21

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by Davo on Today at 07:38:44 am »

Hi Stone

I basically agree with you regarding economic policies and I don’t see that we can’t improve things a great deal if the political will is there.

However, my opinion is that I prefer almost any form of Labour govt over the conservative one we have now. I also think that Corbyn was pretty much a disaster for Labour in terms of electability. I liked the majority of his policies but the way he went about leading Labour and presenting himself to the electorate was abysmal. I understand that he appealed to quite a lot of people and got many people very excited about politics for the first time but clearly he was unelectable.

I am not enthused by most of Starmer’s policies but neither am I appalled by them like I am by most of the decisions that the current govt has made over the last 10 years. I just want a change and I want to give Labour a chance to have a go at running the country. They have enough ideas and policies that if implemented will at the very least make things slightly better. There is unlikely to be much economic radicalism initially but possibly there might be in a second term if they win again.

Cheers Dave

22

diet, training and injuries / Re: Internet based drama about differently shaped lumps of wood

« Last post by Stu Littlefair on Today at 07:28:18 am »

Big numbers for weak fingers

23

diet, training and injuries / Re: Internet based drama about differently shaped lumps of wood

« Last post by teestub on Today at 07:24:07 am »

Designing an edge that will allow people to post vids of themselves lifting more weight, without actually getting stronger, seems like a market winner for sure!

24

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by stone on Today at 07:23:46 am »

What is real is the people we have here and their capabilities, the land we have here, the rest of the world and the real resources people there might exchange with us.

All the rest of it is societal constructs. The powers-that-be evidently are happy to recognise that at times. For covid, bank bailouts, wars etc, we get central bank treasury coordination etc to do whatever it takes.

I don't even think we need much in terms of economic radicalism anyway. Just a willingness to face up to vested interests. Wealth taxes, rent controls, employment reform etc would be enough. Like I said, I'd be delighted with something like the 2017 Labour manifesto.

25

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by stone on Today at 07:12:57 am »

I thought the 2017 Labour manifesto was excellent.

Funnily enough, perhaps a good overview of what Labour then was about is this report from the rightwing think tank Policy Exchange https://policyexchange.org.uk/publication/mcdonnellomics/

26

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 07:08:27 am »

Stone, it's not as simple as it being a choice not to implement the Utopian Shopping List. All that stuff you want costs a lot of money that the treasury would have to front astronomical sums to implement. What I think Toby means when he says no party is being completely honest is that nobody has really spelled out to the electorate just how crap our finances are (and the age of cheap capital is over).

Not to mention that your Utopian Shopping List is very different to someone else's and politicians have to strike a balance between the electorate's various desires.

27

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by ToxicBilberry on Today at 07:00:57 am »

How has the Tory party moved that range to the right and at the same time created a situation where they’re looking at the potential for a big defeat? Or are Labour now right of where they were when Tony Blair was in power?

Q2: no, they are not.  Q1: I don't believe that they have,  really.  Indeed,  I'm not sure that traditional left and right makes that much sense now.  It's almost inevitable that more money needs to be spent on defence in the next few years; I don't like it,  but it does.  Neither party is being totally honest about how difficult economic choices will be in the next few years,  there isn't going to be badly needed big spending on public services, or lower taxes.  Both parties are desperately trying not to mention Brexit,  which is plainly silly from a policy point of view but convenient politically for both of them.  Management of trade and migration are hugely dependent on our relationship with Europe and it needs addressing. 
I haven't voted Labour for a long time but almost certainly will now, they're closer to having the beginning of a decent environmental/ industrial policy, and have a credible sane shadow chancellor and a shadow health secretary with some positive sounding ideas on the NHS.

Thanks, that makes sense. I voted for Corbyn but won’t be voting at all this time.

Stone, I’m not sure what your ideological vision is? I hear some people talking about being ‘utopians’     but I’m not sure what that utopia looks like.

28

diet, training and injuries / Re: Internet based drama about differently shaped lumps of wood

« Last post by Stu Littlefair on Today at 06:56:20 am »

So, first the caveat that it’s still just pulling on edges, it’s not going to be radically different to a campus rung. With that in mind…

Some context: the reason I bought one is that I have a bit of an issue with my finger lengths when training a half crimp. For me, my pinky is usually straight, and the edge sits nicely on the crease at the end of the first joint. This can support a lot of weight, but it’s unpredictable. I could just use a front 3 of course but that can get tweaky. I was hoping the MXEdge (TM) would fix that.

You’re right that both the lattice edge and the unlevel edges will put the mid 2 fingers in a comfier position and make training a bit less tweaky.

However I’ve tried the unlevel edges and for me they do share the load out more across all the fingers. I’ve gone back and forth about if this is a good thing. I can see arguments for and against.

However the lattice MXedge (TM) does not (for me) do the same thing. The weight distribution across the fingers feels similar to how I would hold a flat edge. This is true to the extent that neither Jules or I thought it felt any different to a flat edge on first acquaintance.

Having used it in anger though I can say I like it. It feels quite a bit less tweaky and I can pick up more weight than I would be able to on a flat edge of similar size. These seem like good things.

I’m not sure why I can lift more with it. The better joint angles is one possible reason, but another is that the curved back has en effect which is similar to “nestling” on a flat edge - holding the fingers together and reducing load on the lumbricals and interossei.

At the end of the day it’s hard to tell if picking up larger weights actually causes more activation/recruitment in the forearm muscles, which is what we care about. For both the lattice and uneven edges other effects could be at play. As far as I’m aware no-one is doing needle-based EMG studies of the flexor digital profundus with these edges, but that’s the data you’d need to see if they are actually going to make you stronger!

However, where I REALLY like the lattice edge is for awkward grips - back 3, full crimp. Full crimps in particular feel much more natural and comfy than on a flat edge. I’d be happier training these grips on this board than a standard fingerboard.

The block itself is a nice design. Surprisingly it works as a pinch quite well too, although they are obviously shallow pinches. It’s stable and doesn’t tilt. The mono is nicely done and doesn’t get in the way.

It’s not as well made or pretty as the gorgeous hardwood and resin hold Ned made for me, but it’s pretty good for a commercial softwood edge.

What’s not as good? Well it costs a lot of money. Also there’s nothing to stop you using a normal edge and placing your fingers on it the same way! This would be less repeatable, but a lot cheaper.

29

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by stone on Today at 06:43:19 am »

Our job as a society is to try and have everyone happily employed doing the jobs that really need doing.

When I hear stuff such as "credible sane policies that recognise difficult economic circumstances" etc, it generally transpires that what that actually boils down to is an acceptance of things being utterly screwed up.

It is just a choice that we leave what is desperately needed undone whilst having vast swathes of people either underemployed or being asset-managers, buy-to-let landlords, hand-car-washers etc. We don't have what we need because of those choices.

30

diet, training and injuries / Re: Bunion but not a bunion?

« Last post by Oldmanmatt on Today at 03:37:31 am »

Where are you based? I had a similar issue with my big toe and managed to swiftly get an appointment at the podiatry clinic in the local health centre by simply filling in a self-referral form. In Burnley. I have done this twice actually and was very impressed with the service.

Incidentally, I have found that the longer term solution to this problem is to wear gel toe protectors when climbing. The difference in pain levels with and without these is enormous!

Brands and photos please! Not come across these.

NOT photos of your feet! I meant the gel thingies.