UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Palomides on May 14, 2014, 10:35:56 pm
-
Quite original - sending youngsters off to climb old-school hard routes with the First Ascentionist (hopefully excluding Güllich)
http://mammut-rockclimbing.ch/en/ (http://mammut-rockclimbing.ch/en/)
List from 8a.nu -
1. 1986 Hyaena 8b+, Gallo/Schubert
2. 1991 Action Directe 9a, Güllich/Hojer
3. 1986 La Rose et la Vampire 8b, Menestrel/Stöhr
4. 1983 The Face 8a+, Moffatt/Bacher
5. 1979 Grand Illusion 8a+, Yaniro/Caballero
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl
Nice to see Grand Illusion not being forgotten, should be good to see Ben and Jerry erm, "encouraging" the youth. Looks a bit like Sean McColl has drawn the short straw though with a trip to exotic Derbyshire.
-
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#1 Hyaena 8b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bechdYEmlE0#ws)
-
I enjoyed that. Remember seeing pictures of that piece of honeycombed rock on magazine covers bitd and thinking it looked pretty amazing.
I initially thought Güllich wasn't the only dead person on the list, until I realised Bacher isn't a typo.
-
I thought that too. Nice idea - shuld make them do it in the footwear of the day - i think that would be a bit harder in Kendos (I think he had them on?)
-
I enjoyed the first one a lot. I heard about this series a while back and thought it had the potential to be a victim of the kind of 'Euro Cheese' which usually comes out of the marketing stables of the big European brands, but it wasn't at all. Looking forward to the 'Grand Illusion' vid. The old 'Yaniro Power' poster always got me psyched as a youth.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster/roy%203/yanirorri57nov93.jpg (http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster/roy%203/yanirorri57nov93.jpg)
-
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl
Nice to see Grand Illusion not being forgotten, should be good to see Ben and Jerry erm, "encouraging" the youth. Looks a bit like Sean McColl has drawn the short straw though with a trip to exotic Derbyshire.
Great news for shark though someone else for him to interview.
-
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#2 Action Directe 9a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOSRfDktwrY#ws) and the second one of Action Directe.
-
Blimey, he made that look easy...
-
Sean McColl is over here for his bit next week.
Is it dry?
-
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/McColl
Ben's keen to get him on Perky Pinky too
-
I found the dialgoue on Jan Hojer on AD a bit muffled and Gerhard Heidorn's accent not entirely easy to understand. So then I thought, if I was going have to put headphones on and listen carefully anyway, then I might as well write it down ...
JH: It's a great pleasure to talk to somebody who actually knew Wolfgang, because I started climbing too late and for me he was just a legend, the route too, it was world famous as the first and the hardest 9a in the world, and that's probably the best known picture of Wolfang on Action
GH: Yes, I took that in 1992 and he couldn't actually climb it, [so JH the only person ever to do it twice?] we just took photos. But you know yourself, when your being photographed you're maybe not so motivated
JH: [laughs] I'm only on the route for the photographer
0:45
GH: Yes that's the first move, that one. How did you find it, that first move?
JH: Well, it's by far the hardest single move. It feels just like Wolfgang looks in the picture: you're hanging on the finger pocket and you're surprised every time just how far away the relatively good hold is.
1:16
GH: You looked very very good on it. You held it well and hit the next pocket precisely. Then you swing out and you have to control all that momentum
JH: It's a very athletic move and that suits everybody that trains a lot indoors ... the direction in which bouldering above all has developed in recent years ...
GH: Jumps ... everything towards [inaudible]
JH: Exactly. Everything's become a bit more dynamic: I think because of that people found the jump significantly harder in Wolfgang's day than today
1:56
2:24
GH: You can see on him [WG in the photo] these back muscles, very defined, and the big forearms - that was his distinctive physique, and he trained ...
JH: He invested a lot in it, to be able to climb this route.
GH: Yep
JH: ... and his other projects
GH: Yeah, he trained, but he also took long breaks. He always had to get motivated for a project, then he enjoyed it. When there wasn't a project, then ...
JH: When you wonder what you're doing it all for
GH: He would just read stuff for days on end. Or he didn't come out of his room. It was really like that. But that wasn't the milestone, Action Directe
3:10 onwards
Cameraman: [didn't catch much of what the cameraman was saying] ... look to the right ... super ... [something about the rope] ... super, great ...
-
Thanks for the translation, despite not being able to hear it properly. Good stuff.
-
THanks for the translation too. A great film. Made me realise how short and intensely powerful the route is. From other films its always split up into too many parts and made too slow.. Love the way you see JH's whole body relax when he gets that final sidepull (jug)...
-
Mammut is getting members of their team (http://www.mammut.ch/athletes_proteam_climbing) to repeat 6 historical milestone routes in the history of sports climbing for a video series namely:
1. 1986 Hyaena 8b+ (http://mammut-rockclimbing.ch/en/hyaena/#.U3iuKf1waYM), Gallo/Jakob Schubert
2. 1991 Action Directe 9a, Güllich/Jan Hojer
3. 1986 La Rose et la Vampire 8b, Menestrel/Anna Stöhr
4. 1983 The Face 8a+, Moffatt/Barbara Bacher
5. 1979 Grand Illusion 8a+, Yaniro/Mirko Caballero
6. 1990 Hubble 8c+ (9a), Moon/Sean McColl
Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble (and maybe Perky Pinky the unrepeated? :worms: Schoolroom problem put up by Malc Smith )
Here's the first video:
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#1 Hyaena 8b+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bechdYEmlE0#ws)
-
I thought there was a video of perky pinky on vimeo, or was that not it?
-
Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble
some egg on face potential there, hope conditions are good for him
-
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.
-
Sean McColl is over next week to do Hubble
some egg on face potential there, hope conditions are good for him
I was thinking that too, surely this is rather far from being a foregone conclusion. Chance to burn off Adam Ondra and Alex Megos though.
-
I thought there was a video of perky pinky on vimeo, or was that not it?
Doyle's video of Simpson do you mean (below) ? - it's not seamless.
Did anyone see him do it in a oner?
Perky Pinky on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/5126177)
-
::) Did anyone ever see him do anything in a oner!?
Is anyone else as eagerly anticipating some wad sending/getting shutdown on Hubble as I am? Don't usually get a build up.....
-
:popcorn: I hope he does it. Would be pretty impressive to get it on a flying visit. :popcorn:
-
Watching that film of Doylo's is so depressing now. What a waste.
-
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.
they should change it to liquid amber
-
Wish Jerry's route was Liquid Ambar instead of The Face.
+1
Here's Jan on Action Direct:
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#2 Action Directe 9a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOSRfDktwrY#ws)
-
Duplicate of this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24179.0.html)?
-
I thought there was a video of perky pinky on vimeo, or was that not it?
Doyle's video of Simpson do you mean (below) ? - it's not seamless.
Did anyone see him do it in a oner?
Perky Pinky on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/5126177)
Yeah, I always assumed from the power shout that was it :shrug: and the fact he looked to be mutant strong of course.
-
Mammut is getting members of their team (http://www.mammut.ch/athletes_proteam_climbing) to repeat 6 historical milestone routes in the history of sports climbing for a video series namely:
Duplicate thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24179.0.html).
-
Merge? Poor IO skills!
-
Hasn't Jan already climbed Action Direct?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Nice idea for a film series, I like the historic detail from the protagonists.
Seems strange that they would do one video in english and then the next in german.
-
well in one video you have an austrian with an italian, the other you have two german countryman. Them speaking english to each other would make as much as sense as moon and mccoll discussing Hubble en francaise
that being said, subtitles would have been appreciated. Thanks Meunch
-
Merge? Poor IO skills!
Nothing new there :-[
Lets see if I fuck up the merge...
-
well in one video you have an austrian with an italian, the other you have two german countryman. Them speaking english to each other would make as much as sense as moon and mccoll discussing Hubble en francaise
McColl's Canadien, n'est-ce pas?
-
Them speaking english to each other would make as much as sense as moon and mccoll discussing Hubble en francaise
McColl's Canadien, n'est-ce pas?
[/quote
True, but his write-up on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sean_McColl) says he was born in British Columbia not Quebec.
-
well in one video you have an austrian with an italian, the other you have two german countryman. Them speaking english to each other would make as much as sense as moon and mccoll discussing Hubble en francaise
that being said, subtitles would have been appreciated. Thanks Meunch
Yes yes, I thought it was a marketing exercise?
-
Them speaking english to each other would make as much as sense as moon and mccoll discussing Hubble en francaise
McColl's Canadien, n'est-ce pas?
True, but his write-up on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sean_McColl) says he was born in British Columbia not Quebec.
But of course as we all know, since french officially enjoys equal status within canada you can bank upon it being spoken by all canadian, not just the quebequois. Oh hang on.....
-
More to the point, the action direct video isn't actually released yet. Mayhaps there will be a version with subtitles when it is...
-
More to the point, the action direct video isn't actually released yet. Mayhaps there will be a version with subtitles when it is...
How is having been on youtube for nearly a week "not actually released yet"?
-
Not linked from their website, which says 'coming soon', and no subtitles, unlike the other vid. I reckon they've just uploaded to YouTube eaely
-
looks like McColl didn't manage it.
-
Ça va sans dire.
It's bloody Hubble, innit?
-
my 'evidence' being him not logging an accent.
http://sendage.com/user/sean-mccoll (http://sendage.com/user/sean-mccoll)
2nd try. Just came back from trying Hubble, so the moves felt so much easier...!
unless of course he did do it and it's a secret until the video.
-
my 'evidence' being him not logging an accent.
Yeah, that's French for you.
-
my 'evidence' being him not logging an accent.
Yeah, that's French for you.
Hah, I'll leave that typo unedited so your joke isn't lost.
-
I don't know, from the wording on his facebook status, the cheeky grin and quick return to france , i feel like he did it.
Eagerly awaiting the send footage!
-
Ie if someone did Hubble wearing one I wouldn't recognise an ascent, since it's not in keeping with the FA.
Do they need to wear Boreal Vectors and a set of clip on dreads weighing at least a kilo too?
-
Sorry JB. You just missed the cut.
New topic on latest Hubble gossip here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24273.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24273.0.html)
-
Move to the split thread
-
Move to the split thread
I get scared every time I split a thread that I'm going to end up deleting a load of posts and to take just one out requires spliting this thread into two with the only post on the new thread being JB's then merge that thread of one post with the new thread. As its prone to fuck up I'd rather not risk it.
-
Sorry that was meant to be "moved" in so much as I edited my post here which belonged in the new thread that you split whilst I was writing it.
-
La rose et le vampire.
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#3 La Rose et le Vampire 8b (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4I2H9tQKpI#ws)
-
Brilliant! Best one yet.
I wandered along the bottom of the route in 94 looking up in awe and never seen anyone (in life or on film) climb it... what a route - big powerful moves, techy looking crux getting set up for the big move at the overlap...
-
Yeah it's a great video! It's what climbing is all about to me - lots of laughs and trying something cool!
-
Classic Stohr: she seems to struggle a bit, then she proceeds to crush. Brilliant. What a route.
-
That's the first one I've watched, 'cos it's a route I've heard about for years. What a letdown... another piece of nondescript limestone. The moves look cool and that, but no line whatsoever, and a lower-off halfway up. (http://lindadoty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/oldman.gif?w=700)
-
Bet you can't wait for McColl on Hubble then.
-
You can climb to the top for La Rage de Vivre.
-
That's the first one I've watched, 'cos it's a route I've heard about for years. What a letdown... another piece of nondescript limestone. The moves look cool and that, but no line whatsoever, and a lower-off halfway up. (http://lindadoty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/oldman.gif?w=700)
And it's chipped, don't forget :-[
Personally, I thought it was great.
-
That's the first one I've watched, 'cos it's a route I've heard about for years. What a letdown... another piece of nondescript limestone. The moves look cool and that, but no line whatsoever, and a lower-off halfway up. (http://lindadoty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/oldman.gif?w=700)
It's a pretty cool wall when you stand below it. In a beautiful valley with nice views. Plus you've got the history. And the fact that it's Buoux so it's probably desperate. It's basically sport-trad.
-
she seems to struggle a bit, then she proceeds to crush.
I often wonder if there's a lot of working the route that gets omitted between them looking shit, and pissing it. Still, great vid.
-
I loved that. What a great little film and unlike many they all seem to be having a ball.
Having spent a fair few days NOT doing this route i can confirm that it is brilliant, even though its chipped.
JB you are a miserable C**t at times and seemed to have an ever decreasing range off vision as to what is good and bad.
Whats not to like, its got history, the rock quality is nothing short of perfect, the moves are about as good as it gets, in an amazing valley located in one of the nicest areas of Europe.
In my opinion a far more impressive looking route than a majority of grit routes and in a different league to most stuff on our mountain crags. Go and stand under it and you would agree.
Anyway, brilliant film and truly shows what going out climbing with your mates should be like.
-
We seem to be having a proper old skool overload at the minute, with the school re opening, Hubble being tired and failed on, Rose and the Vampire and now a malc interview.
Not sure my heart can take much more of the excitement.
-
Old is the new new!
-
JB you are a miserable C**t at times and seemed to have an ever decreasing range off vision as to what is good and bad.
Whats not to like, its got history, the rock quality is nothing short of perfect, the moves are about as good as it gets, in an amazing valley located in one of the nicest areas of Europe.
In my opinion a far more impressive looking route than a majority of grit routes and in a different league to most stuff on our mountain crags. Go and stand under it and you would agree.
The bolts at best detract and at worst impede moving through a found environment using one's own skill and craft. :clown:
-
Or...Placing gear detracts from the flow of climbing and bolts are generally less intrusive than trad gear if you value the kinaesthetic line over the aesthetic line.
And yes, I thought that route looked ace.
-
Agree that le Rose looks well inspiring when you're stood under it. Unlike Stanage.
-
Old is the new new!
Excellent. I'm fashionable again.
-
That's the first one I've watched, 'cos it's a route I've heard about for years. What a letdown... another piece of nondescript limestone. The moves look cool and that, but no line whatsoever, and a lower-off halfway up. (http://lindadoty.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/oldman.gif?w=700)
It's the first section of a route fully to the top of the crag, an amazing soaring line and La Rose goes straight through the middle of that blank wall. It's a stunner.
And it's not just chipped, it's totally created but in a very particular way. He tapped the rock all over to work out where there were pockets under the surface, then exposed and smoothed them off.
Simultaneously completely unnatural and in line with the natural features.
-
Agree that le Rose looks well inspiring when you're stood under it. Unlike Stanage.
They both inspire me.
He tapped the rock all over to work out where there were pockets under the surface, then exposed and smoothed them off.
That sounds a bit medwards though.
-
In my opinion a far more impressive looking route than a majority of grit routes and in a different league to most stuff on our mountain crags. Go and stand under it and you would agree.
Agree that le Rose looks well inspiring when you're stood under it. Unlike Stanage.
If this is true, and I can believe it, then the film is at fault. I've seen other footage of Buoux and it looked decent. For the record I don't have a problem with bolts per se - this is where sport climbing evolved wasn't it? And you can see why.
-
He tapped the rock all over to work out where there were pockets under the surface, then exposed and smoothed them off.
That sounds a bit medwards though.
Do you mean unusual or bullshit? It's what he did fwiw, there was quite a spiritual/mystical thing going on with Anthoine, Fabrice Guillot et al, so it's in keeping with that philosophy of discovery. The valley is strange place in some ways, full of ghosts.
-
We seem to be having a proper old skool overload at the minute, with the school re opening, Hubble being tired and failed on, Rose and the Vampire and now a malc interview.
JB you are a miserable C**t at times and seemed to have an ever decreasing range off vision as to what is good and bad
The two are related, not an era I get very excited about - the worship of power being demonstrated on shit bits of rock. Plus I was supposed to be tradding in the Hebrides this week... and Dean Potter is BASE-jumping with his dog.
THE IDIOTS ARE WINNING.
there was quite a spiritual/mystical thing going on with Anthoine, Fabrice Guillot et al, so it's in keeping with that philosophy of discovery.
Now that I have got time for - MleM remains technically the best climber I've seen, very elegant. And at least they never pretended that drilling holes in the rock is any different to, err, drilling holes in the rock.
-
JB you should go to Buoux. The valley is magical.
The climbing couldn't be further away from the "worship of power on shit bits of rock" that you describe. There is everything from single pitch thugish power routes, to slabs, to multi pitch cracks and soaring aretes. It is nothing like the modern sport climbing crags of Spain, you have to climb well to do the routes, many end up on slabs and the bolts can be miles apart. Hence why its not that popular now.
The whole valley is full of history, the fort on the ridge on the opposite side of the valley is amazing. Built in C13th and occupied until the late C16th when it was ruined during the wars. There are also evidence of prehistoric man living there.
I guarantee you would be inspired.
-
Do you mean unusual or bullshit?
Unusual -just making a jokey comment as it reminded me of the sort of thing he's said. I should have used Slackline's clown icon. ;)
-
Most the classic 80s /early 90s routes are on great bits of rock. Hubble being the obvious exception.
-
JB you should go to Buoux. The valley is magical.
The climbing couldn't be further away from the "worship of power on shit bits of rock" that you describe. There is everything from single pitch thugish power routes, to slabs, to multi pitch cracks and soaring aretes. It is nothing like the modern sport climbing crags of Spain, you have to climb well to do the routes, many end up on slabs and the bolts can be miles apart. Hence why its not that popular now.
The whole valley is full of history, the fort on the ridge on the opposite side of the valley is amazing. Built in C13th and occupied until the late C16th when it was ruined during the wars. There are also evidence of prehistoric man living there.
I guarantee you would be inspired.
This!
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
-
JB you should go to Buoux. The valley is magical.
The climbing couldn't be further away from the "worship of power on shit bits of rock" that you describe. There is everything from single pitch thugish power routes, to slabs, to multi pitch cracks and soaring aretes. It is nothing like the modern sport climbing crags of Spain, you have to climb well to do the routes, many end up on slabs and the bolts can be miles apart. Hence why its not that popular now.
The whole valley is full of history, the fort on the ridge on the opposite side of the valley is amazing. Built in C13th and occupied until the late C16th when it was ruined during the wars. There are also evidence of prehistoric man living there.
I guarantee you would be inspired.
See Paul B's article in Climb from last year for more inspiration.
Only spent two days climbing at Buoux on our way to Verdon but thought it was brilliant. Very true about the run-out slabs, freaked my mate out (not a good start to the trip considering where we were heading to!). I even found a nice thrutchy crack/off-width to climb which mildly irritated my other mate who doesn't like that sort of thing.
-
We seem to be having a proper old skool overload at the minute, with the school re opening, Hubble being tired and failed on, Rose and the Vampire and now a malc interview.
Where's your lycra and fluoro wetsuit?
-
Yeah, sorry that wasn't aimed at Buoux, but the school/ Hubble etc nineties Sheffield power scene It's cool that Hubble is so hard, but I suspect the lack of repeats has something to do with it not being worth travelling for.
-
I swear I've had the same debate with you before JB re: Buoux?
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8537/8609062981_2b726130d7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/e7KGun)Buoux 2012 (https://flic.kr/p/e7KGun) by travelswithmyt4 (https://www.flickr.com/people//), on Flickr
if that route isn't a strong enough sport line to entice you then you're not seeing clearly. Face Ouest has some truly outstanding lines and the Rose is simply iconic. The valley is lovely and the crag is fairly unique on the range of climbing it offers (in both size and style).
Anna looks utterly fluid on that route, the bottom (before the cross-through) is no give-away if you're short either.
...and you say that re: Hubble, but some rather strong (they're not shit either) contenders haven't quite managed it?
-
JB you should go to Buoux. The valley is magical.
The climbing couldn't be further away from the "worship of power on shit bits of rock" that you describe. There is everything from single pitch thugish power routes, to slabs, to multi pitch cracks and soaring aretes. It is nothing like the modern sport climbing crags of Spain, you have to climb well to do the routes, many end up on slabs and the bolts can be miles apart. Hence why its not that popular now.
The whole valley is full of history, the fort on the ridge on the opposite side of the valley is amazing. Built in C13th and occupied until the late C16th when it was ruined during the wars. There are also evidence of prehistoric man living there.
I guarantee you would be inspired.
I went to Boux after is been climbing for a year. I was shut down on most things and didn't climb much but it's a wonderful place. The wall the Rose goes up is magnificent.
-
JB you should go to Buoux. The valley is magical.
The whole valley is full of history, the fort on the ridge on the opposite side of the valley is amazing. Built in C13th and occupied until the late C16th when it was ruined during the wars. There are also evidence of prehistoric man living there.
I guarantee you would be inspired.
Totally agree. On the trade route from Southern Spain to Mid Europe going back 1000s of years , earliest evidence of settlement maybe 5,000 years I was told. There's a story that catacombs with bodies - a necropolis- were discovered in the 50s..and the guy who explored them never came back from one foray. I believe the shafts in the cliff were for Huguenot refuges, the blocky cutaways used to hold the timber structure and when threatened they'd climb up inside and pull the ladder up after them.
Pierre Pessemesse is the authority if you could ever talk to him. Anthoine knows the history well, obviously. It's a special place.
-
Can I say a third time, Buoux looks great. The film didn't do a great job of showing that, that's all.
-
I believe the shafts in the cliff were for Huguenot refuges, the blocky cutaways used to hold the timber structure
Bloody Huguenots. Coming over here, chipping, making it easier to get to La Plage and the Mauvais Sang belay. What's wrong with having to climb two pitches of choss? #Ukip
-
Doubting transubstantiation.....
-
Best place I've ever climbed, for all the reasons stated above.
-
Brilliant! Best one yet.
I wandered along the bottom of the route in 94 looking up in awe and never seen anyone (in life or on film) climb it... what a route - big powerful moves, techy looking crux getting set up for the big move at the overlap...
I watched Sean Myles redpoint it back in 1987(?). In a thunderstorm. He was quite chuffed.
-
Brilliant! Best one yet.
I wandered along the bottom of the route in 94 looking up in awe and never seen anyone (in life or on film) climb it... what a route - big powerful moves, techy looking crux getting set up for the big move at the overlap...
I watched Sean Myles redpoint it back in 1987(?). In a thunderstorm. He was quite chuffed.
On that trip with you I saw Jibe do the extension - Rage de Vivre.
He always seemed so cool and err French on the ground but when he clipped the chains he went absolutely berserk
-
That trip was a good one - it is when your nickname was born. And when you spat in the Brat's face ;D
-
That trip was a good one - it is when your nickname was born.
More info please.
-
And when you spat in the Brat's face ;D
And on this please!
-
Shark was originally Sharky and it derives from me and Patta deciding Mr Lee was a bit pathetic. Hence he was a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pathetic_Sharks (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pathetic_Sharks)
-
And when you spat in the Brat's face ;D
And on this please!
Sitting around the campsite one night the Brat was living up to his name and was spitting all over the place and was hitting people with it. Mr Shark just got up, strolled over to the Brat and gobbed in his face - the Brat stopped being a brat for the rest of the night. Waddage to the Shark.
-
Sitting around the campsite one night the Brat was living up to his name and was spitting all over the place and was hitting people with it. Mr Shark just got up, strolled over to the Brat and gobbed in his face - the Brat stopped being a brat for the rest of the night. Waddage to the Shark.
Strictly speaking it was on his chest rather than his face. And he did have an anarok on.
He seemed to be testing us to see how far he could push things, first by having a piss right behind us then gobbing everywhere. The final straw for me was when he gobbed on Patta's leg. I was fully expecting a punch up but he just sloped off.
-
Who's the Brat?
-
Who's the Brat?
Graeme Livingstone
-
totally off topic, but you just reminded me of this (http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2507&dat=19870115&id=XKNAAAAAIBAJ&sjid=k6UMAAAAIBAJ&pg=4715,2660030)
:lol: or :no:
-
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#4 The Face 8a+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXmfEjugRv8#ws)
-
So ... No actual send of the route?
-
Didn't look like it to me, too cold and wet/icey, crag now closed until later in the year, hoping if conditions too warm to climb it in Autumn.
-
Pity about that, looks like a very cool route.
-
I don't get it.
Why going there when it's out of conditions?
Still brilliant to hear Jerry though.
-
Why going there when it's out of conditions?
<cynic>Mammut paid for them to go.</cynic>
-
Why going there when it's out of conditions?
<cynic>Mammut paid for them to go.</cynic>
They paid for them to not climb the route? They could have paid me, then! ;)
-
I'm enjoying all the faliures, the alpine spirit comes to sport.
-
;D
-
I love Jerry :-[
-
Likewise!
When Barbara was - and probably righteously so - complaining about cold, icy holds, numb fingers and toes, Jerry was grinning like a mofo, and I was expecting him to put a harness and some crap shoes on, and proceed to hike the route for the camera!
Which probably happened but wasn't featured in the vid.
Amazing line.
-
"Mammut Failing on Some of the Classics" would be my choice. Not quite as catchy maybe.
-
I want to see the Hubble/kneebar/failure footage. :popcorn:
-
Looking forward to the 'failing on Hubble' episode
-
Good job they subtitled Jerry, what with his thick regional accent.
-
"Mammut Failing on Some of the Classics" would be my choice. Not quite as catchy maybe.
Mammut Getting Spanked by Old School Proper Hard?
-
I think its good not all the routes are seeing successful ascents.
When I go out climbing I don't always get up everything I try so this just reflects reality a bit better than the pseudo representation of all sponsored climbers being uber-wads and capable of climbing anything.
-
One that actually was reclimbed.
http://www.youtube.com/v/PmzjzHjSNPM (http://www.youtube.com/v/PmzjzHjSNPM)
-
good to see that standards haven't slipped since the 70s
-
Judging from how long it's taking to publish the Hubble video, it must have been a fail of epic proportions...
-
turd polishing?
-
turd polishing?
New slang for climbing at the Tor? ;)
-
no
for making Peak Lime look good in video
-
good to see that standards haven't slipped since the 70s
Was the FA on pre-placed gear as well?
-
no
for making Peak Lime look good in video
Peak lime looks brilliant on video, I won't hear anything otherwise, scumbag. Do you want to try some of my home brew?
-
I think it was, yes. Done 'properly' in 1988 by Hidetaka Suzuki.
-
Istr Craig Smith did it on his mid-80s US trip. Don't know in what style and I might be getting it mixed up with some Yosemite testpiece of the same era.
-
Istr Craig Smith did it on his mid-80s US trip. Don't know in what style and I might be getting it mixed up with some Yosemite testpiece of the same era.
I am sure the style was terrible - I have seen Craig's lycra collection
-
Maybe the lad hasn't got a scoob how to place gear? Bit of an odd choice in amongst the other sport climbs? I wonder if they were each given a choice of route?
-
And McColl picked Hubble?!
-
Looks good that granite climb. I wish my name was Yaniro.
-
no
for making Peak Lime look good in video
Peak lime looks brilliant on video, I won't hear anything otherwise, scumbag. Do you want to try some of my home brew?
you've been on Hayden's crack pipe haven't you
-
And McColl picked Hubble?!
Maybe he was up for a real challenge?
-
HYBRIS!!!!
The Gods were pissed with Sean!!!
-
Ironic the worlds first F8 was a trad route.
-
I was gonna get on my high horse about the "bad style" of this ascent but apparently the first ascent was on pre-placed as well.
-
Not having a copy of Jerrys book to hand here at work other than in a glass case 'In event of emergency'
didn't Jerry go to the states in about 84 and onsight Grand Illusion? Was the gear pre-placed then?
It being a trad crack i'd thought it he'd done a trad style onsight placing gear on lead.
Not passing judgment etc but I just hadn't realised this was how things were done then. As Yaniro mentions it was an interesting time, a lot of changing style and ethics.
Really good little film that, these conversations with the protagonists are the most interesting part.
-
Absolutely love that one. Yaniro is a true legend.
-
Remember this?
(http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b7/d7/cc/b7d7cc922a693412dc5c51b4681c8735.jpg)
-
Not having a copy of Jerrys book to hand here at work other than in a glass case 'In event of emergency'
didn't Jerry go to the states in about 84 and onsight Grand Illusion? Was the gear pre-placed then?
It being a trad crack i'd thought it he'd done a trad style onsight placing gear on lead.
Not passing judgment etc but I just hadn't realised this was how things were done then. As Yaniro mentions it was an interesting time, a lot of changing style and ethics.
Really good little film that, these conversations with the protagonists are the most interesting part.
I don't think Jerry did Grand Illusion . His impressive US flashes were Equinox, Supercrack, Psycho Roof, Genesis and later the Phoenix.
-
I remember Yaniro from Masters of Stone when I was a youth. He was smoooooooooth.
-
Surely a good candidate for retrobolting... :blink:
-
I don't think Jerry did Grand Illusion . His impressive US flashes were Equinox, Supercrack, Psycho Roof, Genesis and later the Phoenix.
I've never been to the States but if I recall he did flash the 7c/+s mentioned above. Not as far as I know Grand Illusion, it's 8a+ though isn't it?
-
Not all good news though - if it wasn't for this photo Dense wouldn't even be on here.
(https://seeadamtrain.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/yaniro.jpg)
-
I don't think Jerry did Grand Illusion . His impressive US flashes were Equinox, Supercrack, Psycho Roof, Genesis and later the Phoenix.
I've never been to the States but if I recall he did flash the 7c/+s mentioned above. Not as far as I know Grand Illusion, it's 8a+ though isn't it?
yes
-
Haha not that photo, I've not seen that before. Monster!
It was the one of him on equinox, tho it may have been grand illusion since someone threw a spanner in the works above.
-
Not all good news though - if it wasn't for this photo Dense wouldn't even be on here.
Great pic. I love the fact that it predates online communications and just has a 1.800 number. Wad for sure.
-
I might be the only holdout on McColl/Hubble but his latest post (http://seanmccoll.com/2014/07/another-day-at-the-office) pretty much confirms a non-send.
On a related note ...
"Before I left, I received my knee-pad which I’ve been pretty excited to try out. It’s too bad I didn’t have it while trying Hubble 8c+ up in the UK but at least if I go back I’ll have something for that task."
:o
-
There you go: all the tricks, the world cup victories, the super modern training, can't get you up Hubble.
http://www.youtube.com/v/5Nbzj3TxDKE (http://www.youtube.com/v/5Nbzj3TxDKE)
-
There you go: all the tricks, the world cup victories, the super modern training, can't get you up Hubble.
http://www.youtube.com/v/5Nbzj3TxDKE (http://www.youtube.com/v/5Nbzj3TxDKE)
Is it me - or does Ben sound pissed off/can't be arsed talking about it with him? Short answers, eyes looking everywhere else, twiddling the phone... etc...
:)
-
Think McColl made a good go of it considering it was wet and he only had a few days to try it. Certainly didn't look too far off, but hard to tell with the editing.
-
Yes of course he did a good job! I was only being a bit nasty.
Anyway I got the same impression as Tomtom!
-
I might be the only holdout on McColl/Hubble but his latest post (http://seanmccoll.com/2014/07/another-day-at-the-office) pretty much confirms a non-send.
On a related note ...
"Before I left, I received my knee-pad which I’ve been pretty excited to try out. It’s too bad I didn’t have it while trying Hubble 8c+ up in the UK but at least if I go back I’ll have something for that task."
:o
So it wasn't that he didn't have a kneepad when he tried it - just the wrong make of kneepad
-
Knowing Ben, I don't think anything at all can be read into his demeanour there.
-
I agree with tomtom too, but I was pretty disappointed with the video. Not enough failure or the process of figuring stuff out. Too much on the top section and not enough on the bottom. If I didn't know much about Hubble it would be hard to tell just how hard the bottom is from that.
-
I agree with tomtom too, but I was pretty disappointed with the video. Not enough failure or the process of figuring stuff out. Too much on the top section and not enough on the bottom. If I didn't know much about Hubble it would be hard to tell just how hard the bottom is from that.
Especially when compared to this
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/steve-mcclure-hubble (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/steve-mcclure-hubble)
-
The reliably-crap Gripped magazine obfuscate the outcome here! http://gripped.com/routes/mccoll-climbs-ben-moons-hubble/ (http://gripped.com/routes/mccoll-climbs-ben-moons-hubble/)
Should read mccoll fails to climb Hubble even with a knee pad!
-
I didn't realise the kneebar was for those moves. Moony seemed his normal self to me.
-
Ha, notice the total number of ascents has dropped from 6 to 5 :worms:
-
The knee bar is worse than I thought. And he still thinks it's 8B+ like this. Must be harder the proper way then.
-
Not great video, but pretty amazing effort from McColl considering it looked absolutely soaking
-
They're overdoing the wet bit. I was there a lot that week in the evenings and one foothold was damp.
-
The reliably-crap Gripped magazine obfuscate the outcome here! http://gripped.com/routes/mccoll-climbs-ben-moons-hubble/ (http://gripped.com/routes/mccoll-climbs-ben-moons-hubble/)
Ha ... Gripped changed their headline to "McColl attempts ..." from "McColl climbs ...".
That has got to be the shittest opening paragraph I have ever read...
-
I reckon I might conquer Hubble by hook-climbing. Sounds amazing.
-
I wonder if the author of that article would pass the Turing Test.
-
how hard is/was it using 2 points of aid?
-
how hard is/was it using 2 points of aid?
I don't think it was anything. I think the aid start referred to was the aid start to Whore of Babylon (which was 8a), which went rightwards after the hard bit of Hubble via some holds that have now broken off, then went to the top of the crag. It didn't climb the top bit of Hubble.
-
Ta
that explains what I was wondering about
-
Jens has declared Hubble Font 8c on the 8a forum :-\
-
Jens:
"Normally 8B+ is compared to an 8c+ route and based on that some of the best climbers in the world could not do it I say it must be 8C." :rtfm: :smartass:
-
What a fucking cock.
-
Must be 8C+ without a kneepad.
-
Must be 9A WITH a kneepad since not one of the current best climbers of the world succeeded in climbing it WITH said kneepad. :wall:
Strong reasoning was and is a gift ... :boohoo:
-
Lv that article
-
Interesting reading that article with hindsight. Moony didn't get his way re the grading scale. I bet Super Plafond and Bronx aren't even regarded as soft for 8c+ now.
-
The knee bar is worse than I thought. And he still thinks it's 8B+ like this. Must be harder the proper way then.
:agree: Looks like it makes a big difference. Bit naff how the video/McColl made no mention of this minor detail whatsoever.
-
Sean Mccolls Twitter :'@mccollsean: Not necessarily easier because it takes a while to put the knee bar in, which is harder than one foot. it's so hard to put in right, I doubted if it was worth it...'
-
Never judge a knee without trying.. Tricksy heels look great when they work, same with tricksy knees..
-
Lv that article
Me too.. Don't know what to think of it.. But a great great read!!!
-
"Looks like it makes a big difference. Bit naff how the video/McColl made no mention of this minor detail whatsoever."
..well the elephant in the room sat on the cameraman at that point. One of the most icon moves on limestone too.
"Sean Mccolls Twitter :'@mccollsean: Not necessarily easier because it takes a while to put the knee bar in, which is harder than one foot. it's so hard to put in right, I doubted if it was worth it...'"
..but clearly, on balance, it is! Really poor not to have at least some kneeage of him trying it both ways.
-
kneeage
;D
-
I also found Mammut's captioning of the photograph of Hubble to be more than a little misleading: "Sean Mccoll Climbing Hubble" rather than "attempting". Some of the comments below clearly hadn't watched the video or even knew the outcome; job done.
It seems many manufacturers have forgotten how vital captioning is, especially when you get get breathtaking pics on a "FA" that are clearly taken after the fact... Advertisers eh :jab:
-
This whole thing is distasteful and the film is wank. Ben's demeanor in the clip may just be Ben being Ben but it's certainly appropriate.
Good post Dave.
-
Not his fault, just feels like Mammut trying to gloss over a few facts so as to tie up their series neatly. Shame as it's been really good other than this.
-
Not his fault, just feels like Mammut
Its not Mammut making out it was wet - when it wasn't particularly and tweeting that the kneebar doesn't make that much difference when it evidently does make a difference and that a better pad would have made more of a difference.
-
Burn the witch!!
-
Christ will someone just go and pull Sean's innards out by his throat for having an opinion
-
Blimey - I quite liked the video and thought it was a decent effort given how much time he had vs. conditions.
-
I like how everyone knows that the kneebar makes a big difference except for the person who's actually tried using it. Maybe it does, but you can't tell shit by watching a video, so until someone uses it and says otherwise I'll take his word for it
-
The whole point of "Revisiting the Classics" is to take a step back in time and see how modern climbers fare on groundbreaking routes of yesteryear and to give some context of what the route represented. To break out a kneepad without even commenting that at the time a kneebar let alone a kneepad wasn't used and then comment he had the wrong make of kneepad is scarcely the lack of historical perspective you should expect from him or a series like this.
-
Knee bar ethics/arguments/blah blah blah aside, it is a log film - especially given the others in the series have been great.
Its also possible for us in the UK to get a bit precious about the enigma that is Hubble. But again, that aside, compared to the other films its just crap. No chemistry, no great feel for the characters, not much about the history of the route - and a load of footage of the top part thats not really part of the story.
Back around Mammut..
(edit) meh.. probably shouldn't have bothered posting the above......
-
...must....resist...posting...anything...to...do...with...polishing...turds...
-
Is there any unedited footage of hubble sending?
-
To break out a kneepad without even commenting ... is scarcely the lack of historical perspective you should expect from him or a series like this.
How much lack of historical perspective should we expect? :-\ I thought Mammut had achieved rather well in that regard with anachronistic neoprene nonsense tbh
-
It's fair enough to call foul on this in the context of films 'supposedly' paying homage to classic test-pieces. If Anna Stohr had found a minging crimp to tek her way around the dyno on Rose et le Vampire, and found a way of missing out the rose move we'd all think it was a load of shit. Same here with Hubble.
-
Is there any unedited footage of hubble sending?
I would guess the McClure footage is actual send footage, but just curious.
-
It's fair enough to call foul on this in the context of films 'supposedly' paying homage to classic test-pieces. If Anna Stohr had found a minging crimp to tek her way around the dyno on Rose et le Vampire, and found a way of missing out the rose move we'd all think it was a load of shit. Same here with Hubble.
Very well put.
-
I think it's time we all had another look at this one again to cheer ourselves up.
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#3 La Rose et le Vampire 8b (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4I2H9tQKpI#ws)
-
Go on then.
-
That's cool as F**K!
Hadn't seen that!
-
Since Ben's in focus in this thread, a little anecdote.
I saw him fail on La Rage one evening, (the extension of La Rose which adds an 8a+ to the top of the crag). Presently he had another go but fell really high, on the very last hard move near the top of the crag.
Game over I guessed really, since he'd just done the Rose and most of an 8a+ on top twice in quick succession, so I started my hitch back to Apt.
When I got to the campsite he was already there (having a car of course).
Having just redpointed the route.
-
Having just redpointed the route.
Waddage :strongbench:
-
Is there any unedited footage of hubble sending?
I would guess the McClure footage is actual send footage, but just curious.
No it was filmed later. Doesn't matter in that case, its a good film and crucially Steve has actually climbed it.
-
I was just curious as to uncut footage. Not questioning any sending. Oh well....
On the other hand Megos was knee scumming in the "one week with Alex Megos vid" when he tried it, but padless.
Granted he wasn't part of the "reclimbing the classics" episodes, so:
It's fair enough to call foul on this in the context of films 'supposedly' paying homage to classic test-pieces. If Anna Stohr had found a minging crimp to tek her way around the dyno on Rose et le Vampire, and found a way of missing out the rose move we'd all think it was a load of shit. Same here with Hubble.
doesn't apply?
-
Send and kneepads apart, I found it a generally bad video badly realized and presumptuously conceived.
During the interview it seemeed to me that neither Ben nor Sean had really anything to say each other apart from usual, trivial stuff.
I don't like to hear pro climbers complain about poor conditions or bad gear or little time. I think that Hubble had been an extremely proud choice, so the least they could do was to do everything to make a good video. I mean, five ascents. Five. Moon was Moon. Malc had to build a replica, Gaskins, idem. And these guys think that just because he wins WC events, McColl can have a chance? Really? Who cares about an edited video about someone having good goes (if they were good goes and not single/couple moves), when it's for a world wide production from a world wide sponsor?
I believe in the P Rule: perfect planning prevents piss poor performance.
-
Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance?
-
Why not!
-
Puny pecs provide peeling pinches?
-
Send and kneepads apart, I found it a generally bad video badly realized and presumptuously conceived.
During the interview it seemeed to me that neither Ben nor Sean had really anything to say each other apart from usual, trivial stuff.
I don't like to hear pro climbers complain about poor conditions or bad gear or little time. I think that Hubble had been an extremely proud choice, so the least they could do was to do everything to make a good video. I mean, five ascents. Five. Moon was Moon. Malc had to build a replica, Gaskins, idem. And these guys think that just because he wins WC events, McColl can have a chance? Really? Who cares about an edited video about someone having good goes (if they were good goes and not single/couple moves), when it's for a world wide production from a world wide sponsor?
I believe in the P Rule: perfect planning prevents piss poor performance.
Of the 6, this seemed to be the worst of the bunch, which is a bit unfortunate as this is probably one of the least appreciated/known routes as well. It would have ben great to get a bit more context about how hard this was and the fact it was done a year before AD!! Or at least get someone on it who appreciates the historic significance to really wants to do it, rather than someone who has a few days between WC events to try it...
That was what I loved about the Mcclure video. He obviously has deep emotions about the route and can hardly express them in a manner that makes complete sense. That's real emotion for most people.
-
I don't really agree with most of the posters who've lambasted Sean over this. We want to fly you over to England and try Hubble. Cool far out when do I get to fire the rig? Why does he need a deep desire to climb it? He's being paid to try it, of course he wants to put in a good show cos he's a professional athlete. His job is going round the world trying hard routes on plastic and rock, and a few boulder probs. Everybody and their dog has an excuse for not doing something, why would he be any different? As for him and Ben not having much to say to each other, what? It's not a chatshow!
I too thought it was the worst one they did, but I thought the others were very good this was only decent.
-
I don't think anyone has lambasted Sean over this Dense, All of peoples ire has been at the write up of the film (getting their facts wrong) and of the film itself. I've nothing but respect for the man... being jetted in to perform in front of the camera on a route only climbed by 5 people is a tough gig.
-
As someone who has never climbed any peak sport routes this does seem like a storm in a teacup. Maybe I'd feel differently if I had, but I haven't, so I tend to agree with dense...and grimer, you should all cheer up a bit.
Perhaps some kneebar aficionado like barrows should go and pose mid crux on hubble in a clown suit. Knee in, hands off, thumbs up. I'd pay money to see that.
-
Barrows. On. Hubble.
That will keep me going for a long time.
-
I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.
-
:slap:
I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.
Didn't Steve Dunning do the start and undercut match a lanky way? Use the length then throw a kneebar in for the last moves and hey presto!
-
Has Dunning ever really been to the Tor ?
-
Has Dunning ever really been to the Tor ?
I'm pretty sure i remember reading somewhere that he cycled up down there at 4 in the morning before flashing the joker staminaband, then doing the ace hubble first go :clown:
-
I don't really agree with most of the posters who've lambasted Sean over this. We want to fly you over to England and try Hubble. Cool far out when do I get to fire the rig? Why does he need a deep desire to climb it? He's being paid to try it, of course he wants to put in a good show cos he's a professional athlete. His job is going round the world trying hard routes on plastic and rock, and a few boulder probs. Everybody and their dog has an excuse for not doing something, why would he be any different? As for him and Ben not having much to say to each other, what? It's not a chatshow!
I too thought it was the worst one they did, but I thought the others were very good this was only decent.
Yeah people, stop hatin’ on the geez! It’s hard work being a paid climber for a living. Don’t you know he’s got better things to think about whilst he’s sat at the airport than the point of the series and certainly no time for boring background reading. As for the film editing, it’s about lifestyle and logos, get with the program you idiots – the series concept is just hype to get you to look at some logos. You tell ‘em Lee, these fools must think we’re living in the 1990s or something.
-
Are you seriously suggesting to me that he should sit at an airport and read up on the history of a route? He prob knows the history but I don't see what you're getting at? If there's a knee bar there he's gonna try and use it. I'm surprised at you since you're one of the peeps that talks about using anything and everything and it's not your fault if climbers of yesteryear had no technique. It's a route not an eliminate boulder prob :shrug:
-
I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.
Actually climbing Hubble, whilst undoubtedly harder, would be a lesser achievement than getting the aforementioned staged kneebar shot. I pledge ten pounds, and I'm on a research stipend so that's serious moolah.
-
I'll match danny's ten pounds but only if his very reasonable conditions are met
-
:slap:I'm pretty sure I'd have more chance on plenty of 9bs than on Hubble.
Didn't Steve Dunning do the start and undercut match a lanky way? Use the length then throw a kneebar in for the last moves and hey presto!
Yes, maybe barrows would stand a chance after all though I can't find their respective http://www.celebheights.com (http://www.celebheights.com)
I vaguely recall a conversation I had with Steve Dunning about it at the Tor several years ago; the jist was he could keep his feet on the lower step and admitted that it wasn't as hard for him as for the others who'd done it.
It would have been better if MColl had done no research whatsoever or perhaps if it was someone more garrulous like Dave Graham to open Ben up:
Tell me about the other routes you had done at the time, how did you come to try hubble, was it already a project?
Did you know straight away it was harder than anything else you'd done?
Did it feel like a big leap grading it 8c+, did you expect a reaction?
Has the growth of Hubbles reputation surprised you?
Are you proud that its the thing you are known for in climbing?
These shit questions are just off the top of my head, he could have asked him anything to make it more interesting! This is why I think it is a shit film, it brings nothing whatsoever to the table. No insight.
P.S. Advertising works. Apart from the fact that we're all talking about this; I bought several Mammut Galaxys in a row. To me they are synonymous with Hubble. As mentioned by Steve Mclure in Bens film, it was the most talked about thing in climbing. I was around twelve or so in 1990 when I first walked into a climbing shop or flicked through OTE. Posters and adverts were everywhere.
-
Are you seriously suggesting to me that he should sit at an airport and read up on the history of a route?
If he's being paid to go make a video about climbing a route and going to talk about it on camera with the FA then who knows, it might be helpful, possibly even be considered professional. Just saying, like...
-
Are you seriously suggesting to me that he should sit at an airport and read up on the history of a route? He prob knows the history but I don't see what you're getting at? If there's a knee bar there he's gonna try and use it. I'm surprised at you since you're one of the peeps that talks about using anything and everything and it's not your fault if climbers of yesteryear had no technique. It's a route not an eliminate boulder prob :shrug:
Do more than the bare minimum at work, doesn't seem that crazy an idea. Nothing I've said here contradicts what I said on the other thread. It just strikes me that using a pad but claiming it doesn't help is having your cake and eating it. I don't object to the pad.
-
He's just talking shit that's what people do. Just another excuse, which is fine. Too wet, pass didn't fit, etc people are only getting up in arms cos it's Hubble.
You must have forgot to post my next sentence Chris. Just saying, like...
-
Yeah, I know but we let everyone else off because they're not getting paid for it.
-
I think you're being contrarian for the sake of it here Dense. I don't think anybody is 'up in arms' - to express that you think something is a bit lame isn't being up in arms - and it isn't being grumpy Grimer (edit, not 'upset'). It's just expressing that something could be done better. I think speed cameras on long stretches of open road are a bit lame, I'm not emotionally upset by them. And I think lots of people think it's a tiny bit lame that what might have been a great short film about one of the great test-pieces in climbing was let down in conception (choice of climber, time allowed) and execution (poor interview, misleading publicity). Still, I'm glad they made the effort hey.
-
Just what the fuck are you talking about? Poor choice of climber etc. What?
-
Yeah you're right - I just looked at who Mammut sponsor and McColl is probably the only one with a chance of making an impression on Hubble. My other points stand.
-
Yeah you're right - I just looked at who Mammut sponsor and McColl is probably the only one with a chance of making an impression on Hubble. My other points stand.
Jan Hojer (who did AD for the series) could probably put a good dent in it. Sickeningly-strong 8C boulderer should find an 8B/+ boulder problem on a rope to be up his alley as far as routes go.
-
Sean was hardly a bad choice. Climbed 8C and flashed 8B.
-
I think the mistake he made was not wearing his £1250 Mammut Eiger Raven Tor Extreme Superexpensive Nordwand Pro Alpinist Jacket and Pants With Integrated Knee Pad Combo. It was wet, after all. He could have sold his car and bought one in Hathersage.
-
I'm surprised more top climbers don't visit these shores to enjoy our hospitality and warm welcome.
-
I'm surprised more top climbers don't visit these shores to enjoy our hospitality and warm welcome.
especially when given our fantastic average 325 days a year rain free climate
-
That's probably why they forget to bring their £1250 Mammut 325 Eiger Raven Tor Extreme Superexpensive Nordwand Pro Alpinist Jacket and Pants With Integrated Knee Pad Combo
-
Being British is all about being grumpy and scathing :punk:
-
...and wet.
-
like Hubble was
-
or wasn't
-
exactlee
-
That's probably why they forget to bring their £1250 Mammut 325 Eiger Raven Tor Extreme Superexpensive Nordwand Pro Alpinist Jacket and Pants With Integrated Knee Pad Combo
Or at the very least a pair of those shorts with built-in harness and kneepads that drop down at the push of a button.
-
I'm surprised more top climbers don't visit these shores to enjoy our hospitality and warm welcome.
I think they're drawn more by the stunning, aesthetic and soaring lines offered by the UK's hardest challenges...
-
Haha like Canada has any hard aesthetic sport climbing to offer... oh... wait...
Sean McColl - Dreamcatcher (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA#)
-
Dreamcatcher...
In a grotty cave next(ish) to the freeway.
They needed the soundtrack to drown out the noise of the trucks.
-
Still, I wish we had some caves as grotty!
-
like Hubble was
What's a Hubble?
-
like Hubble was
What's a Hubble?
Its one grade harder than a Gubble.
-
Pretty harsh description of dreamcatcher
I did not think it was grotty and don't remember hearing the traffic on the sea to sky when stood there. Plus it's next to singularity which looks an amazing feature.
-
like Hubble was
What's a Hubble?
Its one grade harder than a Gubble.
And comes just before Bubble.
-
Interesting reading that article with hindsight. Moony didn't get his way re the grading scale. I bet Super Plafond and Bronx aren't even regarded as soft for 8c+ now.
Don't worry, the Swedish Idiot is on the case and will single-handedly fix all the grades. From 8spray:
"Action Directe was set up in 1991 by Wolfgang Güllich and it is considered as the first 9a. It has been done 16 times but only Alex Megos has done it during the last 2.5 years. The other first seven 9a's, see below, have just, in total, been repeated a couple of times the last five years. Add to that that the latest of the four repeats of the first 8c+, but where also 9a has been mentioned, Hubble by Ben Moon in 1989, was done five years ago and you might wonder why are the first 9a's very seldom repeated nowadays?
Here are the seven first 9a's, after Action Direct, which have just in total been repeated a couple times the last five years.
1993: Om by Alexander Huber, Hugh by Fred Rouhling, Bain de Sang by Fred Nicole
1994: Weisse Rose by Huber
1995: Akira 9b by Fred Rouhling,
1996: Open Air by Huber, The Big Ben by Neil Carson
First of all, the FA guys and all the repeaters long time ago, should be given all the credit. Josune Bereziartu did Bain de Sang 2002 and Ondra has suggested an upgrade for Open Air to 9a+. During 2014, some 60 guys will probably make some 100 9a ascents but are they equally hard as the first 9a's and even Action Directe was originally graded XI which was converted to 8c+/9a.
The possible explenations for why we see more and more 9a ascents but less of the first ones might of course be grade inflation but also that the popular 9a's of today seems to be steeper and longer more endurance based challenges. With all great indoors gyms, it might feel just easier to focus on endurance training. If Güllich Moon and Huber would have tried Era Vella, they might have said it was 9a+.
However, as the grade scale is based on how hard the community thinks different routes are, it might be time to do carry on with some more upgrades of Huber's routes and officially also call Hubble 9a. What do you think? On the picture by Huberbaum, Alex Huber does Om, which originally was 8c+ but Ondra said 9a and possibly, it is a stiff one compared to the 2014 9a standard, or even 9a+?"
-
What do I think? I think jens is short on news. No one can be as big a tit as he makes himself out to be, ergo not a tit at all. Half intelligent really
-
Just be glad that it would be too much effort to read the swedish version of 8a, that's all I'm saying.
-
Apologies if this has been posted elsewhere. Mammut have moved on to classic boulder problems. Done slightly better in my opinion, but no UK problem yet for people to moan about McColl's obvious dab and use of tick marks.
https://youtu.be/-QHkBqHkR6U (https://youtu.be/-QHkBqHkR6U)
https://youtu.be/eMEiOmQ3YBk (https://youtu.be/eMEiOmQ3YBk)
https://youtu.be/u_j2HjG8Fao (https://youtu.be/u_j2HjG8Fao)
-
Can't wait to see the Blind Date and Pinches Wall editions.
-
Can't wait to see the Blind Date and Pinches Wall editions.
Assume you've already done the filming for clouded judgement. Which was flew over to flail on it?
-
Can't wait to see the Blind Date and Pinches Wall editions.
Assume you've already done the filming for clouded judgement. Which was flew over to flail on it?
Si O'Conor.
-
The dreamtime one is great shame you don't see Fred climb on it