[shark]

11.4-5

M.
T.AM. Cooler 14-15deg Tor with 4 children. No progress on Per Rev. Moved onto Rubicon. Not been there for ages. Sorted sequence for Kudos and got higher than I've been in the past ie set up statically on the opposing sidepulls
W.
T. AM Rubicon with the kids. No progress on Kudos  . Tried a Bigger Tail Didnt get very far and it got hot
F.
S. AM Tor Coolish but still humid. Bit undecided what to do. Went on AM twice and did ok. Optimistically went up a 3rd time. Got inspired watching Ted on Kaabah and then managed to link from the hole on the Prow to clipping the bolt and making reach despite sore tips. Not done that link this year
S. Eve. The usual deadhang, one arm and pinch training session. Got really good scores.

Felt like I got good strength gains this week in bouldering, routes and on the fingerboard which augers well for the Autumn Oak campaign. Aim to get to the Tor this week to have a final attempt at AM then off to Ailefroide/Vallouise on friday night for a fortnight with family (taking the Wedge with me of course). The bouldering looks ace.




 

[nai]

Still away last week so mostly fishing and over-indulging:

M - walked for several hundred miles around a very busy Edinburgh, back was fooked
T - drove to deepest SW Scotland
W - AM slow 9km run with kids on bikes
       PM - checked out Garheugh, far too hot really, slightly disappointing that a.) much of the stuff in the guide has now gone back to nature, and b.) I couldn't climb for Jack, really it was embarrassing, there was a 6B I couldn't do two moves on   

TF - nowt
S drove home, started warming up for something in the evening but felt a slight pop in a PIP    all tweeks had disappeared over the last 2 weeks

S - 10 easy problems workout - 4 reps with 5-10 minutes rest. Terrible performance given I could easily do 5 reps with just 5 minutes rest before the holiday.

[cheque]

I was meant to go down to Portland this weekend but both partners (independently) flaked on me  . Combined with the disappointing Pembroke trip the other week I’ve decided to just stop chasing people who aren’t really keen enough (and as a result are pretty crap at climbing) as all it results in is at worst total frustration and at best a little bit of challenging climbing. This will probably mean more bouldering and solo training, at least in the short term, but can only be better for the satisfaction I get from my climbing.

Anyway, I've responded to this frustration by getting really into training for my for 3 week Red River Gorge trip in October.

Wish list -

1-Endurance ‘for days’ on steep, juggy/ open-handed rock.
2-Ability to recover on a jug on steep ground
3-Ability to do a steep 6A/ 6A+ when pumped silly
4-Psyche and ability to go “a muerte” even when pumped and facing massive but safe whipper
5-Stoic tolerance of caffeinated soft drink and pizza

M- Depot circuit board. Doing pink circuit (“6b+”, I can essentially do it with my eyes shut) with added sections of blue circuit (“7a”) to add harder moves when pumped. Started redpointing blue circuit too. Target for these sessions is to get so pumped that I feel sick, as that’s what was happening all the time in the Red last year. Mission accomplished today!

T- Rest

W- Depot circuit board. Sent blue circuit first go. This is actually the first 7a I’ve successfully redpointed this year…  Repeated it three times, going into pink circuit afterwards. Managed blue into pink once. Devised little lopps of tough climbing going up the board then downclimbing on jugs tryin to recover as much as possible- did them a lot.  Started working purple (“7b+”) circuit- has cool moves on it and feels consistently hard rather than cruxy so psyched for it. Did some repeaters and some bouldering after.

T-Swiss ball core

F- Depot circuit board. Linked pink circuit into blue, then pink then part of blue again. Good nausea-inducer! Repeated three times with progressively less of the second blue lap done each time. Worked purple circuit- some progress. Repeaters.

S-Decided Higgar Tor was a good idea as it’s the closest the Peak has to the Red. Arrived at the leaning block to realise that even though this is true, it’s not really that similar! Surprisingly good conditions there though. Went up and down the start of the Rasp then got on Witness the Gritness- a cool problem but had to stop due to wearing a little hole in my thumb. Some other stuff at Higgar Tor East but less windy there and the sun came out.

S-Depot. Same as Friday but getting telltale stingy forearm feeling that tells me it’s time for a rest day. Not getting pumped on anything- just powering out. Did 30-problem purple bouldering circuit without resting to finish.

9 days into 2 month Red training program and it’s going well. Last Saturday to this Friday's circuit progress was probably the amazing initial progress spike you get when you start a new traninig regime though. Ate 3 pizzas this week too . Going to vary the training from next week- arranged a weekly indoor ropes session with a keen partner and will attempt 4x4s, pyramids and other indoor bouldering routes-traning that I’ve never done before too, if only to ease the inevitable tedium of the Depot circuit board.

[Luke Owens]

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Back at Dinbren on the F7b+ proj, after the beta tweaks last week I was really confident I'd be very close or get it very soon. Sure enough I found myself falling off the very last hard move at the top of the crag on all 3 redpoints this eve.

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - Rest

Friday - Dinbren - Had that feeling where I knew I'd do the route... Cool temps, quiet evening at the crag, psyched belayer & nervous but positive energy. First redpoint of the eve I fell at the same high point as Tuesday but something felt different, it felt like I was still warming up.

Second redpoint, smashed it! Felt great to have the route so wired. My first F7b+ and my goal for this year achieved!

The route is "I Punched Judy First" I've put up a video in the Non-Quality thread!

What's next? F7c!

Saturday - Rest

Sunday - Deadhangs - up to 15kg on the 3 finger open handed, 9secs. Also on 5kg added for the Middle 2 on 25mm edge for 7secs. Good progress!

[Eddies]

Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Tuesday: Chapel – 4x4’s and full circuits
Wednesday: 3 sets of 10x17kg bicep curls on each arm - 3 sets of 30 lengths of the swimming pool and a final set of 10 lengths to bring the total up to 100 lengths. 5-10min rests in the steam room between sets!
Thursday: Rubicon – Onsighted ‘Rubicon’ f7a Went home early as mission accomplished
Friday: REST
Saturday: Cheedale – Max Wall
Sunday: REST

[fried]

Monday - Folks are climbed out, so we have a wander around Rocher des demoiselles.
Tuesday - Decide to head back to Paris for a couple of days as the weather is looking  dodgy, the kids hear the word 'wifi' and they're packed in seconds.
Wednesday - Paris, les grands serres
Thursday - First batch of family leave and me and the missus actually have a bit of peace. Late afternoon session at Sablons, really nice, feeling good and floated up some blues.
Friday - Morning at Elephant, more blues and try 'surplomb de lepreux', fail to get from the sloper to the top, but happy because I couldn't even pull onto the problem last year. Afternoon at Rocher Saint-Germain where I climb dreadfully and fail to find any holds on anything, probably due to the morning session.
Saturday - Buthiers piscine - New family have arrived, so I take them off to do the easiest yellow circuit that exists, then once the kids are entertained I take the Bro-in-law and nephew off do do some of the orange circuit. Nice day out, followed by a demi in the canard.
Sunday - Last day so I decide a visit to Cuvier is in order, very humid and I, as usual climb like shit,do some of the orange circuit, fail to leave the ground on 'Nescafe'. I need a couple of days rest, I ache.

Only 3 weeks of holiday left and  no more family to entertain

[Muenchener]

STG: Redpoint UIAA VIII-. Welsh trad E2 in September.
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

An involuntary rest week due to school holidays & childcare turns out well

M:
T:
W: Knee / mobility / bodyweight exercises.
T:
F: Knee / mobility / bodyweight exercises. Broomstick upper back & neck extension improved from 2 x 15 last week to 2 x 22 this week. Target is 2 x 50
S: Frankenjura, Hexenküche. Redpointed Devil Wall, my first VIII-, in three goes. YYFY 
S: Frankenjura, Elfenwelt. Was powered out from Saturday so mostly stuck to a few casual easy routes and belaying friends. Should have entirely stuck to casual easy routes and not gone on a 6b with a mono crux. Now I have a sore A2 pulley nnfn. Was without sound effects though so hopefully not torn.

[Aussiegav]

Mon:
Burbage bridge to High Neb car park and back. along top of edge and causeway.
1 hr 13 mins, 8.96 km
   
beast maker Finger Board session
5x 15s (hold 1) 5x 15s (hold 4) 5x 5s (hold 15) 3 finger shared 5x 5s (hold 6) 2 finger open hand 5x 5s (holds 4 +11) left arm closed crimp 5x 5s (holds 4 +11) right arm closed crimp 5x 5s (hold 11) open hand

Tues: AM
3km Graves Park Run
16 mins 5 secs, 3.15 km   
Followed by:
25 crunches 50 bicycles 50 back-scratchers 50 rotating crunches 25 leg-lowers 50 scissor-kicks 50 side-crunches 50 bicycles 50 back-scratchers

PM: Indoor climbing @ the mini works
did the grade 5 circuit and the 6b to 6c.

Wed:
Repeat 4 times:
Dumbbell Lunge for 30s on each leg.
Split Lunge for 30s
Dragon Walk for 45s
Shoulder tap push-up for 45s

Rest for 3 minutes.
Run for 20 minutes 11km/hr.

Finger Board
6 sets of 5 pullups on finger board hold 4

Thurs: Rest day

Fri:
850m run + 1 minute of each exercise with 10 seconds rest in between: push-up, curl-up, inverted pull-up, plank, squat jump, fence jump (repeat entire set three times no rests)

Sat:
Graves Park Run: 5km + 15 burpees every 5mins
27 mins 34 secs,

Finger Board
5x10s (hold 4)
6 sets of 5 pullups (hold 4)
followed by 25 crunches 50 bicycles 50 back-scratchers 50 rotating crunches 25 leg-lowers 50 scissor-kicks 50 side-crunches 50 bicycles 50 back-scratchers

Sun:
Spin Bike
40 mins
Warm up for 10 minutes in zone 2.
6 rounds:
Ride 3 minutes. (85% MaxHR)
Ride 1 minute. (65% Max HR)
Cool down 10 minutes.

yoga 20mins

[webbo]

Mon. Board did one of my projects before splitting a tip.
Tu. Nothing.
Wed. Bike 1 hour with 10 secs sprint 50 secs rest x 4 20 secs sprint 40 secs rest x4 30 secs sprint 30 secs rest x 4.
Thu. Board did mirror session 41 problems in total.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Visit to my mates secret crag which was an hour uphill walk. Great spot did various things including 3 problems at about 6c+. Well knackered after the trek back to the car.
Sun. Bike 50 miles 2 hrs 46 mins 18.20 mph. well windy.

[kelvin]

Nice work Luke... onwards to 7c eh?

Cheque - that's the sort of focused training I need to be doing, so just went down the boulder room and hardly stopped for an hour and a half, had a rest and then tried the hard stuff. Cheers for the inspiration.

Working flat out at the minute - just had 2 days off in 34 now, so the arms are falling off (decorator) and I feel pretty bone tired.

Did three sessions in the boulder room. Flashed a couple of V2s I'd not done, managed another couple I'd not completed and generally been pretty happy with everything I tried. Made sure I repeated the V2s as well.
Managed some pullups on the Metolius slopers! This is a massive improvement when I couldn't even manage a pullup back in January. 

Got out for a run too. Plus a fingerboard session, after warmup, of 4 sets of 14 x7/3 with foot on. Used the smallest campus rail for a lot of that.

So despite being shattered, it was probably a good week but with only five weeks till Spain... I need to be trying harder.

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 76   
Indoor: 3 
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 19

Some good progress being made by Luke and Meuncher up above

Me & MrsTT got away to the Llyn tuesday > thursday for a small holiday, staying in a B&B in Abersoch, so not too far from Porth Ysgo... I managed to persuade MrsTT that the wee beach just around the corner from Ysgo would be suitable for her needs (sand, sea, abcence of crowds) and having deposited her there I skipped over the rocks of the small headland round to the main area... It was warm (about 23-25), tide was out and I was excited. Too excited, I ran around the first few boulders trying everything I could in sight with no real thought (though plenty of effort) and after about 30 min felt like I had mild heatstroke! I then went and hid in a nice shady corner for a bit and calmed down!

I made progress on problems that had evaded me in my first visit (Jawbreaker, Popcorn Party) but really it was a bit of a futile trip. I was climbing with 100% enthusiasm, but 0% thought... One of those days when I was trying to climb much harder than my body and mind was capable of that day. And it was warm, and I ran out of water after an hour Still, Jawbreaker felt less impossible than last time - its just a large campus really - and frustratingly I managed the bottom half of PP (using the correct lying down start on the low slot) but just couldnt get the top part worked out - then my arms and fingers got tired. I retired to have a slap up Fast Cars (ha - great thing to try and do on a warm day - slopey arete slapping) but there was a still decomposing cow wedged behind the boulder - so I wandered along to Brain Spray (I think) and pulled hard on warm black slopey crimps. To no avail.. never mind - I was now in milage mode and wandered back to the beach. There I had one of the nicest swims I've had in ages.. the water must have been only 15-16 degrees but what a great way to cool down after a hot afternoons bouldering... pure bliss. I love the spot... Margaritas' and Fish Taco's at Mañana in the evening \o/ and a good day on balance.

That night I swatted up on the Popcorn Party video beta and realised where I was going wrong could easily be fixed. After some negotiations with MrsTT I managed to get out early the next morning and had a quick hour down on the blocs. Tide was in - but aside from the odd playful splash on the bouldering mats it was OK - but I was still trashed from the day before. I had one decent attempt but my fingers were screaming at me pulling on that lovely rough gabbro....


Porth Ysgo at high tide

Time to head back to civilisation - I love the Llyn - its a special, mystical place - despite the fact that parts of it were awash with summer holiday makers..

So back to (just) sunny Manchester... Saturday was due to be my next day out - and I fancied heading back to Farleton, but come Saturday morning I couldnt really face a longish drive - so mooched about all day listening to the cricket then headed down to Harmers for about 4:30 to meet Andy and give him a spot on his project.. Andys project as wet - and whilst he got stuck into scrubbing some dirty green rib I went in to the main quarry to have a crack at the eliminate project I've been working for a while.... The hard move is high up, but you can get set on it using a large slot from the problem next door... I managed to get the problem done with slot (a stiff 7A I recon) and myself and Andy had many attempts without the slot - we could both get up to the hard part but lacking the comfort of being able to set up for the hard move from an easy hold seemed to make all the difference... and we tired - and gave up.. So I think its but a matter of time before that goes and should make the line 7A+ without the slot... Nice moves, and I'll write it up more when the problem has been done properly...

Anyway... enough rambling


Ty Coch

[Duma]

Nice one Luke and Muenchener.

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Sleep loads.
T - Sleep good.
W - Run 6 m 50 min. Sleep ok.
T - watch finals at TCA comp. psyche must have some training benefit. sleep ok.
F - Run 6 m 50 min. Sleep ok.
S - Daughter all day. Poor sleep (she woke up early).
S - Cheddar with cha1n, lukeh, b3n99, and a few others. Lion Rock, Valley of the Blind and Circus Circus(brilliant description on UKC) both second go/1st redpoint (what's the accepted term?). Got all the moves on The Lion Sleeps Tonight too - feels a way of though. Sleep ok.

69kg.

So positive side: Slept well, ran a bit, lost a bit of weight, good day out on Sunday - Valley of the Blind is ace and Circus Circus is prob the hardest route I've done since 2006!
Negative: Finger still sore despite 9 days off - booked appt with Physio Tuesday.

Sleep key: poor < 6.5hrs; ok 6.5hrs - 7.5hrs; good 7.5hrs - 8.5hrs; loads > 8.5hrs

[Luke Owens]

Nice work Luke... onwards to 7c eh?

Cheers! The 7c campaign starts this evening!

S: Frankenjura, Hexenküche. Redpointed Devil Wall, my first VIII-, in three goes. YYFY 

Top effort on the VIII!

[iain]

Good effort Muenchener, that must feel good.

And congrats as well Luke, you really did cruise it.


STG: Infinite Gravity before Sept>mid-October or the weather crapping out, whichever is first.
Get down to 62kg by 7th Sept, 63.3 this morning.

2 weeks worth:

Mon: Short max hangs lunch time, Works in the evening on yellow type circuit with odd go on white. Up to about 6B-C maybe given circuit descriptions. Felt disappointing but consoled myself with the thought that I am now in the land of real grades.

Tues: Works circuits. Managed everything up to 7a+ and tried to do reps on one of the 7b+ without much success. Flash go was the best falling at the end, which turned out to be the crux. Subsequent 2 attempts were poor.

Wed: Rest

Thurs: Short max hangs lunch time. Works circuits evening. The 7b+ was too hard on Tues so went for more volume, got on the 6c+ and tried a rep every 5 minutes. Managed 5 clean, 6th with longer rest, 7th and 8th completed with rests part way round.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Rest

Sun: Burbage south boulders in the morning with S. Managed a sit start given 6C and lost the race with the approaching rain whilst trying to piece together a 7A. Works in afternoon, ok session but felt tired.

Was satisfying week but endurance level is way off where it needs to be. However, skin was really sore so decided to take have a slower week.



Mon: Rest

Tues: Short max hangs lunch time. Foundry eve for routes with S, had a great time. Kept getting on good looking routes rather than focussed training but still managed what felt like a good session. 13ish routes, 4 clean onsight 6c-7a, failed on 7a+ and 6c at the end. Given the previous week this felt like an improvement. First time on a rope in 2 months.

Wed: Rest

Thurs: Works. Was meant to be circuits but after warming up decided skin and psyche was more suited to bouldering. Felt stronger than previous week although probably similar difficulty. Finished with 2 3/4 laps on 6c+ circuit as a final pump out.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Kilnsey for the first time in 6 years, brilliant to be back. 6c (failed) and 6c+ to warm up then got on Dominatrix. Been on this once before and had a really hard time but first go today went well with all the moves feeling controlled. Had a brief moment of optimism for a quick redpoint but 2nd go powered out before the crux and 3rd go the same. Spent the time refining sequences instead and think I'm sorted for next time out.

Sun: Rest.

It was great being back at Kilnsey but given my stg it doesn't bode well that I wasn't able to make good redpoint attempts on Dominatrix, and bouldering I don't feel as strong as I need to be. Training goals for next 2 weeks are short, quality bouldering sessions and easier, higher volume circuits. As many sessions as my body feels able to do.

[Dolly]

Yet another week working long hours away from home with little chance to do anything.
I've put on weight, my skin is baby soft and I'm knackered and grumpy. Grrrr
M
T
W Weights in the hotel room. Boiling hot. Probably over compensated and did too much as I ached for 2 days afterwards
T Run in the morning before work
F
S Caley in the afternoon. Best laid plans to climb near Marsden disappeared. Did lots of easier problems at the crag end and enjoyed myself. Although it was warm it was actually OK and it wasn't midgy
S Work interrupted again so plans were shelved as I couldn't get out till lunchtime. Some easy routes down the dale at Blackwell Halt and Runyon's Corner. Tried to get to the lifts but the path was hopelessly overgrown. I can't imagine anyone can or has climbed there recently which is a bit of a shame

[tomtom]

No more climbing in pants this week Dolly?

Whilst lying at a baking hot largely deserted Porth Ysgo last week I did contemplate naked bouldering. It must be some sort of Welsh rock influence

[Dolly]

Just weights in undies in the hotel room. (Stuff you never thought you'd type)
I drew the line at naked bouldering - bit wary of falling off on the mat at the er...wrong angle.
I remember Quent years ago soloing Oedipus at Froggatt naked when we thought no-one was there (Seb was taking pics) until a family came round the corner and it was a bit embarrassing. (Quent didn't seem the slightest bit bothered though)

[Muenchener]

Weights in the hotel room.

How do you get the weights to the hotel room? Do you travel with a 200kg suitcase, or borrow them from the hotel gym? Why not just lift them in the hotel gym? 

[tomtom]

I drew the line at naked bouldering - bit wary of falling off on the mat at the er...wrong angle.
I remember Quent years ago soloing Oedipus at Froggatt naked when we thought no-one was there (Seb was taking pics) until a family came round the corner and it was a bit embarrassing. (Quent didn't seem the slightest bit bothered though)

Yup - I guess if you caught the edge you could snag a plum... At Ysgo I was more worried about potential for some top out chaffage on that Gabbro..

Though as it transpired I neither bouldered naked or managed to top out on anything

[Dolly]

Weights in the hotel room.

How do you get the weights to the hotel room? Do you travel with a 200kg suitcase, or borrow them from the hotel gym? Why not just lift them in the hotel gym? 

I was in Aberystwyth. Not many (or any) hotels with gyms I don't think. Took dumbells in the car. I'm not very strong do they don't need to be very heavy

[duncan]

Week 180

Stupidly busy week - host visiting Vikings, attend 5 Wagner operas, negotiate Wagnerian work issues, write grant application, remind offspring of my existence before disappearing again. Theoretically I could grab some climbing on Wednesday or Thursday but probably wiser to conserve energy. It’s times like this when I really miss living close to real rock.

As above (W - Fairlop boulders - bonding with offspring prior to my disappearance).

Week 181
M - Fly to Milan. Luggage including all camping and climbing gear does not fly to Milan. (Failed to) sleep in hire car at the airport.
T - Give up waiting for luggage. Drive to Canazei. Buy the cheapest stove, cooking kit, tent (€30), sleeping bag (€8!) and mat available from decathlon. Stove and tent were ideal, bag and mat a little too economical resulting in chilly nights.  Buy rope, harness and quickdraws from Amplaz Sports in Canazei, one of the best and friendliest climbing shops I’ve ever frequented.
W - Big Michelluzi (VI, 350m) - ‘guide style’ on fixed gear only. Great fun, like a giant Debauchery, much less polished than expected.


Hugo goes native on the Big Mich.

T - Delenda Carthago (6b, 180m) - excellent 7 pitch sport route on S. Face of the 1st Sella Tower.
F - Rest day: whole-body aches and shivers, coughing green stuff, probably inevitable after so much aggravation over the previous 10 days. Gear arrives - hurrah! Proper sleeping mat means a decent night's sleep at last.
S - Messner route, N. Face 2nd Sella Tower (VI-, 220m). Great route and not a push-over. Reinhold was quite handy wasn’t he?
S - Ottovolante [“Rollercoaster” - an apt name for the holiday], (7a/+, 400m) N. Face Torre Brunico (Sella Group) as recommended by HaeMeS. Good report here.  This is a really excellent route (and the nearby Oro e Carbone looks even better). It also gave us the confidence that something big might be on...


Ottovolante takes the skyline buttress


Ottovolante crux

Week 182
M - Rest day
T - Hasse-Brandler! YYFY!!
W - Drive to Milan, fly to London
T - Fly to Munich
F - Beer and strudel.
S - Beer, strudel and Das Rheingold at Bayreuth (another YYFY and long-standing ambition).
S - Beer and strudel.

What to say about the Hasse-Brandler? It was a long-standing ambition realised and a magnificent route thoroughly deserving it’s kudos. Both of us took rests on 2 of the steep pitches so we have to go back for the red-point. It didn’t help that it was gopping wet but I suspect it is nearly always like this and is graded accordingly. However, we managed ‘team-free’ ascent, the two parties ahead were hanging all over it, we were both somewhat under-prepared - not helped by the luggage debacle, and I had a chest infection. I’m pretty happy with our style of ascent.


Hasse pitch 3


Hasse pitch 8 crux


Hasse pitch 10


Hasse pitch 11

The climbing mostly felt easy for the grade or perhaps I just climb better on big routes? I absolutely love being up on these faces and feel so at home on them. The route seemed like a couple of Avon E2-3s, followed by Soul Sacrifice in the wet, twice, followed by several Swanage HVSs. With just a little more stamina I felt both of us could have done it free. If, if, if...

The good weather brought out two teams and a (rope-)soloist on the Comici, a team on ISO2000, two teams ahead of us on the Hasse-Brandler, a Korean group on one of the hard routes to the left of us (the Camillotto-Pellesier?), and a trail of parties up the Dibona arete. It is still a serious place though: one of the Koreans fell on the descent, dislodging a microwave oven in my direction and probably breaking his leg. We called for a helicopter and he was evacuated with impressive panache. The delay waiting for the rescue and extra caution following a near-miss made it a slow descent.


Korean party on Camillotto-Pellesier?

Although the gear delay was not ideal and we were tight for time this was a tremendous trip. We managed a good range of routes from old classics to modern multi-pitch sport climbs. It was hot the whole time (35C in the valleys) and weather was never a big issue other than making south facing routes like ovens. The Marmolada was never on...next time perhaps?

[Muenchener]

Sounds like a great trip, and a nice write-up

W - Big Michelluzi (VI, 350m) - ‘guide style’ on fixed gear only. Great fun, like a giant Debauchery, much less polished than expected.

T - Delenda Carthago (6b, 180m) - excellent 7 pitch sport route on S. Face of the 1st Sella Tower.
S - Messner route, N. Face 2nd Sella Tower (VI-, 220m). Great route and not a push-over. Reinhold was quite handy wasn’t he?

All high on my to-do list.

One hears a bit about Dolomite bolt wars, so I always feel a bit doubtful about what state routes like Delenda Carthago might be in unless I've heard first hand reports.

[Wood FT]

T - Hasse-Brandler! YYFY!!

Excellent, thanks for the write up. Now suffering from trip envy.

[Fiend]

Good effort Duncan.

All about the Decathlon inflatable mattresses, 15 Euros and pretty damn comfy. Not THAT bulky either, although inflating one with a chest infection might be the crux.

[T_B]

Been on hols, so late update...

STG - To be fit enough to do some DWS in August
LTG - Get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

85Kg

M - Lunch - Campussing and deadhanging. P.M. Works - Green 8b on the comp wall in two sections.
T -
W - Lunch - Just deadhanging. Noticeably stronger than when I combine with campussing. P.M. Works - a longer link on the 8b
T -
F - beach
S - beach
S - Bit of messing about at the Cuttings, Portland. Hot!