UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: r-man on January 06, 2009, 06:44:48 pm
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I've just spent an enjoyable week revisiting old projects in the quarries, and done a few new problems which some lancs based people might be interested in. Hope you enjoy the video - no HD here though, just footage from an assortment of phones and stills cameras.
http://vimeo.com/2739005 (http://vimeo.com/2739005)
New stuff:
1.Superflea - 7B - Harcles Hill
2.Barmfingers - 6C - Healey Nab
3.Double Dutch - 7B+ - Healey Nab
4.Fairweather Slapper - 7A+ - Greenbooth
5.The Glass Ceiling - 7A - Greenbooth
6.Whodunnit - 7B - Ashworth Moor
I've also knocked up a guide to Ashworth Moor and Greenbooth: http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:1655 (http://vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:1655) - Both these crags are between Ramsbottom and Rochdale. Worthwhile if you live nearby.
Get to it, red rosers. Double Dutch in particular is fantastic.
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it says it's a private video! no footage of jumbles stuff?
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Fixed. No, didn't do anything at Jumbles. Went to Ashworth instead.
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Robin, what's that piece of music over Rock This Country? An amazing song...
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Double Dutch- Bugger, I didn't think of going left. I was being too pure and going direct :lol: I'll have to go back now.
Did you try the traverse? Grade?
EDIT:
Just seen this:
The grade is for getting stood up, not lanking to the top, so to earn your rockover
kudos, get both feet on the slab, then go with left hand to the top.
:-\
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Monolith - it's Solid Air, by John Martyn. Seek out the eponymous album, it's incredible.
GCW - I tried going right, still an obvious hard challenge definitely. As for the traverse, I tried briefly, and it will be a great piece of steep climbing, but there is one key hold crumbling away. This needs stabilising with resin or something. I had to leave it as it was too soft to pull on with. I reckon the obvious challenge is starting up Barmfingers and traversing left to finish via the jug on the arete. This looked like around 7b/7b+. Probably harder to do the reverse as shown in the topo.
Also, try the double undercut to top dyno right of Double Dutch. I tickled the top, and it will probably be about 7a+/7b - 7a+ probably if you can do it from the low footholds. Might suit you...
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As for the traverse, I tried briefly, and it will be a great piece of steep climbing, but there is one key hold crumbling away.
I meant Titanium Trav. I assume you're talking about the traverse of those 2 walls.
I may go and have a look this week, should be dry now.
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Ah - sorry, didn't try. I got sucked in to my little corner, then it got dark.
...But if you (or anyone) can find some way of stabilising the hold on the steep wall, that would be brilliant. I'd love to climb it.
The grade is for getting stood up, not lanking to the top, so to earn your rockover
kudos, get both feet on the slab, then go with left hand to the top.
:-\
Haha, I was thinking of you... ;) That rock is incredibly slippy, getting stood up is amazingly difficult.
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...But if you (or anyway) can find some way of stabilising the hold on the steep wall, that would be brilliant. I'd love to climb it.
I'll have a look. The rock there is a little brittle.
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What's the Jumbles stuff?
My Missus' family live in Bury and we often visit the Jumbles. I've had a nosey around the quarry, seem to remember some likely looking lines.
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There are a few good looking lines, including one that looks as though it might be a fingery dyno/standup to a lovely jug, then a highball finish. They might need some cleaning first. I've only had a look round - I went down after hearing that one of the Geoffs had developed the place, but I'm not sure what has been climbed.
The best stuff is over to the right hand side of the quarry - from the car park, walk down the steps. Continue past the quarry a little bit, and turn left up the first path. This takes you to the far end of the quarry, which is better than trudging through the swamp.
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(http://s121386995.onlinehome.us/phil/tri/images/cat-bag.jpg) sorry
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Word cheers Robin. Just been looking at your site, seems like there's plenty to go at around the area. Wheres' the best venue near Bury?
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Word cheers Robin. Just been looking at your site, seems like there's plenty to go at around the area. Wheres' the best venue near Bury?
Brownstones is probably 30/40 mins drive from bury itself and is the best venue in the area, otherwise in terms of being close to bury there's not that much that's amazing, or has a lot of problems, but harcles hill has some good problems, as do ashworth and pinfold.
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And Blackstone Edge isn't too far either, and well worth a look.
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Yep, Brownstones is the best. Loads of stuff there.
http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:768 (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:768)
Or head east 30/40 min past Rochdale to Blackstone. Also good, but go in a dry period as it can be green. http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:767 (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:767)
Or northwest 50 min to Longridge for overhanging stuff.
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/?t=anon (http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/?t=anon)
Other places have good problems, but from Bury they are a bit of a trek for what they currently have to offer.
Venues nearer Bury are mostly minor, or still not properly developed (it's a slowly ongoing mission) but Superflea at Harcles Hill is good, and Ashworth/Greenbooth offer fun esoterica.
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Did a few new things over Easter. Best of these is a great lip trav on Lark Hill at Holcombe Moor.
Danger Zone - 7B - From low jugs in the bottom break, reach the lip and traverse left below the middle break to reach the jug on the end face. From here, climb straight up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A14RrHQVZt8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A14RrHQVZt8)
(http://[url=http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3609/3458938205_75d6a93294.jpg?v=0]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3609/3458938205_75d6a93294.jpg?v=0[/url])(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3530/3458937297_16d2986ab3.jpg?v=0)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3542/3458936503_4b01c3dc16.jpg?v=0)
Grid Ref is SD767177. I approached from the west (Crowthorn School) and parked at the top of the road, just past the gate. From here, a 15min wander along the path leads to a stream that splits the hills. Danger Zone is on the hillside a little way before the stream. Gets shade during the afternoon (don't know about morning).
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Also climbed the wall left of Brian Jacques at Cadshaw:
Mighty Mouse - 7A+ - Sitstart from the lowest edges and climb to a good break.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3647/3459755778_c35709c7db.jpg?v=0)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3523/3459757672_3e88bedfc3.jpg?v=0)
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At Brownstones, I climbed a couple of things that as far as I know haven't been done, though they turned out not to be as hard as I thought they might.
Idle Thumbs - 7A+ - Left of Groundhog is a corner. Climb the tight wall between flakes and the corner, with one hard move.
Knahrl - 7A - Sitstart the forked crack of Knah to reach the jug. Crack holds only!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NYVKxGo9ig (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NYVKxGo9ig)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsoTS6Oks04 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsoTS6Oks04)
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Good effort robin. Always wondered if there was anything on that side of holcombe moor!
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I'm sure Geoff H did Idle Thumbs years ago and declared it "6b". Noone else has doen it though :lol:
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Sam Anderton has been developing a limestone crag in Clitheroe (not far from Longridge). There look to be some decent highballs. I think there is more than shown in the topo below - he mentioned another problem called Bing V7, and some easy problems round the corner. A thick pad and spotter are recommended.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2442/3635141095_da5ce88161.jpg)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3537/3635141317_37c75fa70d.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3377/3635141603_d9c7e9ae8e.jpg)
http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/mm58/sam-a_2008/?action=view¤t=robinhood.flv (http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/mm58/sam-a_2008/?action=view¤t=robinhood.flv)
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Some more new lancs things. A few at Stronstrey, best of which is a great highball prow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYsHVoygHgg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYsHVoygHgg)
And under the bridge at Egerton, a fantastic barndoor-ing dynamic arete problem:
Broken Jokes - 7B - From the arete (use anything right of the crack), lurch to the slot in the wall and make a couple of moves right to the jug.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i7T6SttJ_g (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i7T6SttJ_g)
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Good effort r-man keep up the good work :great:.
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Is Stronstrey that we looked at a few years ago? Near a cricket pitch or something? The arete looks good.
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Is that Binks?
Yes, Stronstrey is over the back of the cricket club.
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Yep, that's the crag. When I'm topping out, you can just about hear the cricketers cheering a catch.
Remember this?
(http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/gallery/slides/HPIM1507.JPG)
Escaping Jam, FA MB
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Yes, thats why I thought the place name seemed familiar.
Is that Binks?
It is indeed.
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Had a bumble up to Cadshaw today and repeated Brian Jacques, one of R-Meister's 7as. I used the more technical sequence, which required my particular talents. Worth a look if you're a local.
R-man:
Brian Jacques, ft 7a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCG8t_V6p4U#)
Lankster:
Brian Jacques (http://www.vimeo.com/6522274)
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Did a few things at Stronstrey on Saturday and today. Love Handle, I went with the other hand to THE pinch, easier but it just seemed logical- sorry R-man.
Wurzealous is good too, prety keen to head back for Mirth of the Ducks.
Stronstrey Bouldering (http://www.vimeo.com/6580108)
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Enjoying your Lancs Lanks series. Keep livin' the quarried dream. I agree, your way of doing Love Handle makes more sense and makes the problems more independant. I shall await the third glorious HD installment with much antici
pation. Will the tall lad conquer the tall arete? Will the ducks be most amused? Will Stronstrey be besieged by hordes of pad-backed people? I know the answer to the last question, anyway.
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Enjoying your Lancs Lanks series. Keep livin' the quarried dream. I agree, your way of doing Love Handle makes more sense and makes the problems more independant. I shall await the third glorious HD installment with much antici
pation. Will the tall lad conquer the tall arete? Will the ducks be most amused? Will Stronstrey be besieged by hordes of pad-backed people? I know the answer to the last question, anyway.
Nice rhetoric.
Not sure if the pad-backed-packers will be invading, but the question on everyones lips is whether the itinerants will be making a return this year...? Believe it or not there was a family living at Stronstrey last year...(!) It was a pretty well insulated hut - when they returned with a dog, they weren't that happy really!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2541/3922002431_20e5bcb3b5.jpg)
Ignore the bearded fellow, he's an 'acquaintance'!
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Haha, that's brilliant!
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Had a bumble up to Cadshaw today and repeated Brian Jacques, one of R-Meister's 7as. I used the more technical sequence, which required my particular talents. Worth a look if you're a local.
im loving the popcorn
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Believe it or not there was a family living at Stronstrey last year...(!) It was a pretty well insulated hut - when they returned with a dog, they weren't that happy really!
I think my mate got bitten by that dog :lol:
I laughed when he told me too ;D
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Believe it or not there was a family living at Stronstrey last year...(!) It was a pretty well insulated hut - when they returned with a dog, they weren't that happy really!
I think my mate got bitten by that dog :lol:
I laughed when he told me too ;D
Truly one of the weirdest Lancs quarry experiences I've had for sure! :shrug:
Had a bumble up to Cadshaw today and repeated Brian Jacques, one of R-Meister's 7as. I used the more technical sequence, which required my particular talents. Worth a look if you're a local.
im loving the popcorn
agreed, it was a good touch that 8)
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Did canard today, we think 7a is probably about right. Worthwhile prow thing, definitely feels highball despite its diminutive size. Take 2 mats.
Wurzealous is a bit generous at 7a on further consideration. Nik flashed them both (beast etc).
I've modified the Stronstrey video (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10762.msg218846.html#msg218846) (above in this thread) to include the new footage. For those that can't be bothered watching all of it, fast forward to 1:50 for the Mirth of the Ducks.
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Pete Reynolds has put together a guide to eliminates at Tonacliffe Quarry - an esoteric venue near Rochdale. There are problems here up to V7-ish.
Cheers to Pete for getting it done - he's been on the other side of the planet for years, but recently nipped back for a wedding, and managed to get a few quarry photos to make the guide with. Now that's dedication!
:great:
Edit: I'm trying to upload it to the ukbouldering vimeo page, but having problems. Watch this space.
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Thanks to GCW's uploading skills, here it is http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:5575 (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/file:5575)
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Slim pickings in the quarries this Christmas, but despite the snow I managed to climb a few new things. Video on its way, but for now:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4266366016_7878c15bb9.jpg)
New things (white lines in pic):
Wilton 3
Blind Flurry, 7A - A direct sitstart to The Square. Without deviating to the good crimp out right, climb straight up.
Square-Crow, 6C - Sitstart at good holds as for before, but get a toe-lock in the break and reach the good edge out out right. Continue up the Square.
Common or Garden Squiggle, 6C+ - Hang the juggy ledge and power upwards. No footholds beneath the start block.
Nostriloquy, 6B+ - Climb the nostril feature.
Wilton 2
Swiss Dreams, 6C - Slap up the leaning face from sitting. Hands on the top block only. Use the footblock no higher than the obvious ledge.
These blocks all seem to stay dry after snow, topouts aside.
Over at Brownstones, I climbed a short wall on the far right of the Long Back Wall. This must have been done, but bizarrely even Geoff H hasn't claimed it. Well, someone has to... ;)
Old Tricks, 6B - The technical wall, to jugs. Rock left on to the ledge to escape.
Old Tricks, 6B, Brownstones (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYrYzTU0yDQ#)
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How does that relate to P's Pod?
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I can't see P's Pod on your wiki, but the description on UKC says P's Pod is the crack left of Dave's Route. Since this is Hank, I assume P's Pod must actually be the crack left of Hank, if it is a crack (which its name suggests).
There are also two other walls mentioned on UKC - SF2 and Midge Attack. Since these both talk of a loose wall, and are both about the same grade (5/5+), I think these are two claims on the chossy looking wall just left of the tree.
The problem I did is the wall between Hank and Dave's Route, finishing at half-height jugs.
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They are all in the PDF Vimeo download.
I'm not sure what Midge Attack is, but SF2 was done years ago. P's Pod is supposed to be between Dave's Route and Hank, but was referred to as a crack- unless those sideways flakes are thought of as a crack? :shrug:
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No crack on that wall. I'm guessing P's Pod is the crack to the left of Hank, and the description was a bit muddled. Plus, I'd be surprised if Geoff and Adam had skipped that crack.
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I did Blind Flurry starting on the far left under pasquill arete thing, traversing right on the small crimps and then going up to the start of the square. I thought it about 6c.
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(http://www.mch.govt.nz/nzflag/history/images/medal.jpg)
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Blind Flurry is a direct start, eliminating the start hold of The Square. If you traversed to the start of The Square, you probably did Square-Crow? Or did you go direct?
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The toe-lock bit in Square-Crow is a bit misleading, you can climb this any way you want. I just though it would be helpful to mention it. Also, starting further left doesn't really add anything, and I couldn't be bothered, though I remember trying it that way with you in the past.
Anyhow, you'll see what I mean when the video is finished converting.
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Finally got the export settings right. ::)
Click through to vimeo for HD...
Wilton Winter (http://www.vimeo.com/8682346)
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Just to keep everything cross referenced, there's a new Stronstrey Topo (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13318.0.html) and discussion thread now available.
If you spot any errors please let me know.
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good work chaps :great: Happy New Year
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Damp day today, but I've added a new traverse at Stronstrey. It's on the wall right of Escaping Jam, starting on a big flat hold and traversing right to finish matched in the farthest right crack.
There's only 2 awkward bits, the first being a neat sequence between the first 2 cracks which I think will be harder if you're smaller than me ( and miles easier if you've got more wingspan).
I think it's about font 6c, but it was quite damp so I will await a second opinion.
Shit phone vid, sorry:
Traverse (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYxFS9I8H1Q#)
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Ha! Ive had exactly the same experience on rodins requiem. Bonkers problem. maybe for the exceedingly lanky? I got a tiny bit higher by doing a a long hard rock over and popping to the overlap but ending up on tippy toes with finger tips up against the overlap was not a terribly helpful position to end up in. Must go back...
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Yes, very frustrating. There are good holds there, but they all face the wrong way... Feels like some trick is needed, but I couldn't figure it out. Will have to go back, it doth intrigue me. Let me know if you suss the beta!
Nice work with the developing GCW - keen to hear how your highball project goes...
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Once I get a mini digger and a sandblaster to clean it, I'll let you know :lol:
Never tried Rodin's, is the landing as bad as it appears?
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I thought it was ok with a couple of pads, would be a bit sketchier falling from higher up, but the landing zone is flat and I don't think you'd fall sidewards down the hill. With a couple more pads and a spotter it would be perfect.
At Stronstrey, is there no possibility of an easier downclimb, rather than topping out on the loose bit? Also, try cleaning it on a wet day - the lichen should come off much more easily.
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Once I get a mini digger and a sandblaster to clean it, I'll let you know :lol:
Never tried Rodin's, is the landing as bad as it appears?
Landings alright. First tried it in pre pad days.
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You want a medal, old man?
Re-did the traverse with Mr Beardy today. More like 6b in the dry :-[
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Had a bumble to Healey Nab today. I did Barmfingers (2nd ascent?) using a really tenuous outside edge on the first move. I failed on my little project, then had a little play on Grabadabadoo.
I had the idea of doing it without the arete, but ended up doing a cool eliminate. Basically start as for Grabadabadoo (block on right still out) and make a big move to the fair crimp level with the Grabadabadoo pinch. Tenuous right heel round the corner and slap the sloper on Grabadabadoo (no pinching!). Then a painful pull to get a foot on the starting handhold, and slap the top. If you like naming eliminates, it's The Stretch (try it and you'll see why) 7a+.
The left end is pretty clean at the moment, so anyone heading up there will have a few things to go at. The right side needs a good scrub though.
Healey Nab Again (http://vimeo.com/9949161)
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Went to Wilton One yesterday for a brief visit.
Did the crimpy line left of Snakey B mentioned somewhere on UKB ages ago) which is a good problem and pretty independent. Snakey B feels easy until the last move- is there some sneaky beta or do I just have to slap harder?
Also did a nice dynamic problem following the ramp feature to the sloper, then jump for the ledge- about 6c give or take 5 grades). I can't find it mentioned anywhere, so I'd suggest a name of Baby Fae.
Wilton 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1T-Pbrea2c#)
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Good stuff at Healey Nab and Wilton. Looking forward to revisitng Healey Nab some day.
On Snakey B, the trick is to get stood up into the undercut and reach the finishing hold from this. Once you have got right up into the undercut (crux) the last move is static, and not hard.
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Yes, I tried it that was with the same result. I'll head back at some point.
And one day I'll get off my arse and update a topo. :-[
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Wilton Micro Edit (http://vimeo.com/10142651)
this is the right thread this time. oops.
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Had a bumble to Healey Nab today. I did Barmfingers (2nd ascent?) using a really tenuous outside edge on the first move.
No! No! No! :spank:
I just watched your vid properly. You had your foot on the big sticky out sidewall. There's no way this is allowed! Tut tut. And more tutting.
:lol:
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I did that as the holds are pretty fragile, plus it's naturally where my foot goes so it was stupidly contrived to try to avoid it.
And, of course, Lancashire quarries don't contain eliminates, do they?
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Andi, just noticed you avoid using the overlap which I assumed was the line and which makes the LH more eliminate and contrived.
I'll have a look next visit.
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I like this thread. It makes me feel better about some of the things I climb in Cheshire.
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I did that as the holds are pretty fragile, plus it's naturally where my foot goes so it was stupidly contrived to try to avoid it.
And, of course, Lancashire quarries don't contain eliminates, do they?
It's a different piece of rock! No! no! no!
The holds are a bit fragile though. Maybe you could get some of Nik's super resin stuff and patch a few things up?
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where exactly does Snakey B finish? Had a brief look but couldn't decide... the high jug looks too high :-\
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The same good edge I finish at for the LH variant.
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The same good edge I finish at for the LH variant.
baby fae looks good, long last move though, could be an addition to the list...
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Drop me a text when you're next heading down.
Calum- you did the RH finish to Snakey B, right? Suggestions on grade before I commit to the mashing landing?
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Drop me a text when you're next heading down.
Calum- you did the RH finish to Snakey B, right? Suggestions on grade before I commit to the mashing landing?
Sorry mate. Not got a clue. Watching that video is the first time ive seen anyone else climb there apart from taking jim on tour once. Im not sure if i climbed b or left hand or a combination or both? One things for certain. I did neither from a sitter. Id be keen for the quarries before the midges come out in force. I do remember a dodgy fall once straddling the rocks. Just make sure you snag it.
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I was just looking back at this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4434.0.html), and going by what R-Meister said.
You dragged Jim there? Sadist :lol:
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Right, looked at the old thread (back then thought there was just one possible line on that bit) and watched andi e's clip. it looks a lot more familiar him doing it. is there an intermediate sloper to snag with the left anywhere? no matter. still done neither from sitter anyway. it felt a bit daft sit starting at the bottom of a big crag. Moral of story - need to go back.
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is there an intermediate sloper to snag with the left anywhere?
Not really, but I'm not sure exactly where you mean.
The RH finish would involve doing Snakey B via my sequence, but on matching the sidepull thing, boost feet high and slap up and right to the good ledge (above the bone mangling rocks). I was under the impression you'd done that? (although if it wasn't a sitter it won't count either) :P
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Went back at lunch. Due to skin issues I didn't really try Snakey B much, but fell off the last move using my sequence again.
I did the right hand version- same start to match the undercut/ sidepull thingy, then big stretch out right to a crimp and ledge. I found this pretty easy, felt about 6c/+ to me. But if you can't reach I can imagine it'd be in the 7s.
I had a dabble on (what I think is) Thulsa Doom and made good progress. The blocks are ok with a good stiff mat.
Back at work now, but I'll try to post a vid when I get home late tonight.
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Went to Wilton 1 tonight to check out Snakey B and Baby Fae. I managed to do Baby Fae after a bit of faffing and can confirm it as a quality eliminate, but getting into the overlap on SB felt hard. Good problems though
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As promised, a shit vid:
Wilton Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyjr-x4VOq4#)
Also a shit topo. R-man and clm, can you clarify the lines (or lack thereof)?
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Snakey.png)
1. Snakey Left Hand 7a+
Sit start on ramp using 1 and 2, LH to 6, RH 5. RH 9, LH onto 10. Then pull for 12 and victory.
2. Snakey B 6c+
Sit start on ramp using 1 and 2. LH to 6, RH 5. LH crimp 9, RH undercut 7. Gain 12 and do a little dance.
3. Snakey B as originally envisioned 7a/+
aka what kinda fucked sequence do you call that, Lanky Twat?
Sit start 1 and 2. RH 4, LH 5. Weird move to get both hands on 8, the use 7 and 9 for all they're worth to get 12.
4. Snakey B Right Hand 6c/7a
Sit start 1 and 2. RH 4, LH 5. Get and match 8. Larn out for 13 and finish along ledge.
5. Baby Fae 6b+
Sit start 1 and 2. Gain and match 6, using 3 if you need it. LF to 3, and slap to 11.
6. Thulsa Doom 7a+
Traverse ledge to 13. Reachy move to 8. Use this and 7, 9, 10 to get victory bivvy ledge 11.
7. Low traverse ?grade
Errr, a low traverse.
Now then- problems 1, 3 and 4 are fairly independent of each other. Whilst being the natural way to do it (ie Easiest), 2 isn't that independent from 1. Just my 2p worth.
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prob 3: I remember seeing a pic of SB on SLB I think and always thought it used 8 (as opposed to SB prob 2) and for me it didn't feel too hard to get both hands on it although it seems more logical to just side it with the RH, then 9,7,12.
For me, problem 2 is to squeezed in/eliminate to make sense
hmm. You make SB RH look easy, G.
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Yes, they all look about right. Would have been nice to see lines, rather than numbered holds, as for the most part, that's what these problems are. But perhaps the numbered holds make things clearer.
The orginal plan with Snakey B was to go all the way up to join Black Mamba, which is why I didn't head out right. But then I got to what became the finish, looked up, looked down, and decided going further really wasn't necessary...
I didn't use the crimp because I didn't see it. Very funky moves with just the overlap to battle.
Though I wish it didn't exist, problem 2 can't really be eliminate as it's the easiest way up!
The low traverses are both good. 6C left to right, and 6C+ right to left.
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Some old footage of Oli on the low traverses. (At double speed)
Snakey B Low Traverses, 6C/6C+, Wilton 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlCCvAJy4n0#)
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I tried it very briefly like that, but the good foot ledge is in poor shape and crumbling. Another one in need of repair, I suppose.
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I didn't use the crimp because I didn't see it. Very funky moves with just the overlap to battle.
Went back today and did Snakey B. The crimp actually makes things harder, and I did it after a few herniating tries by (what I assume is) the original sequence. Tricksy, and I'd definitely go with 7a- harder that the 6c+ variant by a way. Also nice as it's independent. Thus:
3. Snakey B as originally envisioned 7a/+
aka what kinda fucked sequence do you call that, Lanky Twat?
Sit start 1 and 2. RH 4, LH 5. Weird move to get both hands on 8, the use 7 and 9 for all they're it's worth to get 12.
Unfortunately my incredible flab power was too much for the puny rock. Sorry R-man.
Snakey B (http://www.vimeo.com/10382427)
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Oh no! Glue?
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The bit that is left is OK, so if it stabilises it'll be OK.
The bit that came off was held on by that typical sandy stuff. I guess you could clan both surfaces and get Nik the Hold ManTM to put it back. Hopefully it'll be OK without though, but the surface may need to be sealed.
Raaaaah!
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Ah well, if there's still something there, maybe a bit of a brush, then some superglue?
Anyway, good effort getting it done. Going back for Thulsa Doom?
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I will do soon. As you can tell from teh vid it started raining as I did it.
I assume you didn't use the broken hold on Thulsa?
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No, I just went left from the undercuts and crimp. Can't remember if I used the crimp though.
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Sorry peeps, but tonight I broke hold 10. It used to be a half pad, 2/3 finger sidepull. Now it's a decent flat hold and this means that Snakey B LH is now a fair bit easier, probably soft 7a. Ooops.
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stay away from that piece of wall before you bring it all crashing down around you!
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As I'd failed on my Healey Nab project I had a wander around doing other stuff. I think these are new, but I'll wait for R-Man confirmation.
1. I did a sit start of a pillar thing between Slaptasm and Titanium Traverse. From a sitter on a good left hand sidepull and avoiding the left block, pull on and make a hard right slap then up the pillar more easily. About font 6a+.
2.. Sit start right of Andi's Mantel on the flake- not behind, just on top. Go straight to the top (I used a left heel). About 6a but "morpho".
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They sound new to me. Good stuff.
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Shit vid of above (shit) problems:
Healey New Stuff (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeEm-Q7o4Tk#ws)
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Forgot to post before, now that the project is done.
A few new things from 16/4/10.
Right of Escaping Jam is the Traverse mentioned previously. There's a nice 6a+ dyno from the big hand hold to the sloper break, feet on face only. The same problem as a mantel/rock is about 6a, both good.
I did Phat Haendel without the Love Handle pinch, at 6c. Almost did the dyno from undercuts too- 7a maybe?
And of course the last thing is now David Vetter (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14925.0.html).
New Stuff from Stronstrey (http://www.vimeo.com/10989170)
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Did a couple of new things at Egerton. No video as battery ran out. I saw a deer as well, which was an unexpected pleasure. Are deer regular in this area?
Hindsight 7B/7B+
Just right of Broken Jokes arete, start hands right of ledge crack. Traverse left along the slotted seam and pull up to jugs past the crack.
Beta - gain lh short slot, rh long slot. Lh pinch. Rf to good foothold, lf to low ledge out left. Rh drop in to short slot. Lh to good hold just above ledge. Finish easily.
Blue Mushroom Warrior 7B+
The arete right of Broken Jokes, with a crux move swinging to a high edge on the face. (The left foothold in the crack is out.) Make a few more moves to finish on a good high notch.
Beta - crux seemed to work best with pointy shoes on tiny edge rather than smearing.
Here's the old video of Broken Jokes, to show the lines. Hindsight hand traverses the footholds used on the Broken Jokes finish. Blue Mushroom Warrior is the arete to the right, with the combative fungi graffiti just about visible.
Broken Jokes, 7B, Egerton Quarry, Lancashire (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i7T6SttJ_g#ws)
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Interesting. I tried the low traverse L-R, on those crappy low edges/undercuts, and was making some progress. Last time I went Broken Jokes popped something in my wrist so I never went back. Have to go back for another recce whilst it's dry.
As an aside, I broke the decent footholds off of Bob On at Stronstrey last night but then did it with more tenuous feet:
Bob On (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJgPalJHJjk#ws)
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Yesterday I had a wander around Lower Montcliffe. I didn't have long, so I only did Maid in Stone which is a good problem. I managed to get a sequence on Dinosaur Adventure 3D- anyone else think this is harder than font 6c+? Top of if needs weeding though.
Maid In Stone (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ktgc--KrSQ#ws)
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Stop breaking holds! :spank:
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Summat at Jumbles last week.
Sit Thee Down, 7A, Jumbles (http://www.vimeo.com/11968819)
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that lass looks strong!
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Yeah, but is she dead fit?
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not wearing them scruffy clothes she ain't
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not wearing them scruffy clothes she ain't
So you prefer her without.....
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that lass looks strong!
Respect at lass.
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This evening I had a wander to Cadshaw. I did a problem right of Brian Jacques- jump start to the big jug on the arete, then up slightly left via crimps to the obvios jug. About font 6b, and quite good. I had a look at linking it from the Brian Jacques sitter, but didn't nail the crux- a weird diagonal dyno to the jug on the arete. It'll probably be in the 7a+/b ballpark, and it's a mad move so I may head back at some point.
Cadshaw FA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7MWiCg6vs4#ws)
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I've been to Jumbles a few times recently, a strange addiction I know.
I did R-Meister's Sit Thee Down, via a lanky sequence. 7a seemed fair:
Sit Thee Down 7A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVCE8rJPzW0#ws)
I've been back today and managed a nice wall problem- The Crescent of Embrace- about font 7b/+, morpho and I expect harder if you're shorter. Shit vid below, and reasons why it's shit on the Blog (http://lankytwat.blogspot.com/2010/07/crescent-of-embrace.html), if you can be arsed.
I also did The Crescent of Embrace via a French start to the high edge, about font 7a.
Crescent.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGXmsCBFv3g#ws)
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Been back to Jumbles today, managed to repeat The Crescent of Embrace (after a lot of effort, even with Font fitness) and I reckon 7b+ is more correct. Better vid:
The Crescent of Embrace (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdWvrHdo8Ms#ws)
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Adam Lincoln repeated Crescent a while back via a more sensible sequence, more likely 7bish.
Anyway, yesterday I was back at Cadshaw and managed to do the wall right of Brian Jacques directly. Around the 7a mark, but very conditions dependant. Nice dynamic moves on sloping crimps, Rivers of Blood.
Rivers of Blood 7a, Cadshaw FA (http://vimeo.com/21397203)
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Just back from Cadshaw, very chuffed to have linked the SDS for Rivers of Blood as mentioned here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14822.msg310008.html#msg310008).
Basically the wall of Brian Jacques from sitting with only face holds and no sneaky heel/ toe hooks. I think it's about 7B+, with the proviso that my sequence is pretty morpho (slap for a sloping edge at full stretch) and it's a fickle wall with regards to conditions.
As an aside, the sit start is more logical that starting as above (noone else seems to be able to reach those edges from the ground!!) so the Rivers of Blood name now refers to the sit start.
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Rivers of Blood (http://www.vimeo.com/23282657)
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Nice one! Looking forward to getting on this when I get back.
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Nice one G beast.
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I suspect you'd need a different sequence for it, Nik.
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Looks good!
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Though I say so myself, it's the best esoteric Lancashire wall climb on weird slimy red rock in a dank little quarry ever!!
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Finally managed the obvious dyno sitter to Jump Arete today, took ages to do it but felt easy on the ascent. i'll suggest 7A+ for now, but it's a mental move!!
Jump Arete SDS first ascent (http://www.vimeo.com/25305795)
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Anyone know (Andi?) what the undercut problem at Harcles is, mentioned here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=197496#x2883401)?
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Ha, what an idiot I once was. Yes, it's to the left of Blue Lamp, Robin managed eventually and gave it 7a+ I think. Some news on the news page:
http://members.multimania.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm (http://members.multimania.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/homeslb.htm)
What's Mighty Mouse G?
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Couldn't see it on the news page? I'll look in the Brick.
Mighty Mouse is the wall left of Brian Jacques on nasty razor edges. ooooh.
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It's not on the news page actually, neither is it in the brick. it's pretty obvious where it is, seem to remember it's slightly eliminate and it involves a pop to a pocket?
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Thanks, may have a look sometime. Still got SuperFly to do.
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Me too, and the project...
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Project?!?!?!? :punk:
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Robin would probably skin me alive if I told people about that traverse project :oops:
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Project? Lancashire?
Go on Andy, you can tell us... :ninja:
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There are indeed still projects in most lancs quarries. Worked the moves on a nice small roof the other day, guessing it will be around 7B/+, hopefully get it done next time I get out. Still lots to do!
How's Mighty Mouse going, Gareth?
Talking of projects, with some summer dry weather, the Pit in Wilton 1 would be a good place to go for some highballs. There is a good 6A-ish problem on the left that I never topped out - the grass cornice topout proved too much, but I think you could abseil in and dig it off. Then there are a couple of 7A/B looking lines to the right...
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Are you back in the UK now then?
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How's Mighty Mouse going, Gareth?.
Done all the moves! It's really sharp so I only get a few attempts. Not helped by the footholds having all broken last year.
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Yep, back in the UK, though not managing to climb much at the moment. Hopefully get out in the quarries in a couple of weeks.
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Quest Wilton (http://vimeo.com/27602843)
Finally got round to cleaning the topout in The Pit at Wilton 1. What was once an impassible grass cornice is now a mountable ledge. The two right hand lines both have lovely moves, easier than I thought but still great climbing with high finishes.
Also, I was surprised to discover a couple of decent problems on a wall between The Pit and Snakey B. Still lots to do at Wilton. And there are the trad routes to play on too: Innominate makes a fun highball. I imagine Veteran Cosmic Rockers might, but I hurt my ankle so it'll have to wait - guidebook says start on left then finish on right - anyone have the beta on this?
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I vaguely remember pinching the arete with my left and coming around on to the right hand side of the arete like that. That could be cobblers though because it was ages ago that I was trying this.
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Finally got round to cleaning the topout in The Pit at Wilton 1. What was once an impassible grass cornice is now a mountable ledge. The two right hand lines both have lovely moves, easier than I thought but still great climbing with high finishes.
Also, I was surprised to discover a couple of decent problems on a wall between The Pit and Snakey B. Still lots to do at Wilton. And there are the trad routes to play on too: Innominate makes a fun highball. I imagine Veteran Cosmic Rockers might, but I hurt my ankle so it'll have to wait - guidebook says start on left then finish on right - anyone have the beta on this?
Great stuff Robin, and welcome back. Good to see Wilton still giving plenty. I saw you on Tuesday walking in to W1 on my way to work and regretted the fact I had to go to work! Good to see you had a good day. Will have to get on these problems soon...
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Veteran... layback left arete at eng 6c and if you rock up right onto the face 'easy' 6b (wilton 6b that is of course)! if i remember :blink:..
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Great stuff Robin, and welcome back. Good to see Wilton still giving plenty. I saw you on Tuesday walking in to W1 on my way to work and regretted the fact I had to go to work! Good to see you had a good day. Will have to get on these problems soon...
Cheers Rick. Hopefully see you out there sometime. I think the righthand pair of Pit problems are really great, so if you have to pick, go for those first. Bring on some dry weather...
Veteran... layback left arete at eng 6c and if you rock up right onto the face 'easy' 6b (wilton 6b that is of course)! if i remember :blink:..
Guidebook suggests 6b for climbing on left and 6c finishing on right "past a series of dynamic pinch moves". Though the guidebook isn't always right...
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Are those pit problems the ones with the tricky moves into a crack or something that we tried ages ago? Rocking on to a high foothold or something wasn't it?
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Great stuff Robin, and welcome back. Good to see Wilton still giving plenty. I saw you on Tuesday walking in to W1 on my way to work and regretted the fact I had to go to work! Good to see you had a good day. Will have to get on these problems soon...
Cheers Rick. Hopefully see you out there sometime. I think the righthand pair of Pit problems are really great, so if you have to pick, go for those first. Bring on some dry weather...
Veteran... layback left arete at eng 6c and if you rock up right onto the face 'easy' 6b (wilton 6b that is of course)! if i remember :blink:..
Guidebook suggests 6b for climbing on left and 6c finishing on right "past a series of dynamic pinch moves". Though the guidebook isn't always right...
I remember something being the wrong way round for sure.
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Are those pit problems the ones with the tricky moves into a crack or something that we tried ages ago? Rocking on to a high foothold or something wasn't it?
Yeah, high rockover from the crack holds. We tried them years ago but couldn't figure out the sequence to get past the overlap.
I remember something being the wrong way round for sure.
Interesting. Think I only needed another move to hit the ledge on the left, but my pads were all in the wrong place.
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Hence why your ankle hurt? ;)
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Some more from Wilton - this time a circuit round the prow. A few new problems, some old ones and some dodgy grades. Of the new stuff: Top Hat climbs the wall between crack and arete, Yoga for Climbers climbs the slab right of the crack, and Sidewalk takes the groove right of Flywalk, without holds left of the arete.
The Wilton Prow (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxgdFkhtsBY#ws)
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Went back today. Failed on anything vaguely hard, but in general I'd agree with your grades.
Tried Yoga as a dyno fom the flatties, I'm sure it will go. Fun move.
I also found an arete right of Remembrance Corner, which isn't in the guides and I can't find mentioned online. It took ages to clean, so I'm assuming it's new. Went at about 6c with a fun last move. There's a sitter awaiting an ascent- I didn't try as I reopened my flapper and had to leave. Potentially will go on its left side too.
Wilton (http://www.vimeo.com/27904162)
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Sorry, did that arete (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4435.msg59528.html#msg59528) before with Mike Binks. Sequency, I vaguely remember. easier on the left than the right. Think we cleaned enough up to top out, but perhaps it's overgrown again. Didn't do the sitter though. There is more potential in the trench to the right, which I have recently cleaned up a little, but it usually seeps.
Beneath Deception was actually the slab without the arete - though it uses a sidepull very close to the arete, so I can see how that might have been confusing. Clamp was an eliminate, not using the big edges on the easy problem up the left, but perhaps it makes more sense as a non eliminate (I was looking at it as a seperate problem, but maybe that's daft of me).
Did you try Flywalk slab? The Yoga dyno looks huge.
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Wow, that arete was so dirty it must get drainage or something. I'll get back for the sitter at some point. V2 seems a bit harsh thoiugh!!
BD- ah, didn't watch the video closely enough. Won't make much difference to grade though.
Clamp seems more sensible as a non-eliminate, surely?
Flywalk Slab I got nowhere with. Felt nails. Yoga felt hard too, couldn't get that left foot in before the step up. The dyno is hard, mainly as it's diffiocult to get any momentum.
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V2 could be all wrong, but I don't remember a big move for the finish. I have an old video somewhere, perhaps I can dig it up.
BD is a grade or so harder without the arete (I thought arete was 5) - I think both versions are worthwhile.
Let's have Clamp as a non-eliminate then. Had my blinkers on there.
Flywalk Slab took me longer than I thought it would, though it's over after the first couple of moves. At uk6b I would have expected it to be easier than ft7A, I was guessing it might have been a grade for tall people - but maybe not if you find it hard too. Will have to get back and see if I can do it quickly now that I know the footholds.
Yoga can also be done with the same foot sequence, but left hand on the heigher gaston/crimp rather than the low razor edge.
Did you try Top Hat? Nice thin finish with just enough height to add interest.
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I'll have to head back and have another try sometime, at all of them.
How did you do the V2 Arete thingy last move? Couldn't see any other way of doing it.
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How did you do the V2 Arete thingy last move? Couldn't see any other way of doing it.
Dunno, it was about 6 years ago. Might be able to find the video, but might not.
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Over the road at Wilton 2, I did a really nice quarried arete, with some interesting positions and tenuous smears. Purple Feel, 7B. Only had my phone, so the quality isn't so good. The 2nd problem might only appeal to esotericologists, but I suspect that describes most people who boulder in the quarries.
Two from Wilton Two (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOoQU1RQqlw#)
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Headed over to W2 today. Purple Feel felt hard, although it was in the sun. The first moves I can do from the low feet, it's the next move to the slot/ crimp that got me. One to go back for, nice moves.
I did The Down Low via a different sequence- lanky keep the left heel on thingy, easier than 7a for me. I added a lower (!) left start that felt 7a to me.
The Low Down and Extension (http://www.vimeo.com/29106860)
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Nice - though does it blur the two problems somewhat - arete on left and arete on right? Will try that sequence next time.
Extension looks like it adds some good wrestling - shame this boulder isn't larger, those slick arete holds are great.
Purple Feel low feet - you mean the smears, or are you heel-hooking on the arete?
Standup is somewhere around 6C/7A maybe, move to crimp uses a high smear that for me only worked when I turned my knee to one side. After the crimp the rest is steady.
Is there such a thing as too lowball?
Maybe... A few metres left of The Down Low, before the Swine, are two more. One is a not very good tiny wall, with a one move lock off, 6C. Right of that is an undercut boulder started from the boss and solved by a dynamic mantleshelf manoeuvre - Rollover Jackpot - 7A?
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Nice - though does it blur the two problems somewhat - arete on left and arete on right? Will try that sequence next time. Extension looks like it adds some good wrestling - shame this boulder isn't larger, those slick arete holds are great.
I did think that, but it seemed slightly daft to do such a short arete on both sides, unless you avoid the heel out left. The extension is fun, all in the feet.
Purple Feel low feet - you mean the smears, or are you heel-hooking on the arete?
I kept LF on smear, RF hooking arete and slapped up twice to get the good RH arete hold- you do extra foot moves for this. I was then being a dunce about getting the slot.
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A couple of things on that block opposite The Prow. Easy, but quite pleasant and quick drying:
4 Problems on a lonely block in Wilton One (http://www.vimeo.com/29440941)
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A couple of new problems on the small roof in Wilton 3 - on the left as you enter. I dug out the top a few weeks ago, did the easier problem, but left the harder one alone after a few failed sessions on hot days. Yesterday it felt ok, so not sure about the grade.
The Starship Wilton, 7C
Sitstart at the slot, lurch to the lip and head for a finish up the slab, staying right of the good face holds to the left. The footledge is in, but if you are tall enough to keep your feet on it for the crux, the grade will be lower.
Scuffle Bucket, 7B
Sitstart at the lip of the slab and power upwards via the arete crimp.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atlYuKjbvtI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atlYuKjbvtI)
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R-man and I did a couple of new things today. The Arete left of Fingernail at about 6b. R-Man did the wall to the right, name and grade to follow. I did the wall further right at about 7a, the hard bit being the sitter.
Two New Problems at Wilton (http://vimeo.com/29725558)
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Little bubbly iron pockets? I think I might have done that one (although probably only from stand-up).
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Yes, the stand up is about 6a+. I had to dig out the footholds, so I'm confident the sitter is new.
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Fair enough. I seem to remember it felt harder than 6a+ though, so maybe I'm thinking of something completely different. Or maybe I was a punter then.
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What do you mean "then"?
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Silly youtube. Take two...
Wilton Roof (http://vimeo.com/29746432)
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Went back to W1 today. I did Pocket Wall SDS and it felt more 6c when dry. I did Robin's Wall using the evil sharp crimp and a lanky sequence, felt 7a+. I also did a new? sitter to the right via snatches between sidepulls, fun.
Wilton Repeats (http://vimeo.com/30596436)
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Good stuff. Thought it would be about 7A+ when dry. Called it Children of Arachne, in honour of all those shimmering spider webs.
Here's something new from Lower Montcliffe, on the back wall of the first bay. Maybe 6B from standing, but tricky when started from undercuts - notch in right arete off limits. Fling Somefing, 7A+.
Fling Somefing, 7A+, Lower Montcliffe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_7nnL73Pew#ws)
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The other day I climbed the arete beneath S Groove on both sides. Really good problems!
Bone Down - 7B+, start on the left.
Slipstream - 7A+, start on the right. 7B from sitting.
Hidden Wall, Wilton 2, Lancashire (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1_QYrFrccg#ws)
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Two new ones from the woods in Wilton 1. The first is a classy technical arete that GCW helped me uncover from a giant pile of dead trees. Thought it was going to be easy, but it turns out it isn't quite! Head to the very far end of Wilton to find this one. The second problem is on the Barbara Ann wall.
Sex In The Woods, 7A - The arete on its right. Slap the sidepull and finesse to a romp up slopey crimps.
Barbara's Man, 7B - Crimps and a curvy sidepull, with a crux move to gain the jug on the route Baraba Ann.
Wilton Woods Bouldering (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rl7s8zj6JnQ#ws)
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Did GCW's Crescent of Embrace today. Trickier than it looks. Nice one GCW!
For those interested - things were a tad damp in that bay of the quarry, but looked drier elsewhere.
Crescent of Embrace, 7B, Jumbles (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-4icOTD5kc#ws)
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Nice one, I think it's a good problem. Interesting that you, TanMan and myself all used different sequences.
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Top conditions at Wilton 1 today, windy though. Managed to get up one of the harder projects. Ended up being by headtorch in the dark, so here's footage of a nearly go as the actual ascent is too dark to watch.
Fingertoe, 7C - from RH sidepull LH something rubbish, climb the wall to join Children of Arachne at the good hold. No arete jug.
Failing on Fingertoe, 7C, Wilton 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx-DqjEyh7s#ws)
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Team quarry-scrub visited the newly discovered Duxon Hill Quarry (near Hoghton) and here's a new problem.
Shed Seven, 7A, Duxon Hill Quarry (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXrUI9vcQuU#ws)
Some pics of the quarry here - tradsters might be interested in the steep wall which looks like a short exciting line on big holds.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17347 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17347)
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Not sure what's going on with the UKC map. Have tried to change, but in the meantime, here's the location:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Hoghton,+Lancashire+PR5+0DR,+UK&daddr=53.726104,-2.594975&hl=en&geocode=CfkdTR_WTBQ9FXrdMwMdog_Y_ynLKdD6Z3N7SDGyQi17Tlf1UQ%3B&sll=53.726056,-2.594962&sspn=0.003371,0.008647&vpsrc=6&mra=mift&mrsp=1&sz=17&ie=UTF8&ll=53.72596,-2.594876&spn=0.003371,0.008647&t=h&z=17&iwloc=A&q=53.726104,-2.594975 (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Hoghton,+Lancashire+PR5+0DR,+UK&daddr=53.726104,-2.594975&hl=en&geocode=CfkdTR_WTBQ9FXrdMwMdog_Y_ynLKdD6Z3N7SDGyQi17Tlf1UQ%3B&sll=53.726056,-2.594962&sspn=0.003371,0.008647&vpsrc=6&mra=mift&mrsp=1&sz=17&ie=UTF8&ll=53.72596,-2.594876&spn=0.003371,0.008647&t=h&z=17&iwloc=A&q=53.726104,-2.594975)
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One from Knowle Heights, in Darwen.
Race to Base, 7B
From the break on the right, climb to the far lip and up. No back left wall for feet.
Race to Base, 7B, Knowle Heights (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yugxPv2KzO4#)
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I've done a few new things in recent weeks. These are my favourites.
Brownstones, The Bignag 7B - wall right of Groundhog, stepping off the block.
Back to Brownstones (http://vimeo.com/36938958)
Wilton 3, Graphene 7A+ - slab right of Crack and Slab
Graphene, 7A+, Wilton 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89e228ljDpY#ws)
Wilton 1, Le Puriste 7B - sitstart to L'Arete, no big holds to the left.
Le Puriste, 7B, Wilton 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iy9YoAy2634#ws)
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Good stuff,I'd wondered about the tight line right of Groundhog for a while.Keen to get on it now,looks like some fun moves!Nice to see Groundhog itself finally get the grade it deserves too,always thought 7B was a bit harsh;especially since I broke the RH starting crimp a couple of years back.
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Yeah, it's a nice couple of moves on small holds. I always thought it would be a 7C-ish left hand slap - would have been even better that way, but turns out right hand first is much easier.
Think 7B+ is probably fair for Groundhog with the broken crimp, though it's years since I last did it, so I dunno whether it's any harder than it used to be. Maybe a little.
Have you tried any of the Wilton stuff? Some great problems there.
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I must confess I've been a bit slack as regards the Wilton problems. I must sort that out,I'm only down the road,and some of the problems look damn good;I do like a bit of Lancs quarry crimping. Hell,I haven't even been to Jumbles or Cadshaw yet. And I call myself a Lancastrian.....
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That Bignag is the second worst thing I've seen on here, after the One More Inch toiletball @ Stanage. I can't believe you're claiming and naming it, there were better lines posted in the Cotswold thread....is it the arete without the arete or the corner without the corner??
No offence or anything, some of the other stuff looks genuinely pretty good, Bignag kinda detracts from that.
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Have to disagree, I've posted much worse things on here! Bignag is quite an imposing wall when you are stood underneath it - it overhangs slightly and you have to step off a block to pull on, so the hard move is at a decent height. It is the wall between arete and crack - no more eliminate than loads of stuff in the peak - Play Hard, RHS slab, T Crack etc. etc. - and unlike all of those, you can't get off route once you have pulled on. The arete is no use anyway, and the crack is usually wet, so the wall is the obvious challenge.
It would actually have been a brilliant move if I hadn't found alternative beta - as it is, it's just quite fun.
I just read the Cotswold thread for the first time. Don't be ridiculous. :lol:
EDIT - having rewatched the video with Fiendvision, I suppose it does look a bit squeezed in. It feels a lot bigger when you are on it though, and I think it's worthwhile.
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Where's this one in the rankings then Fiend? Third?
The Down Low and Extension (http://www.vimeo.com/29106860)
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What you on Adam? That thing is top of my to-do list.
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That is magnificent.
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Now that's the business! The bouldering pot noodle. In your face, king lines.
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A much better line than Careless Torque.
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A much better line than Careless Torque.
That problem basically is careless torque, just with a sit start.
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Does anyone know anything about Parbold Quarry? It's pretty close by for me, and I've just noticed there's been some bouldering done there according to the pics on UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.html?nstart=0&crag=1127). Is it worth a look?
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I'd say its worth a look. Only know a bit about the routes there and haven't been for many years, but I vaguely remember that the rock is pretty good in places. Do check it out and report back. ;)
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Yes boss!!
May have a look sometime, bit busy over the next couple of weeks though.
EDIT: Just found this old thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=2989.0).
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Seen those ukc photos before - a few straight ups from 7a-7c, and still a project or two. Got to be worth a look. Googlemap tells me I can get there in 23min, so give me a shout if you head down.
Recent ukc thread suggests someone has been giving it some attention recently - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=498356&v=1 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=498356&v=1)
Looks like you'd want the problem descriptions from the crag page, not just the photo topos.
James Jennings seems to have developed all the harder stuff a year ago, so I guess it should still be fairly clean.
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I'll text you if I am heading over there.
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It looks a lot cleaner since I last went there (top roping 18 years ago!)
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Been to Parbold today. It's OK, one wall (mentalist) is nice, and currently clean. It's a little manky in some of the slots. I personally think the grades are a little soft. Worth a visit if you're local.
Parbold and Duxon Hill Quarries (http://vimeo.com/39582414)
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Good effort checking it out. The main wall looks alright. What did you reckon to the V9? And the project?
Looking at the pics and descriptions, I think both Vesuvius problem rock round the arete lower down, then finish up the slabby side.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=187340 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=187340)
I had a look at Parbold Hill Quarry, which isn't in the Brick that I've found
Think it's in the Merseyside and Chesire guide, not the brick, dunno why.
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Oh. The description for Vesuvius BC just said use the fatty and corner of arête only. Didn't mention going round right? I have messaged James for info.
The V9 direct on Mentalist felt about 7b to me, although the way I was trying it was via lank. I think it may have been done using a crappy undercut side pull thing.
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Re-reading the descriptions Vesuvius Base Camp is what I thought I'd done. Vesuvius apparently does as you say, and round the arete to finish up the wall. In which case feet would be on the bottom block for the last bit so eliminating the back wall like I did would seem silly? :shrug:
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Hmm. Looks to me like VBC is just an eliminate on V, also finishing round the arete.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=170084&lgn=9810 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=170084&lgn=9810)
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Not sure. I wonder if Vesuvius stays lower? I just did what seemed logical at the time.
Mentalist wall is better for independant lines.
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Think it's in the Merseyside and Chesire guide,
It is, but no bouldering, just routes from what I remember, will check later...
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Did a few things on the pinnacle at Lester Mill. Easier stuff probably done before. Approach: follow the main path to the left end of the quarry, then turn uphill on a steep track. The pinnacle is on the left. Two pads recommended.
Rapunzel, 7B, Lester Mill (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUF_z7wqbkI#ws)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/7006147252_175869a807_c.jpg)
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Just to keep everything in one place...New topo and a little video for Crag Stones in the Forest of Bowland. Thread here - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20114.msg362704.html#msg362704 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20114.msg362704.html#msg362704)
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Did a good trav at the Cadshaw River blocks. These are bone dry right now, and stay cool due to the nearby water and perma-shade. A good place to escape the heat. Catches a breeze so not particularly midgey either.
Twist and Shout, 7A+, Cadshaw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRgm2dL2e2A#ws)
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Looks interesting.
Did you try Rivers of Blood sitter? Make sure you match the face crimps!!
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No, had limited time, but it's on my list. Why match the face crimps - is it eliminate? Thought it was just the wall without the arete. Looking at how stretched you are in your vid, I suspect I might need to do some jumping. Guess I'll have to try it and see...
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Yes, it's utterly full stretch for me. I found after that you can get the crimp I use for the left hand with your right and dyno to get the good edge with your left. Still hard though. My project link of RoB sitter into Jump arete will stop any of those shenanagins!!
It's only eliminate in that no arete holds are in. I'd be interested in your thoughts on grade, i found it hard.
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Cleaned up a nice collection of problems in the mighty Hoghton yesterday. Good place to escape the sun. If anyone fancies a bash, there are two weeks left till access is closed for the year. Still the odd line left to do, and if any frankenjura fiends are reading, there's a possible rising traverse on drilled monos that will be super hard. Anyway, here are a few of the problems...
Hoghton Bouldering (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8pUg9p8es8#ws)
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Some of those look pretty good lines!
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Weird that no one has bothered before (apart from some easier stuff on the lower tier). Though I have to admit, the trad there does look amazing. I read somewhere that Hoghton is the highest grit crag in the country. Impressive place, and good effort to people for cleaning it up despite restrictive access periods.
I like this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=179295&lgn=9810 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=179295&lgn=9810)
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Here's a small venue I discovered on googlemaps, about 30 problems, mainly sitters, in a scenic location next to Higher Chelburn (https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=53.662264,+-2.069588&aq=&sll=52.8382,-2.327815&sspn=8.059533,20.258789&vpsrc=0&t=h&ie=UTF8&z=15&iwloc=A) reservoir. (Just down the road from Summit Quarry, between Todmorden and Littleborough).
Higher Chelburn (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaLEfRaTvxA#ws)
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A few from Healey Nab. Some old, some new.
Healey Nab Bouldering (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrBwLv5NQG4#ws)
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Nice sequence on that last problem! The 7C looks ace. Is Encore new? That looks good too.
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Yep, Encore's new. Decent circuit at the Nab. Still a couple of projects too.
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Interestingly, that's how I did Scrunch rather than your original method.
Encore I was trying with a left heel on the rail and rocking up statically. Why didn't I just jump?!??
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My first couple of projects & my first vid to boot. Some link ups (as suggested on the topo) completed and given a name, a new straight up and the old classic of the crag.
Lancashire Bouldering - Ashworth Moor on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49522650)
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Nice one! I was there recently and saw some chalk on the holds. Well done on the linkups.
On Temple of the Tooth, are you going to the crack hold, rather than up the arete as per Rock This Country?
What did you reckon to Whodunnit? I did it again and thought the grade was too big - how hard did it feel to you? There's also a good move going from the starting Whodunnit sloper to the high crimp. I did problem 6 in the topo too, not much of a line, but something else to play on.
There are some nice problems on the other side of the valley as well - I'd never really given them much time before, but it's not a bad little circuit, if you don't mind doing battle with a bit of heather and a few slopey landings. There were a couple of highballs on the right-most block that I was too scared to do without more pads and spotters. Tried any of these? The ones up the centre look tough.
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Cheers (r-)man, had fun working the linkups, good moves & always left me with a reason to go back.
On Temple of the Tooth you're right, I am using the crack hold rather than the arete, the general idea was
Armed to the Teeth & Rock this Country = Temple of the Tooth
Armed to the Teeth & Oli's Problem = A Better Tomorrow
WhoDunnit was quite satisfying as I'd been close a couple of times before and once I committed it sent quite nicely, I would agree though it felt light for the grade, closer to a 7a me thinks. But i gotta try the sloper to good crimp! - sounds hard.
The only other thing I'm trying up there at the mo is a one mover (aka GhettoGun). Start as you would Oli's problem, hands on downward sloping jug, high right foot on the nice point just left of the large right facing gaston, then instead of throwing yourself at the crimp with your right hand ( as in Oli's problem) go up with the left to a small right facing gaston (part of a small triangular shaped relief on the face) maybe a little higher & right of the crack hold used on Rock this Country, after you latch that and bring the crimp I imagine you'd reach for the top jug ( as in Oli's problem) with your right to finish. Only a one mover but I like the move, feels good as you latch & try to generate the tension between your hand and right foot to keep you on.
Regarding the other side I haven't had a look yet, but by the sounds of it it's worth a shout, so it's on the list, if I work anything of merit I'll post it : )
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Lee Quarry additions.
Lee Quarry (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbS1vk3rASI#ws)
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Troy Quarry additions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJH8rIlZV4s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJH8rIlZV4s#ws)
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A new one from Stronstrey. I think this one is really good. Great holds and quite technical.
Hellebore on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54725358)
The left arete is also good at around 6C+ from sitting, or 7A+ without the big hole (used to be a crimp there but it came out when I wiggled it), and the wall to the left is a pleasant 6Bish sitter.
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Should've had another visit, Nik!!
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Blimey, competition for a quarry project! It's only taken 7 years since I first had a go... ;) What sequence were you and Nik trying? Looked like there were a couple of cleaned holds on the rib, though I'm glad it goes straight up as it keeps you over the good landing.
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We were going a little further right, matching that sloper and snatching to a sidepull edge out right, then a dyno to the "break". If my memory serves, that is- Nik?
We left it for a bit when a vital large foothold fell off, making our sequence about 8a.
EDIT: basically we did what you do up to 0:25 then dropped down to match the sloper by using a decent right foothold low down.
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Interesting. I haven't tried but I did wonder if a right hand version might just be possible, from a sitter using the RH start hold of Hellebore for LH. If it's possible, this would probably lead into your finishing sequence.
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What G says sounds right. We went further right. Nice problem, as is Mirth of Ducks and David Vetter. Couple of routes to go there yet as well...
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At the weekend my brother and I went to Stronstrey Quarry armed with GCW's guide and had a potter around. Quite a lot of things were pretty damp so we ended up climbing an arete on the left at the entrance to the main quarry. It is just up the hill from Wurzel Gummidge (I think). It is fairly highball. It think it is possibly Reunion Wilderness on its left. It says it can be climbed on its right as well at (3+) however if you eliminate the big jug at the bottom of the scoop out right. It is significantly harder and leads to some lovely delicate layback climbing quite high above a slopey landing (around 6c ish). Just wondering if anyone else has tried it, since it would make a lovely addition to the crag. Cheers Jamie
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Reunion Winderness (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=110963) climbs the left side, the right side has been claimed as Ellie at HS 4a, which I presume wasn't eliminate.
How did you get along with the guide/ Stronstrey? Has David Vetter returned to its original green state yet? I think there's a nice circuit up there now. Repeats and grade comments welcome!!
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Not too bad thanks. Took us a wee while to orientate ourselves, since we only had the low res version of the guide and the printer hadn't helped matters. Nice little venue. A few things for us to have a go at when we go back.
David Vetter was looking pretty green and wet, but looks like a great line. We also scoped out the mirth of ducks, and a few pull ons but it was a bit damp and seems pretty hard. One other thing we spotted was the massive blank slab in the middle of the left hand side of the quarry. The landing has be levelled (patio-ed) quite a bit, but that looks amazing and hard.
You're probably right about Ellie. HS 4a with the jug would be about right. Without the jug though it is a really class problem. Best arete I've climbed in awhile, doesn't feel too eliminate either.
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Good effort on the arete. That's a nice fast drying buttress, shame it's not got more lines on it.
The slab goes at 6Cish up decent edges on its left, without the block on the left. I think I have a sequence for the middle, but I haven't been back due to a month of crap weather. Up the right arete would probably be good, but getting pretty highball.
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Yeah good little venue, shame it was pretty damp. Thanks for the knowledge r-man and gcw. Waddage awarded.
I'll have a look at the slab next time i'm up there (and its dry!).
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Topo link. (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/images/b/b1/Stronstrey_Bouldering_Topo_04.0.pdf) May be better quality?
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The pictures on page 7 and 9 are the same.
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Ah, hadn't niticed. This must be the mid-mid revision. I'll have to search my hard drive at home at some point.
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Turns out I climbed a new one at Cow's Mouth. Nyan Cat, 7A.
Bruce Goodwin tells me this might have been bolted in the 60's and tried in the 70's when the E3 Three Little Piggies (crack to the right) was climbed, but then abandoned as it was a bit too hard. The bolt has long since rusted to a stump, but the climb is well worth doing as a highball/solo. It's a classy leaning crimp path, and fairly safe with the current snow drift. When the snow goes, I imagine the top might be a bit scarier.
Nyan Cat, 7A, Cow's Mouth (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm4Pzmy_TMg#ws)
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That looks good :2thumbsup:
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Nice one R-Man - that looks crimpytastic!
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Cheers. Get down there before the snow goes!
Here's one from Cadshaw, the main line at the riverblocks - stumped me last time I tried, but some new beta made it work. Grade could be 7B or 7C, the start is on big angular holds and feels a bit like climbing indoor volumes, but I'll wait and see what repeaters think.
Copernicus - 7C
Sitstart the central block from hands clamped on the aretes.
Copernicus, 7C, Cadshaw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djUiW-EgdvY#ws)
There is also a nasty crimp project going up the right arete, if anyone feels really gnarly. And one up the centre for someone both gnarly and tall.
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Isn't that just a bad sequence for the crack? ;)
That arete project is nasty.
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Isn't that just a bad sequence for the crack? ;)
I assume you're joking, but in case you can't quite see from the video - the block on the left is out. I think "climb this rock, not the other one" is fair enough. ;)
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I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way. Still need to get back on my Red Wall link up/ arete project/ Mighty Mouse......
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There's also potential for a few problems on the wall left of the riverblocks. I cleaned off most of the vegetation from the finishing ledge - could do with a bit more effort, and then the wall itself needs a good once over with a stiff brush. Probably easy stuff to the left and a couple of hard problems on the right.
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I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way.
You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)
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And the curving overlap and the direct through it on l'autre mur rouge across the river. Would certainly go, I only tried it briefly a year or two back.
I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way.
You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)
Yeah I know. 2013 is the year of POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe.
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Just seen this set on Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/b3tarev3/6860234100/#in/set-72157629643521479). Interesting.
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And the curving overlap and the direct through it on l'autre mur rouge across the river. Would certainly go, I only tried it briefly a year or two back.
I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way.
You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)
Yeah I know. 2013 is the year of POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Maybe.
:lol:
L'autre mur is that what we were looking at last year?
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Whoa, abandoned mine bouldering!
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Just seen this set on Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/b3tarev3/6860234100/#in/set-72157629643521479). Interesting.
Coel :blink: I assume thats pretty much in the stream by the problems robins just done... looks like it from memory.. Gives me summit to do with the nephews when they next come to stay!!
There's loads of caves/mines on the side of winter hill too, just hard to find and semi blocked up. There's a website somewhere by Fred Dibner from the 80s... when they used to go exploring in them.
Wonder if they dry up in summer :-\ Can have our own Pilgramages then :whistle:
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L'autre mur is that what we were looking at last year?
Yes, good line.
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Just seen this set on Flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/b3tarev3/6860234100/#in/set-72157629643521479). Interesting.
Coel :blink: I assume thats pretty much in the stream by the problems robins just done...
Yeah, that's just 50m downstream from the riverblocks.
There's also an opening at the base of the main quarry, possibly at the bottom of the route Salamander (hazy memory, this is from years ago). I took a few flash photos to try and work out what was down there and it looked like a big space, but I know nothing about caving, so didn't risk crawling in.
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Parbold.... Wasn't sure where to put this but thought here was as good as anywhere!
Went here for the first time last night and have to say we had a great time! Did everything on the main wall between us and had a chat about the grades... We thought the Fundamentalist and Mentalist Direct were thoroughly excellent and well worth the trip alone!
Consensus on the grades for what it's worth (I don't climb three 7a's in a session, ever);
Vesuvius - 6b+
Vesuvius Base Camp - 6b
Fundamentalist LH - 6b+
Fundamentalist - 6c
Mentalist Direct - 7b/+
I also cleaned a new line on the right wall which got sent by Alec on the night which we felt was worth mentioning as well. No name or grade yet (prob >7a) but worth doing by all accounts. Some shady phone photos of Alec on the FA...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8546/8703446741_e61a82dd18_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8703446741/)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8133/8704569934_2c8dd14f6b_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8704569934/)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8412/8704570680_be6cd26be9_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatneck/8704570680/)
Pretty cool moves and also scope for dynos on that wall as well. The project right of Mentalist Direct got looked at but noone got on it, think it'll be h.a.r.d.
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Nice one! Keen to hear name and grade for the new thing. Does it top out, or stop at a jug?
I agree about grades. It's quite possible they have all cleaned up a lot since the FA. I thought the Fundamentalist problems were more like low 6's, but good fun. Mentalist Direct caused me problems, so I wasn't sure if it was hard or just tricky. Perhaps 7B+ is fair. Did you dyno from low, or crossover using the poor sidepull?
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Alec reckoned around 7a when I pressed him. As for the name, Parboiled should do it! It doesn't top out but with a bit of cleaning (and plenty of pads) I reckon it would and would be pretty good, if spicy...
Mentalist Direct went with a big move with the left hand ignoring the sidepull. Alec found putting his left foot out wide and dropping his knee a bit the key...
I'm quite psyched to return but don't think anyone else is!!
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Good stuff. Parbold might actually be a decent place to escape the heat in summer, providing the midges don't settle in. The new problem looks decent.
Sounds like a massive move on Mentalist Direct! I considered it as a dyno, but didn't see it as a foot on move! I did it like this:
Mentalist Direct, 7C, Parbold (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3sZu7B0ToQ#ws)
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I ignored the sidepull and was trying to dyno/ lank it. No surprise there then.
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Owen and Jay (both 6ft4) didn't get it on the night but definitely thought it would go as a dyno. I think Alec is taller than he looks but his foot definitely came off as he hit the bottom groove bit of the hold before sorting his feet out and making a strenuous match... Should have got a vid...
Midges were there in force last week, reckon it would be midge hell later in the year as I don't reckon it gets much breeze in there?!
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Lancashire Lanks Series re-edit, part one:
Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 01 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/67633538)
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Part 2....
Lancashire Lanks Series - Part 02 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/68125364)
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Just a heads up that I broke the low RF foothold on Brian Jacques recently. Woops! It was wobbling and I thought maybe it was just a rock, so I tugged at it and it snapped. The small bit left over was a flat crumbly edge - and the whole foothold turned out to be not actually attached to anything. So I've pulled away the crumbly bits and tidied it up.
I did Brian Jacques again, and the first move is a little harder, but I'm not sure it affects the grade. There's a small edge just left of the crack that works for the RF. You'll need decent edges on your shoes though.
Jump arete should still be fine, it's not too hard to get into a jumping position with right toe in the big crack foothold.
Rivers Of Blood now isn't possible by GCW's sequence. Sorry GCW! (But hey, at least you've already done it.) I had a few goes before skin and midges stopped play, and I'm pretty sure it's still possible without that foothold. Good problem.
Seems like that wall has been getting some attention recently. Lots of chalk. And despite the tree loss, it still stays dry in the rain.
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Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck!
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Did you try Rivers of Blood? I was tempted to give it 7c anyway because it was really hard. I guess now I can give it 8a+....
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Yes, I tried it briefly. Like I said, I think it's still doable. Very rough guess - 7C/7C+, but I could be wrong.
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I feel a re-match coming on.......
I thought RoB 7b+/7c. Linking into Jump Arête felt 7c/7c+. So maybe now everything is a tad more tricky!
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Get that woody built!
By the way, I don't think the foothold loss will have changed RoB for me, ie. my grade guess is not a guess at difficulty change, just a guess at difficulty. Good effort climbing it! I'd be keen to have a proper session on it when the midges have gone away. Cleaned up a few other projects at Cadshaw too, so there should be plenty to do when it comes into season.
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I think it's rather morpho.
I'd be keen to get on Rick's Arête, the groove over the river and the river block stuff.
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Went down very briefly yesterday, midges were hell.
Brian Jacques first move feels significantly harder than it was I'd say... :shrug:
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Where do you put your feet now?
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Where do you put your feet now?
Instead of pulling up straight to the RH sidepull with LF in the crack, I used a tiny crimp out left for the RF and pasted LF on the wall, sort of swinging right to the same sidepull. Feels nails, but that could just be me.
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Is that the little dink I use for my left foot on RoB and Jump Arete? Tiny thing that!
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Is that the little dink I use for my left foot on RoB and Jump Arete? Tiny thing that!
yes, your starting LF.
Annoyingly it would be better if it were a little further left, pulling up on the LH is a bitch, and you're sort of already facing left, which makes the whole sequence moving right a bit cacky. Ah well...
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Stronstrey bouldering:
http://vimeo.com/69459115 (http://vimeo.com/69459115)
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Nice. I like Stronstrey. Did you do TREEEOH recently, or is this all old footage?
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psyched. :2thumbsup:
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It's all old stuff I'm afraid.
I like Stronstrey too, has a really nice feel about it.
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It's all old stuff I'm afraid.
I like Stronstrey too, has a really nice feel about it.
+1
What's the landing like on Mirth of the Ducks Gareth?
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It slopes downwards from the rock a little, making the problem feel higher than it is. I found that one folded pad for the dip + one pad on top worked well.
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It slopes downwards from the rock a little, making the problem feel higher than it is. I found that one folded pad for the dip + one pad on top worked well.
Thanks Robin
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Yes, it's an OK landing with a couple of pads but it feels oddly high!
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Was at Cadshaw again today and find Brian Jacques hard, though the broken foothold isn't the issue for me. I am finding it really tricky once you have the arete and the RH crimp to pull up without swinging off and then to lock the RH to take left hand off the Arete and reach up to the next hold. I know Gareth ignores the crimps and goes straight for the higher hold with RH but i can't reach that far. Any ideas? Don't reckon the fact it was the hottest day of the year helps.
Next i went up towards the River blocks because i knew it would be cooler and also to have a look at a line i had spotted last time i was there. It's a block actually in the river just below the other river blocks and has a lovely looking overhanging arete. It looks to me like someone had piled rocks up so it's dry which makes me think its been climbed before. I was having a great time trying it, but it needs a good old clean because it's absolutely filthy. I'll go back next time with a proper brush and have a go, but it felt pretty nice. Sorry i didn't take a picture. Does anyone know what i mean?
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Was at Cadshaw again today and find Brian Jacques hard, though the broken foothold isn't the issue for me. I am finding it really tricky once you have the arete and the RH crimp to pull up without swinging off and then to lock the RH to take left hand off the Arete and reach up to the next hold. I know Gareth ignores the crimps and goes straight for the higher hold with RH but i can't reach that far. Any ideas? Don't reckon the fact it was the hottest day of the year helps.
Next i went up towards the River blocks because i knew it would be cooler and also to have a look at a line i had spotted last time i was there. It's a block actually in the river just below the other river blocks and has a lovely looking overhanging arete. It looks to me like someone had piled rocks up so it's dry which makes me think its been climbed before. I was having a great time trying it, but it needs a good old clean because it's absolutely filthy. I'll go back next time with a proper brush and have a go, but it felt pretty nice. Sorry i didn't take a picture. Does anyone know what i mean?
No midges? I've been staying away because they are usually awful in summer. Good effort if you just ignored them - I looked like I had measles when I went a few weeks ago.
Anyway, on BJ I lock off for the sloper just right of the arete - have you tried that? You can probably do it fairly dynamically, it's quite a good hold. Then a high foot and rockover.
Brian Jacques, ft 7a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCG8t_V6p4U#)
As for the river boulder, I've been there a few times this year, cleaning it up and making a dry landing. I pulled a giant loose flake off once which was quite exciting - really wouldn't have been fun if that had landed on you. I'm sure it could use some more cleaning. So no, not been climbed, haven't actually tried it yet, but go for it, I'd be psyched to hear it's been done.
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I have also done Brian Jacques via Robin's sequence but it felt tough at the grade for me. Really bone that right hand edge!!
Did you try Rivers of Blood or Jump Arete?
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Thanks again guys. Reckon if i can't climb Brian Jacques i don't have a shot at the others. It was very warm so i couldn't get much out of the crimp. The river block problem looked pretty good. I'm not exactly sure what to so, but i was avoiding holds because they were dirty so i'll try give it a proper clean and get back to you. Talking of first assents, i'm going up to the very north west of scotland for some adventure bouldering next week. So the midges at Cadshaw were pathetic. Just bath in joungle formula, thats the secret. That being said, my brother and i tried the Wiltons the other week and it was so bad we had a strop and little girl argument. :)
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Went to Cadshaw again today and just climbed 2 little problems on a small pyramid shaped block just before the main blocks at the river blocks. I cleaned away a bunch of moss and vegetation and reckon they're pretty nice. Left hand arete is very easy but nice climbing. The right hand is harder because there is nothing for your feet. Had to just pull up on the slopey arete to put right heel straight on, then could move up the arete and eventually catch the left hand arete to top out. Nice little problems made more tricky by damp mud still on the blocks. The main project i wanted to do is below this again in the stream but the mud that was there last time was now damp after the rain. I had a good old clean up of it tho so hopefully it will be ready for a climb soon. I'll post a video when/if i do it and add it to the ones i climbed today.
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Good stuff! There will be a decent collection of problems around the river when they all get cleaned up.
Is this the hanging block in the river bank, left of the project steep arete? Or something else?
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It's something else, it's actually in the river. I'll post the video when i do the problem and if i don't do it soon i'll post a picture.
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Here is a very short video of 2 new little problems at Cadshaw River blocks. Quite fun really.
Cadshaw Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/71171527)
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Gardinrm and I cleaned up the bigger river boulder today - all the problems are very good, and worth checking out if you get a south easterly breeze, which seems to keep the midges away.
7B - sitstart the steep wall and arete, starting RH on the incut hold.
6B - sitstart the slanting ramp and climb up and left.
6C - sitstart the slanting ramp and climb up the right arete.
Nice vid Rob. Like you said, it's good to have a few easier ones. I think there will be around 20 problems in this little area when everything is cleaned up and the projects are climbed.
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Here is a very short video of 2 new little problems at Cadshaw River blocks. Quite fun really.
Cadshaw Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/71171527)
(http://gifsforum.com/images/image/facepalm/grand/facepalm_29.jpg)
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I guess you didn't enjoy it Dylan.
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Not surprising really. He prefers bananas.
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I did a nice steep line recently. Only thing is, I am a bit worried that there is a large flake a little higher up the cliff of dubious stability. Perhaps it's fine, but lots of it is detached from the main wall. You certainly wouldn't want it falling on you, and I don't want to promote this area if there's a chance that can happen.
Is there anyone near Bacup (or keen for a decent fingery wall near Bacup) who'd like to help me inspect/remove the rock? I'm not too good at all that rope stuff. And I suspect you'd need to hammer in a stake to abseil off. Here's a vid of the problem, it's about 7B+ - there are also a couple of easier lines and a project coming straight out which will likely be harder.
Scarlet Crimpernel, 7B+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZe9xNgCWls#ws)
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Whilst checking details for the bouldering guidebook, I've exchanged a few emails with John Gaskins - it turns out that about 8 years ago he did a couple of problems that he never reported.
One of these is the prow at Lower Montcliffe - an impressive hghball LGP. He's called it Information Highway Revisited, and offered 7C+ as the grade. Fairly big news for Lancashire, just a surprise it wasn't harder!
In Lester Mill he also did the highball arete project in the upper bay - Laissez Faire Stare 7A.
And he's come up with a name for his 8B slab in Stanworth - Endless Nameless.
(There will be more about these in the guidebook - John took the time to do a short Q&A about his exploits in the area.)
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Whilst checking details for the bouldering guidebook, I've exchanged a few emails with John Gaskins - it turns out that about 8 years ago he did a couple of problems that he never reported.
One of these is the prow at Lower Montcliffe - an impressive hghball LGP. He's called it Information Highway Revisited, and offered 7C+ as the grade. Fairly big news for Lancashire, just a surprise it wasn't harder!
whaaaaatt? Is this the famous wave prow thing in the main quarry?? :bow: :bow: We are not worthy Lord G!
How can you tease us with this, it's not fair!!!
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Yep, that's the prow!
I don't think it took him long at all. I had a go a couple of months ago - big undercuts to a couple of hard moves on small crimpy holds (I think this is the crux, I couldn't do it), then it looks like it might be a bit easier once you get onto the slabbier section. Very nice line, and the landing is a bit slopey but not too bad with a few pads.
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How is the guide book coming along robin?
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Yep, that's the prow!
I don't think it took him long at all. I had a go a couple of months ago - big undercuts to a couple of hard moves on small crimpy holds (I think this is the crux, I couldn't do it), then it looks like it might be a bit easier once you get onto the slabbier section. Very nice line, and the landing is a bit slopey but not too bad with a few pads.
Do you know if he taped it? Would be awesome to see that!
It looked impossible, and the landing's shit so great to see it's been done! :bow: :beer2: :clap2: :great:
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Do you know if he taped it? Would be awesome to see that!
It looked impossible, and the landing's shit so great to see it's been done! :bow: :beer2: :clap2: :great:
Doubt he taped it, sadly. I don't think was a big deal for him. I know he top roped it to try the moves, then did it pretty quickly.
How is the guide book coming along robin?
Nearing the finish! Should be out early next year, and available to pre-order this week on lancashirebouldering.com (http://www.lancashirebouldering.com)
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nice give me a shout if you want any punter grades checking this weekend.
At a bit of a loose end and want to try some where new (which covers pretty much all of lancashire)
-edit- Just seen I am pictured in the sample pages too :)
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sample pages look great Robin - have you considered using a font other than Times for the text though? I always thing Times looks great on its own (on a blank page etc..) but gets a bit fussy when its used in boxes and on a page with lots of other info etc..?
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nice give me a shout if you want any punter grades checking this weekend.
At a bit of a loose end and want to try some where new (which covers pretty much all of lancashire)
-edit- Just seen I am pictured in the sample pages too :)
I'll be in touch if the weather is good! Yes, I got some good shots of you and James at Cow's Mouth and Nick of Pendle.
sample pages look great Robin - have you considered using a font other than Times for the text though? I always thing Times looks great on its own (on a blank page etc..) but gets a bit fussy when its used in boxes and on a page with lots of other info etc..?
It's Minion Pro, but I made the sample pages some time ago and I've since changed the problem names to a sans-serif font (thanks for that tip Grimer!) which makes everything much easier to read.
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I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way.
You've been using that excuse for a year now... ;)
Two years now.......
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Two new problems on the Red Wall at Cadshaw. Great conditions today.
Firstly, I did a low level traverse from the arête of Brian Jacques rightwards to finish just right of Hawkeye at the obvious jug. Foot ledges were in today, I think it'd be very very hard without.
Secondly, a really fun dyno from the aforementioned jug to the jug ledge above. 6b+ or so, but it goes out to the jug making it a bit harder to catch.
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Shit video.
http://youtu.be/DWvmdhjsjKU (http://youtu.be/DWvmdhjsjKU)
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Good to see you back on the FA's!
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Plenty more to do.....
EDIT: I mentioned names in the blog (http://lankytwat.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/cadshaw.html). Rakkety Tam for the dyno, Outcast for the traverse.
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Lots!
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(Slightly) better video:
Cadshaw and Baby Denham on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/89839986)
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Hurray for quarried esoterica! Dyno looks satisfying. I see some chalk on Hawkeye, did you try it with the new beta?
By the way, I walked past Red Wall on Saturday morning. All bone dry. That intermediate arete hold on Outcast is great - I wonder if you could do a sitter using it for the right hand?
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Briefly tried it, the foot is a bit high for me.
That arête pinch is nice.
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You were going off it with right foot before though? Does left foot feel too awkward?
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Yeah. Skin was thin though. I'll try again.
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Added a new sit start to my own Hypno-Toad today. Same rules, pillar holds only and no touching anything in or past the cracks. Very morpho, but about 7A.
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Effort lad. :2thumbsup:
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Cheers. The hard bit is still the same but it makes it a bit trickier to set up. Pretty long for two moves! Should mention it's Denham Quarry. Got a vid which I'll post at some point.
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Short video of the four things I did on Monday, plus some older stuff. Hypno-Toad sitter needs a repeat to give a better idea of grade, as you can see it's a funny one to grade.
Denham Quarry Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/93422745)
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Looks great! Good tunes also...
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Nice one. Vive La Denham!
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is anyone around for lancs action sunday?
I fancy some quarried grit
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I'm not around on Sunday, but I bet there will be a gang at Ousel's nest. Try the Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/1463772453837342/?ref=ts&fref=ts (https://www.facebook.com/events/1463772453837342/?ref=ts&fref=ts)
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The wild, wild moors: Blackstone Edge on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/93494035)
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This is a nice video. Have never been up there, definitely seems to warrant a visit. Is this all going to be in Robin's guide?
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Yup, will be. Plus several other previously undocumented moorland grit crags. Loads to go at in that area.
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How was le Nest d'Ousel?
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Amazing turn out, despite the rain. Lots of routes cleaned and rocks moved. Some routes done and some bouldering before the weather finally crapped out. Live music too!
People seemed keen to make it an annual event, and a date has already been set for 5 may 2015. :)
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Amazing turn out, despite the rain. Lots of routes cleaned and rocks moved. Some routes done and some bouldering before the weather finally crapped out. Live music too!
People seemed keen to make it an annual event, and a date has already been set for 5 may 2015. :)
I concur Robin, great turn out and has got me psyched to try some of the routes!
Think it's the 9th May next year....
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There must be a few new boulder problems before the new guide comes out..........
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Woops, yes 9 May.
There is potential for some more bouldering, but no space to add anything else in the ousels chapter. I think ousels will be wet for a while now - I looked in today and after a week of rain the seepage has finally set in. Need another dry spell before it's climbable again I think.
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I was wrong. Popped in yesterday and things are drying out pretty fast. Think it will be all dry be the end of the week.
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Nice, may have a look on Monday (if I'm OK after the Lakeland 50 recce).
Is there a topo?
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No, but I'll send you some details. Here's a little pic from Saturday.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/t1.0-9/10177322_788637381148053_8243720023710248889_n.jpg)
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New one from Stronstrey tonight. Great conditions.
"http://vimeo.com/104669479""http://vimeo.com/user1109686">Rick Ginns</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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new route at stony edge put up yesterday roughly recorded and chucked together
FA at stony Name TBC on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105528119)
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Nice one. I like Andy's suggestion of Bargle Blaster. Lets call it that. 7A+? And downgrade Argle Bargle to 7A.
Grit Award seems an appropriate name for the bizarre caving mantel up the right arete. 7A+ maybe.
Oli's mantel problem is It Would Be Who Of You 7A+/7B. Still amazed he flashed that. Have you got a screenshot of this one Luke? Definitely one for mantel fans to get on - a proper footless tricep tester.
Good day yesterday, nice to get a team out on the crag, haven't done that before.
Also worth adding this here...
Important access note - the footpath described in the forthcoming guidebook has been deviated. From the first iron gate of calf lee house, head up the hill and continue onto a marked footpath instead of following the road round the bend. This footpath leads to a gate by a house - use the stile next to it and continue up the hill as described in the guidebook. DO NOT CLIMB OVER ANY STONE WALLS OR GATES. At no point is this necessary and the farmer has rebuilt his wall several times. This is probably walkers not climbers as not many climbers know about Stony Edge, but it's worth saying anyway.
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Will stick up a screenshot later.
As for the approach
There is a sign on the fence on the left as the road turns sharply right which shows the new footpath route. According to the sign the new footpath has been in place since may.
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Yep, just unlucky I hadn't visited since it changed or I could have fixed the guidebook description. Too late now, but as you say it is pretty obvious.
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sorry for the delay here is the screenshot
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/gruber_HTAFC/Mantel7.png)
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sorry for the delay here is the screenshot
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s65/gruber_HTAFC/Mantel7.png)
:great: Looks so easy! Couldn't even get started.
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R-man's new problem at Weasel Quarry, Cadshaw - Madferret 7B
Standing start is slightly easier at 7A+
Madferret 7B, Weasel quarry, Cadshaw, Lancashire on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/109404640)
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Nice. Instantly putting his own guidebook out of date.
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Dagnabbit, they were one yo list to go back to! Nice to see that line get done though.
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Dagnabbit, they were one yo list to go back to! Nice to see that line get done though.
There's a few more lines to go back for G, if youi're back in the game that is!!
The climbing there seems to be the sort that looks easy until you actually get on it...
Maybe stays dry, so potential winter venue but the cracks probably seep.
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Nice. Instantly putting his own guidebook out of date.
That happened some time ago, shortly after it went to the printers! But I have tried to plan for this to an extent. The guidebook lists lots of projects that I have spotted over the years - this one is problem 22, page 135.
And on the website there is a new problems page where people can easily check if anything new has been done at any venue - crags are listed alphabetically so it's fairly simple to have a quick skim through before you go somewhere.
http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/ (http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/projects/)
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UKC just published my article about Lancs bouldering. I know some of you don't check UKC, but maybe this will be of interest... http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6779 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6779)
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A couple of new esoteric problems from Knowle Heights yesterday. Good moves, or so I'm told since I couldn't do them. Can't embed for some reason (stupidity, I expect).
The Erotic Fiction of Robyn Moolah, 7a. FA Nik Jennings
https://youtu.be/o8bvEOkk7kA
7a+ from R-man
https://youtu.be/u1lI4hHrtqc
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Holy fucking shit hole
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Holy fucking shit hole
So it appears.
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What in the name of fuck?
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Nice moves R-man. Retro feel to the venue. Goes beyond esoteric.
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Haha, what a way to resurrect the thread! The graffiti is a bit of an eyesore, but considering it's so close to Darwen it's actually quite pleasant. A decent set of problems in a sunny little hollow.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UQpE1_II8AY
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I wonder who HASH Lee is?
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The graffiti in the 2nd clip does look a bit like the Dark Throne logo.
Not sure that compensates for pico-eliminates that don't top out tho.
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Can't be bothered to garden the 5m of easy rock above. First one isn't eliminate. Second one is.
Despite having stared at so much of their oeuvre, I am not much wiser about the graffiti makers and their lives.
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The graffiti in the 2nd clip does look a bit like the Dark Throne logo.
Not sure that compensates for pico-eliminates that don't top out tho.
Oddly, I had the DarkThrone shirt on whilst filming. Spooky.
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I wonder who HASH Lee is?
Is that your tag Dense? ;)
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considering it's so close to Darwen it's actually quite pleasant.
So it's the proximity to Darwen that makes it shit?
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That makes sense, think of the world-class bouldering venues which are miles away from Darwen, like Bishop, Rocklands, Castle Hill...
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I've cancelled my trip to Magic Wood to free up the space to visit this vision of beauty..
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That makes sense, think of the world-class bouldering venues which are miles away from Darwen, like Bishop, Rocklands, Castle Hill...
So is Darwen like an amphidromic point of bouldering? Wonder where the other ones are?
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New and old problems from Montcliffe. The highball is great - been looking at it for years, but last year finally cleaned the top and sorted the landing. The 7C is good too, possibly stiff at the grade. Polish Dave psyche made me try this one again, and it's a cracker.
http://vimeo.com/160531868
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Indian face looks cracking rman :thumbsup:
:-\ Ron hills though :blink:
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Nah, my thermals! Merino wool, I'll have you know. I forgot my climbing trousers that day, so it was either that or show off my legs...
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It's a strong look either way Robin :lol:
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Imagine my surprise when watching the first problem, damn this looks good. 2nd problem, looked good on right, left looked a little dirty ish. I thought I'd have to get a plate, get my words, put them on the plate and eat them. Luckily the rest of the problems followed, plus a different angle of problem 2.
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Yes, two class problems, plus some other bits for keen locals. I think that's pretty good for a minor esoteric venue.
There's also the Gaskins 7C+ which I've ever managed - the awesome bulging prow you can see at 4:08.
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Oh god yeh I'm not dissing local venues, I climbed at hobby moor for years! I say I'm not dissing them, they are wank but they're your wank that's the difference. That's in general not directed at you r-man ;)
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Feck me did Dense get laid or something? :lets_do_it_wild:
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No i just want r-man to keep posting these vids since they make me feel good about myself :tease: