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1
shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024
« Last post by Oldmanmatt on Today at 08:53:54 am »
All that stuff you want costs a lot of money that the treasury would have to front astronomical sums to implement.

Or private individuals.


An overrated source of funds. In comparison to the wealth of even a moderately sized developed nation, even the most fabulous Billionaire pales. There is some realistic comparison where the individual, personal wealth blurs into the nations wealth (most Middle Eastern Monarchies, Putin’s Russia etc), but they’re unlikely to help  UK development much…
2
a fresh Metallica cover has dropped on c4hp's inta stories as well as some more shots at Lattice. And just when I thought it was high time to unfollow them :popcorn:

I’d love to see their 😭😭😭 posts, but I got blocked after mildly questioning one of the more esoteric training posts
3
a fresh Metallica cover has dropped on c4hp's inta stories as well as some more shots at Lattice. And just when I thought it was high time to unfollow them :popcorn:
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shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024
« Last post by stone on Today at 08:44:26 am »
ali k, I'm keen to hear more about building regs from you as you say you know about it.

My impression was that in 2010 there were plans in place towards transitioning to very high energy conservation standards but those were scrapped. In France don't they have such a plan still ongoing (happy to be corrected)?

My impression is that even the small amount of Passivhaus social housing building that has happened has led to dramatic cost reductions due to 'learning-by-doing" such that now costs are comparable to standard builds https://www.passivhaustrust.org.uk/competitions_and_campaigns/passivhaus-for-local-authorities/

I'm put in mind of how at the start of the covid pandemic, we got told that there was no way covid PCR tests could be done on a large scale. I saw first hand how totally inexperienced people could be rapidly trained up to the point where they could train up others to do tens of thousands of covid PCRs a day.

Let's remember that at the start of WWII, the USA not only didn't have many battleships, they didn't have the ship yards, or the trained staff or anything. They taught and built and got all of that done in a couple of years.
5
shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024
« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 08:39:40 am »
You're not doing it right, Ali. You have to close your eyes tight, ball your fists, and believe. All we need is the political will to leave our reality and we shall ascend to the sunlit uplands.
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I don’t quite know what I think about these unlevel edges.

Firstly, the reason you can lift more weight with an unlevel edge is the finger positioning on a flat edge creates mechanical disadvantages which these address. Great. So the edge allows me to train heavier loads in idealised conditions. Is weight a good proxy for strength? Same force in a mechanically advantageous position means more weight held, but I don’t see that lower weight in a mechanically disadvantaged position means  the muscle is being trained to produce less force, just that it’s being applied less efficiently. Surely the advantage of a flat edge is it replicates real world application and what we want is force in those conditions. So a flat edge trains muscle to produce force under mechanical disadvantage. That’s just climbing, right?

So is there an advantage in training under mechanically advantaged conditions? It seems to me that some fingers are not loaded enough on a flat edge to get a good training stimulus and the unlevel edges address this. So that’s a clear positive.

Additionally, a better distribution of load and joint angles should be less tweaky. No one wants a finger injury from training.

So my take is that they’re a good addition, strengthening some fingers/finger positions and being less injury inducing, but flat edge training still has value.
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shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024
« Last post by ali k on Today at 08:02:19 am »
All that stuff you want costs a lot of money that the treasury would have to front astronomical sums to implement.

Or private individuals.

Stone - one of the items on your Utopian Shopping List is ‘Passivhaus standards for new buildings’. By when? Legislation passed in the first 100 days? By the end of the Parliament? I assume this covers houses too? Do we currently have the knowledge/skills to implement this across the industry nationwide? What would this do to house prices/renting costs (which are already unaffordable for many)? Or would general taxation subsidise this for private buyers/renters?

Don’t get me wrong, building standards in the UK have been very poor, particularly houses. And the UK is way behind the curve with energy efficiency. But the industry is moving in the right direction.

I’ve picked up on one item on your list that I know something about. If Labour put that in their manifesto to update Building Regs to Passivhaus standards even by 2030 I’d piss myself knowing how unrealistic it was and would have to conclude the rest of the manifesto is equally pie in the sky. Which is what happened when Corbyn was in charge.

I’m sure the other items on your list could be equally dismantled or picked apart on further interrogation by someone with the knowledge and/or inclination (e.g. the right wing press). So Labour would get nowhere near Downing Street. That’s the most important first step to getting anything done.
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diet, training and injuries / Re: Bunion but not a bunion?
« Last post by NaoB on Today at 07:46:27 am »
Where are you based? I had a similar issue with my big toe and managed to swiftly get an appointment at the podiatry clinic in the local health centre by simply filling in a self-referral form. In Burnley. I have done this twice actually and was very impressed with the service.

Incidentally, I have found that the longer term solution to this problem is to wear gel toe protectors when climbing. The difference in pain levels with and without these is enormous!


Brands and photos please! Not come across these.
NOT photos of your feet! I meant the gel thingies.

You are quite right, you REALLY don't want to see a photo of how my toes looked before I resorted to these!!
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shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024
« Last post by TobyD on Today at 07:46:06 am »
I thought the 2017 Labour manifesto was excellent.

Doesn't that involve big spending and borrowing? When the gilt market and higher interest rate makes that even less of an idea now. Do you really think that Russia will leave Europe alone if we leave them alone?
Apart from anything else, in 2017 nowhere near enough people voted labour to make it a realistic plan for government.

Haven't we recently had a prime minister who tried some economic radicalism and ideas from a think tank? Surely Corbyn ideas would have gone exactly the same way.
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diet, training and injuries / Re: Bunion but not a bunion?
« Last post by NaoB on Today at 07:45:19 am »
DYKOOK Cuttable Toe Tubes (5 Packs) Big Toe Protectors Made of Elastic Fabric Lined with Silicone Gel. Toe Protectors Relief Toe Pressure Pain,Corn and Calluses Remover (for Big toes-10CM) https://amzn.eu/d/arPaTco

Can get them from Amazon. Also available in high street shops like body care, boots, super drug etc.
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