[nai]

But having only one mat I didnt really commit to any of the moves with a high heel (i.e. most of the moves) - that pointy rock below the end of the traverse that slopes down into the gulley really needs a spotter.

Did this by myself. Just saying. (mtfu)

How many mats?...  Just askin..

Keen to start an Underhand seige soon so let's hook up when you go up there for a crack at the extension...

Cool - will do.

I may= remember some vertically challenged beta from when RobL was doing it..

VC key beta for me was not to try hitting the more positive RH slot (at 22s), just behind it there's a bigger one that's easier to hit and plenty good enough.  Then it's just a matter of timing the lunge.

[Boredboy]

 

Sounds right to me, when I saw the 1-9 video it didn't look like the school's 1-9, based on the old 1-5-9 footage.

[tomtom]

VC key beta for me was not to try hitting the more positive RH slot (at 22s), just behind it there's a bigger one that's easier to hit and plenty good enough.  Then it's just a matter of timing the lunge.

For me I went up to an average edge/crimp in the break immediately after the RH on the boss (go up after the slap to the boss) them move LH along the break to the good slot. Saved having to go up and left to the slot - up then left if that makes sense.. For shorties the trickier bit to work out (apart from that crux move) was getting established with some slightly different foot/crimp beta..

[kelvin]

Managed three sessions in the boulder room that finished with a freshly pulled muscle in the back of the knee somewhere. Heel hooking on the 45deg has been banned by my physio but sometimes... anyways. Managed another V2, got two left and the top moves just need me to man up for. Finally go the starting moves done on the crimpy 30deg V4! Well happy with that - seems it was just finger strength and core. My technique had been right from the off, which is nice to know.

Sat - Finally off work! Stanage, teaching Mel to build belays and seconding her up easy stuff. Led Green Wall VS at Popular but ended up aiding the wet and green gloppy ledge! Ha.
Sun - Led Scorpion Slab HS at Strangler clean, then did Slab and Crack VS Direct but knew I'd have to sit at the undercut to work how out to use the dodgy wrist properly. Made that move first attempt, so chuffed. Wanted to try the E1 5c on the slab but time was running out and a combination of other factors meant it just didn't feel the moment to be pushing grades. It'll go at some point.

Grit is still a mystery. I just can't work it out and don't have the jamming skills or the psyche for it to be honest. I think the fact that slate is my favourite rock may just tell a story...