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Mammut Reclimbing the Classics (Read 85312 times)

andy popp

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#150 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 05:17:55 pm
Knowing Ben, I don't think anything at all can be read into his demeanour there.

bendavison

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#151 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 05:23:35 pm
I agree with tomtom too, but I was pretty disappointed with the video. Not enough failure or the process of figuring stuff out. Too much on the top section and not enough on the bottom. If I didn't know much about Hubble it would be hard to tell just how hard the bottom is from that.

shark

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#152 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 05:34:20 pm
I agree with tomtom too, but I was pretty disappointed with the video. Not enough failure or the process of figuring stuff out. Too much on the top section and not enough on the bottom. If I didn't know much about Hubble it would be hard to tell just how hard the bottom is from that.

Especially when compared to this

http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/steve-mcclure-hubble

davej

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#153 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 10:20:21 pm
The reliably-crap Gripped magazine obfuscate the outcome here! http://gripped.com/routes/mccoll-climbs-ben-moons-hubble/

Should read mccoll fails to climb Hubble even with a knee pad!

Doylo

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#154 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 10:25:39 pm
I didn't realise the kneebar was for those moves. Moony seemed his normal self to me.

Clart

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#155 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 10:32:43 pm
Ha, notice the total number of ascents has dropped from 6 to 5  :worms:

gme

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#156 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 13, 2014, 11:42:27 pm
The knee bar is worse than I thought. And he still thinks it's 8B+ like this. Must be harder the proper way then.

tim palmer

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#157 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 11:47:14 am
Not great video, but pretty amazing effort from McColl considering it looked absolutely soaking

Stu Littlefair

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#158 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 02:16:14 pm
They're overdoing the wet bit. I was there a lot that week in the evenings and one foothold was damp.

AMorris

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#159 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 04:38:07 pm

The reliably-crap Gripped magazine obfuscate the outcome here! http://gripped.com/routes/mccoll-climbs-ben-moons-hubble/
Ha ... Gripped changed their headline to "McColl attempts ..." from "McColl climbs ...".
That has got to be the shittest opening paragraph I have ever read...

Johnny Brown

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#160 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 05:24:10 pm
I reckon I might conquer Hubble by hook-climbing. Sounds amazing.

Ru

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#161 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 05:53:29 pm
I wonder if the author of that article would pass the Turing Test.

lagerstarfish

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#162 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 06:19:53 pm
how hard is/was it using 2 points of aid?

Ru

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#163 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 06:35:01 pm
how hard is/was it using 2 points of aid?

I don't think it was anything. I think the aid start referred to was the aid start to Whore of Babylon (which was 8a), which went rightwards after the hard bit of Hubble via some holds that have now broken off, then went to the top of the crag. It didn't climb the top bit of Hubble.

lagerstarfish

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#164 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 14, 2014, 06:40:34 pm
Ta

that explains what I was wondering about

Doylo

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#165 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 12:22:34 pm
Jens has declared Hubble Font 8c on the 8a forum  :-\

mindfull

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#166 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 01:49:51 pm
Jens:
"Normally 8B+ is compared to an 8c+ route and based on that some of the best climbers in the world could not do it I say it must be 8C."  :rtfm: :smartass:

petejh

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#167 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 03:06:20 pm
What a fucking cock.

Doylo

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#168 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 03:52:53 pm
Must be 8C+ without a kneepad.

mindfull

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#169 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 04:08:43 pm
Must be 9A WITH a kneepad since not one of the current best climbers of the world succeeded in climbing it WITH said kneepad.  :wall:

Strong reasoning was and is a gift ...  :boohoo:

a dense loner

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#170 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 06:37:57 pm
Lv that article

Doylo

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#171 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 17, 2014, 09:47:02 pm
Interesting reading that article with hindsight. Moony didn't get his way re the grading scale. I bet Super Plafond and Bronx aren't even regarded as soft for 8c+ now.

Bonjoy

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#172 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 18, 2014, 09:25:33 pm
The knee bar is worse than I thought. And he still thinks it's 8B+ like this. Must be harder the proper way then.
:agree: Looks like it makes a big difference. Bit naff how the video/McColl made no mention of this minor detail whatsoever.

Doylo

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#173 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 18, 2014, 09:28:41 pm
Sean Mccolls Twitter :'@mccollsean: Not necessarily easier because it takes a while to put the knee bar in, which is harder than one foot.  it's so hard to put in right, I doubted if it was worth it...'

abarro81

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#174 Re: Mammut Reclimbing the Classics
August 18, 2014, 10:25:23 pm
Never judge a knee without trying.. Tricksy heels look great when they work, same with tricksy knees..

 

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