Will Bosi has flashed a problem called Charizard, a Martin Stranik number that gets 8B+!
Second Brit to flash the grade after Ned I think?
https://youtu.be/2sQKM7CfcKE
Mega! Surely a Bosiwad thread is deserved at this point?
Daniel Woods | Entlinge |
Adam Ondra | Gecko Assis |
Jimmy Webb | Sky |
Adam Ondra | Jade |
Jimmy Webb | The Globalist |
Liam Vance | Sky |
Ned Feehally | Trust Issues |
Jakob Schubert | Catalan Witness the FItness |
Tomoa Narasaki | Decided |
Jakob Schubert | The Never Ending Story |
Will Bosi | Charizard |
That's mad, Will has flashed 2 8B's and one 8B+ in the last two months now!!
That's mad, Will has flashed 2 8B's and one 8B+ in the last two months now!!
Will Bosi has flashed a problem called Charizard, a Martin Stranik number that gets 8B+!
Second Brit to flash the grade after Ned I think?
https://youtu.be/2sQKM7CfcKE
I was expecting it to boost straight up the massive spans between the crimps on the blank wall above the start.
I was expecting it to boost straight up the massive spans between the crimps on the blank wall above the start.
I was expecting it to boost straight up the massive spans between the crimps on the blank wall above the start.
I think that's an 8A+ he flashed on the same day (along with another 8A+) before, again on the same day, linking it into a reverse of the 8B+ to give a new 8C.
Will Bosi has flashed a problem called Charizard, a Martin Stranik number that gets 8B+!
Second Brit to flash the grade after Ned I think?
https://youtu.be/2sQKM7CfcKE
I know aesthetics aren’t his bag but that looks fucking awful.
Maybe it ‘climbs well’. No doubt it’s hard.
The straight up looks amazing at least.
Not wrong. The straight up looks amazing at least.
Will Bosi has flashed a problem called Charizard, a Martin Stranik number that gets 8B+!
Second Brit to flash the grade after Ned I think?
https://youtu.be/2sQKM7CfcKE
I know aesthetics aren’t his bag but that looks fucking awful.
Maybe it ‘climbs well’. No doubt it’s hard.
Not wrong. The straight up looks amazing at least.
Can't link to his IG at work, but looks like he's done FA of a more direct up version - Bulbasaur 8C. Says vid on YouTube but can't see it
now that he's got his own thread- I remember seeing him back in 2014 (barely hit puberty) floating up problems at alien 2 that I'd seen multiple ~8B climbers serisouly fail to do individual moves on...
now that he's got his own thread- I remember seeing him back in 2014 (barely hit puberty) floating up problems at alien 2 that I'd seen multiple ~8B climbers serisouly fail to do individual moves on...
https://youtu.be/XTbtj2MB6Hc
Another 8C, looking as controlled as ever on it.
Must be so freeing to be this psyched on rock regardless of aesthetics. Not to take anything away from his accomplishments, I'm in awe, but not many of us would be willing to head abroad for stuff that looks like it's been plucked from the tor and dropped in rural Czechia. Maybe it even adds to the achievement!
I think it's pretty cool to another wolrd class climber on some of Adam Ondra's minging limestone testpieces. It's definitely not the most aesthetic crag but some of the problems seem to have interesting sequences.
Comes across as a very Jerry thing, except not as dickish. He's not going there for the world class climbing, but instead to measure himself against the world's best climber.
It would be cool if one day someone like Daniel Woods or Dave Graham comes to the UK to try Aidan Robert's fingery testpieces.
I didn't realise they were besties in that sense Cheque. But even if so, I'm not sure I buy that Czech sightseeing and general banter is what's going on here. If I had a mate who said "Come stay with me and we can climb at the Tor" I'd probably say "Fuck off, I've only 25 days of leave a year, and I'm not wasting my skin on that nonsense. See you in Font". In fact I'm sure I've been in a not dissimilar situation and said something like that. Maybe I'm just a dick.
I didn't realise they were besties in that sense Cheque. But even if so, I'm not sure I buy that Czech sightseeing and general banter is what's going on here. If I had a mate who said "Come stay with me and we can climb at the Tor" I'd probably say "Fuck off, I've only 25 days of leave a year, and I'm not wasting my skin on that nonsense. See you in Font". In fact I'm sure I've been in a not dissimilar situation and said something like that. Maybe I'm just a dick.
Comes across as a very Jerry thing, except not as dickish. He's not going there for the world class climbing, but instead to measure himself against the world's best climber.
This
Also people do get different things from climbing. BID and I were talking about this today; I enjoy doing moves that I find hard and pushing myself, and to me that's the heart of climbing. Aesthetics are welcome and important, but hard, demanding moves on choosy limestone shitheaps are hard, demanding moves nonetheless and appealing to me for that.
Perhaps that's a flaw but there you go
Comes across as a very Jerry thing, except not as dickish. He's not going there for the world class climbing, but instead to measure himself against the world's best climber.
This
This. Climbing every day with Ondra for a few weeks is worth the climbing itself being on the chossiest shit heap of a crag imaginable.
His full ticklist is on Instagram. Pretty impressive, to the point of ridiculous.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CcxikY0D_fQ/
6 8Cs... bloody hell!
Ticklist for my time in Brno ✅
.
Kostej Nesmrtelný 9a
Perla Východu 9a
.
Drift 8C
Pata Ledovce 8C
Bulbasaur 8C FA
Ghost Rider 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C
Iceberg 8C
Charizard 8B+ Flash
Sila je Kouzlo 8B+
Svini Mor 8B Flash
Leda Kost 8B
H1N1 8B
Kouzelný sauce 8B
Patička Ledovce 8A+
Fénixovy Slzy 8A+ Flash
The Swirl King Sit 8A+ FA Flash
Blatant 8A+
Kapka z poháru nesmrtelnosti 8A+ 1st go
Švédský závodník Hotofson Sit 8A
Smrad Dálek Sit 8A
2nd place Czech climbing cup
For anyone unable to see the insta post:QuoteTicklist for my time in Brno ✅
.
Kostej Nesmrtelný 9a
Perla Východu 9a
.
Drift 8C
Pata Ledovce 8C
Bulbasaur 8C FA
Ghost Rider 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C
Iceberg 8C
Charizard 8B+ Flash
Sila je Kouzlo 8B+
Svini Mor 8B Flash
Leda Kost 8B
H1N1 8B
Kouzelný sauce 8B
Patička Ledovce 8A+
Fénixovy Slzy 8A+ Flash
The Swirl King Sit 8A+ FA Flash
Blatant 8A+
Kapka z poháru nesmrtelnosti 8A+ 1st go
Švédský závodník Hotofson Sit 8A
Smrad Dálek Sit 8A
2nd place Czech climbing cup
Any idea what 1st go means as opposed to flash? Does it share moves with others that he climbed maybe?
For anyone unable to see the insta post:QuoteTicklist for my time in Brno ✅
.
Kostej Nesmrtelný 9a
Perla Východu 9a
.
Drift 8C
Pata Ledovce 8C
Bulbasaur 8C FA
Ghost Rider 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C
Iceberg 8C
Charizard 8B+ Flash
Sila je Kouzlo 8B+
Svini Mor 8B Flash
Leda Kost 8B
H1N1 8B
Kouzelný sauce 8B
Patička Ledovce 8A+
Fénixovy Slzy 8A+ Flash
The Swirl King Sit 8A+ FA Flash
Blatant 8A+
Kapka z poháru nesmrtelnosti 8A+ 1st go
Švédský závodník Hotofson Sit 8A
Smrad Dálek Sit 8A
2nd place Czech climbing cup
Any idea what 1st go means as opposed to flash? Does it share moves with others that he climbed maybe?
Absolutely unreal. He says in a comment it shares the start hold with another problem so he doesn’t consider it a flash. That’s very strict in my book. But I guess it is a clear line in sand. Any shared moves/holds = no flash.
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else
edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else+1, even if I just pulled my ass of the floor and then dropped off I'd have blow the flash on anything sharing holds imo
edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else
edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that
If it's literally just the start hold that is shared then you're not really practising the moves on one problem by trying the other. I'd probably take the flash on both, what with my loose morals.
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!
That how it begins, next you'll be crouching a sit start, off 4 pads, 3 moves in, 2 meters to the right of the actually climb, dabbing your way to finish with a one hand "match" drop off, on a recently excavated jug, below the top out, and claiming your first 7A.
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!
Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!
Surely it's the moves that are important; the moves of the two problems are totally different right from pulling on, so there's no way in my mind that doing one would invalidate the flash on the other. Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.
Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.
Not quite. Pulling onto a start hold and taking both feet off the floor, then stepping off again, would invalidate a flash n’est-ce pas?
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!
Surely it's the moves that are important; the moves of the two problems are totally different right from pulling on, so there's no way in my mind that doing one would invalidate the flash on the other. Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.
Soon you'll be saying that taking a hold with your left hand on one problem means you can use it with your right hand to flash an adjacent problem. Then before you know it, you'll be crouching a sit start, off 4 pads, 3 moves in, 2 meters to the right ... and claiming your first 7A.
But more seriously, consider a problem where the start holds, and feet, are terrible and they require a good bit of effort to hold and move from, having held and cranked off those holds previously for one problem would be a huge advantage mentally, and physically, when "flashing" another problem.
Also what actually counts as a move? If you have to do a few foot moves to place a cruxy high heel before you even move your hands, can you do that on both problems as long as you go in a different direction to different holds afterwards?
"Any grey area in climbing will always get abused" (36chambers' Law), so why not make the definition as clean cut as possible?
Poor old Bosi, finally gets his own thread and what's in it? 2 pages about the aesthetics of bouldering and what constitutes a flash lmao.
If they share the same start, you need to use a different book for each problem. I recommend carrying the Harry Potter series around, as they get thicker as the series progresses, should cover the full range.
Poor old Bosi, finally gets his own thread and what's in it? 2 pages about the aesthetics of bouldering and what constitutes a flash lmao.
What counts as the same hold? Is either end of the same pocket/ledge/break okay, so long as no bit of your hand touches a bit already used? So you could mono either side of a two finger pocket on the two problems to maintain the flash?
Also what actually counts as a move?
I think Bosi is smoking crack.
what he's done (which I'll repeat again, is fucking incredible)?
I interviewed Will. Apologies in advance
https://youtu.be/8P_Odm5nRUM
It would be far less surprising, though still v impressive, to do this sort of thing in Rocklands, Swizzy etc
It would be far less surprising, though still v impressive, to do this sort of thing in Rocklands, Swizzy etc
I think if he’d gone to Switzerland and done a similar amount of high 8’s, people wouldn’t be discussing what did or didn’t constitute a flash, because the aesthetic quality of the problems is so much higher there, and as a punter I would find that way more inspiring.
I guess it would be like the difference between someone going and doing all the hard problems at Impossible Roof, or going and doing all Dan V’s hard problems in the County.
You can’t go out and test yourself against Ondra AND climb the ultimate kinglines of the world on the same trip.
Would be great to see Will try himself against Ondra's Flatanger routes. That would be another level of impressive and demonstrate proper breadth of ability across styles.
Is Will still in the Lattice stable or does he have new coaching set up?
https://youtu.be/r2Xaz-vfrtw
Second ascent of Outliers 8C.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI21D12VHwM
best clip of belay ever
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI21D12VHwMThat was good fun. The crag looks a lot less like a Czech Raven Tor in that video. Cool climbing and a brilliant chain clip.
best clip of belay ever
So many moves without actually moving anywhere.Great isn't it. I always like stuff where climbers have to move limbs back or down or anywhere but up, to get into the finally correct position to progress up.
Described them as a similar size to Burden of dreams, only steeper and with worse footholdsSounds like he's describing a 9A+
My dream Shadowplay scenario where someone does it and then Gaskins releases a timestamped vid proving he put it up, then benevolently forgives a sobbing, prostrate Dan Varian for his lack of faith, comes one step closer to fruition...
Barely a flicker of acknowledgement! An impressive achievement?
Barely a flicker of acknowledgement! An impressive achievement?
What makes Bosi so good?! I wondered whether he's just a bit of a crimp waif taken to the nth degree (he looks pretty skinny in those pics on Vecchio), but then he's done plenty of burly things too.
Barely a flicker of acknowledgement! An impressive achievement?
What is there to say? Exceptional climber, known to be exceptional via recent achievements, delivers exceptional performance.
I do think there's an interesting lack of discussion around Bosi's style, and what makes him so good, in comparison to Aidan where there's lots of chat about pinky bent fingerboarding and how impressively static / controlled he is, how he gets weight on his feet, etc.
What makes Bosi so good?! I wondered whether he's just a bit of a crimp waif taken to the nth degree (he looks pretty skinny in those pics on Vecchio), but then he's done plenty of burly things too.
Lastly this is a bit like an 8A climber flashing a 7B. Good, but not spectacular...
Barely a flicker of acknowledgement! An impressive achievement?
What is there to say? Exceptional climber, known to be exceptional via recent achievements, delivers exceptional performance.
I do think there's an interesting lack of discussion around Bosi's style, and what makes him so good, in comparison to Aidan where there's lots of chat about pinky bent fingerboarding and how impressively static / controlled he is, how he gets weight on his feet, etc.
What makes Bosi so good?! I wondered whether he's just a bit of a crimp waif taken to the nth degree (he looks pretty skinny in those pics on Vecchio), but then he's done plenty of burly things too.
Lastly this is a bit like an 8A climber flashing a 7B. Good, but not spectacular...
He definitely seems to be very much in the "don't weigh much" camp which I guess is very effective for sport climbing as well (not that I know but most top sport climbers seem to be very light) He seems to have mega strong fingers on tiny holds but didn't he say he wasn't a fan of monos?
Shawn Raboutou has a similar-ish background to Will and Aidan and I'd put money on him taking the Mellow crown from Daniel/Jimmy/Nalle over the next few years if he hasn't already.
He definitely seems to be very much in the "don't weigh much" camp which I guess is very effective for sport climbing as well (not that I know but most top sport climbers seem to be very light) He seems to have mega strong fingers on tiny holds but didn't he say he wasn't a fan of monos?
I think Will is 60-something kg? For someone his height imo that doesn't put you in waif territory.
He definitely seems to be very much in the "don't weigh much" camp which I guess is very effective for sport climbing as well (not that I know but most top sport climbers seem to be very light) He seems to have mega strong fingers on tiny holds but didn't he say he wasn't a fan of monos?
I think Will is 60-something kg? For someone his height imo that doesn't put you in waif territory.
I honestly thought that he was sub 60, like Steve Mc, but fair enough. I guess he's a bit taller than Steve? I've seen Will in the works and he looked very light but looks can be deceiving.
Barely a flicker of acknowledgement! An impressive achievement?
What is there to say? Exceptional climber, known to be exceptional via recent achievements, delivers exceptional performance.
I do think there's an interesting lack of discussion around Bosi's style, and what makes him so good, in comparison to Aidan where there's lots of chat about pinky bent fingerboarding and how impressively static / controlled he is, how he gets weight on his feet, etc.
What makes Bosi so good?! I wondered whether he's just a bit of a crimp waif taken to the nth degree (he looks pretty skinny in those pics on Vecchio), but then he's done plenty of burly things too.
Lastly this is a bit like an 8A climber flashing a 7B. Good, but not spectacular...
I've also been thinking about the differences between the two of them and I'm beginning to think that Aidan's bent pinky thing is probably a distraction for most people. He claims his pinky is the same length as his index finger, so I reckon it's his unique morphology that demands a focus on pinky strength/angle. In contrast, I've heard Will claim to be front 3 dominant and that he will happily drop a pinky. The point being that the specific style is probably unimportant, as long as it works for your own strengths/morphology.
What I think is likely more responsible for their success, and a common trait, is that Aidan and Will are both recent comp beasts turned full time rock climbers, still at an age where gains are optimal. They've both been through years and years of intense, structured training and continue to do so. Daniel Woods was one of the best of his generation (and still is!) for similar reasons, but training has moved on and is likely better structured and more advanced today than it was 10 years ago. At 33, Daniel Woods is no longer at an age where physical gains will be optimal (:worms:). Shawn Raboutou has a similar-ish background to Will and Aidan and I'd put money on him taking the Mellow crown from Daniel/Jimmy/Nalle over the next few years if he hasn't already.
TL/DR - be young and train hard with up-to-date training principles.
Aidan's seemingly microscopic attention to detail with regards to movement and reasons for failure are probably going to be more useful than pinky angle for anyone into projecting. I've been trying to apply this to my own goals. E.g. Simply stating "need more compression strength" isn't good enough. How wide is the compression, what is the angle between the holds and how long do I need to hold it for? Do I also need to move my feet while holding that compression?
https://www.instagram.com/p/CkvvuH6D4hR/
Looks like a new 8C.
The other one looks even better!https://www.instagram.com/p/CkvvuH6D4hR/
Looks like a new 8C.
Video of first ascent, looks good.
https://youtu.be/F80F0qHT12Q
https://youtu.be/8uBS9OYa2P8Very nice, clear eloquent and informative :yes:
Alphane interview
https://www.instagram.com/p/CkvvuH6D4hR/
Looks like a new 8C.
Video of first ascent, looks good.
https://youtu.be/F80F0qHT12Q
https://youtu.be/8uBS9OYa2P8
Alphane interview
So, is he implying that Terranova could actually have been the world's first 9A boulder?
And burden the first 9A+?
Shawn Raboutou has a similar-ish background to Will and Aidan and I'd put money on him taking the Mellow crown from Daniel/Jimmy/Nalle over the next few years if he hasn't already.
I'd say he probably has already. It seems pretty likely he's done Megatron, so he's got 2x 9A to his name plus a string of other super hard things to his name.
And burden the first 9A+?Not sure I extrapolated that, more than Burden was harder to repeat location / conditions-wise, but otherwise merely 9A.??
5. Alphane and Honey Badger aren't as conditions dependent as the harder stuff at the tor. He mentions in the vid that things should be graded for climbing them in good conditions, but that does throw a spanner in the sessions=>grade calculator when the cons are hard to get right.
5. Alphane and Honey Badger aren't as conditions dependent as the harder stuff at the tor. He mentions in the vid that things should be graded for climbing them in good conditions, but that does throw a spanner in the sessions=>grade calculator when the cons are hard to get right.
The eternal question if whether things should be (and, slightly separately, whether they typically are) graded for how hard they are, or how hard they are to do...
Nalle was on form for doing 8C+ in a handful of sessions. He spent literally dozens of sessions trying individual moves on Burden. There seems to be an excluded middle there.
Nalle was on form for doing 8C+ in a handful of sessions. He spent literally dozens of sessions trying individual moves on Burden. There seems to be an excluded middle there.
I'm not sure about the first part, which 8C+s do you mean?
Sleepwalker was a multi-season effort (albeit with FA woes and using harder beta). Unless I'm mistaken, I'm not sure he's done another confirmed 8C+, since the jury's still out for things like Livin Large and Gioia.
The Finnish Line got upgraded to 8C+ and he did it in a few sessions I think? Bugeleisen Sit although I think that took him a while.
We need Simon Lorenzi to pull his finger out and get it done and give it 8C+ so we can move on. Be interesting to see if the yanks disregard it if he does in the same way they ignore Soudain Seul in these discussions
Maybe the top end grades discussion should split off?
BoD might get a repeat or 2 over the next year (I'd bet Timonov followed by Roberts) so we may get some commentary on where it stands in comparison to other hard problems.
ROTS could also see a repeat as the underrated beast Matt Fultz has put time into it. I'd be very surprised to see that one do down in grade based on how hard the stand is!
BoD might get a repeat or 2 over the next year (I'd bet Timonov followed by Roberts) so we may get some commentary on where it stands in comparison to other hard problems.
ROTS could also see a repeat as the underrated beast Matt Fultz has put time into it. I'd be very surprised to see that one do down in grade based on how hard the stand is!
[idk about timonov?
The Finnish Line got upgraded to 8C+ and he did it in a few sessions I think? Bugeleisen Sit although I think that took him a while.
No, Nalle said 8C+ but subsequent repeaters have downgraded it to 8C, whilst Livin' Large is the other way round; Nalle said 8C, others 8C+.
Bugeleisen Sit is 8C isn't it?
The Finnish Line got upgraded to 8C+ and he did it in a few sessions I think? Bugeleisen Sit although I think that took him a while.
No, Nalle said 8C+ but subsequent repeaters have downgraded it to 8C, whilst Livin' Large is the other way round; Nalle said 8C, others 8C+.
Bugeleisen Sit is 8C isn't it?
Oh I didn't know it had been downgraded tbh. I only saw that it was 8C+. That's fair then.
The Finnish Line got upgraded to 8C+ and he did it in a few sessions I think? Bugeleisen Sit although I think that took him a while.
No, Nalle said 8C+ but subsequent repeaters have downgraded it to 8C, whilst Livin' Large is the other way round; Nalle said 8C, others 8C+.
Bugeleisen Sit is 8C isn't it?
Oh I didn't know it had been downgraded tbh. I only saw that it was 8C+. That's fair then.
I don't think Nalle ever actually suggested 8C+ for Finnish line, I think he just said something like "for me it's the hardest boulder in rocklands" which people took to mean "it's a grade harder than all the other 8Cs".
I'll be interested to see what grade ROTS settles at. The stand has had a lot of ascents so I could imagine it going down to 8C one day, though not sure that'd bump ROTS down.
(All said from the comfort of my armchair obviously.)
I'm thinking of it as a broader question, not just conditions - e.g. put Hubble at the top of a 20m 7a to a ledge; would be harder to do but not harder... But based on my experience would probably get a higher grade, though it does vary a bit
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
QuoteSo, is he implying that Terranova could actually have been the world's first 9A boulder?
And burden the first 9A+?
I noticed both of those suggestions too!
The sport/boulder grade thing is interesting. Will seems confused that 9A's like Alphane and Honey Badger ( ;)) have only taken him a couple of weeks to do, but routes from 9a+ to 9b+ have taken much longer. There are a few possible explanations:
1. Top end sport is harder than top end bouldering. I find this one hard to buy into since the talent pool for bouldering and sport climbing is similar and the training methods in each discipline are also both similarly advanced. Jakob waltzes up 9b+ routes but got shut down by Sleepwalker 8C+, so it's not all one way traffic of multi-disciplinary climbers having an easier time with top end bouldering.
2. Will is even better at bouldering than he is at sport climbing.
3. More time has passed since he transitioned to full time rock climbing, he is on particularly good form right now and happens to be focusing on bouldering. He mentions that he's going to visit Stefano to try Excalibur, which seems to be a candidate for 9c. If he does well then I think we can just crown Will the king of climbing and forget the other points above :bow:
QuoteSo, is he implying that Terranova could actually have been the world's first 9A boulder?
And burden the first 9A+?
I noticed both of those suggestions too!
The sport/boulder grade thing is interesting. Will seems confused that 9A's like Alphane and Honey Badger ( ;)) have only taken him a couple of weeks to do, but routes from 9a+ to 9b+ have taken much longer. There are a few possible explanations:
1. Top end sport is harder than top end bouldering. I find this one hard to buy into since the talent pool for bouldering and sport climbing is similar and the training methods in each discipline are also both similarly advanced. Jakob waltzes up 9b+ routes but got shut down by Sleepwalker 8C+, so it's not all one way traffic of multi-disciplinary climbers having an easier time with top end bouldering.
2. Will is even better at bouldering than he is at sport climbing.
3. More time has passed since he transitioned to full time rock climbing, he is on particularly good form right now and happens to be focusing on bouldering. He mentions that he's going to visit Stefano to try Excalibur, which seems to be a candidate for 9c. If he does well then I think we can just crown Will the king of climbing and forget the other points above :bow:
I wouldn't call Jakob not quite doing an 8C+ boulder on his 3rd session "getting shut down". That said I would agree that it appears Will is better at bouldering to than sport.
"Gradewise I think it's bottom end 8c+. I definitely think it's harder than forgotten gem 8c, but easier than Alphane and Honey Badger".
To me that sounds like he thinks Alphane is 8c+.....
Amazing!! Could be the quickest ever send of an 8C+??
It would be interesting to know how the hardest boulders compare to the hardest routes. The Grand Illusion is now a consensus 8C+ boulder and Sean Bailey thought it was comparable to a 9a+/b route.
It would be interesting to know how the hardest boulders compare to the hardest routes. The Grand Illusion is now a consensus 8C+ boulder and Sean Bailey thought it was comparable to a 9a+/b route.
He must be wrong, darth grader says hard 9b :coffee:
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I'm not getting the joke here, what's so funny?
It would be interesting to know how the hardest boulders compare to the hardest routes. The Grand Illusion is now a consensus 8C+ boulder and Sean Bailey thought it was comparable to a 9a+/b route.
He must be wrong, darth grader says hard 9b :coffee:
It would be interesting to know how the hardest boulders compare to the hardest routes. The Grand Illusion is now a consensus 8C+ boulder and Sean Bailey thought it was comparable to a 9a+/b route.
He must be wrong, darth grader says hard 9b :coffee:
You forgot the not-on-a-rope grade adjustment, which is required to make things fit (genuinely)
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I'm not getting the joke here, what's so funny?
It would be interesting to know how the hardest boulders compare to the hardest routes. The Grand Illusion is now a consensus 8C+ boulder and Sean Bailey thought it was comparable to a 9a+/b route.
He must be wrong, darth grader says hard 9b :coffee:
You forgot the not-on-a-rope grade adjustment, which is required to make things fit (genuinely)
For sure. I agree on this. (And it is surprising that seemingly only beginners know that there is a difference between what one can do on a toprope versus on lead! It is so much easier to climb when one does not has to stop in the middle of sequences to fiddle with the rope ... I rediscovered this when I went back to my hometown where all the routes in the gym are graded for toprope, and they all felt exactly one letter grade harder than normal.)
From my vague memory the description of the routes in this document
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GR5O_9V3yJFU-nn295y0ImuoTl8lJazX/view (last page)
which was used to fit the model looked pretty harsh; but now when I re-read it I find that I agree on the breakdown on the routes I am familiar with.
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I'm not getting the joke here, what's so funny?
My reading is that if everyone has done this 8C+, far more than any other, then it's probably soft. Like the most repeated routes at any crag. I agree BTW, it was exactly my thought when I read that.
Please feel free to correct if I've misinterpreted.
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I'm not getting the joke here, what's so funny?
My reading is that if everyone has done this 8C+, far more than any other, then it's probably soft. Like the most repeated routes at any crag. I agree BTW, it was exactly my thought when I read that.
Please feel free to correct if I've misinterpreted.
This makes no sense to me. To come back to my point about some problems being easier to do; Sleepwalker is in a desert where it hardly ever rains, is easily workable with a couple of pads, is the type of problem that rewards a persistent approach, and has easy access with a lengthy season of conditions.
If you're a climber in the US capable of climbing 8C+ (and there are a lot of them) then it's the obvious one to go for. So they do. None of that makes it 8C. Unless you think all those extraneous factors should be considered when grading things, which I don't.
Another day at the office with a flash of The Dagger and Dreamtime in the same day (and close on the flash according to his 8a.nu log!!)
If he had succeeded, would that have been the first 8C flash? Jade was flashed by Ondra, and Catalan Witness The Fitness was flashed by Schubert, but these are both considered 8B+ now.
An alterative angle... multiple people saying soft 8B+, or even 8B.
It’s safe to say that British bouldering is in a strong place. The amount of people operating at the top end and very top end is mind boggling.
I think there is a bit of a gap between will and Aidan too. Definitely if you count routes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cMHaAvGS-YPutting the lower / less showy grade in the big caption is worth waddage in itself :strongbench:
It’s safe to say that British bouldering is in a strong place. The amount of people operating at the top end and very top end is mind boggling.
I agree with your overall point, but I think it's worth bearing in mind there's quite a big gap between Will, Aidan (and maybe some of the comp climbing youth when they decide to touch some rock) and the rest of the UK pack. Will and Aidan have done (quite a few!) more problems above 8C than every other British person combined.
https://climbing-history.org/list/3/strong-british-male-boulderers
It’s safe to say that British bouldering is in a strong place. The amount of people operating at the top end and very top end is mind boggling.
I agree with your overall point, but I think it's worth bearing in mind there's quite a big gap between Will, Aidan (and maybe some of the comp climbing youth when they decide to touch some rock) and the rest of the UK pack. Will and Aidan have done (quite a few!) more problems above 8C than every other British person combined.
https://climbing-history.org/list/3/strong-british-male-boulderers
I don't think there's a big gap between Will and Aidan although Will is definitely better at flashing boulders. I think Aidan maybe undersells himself by sandbagging a lot of his hardest ascents, hardly any of his FA's ever seem to get repeated, even the ones abroad where there's a lot more people climbing in the 8B+ to 8C range.
He's gotta be one of the best all rounders at this point surely?
Haha good tongue in cheek point made.
Will is really really good (obvs) and obvs very good at bouldering and sport climbing but is he an all rounder?
Dave Mac is the most obvious top all-rounder for me; 9a sport, 8B+ (is practice of the wild 8C?) Hardest trad head points in the country, probably also o/sed the odd E7, grade XII winter stuff + has done some hard multipitch stuff.
Haha good tongue in cheek point made.
Will is really really good (obvs) and obvs very good at bouldering and sport climbing but is he an all rounder?
Dave Mac is the most obvious top all-rounder for me; 9a sport, 8B+ (is practice of the wild 8C?) Hardest trad head points in the country, probably also o/sed the odd E7, grade XII winter stuff + has done some hard multipitch stuff.
It's clearly Ondra for me. Sport, boulder, comp, crack and trad all at much higher levels than Dave, even if he hasn't climbed XII on the Ben... yet!
Haha good tongue in cheek point made.
Will is really really good (obvs) and obvs very good at bouldering and sport climbing but is he an all rounder?
Dave Mac is the most obvious top all-rounder for me; 9a sport, 8B+ (is practice of the wild 8C?) Hardest trad head points in the country, probably also o/sed the odd E7, grade XII winter stuff + has done some hard multipitch stuff.
It's clearly Ondra for me. Sport, boulder, comp, crack and trad all at much higher levels than Dave, even if he hasn't climbed XII on the Ben... yet!
At the risk of descending into UKC style debate....I guess it depends on how you define hardest trad? Do you more heavily weight difficulty over danger? DMac has clearly done some of the hardest bold/serious trad in the world, whereas Ondra waltzed up the hardest big wall in world (but it's fairly safe). Dave doesn't travel much, but I do wonder how he'd get on on something like the dawn wall. I was actually mega impressed Adam managed it with so little fuss - just goes to show what a few grades in hand does for you!
Haha good tongue in cheek point made.
Will is really really good (obvs) and obvs very good at bouldering and sport climbing but is he an all rounder?
Dave Mac is the most obvious top all-rounder for me; 9a sport, 8B+ (is practice of the wild 8C?) Hardest trad head points in the country, probably also o/sed the odd E7, grade XII winter stuff + has done some hard multipitch stuff.
It's clearly Ondra for me. Sport, boulder, comp, crack and trad all at much higher levels than Dave, even if he hasn't climbed XII on the Ben... yet!
...whereas Ondra waltzed up the hardest big wall in world (but it's fairly safe).
...whereas Ondra waltzed up the hardest big wall in world (but it's fairly safe).
Minor point, but I think the dawn wall is actually pretty spicy in a lot of places. There's pitches of 8b and 8b+ protected by heads and other such aid climbing shit, that sounds pretty E9 to me! Obviously not the top level.
Rock climbing is a lot harder than ice climbing, mixed climbing, adventurous hiking and aid climbing. Usually, the best rock climbers quickly raise to the top of every other form of climbing soon after trying it. (Didn't Midtbø flash the semi-final route in the world cup of ice climbing with running beta the first time he had axes in his hand or something? He would have timed out as he took forever. There was a video). That's why we think the best rock climbers are the best all round climbers.
Also, climbing is a lot harder than putting in bits.
Surely the fact it's had lots (7? 8?) of ascents, with everyone agreeing it's 8C+, is an indication that the grade is correct and has achieved a clear consensus?Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I'm not getting the joke here, what's so funny?
My reading is that if everyone has done this 8C+, far more than any other, then it's probably soft. Like the most repeated routes at any crag. I agree BTW, it was exactly my thought when I read that.
Please feel free to correct if I've misinterpreted.
This makes no sense to me. To come back to my point about some problems being easier to do; Sleepwalker is in a desert where it hardly ever rains, is easily workable with a couple of pads, is the type of problem that rewards a persistent approach, and has easy access with a lengthy season of conditions.
If you're a climber in the US capable of climbing 8C+ (and there are a lot of them) then it's the obvious one to go for. So they do. None of that makes it 8C. Unless you think all those extraneous factors should be considered when grading things, which I don't.
Will Bosi says about Shadow Play ... "pretty sure it will go"
Will Bosi says about Shadow Play ... "pretty sure it will go"
Worth noting that what he actually says is "if you can find the feet to get into it [a shitty three finger undercut], Im pretty sure it'd go".
Its not what he says though is it?
More interesting to me is his recent stories trying the Burden replica. Looking good, but Raboutou looking better still on the real thing in utterly wank conditions. Really fascinating to see various wads invest so much in it.
Height / reach thing maybe? Seems Nalle is 1.74m, Shawn is 1.34M? (random google so could be wrong)
Height / reach thing maybe? Seems Nalle is 1.74m, Shawn is 1.34M? (random google so could be wrong)
Shawn at 4 foot 5? Guess he must just have an ape of +45...
Maybe he just stands closer to the camera when there's other in the shot to make them seem similar sized.
Bosi will do it and on the day he does Shark will receive an email with a vid of Gaskins doing it. He just wanted to be taken at his word. Sometimes a reasonable man must do unreasonable things.
Will Bosi says about Shadow Play ... "pretty sure it will go"
https://youtu.be/Y7AoI8zN6cA
I saw gaskins do this in a couple goes, climbed it as a vague series of lay aways
Was able to use a drop knee to shake out both hands on the 4th move.
Here is Will on Jam Crack. I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast
He stated in the livestream that the replica is a lot harder meaning the hardest boulder in the world is now at lattice HQ.
Here is Will on Jam Crack. I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast
Really enjoyed this one, segment at the end about his diet is class!
He stated in the livestream that the replica is a lot harder meaning the hardest boulder in the world is now at lattice HQ.
Interesting that whilst Burden is getting all this attention, Nalle has been very quiet. Not sure I've heard of anything from him for a few years now. Has he hung up the shoes? Or just fed up with the media circus?
Not sure about that, you'd think would just post content in lower case?
There's a comment on the YouTube video reporting Will had his first session on the real thing and did all the moves in half an hour.
Sounds like it's on
I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so
Interesting that whilst Burden is getting all this attention, Nalle has been very quiet. Not sure I've heard of anything from him for a few years now. Has he hung up the shoes? Or just fed up with the media circus?
He kinda went on an anti capitalism thing, so maybe that’s why he’s off the socials?
Interesting that whilst Burden is getting all this attention, Nalle has been very quiet. Not sure I've heard of anything from him for a few years now. Has he hung up the shoes? Or just fed up with the media circus?
He kinda went on an anti capitalism thing, so maybe that’s why he’s off the socials?
Interesting that whilst Burden is getting all this attention, Nalle has been very quiet. Not sure I've heard of anything from him for a few years now. Has he hung up the shoes? Or just fed up with the media circus?
He kinda went on an anti capitalism thing, so maybe that’s why he’s off the socials?
Plenty of recent photos of him on this Instagram account. Not sure who she is but she takes nice photos.
https://instagram.com/pixbyeisa?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Looks like he did a very hard dyno based problem last Rocklands season:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CiE3e2jjPG6/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
live streaming again for those interested
that heel beta looked well bomber, and he figured out a legit sequence well fast, was a bit surprised he didn't pursue it further,
Both videos are on YouTube now too:live streaming again for those interested
Scrollable vid for those of us with adhd (massive link)
https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/v/t50.2886-16/10000000_1600500937041127_5172504011397076310_n.mp4?efg=eyJ2ZW5jb2RlX3RhZyI6InZ0c192b2RfdXJsZ2VuLjUwNC5pZ3R2LmRlZmF1bHQiLCJxZV9ncm91cHMiOiJbXCJpZ193ZWJfZGVsaXZlcnlfdnRzX290ZlwiXSJ9&_nc_ht=instagram.flhr13-1.fna.fbcdn.net&_nc_cat=107&_nc_ohc=yPPiynOaupUAX8DTQgI&edm=AOmX9WgBAAAA&vs=18000942724642774_983292132&_nc_vs=HBksFQAYJEdJQ1dtQURucE5DcHBhOEZBRllWbTBiX2JNaEhicUNCQUFBRhUAAsgBABUAGCRHSUNXbUFCUzRFcVpSWTBBQUVFOXRxQTRnRUFaYnFDQkFBQUYVAgLIAQAoABgAGwGIB3VzZV9vaWwBMRUAACb%2BuI76hP%2BSQBUCKAJDMywXQLyQrpeNT98YEmRhc2hfYmFzZWxpbmVfMl92MREAdewHAA%3D%3D&_nc_rid=b68f387a03&ccb=7-5&oh=00_AfCMD099C5agOML_xWgxwDQijt549TJd0MjMDl7ydMIwEg&oe=6416BE6E&_nc_sid=2be895
Session 3 now streaming, with appearance from Toru https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okCxLv6tS0AHe's looking pretty strong!
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?
Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.
He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the videoGood spot, I must have skipped through that bit
If only I'd known about oatcakes and water 30 years ago ...
And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times.
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?
Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.
He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the video (don't know if he'd pulled on before that) and whilst still wearing his down jacket, so yeah not far off at all.
And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times. Would not surprise if he just did it next session.
He said that's because his shoe has broken to much in the video?
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?
Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.
He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the video (don't know if he'd pulled on before that) and whilst still wearing his down jacket, so yeah not far off at all.
And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times. Would not surprise if he just did it next session.
From my armchair it looks like there's a big difference in what happens next between doing the footwalk and doing the footwalk perfectly. When he's pulling on from stand he can place the foot perfectly. He hasn't done the footwalk well enough from the floor yet to open up the top. If he's worried about skin I wonder whether he can figure out how to finesse the foot moves before going from the floor.
He does look very very close though, and this is just speculation from a punter armchair.
I am loving watching the process in these videos and getting to know the characters. Those of you listening without sound are missing out.... Nalle will now in my head always be The Gruffalo !
Wasn’t sure where to put this but thought it was topical for this thread given I’m sure WB says on one of these livestreams that Terranova is one of the hardest things he’s tried. https://youtu.be/m9NMRYZySo8
Very short sessions so far. Something like 45 mins, 2hrs and 1hr so far. Is that the nature of a fairly short problem, as opposed to a longer problem with more but easier moves to work?
Here is Will on Jam Crack. I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast
Here is Will on Jam Crack. I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast
Listened to this earlier. Brilliant. First 20 mins right up there with the best Jam Crack intro rambles and a great interview.
One particular point of interest was Bosi confirming definitively that he's retired from comps, and that the main driver of that was team bureaucracy. I think it was discussed on here a while ago, but that seems both incredible and really quite sad that one of the best climbers in the UK has been driven out of competing in that way.
Now it just needs Aiden to show up.
Now it just needs Aiden to show up.
He’s said on his podcast recently that, due to Brits being limited for time in Europe now, he wants to combine Burden with a longer Scandi trip, rather than driving up from Swizz this time. I guess the team psyche might change his mind though!
That wall is utterly incredible, would be really cool to see the full thing done!
The ramp line is currently impossible is my verdict, there is no opposition possible and the ramp slopes. when 8C is a warm up it might be worth a look.
Nice interview with Will on the Lattice podcast came out just over a week ago talking fresh from the send!Also just done an interview with The Nugget
Nice little portrait, including some intriguing sequences of him on Violent New Breed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmmMbpCsSuA
You might be mixing up with Unfinished Symphony? It's left of the requiem crack and stops mid-face.
Ooh interesting, it sounds like I've got my wires crossed as I thought Free at Last was the finish to Unfinished Symphony. But it sounds like Free at last is a separate line? And unfinished symphony is still unfinished?
You might be mixing up with Unfinished Symphony? It's left of the requiem crack and stops mid-face.
Ooh interesting, it sounds like I've got my wires crossed as I thought Free at Last was the finish to Unfinished Symphony. But it sounds like Free at last is a separate line? And unfinished symphony is still unfinished?
Also still wondering if FaL does go to the top, as that bit of the video isn’t very clear… - anyone?
"Topping out felt absolutely incredible and this route is definitely a highlight for me." (https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/will-bosi-is-free-at-last-at-dumbarton-in-scotland.html)
I'd heard Rob Sutton was having a look, I presume it wasn't just the existing 2/3rds.
Takes many years and countless sessions, on great form and then gives it 8C, with maybe a +?
Takes many years and countless sessions, on great form and then gives it 8C, with maybe a +?
In the words of Sid Waddell
“When Alexander of Macedonia was 33, he cried salt tears because there were no more worlds to conquer … Will Bosi is 24”
I found it highly entertaining that Bosi's 9A project trip diet is steak, sweet potato wedges and chocolate biscuits. Can we get Dave Mac to live on that for a month?
We've all done it haven't we. I shudder at the thought of how much Coca Cola I used to drink when I was in my teens, and how many energy drinks I had after that!
Does seem a little odd that he's not improved his diet yet given he's trying to perform at the absolute highest level of the sport.
We've all done it haven't we. I shudder at the thought of how much Coca Cola I used to drink when I was in my teens, and how many energy drinks I had after that!
Does seem a little odd that he's not improved his diet yet given he's trying to perform at the absolute highest level of the sport.
Does seem a little odd that he's not improved his diet yet given he's trying to perform at the absolute highest level of the sport.
Does seem a little odd that he's not improved his diet yet given he's trying to perform at the absolute highest level of the sport.
My partner is a nutritionist, and sometimes remarks on the differences in literature about 'performance' nutrition compared to general long-term health nutrition. I won't butcher an attempt to sum this up in any detail, but as a very rough gist the former seems to be a bit more laissez-faire about additive-laden junk, within the context of lifestyle and when it's consumed etc.
Is it that odd given that he is performing at the absolute highest level of the sport?
Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?
Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.https://www.itv.com/watch/news/how-3d-printing-helped-one-man-scale-the-hardest-boulder-in-the-world/g0zl3xn
Nice little film. And not a deck of cards/dice in sight. Would have been funny if there was a little 'easter egg' pack of cards, or even better, some furry dice on the rear view mirror :lol:.
Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.https://www.itv.com/watch/news/how-3d-printing-helped-one-man-scale-the-hardest-boulder-in-the-world/g0zl3xn
A fairly respectable, and not too cringey, report for non-climbing journalism . First outdoor boulder ascent covered by a British mainstream news outlet?
Will & bourdon were on ITV news at ten last night.https://www.itv.com/watch/news/how-3d-printing-helped-one-man-scale-the-hardest-boulder-in-the-world/g0zl3xn
A fairly respectable, and not too cringey, report for non-climbing journalism . First outdoor boulder ascent covered by a British mainstream news outlet?
Excellent! On the subject of replicas - the climbing community agreed unless Will climbed the boulder on his first try he hadn't done anything wrong :lol:
While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?
While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?
Doesn’t Ondra also eat like that? Also heard he’s not averse to a good drinking sesh either!
While her diet was, perhaps, a but more healthy, Janja also had a refreshingly lassaiz faire attitude to food. Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?
Doesn’t Ondra also eat like that? Also heard he’s not averse to a good drinking sesh either!
I don't think so. The only bit of info I remember about his diet implied he was mostly vegetarian, or at least pescatarian, and otherwise sounded very healthy indeed. Which, you know, for the best climber in the world shouldn't be a surprise?
Maybe not stressing about it, and following what your body says takes one less stress out of the top performance game?
I'd love to see someone try and convince Dave Brailsford of that.
He's Scottish, by national standards his diet is good!This^
I think Will has taken the crown (from Adam) for "Most endearing top climber in the world" :wub:
ah cannae hold this fuckin grip man, passus the fan ya cunt
Very nice film. When he did it the fingerswap seemed like sleight-of-finger it was so smooth.
I think Will has taken the crown (from Adam) for "Most endearing top climber in the world" :wub:
my mind wandered to a thread on here years ago in which JB and Stu L mentioned how a crag diet of (iirc) haribos and coke never did them any harm.
Wine Gums FTW. Perfect size, texture and sweetness to be consumed by the handful on the move.
I found it highly entertaining that Bosi's 9A project trip diet is steak, sweet potato wedges and chocolate biscuits. Can we get Dave Mac to live on that for a month?
No mention of the recent Inverness trip? :tumble:
UKB relies on on the ground reporters....Like Peter O'Hanraha-hanrahan?
Not sure his fluent German is any use in Inverness. "He said he doesn't like the grade but he'll go along with it"Ha ha, i appreciate the Brass Eye call back :thumbsup:
Sounded to me like he'd only tried the stand?
Good to see him absolutely rinsing the top. Looks like he's making faster progress than on Terranova...
Yet more speculation: I wonder whether the sloper/slot has gotten better over time? Seems like there's a lot of people sessioning it so I imagine it gets a lot of brushing, and it wouldn't take much to turn a shitty thin slot in to something a lot better.
Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...
Not sure on the dates but I think so
Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...
I can’t imagine they’ll give much of a shit.
The comments to https://www.instagram.com/p/C2Xf6BpreZ5/ has some verry funny content. You'd think that some of the commenters actually had done Sleepwalker themselves and are personally harmed because of the suggested downgrade :D
Better stop Mr. Pelorson at the border is my advice.
;D
Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...
What'd he say?
Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...
What'd he say?
He replies with some emojis to someone asking the question essentially... Take a look!
The comments to https://www.instagram.com/p/C2Xf6BpreZ5/ has some verry funny content. You'd think that some of the commenters actually had done Sleepwalker themselves and are personally harmed because of the suggested downgrade :D
Better stop Mr. Pelorson at the border is my advice.
I agree :2thumbsup:Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...
Oh no. Does that predate Burden? If so can we just pretend it doesn’t exist so at least the first Font 9 is something cool!
I agree :2thumbsup:Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...
Oh no. Does that predate Burden? If so can we just pretend it doesn’t exist so at least the first Font 9 is something cool!
Just confirms what we already know: real, hard climbing is grinding away on some disgusting polished limestone hovel. Everything else is just fun.
Is instagram like Twitter for climbers now or something? I’d be terrified to tentative suggest a personal/down-grade now. Didn’t Brooke get accused of misogyny after Box Therapy?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMIIffUMV8g&t=324s
Webb seems to get into the slot ok towards the end of this. Perhaps it's more of a height thing? It's also pretty funny how much Bosi looks like he's barely trying on his attempt compared to this (day 2 vs day 11). Next level.
…. Same thing as normal, different body types will have a different experience. I have a -1 reach which means I had to do a few extra hard adjustments to reach the slot crimp, and I couldn’t pinch the top hold since my hands didn’t span. It felt 16 for me compared to other climbs but also it doesn’t mean it’s 16 for everyone, as seen by wills post. Doesn’t mean any of us are right or wrong the grade just gives a relative experience on it
Which are these 7Cs that are easier than West Side, please?My thoughts exactly.
Which are these 7Cs that are easier than West Side, please?
Ova Arm, Les Grand Doigts, zaff skocylas, Mossatrocity, cap gun, truffle, spring voyage, submergence, bens wall, domes sit, brass monkeys, echo chamber, diagon alley etc etc these are all easier than west side story :lol: and it’s no secret that most people consider west side 7C especially after the pebble on the face broke making the move to the break even harder if you’re short.
I wouldn’t say I’m technically deficient at vert
Also Will don’t forget you’re about a foot taller than me
If the problems being pointed out as easier aren’t in a similar style to the supposed sandbag, it just makes one look technically deficient, rather than indicating an upgrade is required ;D
Arguing over 1 grade is pointless, even within a given style. Reducing the scale to 'low 7', 'high 7', 'low 8', etc. still wouldn't completely eliminate debate. How many more debates do we need to see for this to be obvious to everyone?
Arguing over 1 grade is pointless,
But yes also this. They're all high 7s. As Sleepwalker is clearly a high 8. Job done.
The first law of bouldering discussion is that it all eventually leads to bickering about tall people downgrading things
The first law of bouldering discussion is that it all eventually leads to bickering about tall people downgrading things
Quote from: drewruana…. Same thing as normal, different body types will have a different experience. I have a -1 reach which means I had to do a few extra hard adjustments to reach the slot crimp, and I couldn’t pinch the top hold since my hands didn’t span. It felt 16 for me compared to other climbs but also it doesn’t mean it’s 16 for everyone, as seen by wills post. Doesn’t mean any of us are right or wrong the grade just gives a relative experience on it
Like everywhere the peak has sandbags and it has softies. Maybe it has more sandbags than softies idk. Some of these might just be soft or sandbagged for you (or you and your collective group who might have similar views to you informed by climbing together alot)
Albarracins grades will never make much sense because the holds are eternally changing, by brushing or hold breakage. Look at Zazamora the holds have changed just via brushing in a massive ways. The issue there is just people don't acknowledge this and so there's constant information assymetry. Then people look back at old grades and say people have taken massive grades for things, when infact the blocs have changed quite massively (in my experience having been in 2016,17,19 and 20-21)
People say magic woods is soft, I found it nails but hadn't climbed inside for 3 years when I went and had zero snappyness, having recently been going on a board again I'm sure I'd have a very different perspective on that now.
I will forever find it wild how confident people can be over grades being x or y though. The more I do the less things make sense.
The more I do the less things make sense.
But yes also this. They're all high 7s. As Sleepwalker is clearly a high 8. Job done.
But is Ben's high 7 or low 8? And so it continues...
It will be interesting to see if Will gets to sample other US hard problems to see how quickly he does other V14 and 15s.
The more I do the less things make sense.
Like everywhere the peak has sandbags and it has softies. Maybe it has more sandbags than softies idk. Some of these might just be soft or sandbagged for you (or you and your collective group who might have similar views to you informed by climbing together alot)
Albarracins grades will never make much sense because the holds are eternally changing, by brushing or hold breakage. Look at Zazamora the holds have changed just via brushing in a massive ways. The issue there is just people don't acknowledge this and so there's constant information assymetry. Then people look back at old grades and say people have taken massive grades for things, when infact the blocs have changed quite massively (in my experience having been in 2016,17,19 and 20-21)
People say magic woods is soft, I found it nails but hadn't climbed inside for 3 years when I went and had zero snappyness, having recently been going on a board again I'm sure I'd have a very different perspective on that now.
I will forever find it wild how confident people can be over grades being x or y though. The more I do the less things make sense.
Hard to imagine Bosi not making mincemeat of eg Jade. It would be fun to let him loose on the Peabody boulder as well. He might have done these already tbf
To me, grades generally make complete sense. As a way of comparing problems with other similar problems I think they generally work really well. Grades make less sense when obvious outliers aren't robustly challenged. These tend to be newer problems or things where there's been a sequence change/altered holds/cleaner holds etc. Things like Renaissance at Baildon - if that was left at 7B+ then everything else starts to fall apart because similar climbs of 7A or 7A+ feel about the same.
Trying to make sense of grades by thinking about how hard they feel to you (instead of how hard they feel compared to other similar problems) leads to confusion. People have so much knowledge about their physical strength ("I can do X% BW on a Y mm edge so I'm strong for grade Z") that it makes them feel entitled to a particular grade - if they then struggle it leads them to assume that the problem should be upgraded. I cannot touch Crystal Method, but that doesn't mean it isn't 7B+. I'm just shit at shouldery rock-overs.
Maybe it would be better if they weren't called 'grades' and called something like 'guides' or 'estimates' or some other word that better represents their inherent fuzziness. Grades gives the impression of something more quantifiable.
To me, grades generally make complete sense. As a way of comparing problems with other similar problems I think they generally work really well. Grades make less sense when obvious outliers aren't robustly challenged. These tend to be newer problems or things where there's been a sequence change/altered holds/cleaner holds etc. Things like Renaissance at Baildon - if that was left at 7B+ then everything else starts to fall apart because similar climbs of 7A or 7A+ feel about the same.
Trying to make sense of grades by thinking about how hard they feel to you (instead of how hard they feel compared to other similar problems) leads to confusion. People have so much knowledge about their physical strength ("I can do X% BW on a Y mm edge so I'm strong for grade Z") that it makes them feel entitled to a particular grade - if they then struggle it leads them to assume that the problem should be upgraded. I cannot touch Crystal Method, but that doesn't mean it isn't 7B+. I'm just shit at shouldery rock-overs.
Maybe this just makes me a bad grader then, but I cba trying to grade problems on how hard I think a move is going to feel for someone else, I just grade on how hard something feels for me. I find even among problems that on are on paper in the same style and in a similar grade range there is still a significant amount of variance in how much effort me and my friends spend on each individual problem.
Mammut have a hitlist
Sleepwalker - $10k sit $15k
Alphane - $15k
Burden of dreams - used to be $20k but you only get $15k now
West side story - $25k
Can someone please put out a $100k contract on Shadowplay
Surprised Bosi/Aidan havent put some time into it
Mammut have a hitlist
Sleepwalker - $10k sit $15k
Alphane - $15k
Burden of dreams - used to be $20k but you only get $15k now
West side story - $25k
Can someone please put out a $100k contract on Shadowplay
Surprised Bosi/Aidan havent put some time into it
even though I assume this was tounge in cheek I believe they've both had a play on it.
Andy's Problem Sit
No, the Caley one.
Is it just me or could it go from a much lower start?Pad stack, back around, etc etc.
Is it just me or could it go from a much lower start?
Is it just me or could it go from a much lower start?
does anyone know if anyone got round to climbing the original version of the sitter yet? Supposedly adds 8A+ into Sleepwalker, whereas Return adds 8B.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BtoE2SNlv4r/
Bosi should have had a bash after ROTSW, could have been a quick 8C+/9A FA.
Is it just me or could it go from a much lower start?
does anyone know if anyone got round to climbing the original version of the sitter yet? Supposedly adds 8A+ into Sleepwalker, whereas Return adds 8B.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BtoE2SNlv4r/
Bosi should have had a bash after ROTSW, could have been a quick 8C+/9A FA.
Nice, we've all heard that story before. Did you flash the zone? "I can't say". Did you ground up Careless Torque? "I couldn't possibly comment"
Noticed Dave Mc did his long term project at 8B+ [Bultitude], and followed the trend of not telling anyone for a month. Will Bosi repeated in in a day a few weeks back and held off with that news until Dave released his. I had thought this would be harder as its taken him a long time.