 2kg in body weight in that time... :strongbench:
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Try to avoid convention
Score!
Do the Tosheroon
Fail. Not ever fit at a suitable time
Do the Marchlyn project
Fail. Something to do with not training since 2014
Rebalance my body
started, but my hip is a bit stubborn
Do something surprises me
Neverfall, Bertleman Slide and 7A+ outside. A year of injury, work and kids so these successes are a score!
Next year I will try training...
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
<peers out of the window at horizontal rain, and checks forecast>...
Nice and warm in my training room. So my new 2016 goal is a one armer with a 2kg weight belt. 3-2-1...
And Nope.
Roll that over to 2017 then.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There's still a week left, that's at least two more sessions. You could even drop 2kg in body weight in that time... :strongbench:
Connies looking O.K here, hoping for 4 outdoor sessions, with the first on Christmas day :punk:, could all so easily change though.
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Mixed bag - some successes, some works in progress, some not to bes.....
Still potential to turn a decent chunk of it green, if I'm lucky.....
Ah go on I'll get involved. Some of these would be good, all of them and I'd be stoked.
1. Over the winter, V6/7 at home, in Albarracin and in Bishop. Try V8 at home some point. Some sort of hardish winter sport project - cuttings or whatever. Fighting torque maybe?
Mixed. V6 in Albarracin, at home and in Bishop, but no harder and none of the big Bishop classics. Not really done any bouldering since return from Bishop, but need to get back into it.
2. Actually get on Infinite Gravity. Maybe also try Fuel my Fire, Cider Soak and some harder Portland ticks (mainly west coast high 7s)
- IG season isn't yet open but I've been canvassing for partners.
- Spent 3 days on Cider Soak and keen for a rematch
- Done Saskatchewan Uranium Miner for one of my classic west coast 7 ticks
- Not been near Fuel my Fire.
3. "Short trip" 8a send. If I can get an onsighting trip organised, try to break through into 7b+/c territory.
3 days on Mediterranean in Feb with good progress but no tick. Onsighting trip looks unlikely with my remaining holiday, as does another sport redpoint trip.
4. Trad. Get my mojo back, get back onto some E4s and have a decent go at an E5.
Got on some E3s, but nothing more as yet. Getting back in the game, just need more miles and more opportunities.
5. This, and be actually on my mental and physical game for it this time
Get ducks in a row for trips to Switzerland, Dolomites, Verdon or other longish, hardish & freeish objectives.
A few weeks till we go!
6. Build on last year's reintroduction to dws, get some obvious Swanage and Devon classics done and push the boat out a bit at Lulworth - 7b+ or more?
Back into Lulworth season now, early days though.
7. Buy a house, continue to get on well at work, complete other goals (cycling). Try to make various potential reunions with far flung road trip friends come about.
House and cycling done
Reunions, well, sadly didn't really work out. There's always next year.
No progress on a number of these.
1. No more bouldering - pregnant wife stopped bouldering first of everything so we did more roped stuff.
2. Got a bit more time on Cider Soak and made definite progress but otherwise not much. Did get down into the cave and am psyched for schwarzchild radius as well as IG
3. No progress, no more hard sport trips
4. A few E3s are !y lot. Thought I was going well end of august but the death of a friend took the wind out of my sails.
5. Still got spanked but felt a lot better in myself, less feeble performance
6.did surprisingly little dws this year
7. Got the house, did the biking, continued to do well at work. Failed on road trips.
It looks like serious underachievement! However, I've done a lot of life stuff - nearly (23 Jan!?) become a dad, bought a house, done a bunch of stuff to it (serious garden admin etc which I'm actually pretty satisfied with the result of) and that sort of thing. That distracted a lot of my summer, but actually I had a really focused spring of training and climbing, made definite progress on Cider Soak which is a step up from previous projects, had an excellent trip to Montserrat and had admittedly very brief glimpses of a world in which I could get back into the headspace of pushing the boat out on trad. So overall not a bad one...
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Aims for 2016
.....
Success will be signified by getting properly light (BMI of 20)
This would have meant getting under 58kgs. I failed. But by 62kgs, the lightest of my adult life, everyone was telling me I had nothing left to lose. In hindsight they were right.
...
as a means to an end of climbing several 7Bs
Climbed more 7s in September than during the rest of my life. Three of them were 7B. Admittedly, this was also cos I found lime relatively easy. Was still struggling with grit.
...
and maybe even harder.
Missed the boat on this. Put everything (apart from being smart about it) into a 7C/+ that I was sure would go "next time" until I had to call time on it and move on. It's a certainty that different tactics would likely have resulted in a bunch more 7B/+ and probably harder but hindsight is a wonderful thing.
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
<peers out of the window at horizontal rain, and checks forecast>...
Nice and warm in my training room. So my new 2016 goal is a one armer with a 2kg weight belt. 3-2-1...
And Nope.
Roll that over to 2017 then.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could even drop 2kg in body weight in that time...
I think you're slightly missing the point here Chambers...
;)
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1. Oak. Be in shape for final summit push in the Spring
Was in reasonable shape but didn’t reach the summit either then or the autumn
2. Open accounts on Bat Route and/or Mecca (sorry)
No point trying when still stuck on the Oak
3. Get weight down to sub 11 from end of Jan onwards / cut down on booze
Took a while to shift the weight but ended up being sub11 for a reasonable proportion of the year and some periods of minimal alcohol
4. Read a novel a month – regain reading habit
Fail. Managed most of Mervyn Kings End of Alchemy but hardly qualifies as a novel
5. Watch a classic film with my eldest once a month
Tick. This has been great though I did feel slightly betrayed when he watched two parts of the Godfather without me.
6. For Tommy to redpoint Raindogs
Chain grabbed in May YYFY. Unfortunately he lost his mojo after that
7. Ambitious family trip in Summer again (Squamish again or South Africa or the States)
Cant remember why this didn’t happen. Had a lot to do with Sonias new job I think. We did go to the Briancon area for a fortnight though
8. 3x1 week away (non-family) climbing trips (Chulilla, Fairhead, Pembroke and two more)
Managed Chulilla in Jan. My best 5 days onsight performance ever. Also got out to Fairhead for the first time with Conners and had a week bouldering in Wales with Tommy.
9. Tick off at least 3 outstanding projects: Anger Management, Jericho Road, Rattle and Hump, eatswood Reverse, Brad Pit, Blind Date, Kudos, Bens Roof
Only one – ER. Came very close on JR and closish on BD. The others I didn’t really try.
10. Increase absolute crimp and drag strength by 5kg
Don't know - not been doing max hangs for a while
11. Onsight attempt Reproduction at High Tor
FAIL Did quite a bit of trad staring with the Fairhead trip and then taking advantage of the Chee Tor revival. Managed to do Roadrunner on the hottest day of the year. Lost confidence late summer and my trad climbing ended in ignominy failing on E3’s in North Wales.
12. Put up a new hard sport and trad route
Tick. Both good and big routes on High Tor. Got new route fervour bad for a few weeks. Dementia E56a,6a,5b with Bonjoy and Big Cigar 7c with Conners.
All told not a bad year seeing as I didn't do the Oak.
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Bunch of fucking slackers, there's more than a week left of the year! I'm hoping to get more sessions in before the end of the year than in the last couple of months.
<peers out of the window at horizontal rain, and checks forecast>...
Nice and warm in my training room. So my new 2016 goal is a one armer with a 2kg weight belt. 3-2-1...
And Nope.
Roll that over to 2017 then.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You could even drop 2kg in body weight in that time...
I think you're slightly missing the point here Chambers...
;)
[emoji16]
I don't get it though. 3 sets of 3 one arm pull ups on each arm? No problem (well, bit ropy on the third set). Add a 2kg weight, can't even f'ing start!
My year is ruined! Destroyed!
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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I accept defeat, horrible conditions for me at the moment, don't think much is going to change before Saturday
1. Go to Railay and get strong on limestone. (No, stayed 5 days, missus didn't like it, food not good enough, once again proving family holidays and climbing don't mix)
2. BM my way through February. (No, terrible weather meant I just climbed indoors)
3. Tick off some of my ever growing project list...Travaux forcé and Gigi being the ones I want the most. (Some 5C/6A stuff, but nothing harder, bad year for getting on rock, nexy year for Travaux forcé and Gigi, certainly possible)
4. Stay uninjured. (No, at least 2 months lost with severe sprained ankle, still some random twangs)
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Balance family life and climbing with our 2nd child due in April - A big tick for this one, little 'un was born at the end of March and I managed my hardest ticks of any year. Even managed a Peak camping/climbing trip for a week in July when she was 4 months old with minimal stress.
Boulder:
1. 7A on Grit - Did a soft 6C+, didn't really try any 7A's on the grit.
2. Something harder than 7A anywhere -Did quite a few 7A's and did 2 7A+'s and a 7B (long trav)
Routes:
1. Left Wall Traverse (The Cave) - Tick
2. Flowers are for the Dead (Dinbren) - Tick
3. Try an 8a (Elite Syncopations - Dinbren) - Didn't try any 8a's.
4. Boat People (Diamond) - Switched this to trying another 7c on the Diamond, multiple sessions and got painfully close. Obvious lack of fitness.
5. Little Orme Project - Had one go on it then ended up bolting 4 other new routes, 2 of which I did and 3 of which are now goals for 2017.
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- Get stuck in to a proper project
- ...but get it done within the year (preferably without too much weeping at the bottom of the crag, sacrificing of first born children etc.)
- Trips to font, buoux, fairhead, mallorca, chorro
- Try to keep the font ticklist under control (preferably by ticking off large parts of it)
- Get scared on some DWS (preferably towards the top of adrenochrome)
- Cutlass
- Wizard of Oz, if I can get keen enough for another go
Partial success on the project front. Put up some good esoteric boulder problems. Total fail on the route front. Couple of exploratory burns on things but no commitment.
Managed some good trips this year, including font, fairhead, mallorca, siurana and some good stuff in the UK.
Font ticklist saw minimal movement.
Got scared on some DWS, especially in Mallorca. No adrenochrome/cutlass glory but did have a good trip to mallorca, including 2ng go ascent of ejector seat and an onsight of vadage. Didnt make it to berry head this year, so total fail on wizard of oz. One day...
Bonus points: purchased van, finished desk job, plans in progress for euro roadtrip, started seeing a lovely lady ( :wub: ), moved to sheffield with aforementioned lovely lady.
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1. Climb Bat Route and/or Indian Summer.
Tick. Really pleased to finished these two routes off!
2. Boulder >= 7C+
Didn't happen in the end. Had 6 sessions on a 5 move 8A near Barcelona, close but no cigar. Also got close to a 7C+ in Targassonne. One for next year.
3. Climb a trad route on the trad route bucket list.
I did The Whipping Post at Reecastle and The Last Temptation at Thorn Crag which were routes I'd always wanted to do but probably not quite bucket list. I tried to do Point Blank ground up but conditions were shit and I ended up have a torrid time and took some big whippers.
4. DWS something good.
I did do some good easy DWS but by good I also meant something relatively hard as well such as Adrenochrome.
5. Climb something big in Europe (Dolomites/Naranja de Bulnes).
My mate Stevo and I tried to free El Pilar De Cantabrico on the west face of Naranjo de Bulnes over two days with a night on a portaledge. We freed a lot of it but we were slow on the second day and went off route on the easier top pitches so we ended up making an abseil retreat in the dark without summiting which was disappointing but overall it was an amazing experience.
6. Climb a classic Euro sport route (hopefully Tom et je ris).
I didn't try Tom et Je Ris in the end. I had one session on Mind Control which was amazing but I never went back. I did some nice routes like La Femme Blanche at Ceuse and Zona Zero at Siurana but didn't manage anything that hard in Europe this year.
7. Go self employed.
I am currently self unemployed but setting up a ltd company in the next few weeks and will try and get some work as a consultant through that.
8. Move to Spain.
I moved to Spain in September but back in the UK now to set up my company and try and get some work. It was great living in Barcelona but its not cheap so I need to get some income now.
All in all a pretty good year climbing-wise, probably my best ever. Despite moving to Spain at the end of the year I started to run out of momentum and my motivation to try hard or train started to wane. This has reached a low point over the festive period and I haven't really done much at all but it is probably for the best and it is good to take a rest. Now I need to think of some goals for 2017 and start training again! A bit tricky at the moment as I don't know where I am going to living/working.
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1. Achieve some sort of back fix
2. Resume climbing
3. Enter 3 Lake District fell race classics
4. Bottle a cask for the Islay Festival
Looking forward to meeting/catching up with plenty of you at Fatneck's do by the sound of things. Best of luck with your 2016 goals beastios!
1. You know what, it ain't half bad compared to what it was. An MRI and private consultation with a spine specialist aided in my knowledge of the problem. I'll take that tick.
2. I only climbed once this year and I think I climbed a few boulder problems at Ysgo (was it your birthday Si?). Really fun but seem to have lost climbing psyche at the moment.
3. Only classic was the Langdale Horseshoe which was an amazing (if very crampy) day out. Last time I fail to run for several months before doing such a race!
4. Time didn't permit but have a new cask waiting in the wings ready for 2017. Also have a project I've had to be silent on throughout the year. Not for much longer though and have co-organised www.spiritsfestival.co.uk as part of a new company set up. Stay tuned for tickets!
In summary, a good year and got really in to road cycling.
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5. Climb something big in Europe (Dolomites/Naranja de Bulnes).
My mate Stevo and I tried to free El Pilar De Cantabrico on the west face of Naranjo de Bulnes over two days with a night on a portaledge. We freed a lot of it but we were slow on the second day and went off route on the easier top pitches so we ended up making an abseil retreat in the dark without summiting which was disappointing but overall it was an amazing experience.
This looks great from a safe distance. One for the blog?
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Run Edale Skyline race - March Ticked and barely run since.
Ski Haute Route - April Ticked. Weather closed in for final day preventing run into Zermat but still a big sucess in my book.
Redpoint 8b by end of year ideally Bricktop and Butterflies. A quick 8a but realised I was well off the mark for 8b. Motivation was much more for trad....
Any onsighting and trad will be a bonus. Tick. Spent summer trad climbing and onsighting sport in Cheedale. Keen for more trad next year. Good year!
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1. Fix/ rehab shoulder. Shoulder impingement which has put bouldering on hold for the foreseeable future. Came out of nowhere and can't climb without pain :'(
2. Pass my LPC
3. Go winter climbing
4. Take more photographs and try and get some wildlife shots
5. Easy climbing somewhere abroad like the Dolomites (never been) or the Alps again.
6. Keep blogging
Will change/ update if shoulder makes a miraculous recovery over the next few months
Can't complain too much about the shoulder as almost climbed my first 8A the other day. I do have some chronic pain sadly and it's definitely not the same / can't climb more than two days on properly and now and again just hurts. But I have managed to get some decent strength back and for now it's not exactly holding me back. Missing the raw board powa but who needs that anyway.
Smashed the LPC. 4 months in to new job and all is well.
Had some amazing days in the lakes and scotland with great company. I love winter climbing. It terrifies me also so I don't care about performance but just staying alive which makes every day a great day.
Not really taken any decent photo's and no wildlife shots.
No climbing abroad this year. Didn't fancy taking a risk with the shoulder being dodgy and potentially ruining the trip.
Still need to blog more but struggle to find the time at the minute. I still love writing but just too tired when I get home from work. Need to find a way to improve on this. Write during lunch breaks?
It's been a long, stressful and pretty good year. The shoulder pushed me back into trad and winter climbing which I realised I had missed. I also took the opportunity for less intensive sport climbing which I really enjoyed and plan to hit hard next year.
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OK here goes:
1. Usual goal of staying injury free and climbing lots while not neglecting family life too much.
You'll have to ask my wife if I managed not to neglect the family too much, but I'm going to put this in green.
2. Climb lots of E4s and E5s. Five E5s onsight would be good (I've never managed more than a couple per year previously). If things are going well maybe try and onsight E6?
I almost put this in green. My most E5s of any year to date - 4 o/s, 2 with some practice or pre-inspection, and 3 dogged. Also did a bunch of E4s and flashed one E6 (with lots of beta). Tried another E6 onsight but failed miserably.
3. La Creme (7c+) at Ansteys. Got really close this year then it got too warm.
Really pleased with this.
4. Visit a new area. Swanage and/or Pembroke hopefully. Loads of stuff I'd like to do at both.
Total fail on this - didn't manage any weekends away, but did have lots of good days out locally (which maybe helped achieved balance with family life - see 1 above!).
A good year overall.
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1. Isles of Wonder
2. Pool of Bethesda
3. Get a new extension & bathroom
4. Sort out the main bedroom
5. Grow some decent crops (weather permitting!)
1. Went up to it once a few weeks ago massively out of shape for climbing and after a break. Unsurprisingly it was an abysmal attempt.
2. Didn't even pull on
3. Fail as we discovered the lack of foundations meant a full rebuild needed on the current extensions before the bathroom can be updated.. Need to save up the extra pennies
4. Great success. Fully re plastered all bedrooms, hallways, stairs and new paint job, carpets, radiators, curtains throughout + new super king bed and mattress. A lot warmer and more pleasant to live in :)
5. Sacked it off and put new manure in to turn over for next year.
Basically achieved fuck all apart from finishing off some decent 7C+' at the start of the year. Pottered through the middle of the year, then lost interest in climbing. Rediscovered the iron and golf though :)
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Right then!
Trad
Get more solid at E5.
Did a reasonable number last year but a lot were soft and I had to try pretty hard on all of them! Once again just need to keep getting on them when I'm psyched and remember it's the onsight as a process not a prize that's important.
Have loads of amazing looking routes I'm keen for all over at this grade so that's good!
Another 6 climbed clean (mostly onsight but g-upped John Wayne) including at least one toughie (Mean Steak @Stennis head)
Failed on a few others also including taking some big whippers whilst going for it. Busting my elbow and not climbing for the whole of March set me back fitness wise as this is usually an important month for getting fit for me.
Did way more E4s than I ever have - around 15.
Finish off Almscliff big 3! Maybe mince up a grit E4 whilst tied on? - haven't even tied on on grit this year I don't think
Depending on how the E5s go this year I guess if it feels right I'd like to try and climb an E6 onsight or groundup (obvs) however if this is red at the end of the year that will be totally fine as E6 is a grade for the big boys and I'm only small...
Busting my elbow at the end of Feb put me out for a month and cost me an important part of my fitness training. Was a bit of a optimistic goal tbh
Sport
Consolidate 7b onsights - have now onsighted 4 so it would be good to get more under the belt! Flashed my hardest one to date which gets 7b+ in some places but again elbow put me back from where I should have been.
Flash 7b+ - should be in with a shot of this during my spring sport trip as I'll have actually been training fitness and tied on in the lead up.Went for the onsight of one and fell on the crux. RP next go. Flashed a tough 7b that gets 7b+ in places but it's not
Consolidate at 7c and do some 7c+s herbie at malham should go down early next year I think.Did another 7c and finally managed Herbie after taking a number of sessions to get back to previous highpoint - didn't do loads of sport climbing this year
Red point 8a - fuck it may as well be bold and stick me neck out! (Plus as GuyVG has slapped his way up one I better try and catch him!) Guess something on malhams upper tier or the cornice (unleashing) or aberration at 2 tier ( had a session on this last year and it doesn't feel too bad). Tried a couple but way too bouldery and didn't put any time into them
Achieving/striving for these goals will give me a good physical buffer for my trad goals which are the important ones.
Bouldering
The last few months of last year were a total shit show but I'd love to do things like West Side, Spare Rib, My apple, finish off narcissus, etc. So I guess quantifiably that means climb 7B.
Climbed Andle Stone Wall, McNab (soft!), and Dancing Queen (now gets 7B - soft?). Giving myself a green for this as bouldering is a relatively weak area for me and I feel like I had been stagnating at 7A for years whereas this winter I have actually managed some harder things. Also last session on West Side I held the third sidepull multiple times!!
Keep enjoying it!
Cba with life ones...
Not much green but actually a great year - climbed some great and tricky E5s, loads of amazing E4s and of varying styles too. Defo a bit more consolidation done - can't expect to be an E5 hero over night.
Climbing herbie as my first 7c+ was great.
Have done some great Boulder problems this year!
Plus had my first taste of Alpine climbing - psyched for more!!
Think my year would have looked very differently had I not fallen badly from the top of Th Great Flake at Caley and bashed my arm on my leg as I landed. Ended up really badly bruising it and not being able to climb for a month and having to have a load of physio to get it moving at full range again!
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1. 8A - tick!
2. 8A - tick!
3. 8A
Preferably at least one not at Almscliff. Or at the very least, not on DWR.
Half way update. Made an excellent start to the year by ticking Dialectics, Exorcist Long, and Exorcist Short (YYFY). All 8A, all on DWR... I'm obviously only taking two ticks.
That leaves me with 5 months to get myself ready to crush Zoo York come winter. Allez. :strongbench:
I've only tried 3 other 8A's this year (The Fonze, Keelhaul and Zoo York) and have sorted beta, done all the moves and made good links on all of them. Haven't been on Keelhaul since the lamp ban, as I was only trying it for convenience. 2 sessions on the Fonze during summer and it felt like a Goa, keen to return. 4 sessions on Zoo York, in okay conditions, and almost linked the crux from the start. Hopefully, once I shake off the christmas podge, I'll be able to put one of them to bed and I will have achieved my ultimate long term goal of 3 8A's and I'll be able to move on and find another sport.
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lost interest in climbing. Rediscovered the iron and golf though :)
http://youtu.be/7doCJbg_XBA
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Make a film that's as well received as Stonnis.
Well, I spent pretty much the whole year on this in one way or another and haven't finished it yet, but I have shot all the climbing and I know how most of it will turn out, even if I do still have a massive amount of work to go.
To be honest, it became obvious that the goal of finishing it in a year was overoptimistic as early as April. I probably shouldn't have taken on such an ambitious task on my own, while working my full-time job and with very little funding but I survived and I'm pretty confident that the film will be finished by the end of April 2017. Whether it will be well received is another matter!
I was hoping to have a little trailer thing ready to post on this thread but it's not ready yet. Hopefully the next few weeks.
That's the big one. :look: Hopefully it won't get in the way of the following goals:
It totally did get in the way of the following goals.
7b/ 7b+ sport.
I had a kind of cosy idea that I'd shoot at the weekends then get sport climbing done on weeknights. In reality uploading footage, charging batteries, sorting out camping and filming kit, finding willing people to film and getting over the weekend's exhaustion meant that I barely climbed all summer. I only went sport climbing once all year.
Back to the 7s in bouldering.
This was meant to happen this autumn/ winter I think. I got really weak, stiff and out-of-practice and haven't bouldered harder than 6B in 2016.
Try harder (i.e. above E1) trad routes
I led two E1s and failed on another and I failed to second the few E2s I tried. Despite spending all summer at the seaside, the only trad climbing I did was on grit.
Stop eating so much fucking chocolate.
Not easy to quantify this as I didn't record how much I ate last year. This year I ate sugary stuff on just over two thirds of the days though, which I think is an improvement, although I'm almost as heavy now (disclaimer- not really very heavy) as I was post-Christmas last year.
Chucking this one from 2012 in to get some green in here-
Move to Sheffield
YYFY :dance1:
Despite failing on all my goals I've had a great and mental year. Good effort to everyone who did well. Each year this thread gets more entertaining the more UKB members I get to know in real life. Hopefully I'll meet more of y'all in 2017. Happy New Year everyone! :great:
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Really looking forward to seeing the film Mike!
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I think my aims are a bit unrealistic, so I'm including two tiers on the sport climbing:
RP 7c - pretty unlikely so...
RP 7b+ - I'd be really happy with this
A good amount of 7A's (5-15?) 7A+ would be an overachievement I think :)
Be strict with my antags & control my chronic issues
If my emphasis shifts back to trad climbing - onsight/flash E4s
Very frustrating year, however looking back I still improved.
Blew my finger working on my first 7c in may,
Jan now and it's still not right
However onsighted a number of E4s, 2 7bs and lots of 7as
Also nearly did a 7B+
I'd probably prefer 7b onsight over 7c RPs so that is good :)
However all these came before May!
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1. DWS Project.
Fucking done! End of March.
2. Get fitter and leaner.
Fitter yes, leaner no. Managed to get reasonably injured this year (1st was 2 days after doing dws proj, 2nd was in June)
3. Rocket Man.
Didn't try it much due to fingers...
4. V9s.
Close on a couple but again, fingers....
Seems like a shit year from that but besides the fingers, I still had a good year. Only 1 short Gramps trip (will be more this year) and a great trip to Castle Hill (aiming to go back in September).
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My expectations have been revised downwards following the poor finish to last year.
Try and do a few 8A graded probs in UK
Try and do one 8A+ uk (poss working class ss)
Aim for 8A+ in font
That is all
Wow
Proper fail.
2 8th grade problems in the uk and that's all.
Had a good year in general ways though, got head-hunted, moved to suburbia, built a board, hair didn't recede much further.
No excuses, must do better climbing this year!!
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Big
Write a thesis.Well I've written about half a thesis...
Large fast and light tradventures.Sort of did some multipitch tradventuring in Wales after several sets of more adventurous summer plans didn't work out
Don't get eaten by a polar bear.Enormous success
Stay in touch with other human beings.Been a really good year for this
Medium
Tabou ZiziToo hard.
Finish off arbitrary '8a in every style/rock type challenge'. Still to go: crack, trad, granite. Nearly did an 8a crack in minging greasy conditions but never finished it off. If designer danger slate routes with occasional skyhooks but mainly bolts count as 'trad', then yes! Didn't climb on granite :(
Put lots of pockets on a board. Put them on, but didn't use them as much as I'd have liked and the board is no more
Try some 8b/cs, ideally on pockets.I even did one, despite it not being on pockets
Prioritise doing awesome first ascents over mileage.Tick, did my projects at Cheddar and Long Quarry Point, and a multipitch linkup on the slate with a bit of new climbing on it.
Lots of DWS in Pembroke. none
Do more surfing, fell running, winter climbing, ski touring, and music.Only really did music but I'm putting this in green because I've done a LOT of music and I'm utterly loving it
Little
Cultivate my bonsai mountainsI lost the box I was going to keep them in :(
Stop driving to climbing walls.Started off well but slacked a bit whenever I got really busy or the weather got particularly grim.
Font 8A.Fuck it, I'm counting it even if it was basically a route and I did every move off a kneebar
Go bouldering in Devon & Cornwall. nope
Ecstasy and the No Footholds Traverse at Iffley.Tragically I've not even been to Iffley