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« Last post by andy moles on Yesterday at 07:27:58 am »
Many people I know find bouldering grades very frustrating, as an observation, for various reasons.
Bouldering grades are all over the place (except at the higher end maybe, where they are forensically and painstakingly analysed), but I think to some extent this is because something that has only a few moves inevitably highlights differences in physique and relative strengths more than on longer routes, which unless they are quite niche in style or cruxy tend to iron out to a more even consensus. Also sometimes they're just wrong, obvs.
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« Last post by gme on Yesterday at 07:11:08 am »
Amazing in northumberland and for the first time it was better with the naked eye than with a long exposure shot.
I was surprised it was right above us and not to the north, I would go as far as saying slightly south of us. Anyone explain.
No chance of getting a photo that could do it justice as it took up the whole sky.
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« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 06:02:43 am »
That was once in a lifetime. We were in a dark sky spot near Durris Forest and it was at all points of the compass, I couldn't get it all in with a 12mm lens. Seen everywhere in the UK and points south
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« Last post by teestub on Yesterday at 12:50:32 am »
Absolutely mad in the lakes, I take back everything I might have said previously about it all just being long exposure photos!
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Wherever you are, if you have clear skies go out now. Visible even from central sheffield
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« Last post by nik at work on May 10, 2024, 11:40:21 pm »
Currently impressive display around Hathersage, sadly I’m not there…
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« Last post by rodma on May 10, 2024, 07:44:00 pm »
Aurorawatch now says it was amazing at half past the this aftertnoon.
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That has been the opinion given to me by lots of experienced boulderers. I personally think it should and it's stupid if it doesn't, and worse than that it would appear to apply in some cases and not in others, but it's definitely not unusual to hear. In fact the first people who took me outside said, the grade is about physical difficulty, not technical demand.
I like the sound of this, it could be known as the 'Simpson System', in which 'doing' a problem involves pulling on and cranking out a crux power move then stepping off and declaring the problem piss without ever doing it.
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« Last post by Nemo on May 10, 2024, 07:11:23 pm »
Edit:
Too late to modify the eGrader bit in the above. I really shouldn't post when I'm tired.
Actually, the eGrader conversions above are for bolted routes, not trad routes where even for safe cracks they were adding a bit. So my examples were rubbish - it actually works fine for things like Cave Route Right and Requiem.
So actually, their conversion for well protected trad routes, is:
7a+ - 7b routes would be E5
7b+ - 7c routes would be E6
7c+ - 8a routes would be E7
8a+ - 8b routes would be E8
8b+ - 8c routes would be E9
8c+ - 9a routes would be E10
9a+ - 9b routes would be E11
Which is pretty accurate in terms of safe stuff up to a certain point.
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