UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: Muenchener on August 12, 2013, 10:36:24 am
-
Ailefroide ... The bouldering looks ace.
Indeed it does, although we were mostly focused on multipitch routes on our visit two weeks ago. The bouldering sectors are quite scattered and, apart from the obvious and crowded roadside bits, not entirely easy to find so you'll need the local topo, which is available in both the gear shops in Ailefroide.
If you fancy a spot of sport climbing, at grades that will be entirely relaxed for you (up to around 7b or so) Secteur Gorges on the left hand side of the Fissue d'Ailefroide crag is good - steep juggy granite for a change instead of slabby granite - and in the shade in the afternoon. There are also harder sport sectors, including supposedly France's first 8a+ put up in the early 80s by one Edlinger, P.
For really spectacular mountain scenery you need to drive up to the head of the Ailefroide valley and go for a walk towards the Glacier Noir or Glacier Blanc. Our attempt to do a route up there failed miserably due to the classic error of climbing at UK cragging tempo on a 15-pitch alpine route, but as a day day out it was totally worth it for the views.
-
Ailefroide ... The bouldering looks ace.
Indeed it does, although we were mostly focused on multipitch routes on our visit two weeks ago. The bouldering sectors are quite scattered and, apart from the obvious and crowded roadside bits, not entirely easy to find so you'll need the local topo, which is available in both the gear shops in Ailefroide.
If you fancy a spot of sport climbing, at grades that will be entirely relaxed for you (up to around 7b or so) Secteur Gorges on the left hand side of the Fissue d'Ailefroide crag is good - steep juggy granite for a change instead of slabby granite - and in the shade in the afternoon. There are also harder sport sectors, including supposedly France's first 8a+ put up in the early 80s by one Edlinger, P.
For really spectacular mountain scenery you need to drive up to the head of the Ailefroide valley and go for a walk towards the Glacier Noir or Glacier Blanc. Our attempt to do a route up there failed miserably due to the classic error of climbing at UK cragging tempo on a 15-pitch alpine route, but as a day day out it was totally worth it for the views.
Well done on your V111- redpoint (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg416762.html#msg416762)
Thanks for the knowledge. Ive done no research so all welcome though we had been recommended the glacier walk.
Are they any must-do via ferratas we can do as a family? - all of us should be OK up to VS.
Good to know about the steep granite. Any similarly accessible steep and shady limestone?
-
Ailefroide ... The bouldering looks ace.
The bouldering sectors are quite scattered and, apart from the obvious and crowded roadside bits, not entirely easy to find so you'll need the local topo, which is available in both the gear shops in Ailefroide.
Yes, you need the topo, but "quite scattered" is relative! A short walk from the campsite will get you to most areas. It's not like font or the peak where you can drive for up to an hour to reach some crags.
-
Ailefroide is great. Aside from the climbing, it's a very pleasant place to be.
There are reasonable steeper limestone options further down the valley, which are in the area guidebook (can't remember what it's called) rather than the specific Ailefroide guide. In particular I remember a very narrow gorge with routes up both sides, which was worth a visit.
Don't know of any via ferrata...
-
As said above good venue , with all sorts to do. The Bouldering is spread out with some little gems a each spot but not much left to do after two weeks there.(I am sure i have the bouldering guide at home somewhere). There are some good sport venue's and via ferrata and multi pitch stuff as well.
-
lukeyboy do you mean Fressiniere? There is a wealth of standard limestone fare up there, from easy to harder grades, also some cooler shadier spots than down in the valley. Just be aware there is a fair amount of manufactured holds if that sort of thing bothers you. There are also a lot of bolted crags around Argentierre de Besse (sp?) too. Of varying quality.
-
I'm afraid I don't know the name, only a hazy memory from several years ago... it was a narrow gorge about 30 mins down the valley from Ailefroide.
EDIT: Had a look on the other channel and reckon it's probably this place (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9131)
-
Had a few days in Ailefroide last month with my daughter who doesn't climb much, but she really enjoyed the Via Ferrata we did. The guy in Chaud Sport pointed us in the right direction and I think they also hire out Via Ferrata kit if you need it.
The start is just next to the tunnel you go through on the way to Ailefroide, just outside Les Claux.
Nice and cool in the gorge on a hot afternoon and very well equipped.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hUYcdYqzFuE/Uewg27GrePI/AAAAAAAACkY/L0xJDG3g0MQ/w698-h523-no/vf7.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FOPHzKpA_7A/Uewg1eQBfZI/AAAAAAAACkE/lFfXWn56N-w/w698-h523-no/vf4.jpg)
Walk up to the refuge Glacier Blanc, bouldering and Pizza are also highly recommended :).
-
If you fancy a spot of sport climbing, at grades that will be entirely relaxed for you (up to around 7b or so) Secteur Gorges on the left hand side of the Fissue d'Ailefroide crag is good - steep juggy granite for a change instead of slabby granite - and in the shade in the afternoon.
I really enjoyed the few days I spent in Alefroide, camping in the woods amongst the mountains but the sport climbing itself was disappointing. The gorge is OK, but on a horrible scree slope that's not much fun to spend the day on and the routes above 6c+ all have a stopper/cruxy section that takes the fun out of things. We explored the other side of the valley and spent ages looking for the other sport crag which was a massive let down when we found it. Covered in lichen and _very_ esoteric. I wouldn't go back to go sport climbing.
The big slabs to the R below the fissure crag were fun though and your kids will enjoy them (on a top rope).
The sport climbing in Briancon on the way up to Alefroid is supposed to be fantastic. I have a mate that lives there if you want some info.
-
Ailefroide is great. Aside from the climbing, it's a very pleasant place to be....
Just read this... :agree:
-
I wasn't that impressed with the bouldering, a couple of good problems; l'histoire ennuyeuse at the top of the valley was the best of the bunch.
-
Resurrected this to ask two things:
First, if anyone has been bouldering in August there. A quick look at 8a.nu shows loads of ascents in August so I'm assuming it's decent enough conditions then.
Second, if anyone has a guide kicking about they would be happy to scan / photo / pass on.
Thanks
-
Bouldered there plenty in August - can be pretty hot in the day unsurprisingly but mornings and evenings are good!
Don’t have the guide I’m afraid.
-
Resurrected this to ask two things:
First, if anyone has been bouldering in August there. A quick look at 8a.nu shows loads of ascents in August so I'm assuming it's decent enough conditions then.
Second, if anyone has a guide kicking about they would be happy to scan / photo / pass on.
Thanks
We’re planning on this area for summer too so will update this as we get more info
-
Resurrected this to ask two things:
First, if anyone has been bouldering in August there. A quick look at 8a.nu shows loads of ascents in August so I'm assuming it's decent enough conditions then.
Second, if anyone has a guide kicking about they would be happy to scan / photo / pass on.
Thanks
We’re planning on this area for summer too so will update this as we get more info
I bouldered in Ailefroid in the summer years ago, I vaguely remember that it was pretty warm and humid, but ok for about font 7a. Slick granite edges and a few crystally crimps with the odd sloper. Some good problems but not amazing. The quality of the sport climbing is probably quite a lot better if you pick your crags.
-
Resurrected this to ask two things:
First, if anyone has been bouldering in August there. A quick look at 8a.nu shows loads of ascents in August so I'm assuming it's decent enough conditions then.
Second, if anyone has a guide kicking about they would be happy to scan / photo / pass on.
Thanks
We’re planning on this area for summer too so will update this as we get more info
I bouldered in Ailefroid in the summer years ago, I vaguely remember that it was pretty warm and humid, but ok for about font 7a. Slick granite edges and a few crystally crimps with the odd sloper. Some good problems but not amazing. The quality of the sport climbing is probably quite a lot better if you pick your crags.
Bit of a mix is the idea, with the odd long rock route thrown in if I’ve got a partner that isn’t 11 months old
-
I'll keep you posted guy, but we might head out that way. Depends on how things are going with the new one. Currently she seems like a pretty easy going baby, but things change quickly as you know too well!
-
I'll keep you posted guy, but we might head out that way. Depends on how things are going with the new one. Currently she seems like a pretty easy going baby, but things change quickly as you know too well!
Brill, Ged. I can see babies playing in verdant meadows below us as we quest away on the Tête d’aval.
…. Or just go to La Saume. I’d be made up with either.
And congratulations double Dad! Double the dad and double the eye bags :yawn:
-
Yes that's definitely how it would play out. I can't see any potential snags
-
I've been to Ailefroide in August. If you're prepared to drop your grade or climb early morning or late evening it's OK.
The area classic seems to be Surprise du Chef. 7b in the guide but probably worth a plus.
I thought the Via Ferratas nearby were great too.
I've got the Topo des Blocs Ailefroide guide from 2015 - I don't know if there's a more recent one. I don't really want to part with it but I'm Sheffield based if you want to borrow it. I've also got the Cicerone guide that covers the Via Ferratas.
-
Haven't bouldered but rate the conglomerate sport crags, and also agree there were some entertaining via ferratas around about.
-
Bouldered there plenty in August - can be pretty hot in the day unsurprisingly but mornings and evenings are good!
Don’t have the guide I’m afraid.
Great, thanks. Good to know. I guess it also depends on just how hot the summer is. Evening and early morning sessions can work well
-
I've been to Ailefroide in August. If you're prepared to drop your grade or climb early morning or late evening it's OK.
The area classic seems to be Surprise du Chef. 7b in the guide but probably worth a plus.
I thought the Via Ferratas nearby were great too.
I've got the Topo des Blocs Ailefroide guide from 2015 - I don't know if there's a more recent one. I don't really want to part with it but I'm Sheffield based if you want to borrow it. I've also got the Cicerone guide that covers the Via Ferratas.
I have got a 2021 edition now but thanks for the offer. It is labelled by the guide writers as a perfect summer bouldering destination. The morning / evening caveat is probably a realistic one. Thanks