UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 08, 2010, 01:00:10 pm
-
1st Sesh on the Proj (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/1st-sesh-on-proj.html)
8 April 2010, 11:27 am
Went down LPT yesterday to try a world class piece of rock that no man had ever attempted before. I was excited and very hopeful that the resin had set properly! It was great to finally try the sequences that i had envisaged from the ab rope. I spent a while on the obvious crux which is on the first bit of steepness. There are holds but i couldn't come up with a decent sequence. I'm sure there's a way but it is defo hard. Above things went a bit better, it climbed much differently than i had thought. One really obvious pinch for the right i ended up taking with my left. It was coming together fast, some quite long moves on it. Anyway i did most of the moves up to the lip where two small crimps must be utilised (didn't want to risk splitting my tip with upcoming holiday). Turns out you rock leftwards into the LA belay, but thats not it as above is a really nice slabby English 6a headwall which takes you to the top of the crag. Climbing direct into this headwall without rocking left would be artificial and a lot harder too, kind of Big Bang-esque. It felt natural the way i did it. So to sum it up roughly its about 7b to the crux which is probably font 7c or 7c+ (certainly harder than anything on Liquid Ambar). To the top from there is probably 8b or 8b+. So if i put those figures into the gradeometer it comes out as 8c+, maybe?????? So good though and not one that i'll be interested in giving away, was hard work bolting it! Went up to the Cave after, haven't felt too springy and fresh since that day i got to the shot. Did Trigger Cut, decided it didn't go down easy enough and left (soon will be back though).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6280736252460438146?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Margalef 1 (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/margalef-1.html)
11 April 2010, 6:30 pm
Quick rundown, climbing like shit. Getting spanked on everything, nice n sunny though. Pocket strength feeling surprisingly shit. Long routes are too long and the short routes are too short. Enjoying Darwin apart from the mono which fuckin hurts, trying to get my head round it. No hard moves but a tricky link especially with the clips which are hard. Might just seige it till go home, very fun indeed. miss the orme(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1563533011423249114?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Margalef 2 (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/margalef-2.html)
16 April 2010, 10:06 am
Well the first week has passed fairly unsucessfully on the redpoint front. The other two are looking good on their respective projects. I don't have a project, i'm sacking Darwin as i've stopped improving (never have such jugs been so hard to link!). Gonna spend the last week doing easier stuff and trying to flash stuff. Had a fun day yesterday trying to flash a few things. Got halfway up a power endurance 7c+ called Aeroplastica, unsurprisingly i got pumped and fell off. Good fun though. Had a few wad ticks. Saw Andrada do the 8c+ version of Dementia Senil yesterday. Very beastly indeed. Caught up with Davey G again and Chad and Jon Cardwell. Dave good value as always. Other beast sightings include Maja Vindmar and Enzo Oddo. Very nice crags here but the pockets are fucking painful after a while. Pic of sausage almost doing a 4 bolt 8b:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2514706847133652579?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Margalef 3 (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/margalef-3.html)
19 April 2010, 12:05 pm
Well since we've been here some volcano in Iceland has fired its wad into the atmospehere. So dunno when i'm gonna be getting home, got lots of footage of people falling off stuff, quite amusing. The best has to be sausage falling off the slab of Cara in Siurana, he did it next go. I'll keep trying to climb shit but i'm losing the will if truth be told. Fucking pockets!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4670011899476916540?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Margalef 4 (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/margalef-4.html)
20 April 2010, 12:47 pm
The climbers out here are impressive. Good chicks start at about 8b and the really good one (Maja Vindmar!!!) onsight 8b+! Its another world, saw some chicks chilling out on Darwin yesterday,swinging around, combined age of 20 or something! Standards are high, for the blokes things start to get tricky at about 8c. I nearly done two 8as now (combined height 15 metres), LOOK AT ME!!!!!!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7676578431716066644?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Home And Dry (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/home-and-dry.html)
26 April 2010, 8:29 pm
Well we made it back via our scheduled flight luckily. Last go psyche or shit or bust failed to get us up anything. Ben never quite made it to the mono again on Darwin (on his best effort he had fell on the move just after the mono). Wasn't meant to be this time. Sausage dropped the end of a few more things (he woz robbed). I almost gave up the will to live as my poor form continued. At the end it was just too painful, our skin could take no more. Looking back i wish i'd stuck with my original strategy, instead of trying to climb hard i should of lowered my grade and tried to build some fitness up on the longer stuff. I was tricked by feeling strong in the Cave! Oh well you live and learn.
To add insult to injury i have returned in the worst shape i've been in for ages. I ate about 16 slabs of chocolate out there, so put on 3/4 pounds. Bad bad news. In the cave today i could barely pull onto anything. Bad bad bad. The orme was minty mint though. Fresh, clear and dry. Went down LPT yesterday with mini Pickles. Hung on the crux section of the project i bolted again. It must be font 7c+ minimum, it makes the crux of Liquid Ambar look like playschool! Might have to give this one to the highest bidder in time. Will get back on it when i'm climbing strong, should have a better idea then. Nails! Good to get back to the beach though. Pete was trying Youthanasia, sounded hard!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-691000618924766487?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Orme and the Old School (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/orme-and-old-school.html)
4 May 2010, 6:19 pm
Have been hammering the cave since my last post trying to get back into shape. When you can't do the sections of your project you have to go back to basics: Rockatrocity, Lou Ferrino etc... It has been quite useful getting used to these again as they are integral parts of some of the links i want to do when i'm going well. Also managaged to get into Broken Heart from The Wire and almost managed the magic hat trick the other day (RA/LF/TC). Today i was back up to speed and back on redpoint thank the lord! Had quite a few good go's, almost getting to the shot once or twice. Its full steam ahead now to good climbing form, i have a strong desire to experience that feeling of climbing well at your limit and ultimately ticking things at your limit. I can just about remember what that feels like. Belayed Pete on Masterclass, this Moffatt route on Mayfair Wall was graded 7c+ but is regarded as 8a these days. Pete had a bit of a tussle with the crux move describing it as 'hard'. It got me thinking, everything from the 80s and early 90s is fuckin nails and the grades are very stiff compared to modern grades. Pete had just come back from Kalymnos where he had onsighted 8a, he said the difference was significant. He also did an 8b in Greece on the quick, think he's had about 3/4 sessions on Youthanasia, Steve Mayers 8b which Pete descirbed as 'as intense as Melancholie but halfway up the crag'! And then there is Oyster, Jerry's 7c+ on Mayfair, Jesus for 7c+ this is something else. Makes Mussel Beach and Rodney God 8a on the Cutaway look like a 7b+. It seemed to me that out of the 3 hard moves on Mayfair it could be the case that Oyster 7c+ is the hardest nd my route Masterplan the easiest. Dyer assured me thats this isn't the case but there is definetely two grading systems at work on the Ormes and probably in Britain.
pic of Gav on Pill Thrill 7a+:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1248241311807565991?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Spanish Crush Vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/spanish-crush-vid.html)
5 May 2010, 11:17 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1957249490927709878?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Spanish Crush Vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/spanish-crush-vid.html)
5 May 2010, 11:17 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1957249490927709878?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
That is one of my favourite mini climbing vids ever!!! Quite refreshing, honest and made me smile alot. :thumbsup:
-
Spanish Crush Vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/spanish-crush-vid.html)
5 May 2010, 11:17 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1957249490927709878?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
That is one of my favourite mini climbing vids ever!!! Quite refreshing, honest and made me smile alot. :thumbsup:
You just loved the music ;)
-
Melancopout (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/melancopout.html)
7 May 2010, 4:08 pm
Managed a fun new training link downstairs today. Melancopout starts up Melancholie to the undercuts then steps right and finished up Bad Boy. I'm giving it soft 8a+, its probably 8a to the undercuts. Was quite chuffed mainly because i've only got through the start of Melancholie once or twice since i did it almost 6 years ago so felt good. Was an all out effort though, luckily managed to get enough back on the jug of BB to finish it. Am determind to get Melancholie wired with the end result hopefully being the Melancholie/Pas de Deux link- seems a long way at the moment though. So this was a good one to start with even though its not really that significant. Was good nick today, perfect temps and dry.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3577849359573804321?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Old Projects (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/old-projects.html)
10 May 2010, 7:31 pm
Am feeling knackered after 5 days on. Things are on the up though, i can feel things starting to happen. Went back down LPT on Sunday, this time to try Melancopout again with a view into linking it into the top of Mussel Beach. I've wanted to do this for years but have never had the confidence to get back on it such is the crimpy nature of Melancholie. Also i've never done the crux of MB particularly well so when you can't do the start and you find the end hard it is not a recipe for success. Getting through Mel start the other day gave me the confidence however and i was keen to try MB again. I dogged up and sorted the moves then had a redpoint. Err, well i hadn't sorted the moves enough and i fucked up my feet on the redpoint crux turning the lip on Mussel. Was really happy to get there though. Did the Mel start a lot easier though which was satisfying and quite important and i'm not quite fit enough to get much back on the BB jug. I almost did this climb in 2005 so will be nice to tick it. LPT is definitely entering the link up age. Its got a long way to go to catch up with the tor, Malham and Kilsney but there are some brilliant link up routes to do. Not forgetting the last two independent lines either, what a crag. Fifth day on was spent in the Cave, wasn't feeling sprightly enough for Broken Heart/TC so got on another old proj, Broken Heart/Sams Finish. Have been trying this sporadically for over a year. I think it could possibly be the worlds hardest link up. But it shouldn't be!!! But it is!!!! Ahhhhh. Anyway fell off the last move once more going up to the sidepull. Will be a happy man when i do this one.
Pic of me downstairs courtesy of Dave P:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8200842798389373659?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
A55 Sport Climbs (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/a55-sport-climbs.html)
12 May 2010, 12:28 pm
Over the last few years there has been much development on the crags that run alongside the A55 in North Wales. Most significantly my old king started the ball rolling by kicking off development at the crag underneath the old 70 degrees hotel in Colwyn Bay. Others got involved and there are now over 50 sport climbs up to 7a+ at Penmaenhead. It catches the afternoon sun and there are some big lines as well as some lovely flowstone. Llanddulas Cave and Castle Inn have also had a bit of a makeover with lots of rebolting and some new routes. All this development is documented in my dads guide which has been a labour of love for him. I proof-read the book before it was sent to the publishers and it was looking very nice indeed. Anyway the guide should be getting distributed as we speak and you can order a copy from HERE (http://news.pesdablog.com/2010/05/11/a55-sport-climbs-will-rock-your-summer/) or get it from your local climbing shop soon. Its a bargain at £11.99!
Fathers for Justice 6c at Penmaenhead:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6602089404964360097?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Some Pics. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/some-pics.html)
12 May 2010, 7:11 pm
I have a new camera so the phone pics should be a thing of the past! Some shots of today:
Nodder:
Tony:
Dobbin on Lou Ferrino
Dan repeating Halfway House:
Nodder on Clyde:
Dan almost doing Clyde:
Dobs:
Essential cave kit:
Nodder on Belpig:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2116145407038074243?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Orme Legend Removes Turd From Cave (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/ome-legend-removes-turd-from-cave.html)
13 May 2010, 9:59 pm
Ormesman Norman Clacher proved his love for the Orme today by removing a turd from the blue mat in the cave that some tourist had kindly left for us. Charming!
Climbed on Mayfair with Tommy, he tried Masterplan, looking good after his winter in his shed! Did all the moves apart from the crux and was mad keen for it. Then we went downstairs. I had two redpoints on Melanbeach, the last fall falling from what is effectively the last move, nice!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8913570154391646664?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Team Scotland Hit The Orme (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/team-scotland-hit-orme.html)
17 May 2010, 11:25 am
Floppy on Crucial:
The amazing weather and conditions continue on the Ormes. Five scottish based hommes have been down having it large on the lime. Will almost flashed Rockatrocity and Malc fell off the VERY last move of Louis Armstrong. Will and Malc also did what are probably the 2nd and 3rd ascents of the low start to Beaver Direct 7c+. Downstairs the guys were on Bad Boy and Statement. I ended up grabbing the last draw on my link, i was too boxed to clip it and i was too gripped to skip another clip as the one on the lip moves and it would be a screamer onto it. Another improvement though and such good training. Psyched for sport climbing! Sausage got on Pas de Deux and almost flashed all the individual moves. Last year i watched Simpson, Pete, Danny, Holger, Ioan try it and not one of them did all the moves. This led me to believe it was quite hard and hence the upgrade. Well sausage seemed to find it alright, he didn't get it done though cos his skin was a bit shit. I'm still hoping it settles at soft 8b as i've seen sausage crush hard moves on bouldery 8b's really quickly before. I spose it just needs a few more actual ascents. Personally i was convinced it was at least as hard and probably harder than Zeke. Anyway we'll see. Sausage thought the top sequence was Font 7b+, i thought it could of been 7c. Its good that everyones still psyched for LPT although its not so good for awkward buggers like me trying to link routes together!!
Malc crushing Beaver Direct low start:
Will on Bad Boy:
The old king and the original Ormesman Colin Goodey (one of the first men to climb on the Orme):
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4119242681089639840?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Melon Beach (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/melon-beach.html)
17 May 2010, 8:42 pm
Went back downstairs with sausage today and ticked my project link up first RP. Felt great on it today, still strong on Mussel Beach when i got there and didn't get that pumped which was encouraging after the previous days efforts. Thats the beauty of getting fitter, you see gains quickly! This is a brilliant link up route, taking in some amazing ground. Very crimpy hard start then a burly finish with a decent rest in the middle. I've wanted to do this for years. The better finish would be continuing up the final Parasite headwall but i'll leave this for Pete or Dyer if they can be arsed. The grade is hard 8a+, very nice. Some shots:
Sausage had a redpoint of Pas De Deux but felt too tired:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1213386170900221338?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Malc crushes LPT (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/malc-crushes-lpt.html)
18 May 2010, 9:05 pm
Had a long day in the Cave today. Malc and Mark were back on the Orme. We bouldered, i had more redpoints on Broken Sam, no cigar but very good training! Then i went down LPT with the boys to give Malc some beta on Pas de Deux. First go up he experimented with the moves a bit, looked very solid when he did them. No surprise there. He skipped a move at the end by going off the intermediate with his foot low to the pinch rather than going again to the last sloper. Very interesting method, i wanted to try it. A bit later he crushed it first redpoint, to be fair he absolutely pissed it. Check the footage (these holds aren't jugs by the way just in case you wondered):
When he got down i asked what grade he thought it was, i kind of knew what was coming. He said probably 8a+ but he hadn't tried my beta and he did confess to liking basic climbing and small pinches. No surprise there either! I still think it needs a few more actual ascents to clear up the grade. I found it hard but it doesn't mean its 8b. He then did Statement, he had tried this the other day and fell on the flash and on his first redpoint. Think he thought it was tricky. I went back to the cave for another redpoint but saw Malc onsight Over the Moon Direct from the road. Not a bad day. There was a dead fox in split infinity so Fatneck lobbed it over the wall before to stop it stinking the orme out. Also a good effort. I wouldn't have wanted to pick it up!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8471374190877874555?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Louis Armstrong 5th Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/louis-armstrong-5th-ascent.html)
21 May 2010, 7:07 pm
Malc crushed Louis Armtstrong in less than perfect conditions today (sea mist!!!) for its 5th ascent (Danny, Ty, Mickey, Nacho, Malc). Tommy C also cracked Masterplan on Mayfair today, effort mate. I have been in yorkshire for 2 days sweating my tits off at Kilnsey, so hot!!! First day had some good go's at Grooved Arete, felt a bit better on it than last year, despite it being earlier in the season. Today i floundered a bit on it then had one bolt to bolt on Full Tilt. I have always always been inspired by this route as it climbs right up the middle of the North Buttress. Unfortunately its often wet but today it was dry, chalked and ticked and Tom Newmans clips were in so i couldn't resist a bash. The route boils down to 3 hard moves and they're all BIG moves! It took a few goes to get the hard moves but i just about did them. Was quite pleased as it was only a quick burn and it is a hard 8b. Was interesting to compare it to my Diamond project which is probably fairly similar gradewise. The Diamond thing has easier moves but i think much more fitness is required.
Gangle puffing and panting and almost doing Full Tilt:
Sausage and the Cow:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8403491275696257897?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Broken Sam (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/broken-sam.html)
24 May 2010, 8:02 pm
Went down LPT today with Malc. Yesterday it was 22 degrees at 7 o clock so i was hoping for some cooler conditions today. It turned out to be 10 degrees cooler and was absolutely mint. I was keen for a brilliant 8a called Battle of the Little Big Orme and Malc was keen for another go on Liquid. I had 3 redpoints on Battle with the 2nd being the best, almost did it. This route has quite a tenuous crux sequence with two annoyingly blind footholds. Gonna have another do tomorrow. Malc made progress on LA doing it in two. Then we headed to the Cave, i wasn't expecting much after 3 good goes on Battle. Managed to squeeze out a link that i've been trying sporadically for over a year, Broken Heart into the righthand finish of Clever Beaver (Sams Finish). The grade is 8a but i think its the hardest one i've done. Super good power endurance training with a very drop-able last move.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7700959882146619629?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Wild Youth (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/wild-youth.html)
26 May 2010, 7:38 pm
Pete Robins joined in on the link up mayhem down LPT today by climbing the obvious lefthand start to Youthanasia (i.e. starting up Wild Understatement) today. No one seems to know if Youthanasia itself has been repeated. The main candidate is Neil Carson as his route Infanticide joins Youthanasia at the top. The climbing on Youthanasia is very technical with much effort and moves put in without much upwards progress. It is also not very steep territory for the grade. Pete said the strange climbing meant it is hard to grade it but it felt like probable 8b+ for effort. It took him about 5 sessions to work it out and redpoint it. Most 8bs he has done on his holidays have been done quicksharp. He also said the upper moves were some of the best on the crag! Nice work bud!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1858199684313379662?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Some you win some you lose!!!!! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/some-you-win-some-you-lose.html)
27 May 2010, 7:14 pm
Felt good warming up today, had a spring in my stride and managed Trigger Cut first go in the Cave. Then went downstairs to finish Battle, first redpoint i fell off going for the final jug. Then next go i did it, felt a lot better than the other day. Sausage did it first redpoint. I felt on a roll so i got on Parasite. I got shutdown, usual story when you feel like your cranking the climbing gods have other ideas. The Hamer bros were also down for a bit of crushing. Sam fell off going into Bad Boy on Melancholie looking super strong on it. Ed crushed Pas de Deux first redpoint. This seems to be settling back to 8a+. Seems i'm an utter penis for thinking it was 8b. Oh well i hold my head in shame.
Battle
Kneebar
Sam almost doing Melancholie:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4431693439171970198?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Hamer Bros Hammer Orme (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/hamer-bros-hammer-orme.html)
28 May 2010, 7:00 pm
The Hamer bros are in town and its crush season! Last night Ed polished up the 2nd Ascent of In Heaven hard 8a+ in the Cave. Today Sam made a very quick ascent of Melancholie (3 days!) and Ed flashed Parasite 8a. Pete did the 2nd ascent of Melon Beach and gave it an extended finish up the Parasite headwall. Tommy dropped Statement inches from the groove and i tried the middle section of Melancholie, split me tip in the process, hard route that one! Did the moves but i need to be in better shape to repeat the route. And that was that, another great day down on the beach.
Sam crushing:
Some more shots of people falling:
Sausage off Parasite:
Tommy off Statement:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1845207802929652714?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Marine Drive Closures at Weekend (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/marine-drive-closures-at-weekend.html)
31 May 2010, 9:57 am
The Ormes shut from 6.00 am til midday on Friday 4th and is basically shut all day on Saturday. You can still walk to LPT along the beach. Tides will be getting early again by the weekend. Went down LPT yesterday, tried Wild Understatement as it has slightly bigger holds and i didn't want to make my split tip worse. This was given 8a by George Smith in 1989 i think but it would be the world's hardest for the grade! Pete did it last year and reckoned 8a+ and Bransby did it this year and agreed. Whereas Statement is just sustained all the way this has a crux right at the top, is really technical, probably font 7a with bad feet. Anyway really cool route. Tommy iced Statement. Ed did Pilgrim in Cave.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-171457474942586766?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Broken Sam Vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/05/broken-sam-vid.html)
31 May 2010, 6:37 pm
Vid of Pete making the 2nd ascent of Broken Sam with completely different beta on Sams Finish. Now i know how Chris Davies feels, damn those golden heels!!!
I played around on Pilgrim today and finally did some good links with the more sensible heel beta. Cool! Some pics by Dave Pinnington:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1023298668904499764?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Cheedale (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/cheedale.html)
3 June 2010, 6:44 pm
I have spent the last 2 days climbing at the Cheedale cornice. This place isn't often dry so i thought i'd go check it out as i hadn't been for years and the tide was in anyway. Met the Hamer boys and Char down there. Me and Char got on Powerplant, a classic 8a with a hard perplexing crux. First go up was shit for both of us then i got the crux sorted and got through it first redpoint before fumbling and powering out on the upper wall. I didn't stick the crux move again that day. Next day i fumbled the top wall again. The crux i always felt good on but never executed the move consistently. Basically it brought it home that i'm not clinical enough. I should have done this route, must improve!!! Char and Sam dispatched:
Char on Powerplant
Andy Hutch on K3:
Mcclure was at Dogs Dinner Buttress. He repeated Pedigree Chum the other day and was now trying the extended low start which adds perhaps another 8c/+ at the end. Pretty meaty, i got some footage of a 'training go'! Always a pleasure watching world class climbers operate:
Mcclure warmed down on Powerplant, i was knacked so buggered off home. Back to the drawing board!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4112064601675912311?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Roof (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/roof.html)
5 June 2010, 6:10 pm
Had a great session on my roof project today. I bolted this last year and have tried the crux finish a few times since. Went with Nodder and the Ratt today, despite the heat it was cool in the Cave. Me and Nodder had a long sesh on it and we finished beasted. Such a cool route with amazing moves - very sustained and a hard boulder problem right at the end where you don't want it. Well psyched! Unfortunately a crucial hold on the first hard section is now very loose, i'm going to have to think about trying to pin and resin it.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7981676876759174553?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Pool Of For Nodder! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/pool-of-for-nodder.html)
7 June 2010, 5:24 pm
Nice work to the big guy for crushing Pools, a long held ambition. Footage here of DC doing it:
Got spanked on another 8a, this time on the crack of Over The Moon, got up there first redpoint but couldn't make those rattly jams work! Nails! Went back to the Dulas, started drilling the hold but it wasn't looking good so i resined as much of it as i could which will hopefully do the job. Let the seige begin.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4328888216144727193?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Progress like (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/progress-like.html)
9 June 2010, 6:26 pm
Been having a while of a time in my two favourite caves. Made good progress on the roof this week. Today i did the crux finish with a different sequence that was much more high percentage. Thanks to Nodder for this. Also starting to put a few small links in, unfortunately some of the holds have been a bit slimey. It has been pretty moist and sweaty. In the other Cave i finally got into Rockatrocity from the start of left wall. A much desired moment! Was pretty boxed though. Am slightly concerned that i might be slightly neglecting my Diamond fitness plan with all this upside down climbing. Its so much fun but i need to keep the bigger picture in mind for August. Too much to do thats the problem!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2276816400127373862?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
What a Difference a Week Makes (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/what-difference-week-makes.html)
14 June 2010, 11:17 am
Roll back the clock a week last Saturday i was on the roof with Nodder and Jack. Me and Dave were seiging the moves, doing most of them but it felt nails (i.e. 8b+, 30 day affair!). The last boulder problem was hard however you do it, with my method involving a very powerful crimp move. This was right at the end of the roof section, i guessed like usual in these situations i tricked myself into thinking it would get easier whereas in reality the beta was to hard for the position. Fast forward a week and i've just fallen off the last hard move to a jug, hang on, how has that happened????? Never has something felt so much easier in the space of 3 sessions. And thats why this route will always have a special place in my heart, the climbing is amazing and when i finally worked it out it just clicked. I love everything about this route, even the top out through the top of the cave, tis a great summit. Yesterday was rainy and humid and far too greasy so just put in some linkage. The main issue i now have with this route is that i have to drag one of the holds and this has already cut my finger, i can't do it with tape cos it slips so i'm gonna have to try some superglue on the wound. Hopefully this will sort it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8607240404747520691?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
One on One Off (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/one-on-one-off.html)
17 June 2010, 12:55 pm
Is the new strategy which will hopefully get me up the roof. This way i'm hoping to maximise fresh muscles and skin. Dropped the last move 3 times now, got a massive flapper on the jug on one go. At the end of every session i go to the Cave to finish myself off by trying Pilgrim and other stuff. Then the next day watch footy games. Watch this every morning to get the psyche up:
Pickles did Masterplan yesterday 2nd redpoint and Dyer scored a hat-trick of 8's downstairs. WIld Understatement, Over the Moon and Mussel Beach (done that one before)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7817498290242094323?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Infanticide 2nd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/infanticide-2nd-ascent.html)
20 June 2010, 7:27 pm
Pete Robins did the 2nd ascent of Infanticide 8c down LPT today. This was put up by Neil Carson 15 years ago. He did the direct finish Big Bang 2 years later. Nice one!
I fell off the last move of my roof 3 more times, mental block methinks!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3051000951533207387?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Redpoint Game (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/redpoint-game.html)
23 June 2010, 9:17 am
Over the last few years i have abandoned most styles of rock climbing in order to improve my redpoint grade in bouldering and sport climbing. I am quite interested in the mental game that is redpointing. To someone who doesn't understand the issue redpointing can seem like the easy path. After all you can work it as much as you want and have as many goes as you want, doesn't normally matter how long it takes. This view belies the reality though. As anyone who has become immersed in the redpoint game will tell you it can be an extremely stressful and thought provoking process especially when at one's limit. In general like anything in life the more of it you do the better at it you get. It is my belief that physchological factors are very significant in redpointing and to become good at it it is important to try and master these especially in multi-day seiges. My most disturbing battle with mental factors that i can recall was in 2003 on Raindogs at Malham. I can remember when i started redpointing putting my shoes on and feeling incredibly nervous in the pit of my stomach. I was almost telling myself i was going to fail. It is these kind of thoughts that it is very important to master. But what is the perfect redpointing mentality, should you relax? or pump yourself up and try and climb with aggression? I guess it depends on the person and the route/experience. After a significant seige on something its also important to keep believing that the end will come. I've spent over 40 days on boulder problems (not as stressful as routes granted) and i suppose belief is the most important physchological attribute. On my present project i have been pleasantly surprised with how my mentality has held up, especially since i've had so many goes in a short space of time (the ususal recipe for mental burnout). Yesterday i got the good hold but my heel slipped off a bit and i couldn't recover. This kind of thing is hard to take as luck does play a part. It is important to keep focussed however and most importantly keep positive!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5244853695476545647?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Temple Of Gloom (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/temple-of-gloom.html)
24 June 2010, 4:16 pm
Headed back to the roof today with Tony, as i said in my previous post mastering the mental side of redpointing is of paramount importance when climbing at your limit. I had held up pretty well on this project but was finally starting to feel a bit stressed with the experience. I think this can happen to anyone after 10 days. Things were not helped when on my first two goes today i fell off the first fb7a+ boulder problem twice, not a positive sign. I couldn't wish myself to the top of this route, i had to climb it, it was time to put in a big effort. I grunted through the start on my next go and was soon at the final fb7a boulder sequence. I had studied the footage this morning and knew what angle my heel had to be at to give myself the best chance. On previous efforts i had sat on my heel more, meaning the hold looked closer but in reality was harder to get the height needed. This time i executed the move perfectly, i got the jug clipped and psyched myself for the final falloffable move. The move to the ledge, jug to jug, surely i wouldn't fall here! I made sure i didn't drop it with a final power grunt. I was there sitting on the ledge. Looking up at the final 9 metres of headwall i prayed for no fuck ups. I peeled all the tape off my fingers with my teeth so i would have maximum friction on the holds. I wiped my feet on my trousers and set off psyched but concentrating hard. Before i knew it i was in the sunshine and the moment that i had desired was here. After my first 4 forays on this line i never thought it would go so quick if at all. And thats why it was such a cool experience! Cheers to all the belayers and to Nodder for the name. As for the grade well like with any FA it is a stab in the dark, myself and Dyer reckon it probably is 8b. It might turn out to be 8a+, time will tell. I'm really not sure either way and am not that fussed either. Anyway it might get its 2nd ascent tonight, come on Neil!!!!
Some footage:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4259812333826132463?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Now and the Next (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/now-and-next.html)
28 June 2010, 11:40 am
Whilst working the Temple i kept telling myself that when i did it i would do my best to enjoy not only the moment but also the aftermath. Too many of us climbers spend days, weeks and months desiring a specific moment (i.e. completing our projects), yet when we achieve this often the mind skips straight to the next project. For myself i know i do not spend enough time enjoying the satisfaction of completing a tricky redpoint. Its totally crazy really! Over the weekend whilst enjoying my tick i consumed:
1 box of Jelly Babies.
1 Key Lime Pie
1 Pizza
Lots of Galaxy Caramel
Bags of Fizzy Sweets
3 Milkshakes
Feeling pretty sugared out now but was nice to get this out my system after a pretty strict eating regime. I got pretty stressed on Temple so now i'm trying to relax a bit, got a few things here and there to do but the main plan is to get back to what i was doing i.e. trying to redpoint 8a's and 8a+s. Need to build up the redpoint fitness as Diamond season is approaching and i have some business there that needs completing.
Back at the Dullas Temple didn't have to wait long for its 2nd ascent. Pete nipped in on his way to Yokshire for a first redpoint tick. Yesterday Neil got it too on his 8th redpoint. At the end of my seige he spent a few days doing links and getting it wired. Good effort lads!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2445908415181040822?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Thought this summed it up nicely.
(http://cigline.net/image/armchair.jpg)
and then I found this.
(http://images.veer.com/IMG/PIMG/DVP/DVP1560021_P.JPG)
-
Upside Doom/Doomside Up (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/upside-doomdoomside-up.html)
28 June 2010, 4:40 pm
I've bolted up two lines in the main Cave at Llanddulas. Upside Doom and Doomside Up share the same lower off in a hole in the roof (a la Giggleswick). I was hoping the hole would have a jug in it but it wasn't the case so i've left a sling on the lower off, the last move of both routes is to grab the sling. The right hand line (Doomside Up) is pretty shit cos its basically one move (grabbing the chain). I did this but it seemed really hard to grade, the last move was quite powerful so maybe its 6c, maybe 7a, i'm really not sure. The left hand route (Upside Doom) has a bit more sustained tricky climbing on it so is a lot better. The route is pretty powerful and has some cool moves. I did it today and think it is about 7c/+.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4285168942921383583?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Psyche Low (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/psyche-low.html)
4 July 2010, 8:45 pm
Since the new routes at the Dulas i have hit a bit of a lull. Psyched fluctuation's are normal over the course of a climbers year. You can't be bouncing off the walls all the time. This often will occur after getting a project done, you spend weeks living for a moment and after it comes sometimes you go onwards and upwards to the next one and sometimes you have to take a chill pill for a bit. I went climbing a few times last week. Once down LPT and once in the Cave. LPT wasn't too bad, although i couldn't really be arsed. The cave however was awful, i couldn't even be bothered to hold on long enough to complete a problem! Also its pretty hot right now and theres not much local i actually want to do. The main factor however is that i need to get some fuckin reddies. Poor is not the word. My next big focus is the Little Orme in August and to be honest i know what i need to do to get into shape for it. Rock climbing is always good for fitness but i reckon you never get the same intensity as you can by some specific training. I need to be able to complete hard 40 move power endurance. So i may use this drop in motivation to get into the Mill keep my finger in strength wise and get down with some intense PE training. I shall hopefully return fit and psyched and ready for battle! So things might not be as lively on the blogging front in the next month but i shall try and keep any orme news flowing. Keep crushing hombres!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-219177395228282453?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Specificity is the key (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/specificity-is-key.html)
10 July 2010, 7:21 pm
This week i have been to the Mill a few times and down LPT twice doing some laps on BB. I spent a session setting and refining a 40 move circuit. The Mill is great for this as you can cross all 3 boards. At the moment i'm just trying it from 8 moves in. Haven't quite got it yet. The feeling it gives your forearms is great! The moves are pretty easy (but its steep) so you can fight until you literally can't hold on any longer. This is what i need. I'm keen to work up to doing it from the start and then i can either try and lap it or make it harder! I've got time on my side before Diamond season so with 5 weeks of intense sessions hopefully i'll be up to the job! 3 weeks before i will start the DD plan (deadhang and diet). I could also do with getting a bit stronger, am currently woefully weak on the board. Pete did Pantons project in Split Infinity, Simon Says, 8a.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6031806523220453023?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Mules Got a Boner (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/mules-got-boner.html)
12 July 2010, 10:50 am
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4526022771145217122?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
that young man certainly has some wood!
-
Jesus Doylo, too much!!
-
Ha ha, i had to embarass the mule, couldn't resist. Ah to be young again...
-
Pidgeons Cave (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/pidgeons-cave.html)
12 July 2010, 10:02 pm
Went down Pidgeons this eve with Pete, i've been there a few times over the years but never really got excited about it. I'm not sure why! Probably because the bottom of the routes are quite sandy and it needs rebolting. I've done the 7b Koo before, great steep fun. The harder routes are so steep, proper roofs! George Smith did a great looking 8a here. One of the harder routes Stark 8a is a Neil Carson route which has resin bolts in it. I dogged up and worked it out, then Pete fell off the last move on the flash. He did it next go. I was finding it pretty tough, the last sequence was a burly boulder problem on undercuts. A true PE route! Anyway i'm keen to go back for it, give me something to try for a bit. I'm gonna re-equip the place too.
Stark:
Mr Men Undies:
Bit of a shit vid, (too far away)!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1744710932101556326?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The John Dunne of the Orme (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/john-dunne-of-orme.html)
19 July 2010, 5:15 pm
The big fella used to fluctuate a stone or two in between routes/seasons. Well i appear to be the same, i've managed to gain 9 pounds since the dulas campaign!
Too much of this:
And not enough of these:
Consequently i feel very weak. Usually there is a 7a+ or two i can do in the Mill regardless, at the mo the limit is 7a. Sweet jeez. On the upside fitness is more important to me and the circuits are going well, i'm enjoying them too. Managed a shortish 8a one i set a while ago (bit pointless unless your doing it with short rests) but have been doing ok on my longer circuit. Almost managed it the other day, also have a 7b+/c circuit which i've started doing with a 4 minute rest. Would be good to get this done on the minute eventually. The Diamond season looms. I'm hoping come mid August that my form and the weather take a turn for the better. This rain has come as a bit of a shock! Hope all your projects are staying dry!
Nodder in the Mill:
I even went multipitch climbing the other day, Bramble Buttress at Tremadog.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5410332492690347121?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Breck Road Footage (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/breck-road-footage.html)
25 July 2010, 9:32 pm
Not too much to blog about at the mo. The weathers gone tits up and i'm spending my climbing time clinging to overhanging wood. There is still much work to be done as i attempt to make my training even more specific. Here is some footage from the vault including the amazing Swing of Fire:
A big jellyfish down LPT:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3236825151665466332?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Christopher Doyle Progress Report (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/christopher-doyle-progress-report.html)
31 July 2010, 4:30 pm
The foot was taken off the gas on the training front this week as i had to endure the slight inconvenience of going to work. I climbed in the Mill on Monday and had a 'comeback' sesh today. Have been hammering the circuits for about 3 weeks now, have definitely made some progress on the PE front. I'm feeling the need to get on the stone soon though. Need to make sure that what i have been doing will translate to actual endurance outside. I really hope i haven't been pissing in the wind! On paper i should be fitter but you never know with this sport. My main concern at the moment however isn't if i'm getting fitter or not its the inability of my arms to haul me up hard moves. I am bizzarely weak at the moment and despite bouldering on the steep board i'm just not getting any stronger. For the 2nd half of my Diamond project i need fitness, for the first half although i don't need to be a power monster it is always very helpful if you can turn on the afterburners when you hit a hard move. Anyway i need to get on rock to see where i'm at on the fitness front. Hopefully i'll soon be stronger soon too, i need to be. The weather needs to sort itself out too, the Diamond is a fickle beast and any humidity or dampness in the air is bad news. The good conditions ratio is about 1 day in 3. The bird ban comes off August 15th so lets hope for some sunny weeks around then.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-26837573751763003?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ginger Jims Bad Melons (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/ginger-jims-bad-melons.html)
3 August 2010, 4:58 pm
Headed to the Orme today determind to get some rock in. Nodder rang when i was in me pit enquiring about the conditions, all i could see was blue sky. When i turned onto the prom however the Great Orme was descended in mist! Bugger, it was spitting too! Usual story - headed there anywhere, team Llanberis turned up and headed down. Me James and Nodder weren't inspired by the weather so eventually we opted for a do on Simon Says, the new boy of the Orme. James in action:
I struggled with the upper crux (same as last time i tried it). Nodder was looking pretty good though. After we decided to head down Pigeons. I was a bit hesitant,another kicking on Stark was the last thing i needed but i needed some rock time so went for it. You can climb down Pigeons for quite a bit longer than LPT. Anyway a good session was had by all. Me and Nodder made new highpoints. I fell off the last move one go. Was pleased as it was feeling a lot easier to the last section. Felt like i was climbing it a lot better. Plus conditions were bon! I'll be going back soon to try and finish it.
After James took a dip in the drink!:
Spoke to Jimmy Big Guns Mccormack who is currently trying to crack Melancholie, he ticked Melancopout the other day and added another training link today. Bad Melons (8a+) starts up Bad Boy and then traverses into the middle crux of Melancholie which it follows to the top. Nice one la!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8281292494085090692?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
LPT sending spree! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/lpt-sending-spree.html)
5 August 2010, 4:40 pm
Good vibe down on the beach today. Mussel beach saw a couple of ascents from Blair and Keith and the Dyer crushing train rolled on. He scored a hat trick of 8a+s, Pas de Deux, Melon Beach and Bad Melons. Bout time he got on something hard if you ask me! Come on Neil pull yer finger out. I had a redpoint if Bad Melons but one of the crux holds was wet and i could do with being slightly stronger. Good link though, should be a goer. Did Bad Boy 3 times. Think the main thing i'm lacking now is a bit of actual stamina. Strength and PE are both reasonable. Had a return to form in the Mill yesterday, could do some of the old favourites again!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4344523919304432981?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ansteys (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/ansteys.html)
13 August 2010, 8:45 pm
Spent the last week down in Devon working on Dartmoor. It's not often that there are after work climbing options when you're away from home so i was keen to take advantage of being reasonably close to Ansteys Cove. I always fancied checking this place out so came down a bit earlier on Sunday. After a five hour non stop drive there was only one thing for it and i jump straight on the famous 8a Cider Soak. Bit of a harsh warm up but i'm liking the moves, there are some great shapes on it too. Sparky's dishing out the beta which is very helpful as its quite a complex little number. I have a few redpoints but my attempts fall just shy of the top break and i vow to return. Next sesh i meet up with Jon and the exile Ted who has spent the last few months working on Jersey. I have a few more redpoints and fall coming into the painful fingerlock at the top. The other route high on my ticklist was the mega Empire of the Sun 7b, its getting pretty dark but i'm dead keen to get it done so jump on. Love this climb, my favourite 7b in Britain and was nice to flash as i don't flash much these days. Manage to coax Bob and Tim to another after work hit, first RP i fall going for the flat jug at the end, next up i get the jug, swing my feet, stare at the top of the crag an inch away and then lose my strength and fall! Can't believe i fell here, its been a long time since i can't hold such a jug. And so the tick gets away and i leave with mixed emotions. I felt quite fit down there but at the same time the epics on 8as continues - not a good sign for the impending Diamond season!
Jon on Empire:
Me on CS:
The Exile:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5172766348592274628?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Diamond Open for Business (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/diamond-open-for-business.html)
16 August 2010, 4:23 pm
Tommy and Nodder were playing on Temple of Gloom today, nice to go back and see the beast.
The bird ban date for the Diamond has passed so its game on (conditions,weather and tides dependent of course). Pete Harrison has already been along to check the handline. Apparently one section of the static rope was down to the last few threads where it had been rubbing over the winter. Pete has sorted this now and also put two new bolts in the last section as the original bolts were starting to move as a result of the forces being put on them. The new bolts have been countersunk and face the right way so it should be fine now. Me and Mule went down but forgot mornings were a grease fest. This little fella was left over from the bird season:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7194230244884386732?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back on the Horse (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/back-on-horse.html)
19 August 2010, 7:16 pm
Went down to the Diamond today with Mule n Pickles. Signs were good as there was no grease on the approach. Sure enough when we got there the rock was crisp and bone dry. The black rock which soaks up the grease usually, was a lighter colour. A one in 6 day i would say. The crag was looking fairly dry, a few birds were left on the ledges but it felt like Diamond season. I racked up for my proj. Was gonna employ the same tactics as last year, warming up on the easier sections putting the clips in and doing a few small links. I didn't know what to expect really. In my mind i was still falling off the high redpoint crux but i suspected this wouldn't be the current reality. The moves went ok, only felt a little rusty on them. I re-aquainted myself with the redpoint crux and soon remembered why i was so far off doing it last year. Its a long stretch off a sidepull quite high up the route. When your tired the last thing you want is a long move, locking and covering distance is always hard when your sagging. Plus on this move you can't slap, you need to go reasonably static. The next few moves are smaller on positive holds before a very drop-able finish to the jugs. Last year i was locking off a flatty up to a wide pinchy thing which i guppied before laying one to a jug. This move wasn't feeling piss this year and it dawned on me what a drop-able last move it was. I could see myself falling there for days. Today i worked a new sequence for the end which although was more moves felt a bit more secure to me, despite the last move being off a poor sloper. Think i'll stick with this for now as it feels a bit more secure. I was fairly pleased to get to the first crux of the route from the deck climbing through the boulder problem off the ground first go. Mule and Pickles did Rub a Dub Dub 7a and got on Boat People. Like most folk (bar Pete) from last year they went to the first lower off. Pickles fell just shy of the big corner on the onsight then got it on his first redpoint. Mule had a ok flash go but didn't get up it last go as the sea was lapping the bottom off the access corner and we had to go. I must say this route looks very meaty for 7c. I had earmarked it for a potential flash burn but i'm not so sure now. Can't believe that it only gets 7c if you go to the top of the crag. This top section looks tricky in its own right and you've already done what is probably a hard 7c to get there (there is a rest though). It started pissing down and we got soaked getting back to the car. Not good.
Well the route still felt hard, i was happy with how i got on as hadn't been on it since last October. Despite my best efforts to prepare well it was still feeling pretty meaty, but then it is completely at my limit (and beyond) for a power endurance route. Such an amazing style though! Also need to build up my confidence on the route again. Might sound a bit pathetic as it is sport climbing but this is a meaty wall, the likes of which i don't climb on very often. I reckon i'm in for the long haul on this route, need to build the fitness and muscle memory up on it and get up to that redpoint crux ASAP. My biggest concern however is despite being finally able to try the one thing i wanna do i'm not exactly feeling overly psyched. I want to climb but am not feeling the usual fire in my belly. Would be nice to get this back as it would help my cause greatly. Now is not the time for a psyche dip. I feel like i'm going through the motions at the moment, maybe an upturn in form will sort me out. Fingers crossed!
Rub a Dub Dub 7a:
Boat People
Pickles dropping the onsight:
Wet Exit:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-983504614403047972?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
There were 3 "meaty"s in that post Chris.
You and I both know that dreaming about meat is a mugs game.
keep on trucking.
-
What can i say, i like meat!
-
Pigeons Re-equipping (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/pigeons-re-equipping.html)
20 August 2010, 7:39 pm
A few months ago the seed was planted in my mind to have another look at Pigeons Cave with view to regearing it. For some reason i'd always dismissed this place despite the attractive grade span and unique horizontal nature. I realised this was a mistake when i first went down to try Stark. Stiff Upper Lip and Follow the Prof looked great fun and Stark turned out to be a great route. I had done the 7b Koo before and that was dead good. So i sent out an email to see what resources the bolt fund had at the moment. Nearly all the resin bolts had been used to regear LPT. Pete Harrison sent out a group email and we got some more funds in through donations. Pete isn't one to mess about so he ordered 35 bolts to re-equip the place. They soon arrived and today we went and stuck new lower offs in the routes left of Stark. All that remains now is to rebolt the routes and get on them. The bolts are amazing 12mm twisty stems, very diddy indeed. Which makes drilling much less arduous!
Tiny bolts:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8688501639695327918?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Sweaty Diamond (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/sweaty-diamond.html)
22 August 2010, 9:01 pm
More Diamond action today as a big team descended on the steepness. Once again it was factor low on the grease front. I felt a bit more at home on my project today, should have made it through the crux really. I'm in a bit of a strange situation on it. I'm keen to go from the ground and see how high i can get but at the same time if i fall on the crux its because its hard and not because i'm pumped. Today when i fell i continued some linkage to the top but of course this then tires you more for the next go! Think i'll just keep on like this for a few more sessions. Once i start getting through the crux i'll just keep redpointing for the ground as this will provide sufficient pump. Boat People got a few ascents and onlookers were quite shocked as Dyer failed to flash Never Get Out of The Boat, must be hard! Later the sun came on the crag which was nice in a way but a bit sweaty also. Last year we didn't make it there til September and the evening sun wasn't quite as warm. I could resist no longer and had a rather shit flash burn on Boat People, not much left in the tank and i was soon hanging! We cut it a bit fine getting out, had to go down to bare feet to make it to the escape corner. Jeez those barnacles were sharp!
Ray escaping:
Neil on the 8a:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-44177746227665605?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Unscrambling the Physche (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/unscrambling-physche.html)
25 August 2010, 8:34 pm
I would liken my recent loss of motivation to a computer system suffering a massive crash. The effect is instant but recovery is not and often takes a bit of time to unravel the damage thats been done. At its worst i could no longer see the point of rock climbing and felt i was just going through the motions by doing something that i felt like i should rather than wanting to do it. I've had such feelings before but it just happened to be particularly bad timing this year with the onset of Diamond season. It is horrible when something that is such a massive part of your life seems momentarily pointless. And the worst thing is you can't force your way back, the psyche has to return naturally. Anyway despite all this i've been enjoying the early Diamond sessions, its hard not to get a bit of an urge to climb at this place. I stuck another step on the road to recovery today by getting a tick. Haven't had one of those for a while! Went down Pigeons and after warming up on Koo managed to dispatch Stark finally, felt fine too which made it all the more sweeter. Had that spring in my stride walking out that you only get from clipping a chain. Pete and Nodder continued the re-equipping work. Nodder learnt how to bolt on Koo and Pete started on Stiff Upper Lip and Follow the Prof. These need completing, we'll probably have to get a big ladder down there to finish them. The old bolts are so rusty we can't even use them to clip into to keep us in while we bolt, they just disintegrate!
Pete drilling Stiff Upper Lip:
Nodder on Koo, very fun 7b on big holds:
The boys and the tat:
The crag is in a right state with old krabs on every bolts and knackered rope and rusty chains hanging from the belays, some stuff Pete chopped off:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7539369837629327235?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
*Pedant alert* - its not 'Physche' its 'Syke'
-
Jeehaaaah! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/jeehaaaah.html)
26 August 2010, 8:11 pm
After the doom and gloom of the last post this one should be a bit more cheery! Had a really good day down the Diamond. Just me and Mule down there tonight and once again we were spoilt by good conditions. Not had a bad day down there yet, starting to think we imagined the grease of last year! I was feeling strangely confident. Strategy wise i was in a bit of a catch 22 situation. If i fell low down i really needed to pull back on and bust out a link for fitness purposes. However this would tire me for the next redpoint. I figured at this stage of the game that it would be more beneficial to save my strength and try and get through the crux section. If i could, this would do my confidence the world of good and the whole thing would not feel quite so daunting. 1st RP my heel slipped off frustratingly. Next burn up i crushed the crux and fell on a big move just shy of the pre-redpoint crux shakeout. I was inches from getting to last years highpoint. I fell there again on my next go, i was feeling fit and this was just the session i needed. Mule had a good first session on Never Get Out of the Boat getting a good pump on. Alas that is probably the last time i'll make it down until the next tidal window. Can't wait!
Photo by Matt Pickles:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-370717842160330989?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Thank You Rock Climbing! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/thank-you-rock-climbing.html)
5 September 2010, 8:22 am
In a previous post i talked about psyche problems that i've been having recently. Throughout my climbing life i've felt inspired and driven and if you read this blog you will know that climbing rocks is a big part of my life. When the inspiration left things weren't good. I've had some traumatic problems with the missus also which has added to things greatly. I think usually you climb best when your in a good place and your happy. Relationship problems felt like the final nail in the coffin for me. I couldn't really be bothered climbing but i knew that my climbing life had been building up to this Diamond route for years and i would regret it if i didn't give it everything even if i didn't feel like it. With the tide in and having no motivation for the Mill i headed to the peak with Mule to get on a very dry, re-bolted and chalked Cheedale cornice. I was well and truly going through the motions. I felt weak on the stuff i tried and seemed incapable of trying hard. I couldn't get high enough up anything to get a significant pump so in terms of Diamond training it was a waste of time. Doom and gloom! The final thing i did was go bolt to bolt on Nemesis which i really enjoyed. What a route that is!
Ben on Nemesis (he did it the next day)
I headed back to Wales for the next tidal window but i was actually dreading getting down there. I'd hardly climbed for over a week and after the last session being good i couldn't afford to go backwards. This would of screwed my head up even more. I wasn't sure how i'd climb on the route, surely i was in to much emotional turmoil to perform. I set off and soon found myself at the crux, i really wanted to get through this first go to help my confidence. I crushed the holds and soon found myself at the flatty just shy of where i fell last time. This time things were different, i felt stronger here than i ever had before and i knew this could be a good go. I powered through the big move that had stopped me last time and fell on the high redpoint crux. Yes! Back to last years highpoint. 7 moves to go. Last year i only had it in me to get to the RP crux once a session so i was surprised to find myself there again on the next two goes. The last go was actually the best and i had some strength left-was inches from the hold. All my worries evaporated momentarily. Usually i would be so desperate to do well and try and do the route i would create nerves and pressure for myself which would often adversly affect my climbing. Today i climbed unencumbered with nerves and pressure and it was one of the best i've ever felt on the rock. I hardly put a foot wrong in 3 redpoints and the endorpins really made me feel better. I think the climbing lifestyle i've lived for the majority of my 20s may be coming to an end but i know i'll always be a climber. Such a special sport, thank you rock climbing!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9196748770941088630?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The INCREDIBLE Bulk (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/incredible-bulk.html)
6 September 2010, 6:13 pm
Just got a txt off Pete Robins who has finally managed to link Lou Ferrino into The Incredible Bulk (Part 2) in Parisellas. Pete has been battling with this link ever since he did the first ascent of the stand start last winter. So its 7c+ into 7c+/8a with no rest. He didn't mention the grade but it will be at least 8b and one of the best lines in the Cave. So aswell as being strong, fit and talented Pete also knows how to seige - a dangerous combo! Some footage of Pete attempting the stand version prior to the FA.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7815749148930775947?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Mallorca Mankini (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/mallorca-mankini.html)
8 September 2010, 10:20 am
Mallorcan Mankini (http://vimeo.com/14780266) from Jack Geldard (http://vimeo.com/user1593875) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8405432339596041729?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:o
:bow:
-
:o
:bow:
your a lucky girl!
-
Hmm, not that lucky. It wasn't that pretty close up. General consensus is a crack wax is required asap.
-
you're not wrong!!!!
(http://jackgeldard.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/gibs-ass.jpg?w=600&h=400)
-
i like it - waxed would be just wrong!
-
Bastard Grease (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/bastard-grease.html)
9 September 2010, 7:47 pm
Last two days on the Diamond have been too greasy to progress. Yesterday a temperature inversion was responsible but today was breezy and clear yet the grease still prevailed. Don't know why it was like that today, can't think of a logical explanation. I knew i'd cursed myself when i started telling people how reliable the conditions had been this year. The last good day i felt stronger than ever on it too. Is weird i'm getting to the same place as last year but i'm significantly stronger and more solid on it. Good and bad rolled into one. The redpoint crux feels like it may go soon though. The good thing with a route like this is that every good go is money in the bank. And it all builds up to that go when everything's right! I might not get down there again til the next tides now which is frustrating. At the end of the day i had a flash burn on Hysteria which i reckon is far to burly for 7b. I fell and it was very greasy but a cool route.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-467873977952024091?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Adversity (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/adversity.html)
14 September 2010, 9:07 am
Adversity is what i'm facing with regard to this Diamond route. It has dawned on me this week that is probably one of the worst places for climbing at your limit. Ok so Sharma managed to do Jumbo Love half way up a mountain in the desert but he is Sharma, its his job to do shit like that. The Diamond is only 20 minutes from civilisation but this is all it has going for it for multi session seiges. I think its a fabulous crag for going and doing some routes in a session or two. It is one of the most impressive bits of sport rock in Britain without doubt. By the time i get back on the route i will basically have had 11 days off. I have been away a few times and the weather has been shit here. Now my names not Cattell or Dyer, those boys can warm up on Trigger Cut after 5 months off. 11 days is significant for me! So the place is tidal (obvious disadvantge), you can only climb there 2 months a year, any kind of atmospheric ming and its unclimbable, it can't be raining and you need partners on the good days. Its getting dark at 7.30 now and you can't go before 12 cos of morning grease. You will never do a route at your limit there if you have a job. I have been putting off working to try and do it. This doesn't make you rich and is a bad way to be. I'll see what happens in the next tidal window but with all these problems and my continued psyche dip its not looking good!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6828938827384186629?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I'm Not Giving Up Yet! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/im-not-giving-up-yet.html)
24 September 2010, 7:31 pm
Well since my last post i have had two weeks without even pulling on - which is very rare for me. I went to the Lakes for a weekend with the missus then a few days later went to Belfast for four days. During this time i consumed much tasty food and did some cultural stuff, the highlights being William Wordsworths house in Cockermouth and then filling in my knowledge on the Troubles in the Belfast musuem. Also caught up with Irish Jap si and his lady wife who were over from California. When i got back i struggled to get a belayer then last wednesday i made it down the Diamond but it was raining and thus was gopping. Throughout my time off i couldn't help but think of the strength and stamina that was slowly ebbing away and also of the weight that i was inevitably putting on. I knew logically i couldn't lose much in this time but i'm used to climbing all the time so it felt like a big lay off. I could tell on my one go up on Wednesday that i hadn't lost much strength. Today was cold and windy and it looked like we could be getting wet on the handline as the waves battered against the cliff. I could see the chalk on my route as we approached and sure enough it was dry as a bone. When you know the crag you can tell by looking at the colour of the black streaks how greasy it is. First redpoint i felt good but my heel popped off. Quick rest then managed to get to my highpoint which was confidence inspiring. I had definitely lost some fitness and didn't feel as good as i did but it should come back soon enough. And then it got dark so we left. I'm hoping to get down once more before the tides change and then i plan to train really hard and push on next time. I really need to pull my finger out and put some effort in. I've felt like quitting so many times. Life would be much easier but then it would also be more boring and i do like a challenge!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7747431853313754816?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Cue 'Rocky' training music and montage.
-
Get it fucking crushed you cunt.
-
Get it fucking crushed you cunt.
;D
-
Fast Twitch/Slow Twitch (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/09/fast-twitchslow-twitch.html)
29 September 2010, 9:43 pm
Been to the Mill a few times this week in an attempt to shock myself into better shape. Instead i just shocked myself with how weak i am! I haven't bouldered properly since the Dulas campaign in June when i was doing some extra training in the Cave. In the Mill i was struggling after the warm ups. Strange you can be close to your hardest ever route and yet be completely weak as piss. I always think though that it doesn't matter whether your weak, unfit or whatever at a given moment as long as you can climb what you want to climb at that time. This is always how i've worked anyway. A lot of it is about timing and getting on the right things and making sure you finish them at that moment. As some small consolation i was better on the circuits in the Mill.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5789817697459425199?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
25 Days And Finally a Topout (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/25-days-and-finally-topout.html)
7 October 2010, 7:22 pm
No i haven't crushed my project but after over 25 climbing days there i've finally done a route!!! Ok so Hysteria might not be the grandest of Diamond routes but its still a route. Jonny R was looking good on his project falling with the jug basically in his hand - will be a cracker. Have been back to the Mill a few times and the strength is slowly returning. Even popped into the Cave yesterday to see how shit i am. Wasn't too bad just need some conditioning. Quite keen for a few things in there this winter.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3987398387701261158?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Sea of Tranquility 2nd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/sea-of-tranquility-2nd-ascent.html)
15 October 2010, 7:50 pm
Pete Robins has done the probable 2nd ascent of Sea Of Tranquility on LPT. In the 97 Rockfax it credits Neil Carson with the 2nd ascent but rumour has it that this is a mistake. Over the years i have spoken to several people who were around at the time and they all thought that Carson didn't do it. If anyone knows for sure get in touch. Sea of was graded 8c by Ben Moon in 1993 who thought it to be similar to Liquid Ambar in the harder range of the grade. However with the evolution of grades throughout the world and with a distinct lack of repeats for both routes both could now be considered 8c+. Three of the four people who have done LA say 8c (Ben M, Jerry and Simpson, not sure what Pete thinks now) but they are all old skool in their grading. For me the fact the people who have failed to repeat both routes tells a story. I've belayed Mcclure and Simpson on Sea Of and neither managed to get it sorted in a few days of effort. This year Malc managed Liquid in two halfs but didn't get it done and Nic Sellars didn't do it in the height of his sport climbing powers (he said it was nails). Its a shame they don't get more attention as they're both brilliant routes. Pete has very few routes left to do on LPT now with the obvious one being Big Bang which will surely be the most prestigious 2nd ascent in North Wales when completed. He also becomes the first man to tick the three 8c/+s Liquid, Sea of and Infanticide which is quite an achievement. LPT almost ticked! - not bad for a few years worth of effort!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-144361383827133459?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Dinbren (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/dinbren.html)
18 October 2010, 10:48 pm
When i lived in Holywell i spent a lot of time climbing in the Eglwyseg valley near Langollen. People have climbed here for years with a lot of the routes protected by fixed gear. In the early noughties the old fixed protection started to get replaced with stainless bolts and new sport routes started to go up. A new guide book came out and the areas popularity was assured. I stopped coming here a few years ago as i had done most of the better 7's at the time and normally found myself at the Ormes. The Valley has a lot going for it however. Its obviously not tidal and apart from a hot summers day conditions are nearly always good. There are lots of 7's to go at and quite a few 8's up to 8b. It feels like quite a stress free scene compared to the Ormes! There are even some projects. Rob Mirfin has been putting up hard new routes here for a few years. I have been a few times recently and am quite keen to get back into it. On Sunday i went with Mule and we did a 7b+ called Cubase which was cool. I also fell a foot move away from flashing a 7c called Dyperspace. My hand uncurled as i tried to move my foot up, was quite gutting as i've never flashed 7c in Britain. The lack of climbing has taken its toll though and i feel in poor shape. 5 weeks ago i was doing 8a/+ worth of climbing 3 times a session on the Diamond and now my arms feel tired after warming up. Haven't had much urge to go climbing although when i've been i have enjoyed it.
Lee Proctor, Mr Dinbren:
Mule flashing Cubase:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4080552470924497777?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Freezing Day at Pigeons (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/freezing-day-at-pigeons.html)
21 October 2010, 10:11 pm
Went down Pigeons today, it was very cold and windy! Stiff Upper Lip has seen some attention since it has been rebolted (Pete Robins has redpointed it). This must be one of the steepest 8a's in the country. It makes the 'roof warrior' in Cheedale seem not very roofy! About 5 bolts worth of it are completely horizontal! Jim's clips were in so i had a quick bolt to bolt. It was brilliant, some good holds and a burly section on undercuts and then a frustrating last move slap! Keen to do it sometime when i'm climbing stronger again.
Some footage of one of Jim's redpoints:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3181639419848060182?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New Diamond 8a (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/new-diamond-8a.html)
24 October 2010, 12:02 pm
Jon Ratcliffe has climbed his project line on the Diamond. This is a very cool little number following a diagonal break left to right on the right hand side of the crag. The route joins Hysteria at the top. It is a power endurance affair and quite a unique line for North Wales. Jon equipped and started trying the line last year. Over the winter a big jug was smashed off by the sea by the grade remained the same as this left a jug underneath. Its called The Waiting Game, very appropriate, nice one fella!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1153640894686990761?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Confirmation from Carson (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/confirmation-from-carson.html)
6 November 2010, 11:06 pm
I thought i'd ask Neil Carson if he did repeat Sea of Tranquility or not as i have always wondered. It seems that the Rockfax got it wrong - "I never repeated Sea of Tranquility - dabbled with it but was more interested with the other unclimbed lines at the time." So there you have it another myth dispelled and the 2nd ascent goes to Pete.
Not been climbing much recently, have been working more and playing lots of snooker. Have got a few things on the go though. Could do with getting some strength back. Feeling strong is nice! Some footage of my best efforts on the Diamond:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4039638317768169958?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Batman 7c+ (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/batman-7c.html)
27 November 2010, 4:14 pm
Muledog Samuel Howard Clifford Cattell has done the line right of Caveman 7b on Cavewall on the top of the Little Orme. Mule did the first ascent of Caveman maybe ten years ago. Today he fought the arctic conditions on his first session back on the project for a while. Batman took him 3/4 sessions altogether and the grade is hard 7c+ but don't be surprised if it turns out to be 8a as he's strong at the moment.
This crag has a few toughies now:
Batman 7c+ (8a)
Caveman Low Start 7c+
The Weakest Link 7c
Caveman/Breezeblock 7b+
Rocket in a Pocket 7b
Caveman 7b
Right hand problem 7a+
Patch's Problem 7a
Breezeblock 7a
Ben Bransby also managed a 2nd session repeat of Bonnie 8a+ in the Cave.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3946367733937290157?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Far From the Orme (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/far-from-orme.html)
29 November 2010, 10:40 am
Lots of hommes have been having it large out in swizzy recently with some good results. I've been getting psyched hearing the news of hard ascents. This is defo one of the top global destinations now especially for the harder grades where many world class problems exist. It is a bit of a gamble in winter with the risk of trip ending snow omnipresent but if you get it right it is a beautiful place to climb. Dave Mason and Micky Page have returned to complete two climbs that they put some effort into a few years ago. Dave crushed Vecchio Leone 8b at Brione the other day. This is undoubtedly one of the most perfect hard problems in the world. Three suprisingly ample (but awkward) perfect finger edges up a overhaning wall lead to a quartz pinch which must be squeezed like billio to gain better holds. I had a play on this when i was out there two years ago and remember thinking i could maybe get to the pinch with some work but colossal pinch strength is needed to execute the crux. There can't be a more perfect 8b anywhere (maybe Spectre??). Nice one Dave, a great tick. Similary Micky had tried From Dirt Grows the Flowers (Dave Graham 8c) a few years ago but was thrawted by bad weather if i remember correctly. He has gone back out there this season and finished the job for its 3rd (?) ascent and joining a small number have Brits to have climbed font 8c. Can only think of Jonny and Ty off the top of my head. Dobbin has done a couple of 8as out there too which is good going for a short trip. So there you go, it looks like Swizzy is catching the Orme up in terms of world significance.
Vecchio Leone (http://vimeo.com/11028890) from Michele Caminati (http://vimeo.com/michelecaminati) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6085890606858393169?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Bearman Roams Free (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/bearman-roams-free.html)
4 December 2010, 11:27 am
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3926777466043133212?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Fat Twat Pulls Out Wobbly Block (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/fat-twat-pulls-out-wobbly-block.html)
12 December 2010, 6:42 pm
After years of wobbling under the bodyweight of many boulderers the wobbly block under Rockatrocity has finally fallen out. This hold gave many a disconcerting moment mid move as it used to shift position constantly. The hold is essential for In Hell, In Life, Pit of hell, Cave Life, In Heaven, The Highlife etc... Fat sport climber Bob Hickish was the man who pulled it out. I was shopping in Manchester when i got a worried text from Richie Crouch who had heard the news from Leeds. Then i heard first hand from Bob. Today i popped in to pick it up to ensure that no kid throws it over the wall. All that was left in its place was a shallow hole, it was hard to see how it had stayed in there so long. I will try and sort it out with Nodder this week. It should be ok!
Orme artefacts, original bolt from Liquid Ambar, the wobbly block, and Neil Carsons blue tat from Big Bang.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8321571642200928205?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
nutters (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/nutters.html)
13 December 2010, 10:53 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4288040609042236956?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Your Christmas Sermon (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/12/your-christmas-sermon.html)
25 December 2010, 5:00 pm
This is the 3rd Christmas sermon on this blog, doesn't time fly! The Sunday Sermon's were fun but they seem like ages ago now. The blogs had a quiet few months. This is because its a climbing blog and i haven't been climbing. I haven't climbed since mid November actually and no i'm not injured. I've been in a weird place motivation wise probably since September, i had been trying to get in the best shape i could for the Diamond season. After maybe 5 sessions i was going well on the route, better than last year although still getting to the same move. I had one session where i was even feeling fairly fresh up there getting there 3 times in a session. Despite this something just wasn't quite right. I felt like i was just going through the motions in order to get it done. I found myself in a strange predicament as although all i needed to do was keep going i was struggling to maintain the tunnel vision approach that was needed. The Diamond is not your standard sport crag. You're lucky to get six weeks a year there and your lucky to get good conditions more than one in three days. To do this route at this crag i needed to invest all my time and focus. I had no money, i was the poorest i'd ever been in my life. Things were just getting back on track with the missus so i needed to put some effort into that. On my return after a two week break i knew the game was up. I had lost the edge physically and this resulted in me losing the physchological battle. I was soon falling off everywhere,it was getting cold too. I resigned myself to defeat. It was bouldering season now and i knew i was weak as i'd hardly bouldered since June, it would be a hard old slog getting back into the Cave. The upshot was the desire wasn't there. I was occupied for a few weeks developing a new bouldering area which i was really into, its reinvigorated me running round finding new boulders but there were some problems with the place so i eventually left it. I knew then i probably wouldn't climb again for a while. You need to be psyched out of your mind to climb when its so cold and i couldn't be bothered.
There has been a definite shift in my motivation in the 2nd part of this year. Like everyone i get peaks and troughs in motivation but this time it felt like a more permanent shift. I remember when i was younger i was motivated to climb on any piece of shit. I was totally obsessed and up for anything, totally mad for it. These days i can't get excited by sitting down in the mud pulling on and jumping for the top. I wish i had the same motivation as when i was younger but it is completely organic for me and can't be forced. One of the reasons that climbing has been such a big part of my life is that it has really made me feel inspired which is a completely infectious feeling. Of course i enjoy moving on rock like everyone but its the kind of drive that can stop you eating properly for a few months or make you run round the orme even though you really can't be arsed that i really crave. When the inspiration dried up i just felt a bit lost. I've been going at it for so long at the detriment of most other things i guess it was always possible that i'd end up running on fumes. I met Zippy down the Cheedale Cornice this summer, he didn't seem his normal self. He said something about things not going too well. I said "well at least you've been enjoying yourself for years". He replied something like "i've been enjoying myself too much thats the problem". And i guess this brought to the front another pressing issue. The climbing life Vs career/posessions/house/pension etc... Lots of people manage to do both obviously but we all know that to get the most out of your potential it sure does help not having a proper job. There is no right or wrong way, it is up to the individual to decide what they want from life. This is a conflict that most obsessed climbers will have to face at some point. I felt this was my time. As much as it would be nice to try and climb Liquid Ambar and travel the world i knew i didn't want to end up living in a allotment shed with nothing to my name.
I don't know when i'll start climbing again. I'm kind of dreading it as i know my base level is about font 6b so it'll be a tough old slog to get any kind of strength back. I'm looking forward to hanging out at the crag again with familiar faces. It may sound sad but climbing has felt like its given me a place in the world. I may not be finding cures for cancer etc.. but promoting the Orme is surely a worthwhile pursuit and someones got to do it! Merry Xcrement.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2730147906689993449?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I appreciate these "mind openings" of yours, Chris. I understand where you're coming from. I'm sure you'll refind it soon enough.
-
I went through something similar with chronic injuries added to the mix. Two decades later I've got more motivation than I know what to do with. And a career. And a family. It'll work itself through. Happy Xmas :)
-
I think pretty much everyone can identify with something there Chris. And so honestly and eloquently put. As you've said before, you'll always be a climber 'cos it gives you so much, it feels right to be a climber and you've found your place in the world as a climber (I really understand what you mean by that). Taking time out is never a bad thing if you return in a better state of mind, after all its supposed to be fun from time to time!
Oh and promoting the pleasures of the Orme is a truly worthwhile activity mate. I can think of few better places to climb. Have a good christmas and new year.
-
;D Cheers for the comments.you can't beat a cathartic blog post
-
nice post Doylo.
see you in February at the Cave.
-
Doylo, speaking from a position of some authority on the lack of climbing faith front, man the fuck up. It'll come back, even harder. You lose the faith, you gain the faith, second time is stronger. Go for Liquid Ambar, aim high. Who cares if you live in a potting shed, what matters is that you pushed it as far as you could. Go and push it. Not a number 2, the climbing, fool.
-
Who cares if you live in a potting shed, what matters is that you pushed it as far as you could.
Well i doubt i'll be able to convince the missus to stay over if i'm in a potting shed, and a man needs his oats.
Cheers Andy, i think i'll be taking the non potting shed route though. Pete Robins has almost done every hard route on the Orme and he doesn't live in a potting shed! He is quite good though.
Nibs the CAve will probably be too hard for me but i'll come and heckle.
-
I Tried to Go Climbing (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/i-tried-to-go-climbing.html)
2 January 2011, 4:50 pm
I've thought about going climbing a few times recently. Almost met up with Nodder in the cave once or twice. The place has been a gopfest though and the you can't drive on the marine drive as the gate is shut. They must have shut it when the snow was here but i think its a bit cheeky keeping it shut considering people pay money for a season ticket. The cave will probably be too hard anyway.
Was thinking about what to try and do this year. I guess i'd really like to push my sport grade a little higher. I did Melanchollie (note correct spelling) in 2004 and haven't managed to do anything harder since. You can't beat progress! Unfortunately though there are not many 8b+'s to choose from in North Wales. LPT has The Walking Mussel and Wild Youth. The Walking Mussel is the most appealing option. I had a brief go on it in 2009. Its is basically a hard boulder sequence in the middle of the crag. Very nice crux involving a bony pinch and some undercuts. The route then finishes up the crack of Over the Moon. Now for anyone else trying TWM this probably wouldn't be an issue but i got totally shut down on the crack last year. I saw Smit do it with a different sequence though so should try that. So its a big IF! Got to get strong enough to crack the crux then work out the crack then link it all. I think its fair to say the odds are against me getting to this level but you might as well aim high! Its a good route thats the main thing and its usually pretty easy finding people to climb with at LPT.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8512915942965181586?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
just had a quick read through your blog, intresting stuff and your from llandudno, i live in penrhynside and have just got into climbing in the past 6 months, theres seems too be a fair few from this area on the site, hopefully meet some of you guys at some of the local spots this year
craig
-
Hi Craig,
I'm about one minute from you in Craig-y-Don. Ye there's some welshies on here. Not many dudnoites though. Just me and Petejh i think. Sure i'll bump into you at the crags! If your keen to meet more partners/broaden your horizons this is quite an active club and good for beginners especially: http://www.clwydmc.co.uk/ (http://www.clwydmc.co.uk/)
-
awsome thanks for the link, pretty close then, do you know much about the routes on the little orme ive seen a section of rock and cant find topo's for it, looks pretty hard too
thanks
craig
-
Where abouts is it? Most of the crags are identified in these topos:
http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Little+Orme (http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/The+Little+Orme)
If its parallel with the road its manor crag.
-
its off the road its a bouldering spot, if you go through the top gate onto the lil orme its pretty much straight ahead of you looks pretty much unclimbed althou im sure someone has had a bash
ta
-
A World of Opportunity! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/world-of-opportunity.html)
7 January 2011, 5:56 pm
After saying in my last post that i wanted to knuckle down and tick something hard i'm not so sure now. I had been thinking about some new routes that i wanted to try and today i've been on a mission with Tony all over the shop looking at untouched white limestone. One of the reasons i like North Wales is that it isn't completely climbed out like most the English sport crags and there are still whole crags with nothing on them. Found this cool Frankenjura style bouldering cave with a handful of problems:
Theres also a meaty crag nearby with some big roofs so keen to check that out too. Then we headed down another valley full of crags and found some good stuff including some very hard looking sport climbs.
All i need now is for some expansion bolt company to sponsor me!
At least i've got plenty of reasons to start again.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6691890803646203331?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
A World of Opportunity! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/world-of-opportunity.html)
7 January 2011, 5:56 pm
After saying in my last post that i wanted to knuckle down and tick something hard i'm not so sure now. I had been thinking about some new routes that i wanted to try and today i've been on a mission with Tony all over the shop looking at untouched white limestone. One of the reasons i like North Wales is that it isn't completely climbed out like most the English sport crags and there are still whole crags with nothing on them. Found this cool Frankenjura style bouldering cave with a handful of problems:
Theres also a meaty crag nearby with some big roofs so keen to check that out too. Then we headed down another valley full of crags and found some good stuff including some very hard looking sport climbs.
All i need now is for some expansion bolt company to sponsor me!
At least i've got plenty of reasons to start again.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6691890803646203331?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
Good to hear your back Chris and keep me posted on these new crags - they sound very interesting.
-
How do Mr p its been a while. Have to catch up soon. So much to do and not enough time. Getting keen again!
-
Here we go (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/here-we-go.html)
16 January 2011, 11:44 pm
I went back to Three Degrees of Levitation the other day to give it a belay. It now shares a belay with the project to the left that i bolted last year and tried a few times. The climbing involves long reaches on very small holds - too small for me! I might have to enlist a North Wales slatehead to do this one. I bet it turns out to be 7c+! Anyway the crag is nearing completion but i have two more lines to check out. Then we jumped ship to the latest find. Tony abbed a line and placed a bolt at the top. I had a top rope, my first climb since early November. Two months off climbing may not be unusual for a lot of people but it is a long time for me. It was nice being back on the stone, top of the route was a really nice wallclimb. At the top i transferred to the ab rope and came down checking one of the meaty lines. It was really hard to see if it would go from the ground, i placed a bolt and found a sequence that should work. Really cool route, need to bolt it all now. Crag development is hard work. Cleaning, chopping your way through vegetation and bolting all take it out of you. This day reminded me how much i like hanging out at the crag with pals. A climbing day isn't just about moving on rock. I like getting home feeling worked after being out all day.
Today i went to the Indy for my first proper climbing session. For those who don't know the Indy is a climbing wall on a military base on Anglesey and has the best indoor bouldering in North Wales. Perfect for getting back into it. It wasn't long before my feet, skin, tendons and forearms were aching! I managed a few V2s so hadn't dropped that much. I might start having a couple of months off every year to rest the body and mind. Its certainly been beneficial in getting my mojo back recently.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7617465874331056385?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Here we go (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/here-we-go.html)
16 January 2011, 11:44 pm
I might start having a couple of months off every year to rest the body and mind. Its certainly been beneficial in getting my mojo back recently.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7617465874331056385?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
:thumbsup: Cheryl would be so proud
-
Ivan the Responsible (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/ivan-responsible.html)
18 January 2011, 6:16 pm
I'm flipping knackered after 2 months of doing nothing more strenuous than push a snooker cue my poor arms have had a shock in the last week! Went to roof crag yesterday with tony. He drilled his route and lead it. Quite a nice 6b, i think he's called it Throaty:
I stuck some bolts in the crux bottom half of the line i had spied. I had a go of the moves, they were really good and perfect for my current level. I was excited. I got back on the ab rope and bolted the top half, on the way down i hung on a jug just after the crux to check the clipping position. Suddenly the section of rock i was hanging off parted company with the crag. The open corner feature was made up of cracked blocks so i went to town on it with my peg hammer until i reached a solid base. Unfortunately its now 5 grades harder, hopefully it will still go but definetely an 8 now. Damn it! Will get on it when i'm a bit stronger. It got dark and we departed.
Today i headed to Three Degrees crag with Norman and my father. Norman has blitzed the place bolting 4 lines. Seeing it look like a proper crag really got me keen to finish it off. I abbed down and bolted a steep wall. It looked really good with holds just where you wanted. I'm gonna have a stab in the dark and guess 7b+ without having tried the moves. Then i did the first ascent of Ivan the Responsible, a long 6b+ that my dad had prepared and bolted. Really good with a crux last move. My arms were feeling fairly jaded. Norman then pulled his project out the bag. Clitoris Allsorts (great name eh!) 7a+ is a brilliant little route, nice rock, moves and holds and quite cruxy. A great addition. Norman is a hoot to climb with, i think my favourite quote when he was in extremis was when he shouted 'come on Norman get a grip you fucking prick'. And he's so well spoken normally! In the list of Ormesman in the 92 Rockfax, Normans entry reads: 'A local climber living in Rhyl who has developed such an obsession with climbing on the Ormes that he has now taken up a night job so that he can be there every single day'. Anyway it was a great effort. I need a rest day now.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3364550609344417258?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
good too see your bolting new lines, id like too bolt some of my own one day but im not sure about how too do it and the rules/laws on where you can and cant bolt
-
Newbie (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/newbie.html)
22 January 2011, 12:00 am
I've been out every day this week in crag development mode. I feel very energized, it is definitely preferable to the sluggish slob syndrome that became me in december, not leaving the flat for 3 days at a time! I have been drilling, cleaning loose rock, chopping down brambles, inspecting new lines and climbing. Its been like a day job, no long lie ins, get up and get out. Caught up with this guy:
and this guy:
Wales very own P-Rob came to the crag today. I was keen to get him onboard as i was keen for someone with small hold techy credentials to do the slate-esque project i bolted last summer. After warming up Pete made the first flash of Three Degrees confirming that the cool jump is unecessary. It must be the worst thing for a first ascentionist when a beautiful sequence becomes redundant (not that i could pull on the crimp he used). Its even worse than having something downgraded (unless of course something is downgraded by two or more grades). As some consolation he didn't piss the big crux move after the hole. He kept coming up and down not wanting to blow it then comitted and puffed his cheeks and did it. He got the moves on the project but by the time he could of done it skin was lacking - one for another day. Norm squeezed in a two bolt newbie at about 6b. I managed one of my projects but not without a bit of a tussle. I really like the moves on this route, really good. Its called Shakin Stevens 7b+. Pete flashed the 2nd ascent. I keep forgetting its only January, shouldn't really be sport climbing nevermind doing first ascents. Its only just doable if theres no wind and even then its a bit chilly on the tips!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1247989477441075068?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Norman Clacher, 5 decades on the Orme. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/ormesman-of-week-norman-clacher-5.html)
23 January 2011, 12:00 am
I was trying to think of something a bit different i could write about on here every week when i came up with the concept of Ormesman of the week. What better than to start a short feature celebrating those men who have dedicated weeks, months and years of their lives to climbing on the Ormes. One of the first obstacles i came across was that although Ormesman is a recognised title in North Wales there is no set criteria that defines what one has to do to gain a key to the Ormesman country club. Over the years friendships have been broken and many pint glasses smashed in arguments about what constitutes an Ormesman. The truth is that everyone has there own interpretation. There are those who have been climbing on the Ormes for decades and those who have had a brief intense relationship with the place. There are those who just enjoy getting out and ticking some classic routes and then there are those with an insatiable hunger for new lines and leaving there mark. These days bouldering should be taken into account too but it is on the showpiece cliffs of the area that the true Ormesman cuts his teeth. So there you go, as vague as a term it is i shall do my best to celebrate the way of the Ormesman. I'm bound to leave some people out and i only know a limited amount about some so some weeks will be shorter than others.
Norman Clacher
Thought i'd start with Norman as i've been climbing with him recently. In his late 50s now Norman has been climbing on the Ormes since the 70s. It's hard to believe when you see him as he only looks about 45. Obviously after climbing in the area so long Norman has done his share of new routes but he rates Crigyll Outlaws E1 at Seal point as his best. Crigyll is described in the guide as possibly the best E1 on North Wales limestone. Norman has been a member of many a first ascent party and other FAs of his include Five Miles Out e4, Adams roof e2 and Mumbo Jumbo 6a. Norm rates Face Race as his favourite hard route. Today he was telling me tales of his adventures with Andy Pollitt on the Little Orme. Norman recollected how they had been on the Great Zawn traverse with Pollitt when they got stuck due to rainfall. Pollitt then proceeded to attempt a 40ft pendulum on an old peg that was bending and flexing to try and reach an escape gully. Peg failure would have meant a nasty splashdown! They tried to escape by climbing out barefoot but it was in vain. Pollitt made an escape up vertical wet grass and lowered a rope down to Norm. Just an average day out on the Little Orme!
Despite having 13 grandkids Norm is as keen as ever and played a big part in developing the nearby Penmaen head in recent years. Norman must be one of the only 70s ormes activists still climbing in the area today and this is testament to his motivation.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1920619141534754214?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Black Wednesday (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/black-wednesday.html)
25 January 2011, 12:19 pm
Abbing down a line and being the first person to touch a hold or guess a sequence is really cool. Its ace how mother nature supplies us with holds and features and its up to us and our imagination to connect them. Abbing down the Big Crunch on LPT was cool as that will be another hard classic one day. Although i guess Carson or Moffatt may have checked out every line down there.
Yesterday i did the other line i bolted left of Shakin Stevens. This turned out to be a bit easier but brilliant and probably 7b. I haven't done that many new routes but this is one of the better ones i've done. A cool crux starting sequence leads to two jugs and then a hard pocket move. The finish is what makes it though. The wall slabs in then steepens out on big undercuts and the stiff last jug to jug pull is a great last move. It went down first RP luckily. The name is Black Wednesday. For those North Waleans who may have been wondering where this place is we're gonna keep it under wraps while development is ongoing and there's still lines to do. It is on private land and although we have a verbal access agreement its worth testing the water a bit longer to see how it pans out. When it does get publicised properly strict parking arrangements will have to be specified as that was one of the farmers main concerns.
Then i went to the other place on a bolting mission. There is a line that is akin to a George Smith overhanging Gogarth E6/7 but limestone. A diagonal undercut groove feature that trends leftwards. Really cool and unique for a North Wales sport climb. It was epic sorting it out! Because most of the way underneath me was an undercut roof i had to have my legs high placing a lot of pressure on my hips which were already weighed down with bolting equipment. I had to dust of my trad rack so i could aid along on cams. I had a quick go on lead which was also epic, a big block i was standing on gave way and i was left swinging. I was also left swinging when a cam i was clipped into ripped. Seriously i can't believe i used to be a trad climber, its so dangerous! Climbing up massive cliffs and hoping bits of metal that have been stuffed into cracks don't come out when you fall off. Whats that about, i must have been brave back then. It climbed really well but the easiest sequence was far from obvious as the whole route is basically a hold. I figured it out anyway but it was dark at that point and the old king had had enough. Tricky one to grade, it could feel 7b for the redpoint or flash but i think a pure onsight would be significantly harder and may feel 7b+. As climbs are graded for the onsight i guess that makes it possibly 7b+. Mmmmm, answers on a postcard.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1288003194620297837?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
First Round, First Second (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/first-round-first-second.html)
29 January 2011, 12:03 am
Another hard week on the crags. I bolted two lines on wednesday. One was a big roof which looked really good but hard to assess from the ground whether it went or not so a bit of a gamble to bolt. It was hard work sorting it out on my own but i did it in a few hours. Then i shifted to the other crag and bolted a short steep bouldery thing. The holds looked ace and i'm sure it will be a nice boulder problem on a rope. The next day i was out with Norm, he did a new 6a crack and i tried my roof bolt to bolt. It was flipping cold! The roof section turned out to be ok but getting over the lip seemed hard but doable, ace! Then i jumped ship again and bolted a not very steep rib feature which looked very thin. It was almost pitch black as i was sticking the belay in. After i went to Matts board to see how things were strengthwise. I haven't worried to much about training yet as i was more concerned with getting my arms used to climbing again. It been a good stategy as i've been enjoying my climbing. I was predicatably shit on the board but took heart from the fact that i could almost do the moves on my roof even though i couldn't yet climb den 7a. Mule did a hard problem, wouldn't it be nice to never be weak! Today i went out with Robins and Ian. It was Pete's 3rd sesh on my old project but he pissed it first redpoint today. The grade is 8a+ and as another Sharma route name parody he's called it First Round, First Second as its shorter than the original and a bit easier! Really cool route and style.
First ascent here:
For the sake of comparison here is the original:
I went to work on my rib project. It had looked very thin when i bolted it with small holds. I had imagined it to be like a Homosapien (pen trwyn 7a+) affair. It turned out to be much harder. I worked out a sequence that seemed pretty tricky but i could do. It wasn't very steep but the holds were pretty bad, not really my style. Before i had a go i set the technical master loose on it to ensure i hadn't missed anything. Sure enough Pete scrapped two of my moves straight away and used (yes thats right, you've guessed it) a HEELHOOK! I tried it again and it was much better. I fell off the last hard move a few times on redpoint then punctured my soft skin in two places so had to stop. I've had a great time getting out in the last few weeks. I've enjoyed bolting and checking out new lines despite it being hard work. I've been trying to appreciate it as it won't last forever and i'll soon be back on those same old holds in the cave or LPT!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9025987150895789067?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Neil Carson - Brit makes a Big Bang! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/ormesman-of-week-neil-carson-brit-makes.html)
29 January 2011, 8:27 pm
Rewind to the mid 90s. Ondra was crimping hard on his rattle developing sick early finger strength, Moony was banging on about overgrading and Mcclure had just had an epiphany that clipping some bolts might be a good idea. Sport climbing was being fronted by the big hitting global names of Huber and Rouhling. Four 9as, a 9a+ (Hubers Open Air originally graded 9a) and Rouhling's Akira 9b were at the top of the pack. 9a was the new elite level which only a small number of climbers worldwide had achieved. Down on the shores of Lower Pen Trwyn in North Wales a little known British 8c redpointer was about to thrust British climbing into the global spotlight and leave his mark on sport climbing history. The year was 1996 and the climber in question was Neil Carson.
Neil Carson is an Ormesman who had a more transient relationship with the Ormes but whose achievements were extremely significant. This is not a story of a long term campaign of climbing in the area. Neil Carson is a North Walean however and grew up near Tremadog. He started his climbing journey with the usual trad apprenticeship and didn't even clip a bolt for 5 years. Ben Pritch commented to me that Neil seemed to hit the hard sport climbing scene from nowhere. One minute he was wandering up mountain E5s and the next he was climbing 8c. In 1995 Carson got stuck into the Orme and added a handful of quality new routes. Stark (8a) and Pas de Deux (8a+) were great additions. Carson straightened out Moon's Seagulls Dilemma with a direct start to give The Walking Mussel (8b+). The most significant of his additions however was Infanticide (8c). This started right of Liquid Ambar and shared the finish of Youthanasia. A great addition but Carson was acutely aware of the possibility of the direct finish which added more steep crimpy climbing to a good pocket before a horrendous crimpy slab of doom to the belay. He continued to train hard and this became his new goal. After another year of sustained specific structured training and climbing and after relocating to help him tick his dream route Carson topped out on The Big Bang in late summer 1996. Carson describes the process, frustrations and obsession in an interview in OTE 65:
How much mental and physical effort did you need to complete that route?
Far too much. It was extremely frustrating actually. I trained quite specifically over the winter and when i got back on the route at the beginning of '96 i was pleasantly surprised. I had gained enough power to do all the moves comfortably, making me think it was going to be a fairly straightforward process exercise to get it completed. I was hoping to get it done before the arrival of the hot weather, giving me time to concentrate on my preparation for the competitions. I kept going to Pen Trwyn and getting so close, then it all started going backwards. I ended up leaving it for quite a long time while the weather was hot. Mentally it was very annoying. I constantly wanted to get down there when the conditions would be right. There was a problem of not knowing when the next good day would be, whether to rest or do some training. It was driving me mad. When i eventually did it, i wasn't massively over the moon. It was more of a case of 'bloody hell thank god'. Just a total relief.
I'm sure most hardened redpointers can identify with these sentiments. Often when you've invested so much time and emotion, relief is the overiding emotion. I doubt at the time Carson would have thought his route would still be unrepeated over 14 years on. You can probably count the number of potential candidates who have tried it on one hand. Ben Moon had a look and described it as "sick hard". He called the crux slab boulder problem Font 7c+. Steve Mcclure's had a quick look too but didn't fancy putting any further effort in. In recent times Infanticide ascentionists James Mchaffie and Pete Robins have both checked out the upper sequence but both have yet to invest any serious time and effort into the route. The lack of repeats has given Big Bang a notoriety with a certain global website who know nothing about it speculating that it could be 9a+!!! With the recent LPT renaissance i think its about time this route got repeated. So any wads out there who are thinking about it you have until the start of August to get it crushed. After that i will use my remaining pennys to bait and fly Ondra over for a day to bag the 2nd ascent. And no more complaining about sharp holds!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6127584101904842465?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Wake Up Call (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/wake-up-call.html)
2 February 2011, 9:55 pm
Got out to the roof crag on Sunday after a night out on the sauce with some smelly climbers. I spent 45 minutes hanging on a bolt hacksawing a piece of metal sticking out the rock a bit close to my roof project (the saw was blunt!). This is a sign that the bottom of the crag was quarried. Then i bagged the FA of the diagonal grooves undercut route. This is really cool and weighed in at about 7b. It was quite a tussle in the end and the name is Three Stroke Norm (don't ask!!). Went to the Cave today to meet these aresholes:
It was a bit dark as a result of the temp increase but wasn't a total disaster. My strength is still a total disaster though and it took a visit to somewhere familiar to bring it home. I don't get a sense of how strong i am on new moves on a new route or down the Indy. In the cave every on every move i felt heavy and weak in every department. Even the old men Jim and Pritch burnt me off! For me being weak after a couple of month lay off is a different thing to being weak when you've actually been climbing. In 13 years i've only had more than 2 months off twice and the first was down to injury. Far from being disheartened i am quite optimistic and looking forward to getting anywhere back to my normal level. I have extra motivation as 3 out of my 4 bolted projects require a higher level of strength than i've got now. Plenty of reasons to gain strength. I really need to get to it now though and shock the body with some pull ups and fingerboarding.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7589355739674274949?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Rowland Edwards - Early Activist. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/ormesman-of-week-rowland-edwards-early.html)
5 February 2011, 11:00 pm
Climbers had begun to sample the climbing on the Ormes by the late 60s but the first man to fully appreciate the potential of the place and take the bull by the horns was Rowland Edwards. Rowland was working at Plas-y-Brenin and started to make increasingly frequent trips to the Ormes in 1969. After climbing his first new route Gillies Groove on the Allotment on the Little Orme, Rowland embarked on a campaign of new routing and exploration in the area. As well as adding many free routes, Rowland established some long hard aid lines which would eventually significant free routes. 1970 saw him establish the line of Detritus on the Little Orme. This featured 200 metres of difficult climbing and took many years before it saw a free ascent from John Dunne. In 1972 Rowland also spent 16 hours establishing Wall of the Evening Light which would also gain classic status as a free route at 7b+. The best discovery during this period however was undoubtedly the magnificent Catell-y-Gwynt. This big imposing sheet of white limestone beneath the lighthouse on the Great Orme provided early inspiration to Rowland and co. The first route forged up the crag was Central Pillar which wasn't freed until 1983. In 1975 Rowland established New Dimensions on the Gwynt which was to gain classic status on a national level. Jim Moran used chalk on the 3rd ascent which some believed invalidated his ascent! How times have changed! Rowland returned the following year to make the first free ascent at E4. In 1976 Rowland became the first person to produce a guidebook to the area. He had planned to do one earlier but was threatened with legal action by Mostyn Estates who have owned most of the land in Llandudno for 500 years. This highlighted the fact that climbing on many of the crags in the area was still a contentious issue and significant access negotiations would be needed in the years to come. In the late 70s Rowland scaled down his activities in the area and after graduating as a teacher he moved to Cornwall to open a rock climbing school. Rowland eventually established his climbing school on the Costa Blanca where he is now based. His thirst for new routes hasn't subsided and with his son Mark he developed many new climbs in the area. Rowland kickstarted the new routing on the Ormes and showed the way to the locals who would eventually continue his good work.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1367937600405356325?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Bolt Stuff (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/bolt-stuff.html)
6 February 2011, 10:37 pm
We will hopefully have some new areas opened up on the Orme soon as some of the banned areas are reassessed by the council with the input of BMC access rep Elfyn Jones. This means a lot of re-equipping. Check out Raymondos article about lime stuff Here (http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=360&ngroup=2). Donations mean safe routes and new areas so keep donating.
Jesus it has been pissing down here for days now. The coast is wet but not as wet as the hills. Driving to Plas-y-Brenin last night it felt like all hell and damnnation was raining down on me. Had to go home the long way round as a car and driven into a river across a flooded road and got stuck. After a late start i headed out for a mooch about. Bolted one and a half routes and went to gorgy's board which i managed to climb on for over an hour all on my own! I never could of been arsed to climb inside on my own last year. All my projects have given me a desire to improve and reach mediocrity!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4863146544143076365?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Footage (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/footage.html)
7 February 2011, 8:09 pm
I was trawling through the archives when i came across some footage of my strongest moment of last year. I remember i had just come up from finishing bolting The Big Crunch on LPT and was expecting to be completely knackered but in actual fact felt really light and had a new high point in the Cave. Such sustained hardness seems alien now but its some inspiration to look back on.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3097552863563689673?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Craftnant Circuit (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/craftnant-circuit.html)
9 February 2011, 10:32 pm
Back in 2003 i went up to the Craftnant valley with the old king to go trad climbing. We got to the base of the cliff (can't remember name) and i was eyeing up a steep e2/3 cracky thing (Phoenix??). Truth be told though i couldn't really be arsed. It was cold and windy and my attention was caught by the nearby boulder field. We went for a mooch and it turned out to be quite a big boulderfield. It seemed to have some potential despite the many horrific landings. I returned with the Cattells to try the line that was to become Wonderwall. They did the moves before me (or course!) and were chomping at the bit to climb it but were holding back to allow me the first ascent. Talk about pressure! It was my pride and joy at the time although these days its not really what i look for (nice line but fucking sharp). I gave it a ridiculous grade of V7 (it was harder). We returned with Katzy who bagged Cruella (7b/+). Danny did Grasswind at 7c which is a very nice problem and one of the only good landings there. I returned a few more times and did a few more problems. Last year i took floppy Chris up there and he was jumping around like a kid in the sweet shop spotting hard lines. He started going up with Nodder and others and many of the remaining problems were polished off including these hard beauties:
Special K (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=476)
My Own Private Idaho (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=485)
So its seems that its a bit of a venue now with loads of problems. A video of mine has been on the Beardown Productions site for years but someone asked me about it today so i uploaded it to youtube. Along with Nodders vid of a few of the newbies here it is:
New Stuff:
Old Stuff:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8085717143857323569?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Hard Week (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/hard-week.html)
11 February 2011, 11:10 pm
Phew, i had another hard week out on the crags. Wednesday was spent bolting a 20 metre line. It took me 4 hours straight to clean and bolt it. I spent hours smashing any suspicious looking bits of rock with the peg hammer until they fell off. It is a nice crag but needs a fair bit of cleaning. The next day i almost came to a sticky end trying to get to the top of a mini crag i found. I tried to get established in a easy looking gully but it was too wet and slippy so i ended up yarding up a steeper wall aping between tree branches. I ended up staring at the top with a comitting move about 8 metres up. I was about to stand up on the wet footholds when i had a reality check and realised i was about to kill myself just to get to the top of a little craglet and it probably wasn't worth it. I awkwardly got my harness on and abbed off a tree, idiot! Then i took my harness off and walked to the top round the other side, idiot! Then i went to meet Norm at Three Degrees crag. I hadn't been here since that day with Robins and was keen to tick the rib project now that my skin was better. I put two bolts in my 6b+ Ivan the Responsible as it was a bit run-out then got on my route. First RP i cocked it up then i got it next go. The name is Jumbo Loving (cos we all like a bit of Jumbo Loving!) and its probably 7c. I really this route despite it not really being my style. I was pleased as i was a bit stronger than 2 weeks ago so some small progress. Just got to get the route to the right now in a month or two and all the bolted lines will be complete. Finished off with Clitoris Allsorts 7a+ which is defo a mini classic. I have continued to train at night, did a night of pull ups and two sessions on Gorgy's board which i'm really into. I haven't had any real love for overhanging bits of wood for years and it would be very handy if i got some sustained love now as this is the best way to get really strong. And if you're enjoying yourself and into the climbing it doesn't even feel like a hard slog that you have to force yourself to do. Being psyched for board climbing is basically cheating! I spose its good now because i've got so much more improvement to come to get back to normal. Motivation might be a bit harder to come by when i eventually plateau at den 7b like usual. Today i was out with Tony at my little craglet i found. Despite being fairly small i have a soft spot for this place as it is my first crag discovery. I spent hours knocking off a lot of loose blocks of the top of the crag, as i get clearing them more were revealed underneath. They weren't on the routes but you have to get the top of the crag as free of loose rock as possible to ensure the safety of others. I eyed up 3 nice little routes and Tony bolted a couple. My unspectacular little crag:
I've bolted 12 lines this year already. For those of you wondering why i've bolted so many and only climbed 5 of them well the answer is that a few of them are slightly wet (it is February after all); a few are a little to hard for my current abilties and also i want to get as much bolted as i can before the next bout of work so i don't have to spend my weekends drilling when i want to be climbing. Right time for a weekend of culture and relaxation. I've started having dreams about drilling rock so will be good to do something else!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9193410956163014056?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Craftnant Invaders (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/craftnant-invaders.html)
12 February 2011, 9:12 pm
A team of English invaders headed up to Craftnant today. Sausage had a good day flashing Wonderwall and ticking Cruella and Grasswind and a ten minute ascent of Special K. Jordan then flashed Special K! Sausage said 7b for Wonderwall and Cruella. Wonderwall probably will feel 7b if you can lock off on small crimps on a steep wall but i reckon most 7b climbers would have a tussle with it post break. It would be v10 in hueco thats for sure. Good to see the place getting some attention.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3757319499883574354?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormeman of the Week: Pete Harrison - Services to Re-equipping. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/ormeman-of-week-pete-harrison-services.html)
13 February 2011, 5:00 pm
Ever had a good idea but then come to the decision that it’s too much like hard work? There are plenty of things we'd all love to do but actually getting around to it is often one step too far. Well this isn't the case for this weeks Ormesman of the week. Rebolt LPT and lots of upper drive routes - check. Establish 90 metre horizontal line across the little Orme - check. Decide to write a North Wales Limestone guide with all proceeds going to the bolt fund - check.
Pete Harrison is a man who doesn't mess about. Once he's decided on doing something he just gets on with it, no faffing or procrastination. I only came across Pete on the Orme a few years ago. He grew up in the area but had time away in the armed forces and a stint living in Canada. I was on the pavement and I could see this guy on Mumbo Jumbo area on a rope doing some rebolting. It was to become a familiar sight. Pete soon took his re-equipping mission down to LPT. The bolt situation on LPT was quite inconsistent. The majority off the routes had good eco bolts but there were plenty with rusty old expansion bolts that desperately needed replacing. Some routes were well bolted but had one or two shit bolts that needed replacing. Pete started on the right side of the crag and worked his way leftwards making sure every route had decent resin bolts. A few routes were fully bolted but relied on the odd wire placement (e.g. Face Race and Mean Mother). These were bolted properly so you could leave your rack on the ground. I had placed a few bolts on a few of the harder routes and had rebolted Liquid Ambar but these were mainly for selfish reasons as these were climbs I wanted to try. Pete did his bolting for the good of the crag and as a result 2009 and 2010 turned out to be golden years for LPT. Nearly every route had chalk on it and routes like Parasite and Walking Mussel that had basically been ignored for years were seeing attempts. I would be in the cave staring down at LPT watching this guy dangling above the sea with the petrol drill.
Over the years a few people had suggested the idea of establishing a hand line across the Craig-y-Don seawalls to gain access to the Diamond on the Little Orme. This crag had hardly been climbed on for 20 years despite its impressive walls, existing routes and projects. It would surely become a forgotten crag if some reliable form of access wasn't established. When Pete heard the idea he decided he would crack on with it. The logistics of establishing a horizontal line like this on your own is beyond me. It took Pete a lot of effort and he did indeed have some worrying moments with knots stuffed into cracks facing huge pendulums etc…. Pete placed resin bolts across the walls and linked them with static line. The end result was brilliant, the hand line was perfect and finally we could go to the Diamond without getting wet and have a decent amount of time at the crag. I for one was over the moon after a few dodgy moments wading in and out and the sinking dingy escapade with Mawson. I could also try The Brute project after rebolting it a few years previous. A new generation of Orme climbers could experience the Diamond for the first time and this amazing crag provided a brilliant new alternative to LPT. Of course Pete didn't stop there and did some more re-equipping. This year he rebolted the classic but neglected Wall of the Evening Light so that should get some attention next season. It sounds amazing! A lot of work happens on Pen Trwyn checking the lower offs for the BMC; Pete has been one of the main people doing this along with Andy Boorman and Chris Parkin. This is also essential work which is time consuming.
Back in November I was told that a group of locals planned to release a lime guide with the proceeds going to the bolt fund. It came as no surprise to learn that Pete was spearheading this project and was doing the bulk of the work putting the guide together. He has spent a lot of hours cutting his teeth with the software and co-ordinating the efforts. I’m sure it will be a great guide.
So after reading this I’m sure you’ll agree with me that Pete’s efforts in recent years have been outstanding and that the Orme and all us climbers owe him a debt of gratitude for his efforts. I would say buy him a pint when you see him but he’d probably rather you just give the money to the bolt fund! Nice one mate, you’re probably blushing reading this you modest git.
The drilling machine:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8269377800854985492?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Dave and Chris Lyon, new route machines! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/ormesman-of-week-dave-and-chris-lyon.html)
19 February 2011, 8:52 pm
In the late 70s two local brothers Dave and Chris Lyon, hit the Orme new routing scene with a vengeance and continued Rowland Edwards' good work in the area. Dave in particular would put up new routes across the Ormes and would become the areas most prolific new router ever! The Lyon's left their mark on nearly every crag over the next 20 years. The brothers began development on Crinkle Crags and Wonderwall and scaled the walls of the Little Orme putting up new routes. Norman told me that he went to stay at their place one night and as soon as the clock struck 9 the TV went off and it was lights out for an early start. True professionals! They bucked the trend of development above the road and put up the first route on LPT, Twisting by the Pool E4. Despite adding another route Jacuzzi, Jive the crag was largely ignored for another year before things really kicked off in 84 Chris became disillusioned with the climbing scene but Dave continued to put up new routes throughout the 80s and this culminated in his ascent of Ocean of Emotion 7b+ on Detritus Wall. This went into the 92 Rockfax as the only 4 star route. If you can get it guano free this is a brilliant adventure sport climb. Dave still owns Lyon Sport in Llandudno.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6010478642421161413?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Big One (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/big-one.html)
20 February 2011, 11:19 am
After bolting 15 routes this year i wanted to finish this bolting campaign with a big project. During the many days i spent trying Temple of Gloom in the main cave at Llandulas last year i spent a fair amount of time eyeing up the line to the right. There was another obvious weakness which looked just as good if not better. I went up a few times this year to have another look. It's even more dark and gloomy in there in winter so it was hard to see much. I returned with my clip stick and aided up the new 6b that starts on the right and climbs diagonally into the top of Zoidberg. I abbed off an appropriate bolt and came down the finish of the line. There seemed to be many potential holds and sequences, just the ticket! I returned again with the drill and bolted the end of the route. I spent the next few weeks pestering Tony as i needed a ladder off his van to bolt the roof sections. Unlike Temple of Gloom no one had looked at this line before so there was nothing in the roof to assist bolting it. Tony sacrificed his Saturday morning and we slogged up the muddy hill with the kit and ladder. I ended up sticking five bolts in the roof section. It was very interesting to see the holds close up and feel them. My first impression was that it seemed a bit harder than i had imagined from the floor. The intitial depressions only yielded a couple of holds and i had to prise off some loose stuff that i had expected to use. However there seemed to be a sequence, that was the main thing. You can never tell without trying these things properly but i'm optimistic that it will go down. If i can crack the start i'm sure it will go. A seige is not a problem, if this is what it requires a seige i'm the man for the job. I'll probably hold off trying it til i'm climbing a bit stronger again. It looked brilliant and it actually steepens a bit sooner than Temple.
Happy with my efforts i went off to do some bouldering at a little bouldering cave we'd found. There was a hard project there which i was really keen for. It was just what i liked, steep limestone overhang with a big crux move off a lovely small pinch. I knew i wouldn't be up to it at the moment but i was keen to see what it was all about. After doing two very nice easier problems i had a go. There was some mud in the back of the pinch so i scraped it out. It had become a much juggier pinch which didn't upset me too much. I tried to pull on and the flipping hold came off. I should have replaced the mud with resin.
Darn, well you can't win em all! Off to work again next week so i've handed the bolting baton over to Norm and Tony!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3248896255026647722?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Colin Goodey - The Original (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/ormesman-of-week-colin-goodey-original.html)
27 February 2011, 11:13 am
Colin Goodey is the original Ormesman. He started the ball rolling and was the first man to venture onto the Orme with climbing in mind. In 1947 at the age of 11 Colin and his brother started bouldering and top roping on some small crags at West Shore. Colin lived close to the Orme and transport and finances meant that getting to Snowdonia was very inconvenient. In the Summer of 1950 Colin led the first route on the orme with a single 100 foot length of manilla rope and nailed boots. The route was Pigeon's Chimney VD on the Toll Gate Crags. Colin rates the best new route of those early days as Colin's Groove VS which was put up in August 1952. By 1956 Colin and friends had motorcycles and so extended their climbing to Snowdonia. They returned in 1958 to practise their pegging for a trip to the Dolomites. By 1960 they were pegging across the huge roof at Elephants Cave. Colin also discovered Craig-y-Forwen and Castle Inn Quarry. Colin is in his 70s now but is just as active today. He has developed quite a few new routes on the slate and Tony even caught him sniffing around a new venue on the Orme the other day. Once an Ormesman always an Ormesman!
Colin with the old king:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5627971010460633881?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
A Trifle Lazy (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/trifle-lazy.html)
27 February 2011, 11:33 am
I was glad to be back at work this week as the finances were getting rather stretched to say the least. The plan was to cane the training after work. I did some pull ups the first night but faded the rest of the week. I just couldn't be arsed! Pascal was on the beastmaker for and hour and a half every night and i was sat down eating trifle. I just enjoy sitting down and couldn't make myself do it. If there had been a board i would have been all over it but sometimes i struggle with motivation for pull up bars and fingerboards. I knew it was bad news and wasn't expecting much from climbing yesterday. Headed to Three Degrees Crag with Spidey. This place has been seeing a lot of use by the locals who are loving it. A few were there yesterday including Dave who works at my old haunt Prestatyn Leisure Centre. This was the first climbing wall i started using, me and the Cattells had some meaty stamina circuits. Dave has climbed on this crag quite a bit over the years top roping bits and bobs, he climbed here with Andy Boorman and Andy Pollitt as far back as the 70s. Spidey got stuck into Clitoris Allsorts and got it bagged.
I tried my remaining project there, a boulder problem on a rope affair. I had tried it briefly before but it was a bit too powerful. Yesterday i spent a bit longer on it and did the moves. Need more strenght to link it though. The holds and the moves are ace.
Then we jumped ship to its neighbour where i have two more projects. One is a meaty roof and corner which i had tried a few times but not done all the moves. This time i got the moves quite quickly and some links. It didn't feel quite as hard as i had first thought and i discovered some better beta. It is flippin brilliant though and it feels ace to climb on. Should go down pretty soon.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5673420732936572195?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Colin Goodey - The Original (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/02/ormesman-of-week-colin-goodey-original.html)
27 February 2011, 11:13 am
Colin Goodey is the original Ormesman. He started the ball rolling and was the first man to venture onto the Orme with climbing in mind. In 1947 at the age of 11 Colin and his brother started bouldering and top roping on some small crags at West Shore. Colin lived close to the Orme and transport and finances meant that getting to Snowdonia was very inconvenient. In the Summer of 1950 Colin led the first route on the orme with a single 100 foot length of manilla rope and nailed boots. The route was Pigeon's Chimney VD on the Toll Gate Crags. Colin rates the best new route of those early days as Colin's Groove VS which was put up in August 1952. By 1956 Colin and friends had motorcycles and so extended their climbing to Snowdonia. They returned in 1958 to practise their pegging for a trip to the Dolomites. By 1960 they were pegging across the huge roof at Elephants Cave. Colin also discovered Craig-y-Forwen and Castle Inn Quarry. Colin is in his 70s now but is just as active today. He has developed quite a few new routes on the slate and Tony even caught him sniffing around a new venue on the Orme the other day. Once an Ormesman always an Ormesman!
Colin with the old king:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5627971010460633881?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
Colin is still mad keen - he rang me up the other day to pick my brains about one of the crag xs on the Ormes that he is lining up for development (wonder if this is the same place that Tony saw him?). I hope I'm that active when I get to his age!
By the way there is still a good 7C/+ boulder problem project to do at this forgotten old venue.
-
a pint for the knowledge? :alky:
-
Colin is still mad keen - he rang me up the other day to pick my brains about one of the crag xs on the Ormes that he is lining up for development (wonder if this is the same place that Tony saw him?).
I'm sure it is. He's fit as a fiddle!
-
a pint for the knowledge? :alky:
Oh, go on then - I'm so cheap.
:beer2:
-
Strength Reflections (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/strength-reflections.html)
1 March 2011, 9:54 pm
Just been doing some training down here in Kent. Fairly simplistic stuff, 45 minutes of pull ups til failure on the beastmaker big and small edges. I'm going to be working a lot this month with limited rock time so will need to pull my finger out after work. I've accepted much hard work is needed to get me out of this current rut. Over two months off and 10 pounds of weight put on is the problem. And it seemed like such a good idea at the time! Normally i'd be getting fairly demoralised by now and indeed i have been here before. I can remember sitting in the School and the Den after a bit of downtime despairing about my form. This time i'm probably even shitter but my saving grace has been that i have had some pretty cool stuff to climb on to break up the training and keep me motivated. Although i know the stuff i have been doing/am trying would usually be first redpoint affairs trying hard always feels the same and it always feels good. Tonight i got thinking about my strength history. Feeling strong is one of the great feelings in climbing. Strong moments don't even have to result in a top out to be memorable. Doing a move that you never thought you'd do or maybe a one armer on a hold you've been trying to deadhang for years. Its been a few years since i trained consistently. I lost some love for climbing on boards and training and have just been getting out on the rock as much as possible. One day i would really like to push the physical side again and really improve and push the next grades but i'm aware that this will take six months of hard training. For me i know to get to my best, training is essential. I will never get as strong on the crag as i can on the board. We all have had mutant periods in our climbing. These are the times when you crush your hardest routes and boulders. For most people it takes a quick step up from their normal level to achieve their hardest climbs. For me it has been different. There are two times in my climbing that i have felt significantly stronger than normal. During these periods my level shot up for a short period of time, i did some stuff and then i returned to normal. In 2005 i lost a load of weight and felt a level of strength that i hadn't experienced before. I didn't do much this time really. I did the Hulk at Crag X and then went to Raven Tor and almost did Hooligan Start in a session. I was foiled by a split tip. I felt so light and steely, it was amazing. In 2008 the same thing happened. This time i managed to do Zeke on the quick and Jack the Drunk which is my hardest problem. I've done loads of stuff i'm pleased with under normal strength conditions but these higher levels of performance do feel strange as they're so far from my normal every day level. It almost feels like i didn't do these climbs. I could probably train specifically for the next year and might not be able to repeat these feats. I do find it frustrating as my body has achieved a really satisfying level but the day to day reality is so different. I bet Pascal could do Spectre again in the same time if he went back to Bishop. And Danny would get back up Louis Armstrong if he really wanted to. I thought the whole idea was to train, get stronger, plateau, maybe lose a bit, then push on etc... This might read like a whiney post, i am grateful that i have had these experiences but it can be a bit demoralising at the same time. Anyone who's had similar experiences get in touch. Hang on i just thought of one, Paul B on Voyager!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1544511167962967379?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Grade Creep (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/grade-creep.html)
3 March 2011, 12:01 pm
There has been some debate via email this week by the Bolt Fund guide committee on the grade of Masterclass on the Orme. Masterclass was originally graded 7c+ by Jerry Moffatt and was regarded for years as benchmark for the grade. These days most regard it as solid 8a and this raises an interesting issue for the guide. Do you keep historical routes such as Masterclass as their original grades or do you bring them in line with modern standards? My argument has been that it is more important for the grades of routes to be relative to one another than sticking to different grading scales for different eras. To give Masterclass 7c+ would affect all the other routes around 7c+/8a in the area. This is also an issue on the global scene. When Wolfgang Gullich climbed Action Directe he graded it Xl which equated to 8c+/9a. Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt were also pushing the limits at the time and their ascents were defining the grading system at the top end. Ben had done Agincourt one of the worlds first 8c's and Hubble the worlds first 8c+. Jerry had established Liquid Ambar in 1990, Britain's first 8c. In the mid 90s however Moon was becoming alarmed at the contracting of the grading scale and reports of 9a's and even 9b going up when he believed that 8c and 8c+ had not been consolidated properly. The grade creep had started! After doing Bronx and Super Plafond 8c+ in France, Moon believed them to be no harder than two 8c's in Britain, Sea of Tranquility and Liquid Ambar. Action Directe which Moon had got close to and believed it to be hard 8c+ soon became regarded as 9a and that was probably the catalyst for the way grades evolved at the top end. The proliferation of sport climbing areas across the world also had an impact and the parameters set out in the late 80s/early 90s soon became diluted. In Britain we have clung onto some of those early standards and certain routes like Liquid Ambar have retained their original grades over the years. It is clear now though that despite the historical repercussions (Britain's first 8c being 8c+!) that it makes no sense to keep these routes within a grade paremeter that is now obselete. These days we have Ondra travelling extensively and repeating most hard stuff old and new everywhere he goes. He has donwgraded many routes and upgraded some. Significantly he upgraded Huber's mega route from 96 Open Air to 9a+. These are significant shifts but at the end of the day although its a shame that the early pioneer's vision of the grading system has been adjusted somewhat it is more important that a grading system is consistent and depicts a routes difficulty in relation to other routes.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-642903045583205456?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Tony Shelmerdine - The Encyclopedia (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/ormesman-of-week-tony-shelmerdine.html)
6 March 2011, 8:40 pm
For my generation of Orme climbers Tony is the person who first comes to mind when you're talking about Ormesmanship. Tony has spent a lot of time climbing in the area for 20 years. He's scaled the majority of routes all over the Orme, climbed on every crag and even soloed about 30 routes. When i'm looking for some potential new lines i'll give Tony a bell and try and stimulate his memory. He knows about every bit of limestone round these parts but sometimes hasn't thought about them for years so needs a bit of prodding. I'm often sat there with a piece of paper while he fires off the info: "there's this route here, and this crag there, and this route here..." His knowledge is testament to the hours he's spent in the area and in North Wales in general. Tony was one of the first people to collect cash for the early bolt funds. He carried a jar out at the crags with him. Those who were seen to be enjoying the re-equipping work but wouldn't contribute were confronted with the Shelmerdine growl. Quite a scary thing! Only one man can get you where all the smoking holes are on the wall on the marine drive. Despite his knackered elbows Tony is as keen as ever and has been my partner in crime on the crag development scene.
Me, tone and spidey underneath Yellow Walls:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4113892786922612931?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Meatsville Arizona (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/meatsville-arizona.html)
6 March 2011, 9:01 pm
I picked the right day of the weekend to go climbing this week. Saturday was all misty and damp so i pampered myself at the posh spa near me. I got out with Norm today, i wanted to try and finish off my roof project that i'd failed on last week. I was feeling the pressure as i'm just about to embark on a 12 day stint of work and i wanted to get it done. I played around with the bit i fell off last week and found some better beta. Then i belayed Norm on his project before pulling it out the bag on redpoint. There was some freestyling going on as i powered out but i managed to sketch up it. Its a great route, probably my 3rd favourite new route that i've done. I had been convinced that it was 7c+ but last week it felt easier so its probably 7c. Now for 12 days off work and pull ups. Hopefully i won't be any shitter when i go climbing next.
Vid with quality Norm commentary:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4040991369156321017?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Bonnie Extension (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/bonnie-extension.html)
8 March 2011, 9:12 pm
Ben Bransby has climbed an extension to Bonnie in the cave.Ben had played on the line with Pete Robins last week.Pete was raving about the moves Into the top of werry's. The line needed two extra bolts.Ben returned today to bag the FA.Pritch was on hand to capture the ascent on camera.The grade is in the region of font 8a+/b.The full link from Lou Ferrino is an obvious challenge.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-396088446483077687?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Steve Mayers - Early 90s activist (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/ormesman-of-week-steve-mayers-early-90s.html)
12 March 2011, 9:48 pm
Steve Mayers was an Orme activist in the late 80s early 90s. Steve is a well known British beast adding some significant new routes to North Wales and beyond. Although probably best known for his trad ascents Steve put up some good new routes on the Ormes including Youthanasia (8b) on LPT, Specular Reflections (8a) and The Shining (8a) on the Diamond. Youthanasia was briefly 8a+ but has long been regarded as 8b and not an easy one. Pete Robins described the top moves as some of the best on the crag. Steve was one of the early pioneers of the Diamond. It must have been quite something abbing off the top of the Little Orme onto the sea of steepness that is the Diamond. Bolting it must have been fun too. Steve got very close to climbing The Brute project and it was the photo of him on it in the guide that got me inspired to try it. Steve started the North Wales Bolt Fund in 1991 which helped fund the DMM eco bolt which became commonplace on the Ormes. Steve also authored the 1992 Rockfax guidebook to the area which was the first guide to include photo-topos. Still living in North Wales Steve is a partner/director of The Beacon Climbing wall.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6458946164493159874?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New 8a at the Mwyn! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/new-8a-at-mwyn.html)
14 March 2011, 10:30 pm
Sam 'mule' Cattell has returned to his old stomping ground of Pantymwyn near mold and done a cracking new 8a traverse problem. Spinal Tap starts on the lefthand side of the main crag down and right of the obvious hole on a flat jug. The problem traverses righwards into the finish of Be Ruthless. Mule has been climbing at the mwyn for over ten years now establishing nearly every problem. He says his new addition is the best one he's done there. Mules career has been blighted by injuries so its good to see him cranking although he never seems to be weak. In the hills he also repeated the sitter to the Caseg Groove,another 8a.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3478437963816517948?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week - Andy Boorman, puller of strings. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/ormesman-of-week-andy-boorman-puller-of.html)
20 March 2011, 7:56 pm
Behind every great movement there are those behind the scenes. Andy Boorman has not got the rack of FAs that some of the other Ormesman have but he's been climbing in the area since the 70s and has been involved in access negotiations over the years. In recent times he's checked lower offs and added rings to the crags and is one of the mian collaborators of the Bolt Fund guide. I'll let him tell his own story:
I moved to Prestatyn in 1978, taking up a teaching post at the High School. Cash was short so local climbing venues were very important and there was a great supply of keen youngsters in the school to get out and explore the crags with: Andy Pollitt, Dave Prendergast, Trevor Hodgson, Anthony Ingham and so forth. The Rowland Edwards 1975 guidebook Climbs on North Wales Limestone was our bible and we did a good job of ticking it and getting rid of the odd point of aid. Andy P swung leads with me on The New Dimension and Moon Shadow in 1980 and soon the pupil became the coach! He moved on to Jerry Moffatt and I linked up with Pete Bailey - a great man to have around on the scary parts of the Ormes.
Summer evenings were devoted to Craig y Forwyn and the Ormes, with chips then a pint in the Cottage Loaf to finish off the fun.
I'm not one for epics or accidents but in the late 90s some careless footwork just below the first bolt on Firefly led me to inherit a very sore arse, a cracked wrist bone and a large clip-stick!
Attached scan from my logbook page in 1992 gives a flavour of those grand days and evenings.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8370660960887207726?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Tony Stud (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/tony-stud.html)
21 March 2011, 8:01 pm
After two weeks off the rock i finally got to go climbing on Sunday afternoon. I have been doing pull ups down in Kent which help stop the rot but i struggle to find the motivation to do enough to actually get stronger. I really think i'm going to struggle to improve without climbing. It's a shame as i was starting to drag myself out of the doldrums a month ago but then i had to go away to some very terrible places. On Sunday i met some Sheffielders on the way back from LAMFF at Llanddulas. I belayed Lucy Creamer on a route as she got some pics for an article. Back in early February i bolted a line that Tony had tried on the Forgotten Sun Area. It follows Ralarwdins for the first 4 bolts then breaks out right up the blue headwall. Tony had struggled on a move or two, he had placed a high stud to work it but gave me the green light to fully bolt it. I was impressed on the abseil, i had gazed up at this wall before but never had the vision to think about it as a route. When i was off work i didn't get to try it as the top was wet. Yesterday I went bolt to bolt as a warm up which turned out to be a bad idea after not climbing for a while as my forearms went all jellylike. Regardless I managed to sprint it out first redpoint freestyling a bit. Its quite surprising that no ones done this as its quite an obvious line on a well developed sector, that is the beauty of North Wales i guess! The name is Tony Stud, as i was encouraged to bolt it by, Tony's high stud and he is a stud of course. Not certain about grade but its probably 7b, don't laugh me out of town if i'm wrong. We popped up to the main cave and i had a quick play on the first crux of my new roof project. It needs a good clean as is quite dusty but i was able to get a feel for it. I think i know how the sequence works, need to try it when i've got more time and i'm strong again. Back in work now, fingers crossed i'll get out next weekend again, loads more to do! Climbing is frustrating at the moment but the truth is i'm just happy that i love it again.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2833326040868798101?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Check it out. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/check-it-out.html)
22 March 2011, 8:21 pm
The hottest new thing on the blogosphere is yorkshires very own sex machine, the man with the piston pumping levers and a tight little booty. No i'm not talking about Steve Dunning its this man (http://markekatz.blogspot.com/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4945727693214415329?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Wobbly Block Back On (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/wobbly-block-back-on.html)
26 March 2011, 8:07 pm
I went to the cave today and resined the wobbly block back in place. It slid back into place so with the glue i'd be surprised if it came off again. It should be fine to climb on from sunday. Jump on fat bastards!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4130647886153639759?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week - Pete Robins, The Ticking Machine (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/ormesman-of-week-pete-robins-ticking.html)
27 March 2011, 9:37 am
Pete is the most recent Ormesman. It is only in recent years that he's got properly stuck into the place and spent some significant time there. Pete has been climbing since he was quite young and up until a few years ago trad was the main event in his climbing. After climbing thousands of routes all over the place and onsighting many hard trad routes Pete fancied a different challenge and set about getting strong. I remember him failing on my problem Ain't No Party (7a+)in 2006. I also remember him absolutely taking ages to do Trigger Cut! In one of the greatest transformations ever he shed a load of weight, started training and climbed more overhangs. In a few years Pete went from finding Trigger Cut the living end to completing the 2nd ascent of Silk Cut! Talk about rags to riches. hollywood ain't got nothing on this. I guess the modern Ormesman needs to have cut his teeth in the Cave and Pete certainly has. He already has some impressive FAs to his name including In Heaven, The Wire and the seriously impressive Incredible Bulk. Petes trademark is his speed, don't blink as he sets off up Lou Ferrino as this takes about 0.4 seconds. With his new found beastliness Pete also went to work on LPT and soon got ticking through the 8's. The 8a's, Melancholie and Walking Mussel soon succombed and in 2009 he embarked on what would become an epic mission on the very classic Liquid Ambar. Pete spent over 20 sessions down there trying it relentlessly. I remember him going down one minging humid afternoon as the sea clag made everything minging. I thought he was mad going down in that weather but he'd driven over from the hills and was psyched. He got it done in September and you can see the ascent in the Welsh Connections film. In 2010 the LPT campaign continued and Pete added a new link - Wild Youth. The next obvious one was Infanticide which went down without too much of a fight. After a look at Big Bang, Pete channelled his energies into Sea of Tranquility and after another seige topped out on the 2nd ascent becoming the first person to tick the 3 big 8's of LPT, quite an achievement. Pete does his training at the crag and usually leaves absolutely spent. He finishes off his day lapping tough problems in the cave or by lapping 8as down LPT! Pete has an unwavering psyche which is probably one of his greatest strengths. It will be good to see what he gets up to this year, i know he's got a few things lined up, lets hope he doesn't dust off his rack just yet!
Melon Beach 2nd ascent:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6575784704722177521?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
KO Wall (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/ko-wall.html)
27 March 2011, 7:59 pm
Me and Norm have developed a new little sector at Llanddulas. I bolted a steep line similar to Sticky Fingers back in early February and Norm bolted a line to the left and two to the right more recently. Today i did my route, quite nice and with a very distinct crux. The grade is 7b and the name is What Man Would?, after a chat me and Dyer had in Indy! Last week Norm did the line to the left at 6c, this is called Two C's in a KO. Norm also bolted two 5's to the right, he gave the first to Fran Gowling and Norm led the last route on the right himself, this is called Elizabeth Taylor. All in all a nice little addition. To get here follow the path away from the main cave on the same level. Very shortly you will see a smaller path breaking off right up the hill. Shortly Sector Ko becomes obvious to the right of the path. Then we got in the car and went to another Crag X. I did a new 20 metre 6c+ which is as good as anything i've done at the grade in North Wales. Was getting quite pumped at the top!
Two C's in a KO:
What Man Would?
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8528981698302962514?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week: Jerry Moffatt - Orme Star Takes on the World (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/ormesman-of-week-jerry-moffatt-orme.html)
2 April 2011, 9:38 am
Jerry Moffatt is an Ormesman who went on to make a big splash on the global scene. Jerry became one of the best climbers (maybe the best!) in the world but his climbing career started in the Llandudno area as he attended St Davids boarding school. This weeks research was easy as i have a copy of Jerry's autbiography, Revelations. If you haven't read it yet you should as its quite an inspiring read. You can order it here (http://www.v-publishing.co.uk/titles/biography/jerry-moffatt-revelations.html). Jerry started to get the bug on a trip to nearby Craig-y-Forwyn. It was there he met up with Andy Pollitt who was the same age. The two youngsters were very keen and soon they ventured onto the Great Orme. Andy wanted to try and free the aid route Mayfair. Jerry describes his thoughts in Revelations:
The line was blanker and steeper than anything either of us had tried before, by a long way. It just felt like a waste of time, as i really couldn't see any way it could be climbed, and felt a bit miffed at Andy's over-optimism.
They bagged the first free ascent, a trend which would continue through the 80s.
In 1983 things really began to take off on Pen Trwyn with many of the top British climbers heading there regularly. Jerry was right in the centre of this scene. Jerry describes sunny days on the Orme in his book. It sounds like not much has changed, music coming form the pier organ and the hustle and bustle of Llandudno. Jerry and pals slept in the Cave and enjoyed a simplistic life. Jerry first met Ben Moon on the Orme and the pair would hone their skills there. Jerry left his mark with two hard first ascents. Oyster was the first to go down. Back then it was a mere E6, these days its regarded as 8a! Jerry then climbed Masterclass as Wofgang Gullich looked on. It was 1983 and this was the hardest route in the country at 7c+ (although it would have been regarded as E7 then). No one knows if the route has undergone any significant changes (lost holds?) since Jerry did it but compared with the rest of the routes in the area this route is certainly worth 8a these days. Did Jerry crack 8a in 83, i guess we'll never know! In 1987 Jerry began his most significant Orme journey. He had noticed the line that would become Liquid Ambar after climbing Statement in 1984 and in 1987 he placed the first bolts in it:
Abseling down the line, i placed some bolts and confirmed my thoughts. It would be extremely hard, but there did look to be just about enough holds to make it climbable. It looked amazing, right up my street and i began to work on it. It took a lot of time to sort the moves out and i spent a good few days on it that year. It was extremely tough, much harder than anything else i had ever done and my attempts carried on into the following year
Jerry's attempts were curtailed by a motorcycle accident but he returned in 1990 and completed the ascent. In Jerry's book it is clear that this ascent meant more to him than almost any other. He had climbed Britains first 8c, a real cutting edge route of great quality. Liquid Ambar has only seen 3 ascents since 1990 which i bet Jerry would not have believed at the time if someone had told him. It is a bit of a shame it doesn't get more attention as it is a historical classic and one of the best hard routes in the country. It seems to be regarded by most as 8c+ these days. This route hasn't changed since the first ascent so grading it 8c+ has significant historical ramifications as it would have pipped Hubble to the post as the worlds first 8c+. I don't know whether this is right or not but i can guess what Jerry and Moony think about this! I came across Jerry a few times when i moved to Sheffield. I remember one occasion in the nightclub, Bed (now Sainsbury's). Jerry was walking down the stairs next to me and in shock i shouted at him: "You're Jerry Moffatt". He looked at me and a big cheeky grin came on his face:"thats right i am" he replied I was starstruck and spent most of the rest of the night hanging out by the mens bogs to get another glimpse of the legend. Last night i dreamt that Ondra tried to onsight LA, he got through the first hard section and the cocked up on the crux. Now there's a show i'd like to see!
LA:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1044674954711312440?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I love this blog. Obvious passion and real effort to write something interesting for the average reader. :thumbsup:
-
Good stuff, I've really enjoyed this series.
On a pedantic historical point, was Requiem (8a+) done some time after Masterclass in 1983? The impression I get from the biography is that Jerry was the 'best climber in the world' around 1983, but wasn't Cubby climbing a grade or two harder around the same time, and ground-up, and on trad?
-
Ye Cubby doesn't get to much of a mention does he. Like you said 8a+ in 83, pretty meaty!
-
another great addition doylo,the history in the area is great, you should write a book
-
Mediocre Excellence (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/mediocre-excellence.html)
3 April 2011, 6:28 pm
My routine Sunday afternoon jaunt was almost curtailed by rain today. Still i needed to climb so pressed on to a steep crag that i thought would be dry. Sure enough it was and i bagged a new 7a/+ that was very good. My climbing life is strange at the moment. I'm weak as piss, unfit and overweight and my arms feel like jelly after being on the rock for 5 minutes. Despite this i've had the most enjoyable start to a year ever and have done ten new routes. I've enjoyed all of them, they've all been interesting and challenging in there own way and i'm grateful that the old boys of North Wales left them for me. Things should be slowing down soon and i'll be re-aquainted with the long hard slog again. I've got 3 diddy newbies to do which should be fine and a good harder one then the last two i'm going to have to get a lot stronger for. Love it! Lee Proctor repeated Tony Stud and What Man Would? at Dulas. Thankfully for my grading insecurities he confirmed them at 7b and said he and his mate thought Tony Stud could be 7b+. Good to hear as i'd started to convince myself it was 7a+. They thought it was excellent too. One of my other favourites Black Wednesday has been touted at 7a+ instead of 7b but me and Lee still think soft 7b. Time will tell!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3204229637786220706?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Watch out Ondra (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/watch-out-ondra.html)
10 April 2011, 5:17 pm
If you haven't seen it already this video of Ondra onsighting Mind Control at Oliana is a must watch. Aswell as being well filmed and put together this vid shows the incredible level that Ondra is performing at. Since the early 90s there hasn't really been a clear 'best climber in the world'. We've had many hard routes put up but no one really breaking away from the pack. At this moment Ondra is breaking away from the current crop with every climbing day. I always thought that if onsighting got up to 8c/+ level then the climbers would need a large element of luck, perfect conditions and also would have to slap there way vigoruously up a route looking like they could fall on any move. With Ondra on this route we see him hanging out and shuffling on holds and taking time to make decisions. You really have no feel for how hard the moves that he is doing are. It really is remarkable. The fact that the route is flippin wet also makes it even more impressive and indicates that this isn't actually his limit. Truly historic footage!
BD athlete Adam Ondra onsights Mind Control (8c+), Oliana, Spain (http://vimeo.com/21939923) from Black Diamond Equipment (http://vimeo.com/blackdiamond) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
In sharp contrast my arms felt tired warming up on a 3 bolt 6b yesterday! I went to check out some new stuff Lee Proctor has been doing in the Clwyd. He's done some good stuff. Me and spidey did a short 7a+ that was immaculate and contained probably the best move i've done on a route of this grade, a big dynamic slap where your hand travels miles. Very morpho! Then we went to a little craglet Spidey has developed. He has done 2 6's there and last year Danny C did a 7b/+. Spidey has a project there which he has been trying and falling off the last move for 2 years. I had a quick go, its a very Frankenjuraesque route with a crux involving a pocket and a heel hook.
I think he'll do it soon. Come on Spidey!
Lee repeated Danny's route thinking 7b:
I'm going to eat loads of salad this week and hopefully get on the fingerboard. The trouble is pascal doesn't finish training til 8.30 and i really can't be arsed by then. Everytime i go climbing its as so my arms don't know what i'm doing to them. They should, i've been at it 15 years!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9155472968317897263?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesman of the Week - George Smith,hard FA crusher (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/ormesman-of-week-george-smithhard-fa.html)
10 April 2011, 6:34 pm
Tony is of the opinion that some of my Ormesmen of the week don't actually qulify for the title as a true Ormesman has "climbed on every crag and done most the routes". I guess i agree with him, a few show stopping ascents doesn't make a true Ormesman but i'm widening the scope of Ormesmanship in order to make a more entertaining series!
George Smith is more well known for his trad antics at Gogarth and elsewhere than for his efforts on the Ormes. He does have some impressive first ascents to his name and spent a considerable amount of time climbing in the area. George was one of the early pioneers of the Diamond and must have braved that epic abseil off the top of the Little Orme trying to find his way through the mass of overhanging rock. Amazingly his Skip of Fools 8a+ is the hardest thing there (if you've seen this crag you'll understand this comment!). Never Get Out of the Boat has had several ascents since the Diamond renaissance with common opinion rating it as one of the best 8a's on the Ormes. I find the efforts of the early Diamondsmen very impressive as equipping the routes must have taken a lot of effort not to mention the small detail of getting in there. It's a stressful enough crag as it is now with the handline access! George also stamped his mark on Pigeons Cave with 3 first ascents. Until recent times this has been another place that has been left to rot. There is still 3 routes to re-equip down there. George's Stiff Upper Lip is a fantastic roof climb unlike anything else on the Ormes. Big burly moves lead you to a jug before a droppable last move. Pete Robins made the first ascent of this for a long time last year. Apparently George spent days and days trying to get to his belay before he realised he wasn't going to do it and dropped it a metre or so. The extension is a great project. George is also responsible for Wild Understatement, Parasite and Fair Sized Fish down on LPT. Wild Understatement was upgraded to 8a+ in the recent LPT boom years. Its like Statement only much harder (and thats hard enough!). Parasite is a route that was always looked down upon as a result of its proximity to Mussel Beach. The fact is though if Parasite has been done first Mussel beach would be the parasite! Its great climbing and is now justifiably popular. The top blue headwall must be sampled. On top of the Little Orme the esoteric Magic Flute 7c is another George creation and well worth seeking out. George is a North Wales legend, respect!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-649189488845320732?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Climb Article (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/climb-article.html)
12 April 2011, 4:30 pm
Raymondo has a nice north Wales limestone article in Climb.There is a pic of me on my Diamond project and caption says 8c/8c+"one of the showpiece hard sport routes of the u k when finally redpointed". Well its nice to see the Diamond getting hyped up but as anyone who's ever seen me climb will tell you I wouldn't be getting that far up a 8c/+! It's only 8b! I hope nice pics of the Diamond in the mag will inspire more people to open their horizons a bit and tear themselves away from LPT! Today in work I kept thinking about the route. I haven't really thought about it all winter as I was fairly sure I wouldn't get on it again. I wasn't interested in going through it all again.I went from thinking I was going to do it to falling off the first move in the space 2 and a half weeks. I decided I would only get on it this year if I was absolutely climbing out of my skin. Last year I had planned to train like a madman but in reality my training was not structured and intense enough. I was climbing ok but needed another 4% percent to reach the lower off. Today I couldn't help but think that I would probably do it if I put some real effort in. I m keen to get in good shape again whatever so I guess i ll just go with the flow and see where I am in august.there are lots of ifs and buts.its going to be hard getting to this level working away and if i did get a local job I would only get one day a week to get there which isn't enough. I guess I ll just see what happens.I know what jerry would do....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4730951561683017889?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
He'd take the 911 for a few laps round the track then he'd buy a pub.
-
But only after he'd travelled the world flashing the hardest routes and burnt everyone off!
-
Old Shizzle (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/old-shizzle.html)
12 April 2011, 7:09 pm
Tony gave me a load of old mags as he's moving house. I love old mags and anything to do with climbing history and how things have evolved. There are gems of information that most people would never know like Neil Carson went from climbing 8a to doing Cry Freedom 8b+ in a massive leap! I keep seeing Liquid Ambar written up as a stamina route! This just goes to show that the hard routes back then involved bouldery moves and were short and nasty. These days LA would be regarded as a boulder problem. Under 30 metres is short! And of course these days you may find a Font 8b+ on a 50 metre route! Zippy wrote a good article in OTE 18 about state of the art routes. Cry Freedom was Britains first 8c but Mark Leach did it with a duff sequence which JB Tribout eliminated on the 2nd ascent. Agincourt has five 7a moves in a row! There was an interesting piece in high about a old project above La Plage in Buoux that Ben Moon checked out. It was originally Marc le Menestrel's project but he only managed 70% of the moves. Moony took measurements and impressions of the crux holds with string and foil and when he returned home his sponsor Bendcrete helped him build a replica of the roof section so Moony could train on it. Sounds like this route was a 9 and i don't think theres a 9 at Buoux so i'm guessing its still a project. Would be cool if someone finished off such an old project. Come on Ondra get yourself to Buoux!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5143624832436457507?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I remember that Buoux project replica - it was upstairs in the board room at Bendcrete in Stalybridge when I worked there in the early 90s. No-one could even move on it. I recall it was a big move to a rubbish sloping dish and another big move off that. Seemed crazy at the time.
-
I used to sleep under it, watching Paul Ingham's black and white telly.
-
It was claimed as a 9a/9a+ by a polish guy a few years later to much derision. This ended up being one of those he did it / no he didn't type arguments that you get a lot now on the internet and those in the no camp were put down as jealous because some unknown had come and done something they couldn't.
The guy (cant remember his name) much later admitted that he hadn't done it yet this only got a slight mention in the media at the time.
Eventually the truth gets out.
Amazing route that i am surprised no one has done as it was deemed possible by Ben although very futuristic.
-
It was called Chantier.
-
by the powers of google.
"I well remember the news that Juray Recka clamed to have climbed “Chantier”, Ben Moon’s mega-project in Buoux. Juray Recka had no convincing evidence to prove the ascent and the missing track record eroded his credibility. Thanks to the powerful leadership of Ben Moon, the public never approved this fake."
-
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_1-RZTS9XgYM/SnbZ8LZ9JcE/AAAAAAAAgyA/M3Q54PkqbAk/BuouxFranceClimbing20090801.jpg)
It climbs the wide grey streak through the bulge to the right of this photo. I'm surprised that nobody's (or rather Ondra hasn't) climbed it yet as it's basically the centrepiece of the crag. It would be extremely bouldery by today's standards as you say Doylo but it's not as if these sort of things aren't getting done (by Su Pollard if no one else).
-
It was called Chantier.
Very appropriate. un chantier = building site; en chantier = works in progress ie project. Still deserves its name, evidently.
-
Is Chantier the same as the Bombe Bleu project on the plage?
These old projects still have a weird aura around them that I don't feel for the newer stuff.
Plus, is that model still at Bendcrete?
-
Thats the one. Off the very left edge of the plage.
I suspect that its not been done due to lack of interest rather than it being impossible .
I guess the fact that it was left in its original state, rather than improved as a lot of the routes at Buoux, means that the people who have tried it did think it was possible.
-
The old stuff has more of an aura cos sport climbing was still relatively new then.I bet if it was in the north of Spain it would have been done!
-
Plus, is that model still at Bendcrete?
Nope, not on the boards in the training room. Paul might have the bits somewhere though...
-
Buoux was called le laboratoire for a reason. Anyway, the whole blooming place has got an aura, you can never forget the impact of clambering over those blocks to see Bout du Monde for the first time. Have you looked up at that hu-uge wall behind Les Seguins? That would provide some amazing routes. Pierre will never let it be climbed on though, not even by his son-in-law, it'll have to remain the stuff of dreams.
errh..that was meant to be a reply to the post above but one.
-
Your emotions were getting the better of you there Jon
-
Well yes :wub:
I've fallen to sleep a number of times on the terrace under that wall, and listened to Anthoine talk about the possible lines so you'll have to forgive me. It would be the finest part of the entire crag (if you can climb at that level, obviously).
-
Ahh jumpers for goal posts and all that.
I took my 4 year old son upto bout de monde for a sentimental look at the routes years after stopping climbing and nearly shed a tear (it was a fly i tell you). The thing i remember the most was the smell (and not of shit) if you bottled it and let me smell it now it would take me back there.
I dont have any experiance of the new climbing mecca of Spain but do people have the same attachments and appreciation of history to these places as i had to Buoux in the 80s and 90s and Doylo obviously has for the ormes, or is it just the soleless persuit of numbers it appears.
-
I've fallen to sleep a number of times on the terrace under that wall, and listened to Anthoine talk about the possible lines so you'll have to forgive me.
I used to sleep under it Ben Moon's model of the route in the Bendcrete workshop, watching Paul Ingham's black and white telly.
I think you've lived a nicer life than me.
-
It would be the finest part of the entire crag (if you can climb at that level, obviously).
True.
(http://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/falesie/086/086.jpg)
-
but do people have the same attachments and appreciation of history to these places as i had to Buoux in the 80s and 90s and Doylo obviously has for the ormes, or is it just the soleless persuit of numbers it appears.
I'm a cynic but I'd have to say it appears that way to me, I had trouble asking people the names of routes, all I got in return was the number :shrug: Its not that unsurprsing when you consider many routes have more than one lower-off.
I have to say I was stunned at how quiet Buoux was compared to most of the other Euro crags. It really is a stunning place.
(the above was a great read)
-
I've fallen to sleep .. under that wall
I used to sleep .. in the Bendcrete workshop
I think you've lived a nicer life than me.
:lol: :lol:
Yeah, you're a Dickensian urchin and I'm a troubadour... Nice one Grimer!
-
Sandstone of the South (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/sandstone-of-south.html)
16 April 2011, 8:11 am
I'm currently working down in Kent on a old skool windmill. Tim the boss was keen to get some pics of Southern Sandstone so we went to check it out one afternoon. We walked up to the entrance of High Rocks where we were met by this:
This was followed by lots of laughter from the lads and lots of cursing from Tim as he was paying! Back to the van he said and we headed to Bowles. Luckily it was the hottest day of the year and Bowles was in the sun which was perfect for Limestone. We dicked about a bit doing a bit of soloing and some quite nice boulder problems up to font 6c. Bob Elliot rolling back the years:
It was hot and sweaty but a laugh. We only had one little flat bouldering pad which didn't inspire pascal as he tried to ground up this 6c roof with a potential uncontrolled fall:
The crux involved lunging to some jams at the lip. Must have been tricky as he didn't do it Back to the car our grand leader commanded and we headed back to High Rocks. This time he forked out and in we went. The fun began on a ace 6a arete that would be a highball with decent paddage. Pascal went first, bit hesitant on the top. Pete had let us know how straightforward the top was from the comfort of the ground. Little Bob shot up it only to come unstuck on the top, all of a sudden it looked quite high and the drop off not to appealing! He had to get dragged over the top in the end. Then up steps big daddy bear Peter Hurley, not climbing for 5 months wasn't going to stop this guy and he shoots up it barefoot. He hits the same place as Bob but surprisingly his toes don't work too well on the final smear and he starts to panic. Pete has got a back full of metal after hitting the ground from a long way up in Cheedale a few years and capers like this are not recommended. It seems his legendary stamina of 10 years ago has dried up, funny that! He looks down, the fear in his face is evident as the consequences of a nasty fall flash through all our minds. Bob runs to the top but doesn't hit the ascent path first go. Petes got nothing left and down he comes, collapsing as his 12.5 stone mass hits the ground. He lies there for a while with a worried look on his face but all is ok. Pascal then drops the top of the Honeycomb wall to the left, he's having a shocker. Then we move down the crag and engage in some traditional top roping with waist belays and no harnesses:
A couple of routes are done then its my turn to provide the entertainment. I set off up a 5c hand jamming crack called Coronation Crack. I soon remember that i can't hand jam (memories of climbing The File using the holds on the face flash through my mind). I try to jam but soon realise i can't do it and revert to heel hooks and powerful laybacking. Soon enough i'm off much to the hilarity of everyone. My spirits are soon raised as Pascal drops a damp 6a crack and mauls his hands in the process:
I walk down to look at Chimaera, nice feature, then return just in time to see Pascal dropping the top of the classic Krait Arete,he's flipping boxed and everyone is cracking up. Shocking day!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-146778690512476400?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesmen of the Week-Andy Pollitt, Prestatyn Conquerer (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/ormesmen-of-week-andy-pollitt-prestatyn.html)
17 April 2011, 9:59 am
Andy grew up in Prestatyn and began climbing with his teacher Andy Boorman. Andy takes up the early story:
When he was 14 and just started climbing he used to work for a cake delivery company. Sell-by dates had just been invented - this was great for Andy: all out-of-date cakes came his way! Perhaps that explains his legendary stamina or possibly it's all those hours he spent on the brick-edges of the original Prestatyn Climbing Wall in the late 1970s?
Andy's first two real rock climbs were with myself on a school trip to Craig y Forwyn on 20th June 1978. He seconded Y Chimney H.V. Diff and a pleasant Severe called Softly, Softly. A few weeks later he was taking leader falls on Scalar VS!
In April 1981 Andy P joined a strong team for a trip to Buoux and the Verdon Gorge. There will be a star prize for the blog reader who can identify all the climbers (some well known, some well weak) in the group photo which was taken by Pete Bailey!
Great routes were climbed on that trip, but not without incident: ask Pete Bailey to recount his tale of the Verdon Gorge Luna Bong abseil, where they discovered that the rope Chris Lyon had sold Andy as a 150 feet length turned out to be only 40 metres, or around 130 feet. Pete arrived in space 3 metres out from and 3 metres above the first abseil tree, 250 metres minimum above the deck, to find that only one of the ropes reached (no knots in the ends). Andy was perched in the tree:
"How did you get there?" Pete enquired. "I jumped" said Andy!
Witnesses still have a clear vision of Pete and Andy's shrunken faces sporting manic protruding eyes as they rolled into camp late evening after an ascent of the 320 metre off-width Voie Ula on a very hot day with a very small water-bottle.
These were some of the experiences that formed Andy's early years and gave him the confidence and vision to realise that routes such as Mayfair could go free and that Chain Gang could be climbed as a trad E5 up an unlikely looking wall on a bitter November day in 1982.
Andy Pollitt is a true, talented and very special Ormesman!!
Andy also sent through a pic of Andy P on Midnight Blues in December 1980. I can think of nothing worse than hanging on a belay on the Little Orme in December:
As Andy started to progress through the grades in the 80s he to leave his mark on the Ormes and bagged some classic routes on many of the crags. The history in Andy's own 1987 guide chronicles some of the great ascents and epics. Andy produced two guidebooks, the first one coming out in 1981. This brought many climbers to the area in search of new lines. Andy's legacy of routes is fantastic. Wall of Evening Light was re equipped last year so get on it in August people! Night Glue has become one of the mega classics in the area and Over the Moon is testament to Andy's ability as it is now regarded as the hardest 8a on LPT. Someone once told me that the top crack was originally protected by wires and so the jams felt a bit better as often fingers were sitting on the wires. Don't know if its true or not. One of the greatest Ormesmen ever!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1004346813055831680?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
There was a great article in High one time by Andy Pollitt about the summer he had had. Really amazing - repeats and first ascents on North Stack, routes on LPT, jumping off Pigeon's Cave, first ascents at Raven Tor, Malham. God he did so much it seemed.
Can't remember what the article was called. Can anyone remember it?
-
I remember the article, there were no climbing pictures with it just a potrait of AP looking cool (as always). I can't remeber what it was called, I thought it was named after a route but can't think which one. Sorry that is no help at all but while I'm here I'd just like to say how much I'm enjoying the Ormesman series, nice one Doylo
-
Saw this pic of bombe bleu on the 8a forum, hard 9a apparently! Still a proj
(http://i53.tinypic.com/30k85km.jpg)
-
Another Anastazi velcro hard ascent...
-
Ye i forgot to mention he moved to Australia
-
As George Costanza says, always finish in a high note.
-
Cracking picture that. I've never seen anyone on it.
-
Andy Pollitt in his own words (and very unedited...) (http://www.rockarchivist.co.uk/arcGB-AndyPollitt.php). Requires registration.
Great set of articles Doylo.
-
Praise the Bestmaker (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/praise-bestmaker.html)
19 April 2011, 9:46 pm
I had 3 fingerboard sessions last week in work and felt much better at the weekend. No more arms turning to jelly after 5 minutes. Saturday i went out with Danny C. Danny has hardly climbed for a few years now which pains me as i used to love watching him beasting it. Its not that he's completely lost interest in climbing. Its more the case that he's so flippin laid back he just doesn't get around to it and get organised. Anyway he was 30 minutes late at our old pick up point and wasn't answering his landline or mobile so i drove to Denbigh, crept up to his room and poured a cup of water over his face as he slept. That taught the little shit a lesson. I took him to one of my crags and i got on my last bolted line there. A nice line with flowing moves through a hanging corner system and a very cool headwall. Danny puked into the river as i set off on redpoint. I didn't do it but was close. Danny tried my diagonal groove 7b but failed after spending 5 minutes trying to jam his arm in a crack. Was very entertaining to watch. Sunday i went to the mill despite the beautiful weather, beautiful weather doesn't make you strong! Was expecting the worst after hardly being able to pull on last time i went but was pleasantly surprised to do 3 7as first go. 7a isn't hard but it does require pulling with your fingers and arms. I was happy as i'm 12 stone and haven't been training much. Need to keep going back now, such a good facility. Finished off my project from Saturday, yesterday. Its called Strawberries Man after a 5b chubby fella who once told me he'd toproped Strawberries. I didn't believe him. The grade is 7c, vid here: (usual boring tripod scene)
It was quite hard to concentrate as there were loads of kids screaming and shouting in the river. Kids only seem to be able to speak with the volume on max. I forgave them when one said i was cooler than the climber he'd seen yesterday. Was good to know. Almost finished bolting the last two lines here which is very exciting as i think they'll both go. One is a big roof with a hole in the middle of it leading to a hard lip encounter and the other is the line of the crag. A traverse across a steep break, funky roof exit, hard lip then nice headwall. Can't wait to try them properly. Read an interesting article by Malc in a old mag about dieting. He says crash dieting can be counter productive and that its better to reduce your weekly calories gradually in order to make weight loss sustainable. Shocking the body isn't necessarily a good thing as it is likely to go into defence mode and you could lose equal amounts of muscle as well as fat.
One of the first appearances in a mag for the Ormes:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5883254060495134462?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Its called Strawberries Man after a 5b chubby fella who once told me he'd toproped Strawberries. I didn't believe him.
The fat punter was Sloper, the Strawberries he was talking about was the one at Trackside not Tremadog, he was admitting to top roping a 4m gritstone boulder problem and I claim my £5.
-
Praise the Bestmaker (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/praise-bestmaker.html)
19 April 2011, 9:46 pm
Read an interesting article by Malc in a old mag about dieting. He says crash dieting can be counter productive and that its better to reduce your weekly calories gradually in order to make weight loss sustainable. Shocking the body isn't necessarily a good thing as it is likely to go into defence mode and you could lose equal amounts of muscle as well as fat.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
Surely you knew this? ;)
This is a good read if you are interested in weight loss:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Racing-Weight-Matt-Fitzgerald/dp/1934030511 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Racing-Weight-Matt-Fitzgerald/dp/1934030511)
-
I must admit to being clueless and not having done my research. Cheers for the link.
-
Fair enough, unlike me you probably spend your time climbing rather than reading about it or 'training' :P
-
Its a tricky balance, need to do both!
-
Praise the Beastmaker (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/praise-bestmaker.html)
19 April 2011, 9:46 pm
I had 3 fingerboard sessions last week in work and felt much better at the weekend. No more arms turning to jelly after 5 minutes. Saturday i went out with Danny C. Danny has hardly climbed for a few years now which pains me as i used to love watching him beasting it. Its not that he's completely lost interest in climbing. Its more the case that he's so flippin laid back he just doesn't get around to it and get organised. Anyway he was 30 minutes late at our old pick up point and wasn't answering his landline or mobile so i drove to Denbigh, crept up to his room and poured a cup of water over his face as he slept. That taught the little shit a lesson. I took him to one of my crags and i got on my last bolted line there. A nice line with flowing moves through a hanging corner system and a very cool headwall. Danny puked into the river as i set off on redpoint. I didn't do it but was close. Danny tried my diagonal groove 7b but failed after spending 5 minutes trying to jam his arm in a crack. Was very entertaining to watch. Sunday i went to the mill despite the beautiful weather, beautiful weather doesn't make you strong! Was expecting the worst after hardly being able to pull on last time i went but was pleasantly surprised to do 3 7as first go. 7a isn't hard but it does require pulling with your fingers and arms. I was happy as i'm 12 stone and haven't been training much. Need to keep going back now, such a good facility. Finished off my project from Saturday, yesterday. Its called Strawberries Man after a 5b chubby fella who once told me he'd toproped Strawberries. I didn't believe him. The grade is 7c, vid here: (usual boring tripod scene)
It was quite hard to concentrate as there were loads of kids screaming and shouting in the river. Kids only seem to be able to speak with the volume on max. I forgave them when one said i was cooler than the climber he'd seen yesterday. Was good to know. Almost finished bolting the last two lines here which is very exciting as i think they'll both go. One is a big roof with a hole in the middle of it leading to a hard lip encounter and the other is the line of the crag. A traverse across a steep break, funky roof exit, hard lip then nice headwall. Can't wait to try them properly. Read an interesting article by Malc in a old mag about dieting. He says crash dieting can be counter productive and that its better to reduce your weekly calories gradually in order to make weight loss sustainable. Shocking the body isn't necessarily a good thing as it is likely to go into defence mode and you could lose equal amounts of muscle as well as fat.
One of the first appearances in a mag for the Ormes:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5883254060495134462?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Something for the Yorkshire Hombres (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/something-for-yorkshire-hombres.html)
20 April 2011, 11:56 am
Some footage from 2003 of Pascal trying Zoolook at Malham, looks nails!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4754223076343435817?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesmen of the Week- Gary Gibson, new route fanatic (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/ormesmen-of-week-gary-gibson-new-route.html)
24 April 2011, 10:30 am
During the new route boom on Pen Trwyn during the 1980s it was inevitable that the country's leading new routers would be attracted to the area. Gary Gibson must be the most prolific new router in Britain ever with thousands of new routes to his name and he wasted no time in leaving his mark on the Orme. Although he sometimes courted controversy his contribution to new routing is undeniable. Gary's first new route was The Violater, a now banned E3 up the left side of Mayfair wall. Gary then turned his attention to Black Wall and completed most of the lines there. These routes were properly bolted in the 90s which caused one young man to write in to the mags: "take care lads because the time for agreement is over. As far as i am concerned your licence to bolt has been revoked!" 1984 saw perhaps Gibsons most classic Pen Trwyn addition. Homesapien 7a+ is a great thin technical testpiece. Gary left his mark on many of the sectors on Pee Trwyn establishing three easier classics down LPT which were destined to be popular. Other significant ascents included Plagued by Fools, Capturing the Coelacanth, Barking up the Wrong Tree and Two Ton Cainman.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3219135611809882115?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Time Off (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/time-off.html)
27 April 2011, 11:18 am
Been loving having some time off with the bank holidays. Last week i was cursing the heat though. After spending the winter complaining about the cold and wet i should have been pleased to have some nice weather but i was greasing off so complained instead. Ridiculous for April! Been to the Mill a few times and even managed a 7a+ so things are looking up. Been doing some nice easier routes on the new crags and trying the projects. Making progress but i've finally hit big 8 land with a few of them so more effort is going to be needed. One of them is a big roof with a solitary hole in the middle of it. Every move is a burlfest, must be the burliest 8a-8b in wales. Definitely a cool style but i can't do all the moves yet. I met up with the Sellars clan who were over from Sheffield for Easter. I showed them Llanddulas and some nice routes were bagged. Nic was one of the UKs top sport climbers in the 90s so i picked his brain about fitness training. I tried my roof project and after some experimentation i thought i had cracked the hard start. That was until the hold fell off, doh! Nic did a good onsight of Mudjekeewis. He cocked up the crux first go but hung on in there and did it. I went back to the roof another day and glued the hold back on, hopefully it will stay put. I had a prolific day yesterday bagging 4 new routes! 3 were shorties that i bolted in winter but they were all fairly pleasant with nice rough rock. One was quite a peculiar route. Its 6a+ to the last move which is a english 6b/c move off quite a small crimp. Quite unbalanced but a bit different. Really hard to grade something like this though. 7a or 7a+ probably. I called it Off With Their Heads cos i don't believe in hereditary priviledge. Then i did a route i bolted up on Monday. It was a right effort bolting and cleaning it as its 17 metres and the crag is very loose in its natural state. It turned out to be another cracker. The first bulge is the crux but its still tricky until you reach a really good rest before some more fairly tenuous moves above. Its either 7b+ or 7c and the name is Big Kohoona Burger. I wish i'd bolted it better, its fine for a redpoint but a bit shit for the onsight, oops. Development on this crag is almost complete and i think people will enjoy it as its a good length and nice routes. I asked Norm the other day why he didn't develop LPT earlier back in the day. He said everytime he went there the tide was in so for years he didn't realise it actually went out. Thought that was pretty classic!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7079185947394230616?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ormesmen of the Week Mel Griffiths, He came, he went and then he came back! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/ormesmen-of-week-mel-griffiths-he-came.html)
1 May 2011, 6:54 pm
Mel Griffiths burst onto the Orme scene in 1981 with the first ascent of the iconic route Axle Attack on Mayfair Wall. Axle Attack is an Orme classic which was an incomplete aid route. Pollits guide states that: "it was this route before than any other before it, on Trwyn, that gave a realistic impression of the wealth of new climbing waiting to be done." Mel and fellow first ascentionist Leigh McGinley famously trained for the ascent using the axle of a train. Mel had ten years off climbing and was partaking in activities such as cave diving. When he started climbing again he got back into the Orme scene and started new routing and re-equipping on both Ormes.
Well that draws and end to the Ormesmen of the week series, i've enjoyed delving into the history of the area and the men who shaped our crags. It is a area with a rich history and with mnay routes that are of national importance. I've undoubtedly missed some Ormesmens but i am only young so please forgive me. Finally a big up to these guys: Billy Wayman, Pete Bailey, Ben Moon, Ron Fawcett, Mark Pretty, Mike Owen, Phil Smith, Rob Shepton, Ed Stone and Nick Jowett(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7487621440334830464?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Osama Bin Bin Bag (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/osama-bin-bin-bag.html)
2 May 2011, 4:45 pm
My time off is drawing to an end. Have done loads of climbing, lots of nice easier routes and few projects done and bolted. Thursday i headed to Three Degrees Crag with sausage, Gav and Panton. I tried my proj there, some progress as i got to the crux on top rope but still struggling to get my feet up on the undercut. More burl needed. Sausage got on Pete's 8a+. I was interested to see what he thought of it as it took Pete 3 days and he's no slouch. He did the moves pretty much first go then lowered to the top of the ramp and linked them first go. He still didn't get the redpoint though as the holds (which are very small) heated up a bit. Conditions are quite important on this, seems Pete was wise doing it in winter. Anyway Sausage reckoned 8a+ was right, a similar proposition to Pas de Deux he said and he'll return in cooler temps. Me and Mule went for a random mooch on the Orme on Friday. We abbed into Seal Point for some reason??
I had been down to do Crigyll Outlaws in 2000. The rock is nice down there and the sport routes look good and the bolts aren't fucked yet. The hangers have rusted a bit. Then we went to check out Tony and Colin Goodeys mini crag on West Shore side of the Orme, this is under the road above some concrete slabs. I'm sure its destined to be quite a popular venue as its nice rock and non serious. We soloed a few diddy routes.
I took Jonny boy out to new crags on Saturday. I tried one of my best projects and finally made a breakthrough with the beta. Sould be on redpoint next time. Jon put in a good effort and flashed my groove route. He reckoned it was 7a+ for real men who can jam. I think the grade of this will divide opinion! Today i did a new 6c+ at a non limestone venue which i named Osama Bin Bin Bag, watch this space about this one, some impressive shit. I really feel if i didn't have a few hard projects then i'd be happy to have a break from trying to beast it this year. Just going out and doing routes and quick redpoints has been mega. Its a better life of this i am sure!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4991515991173598299?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Stiffer Upper Lip (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/stiffer-upper-lip.html)
3 May 2011, 6:37 pm
Pete robins has done the extension to Stiff Upper Lip at 8b at pigeons.The original is a cool roof line but it finishes in a rather random place as the first ascentionist George Smith lowered his original lower off as he was struggling to get it done.Above georges chain is a cool boulder problem to the top of the crag. When stiff upper got re equipped last year so whole line was bolted by Pete Harrison as we weren't sure what went on.Jordan has already bagged the 2nd ascent.This makes a trio of mega 8bs on the orme alongside Melancholie and Youthanasia. If you like things a bit shorter and sharper then Carinthian Groove awaits a second ascent still.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6697796249013186553?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Orme Bouldering Heaven (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/orme-bouldering-heaven.html)
9 May 2011, 9:49 am
Mule's new bouldering area on West Shore has finally been revealed (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=507). I haven't been yet but have heard some good reports. There's quite a bit of bouldering dotted around the Orme now. Here's a quick rundown on it:
Parisellas Cave
Say no more
Split Infinity
15 problems 6a+ - 7c+/8a
A classic warming up spot with a hard traverse and some good up problems.
Best problem: Belpig 7c
Breck Road
15 problems 6c+ - 7c
Great independent up lines and some good links and a mega traverse.
Best problem: Swing of Fire 7b
Normans Wisdom
5 problems 7a - 7c
Direct starts to routes and a cool traverse.
Best Problem: Snout 7c
Pill Box Wall
30??? problems
6c+ - 8a+
Pristine crimpy lime and link up heaven.
Best Problem: Ain't No Party/Mr Whippy?
Pigeon's Cave Boulders
35 Problems?
V0 - 7b+
Smooth boulders with more easier grades.
Best Problem: ?
Sea View Walls
6 problems
6b - 7c
Some amazing higballs off a tidal ledge
Best Problem: Flashpoint 7b+
Badger Cave
5 Problems (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=96)
Steep Cave.
v4 - 7a+
Best Problem: Brock Direct
West Shore Boulders:
30/40 Problems
6a - 8a
Cool boulderfield
Best Problem: The Spray 8a?
There's also Clutch, Plumbline Traverse and that easy sunny vertical stuff above the road on West Shore side.
Some interesting musings on hard grades on Paul Robinsons (http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/) blog. He's travelled the world and done most of the hard shit so i'd say he's got a pretty good idea on what goes on. Its interesting reading about his grade calculations. Maybe we should use them to sort out the contentious problems over here. It sounds like East Coker and Silk Cut would both be 8b on the Robinson Scale. East Coker is 8a+ into 7c+/8a ands Silk Cut is 8b into higball 7a+, not big enough link up numbers to warrant 8b+ in his book. We don't need world wads to come and repeat our problems we just need to read their blogs!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3871232423180131630?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Someone at Malham please convince Ondra to pop over to LPT. (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/someone-at-malham-please-convince-ondra.html)
15 May 2011, 12:28 pm
This week was a mixture of training and cragging. I went to check out a very cool project with Neil Dyer, a line up a short but sustained red wall. It was very ansteys-esque and very hard too. Probably 8b+ or 8c, come on Neil pull yer finger out! He probably won't try it for another 3 years or so. I went to the Dulas with Heason and we hung out in the roofs. Ben tried Temple making quick progress. Since i did it everyone has used a easier more efficient foot sequence just before the last crux which seems a bit less draining. Ben also did the first crux some mental foot above yer head in a hole method, pretty different really! Looked cool. I worked on the end sequence of my proj and made good progress. The finish is a bit weird as the right wall comes in at the end and your feet go on a slab. This doesn't feel like it detracts from the route when you're on it but looks funny from the bottom. Its bad cos it means its not quite as cool as Temple but good cos its makes it do-able. The moves are all good anyway, i need to experiment a bit more. Ben had a quick go and even got a double knee bar in. I don't care what grade it is, the easier the better as long as its cool. We will see. I went for a quiet and gloomy mill sesh with Nodder (the electricitys off!). He's training religiously at the moment and not getting distracted with routes like he did last year. Its probably what i should be doing but i don't have the self discipline at the mo. I realised thats its time to stop complaining about being shit as i'm not actually that weak. Hopefully there's much more to come though. Yesterday i went down LPT with Pete Harrison, amazingly my first time down there this year. It felt good being down there, its such a good social crag as everyone has to go down at the same time. I even did a new 6, the short but good Bosch Bastards. Then i tried Life's a Beach, this is a previously neglected 7b that's become quite popular with a couple of new bolts. It is also probably one of the hardest 7b's on the Orme. An initial tricky wall leads to a ledge but the final slabby headwall is the crux and even though you're fresh when you get there it has a very tricky move. I did the move first go but then was losing purchase on the crimp on subsequent goes. Boooo i can't do slabs. It was raining though. I had no plans to try Bad Boy before i went down as i thought i'd get too pumped but was pleasantly surprised to not get that pumped. That route always draws me in, its such a joy. Then we headed up to the Cave's. Pete recommended a 7b+ called The Damage Religion that he'd done recently. It's one of those routes that you walk under on the way to Breck Road but never glance up at. It should get more attention as its well bolted and has a very nice bouldery crux sequence. I got the beta off Pete and set off. I utilised what he'd said but also did what felt natural and ended up climbing it a bit differently and managed to flash it. I wasn't kidding myself as it felt pretty steady, even 7a+. Its probably 7b though for most of average stature. Kind of summed up my climbing these days, shut down on Life's a Beach then flashing that in the same day. I'm really keen for some other routes round these parts especially The Mask and Taipan if anyones keen? It's been a good week which has helped my confidence a bit. You don't really know what the state of play is just climbing on your own routes.
Pete Robins went back down Pigeon's and extended Koo to the top of the crag this time. This takes it from 7b to 7cish. I'm quite keen for this as i've always enjoyed Koo. It needs a lower off putting in for it to become popular.
photo by Calum Muskett:
Ondra's back at Malham, still dreaming that he'll come over to these parts. He needs to crush the Orme and do the old aid route at Dulas 9a+.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6066994847547302383?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Line of the Cave Goes Down (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/line-of-cave-goes-down.html)
16 May 2011, 9:47 am
Pete Robins linked Lou Ferrino into Bonnie last night in Parisella's Cave. This has long been admired/touted as the visual line of the Cave but it has never really seen much attention until recently as Bonnie is such a tough little cookie on its own (Font 8a+). Pete first climbed Bonnie in the winter 09/10 after a bit of a seige and at that point the link seemed some way off. After Ben Bransby climbed Bonnie Extension and Neil Dyer did Bonnie in quick time the spotlight was back on the big link. Neil was looking like the main contender making quick progress and looking very strong. This was all the encouragement Pete needed and he got stuck in and soon found himself falling near the end. Last night he completed it thinking it to be of similar difficulty to the other two mega link ups he's done in there, Silk Cut and The Incredible Bulk. That would make it around Font 8b or French 8c+. The breakdown of the numbers would suggest that this new line is perhaps the hardest of the three. Bonnie is a power problem with hard moves which makes for a very spicy link. The line follows the two ramp features of the Cave. All we need now is for someone to finish this link up the extension for a mega boulder/route hybrid for a 9a combination.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7655413062842765218?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New Mega Sport Line Above A55 (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/new-mega-sport-line-above-a55.html)
17 May 2011, 10:49 pm
A few weeks ago i went up to the old quarries between Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan with Gav Foster. I had heard of Gav's project up there that was supposed to be very good so i was keen to check it out. Gav bolted it a while ago, he spied the line after walking up there in hope of finding some bouldering potential. Working away and his house building project meant that getting consistent days on it was proving tricky. After slogging up there i was hoping it was going to be good as people had suggested. I was not disappointed! The line is quite striking and i was immediately impressed. The route takes a curving overhanging prow before finishing up a immaculate headwall. We got to work and after an initial scare pulling some loose blocks off the start (probably a result of winter freeze thaw, luckily the holds underneath were perfect) Gav soon got the moves again. He was kind enough to let me have a dog up it. The start is steep and keeping tension was tricky as a result of the low friction and slopey holds. After 8 or so metres of amazing slopey compression the line eases and leaves the arete for the headwall which leads to the chain. Gav had some redpoints and was falling just shy of the easier top section. I knew he just needed to get back ASAP and he could do it. Today he went back with Mr P and finished his project. It really is a stunner and anyone who climbs around the grade 7c/+ in Wales (visitor or local) really need to get up there and get on it. I really think it is one of the best sport routes in Wales. It has the quality moves and rock that you find on the best routes but what sets is apart in my eyes is the unique line that is really quite rare. Its not just another bit of overhanging limestone (in fact its not even limestone). I can't wait to get on it again. The name is Release the Hounds (a reference to the people chomping at the bit to get on it). I thought 7c after my brief dog up it, Gav's not sure but thinks maybe even 7c+ so 7c/+ will do til the repeats start rolling in. In the bay to the left is a new 6c+ that i put up which will be a good warm up for the meat. In terms of access details i'm sure Mr P will have them online soon enough and as he's much better at such things than me i'll leave it to him
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6101664239980735644?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Release the Hounds (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/release-hounds.html)
19 May 2011, 12:22 am
Me, Jonny Boy and Alex went up to Craig Seiriol today to give Gav's route a proper go. I had worked out that Jon was going up from a coded Facebook status and luckily for me he didn't mind me inviting myself along. It was cold and windy up there and we all took a while to warm up. Alex warmed up on Osama Bin Bin Bag and then had a respectable flash burn and me and Jon were soon on redpoint. I managed the 2nd ascent, then Jon bagged it and finally Alex completed the clean sweep. A great route that is destined to be a classic. All it needs now is the strong boys to go up there and give it its first onsight. We all agreed the grade is solid 7c. Some footage:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3805407108289870006?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Mcclure Blitzes Mayfair Wall (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/mcclure-blitzes-mayfair-wall.html)
22 May 2011, 6:38 pm
Team Marmot Europe are in Wales this week so expect some good ticks if the rain holds off. Today Inspector Mawsons and Steve Mcclure were on the Orme ticking on Mayfair wall. Neil finished off Masterplan, first redpoint. He struggled with the crux of this when he tried it just after i did it but he's an 8c crusher these days so it went down ok. Steve then pulled off the first flash defying those long reaches. He then onsighted Masterclass (first onsight???) putting the clips in thinking it to be one grade easier than Masterplan. I'm always confused with the grading on this wall as for me (and others i'm sure) Masterclass is harder than Masterplan. This is due to Masterplan being a modern bouldery style and Masterclass being old school and technical. It's good to have confirmation that the grades are fairly accurate from someone not affected by styles at this level. Of course these are not surprising feats by Steve buts its still nice that a good climber came along and did them first go. Shame he didn't do Oyster for the full sweep.
I did a lot of climbing this week, six days on in fact! I did some training and ticked some nice routes. I went to Pantymwyn earlier in the week to have a bash on Grand Canyon. I've been going to the gorge for years. There is a picture of me asleep under the bouldering when i was 7 or so, i shunted the slabs back in the 90s and of course i've been there bouldering loads of times but to my shame never climbed on the steep side. In my ticking frame of mind i was keen to do the classic 7b+ Grand Canyon so met Lee down there. There's not really a decent warm up route there so i thought i'd give Canyon a bash to see how high i got, a stategic error! Its not your average North Wales 7b+, its steep and pumpy and i was soon boxed and off. Unfortunately the pump was terminal so i couldn't really do much more and left without doing it. I returned later in the week to finish it. Its really good- involving pumpy big moves! Only the Diamond and the Gwynt really compares for pump factor. Yesterday i went back up to Craig Seiriol with Lee Proctor and Paul. Rob Pitt and Lee Roberts were working Hounds. I did a new route that i'd drilled last time but not bolted left of Osama. Its called Gadaffi the Diplomat and is about 6c+. Its nothing special but is worth doing. Lee climbed Osama with a different sequence which he reckoned was more like 6c. Jonny Boy had been up to do the groove left of Hounds. This is another stellar line which suprisingly went at 6c/+. It is another classic, great positive holds the whole way up, ace!
Lee on the hunt:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-752446022529414041?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Cave, Bock and Pigeon's (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/cave-bock-and-pigeons.html)
29 May 2011, 10:19 am
The bumpy boys have continued to beaver away in the Cave. Dyer ticked Bonnie Extension, vid of a attempt below:
Dyer has never owned a decent pair of boots in his life, he's currently climbing in some knackered old 5.10s. Doesn't seem to stop him though!
Pete found a new bit of climbing, working out the moves from the top jug of Trigger Cut into the Bonnie jug. He reckoned this was about font 7a+ on its own. Then he linked it from Parisellas Original and continued up Bonnie Extension for a pump fest 8b (or so) route:
Pete found himself confused as he reckoned Bonnie Extension was 8b+ but this new thing 8b. There's obviously more than one grade difference between them (give BE 8c i say)!
Markus Bock, legend of the Jura and 9a+ route and 8c bloc crusher was down LPT last week. He tried Sea of Tranquility and Liquid Ambar and reckoned they were both pretty tricky. He thought Sea Of was definitely 8c+ and said Liquid Ambar probably was too and is harder than any 8c he's ever done. Markus has done many 8c/+s and the Frankenjura is not exactly known as being soft so i think his opinion is very worthwhile. He may come back in a few months to give them another go. I'm just chuffed to have done all the moves on a relatively short probable 8c+!
Me and Dyer went down Pigeons yesterday. I was keen for the new Koo extension. Despite it being shortlived i've always liked Koo so was quite excited about trying an improved harder version. Dyer put the clips in and i had a bolt to bolt, the extension part felt quite tricky. It felt like it could be an epic but was actually ok on redpoint. Definitely a big improvement, original Koo doesn't feel like a route now and the new version must be one of the coolest 7c's on the Orme. Dyer did it too then floated up Stark and Follow the Prof again. Follow the Prof was only rebolted last week and Pete and Neil were the first men up. It looked really good watching Neil on it. The last dynamic move to the top is the redpoint crux. There aren't many decent 7c+'s on the Orme so this should prove popular. I can't wait to try it next time.
Pigeon's is looking ace now. The extensions have really took it up a notch. Koo Koo is a great route. Dyer has improved the unsatisfactory finish of Stark by taking it up to Koo Koo finish and Stiff Upper Lip extension looks like the best 8b in Wales. The last boulder problem looks amazing with the chalk on, shame i'm not going well enough to get on it :-(.
We started rebolting the two old routes on the left. I'll finish these off sometime
when i get my hands on some bolts:
Dyer seeking holds in the roof:
And finally, farewell to my old climbing sack that i've had since day one, i'll miss you buddy!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7124703741015033875?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
LPT (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/lpt.html)
30 May 2011, 9:52 pm
LPT was mint tonight, it is chilly at the moment though. Should be climbing in a T-Shirt this time of year, too cold for me. Caff having a bash of Wild Understatement
Emma Twyford made a flying visit the other day and pulled off a very impressive flash of Statement. I can't think of many people managing this first go in the last 10 years and that includes some very strong climbers. It is a sustained and complex route and is possible to blow it in a number of places. Definitely an impressive flash. Most locals regard it as the 2nd hardest 8a down there. Interestingly she still fell victim to the last move of Bad Boy on her first go, maybe this needs upgrading to 8a+ now!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2313864917605948791?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Conflict Continues (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/conflict-continues.html)
4 June 2011, 8:05 am
Well the need to train/wanting to go outside every day and have a nice time conflict continues. I think i'm finally waking up and smelling the coffee though. It took another new project to bring it home. The situation is that i have 5 projects, all of them i cannot climb in my current state. 3 of them are probably 8a+. I would love to do them all this year but if i carry on like i am this is very doubtful. I can keep going out and hanging on the bolts and hoping for a miracle or i can get on the board and get big gains very quickly. Two of my routes are quite bouldery so i need to be pretty strong. Its hard when its nice outside, after hibernating all winter i really want to be outside enjoying the weather but it's not going to get me where i want to be. Training hard doesn't mean climbing outside is off bounds. I can still go and get some ticks but the main focus needs to be strength improvements. My new project came out of the blue. Down Pigeon's is a old project that is always wet. Nodder tried it a bit last year. Me and Dyer noticed a crimp in the wall which looked like it would allow access to a nice visual line up and left. We put a bolt in off a ladder and i tried the move. It was really cool so i came back the next day from the top and finished bolting the line. Next day i tried it with Pete H. It's really good, there were 3 or 4 moves i couldn't do but i could see how they worked. I did the top finishing moves which were ace. So out of the blue i have a very sexy new project on the Orme to get my juices flowing.
We finished re-equipping Fellatio Nelson and Cat Amongst the Pidgeons but i was left wondering if we should have bothered.
The shared finishing moves involve a shoulder popping jump to a rusty old chain. Fellatio has some big holds that are slimey and filthy and Cat doesn't look that good either. Dyer rebolted the short but sweet looking African Headcharge 7a+. Lovely tufas, shame it doesn't go on for 30 metres:
I went to Dulas with Mule yesterday. Some prick has stolen the two draws i left on temple and my project to aid stripping them. It dismays me that there's climbers out there who are happy enough to nick gear. I hope they snap and they break their legs. I worked out some good beta on the proj, the first 2/3 are great and i've got it worked out. Like Temple the important thing with this route is to get the end dialled so it feels piss. Mule flashed Sticky Fingers and had a go on Temple but it didn't really fit him and he found it hard. I went to the Mill after to kick things off again. There is some nice wood in there now, tasty!
Finally in what must be the greatest week ever for women's performances on the Orme Shauna Coxsey completed Pilgrim 8a+ in the Cave. This is a brilliant effort and all the more impressive considering she hadn't climb 8a before. So this makes Shauna the first women to do 8a on British soil and maybe the first to climb 8a+ full stop. Claire Murphy did some hard problems in Hueco but Chablanke is not 8a+ and Sarah gets V11/12 which suggests 8a (some Hueco V12's would be worth 8a in Europe). Pilgrim is undoubtedly 8a+, the first section is hard 7c+ then it finshes up Rockatrocity which is probably hard 7c. Mega!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2309173898757327739?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
West Shore (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/west-shore.html)
5 June 2011, 9:03 pm
Went down to check out Mules bouldering down on the beach at West Shore on Saturday. The strategy wasn't good. The marine drive was shut for a car rally so we parked on the summit of the Orme and walked down from there. Dyer didn't get very far as his poor dog Smudge had a fit so he had to turn back. It was boiling and the tide was in so we just took it easy. We ended up lazing around and couldn't get to a lot of the boulders because of the sea but we still saw some cool stuff. Into the Sun is a ace 7a with nice moves out of a cave:
I felt the holds on Mules 8a The Spray. Its an impressive problem and it looks ridiculously burly. Its such a steep overhang and the feet for the crux are tiny smears. The strong boys need to get down on this. I agree with Mr P that its a better harder version of Manchester Dogs. Some of Mule's grades need to be taken with a pinch of salt. I had to seige a 6c+ at the end.
On the way back up to the road from the opposite end of the boulders to the Red Wall is a sweet high arete thats a nice V2. Mule has christened it Learning to Fly but i expect it has been done before:
The Future:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6330395287567557738?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
does this mean there are topo's available? the spray does look very hard and as for the future that slab is super blank maybe inviute ondra for that one!
-
There's no topo yet. It needs one really as you need a bit of help down there to get you going
-
yeah noticed that on the visit! looks too be some good lines thou!
-
Pilgrim Vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/pilgrim-vid.html)
7 June 2011, 9:41 am
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-284561690502348476?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Climbing Gods or Coincedence? (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/climbing-gods-or-coincedence.html)
9 June 2011, 12:33 pm
Last year i blogged about how i had some personal stresses and suddenly found myself climbing much better on the Diamond. Climbing really gave me a lift just when i needed it. Well its happened again. Its been a really grim time this week. I've kept getting out and hanging with my pals. One evening i went training with Gorgy on his board. I felt pretty bouncy on the warm ups but was shocked with how the session ended up. A few days previous i had been really struggling in there barely able to do 7a. This sesh i knocked out 5 7a's, 5 7a+'s and a 7b that i've only done once 4 years ago. In the context of my current form it was my best board session ever! I've had a few extremely surprising moments in my climbing life but this was right up there with them. To feel strong was so good, i crushed every hold i grabbed, it felt so simple. I went home worried it would be a one off as has happened before. The next day i headed to Dinbren with Mule and Danny. Mule has a hard project there and i've been filming it. I did a 7b+ there a few days ago but thought i should get on something hard after the board session i'd had. Gwennan seemed the perfect candidate, i had one go last year but couldn't really do the move. It was put up by Rob Mirfin who reckoned it was a font 7c boulder problem with a French 7b+ route on top (8a+ route grade). Judging from the guidebook description i think Rob did the move quite statically. Mule did it last year and he just jumped to the jug which was a bit easier and less powerful. I did the move on the dog quickly and worked the top out. I knew i had a chance to get to the jug, it is only one move really. I managed to sketch through the start on my first RP, leaping when it felt like i wasn't going to make it. I pulled tape off my fingers with my teeth and composed myself for the top. It turned out to be the biggest effort i've probably ever put in on redpoint. I was shouting down for beta i'd forgotten and almost off every move. I slapped a small pocket but only latched it with two fingers right on the edge, i was powering out quickly but in the beast mantra "if you don't let go you can't fall off" i somehow managed to get the next hold. Probably 99 times out of a hundred i would have fallen there but i somehow found some inner reserve. The top is easier and i finished the route and lowered off in shock. Last week i could only climb 7c and now i'd done my quickest ascent of an 8 ever. Its bizarre really. The route is hard 8a with the dyno method, not hard enough for 8a+. I warmed down on the brilliant Dyperspace, a 7c that i should have flashed last year. So once again i shall be sacrificing a new born goat to appease the climbing gods. They always seem to sort me out when the chips are down!
Footage:
My Pals:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8815491485126454562?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New Hold in Cave (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/new-hold-in-cave.html)
12 June 2011, 7:45 pm
The big news this end is that there is a new hold in the Cave, this cheeky little blighter has appeared under the Rockatrocity jug. It is a positive handhold when moving up off the wobbly block. Better than the shit intermediates that people used to use so that moves easier. The wobbly block is apparently harder to use since i glued it back on so maybe that will address the balance. The hold is also a pretty handy foothold for Cave Life and also for Pilgrim the swing across way. Time will tell how much it affect's their difficulty:
I just checked my diary and saw i have done some form of climbing every day for the last 10 days. It's no wonder i'm boxed! My form has stayed pretty good, i made progress on my project down Pigeon's doing all the moves but one and in Llanddulas i finally worked out some decent beta on the end and manged to link all the finish. It will be hard work from the start though. I had a good time ticking some of Tony and Norm's new routes. The new guides will tell all!
Pic of Sam Whittaker on Walking Mussel 8b+:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6589125349399772613?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Madness Reigns (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/madness-reigns.html)
14 June 2011, 1:49 pm
I finished one of my projects yesterday. I bolted the line in April and have been on it a few times trying to suss the sequence (mainly struggling!). It takes a traverse line on good holds under a roof then tackles the roof at its smallest point via some very tenuous moves, a few terrible holds and then a nice headwall finish. It took a while to figure out but it only needed a few redpoints. It felt hard but is probably 7c+ as the hard bit quite short lived really. It's called The Madness Reigns after the chaos a few months back when all the kids were in the river. Definitely the route of the crag and of course like i always say, it's one of the best new routes i've done! If you don't big your own routes up no one else will. This crag is nearing completion. I have one more project which is also fantastic but harder and bouldery. Norm also has a project to finish there. Despite having a rest day the day before i still felt knackered yesterday so am resting today. Going to head down LPT to film the bumpy boys though. I'm making a film about the new routes and projects, i want to make it as good as i possibly can with my limited abilities. I've already got some good footage but need some hard FAs on camera.
The Madness Reigns:
.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8233733528646931914?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
That new line looks wicked. When will the details of the crag be released?
-
That new line looks wicked. When will the details of the crag be released?
Just wanna get one more in the bag ;)
-
Looks like you've been on the juice in them photos
Beast :strongbench:
-
Dreambadger (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/dreambadger.html)
16 June 2011, 10:51 pm
I cracked another new route yesterday. I bolted this one back in winter, it was out of my league to start with and it got gradually better as i improved. I was looking forward to the day it would go down as i had a soft spot for this route. It is a boulder problem route but the holds are lovely, the kind of holds i'd have on my board. It is a very cool sequence. The crux involves squeezing a undercut pinch above your head and fighting your feet up on smears. I had always struggled with this move. Yesterday i turned up hoping that a bit of extra strength would make the move feel easy but that wasn't the case. Halfway through the session it still wasn't looking good. I managed the move once or twice but the redpoints weren't going well. I kept perservering though and by the skin of my teeth finally made it to the top. A bit of a theme has been developing with the last three routes i've done. All three have been colossal efforts and i should have fallen on the successful redpoint of all three. I have managed to summon up something extra when the chips were down and this is a habit i hope to keep up. The best climbers always fight don't give up until they're in the air. I let Pete Robins have a go months ago before i'd even tried it and he said 7c+ so i'll go with that. Felt flippin hard though!
Pic:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4198289579213339218?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
A Stiff Up Her Mawsons (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/stiff-up-her-mawsons.html)
20 June 2011, 7:47 pm
Neil Inspector Mawson joined me this weekend, this year he has mainly been climbing trad routes and homming around. He was whinging that he hasn't done anything hard yet. I guess 8b+ and 8a+ on gear is a bit shit in this day and age. We headed down Pigeon's. I was keen to try a few existing routes so left the project this time. Last year i tried Stiff Upper Lip and it felt pretty hard, certainly solid 8a. I had been told recently about a backhand pocket on the crux which means you don't have to do it the burly undercut way. Also everyone seemed to be doing the move to the last hold with their left so i was keen to try these different methods. Sure enough it was easier with the new beta. The crux is now the move after the backhand pocket, a slap to a decent pocket. The last move going up with your lefthand is pretty easy. First go i dropped the crux but i managed it next redpoint. Neil blew the flash on the crux but got it next go. We had a do on the new extension. Straight after Stiff Upper Lip original is a amazing font 7a boulder problem on sloping pinches that lead to some crimps and the top of the crag. Neil had a redpoint but fell on the boulder. We both thought Stiff Upper Lip was more like 7c+ than 8a but the extension still 8b. Amazing fun climbing anyway.
On redpoint:
Pain to strip!
Will definitely lay down a seige on this one day when i've got less on my plate. I fell off Follow the Prof 7c+ somehow with my fingers on the top of the crag. A true climber i ended up dissapointed that i hadn't done this route rather than enjoying the tick that i did get. Neil tried Stark but was out of beans. You can climb down there at high tide at the moment so its a useful place. If anyone goes down for Follow the Prof take some bogroll to dry the hold by the 2nd bolt before your redpoint. Next day we went and did some routes on Mayfair wall. I re-aquainted myself with Julio, Axle Attack, Mayfair and The Bloods. Only the 2nd time i'd done Mayfair, the first being ten years ago! Its easy to forget what a great wall this is, the routes are fantastic. I felt good on the rock, i definitely feel the benefit of having done a lot of routes this year. For quite a few years now i have mainly just hung on bolts and this has actually made me quite shit at climbing. I even found myself getting intimidated on the easier numbers. Not scared of falling just worried about climbing shit on them. I can see now that this is a bad strategy and there is a lot to be said for mileage and succeeding on routes regularly. Starting at the bottom and getting to the top without falling, its a great feeling! Hopefully this will stand me in good stead now the strength and fitness is returning. I'm as psyched as a ex nun in a cucumber field now. After thinking this was going to be a nothing year there is finally light at the end of the tunnel and the only way is up. Must train harder too!
Some footage of Ioan Doyle on one of the best LPT 8a's, Battle of the Little Big orme. Don't copy the top beta however as he's doing it the hard way!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9144590801446309863?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Riding a Bike (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/riding-bike.html)
25 June 2011, 5:28 pm
Another climbing stint has passed without me realising how many days on i've had. I only feel like resting when i'm feeling tired but my skins getting pretty thin now. My form has continued to improve. The little jumps in strength coupled with shedding a few pounds have made me much happier. I made some good progress on my hole project making it to the lip with about 4 more moves to go. I've got every move worked out and its pretty short so hopefully i'll do it soon. I went back the next day though and really struggled with the move into the hole. Its a weird one for me, some subtle body position that i can't quite pin down. The sequence is about font 7c and pretty crazy! I returned to Parisellas Cave after not climbing in there regularly for about a year. I was quite good in there considering the lay off. I've spent so many days hanging on all those holds and trying the moves i think i'll always know how to do the problems (if i've got the strength that is). RA went first go and felt easy, fell off the end of LF and Broken Heart both 1st go. I played on Pilgrim a bit struggling with my old heel sequence. The foot swing method is now much easier with the new right foothold but the swing is still pretty draining. I should probably get the heel way sorted again. Anyway its a low priority when it's route season. It felt nice being in there though. I felt really good on TC but didn't have my jeans on so dropped out the kneebars. I was keen to get back on my Dulas proj to see if that felt any easier. I still felt like i didn't have the moves drilled in so spent some time making sure i knew what i was doing before having a few shots from the ground. It went quite well, i got to just before the end sequence but fell. After a short rest i went to the end. The moves are excellent, just as good as Temple though its not quite as pure as on the proj the sidewall comes in so if you were hellbent on it you could escape the finish. I guess that makes it a slight eliminate but the holds and the line are obvious and the moves are damn fine. I need to take a bouldering pad up there to pad out a ledge that i don't want to break my legs on if i run the top out. Potato bulge did Mudjekeewis. Today i went downstairs with Jimmy big guns. It pissed it down in the night and we were not impressed with the conditions to start with as there was actually water on some of the holds. I was keen for Parasite. I got shutdown on this last year but i've realised that if i don't go and re-try routes i get shutdown on then i won't have much to try! First dog i was flummoxed on the last hard move, a rockover just over the lip. I was getting frustrated as it wasn't strength that was failing me, i just wasn't doing it right. Obeying another golden rule (don't give up after one go up!) i linked the crux sequence first go on the next go up. I went for a redpoint and fell off the last hard move, quite close. The next redpoint didn't go as well. The plan now is to try and do the two projects i've made headway on. To keep training (cave/board/start deadhanging), keep doing easier routes and harder redpoints and in mid July start PE training. The upturn in form means that i might be re-visiting a teeny weeny crag on the Little Orme. Oh god!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6028735354888628604?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Doomsday! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/06/doomsday.html)
29 June 2011, 6:28 pm
Went out with Danny C today. We headed to the Gop first. Like i've said before Danny has done very little climbing in two years so i was expecting him to get a wooping as the Gop takes no prisoners. Confirming he has a ridiculous base level he crushed his old problem Smoke a Bloke in a few go's. This is only 7b+ but is one brutal move and pretty tricky:
He also looked like Push the Button wouldn't take him too long. He needs to pull his finger out. We then went down to Meliden quarry, this is the first place i ever bouldered. There is a nice little limestone bouldering wall with half a dozen low grade problems. I haven't been back there since the late 90s so it was cool to see it again. Once me and Mule spent half a day trying to shift a burnt out car that someone had dumped under the bouldering. We moved it bit by bit! Such psyche for a small wall. The problems go up to V3 but are a good height and the rock is good. There's also a couple of French 6's there. Worth a look for locals:
I did something to my hamstring jumping off and was pretty concerned it would affect me at Llanddulas heelhooking on my project. We headed there and i had my warm up dog. On the last twisty moves on the end i felt somthing go in my lower side. I was pissed off but it didn't feel too bad so i had a redpoint anyway. Jeez it was very painful but i felt the best yet on the route getting to the end with more in the tank. I went for the penultimate move but it was too painful and i dropped off. I knew it was bad, i could barely get to the chain and stripping it was agony. Now it hurts to bend over and stretch and i just nearly cried after sneezing. I'm trying not to complain too much because i'm lucky with injuries but it's just annoying as i would have done it and i don't want time off!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8134867433732036982?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Wad and Waddette Beast Cave (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/wad-and-waddette-beast-cave.html)
5 July 2011, 11:05 pm
I popped into the Cave today to say hi to Sam Whittaker. He was there with his lady wife Lu and ned and worm and 8c crusher Chris Webb Parsons with his girlfriend Alex Puccio. Alex is a strong American boulderer who has climbed quite a few 8a+s in the US and Swiss. Good to see some foreign beasts in the Cave. I arrived to see Alex fall off the last hard move on Lou Ferrino on the flash. Considering no man has ever flashed this it would have been quite a feat, she was a little unlucky! It was quite shocking to behold, it was more of an onsight really. I've seen strong men in the Cave before who don't know what they're doing but it doesn't matter because they have so much strength in reserve. This was a similar deal! She got it next go. Chris then did the first probable flash which was a good effort. Alex rested then did the first female flash of Rockatrocity. Watch her do the last move on the footage and if you know the problem you will realise this is one strong femme. Today was certainly the most impressive bouldering display i've seen from a women. Chris had a go on Pilgrim, did RA (took a few go's, must be weird getting burnt off by your girl when you've climbed 8c!) and tried the crux of Louis Armstrong (but to no avail). Louis Armstrong is a trade route these days, its had 5 ascents so must be piss! Some footage:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3680044994518563334?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Pros of Being Injured (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/pros-of-being-injured.html)
12 July 2011, 10:30 am
The pros of being injured are that you get to go exploring and find a 3 star limestone bouldering cave. This is what happened yesterday. Walking up a river i encountered a couple of nice steep buttresses, very South Lakes-esque. Potential for quite a few problems and a nice traverse:
Just round the corner was the main deal however. An amazing cave with tufas and funky looking climbing. In the cave was a long horizontal juggy break that the good lord put there to give all the problems a logical starting place. It really looks like it will be fantastic. The cons are that it is almost certainly a summer crag and will probably need a dry spell before its climbable. It really look as good as any limestone bouldering i've seen in the UK though. Starting bids for the location information starting at £1000 please.
Pic doesn't even do it justice:
I've been hanging out LPT down a lot watching the action, there is some beastly shit going down. I haven't been blogging about any of it as its not really my place to potentially add pressure to folks who are immersed in battle but i look forward to writing about there feats when all is complete. I've been climbing down there about 3 times this year but i've been on the beach a further 8 or so times. Its pretty frustrating, i can only liken it to getting a dance at a lap dancing bar when you've got to sit on your hands or you get pulverised by a meathead bouncer. Here is some footage of Pete doing some training on Over the Moon, 8a:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7906905081021032720?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
What was the injury in the end? Did you tear yourself a new A-hole? Been to a quack? If you didn't would it have been worth it?
-
I'm going tomorrow so will find out. Its got a little better, don't cry when i sneeze now, No room for a new A hole
-
That cave looks pretty sick!! I will give you a £1,000 worth of mine and my mates time into cleaning it up?? :thumbsup:
-
I'm with ziggy I'll help clean and buy you a pack of cakes of your choice!
-
You might think twice about that. i have expensive cake choice!
-
I can get hold of some of that Cake featured in Brass Eye
"...One young kiddie on Cake cried all the water out of his body. Just imagine how his mother felt. It's a fucking disgrace..."
-
*stereotypical italian accent* you name' da' cakes no? my mother, she make'a da best cakes' in the whole of italia, i get her bake for you!
-
Rehab (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/rehab.html)
13 July 2011, 7:04 pm
I finally went to a physio today. Andy Scott (http://www.pathwhttp:0//www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifayphysio.co.uk/) is a physio who also climbs and has a surgery in Bangor. He prodded and poked me and gave me exercises to do and advice. He reckons my affliction is a oblique tear and i could be looking at another 3/4 weeks before it is fully recovered and ready for extreme stuff. This was a bit sobering as by the time i've got strong again after 6 weeks off it will be winter! I can work around it a bit however and keep experimenting and see how it feels. Andy said the next week is part of the crucial timescale where i must really try not to strain it as it will set me back. It feels a lot better now though, it doesn't hurt day to day and sneezing is a lot more bearable. I even managed to hang off the pull up bar at home. I went to Penmaenhead after to do my first bit of climbing for two weeks. I did some routes up to 6a+ and it felt fine which was promising. It's certainly put a spanner in the works but there you go. Obviously i want to do my projects but i also was starting to think that i could climb better than usual this year and that was really motivating. I was getting somewhere before the injury which is why it was so frustrating. The plan now is to do some more easy climbing this week then if i feel i can do some harder vertical stuff. Back to stretching now....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-982817915320354582?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back in the Game (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/back-in-game.html)
24 July 2011, 10:46 pm
Well after 3 and a half weeks i finally feel like i can start to climb properly again. The injury feels fine on the stuff i've been doing but i'm trying to be careful as i know it will be vulnerable for another week or two. I have mainly been doing non steep stuff to ease it back in and have re-aquainted myself with some of the old classics like Face Race and Pink Pinkie. I did my 20th new route of the year, a nice long 6c and today had a cracking day on the Orme. It was early tide down LPT and the sun was out but there was a nice breeze and the conditions were good. Usual good scene down there, i did Night Glue and Bad Boy and chilled and watched the hommes. As the sea came in we scarpered to Pigeon's. It was mint there too and i dispatched Koo Koo and Stiff Upper Lip again, both first go. I'm convinced now that Stiff Upper is 7c+ and not 8a. The extensions still nails though! Yesterday i had my first dose of steep climbing and tried a great 7b+ by Breck Road called The Mask. I had been saving this for a possible flash attempt so i foolishly sent Mule up first. He fell, i fell, he did, i fell. I then got shut down on a bouldery 7a+. This was the most demoralised i'd felt for a while. It's easy to be pessimistic after this but i was pleased with todays performance, two 7c's and a 7c+ all first go is a great day for me even if i've done the routes before. I find it easy to think the worst of my form. This is due to a long history of mediocrity after time off but sometimes i need to be a bit more optimistic. A great day was rounded off with Gav swimming out to sea in his harness to save a lad who didn't need rescuing and a barbecue on the ledge in the sun. 'Oh i do like to be beside the seaside!'. The plan now is to get on Gorgys board pretty soon to test my bouldering power and get back to where i was. My fitness feels ok and i've still got the flow on the rock but i've put weight on by comfort eating and need to steel up again. Can't wait to get back on those loevely projects!
North Wales guidebook mogul Mr P:
vid:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-697626280610425469?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Lou F/Bonnie FA footage (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/lou-fbonnie-fa-footage.html)
25 July 2011, 5:39 pm
Pete Robins and Dave Evans in North Wales (http://vimeo.com/25455647) from Bjarne Sahlen (http://vimeo.com/user5490470) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Me on Koo Koo 7c, pic by Si Panton
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5810003657029593918?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Walking Mussel 3rd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/walking-mussel-3rd-ascent.html)
29 July 2011, 7:48 pm
I have continued to try my luck on some overhangs and the side is holding up well. I had one go at my Dulas roof yesterday. I got to near the end but didn't want to do the final twisty sequence so dropped off. Felt ok to there though, hopefully i can try it properly soon. Mule has been over and we went down LPT today. I got back on Parasite, i had a go of it before i got injured and was close so was interested to see how i'd get on. It went down fine first redpoint, was never in danger of falling really. Ben Bransby did the 3rd ascent of Walking Mussel 8b+, he tried it the other day and did it today on his 3rd redpoint overall. Pretty impressive! Mule had a go and did the moves again, he tried it 2 years ago and should of stuck with it and done it really. Ben Pritch's clips were in Mussel Beach so i had a go and topped out much to my surprise. I'm wondering if i sold my soul to the devil when i was pissed one night. I have done two 8's in a day before but only once. I think the truth lies in the fact that i've actually done quite a lot of climbing this year. I checked my routes book and i actually only did 20 routes last year. I've done 80 already this year and consequently am feeling fit and climbing well. I had a board session the other day and was a fair bit weaker than before i got injured so there is still more to come.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9020657625429176565?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Nice one Chris! I didn't realise Walking Mussel had only had two ascents before now. Just Carson and Pete?
-
Ye but Moony did the first ascent of Seagull's Dilemma and its essentially the same route, just a different start!
-
Big Bang 2nd Ascent!!!!!!!!!!! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/big-bang-2nd-ascent.html)
30 July 2011, 9:43 pm
James Mchaffie made the 2nd ascent of Neil Carson's LPT testpiece Big Bang today. Big Bang was Britain's first 9a and indeed one of the first in the world. Neil Carson did the first ascent in 1996 after lots of effort and specific training. The route has seen little attention over the years and it seemed like the 2nd ascent may never come. Last year Caff did Infanticide, the 8c that shares the same start as Big Bang. He then tried the direct finish and even put in a good link getting quite high. Caff had the 2nd ascent in his sights and on returning to Wales this year he got on it again and got a consistent method of doing the crux upper slab. Now all that was needed was to build up the specific muscle memory and get it absolutely dialled. He decided to lay down a seige and was down LPT at every available opportunity. Today he put it to bed on a pretty warm and muggy day. It is definitely one of the most significant repeats in Britain of recent years and a brilliant effort for a amazing climber. Back to onsighting e7s now Caff!
Unfortunately i missed the ascent but here is some footage of the moves:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-96594566675968553?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
wooooww awsome effort !!
did he make any comment on the grade?
-
amazing!
-
Massive well done,no need for ondra to come now chris.
-
Would still be nice if he did! LA flash!
-
Red Meat (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/red-meat.html)
2 August 2011, 11:36 am
The weather has been turd around here recently. Every day is cloudy and still with no wind and high humidity. Lord only knows how Caff did Big Bang in this weather. While he was beasting 9a i was greasing off Follow The Prof. Tricky little number this one, its becoming a bit of a bogey route. I think its as hard as Stiff Upper Lip personally. Pigeons is a very fickle place and often the rock feels like butter. A fresh day is almost essential for mint conditions. I still can't believe how we neglected it and let it rot for all those years. When all is done the grade spread wil be something like - 7b+.7c,7c+,8b,7c+,7b,7c,8a,8a+,8a+,8b+. Quite a meaty place! We sacked it off and went to belay Pete Harrison on a new route that he had spent 5 days bolting and preparing. Pete has been all over the Orme checking stuff for the forthcoming guide and inevitably has spotted some gaps. He unearthed this (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/06/23/giant-tufa-route-climbed-on-the-ormes/) little beauty a few months ago and then went to work on a big steep wall left of Dave Lyon's big routes at Craig Pen Gogarth. Pete was buzzing about the line and we were keen to check it out. It is indeed a big wall. The route is about 30 metres so pretty big for the Orme. Pete put the clips in on abseil then led his project. He reckoned it was about 7a+, Me and Mule both fell off it and reckoned 7b and 2 stars. It will certainly feel 7b for the onsight, it was almost intimidating setting off on a long route. Its been a while! I think Pete has settled on the name Red Meat, very appropriate. Pics:
I always defend conditions on LPT to people saying that if common sense is applied you will rarely find it terrible down there. I.e. don't go down when its been raining and feels humid and minging. Yesterday i failed to take my own advice and went down with Tommy. I almost decked on the start of Over the Moon and we bailed. Dick. I've been back at Gorgy's and the strength is returning. Should be cranking 7b again soon. All i need now is that beautiful psyche i had pre injury to return!
Caff was back down LPT behaving like a 9a beast the other day. He put to bed Melanchollie first redpoint and warmed down on Statement putting the clips in. Not surprising but good to see a man of form.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1080717019531311677?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Gwynt Cherry Popped (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/gwynt-cherry-popped.html)
4 August 2011, 10:25 pm
The smeggy weather didn't stop Caff doing Big Bang again! Unbelievable, how many people can just repeat their hardest redpoint like this. I reckon he could pip Ondra to 9b+. I've tried to climb down Pigeon's a few times but you might as well not bother unless its a fresh day. One day me and Pete H bailed to the mighty Castell-y-Gwynt. Much to my shame i had never climbed down there. Lee Roberts was hanging on the main crag replacing some of the threads on Psychic Threshold a very meaty E5 6b:
I was keen to give Hidden Sign 7b a bash. This was put up in the 90s by UKB baron Simon Lee. This is a great continental style route, probably 22 metres with a wicked first part on lovely tufa holds. There is no warm up there so i felt flash pumped after this section. Luckily there is a no hands rest before the top crux. I knew it was fairly sequency and tricky as Ally Smith had told me he dropped it there. Its always heartbreaking dropping the top of a long route but luckily i read it right and climbed to the chain. A great route and definitely recommended. Cruella Deville 7b to the right looked good too. I belayed Pete on the Long Goodbye 7b+ which looked cool. Its all good basically!
Pete on Long Goodbye and climber on Psychic Threshold:
Yesterday i did some bouldering on the Orme with Nodder. Nodder has locked himself in the Mill for 4 months and has hardly been outside at all. The hard work seemed to be paying off the other day when he did Dans Finish. Check out his cazy beta on the crux:
We floundered a bit in the Cave but it was good. I didn't feel too bad and managed to get to the shothole twice on Trigger Cut. Not bad for a chuffer. I tempted Nodder to go to Pill Box telling him i would show him the way to do his nemesis Mr Whippy. This went out the window when we got there and i couldn't even do it. I couldn't do anything as it happened. Verdict- ok power but weak fingers, must address. Easily sorted with a bit of deadhanging.
Back down Pigeon's today with Pete again. We were both keen to finish Follow the Prof 7c+. I should have done it the day i did Stiff Upper Lip slipping off the top of the crag. I hadn't had much luck with grease since then. After a few frustrating redpoints i finally found myself shaking out beneath the last move. I sagged but i grabbed and it was done. Pete did it next go too.
It must be the best 7c+ on the Great Orme as there aren't many contenders. The last move is up there with the last move of Bad Boy quality wise, it felt like tough 7c+ to me and harder than Stiff Upper Lip. Ally was trying Stiff Upper Lip extension but didn't manage it. I can't wait to have a proper session on that final boulder problem now. So good! I read an old OTE with Stiff Upper written up in the Welsh report and George stating that he was leaving the final 2 moves for a 'younger man'. I think its nearly time, back to the Dulas!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1614803607661519252?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
LPT White Headwall Project Goes Down!!!! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/lpt-white-headwall-project-goes-down.html)
9 August 2011, 4:36 pm
Back in late May, Neil Dyer and Pete Robins bolted the much eyed but never tried white headwall above the Walking Mussel down LPT. Ben Pritch has stuck a couple of studs in it years ago but no one ever put any serious effort in. Pete had been eyeing it up and checking it out from Over the Moon. After bolting the route the boys could try it properly and it was immediately apparent that it was a special route. The top headwall was immaculate. The holds were perfect and took no cleaning, it was made to be climbed. The moves went fairly quickly with a probable Font 7b+ ish sequence after the shakeout on Walking Mussel. A big move to a flat crimp in the middle of the wall seemed the first stopping point but some more big moves on very tenuous footholds were waiting at the end. Pete and Neil went to work and soon both were on redpoint. Pete had the initial advantage of having done Walking Mussel before but Neil was immediately strong on the boulder problem crux and was more consistent than Pete in getting to the top headwall. I started filming up on a rope hoping to get the first ascent on camera for a film project. Dyer steamed ahead and soon made the initial crux move to the flat hold. It seemed like the end was near. Pete was getting more consistent on Walking Mussel but wasn't close to latching the flat hold. Weeks and weeks passed and it was clear that it was only going to go down after a proper seige. Both climbers coped well with the extra pressure of being in a race for the FA and they tried it together getting down whenever they could. Neil was soon latching the flat crimp almost every go. He was in pole position but there was always something not quite right whether it be conditions or his feet popping on the last moves. He knew that Pete might well top it out if he could get through that move so the pressure was kept on. Dyer was tantalisingly close but Pete was utilising the persistence that has got him up so many hard climbs in recent years. I asked him if he was getting fed up with it and he replied "well i've got nothing else to do!". Me, Neil and Pete went down there today. After the recent shit conditions we were pleased to find it fresh and breezy. Pete had probabaly his best ever go but still failed to grab the hold. I was working the crack on Over The Moon and so clipped into a bolt to give the lads a redpoint. Dyer set off and soon got to the familar shakeout. It was the first time i had been filming on a rope on the route since June. He latched the hold then latched the next big pop out right. This was it, i was praying he wouldn't slip off the top out. He maintained composure and topped it out much to everyones excitement. It really is a amazing route and is a great achievement for Neil to add one of his own thats so good after so long climbing in the area. Its also nice to finally see him do a hard route. He'd never climbed harder than 8b in Britain until this which was quite frankly underachieveing as he's such a monster! As for the grade after the intitial inspection everyone seemed to think it would weigh in at 8c. Months later and with Pete still not even getting through the first crux it seems more like 8c+ and indeed Pete said its harder than Liquid Ambar and Sea of Tranquility for him, its certainly taking more effort. All we need now is for Neil to come up with a good name. Any ideas are welcome. I'm trying to put together a film about the new routes so keep an eye out for the footage.
Stills:
On top:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3879440977327299864?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Dip Week (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/dip-week.html)
15 August 2011, 10:25 am
Last week started off really well, i had a meaty session on my Dulas proj. I fell off the penultimate move again. I got this far the day i hurt myself. I felt really good flowing through the steep moves and wrestling at the end. Tommy was working the sections. He used a non hold on the last move that was a bit worse but was closer so easier to grab. I had a exploratory look and it was very unobvious but superior beta. Nice one mate! Next go i grabbed the hold and dropped the last hard move, it was my 4th redpoint so i was a bit goosed. Next time! After that day i just felt fucked all week. I worked out the crack on Over the Moon and got into it on redpoint but just felt tired. I had that overtraining strained feeling in my arms. Tried to go back to Dulas on Thursday with Dyer but it was gopping so we went to one of my new crags. Neil tried a 7c+ of mine. I was anticipating a flash ascent but it wasn't to be, he found the crux sequence quite hard and didn't even get it first redpoint. It sounds bad but i was quite pleased. I thought it probably was 8a when i did it but didn't want to overgrade anything else and wasn't confident in my abilities. Next time Ding Dong! I tried my hole project and didn't feel any worse on it. I just need to get to the hole consistently and i'll have a chance. Such a physical beast i love it! Saturday morning me, Caff and Jimmy Big Guns went to Malham. It was quite wet but we got stuck in to some dry routes. Jimmy put the clips in Connect 4 so i had a do on that. I worked it out but it felt a bit hard for the weekend. Its not the most inspiring route at Malham either. Caff was trying Rainshadow:
He had tried it once before and tried it both days this weekend. Considering he'd only had 3 days on it he was looking really good. He worked out some important beta on the crux bulge and by the end he was looking very solid on the upper wall. Best moment of the weekend was Caff in the steepness shouting down that there was 5c moves on it! He was serious. The upper section was touted as 8a+ but Caff declared it 7c+ by the end of his tries. I don't think he understands that the more you do something the easier it gets. Ha ha, total legend! He's so psyched at the moment and has really pushed onto the next level. British sport climbing is in good shape. His new nickname is The Feather! Me and Jimmy tried Toadall Recall. Jimmy struggled with the reachy moves. I fell off the crux, my skin was not coping well with Malham and my shoes were too smeary. I had forgotten how hard it is. I tried to tick Chiselling The Dragon at the end but alas my skin could take no more. So the week ended a bit shitly, i felt pretty average. Back to Wales for overhangs and footholds, my finances have meant that i've been stuck there for two years with hardly any holiday and now i just want to stay. I would have chastised someone with this sad attitude years ago! Don't forget folks, Diamond season starts today, make the most of it and take some gloves for the last part of the handline! (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6731626995713575671?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Last Crusade (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/last-crusade.html)
17 August 2011, 9:42 pm
I completed my Llanddulas roof project today. I bolted the line off Tony Shelmerdines ladder back in February. I had eyed the line up last year when i was trying Temple but unlike Temple this line had not been looked at or bolted. I hung on the bolts occasionally trying to find a way through a sea of funky climbing and downwards facing holds. The start and the end were the hard bits but as it cleaned up a jug appeared at the start which made it easier. I slowly got a decent sequence on the end and was soon on redpoint. The route features brilliant climbing. I think it has better moves than Temple of Gloom though it is perhaps not quite as meaty a line as the wall comes in close at the end. It is a power endurance route, about 20 moves with no shaking out or chalking (for me anyway). I got close in June but i tore my oblique warming up on one of the moves and that resulted in a month off. The line remained in my mind and i was desperate to return and complete it. Immediately i was getting to the end again wrestling up that final sequence on slopey sidepulls and heel hooks. Yesterday i did the last tricky move but was totally powered out and fell grabbing a jug undercut. I have to skip the last two bolts as i can't clip them and there is a ledge that comes into the fall zone. I fell and swooped right down skimming my bouldering mat. It was quite exciting and i knew it would be bad news to fall from the next moves. Danger is not something that usually comes into sport climbing! Today i went back with Danny Cattell who had belayed the day i hurt myself. I got past the move i fell off last time but the plan for the last moves soon went out of the window. My feet were in different places than i had planned and i couldn't pull the last moves even though they are on jugs. I couldn't slap or move so i improvised and pushed my knee against a small corner. By some miracle it wedged enough to allow me to keep moving up and i topped out on the ledge. Unlike Temple this one doesn't top out as i didn't fancy back and footing up the cave above. I was really pleased to have my two babies side by side. Two quality but different roof climbs. The grade is 8a+, it is a slightly easier proposition as the start is easier on The Last Crusade. Whereas Temple has a font 7a+ the start to this route is more like 6c+. I managed to get it on film- more footage for the film. I have 3 more new routes in the 8's i'd like to do this year. I'm going to concentrate on them a bit more and stop homming around on routes that i could do anytime and tiring myself. Next up is the hole project for which i need to power up.
Pics from Mike Doyle:
Danny quotes of the day: "there's not been much going on in the routes scene has there, theres been nothing on North Wales bouldering" and "What's Dans Finish". What a guy!
Later on i went down the Diamond. It was so good, no grease, no seepage and everything lit up in golden light. This place is so inspiring when its like that. The potential of the place really dawns on you when you see that massive virgin wall all lit up. Incredible. Some pics:
Boat People and Skip of Fools:
Big black wall:
Jim figuring out Skip of Fools 8a+:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1392960262365082883?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:boxing: :2thumbsup:
-
good job!
-
End of the Dream (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/end-of-dream.html)
21 August 2011, 9:51 pm
Two years ago Pete Harrison installed the handline into the Diamond and i started seriously trying The Brute project. I spent 25 days trying the line over the 2009 and 2010 season getting about 6 moves from the top and always failing on a long redpoint crux. Last winter i gave up hope of climbing it and after a very slow start to the year after a lay off i knew i was miles off the form required to climb it. An upsurge in form gave me some hope and i planned to start training endurance circuits. I was on course to give it another bash but injury curtailed these plans and a month off in the middle of summer was no help. At Malham the other day and as Diamond season was approaching i knew the game was up. Neil Dyer had re-equipped the line with me in 2006 and i knew he was keen to climb it so i passed the baton onto him. It broke my heart a bit as this line had been a big inspiration for me in recent years but the harsh reality was it was a bit much for my fitness levels. Last year i would have done it on my best goes with perhaps 3% extra but it wasn't to be. Neil climbed the Brute today after about 6/7 redpoints spread over 3 days. He romped up it locking every move and never looked in danger of falling. As some small consolation i got the FA on camera. We both think the grade is hard 8b. The old project name remains in tribute to Steve Mayers and co who had the vision all those years ago. I'd like to think i can climb 8b in 25 days but i guess i just came up a bit short fitness wise on this one. The route is amazing, pure power endurance up a bulging overhang. The moves and holds are perfect, it is a very special route. I can't think of a better 8b in Britain. Everyone who climbs around that grade should come give it a bash, you won't be disapointed.
Video stills:
Today we abbed in at high tide off the top of the Orme, it was quite exciting. Neil and Pete H have been all over the upper walls checking them out. Hard proj:
Me arriving:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6559241733727606122?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Crack of Dawn (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/crack-of-dawn.html)
23 August 2011, 9:53 pm
Pete Robins cleaned up an old project line down Pigeon's today. The nice looking but permanently wet line left of The Fanatic now goes at 7c apparently. I think the line was equipped by Kristian Klemmow in the 90s but hasn't seen much attention as it is always flippin wet. Pete found it in a climbable state today and finished it off. I'm surprised at the grade, Pete said it was pretty burly and harder than Koo Koo. I can't see it becoming too popular as its only climbable 4 days a year but its good for crag completeness. The name is Crack of Dawn. And if you're reading Dawn your pants are still under the route.
Nodder cleaning it up last year:
Colin Goodey has been busy this year developing some low grade routes on some new walls at Castle Inn. He's also done another cracker up at Gigfran which he reckons is his last new route, legend!:
link (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/08/23/the-last-waltz-f6a-creigiau-gigfran/)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1086344044626739589?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
More Big Bang Footage (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/more-big-bang-footage.html)
24 August 2011, 4:18 pm
Here is a short film i made for Wil Country about Big Bang. Enjoy!:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8997820203427877078?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Diamond Science (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/diamond-science.html)
28 August 2011, 9:28 am
Pete Harrison has been employing some scientific theory in order to work out Diamond conditions on a given day. The Diamond is extremely fickle and hard to predict, a sunny day can end up a gopfest and a rainy day mint and vice versa. Yesterday it rained all morning, very heavy showers, it seemed like it would be a write off but we went with Pete's theory and it was actually pretty good. Pete reckons that a difference of 8 degrees or more between air temp and dew point means good conditions. The relevant information can be found here (http://www.wunderground.com/weatherstation/WXDailyHistory.asp?ID=ICONWYLL2) I went down yesterday with Jordan and Naomi Buys and Jon and Becky. Jordan had tried The Brute the previous day and was keen for another go. He worked it some more and had a couple of redpoints. I got on Jonnny boy's route from last year The Waiting Game (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2010/10/25/the-waiting-game-f8a-the-diamond/). I was intrigued to try this as i had spent so long watching Jon on it and it looked such fun. I got it worked out after a few go's and was on redpoint. I fell off the last move into the Hysteria jugs on my best go which i was satisfied with. It's definitely a mini classic and one of the sweetest little 8as in Wales. The last sequence is so good. I was doing it a long man's way which involved keeping my hands low and just springing up to the final jug. Jordan got to the last move on the flash. He was totally cruising but opted for my beta which proved a bit long. Anyway we didn't manage it and the 2nd ascent awaits. Its bottom end for 8a, i'd probably rate it as a tad harder than Follow The Prof down Pigeons which is hard 7c+ in my book. I did a lot of training this week and in my last session finally hit the strength levels that i had pre-injury. This was really pleasing and encouraging for my projects. My two biggies now both involve hard moves so strength is the priority. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4796413217888889416?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Megalopa 2nd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/megalopa-2nd-ascent.html)
29 August 2011, 9:09 pm
Pete Robins, king of banging your head against a brick wall finally repeated Megalopa on LPT today. He started trying it in May with Dyer but Neil bagged the FA three weeks ago. Pete ventured on, he'd put too much time in to give up and finally he started to get close falling off the last moves. He went backwards once or twice but finally topped out to his sheer relief. Pete becomes the first man to tick the LPT 8c+ trilogy which is quite an achievement especially as they're all so different. Sea of Tranquility is a boulder problem in the middle of the wall (about font 8a). Liquid Ambar is steep power endurance and Megalopa is longer with a hard middle boulder, a shake out and then leaning falloffable headwall. All mega routes! After 3 years of seiging LPT every summer you should probably txt someone else if you're looking for a partner down there!
I was back down the Diamond yesterday and managed to finish off The Waiting Game, i stuck with my big slap last move and it was touch and go on the link but i managed to hang on in there. I think this was the 2nd ascent, it looks ace now its chalked again. Barrows did a Jordan i.e, should of flashed it and then didn't redpoint it. So this little soft 8a has taken two 8c scalps in as many days! Bet you're psyched Jonny boy. Here is a vid of Barrows blowing the flash, look how long he shakes out i think he thinks he's still in Spain!:
The big moment of the day for me though was i finally got round to doing Rub a Dub Dub. This is the warm up 7a on the left and it encapsulates all that is good about Diamond climbing into a long wall climb. It didn't dissapoint and i thoroughly enjoyed it. Think Pete is giving it 6c+ in the guide. There's no hard moves to be fair. For two seasons i just tried the Brute, warming up on it and redpointing. Now i've done 3 routes at the crag and i'm keen for more. The climbing is so good! Apparently Steve Mayers the old Diamond master went down for a look today, legend. I was trying my hole project inland. I did a good link and got into the hole again feeling stronger. Hopefully it won't be long. Tommy tried my recently upgraded 8a and got the beta sorted out. He confirmed that it is very good indeed. I'm still collecting footage for the film and every day i'm getting new ideas in my head. What started out as a little idea is becoming ever bigger. Nice to have something to work on, i only used to make films about holidays and now i don't go on holiday anymore the camera hasn't been out much. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5414911643791071237?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Hole + Diamond (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/hole-diamond.html)
3 September 2011, 3:23 pm
I've been on my project a few times this week. I've done some good links on the end but the first hard moves remain as hard and as awkward as ever. The route is about 10 serious moves and some easy climbing either side. I am getting better on it but progress can mean learning a bit about the body positions. It remains an inspiring challenge, i've never done a route like this before and i think it is going to take a fairly monster effort to complete. Luckily Tommy is trying The Madness Reigns to the left. It's nice watching someone on it. I feel a lot of enjoyment watching people on my routes. It's certainly more enjoyable than the stressful redpointing i underwent! Seems a bit silly i gave it 7c+ now but i was lacking in confidence after 6 months climbing 7c. My project brutalises the bottom of my fingers as they have to wedge in to allow me to move through the roof. My foot is also bruised as i have to jam it in a hole and hang off it. I'm going to leave it for a week now as i felt a bit jaded today and lacked the necessary growl. I really need to raise my game a little for this one and could do with getting super skinny. This is almost a big a challenge as the only nice thing that happens in work is my lunchtime panini. Think of the bigger picture, topping out on this route will be better than any bastard panini (even a mozzarella and chorizo one).
Back at the Diamond people have been getting stuck in. Pete Robins made the first flash of the Waiting Game and Dyer got the 4th ascent. I went down on Thursday night and raised the belay of the Brute. When we re-equipped it in 2006 we didn't know what went on with the route and so stuck an extra bolt by an existing eco just under the jugs. This turned out to be in the middle of the final sequence and although it was still fine clipping from the finishing jugs above it was a bit unclear and strong people would be able to cheat and clip without doing the final moves. So i stuck two new bolts in. They're not that much higher but it is now obvious where it finishes and hopefully people won't be able to clip it early. I also grinded the old bolts off so its nice and tidy now. Pete Harrison surprised everyone (but not himself) by crushing Never get Out of the Boat 8a. A few sessions ago he was struggling with the high crux but he looked solid on his first proper redpoint. It is quite an impressive second 8a, certainly a step up from Mussel Beach. All the more impressive considering that when i first met him about 2/3 years ago he'd only climbed 7a+! Happy man:
Apparently when George Smith first bolted NGOOTB it had a big hole that made it too easy so he covered it with newspaper and resined over it and blended it in with rock dust. You can't see where the hole was now, he obviously did an excellent job. It's funny to think there's a page 3 girl from 1989 stuck in the rock halfway up the Diamond. She'll be there forever now!
Jim is working Skip of Fools 8a+. I must admit i always thought this looked like the lesser one of the newly bolted trio even belaying Pete on it didn't excite me in 2009. I have to say i think it looks brilliant now. Its great watching Jim going for it on big links. Hopefully he'll get it soon:
I ticked the final one of the North Wales big 3 7c's. There are 3 7c's that stand out from the rest in terms of quality. They are truly great routes that would stand up anywhere. Bad Boy and Boat People are joined by newbie Release the Hounds at the top of the pile. Boat People is a fantastic route, i really enjoyed it this year. It is really meaty for a 7c. It packs in quite a lot and features superb atheletic climbing with a need to really go for it. It's a little more run out than most the routes round here. I'm not normally nervous before setting off on a 7c but i was on this one. I almost dropped the last tricky move, i really thought i was off. Keith also did it that night, it is definitely highly recommended. It's about time someone did Wall of Evening Light too, come on peeps.
Dyer looking for projects:
Shauna staticing her way along The Waiting Game:
Jim on Skip and Ally on NGOOTB:
The little old Orme is currently on the news pages of American magazine websiteRock and Ice (http://rockandice.com/news/1600-a-last-great-uk-problem-went-with-a-big-bang-). Nice to see it getting some international exposure.
Last night i went to film Lee Proctor on his big Mywn project. He is currently locked in battle but is looking good. Come on big fella! He does well to get off the ground considering he's 14 stone (he's 6ft 6). Not many people lift me in the air when they fall off! I was going to rest but got sucked into doing a bit of climbing. I ended up trying Danny's problem Under the Bridge 7b+ in the gorge, a problem that i'd failed on quite a bit. I instantly felt stronger on it this time and got it in half a dozen or so go's using the right hand method. This is the first proper boulder problem i've done for almost a year. I was pleased to tick a bit of a nemesis and to feel strong but my first thought was if that's what 7b+ is my hole proj is at least hard 7c. I have been psyched to do some bouldering recently, i'm not even dreading winter like usual. I haven't bouldered for so long i quite miss it. It is inferior to sport climbing but i really enjoyed just standing on a pad with no harness on and having repeated go's. It's a simplistic easy life and after a 9 month sport climbing campaign i am actually craving it. So i intend to mix it up a bit and i need more strength for my project anyway. My fitness has been on a downward spiral and although i'd love to do some more long stuff like Never Get out of The Boat i'm not sure it's going to happen now. I'm in a happy place with climbing at the moment, i enjoy every day and feel like one day in this life i might do something hard. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7005214888381037139?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Billy The Fish (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/billy-fish.html)
5 September 2011, 7:17 pm
True to my last post about craving bouldering (i'm not just copying Ondra, honest) i went to the pass on Sunday. My strategy was spot on. I waited all day for it to start raining then sat under Jerry's and Diesel Power in the monsoon. I felt quite strong though and did the move on Diesel Power i've never done. It's really hard and nasty but this problem's already appealed to me. I like trying the 90s problems from round here. There usually CJD or Higginson testpieces. I waited til it stopped raining then went to the Mill to finish off. Today me and Tommy were down the Diamond bright and early but were still behind Scotland's greatest Diamond connisieur Dave Redpath who is down for his annual trip. Tommy did Boat People and i went bolt to bolt on Never Get Out of The Boat, i was intrigued to try it as i've been watching people on it for 3 years. I sorted the moves and had a redpoint and fell getting the shake out jug before the last boulder problem. I concur with Jim that it is the best 8a in Wales (he says it's the best he's done in Britain). Its not visually the best 8a, it doesn't look that special compared to something like Statement but the climbing is superb. Pure power endurance and amazing moves - an 8a version of The Brute. I didn't get quite as high 2nd redpoint, my fitness was found wanting but i was satisfied with my first redpoint and it is quite complex so nice to get so high first go. The same nucleus of people are going to The Diamond whereas all the sad gits are still going to LPT, it baffles me really! I don't get it! And when are some strong people coming to try The Brute, come on lets be having you. Pete Harrison has extended the handline so you can now get into the crag 2 hours after high tide. This is extremely handy especially considering the short season. More beers for Pete please! We jumped ship to the Great Orme. I wanted to try an old project on the upper drive. I first tried it in 2003, at the time i thought it was one of the last projects and i was really keen to do a new route in the area. It takes the crozzly bulge between Gold n Delicious and Magical Ring. I tried it last year again with Panton and was convinced it was 8a. Part of the problem was that it was so painful on the crux you let go becuase your fingers were screaming. Today i twatted a few of the spikes off with a krab and suddenly hanging the holds became easier. I played around with the beta for a bit and finally got a way i was happy with. I got through the hard bulge in the rain but the easy ground just after it was now piss wet through. My hands and feet were on water as i tried to get my fingers to feel normal. Stupidly i hadn't done the finish on Magical Ring 7a+. I had done the route years ago but all i could remember was that there was a bony 6b move before the jugs. I hung out below the move getting ever more soaked and watching the top get ever more soaked. I had to act fast and managed to keep it together, luckily the very last moves after the tricy move were on massive holds. It was certainly very memorable and very nice to finish something i first tried so long ago. After Gorgy badgering me to name something Billy The Fish for years i think i will this time. I'll go for 7c+ gradewise but i can't see too many people being psyched for it. It looks cool but is a little gnarly but if i can do it the day after trying Diesel Power it can't be that nasty. Finished a long day off at Matt's. Yeeeeeeeeeeee (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1104304028053088699?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Billy The Fish pic (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/billy-fish-pic.html)
6 September 2011, 9:03 am
From Si Panton:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7978493542298333233?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
not sure i what i am belaying in.. looks uncomfortable! :blink:
must have forgotten my harness again.
-
prob a sling
-
good to know you trust me.
not recommended by the way
-
I'd trust you to belay me with your index finger and thumb you beast
-
doylo puts the 'beast' into 'beastiality'
-
Den Rebirth (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/den-rebirth.html)
10 September 2011, 8:45 am
Back in the mid noughties the Denbigh Den was THE training facility in North Wales. Located in the Cattell's shed it contained some of the hardest problems in North Wales courtesy of Danny and Mule. Danny in particular had the style dialled and used to pull out some sick moves. A new grading system emerged, it wasn't based on logic as the gap between the grades got bigger the higher they got. I.e the jump between 7b and 7b+ was bigger than the jump between 7a and 7a+. It worked though and some hard classics were established. Eventually though the Den ran out of steam. It wasn't perfect. There were plenty of nasty holds and we thought we'd give it a complete makeover. The board was stripped and put back together. Things weren't quite the same and we stopped climbing there. The Mill came along and Dannny hardly climbed for a few years. I was chuffed to hear that Dan had been back in there and had tweaked it. I went along the other night and it was great. It has the potential to be better than before and maybe one day now Den 8a will become a reality. It was great to see Danny cranking again. His base level is unbelievable. He is really good at that dynamic snatchy style. He has even reset his old favourite 7c Goin homo and has repeated it already. I'm keen to get there while i'm working in Runcorn. One of my favourite vids, the Den vid:
Another evening i went to try Danny's problem
36 Chambers (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=376)
at Tremerchion. This is a great great limestone 7c. Obvious stand start to a high jug on the arete. The rock, holds and moves are all first class. It's one of those problems that is hard because you have to ground it up (unless you have a ladder). The finish is easier but quite high. I tried it years ago but didn't get too far. I felt stronger this time and bagged it after a fairly intense session and quite a few go's falling off the last hard move and having to do it all again. I don't know at what point during the last year and a half of route climbing i got better at bouldering but i'm not complaining!
Pic:
The sit start from the big tufa down and right is even better and unrepeated i think. I'm quite keen for it. The next day my elbow felt knackered. I've felt it for a while but the seige on 36 Chambers made it worse. I've never had a elbow problem and it's quite worrying. I have got a lot stronger over the summer, maybe my tendons are struggling to keep up with my biceps. I'm also aware that i have literally just pulled down for 15 years. Never doing any pushing to balance things out. I know this will catch up with me eventually, maybe its time to do some push ups. I'm unsure what action to take with my elbow. Pete Harrison has had elbow issues and he says its good to keep climbing.
Went down the Diamond yesterday. I've done so many new routes this year but no re- equipping yet so wanted to pull my weight a bit and do some. I drilled the old George Smith route left of Skip, Robinson Cruiser 7c+. It looked pretty meaty and hard to me. The top headwall to the lower off in particular looke fairly blank and there is a big run out. May have to put another bolt in. Anyway it should be glued soon so get on it. The LPT brigade heard my rallying call it seems. It was chocker down there yesterday and big queues for Boat People. Jordan and Shauna (FFA) crushed The Waiting Game. I always knew this would become popular!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7972896594611296777?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Bowldro Gogledd Cymru (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/bowldro-gogledd-cymru.html)
12 September 2011, 9:32 pm
Back in uni North Wales bouldering was my main inspiration. The Northern Soul guides and the subsequent bouldering guide galvanised my psyche. I loved the varied nature of bouldering in the area and the many options for a good day out. As i did most the cool stuff i could do my psyche went off the boil a bit and i went on a bit of a downer with British bouldering as a whole. After a couple of years routing i'm really keen to get back into it and have earmarked a meaty list of problems to play on this winter. Some are definitely goers and some are very optimistic but i'm looking forward to getting out there. Currently the list includes: Flick of The Wrist, Diesel Power, Special K, Cruella, Nazgals Traverse, Love Pie, Wurzel Gunnage Stand, Will, 36 Chambers sit, Be Ruthless, Smackhead, Jerry's Problem, Main Vein, Lizard King, Sick happy, The Tusk, Lotus, Wierdo and Papa Big Lunch. Will be interesting to see how many of these babies i can tick off. The plan for the winter is to train like i never have before. The thing i care about most in climbing is my top end sport grade and i've been frustrated that this has stagnated for 7 years. Living round here to make a step up i need to get stronger. It is the most important thing. So i'm keen to hit the boards for an extended period and start campussing. This is something i've always been shit at. It's always been a major weakness and i really think developing that power will help me step up. I'm going to have to do something different if i want to be doing some good links on Liquid Ambar! The only way i can maintain psyche is by continuing to climb outside and get ticks. I can't just lock myself on the board like Nodder and Gorgy. Anyway hopefully my body and mind will allow me to stick to the plan, be like Jerry.
I have been dieting hard for my Hole proj, today was the first day on it for over a week and i was hoping for a breakthrough. It wasn't to be as the start was as hard and awkward as ever. i did do a bigger link on the end and could feel the weight loss kicking in. The start involves getting a shit three finger drag for your right hand, camming your foot in a hole and reaching left via some really wide moves into the hole. Its strength, technique and body position rolled into 3 go again moves. I'm starting to run out of ideas on it. I know i can do it because i got to the lip pre injury. I think some specific training is in order, i'm going to do some 3 finger deadhanging on my bit of wood. Grrr! I tried Pete's route First Round, First Second. I bolted the line but didn't feel like i would ever do it. It was good to try it with the beta. It basically boils down to 2 hand moves and 2 foot moves. The hand moves i could do ok by keeping my feet low but moving my feet was the desperate bit. With 2% more finger power i think i could do it. Its an inspiring style, short, just off vertical and bony. It's probably a tricky Font 7c sequence i'd say. Pete did the 2nd ascent of my 8a The Madness Reigns and also did the 7c's Meatsville Arizona and Strawberries Man. Today was a mint climbing day in North Wales. Jordan chose a great day to make a solo trip from Lancashire and came away with the 2nd ascent of The Brute. "Made it look like 7a+" was Pete Harrison's comment. Ahh to be fit. Finally a big well done to Jimmy Big Guns who finally came out the other side on his seige of Melanchollie. I think he first tried it in 2009 so it's been a while in coming. Great effort and a great first 8b!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5945229459938353960?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Praise the Hurricane (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/praise-hurricane.html)
13 September 2011, 5:04 pm
Phew i'm at risk of spreading myself too thin at the mo. I want to climb everything, stamina down the Diamond, hard new route projects, blocs in the hills, PE in the cave. Need to take a deep breath and concentrate on the new routes. Me and Jimmy went to climb down Pigeon's today. The remnants of the Atlantic hurricane has made everything so mint round here. It was a one in 500 day down Pigeon's. Definitely the most mint conditions i've ever seen down there. Unfortunately it was approaching high tide, the sea was proper choppy and it was a high tide so we had to bail. Jim had a quick go on Stiff extension and i warmed up on Koo. Tony was on the Orme re equipping Paradise 6c amongst other things. There's been lots of action on the Upper Drive as Tony and co are trying to get the place sorted for the guide. I headed back to the Cave to meet Nodder, we warmed up in Split. I managed Belpig 7c for the first time, another nemisis despatched. I never thought i'd ever do that one. I kicked my cave season off and felt good despite feeling worked. I re-worked Pilgrim with the heel (superior beta) method and managed to get into RA. I also did the first move of Broken Heart from the start of The Wire which i was chuffed with also. I don't know which one to try first now! When i was hanging on The Diamond the other day i got thinking about some of the sport routes round here that i've been on and where i'd rank them in their respective grade in percentage terms. With 1% being low in the grade and 99% being top. Here we go (my opinions obviously!):
7c
Boat People 80%
Bad Boy 90% (for tallies)
Magic Flute 50%
Body Torque Direct 30%
Tomorrow People 20%
Release The Hounds 80%
Koo Koo 70%
Upside Doom 90%
7c+
Follow The Prof 90%
Stiff Upper Lip 90%
Wirral Whip 30%
Billy The Fish 90%
8a
Stark 10%
Statement 70%
Over The Moon 80%
Over The Moon Direct 20%
Battle of The Little Big Orme 70%
Mussel Beach 5%
Parasite 10%
Rodney God (pre break) 20%
Never Get Out of The Boat 80%
The Waiting Game 25%
Simon Says 35%
Masterclass 70%
Oyster 30%
8a+
Masterplan 5%
Rock Lobster 10%
Wild Understatement 30%
Moonwalk 40%
Pas De Deux 90%
The Last Crusade 50%
Melon Beach 80%
8b
Melanchollie 85%
Stiff Upper Lip 20%
Temple of Gloom 5%
Carinthian Groove 50%
8b+
The Brute 5%
Walking Mussel 5%(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4350806260293626447?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
We (actually The States) need more non-lethal hurricanes, one every other week would do - the Diamond was 100% mint today.
I.M.O.
7b
Red Meat 20%
Bloodsports 50%
Mean Mother 50%
Life's a Beach 90%
Libertango 80%
Hysteria 5%
Hidden Sign 40%
Cruella Deville 30%
7b+
Grand Canyon 10%
Mudjekeewis 90%
Taipan 90%
Plagued by Fools 90%
Body Torque 50%
Foolish Ghoulish 10%
Wall of the Evening Light 80% (or 5% if you're Spanish)
7c
Tomorrow People 20%
Bad Bad Boy 90% - for people of average stature, dwarfs 7c+
Boat People 80%
Release the Hounds 75%
Body Torque Direct 40%
7c+
Battle of the Parasites 50%
Follow the Prof 90%
8a
Mussel Beach 5%
Never Get Out of the Boat 60%
Psyche 100%
-
I refuse to accept Life's a Beach at 7b, so much harder than allllllll the others
-
You've just spent too much time on steep ground forgetting how to balance on those things on the end of your legs. :smart:
-
You might be onto something there, i'm not the only one to say its much harder than allll the 7bs tho ;)
-
How do you boy's rate La Boheme at 7b? I haven't done it but remember trying it as one of my first sport routes and getting spanked.
-
Steady away up to 2/3 height then a short thin balancey/crimpy sequency up and a hard reach rightwards to the groove thing. Mid to hard 7b - 70% on the Doylo gradeometer TM, although I bet he finds it desperate ;D
-
Rock Lobster - 80%!
-
I haven't tried La Boheme, but yes i'm sure i'd find it desperate with my unsilky slab skills. I used to try Rock Lobster when it was 8a John and struggled to link it. It was hard but i wouldn't regard it as a hard 8a+ with my sequence. Am i right in thinking you used that boney left hand pinch (thats hard if so)? I used two left hand monos in a row, fairly nasty but not that desperate, i used to fall off the next bit. Need to finish it off sometime (its a long way back in the queue).
-
Sexy Little Knee (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/sexy-little-knee.html)
15 September 2011, 8:09 pm
The good weather continues, i was losing the will with the rain but this weeks been very nice thank you very much. I headed to the recently unbanned hanging rock just past Mayfair Wall this morning to catch up with Tony. He was bolting up two very old forgotten routes, Wall of Goutes and Gripper Clipper. The rest of the crag was bolted up recently (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/09/06/new-section-of-craig-pen-trwyn-re-equipped/). The routes look very good actually. I bolted a new line through the main roof. A very nice looking boulder problem route on excellent rock. It will be the most roadside hard route in North Wales and looks pretty despy actually. Hope i can do it!
Pic:
We removed a few loose blocks from above the crag. Its quite scary to prise a big block away with your little finger. This kind of work definitely makes the marine drive safer for everyone that uses it. If us climbers didn't clear loose rock they would eventually come down, probably in a rainstorm and they are potentially lethal. Anyway that's enough blowing climbers trumpets for now.
I tootled on down to the cave pleased with my mornings work. Nodder, Jack The Ratt and Ducko were getting involved. I felt light and bouncy, my performance is definitely elevated at the moment. I've had a few of these moments over the years and the lesson i've learnt is to strike while the irons hot as they don't last forever! The priorities are my new routes and Cave 8a+s. I'm on redpoint on The Wire now and got the undercut twice today falling just shy of the jugs. I'm sure i'll fall off Clever Beaver pumped stupid when i get there. It's a brilliant bit of power endurance climbing and it feels good to climb well on a hard problem. Mills turned up and we headed down Pigeon's. It was nice and dry but still and muggy so not mint. I was well excited to get on my project feeling strong. I hadn't tried it for ages. The moves felt easier straight away and my original beta seemed about right. The route is about 7b+ to some undercuts and it's pretty intense to the top from there. I was still finding two fingery moves pretty hard and deep down i was thinking 8b and pretty hard on the link. The important thing is to keep an open mind and i wedged my knee against the slopey ramp feature. I had the worst kneebarring trousers on but instantly i knew that it would work as my leg was the right size. It dawned on me that the knee might work for the next move too and sure enough it seemed too. I'm pretty sure this will feel solid with my jeans and kneepad and all of a sudden the routes seems do-able. I need to do it before winter as the top does seep. I'm sceptical about Pete's 7c grade for the right hand route. It looks harder and Mills said he belayed Kristian Klemmow on it in the 90s. He was crushing 7c's back then. 3 finger deadhangs now.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4874237291641486855?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New 8a+ on The Diamond (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/new-8a-on-diamond.html)
17 September 2011, 6:05 pm
Neil Dyer climbed the old left hand Skip of Fools project today. Neil was surprised by the quality of Dumpster Divers (i don't know why! Name connection to Skip of Fools, google it!). This was one of the oldest projects in North Wales and if it were at any other crag it would have been done yonks ago. Pete Robins almost flashed the 2nd ascent falling really high on one of the last hard moves. The first proper hard move of the route is a spectacular dyno which is followed by sustained climbing above. The boys seem to think soft 8a+ is appropriate. The two long wall climbs to the left Robinson Cruiser and Non Tidal Screamer are now good to go. Pete did Robinson last week reckoning it to be pretty hard for the guidebook grade of 7c+. This must of been the first ascent for 20 years. Pete reckoned it could be 8a which in my brain register's as definitely 8a :). Expect a hard runout finish. Caff did Non Tidal Screamer, also probably the first ascent for a very long time. Unsurprisingly this also seems to be pretty tricky for its guidebook grade of 7c and don't be surprised if it feels 7c+ by modern standards. Either George didn't realise how well he was climbing in the late Eighties or we've all gone soft (probably both). Boat People is another example, 7c to the top of the crag in the guide but surely 7c+ compared to all the popular 7c's round here. Owen did NGOOTB (effort) and Caff did the 3rd ascent of The Brute (effort). I'm sure it was a casual affair, i love the way Caff keeps his belayer informed of his movements when he's on a hard route - "i'll have a little look in a min Soph" and the classic "bit of loose". Legend! Anyway no project is safe down The Diamond now, i'm quite glad i don't have to stress about it anymore as all the beasts are going down this year. I tried my Pigeon's proj again yesterday, it was a bit hot and still again. I took my jeans and kneepad but the kneebar wasn't as bomber as i hoped. I persisted and by the end of the session i understood the intricacies of it a bit better and managed to link the 3 hard moves. Pete was trying the S crack but had a go of my proj at the end and confirmed that it's tricky and there is no revolutionary beta that i'm missing. He reckons kneepads are cheating but he's just bitter cos his knee's too short. I embrace cheating like Tiger Woods so i've gone a step further and glued some rubber to my jeans. Please let it work, winter gop is coming! After i went to the cave and had a few redpoints on The Wire, it's a bit of a frustrating one as it's very easy to fall off Broken Heart even if you feel fairly fresh. You have to concentrate and climb it right. Dyer turned up and we killed the day off down LPT. I was keen to have a play on Liquid Ambar as i hadn't been on it this year and i wanted to keep it fresh in my mind. I wanted to try the crux as i knew the big slap Moffatt beta that i had employed when i did it wouldn't work for me on the link as it would be very low percentage. I know he was Jerry Moffatt but i find the way he did that move much more dismaying than the other methods despite being less powerful. It's such a hard accurate slap to be doing there. I had been taking notes when Malc was on it last year and was keen to try his foot beta of keeping his feet low on the shit left hand crimp pinch. I pulled and i roared and i was heartbroken to discover that i'm not as strong as Malcolm Smith, i wish someone had told me sooner, i've been living a lie for all these years. Anyway this crux move is substantially harder than all the other moves on the route for me and i'm not sure how i'm going to do it. The high feet feel too high and Malcs way feels too powerful and low. It'll probably be Malcs way. Just need to get stronger on that shit left hand. Dyer tried a cheeky heel on a decent sidepull which looked interesting. I had it in mind to go away this winter and do loads of campussing but i think its more a case of being able to hold a couple of very shit holds on the crux. On the plus side i was all over the first hard bit straight off, i was pleased because this is the second hardest bit and likely font 7b+. I was even more pleased to find the last sequence pretty steady on it's own. It is significantly easier than the lower moves. I'm sure it's hard on redpoint but if you're getting there you're laughing anyway. It's my lifetime goal and i'm fairly optimistic i can crack it within ten years after yesterdays session. Just need to get beastly, work the crux out and link 13 hard moves. Shouldn't be too bad actually. Its been the golden year for Welsh sport climbing. With well over 100 new routes from French 4 to 8c+ and hopefully more to come the place really is alive.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4188354809443506526?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Pics n Vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/pics-n-vid.html)
19 September 2011, 6:16 pm
Ducko on G Spotting 7a, Pac Man boulders:
Bogroll comfortiser for toe cam on my hole proj:
Pete on the 2nd Ascent of The Madness Reigns:
Loyal belayer Tommy C:
Jimmy big guns film of the 2nd ascent of Dumpster Diver's. Looks cool, nice to see someone else recording the action!
We need some dry weather drastically, Pigeon's, The Diamond and the cave are all gopping. The Orme was shut today because of rockfall(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8718027181509427986?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Hole Truth (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/hole-truth.html)
20 September 2011, 8:04 pm
I did my project at Dyserth Waterfall (http://www.dyserth.http:0//www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifcom/html/dyserth_waterfall1.html) today. I can't believe its 9 months since i first wondered up to this crag with Tony in the search for new rock. I was taken by the steep roofs and the first line i spotted was the roof with the hole on the right. I didn't really spot the potential for the two middle lines as i couldn't see the holds. I cut down some brambles at the top of the crag so i could ab down the line of the hole route. I got down to the lip and where i had been hoping to find some good holds was basically one solitary pinch. I gave up on the route and concentrated on the other lines. The hole was good when you got into it but there were so few options for your feet, i just thought it wouldn't go for me. After i'd completed Meatsville Arizona and Strawberries Man (7c's) i decided to bolt the last two lines even if they were two hard for me someone would do them. The middle line turned into The Madness Reigns which i sandbagged at 7c+. It was one of my best new routes. I had been playing on the hole project and had worked bits of it out. Before my injury in June i had a freak go and managed to get to the lip. It was a freak and when i started trying it again i struggled to get into the hole despite being as strong. It needed drastic action and a crash diet resulted in a breakthrough two days ago. It felt like a different route and i ended up dropping the last hard move. Today i returned with my lucky belayer Norman Clacher (Norm belayed me on the other routes) and did it first redpoint. I felt strangley subdued as i lowered off. I don't know why but the usual excitement when i do something at my limit wasn't there. I just felt pleased and relieved. I've never done a route like this, it is a hard, gnarly, crazy style. The moves you are forced into doing are quite wild for a route. It felt like a weird redpoint because after setting off it was done 40 seconds later. Difficulty wise i can't pinpoint it exactly but i'm guessing it is somewhere between mid to hard 8b. It could be my hardest route, i can't really judge if it's harder than Melanchollie as they're 7 years apart and so different in style. It's 6 easy moves to a 11 move font 7c+ sequence (compared to the recent boulders i've been doing/trying) and then 6b to the top. The name is The Hole Truth (nice one gorgy). I'd love to see some other folk trying it, i'd be intrigued to see what beta people come up with. Anyway to get to the crag follow the river from the top of the falls. Please act sensibly if you visit this crag. It is a popular tourist area and the crag is close to residential properties. You all know the score. I celebrated by climbing two 5's on the left so i could tick the crag.
Pic's by Mike Doyle:
Shit topo for the hard routes:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5933512513522578078?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Black Pearl (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/black-pearl.html)
21 September 2011, 9:44 am
Years ago Dave Redpath stuck some bolts in one of the obvious main lines on The Diamond. The line followed a hanging corner in the middle of the steepness which had plenty of holds but the first couple of metres off the beach to gain the corner was totally desperate. It made sense for someone to climb the route from the first jug as it is such an excellent line and the desperate start was so unbalanced. I remember when i first went to Ceuse this was a common practice on several routes. It seemed silly on those routes as starting from the ground was only usually a grade harder. I recall people hanging on the first bolt of Blanche Fesses 7c at Cascade. The one move off the deck was a v3 dynamic move but all the stamina jug pullers couldn't handle this savage piece of bouldering so they bypassed it. On the Diamond route it was an obvious way forward and Pete Robins did the deed a few days ago at 8a (name The Black Pearl). Now all it needs is a new lower off, maybe an extension and of course the route needs to be climbed from the deck. Hopefully this will go down this season. Its brilliant watching the crag coming to maturity with the obvious new routes getting done and the old routes getting re-equipped.
I was looking in my diary this morning and i noticed a list of 14 new routes that i made back in May that i wanted to complete this year. The Hole Truth was the last one on the list but a few extras have been added. Forgot to post this pic of my lucky belayer:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1318794452250786361?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Tigger Cut (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/tigger-cut.html)
25 September 2011, 6:21 pm
Wandered into the cave and saw this beast on Trigger Cut:
I chilled for a bit after the Dyserth exploits then went down the Diamond with Pete. It was greasy on first arrival but it got good. I finished off NGOOTB. I felt good on it but climbed it mainly on strength rather on fitness. I did get a bit back on the shakeout. Without doubt a North Wales classic! Pete tried the start to The Black Pearl, awesome hard boulder problem. I had a bolt to bolt on the new 8a. It is steeper than the other low 8's and is a really good power endurance route. I was tired so didn't have a redpoint. Yesterday i had a meaty sesh in the Cave with the stags. Some more Waiting Game footage:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7051081432451404503?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New craglet near Ruthin (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/new-craglet-near-ruthin.html)
26 September 2011, 9:29 am
Two years ago my old mucker Ryan Mcconnell (aka Spidey) started developing a small roadside crag at Pwll Glass just outside of Ruthin on the A494. The crag yielded a 6a and a 6b on the right and a 7b through the central section which Danny Cattell bagged the first ascent of (name:Apple Crumble). Spidey had his sights set on a harder route on the left hand side. The route was a very nice little boulder problem passing the 3rd/4th clips involving some small crimps, a pocket and a high heel. Spidey tried the route sporadically but struggled with the tenuous bouldery crux, a long slap off the heel. This year he made the breakthrough and latched the move but got spat off the next move. He started getting through the crux more consistently recently but the last moves were still tenuous and hard for the feet and he kept dropping them. However he could tell the redpoint was close and desperate to bring closure to his seige he linked a few days in close succession and got the route ticked yesterday. It is the great thing about redpointing that we all go through the same tribulations on a long term project. The route is called Fraxinus Excelsior and is 7c or 7c+. The 7c's Spidey has done (including the LPT beast I've Been a Bad Bad Boy) have taken him considerably less effort than this route but he concedes that it may just not suit him. Time will tell but it is a very nice little route with a satisfying crux sequence. It's right by Ruthin escarpment which has been re-equipped by Lee Proctor and co so it's quite a handy micro venue. Spidey gets to jet off to Yosemite with his proj in the bag, nice one shag!
Pics:
Lee Proctor on Apple Crumble:
An attempt earlier in the year:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3458778417746927081?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Empire State (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/empire-state.html)
26 September 2011, 7:10 pm
Me and Tommy headed down The Diamond today. It was quite warm and still so we were expecting a bit of grease but the chalk was glowing as we approached and it was quite good. The crag's recent upsurge in popularity continues and there were people all over it. Tommy was keen for an old project line he re-equipped back in 2009. Right of Never get Out of The Boat is a amazing yellow streak. The start is a hard boulder sequence up to a long vertical jug and from here is a further 25 metres of amazing pumpy climbing to the top of the crag. Like The Black Pearl it makes for an unbalanced route with the first two bolts taking the grade up 3/4 grades and so the link from the jug to the top was an obvious challenge. The route has a hard sequence above the jug before it turns into a stamina fest. The rock has a rough shell so it's usually ok conditions when everything else is greasy. Tommy spent 6 days on it in 2009 and got involved again last Saturday and was soon on redpoint. Today he got the link first redpoint despite wet holds at the top. I'm glad he didn't drop the end as i doubt he would have got there again. We don't get much practice on 30 metre sport routes round here! He's called it The Empire State and has given it 8a but reckons it could be a tough one. Nice one mate. There are some pics on Mark Reeves blog (http://lifeinthevertical.co.uk/blogs/).
I had another go on The Black Pearl, i still felt tired despite a rest day but had a redpoint and powered out on the top crux sequence. It's flippin sustained and the shake isn't that good as the holds are flat. I had a realisation that i really shouldn't be wasting myself on any more fitness routes this year. I need to make the most of feeling strong not wasting the window of opportunity getting boxed and tiring myself. It was a useful epiphany to have! I need to crush some stuff before mediocrity creeps back in. Jimmy Big Guns did Skip of Fools 8a+, ye! Later i had a look at the thing i bolted on hanging rock on the Orme. After one go i've christened it Hubble's Welsh cousin, its fuckin nails! Oh well, if i ever do Louis Armstrong i'll give it another go. Some nice weather coming up, need some wind to dry Pigeons!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6260851802783610291?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
October Furnace (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/october-furnace.html)
28 September 2011, 9:20 pm
What a topsy turvy island this is! It's too hot to climb in late September. I went to the Cave today but it was warm and i had no growl. I sacked it to Pigeon's with Ducko to have a look, it was still a bit wet but my route was dry enough to have a quick look. It's all there but there's not much you can do if its wet or 30 degrees. I've lost a bit of spark this week but it's normal after a sustained psyche period and a big project. Ducko pointed out a nice clean little wall on the way down to Pigeon's. There were two potential problems that i doubt have been climbed before (the hard one defo hasn't). The left hand one was a cool sit start and followed some nice flowstone. I got it ticked when the sequence was worked out. It's worth checking out and is around 7a+. I've christened it October Furnace. The line to the right looks 8a/+ and is one for CJD i reckon when it cools down, come on fatty!
Pic's:
Come on Floppy!:
Dyer flashed The Empire State on The Diamond as a warm up like he does.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3538525185102220216?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
nevermind Chris, it was 36° yesterday here.
something's wrong.
-
Trwyn Ticking (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/trwyn-ticking.html)
2 October 2011, 11:44 am
My desire for hard climbing has diminished slightly so yesterday i was keen to go out and do some ticking on the Upper drive. Me and Tommy warmed up on Testament, a classic Orme 6c then moved on to the Cutaway as Tommy was keen to finish off John Paul and The Vatican 7(7c). I'd been up there a few days earlier with Jim having a play on the hideously horrible Rock Lobster 8a+. Tommy clipped up John Paul. I wanted to do it first go and i managed to pull it off which was good. Pretty gutting really though as i'd been on it once in 2003 and so i miss out on the flash tick. It would have been a PB in the UK too. I was satisfied with how i had climbed it however and it gave me confidence. Next up was Chain Gang Wall, i'd never done any of the hard routes despite them being some of the best on the Upper drive. Mr Olympia was the one i was keen for despite it getting a trad grade (E5 6b). It has a insitu thread and two bolts on it so feels like a sport route really (especially if you clipstick the thread- i did). The top is runout but is about french 6a. It was well chalked so i just joined the dots. It is great steep climb and my first E5 tick for quite a long time. Didn't feel like trad though. There are two other E5's on this wall that are proper trad and they look brilliant. When i've done Liquid Ambar i will get back into trad, i've pencilled in a new rack for 2022. Tommy managed to cock up the flash somehow, moment of madness on the last move. Then we headed to Black Wall which is a very nice little sector with pockety technical routes. We did Storm Warning 7a, and i cocked up The Lull (7b) on the onsight and we finshed off on Wet Dreams, a ace 7a slab which would be a very tricky onsight without chalk.
Pic by Mills:
On the bumpy boy scene Pete Robins has extended The Black Pearl to the top of the crag to make a harder 8a (i thought the original was hard enough!). He joined Tommy's route at the top so there are now two 8a mega pitches side by side. Caff and Dyer both made a rare repeat of Central Pillar on the Gwynt. Apparently its similar in difficulty and style to Masterclass and it took them 3 go's each. I'll give that a miss then!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2474904407009813904?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Pilgrimage vid (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/pilgrimage-vid.html)
5 October 2011, 12:06 pm
Jamie King found the old footage of Malc doing Pilgrimage and has stuck it on youtube. It's great to see it again, really inspiring (especially the celebration):
I am taking things easy now to let my tennis elbow sort itself out. I ignored it for a few weeks and kept pulling hard. It didn't get any worse but i'm very paranoid and want to nip it in the bud now. I'm pretty sure it's a consequence of the sudden strength increase that i underwent. Apparently tendons are 6 weeks or so behind muscles in strengthening. So lots of stretching and hot and cold for me and some easy climbing. Bit gutted as i was sposed to be going to Font next week!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3448570841914938682?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
what a bad ass link!
-
The reaction shows the effort commitment desire needed to do what you want to do,need to up my game alot,could watch that over and over,reaction makes that clip the best clip i've seen for a long time,no need for HD ,doesn't matter what grade, just need to make more effort.nice one
-
I wish I could put into words how inspiring/impressive that is. He cruises through most of it, looks like he's trying a little to get past the undercut then gets to the start of Beaver Cleaver god knows how many moves and sections of hard climbing later. And what does he he go and do? He pretty much STATICS the 'throw' to the lip! :o
-
I had seen that vid years ago and then it disappeared. what a joy to find it again. I watched it yesterday at the boulders in a boiling Chironico between goes.
did the magic (along with two pretty girls spotting... :yes:).
-
The Ferret (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/ferret.html)
7 October 2011, 2:54 pm
Pete Robins has climbed a very old project down LPT. It was known as the Angel Project and is a short bouldery affair left of Mellanchollie. This route has been strangely neglected over the years, despite being short it is a nice wall. It would certainly have been done if it were in the Peak and would be the best route on the right hand side of Raven Tor. I think it was bolted by Johnny Dawes back in the day and has seen attention off a few people. Steve Mcclure almost did it years ago but pulled a hold off the top. I belayed him on it again a few years later and he was all over it but split his tip. Matt Donnelly, Mark Katz and Danny Cattell all put some effort in over the years. Danny got through the crux but was pulled off by his belayer (Bob Hickish). Despite effort from all these beasts Pete reckons the difficulties are about font 7c and french 8b and he's called it The Ferret.
We re-equipped the line last winter. Pics:
By my calculations there have been 11 new grade 8's in the area this year. 3 8a's, 3 8a+s, 4 8b's, 1 8c+.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4689194944189168735?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
was pulled off by his belayer
I can see that being somewhat distracting
-
was pulled off by his belayer
I can see that being somewhat distracting
It's usual down on the Orme Chris, just part of the scene especially when the weather is a bit unsettled like now. Some people like it, others find it distracting. Personally I'm always keen, whether climbing or belaying.
-
New Proj (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/new-proj.html)
12 October 2011, 7:27 pm
I'm feeling increasingly refreshed after having a break from pulling hard. The elbow hasn't really improved so it's been an enforced rest. I've had to sack off my Font trip which was dissapointing but you can't go there with a bad elbow. Tony 'knackered elbows' Shelmerdine says it's not tennis elbow as it is in the centre on the outside. Anyone any ideas? I've been doing some easier routes and have bolted a couple of projects. One is a line i'm very excited about at Dulas, a link up of my two roofs that Ben Heason spotted when he tried Temple. The new section of climbing looks really good and hard. The whole route will certainly be harder than Temple, time will tell if it qualifies for the next grade or not. I'd quite like it too as long as it's doable, i like going up there!
Aiding in the roof:
Something to play on next year anyway. Early Bird on the outside of the Cave has been bolted to give a fine 6b and Norman has done a route branching out right at about 6b+. Tony has been very active re-equipping on the Orme. He's re-equipped Hamburger Buttress. The routes got trad grades but relied on a lot of insitu gear. So we need the sport grades for these routes for the guides.
Tommy fingering his beast:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2164062215664651323?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I've had issues with the outside of my elbows, usually when hitting the bouldering hard again after doing routes for a while. Hurts most when releasing deep locks, or when doing compression.
Jerry Joe thought it might be referred issues from shoulder instabilities and doing rotator cuff exercises with a theraband has certainly helped in the past.
-
ta, could be transferred pain. :(
-
I am starting to a pattern developing due to my muscular inbalances. Last year I had bad elbows and this probably transferred to excessive loading on my shoulders during a winter of training so this year I had injured sub scapulars which lead to lat strains. I'm back to elbows now!
-
I'm keen to sort out muscular imbalances when i start training, i feel old
-
The Wizard is Oz (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/wizard-is-oz.html)
16 October 2011, 4:01 pm
I did my 24th new route of the year today at Penmaenhead. I had wondered about the wall right of Clogau Gold years ago but had never checked it out. Recently Tommy mentioned he had looked at it and it looked good. I abbed down it and it did look very cool so i bolted it up. The route took no cleaning and there were no loose holds at all which is rare for a virgin route of this height. The rock is really nice and rough. The route follows the first two bolts of Clogau Cold on easy terrain then breaks right onto the ledge. From here blast straight up the headwall. The first section is reasonably steady up to a small overlap and a jug. Then you tackle the crux sequence which is a really nice tenuous couple of moves with some more nice moves above on bad feet. I've called it The Wizard is Oz. Oz is the 6 ft 6 Ghambian doorman at The Barrel in Rhyl, a very handsome man. I've given it 7b+, it's quite hard to grade as the hard section is very shortlived but it seems too thin for 7b and it's a bit easier than a hard 7b+ like Rompsville. All in all a very satisfying experience and if it's my last new route this year it's a good one to end on. I'm chuffed to have the hardest route as Dyserth, Dulas and Penmaenhead. I was a bit snooty about Penmaenhead years ago when i was doing the first new routes there. Fair play to the old king though it is a very handy crag. It's a convenient ticking venue but the quality is actually very good and with over 60 routes there's loads to go at. I onsighted Clogau Gold 7a after my FA and found it quite tough for 7a. I think it's because it was unchalked and i've just been following the dots this year. Nice big wall anyway.
I went to Dulas with Pete Robin's the other day. Pete did the 2nd ascent of The Last Crusade, he managed it first redpoint which is a good effort as it's quite a complex route and hard to remember straight off. I guess it doesn't matter when you're four grades beneath your limit. He confirmed the grade but said he found it as hard as Temple which he found really easy. I still think he beasted Temple and 8c wad Bob Hickish has a couple of sessions on it recently and reckoned it was tricky. I had a play on the link up i bolted. The new section was really good and it seemed like the moves would go ok with some time. It's definitely doable but i'm going to have to be climbing well. It'll be quite pumpy with Last Crusade start, then hard 8 move or so middle sequence then the redpoint crux of Temple. Look's like i'll be seiging in that roof for the 3rd year in a row. We then went down LPT, pete was keen for a look on The Big Crunch project that i bolted a year or two ago. The first crux is nails and it's yet to be worked out. The middle section is excellent and doable and then there's a really hard lip encounter. Pete reckoned it could be 9a! I had a go at the middle bit and did the moves, LPT LGP! Footage of Tommy crushing Simon Says 8a in Split Infinity:
Finally some bellend kids have set fire to the two gym mats in the Cave. Tommy put it out and no real harm is done but i think it's worth keeping the place free from such detritus as it is definitely tempting for some nob who's a bit trigger happy with his lighter. It could have been a lot worse!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2679888879852475713?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Nice stuff busy as always! Like a dog with two dicks
-
or a human with a 10 incher...
-
Like Oz?
-
Oz is probably the biggest man on the planet ;)
-
Oz is probably the biggest man on the planet ;)
When he waves his wand do you fall under his spell?
-
The Acid Test and Mega New 7c on Little Orme! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/acid-test-and-mega-new-7c-on-little.html)
22 October 2011, 5:50 pm
The Electric Cool-Aid Acid Test is one of the iconic Pen Trwyn routes. It was first climbed by Ron Fawcett at E5 6c in 1983 and was one of the most technical challenges at the time. I have always thought it would be cool to do it. It was on the front of the Pollitt 87 guide and was one of the significant testpieces of the 80s boom. Ben and Jerry even met under it for the first time. The difficulties are fairly short, easy plodding leads to a pristine scooped headwall where everything blanks out. I was out with Tommy today. We started up at Mumbo Jumbo doing a few warm ups and Tommy did the FA of a new line that Tony had bolted on the left hand side of the crag. It's about 7a+ and he's called it Lizzy Askins (ahem, the girl who popped my cherry, ahem. His idea not mine!). We then headed up to the Acid Test area and both did Quicksilver (really good 7a) to get a top rope on it. I had been on it briefly before and remember struggling to understand it! This time i spent the first 30 minutes trying to identify holds and trying to execute funky positions and palming manouveres. I couldn't believe i was on a 7b+!! Eventually i worked out a sequence that involved crimpy pulls on crozzly holds. It was just pulling really and not overly technical in the end. It went pretty easily first redpoint and i was left wondering what all the fuss had been about. It must be one of the hardest 7b+ onsights in the country when it's unchalked though. Stevie Haston managed it onsight back in the 80s which was a great effort. I don't think many would onsight it now (get on it N Waleans). Satisfying! We then went and hommed around on some 7a's and i did two old routes that have recently been bolted up. Big is Best is now roughly 6b and Adequate Compensation 6b+ish. I think they're both destined to be quite popular.
France? Spain? No, the Orme in October!:
I spotted this project for the Wideboys today for when they return:
Last week me and Tommy headed down to Detritus wall on the Little Orme with Pete Harrison. Pete has spent 8 days putting a handline in across the top of the wall from the grassy ledge above Atlanta Wall all the way across the wall to the Ocean of Emotion belay. Pete rates this new handline as his best achievement in the area. He had some pretty hairy moments sticking it in and most of it he was self belaying holding on to terrible loose rock while sticking in the bolts. Dave Lyon had tipped Pete off about a line to the left of Ocean which he reckoned would probably be just as good. Pete thought this would be a good reward for his efforts and soon had the line bolted an worked. Today he redpointed it at 7c stating it was one of the best of it's grade around. It is a great wall in an amazing position and now it's not even an epic to access it. I got some pics of Pete working the line. Ocean of Emotion looked immaculate too. It takes a orange streak through pristine rock and wall climbing. It looks like a route from Demi Lune sector, Ceuse stuck to the Orme. The last bit of the routes are a bit shitty to the handline. Pete was struggling to get a belayer so he drove to the hills to pick Calum Muskett up who repaid him by working out the top. Calum also bagged the 2nd ascent.
Bird shit tufas:
Handline:
Top roping the proj:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-365885116511708253?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Alberta Rose (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/alberta-rose.html)
23 October 2011, 1:00 pm
Pete Harrison has sent over some info about his new route:
I finished my most recent 'do something creative whilst the weather's shit' project - the Detritus Wall traverse which provides airy access to those intriguing routes out above the sea. Of all the things I've done over the last couple of years this is definitely the thing I'm most proud of. It's been so fulfilling to go out there by myself after work and do such a bizarre thing, trying not to think about the consequences of a mistake and the resulting 40 metre plummet to the sea with rope, drill, batteries, bolts, gear and god knows what other shit hanging off me dragging me down like a stone. Then getting back safely to the pub car park and seeing the fat fuckers doing their chain-pub thing makes me feel priveledged to be able to spend time in the hidden corners of the Ormes!
Anyway I thought it was a fitting use of the last of the DMM Eco bolts, which Dave Lyon gave to me last year after having been holding onto them for the last 15 years waiting for the next classic. What a great design they were.
Dave's efforts back in the day make mine look like childs' play. During 'a bit of a bad patch' he thought it'd be good to go out across Detritus Wall by himself with a single 9mm rope, a sky hoook, a drill and some ironmongery. It took him half a day to do what took me eight - to get to the top of what is now Ocean of Emotion. I found it quite harrowing at times and I had all the old kit ahead of me to aim for. Dave wouldn't have had any of that. Fucking loon.
Pete has called his route Alberta Rose. He has provided some more in depth info about the area:
Detritus and Atlanta Walls
Access to the these walls is actually simple - no harder than accessing Gogarth uper tier and easier than The Diamond. You can walk straight to the abseil point for all the routes on Atlanta Wall and the first three routes on Detritus Wall. A simple 30m abseil reaches good non-tidal ledges with bolt belays on the Detritus Wall routes, or a thread-belay for the Atlanta Wall routes. All the routes have good bolts - stainless though-bolts on Dave Lyon's Detritus Wall and Atlanta Wall routes, stainless 'petzl long-lifes' on a couple of the left-hand Atlanta Wall routes, resins on Alberta Rose.
Atlanta Wall gets sun from 2pm in August / 3.30pm in October. Detritus Wall gets the sun from 2.30pm in August / 4pm in October. Both walls are more exposed to the wind and get more sun than The Diamond so are more reliable for good conditions. Climbing here on a sunny afternoon is pretty hard to beat. Stormy October/November may be memorable for less pleasant reasons, but yesterday was primo climbing conditions and weather. Atalanta wall faces due West, Detritus Wall faces NW.
The in-situ handline across Detritus Wall is very airy but well bolted. 'E' is reached by abbing down to a non-tidal ledge from the first set of double rings about one-thirds way along the traverse. Ocean of Emotion and Alberta Rose are reached by abbing to a non-tidal ledge from the end of the traverse.
You can gear up for the routes on Detritus Wall at the start of the traverse, but I find it better to take the packs in to the end of the traverse for Ocean of Emotion/Alberta Rose and leave them hanging from the line - careful with the wallet and car keys!
Either take an ab rope or a lighter option is to take a clip stick as a fail-safe for getting out. If go with the clip stick you'll need to know how to rig a single line retrivable abseil if abbing in on gri-gri's, or bring a normal belay plate.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8727037826358979676?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
End of Season (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/end-of-season.html)
6 November 2011, 8:21 pm
I've only climbed on average once a week for the last 5/6 weeks. It's the best time of year for a break and i needed to rest my elbow anyway. It's slowly improving but i've not thought too much about climbing in the last month. Considering how obsessed i am about climbing for the majority of the year it does surprise me how well i handle not climbing. I am pleased and relieved my life doesn't implode when i don't go. Of course i miss the buzz and excitement but a sedate life has plenty going for it too. I didn't climb for 2 weeks until yesterday. Me and Tommy went for a probable last blast down LPT. Tommy hommed around on 8a and i finished off Rompsville which i had tried briefly earlier in the year. I must say i was surprised with how good it is. I had always imagined it to be gnarly and sharp and nasty. It starts up Statement and then breaks right through 6c+/7a ground up to a decent rest. The crux is the slabby headwall which is very sequency and involves some cool sidepull holds and small feet. It's an excellent sequence and deserves more attention really. It did get upgraded to 7c from 7b+ but i'm inclined to keep these old skool slabby testpieces as their original grades. Routes like Cafe Libre, The Acid test and Rompsville do feel hard for the grade because most people these days are more adept at steep climbing and i thinks slabs traditionally feel stiff for the grade anyway. It's still warm enough to do routes round here but the feeling that the season is coming to an end is prevalent. It's not bad though when you can do routes for the majority of the year. After we went up to Pill Box where there was a healthy scene. The bangor boys were bouldering and doing routes and Pete Robins was checking out Carinthian Groove 8b, the hardest route on the upper drive. I put my boots on to try a few hard moves, i was dreading it as i haven't tried any hard moves for 5 weeks and i've put on half a stone. I needn't of worried as my old friend the Pill Box sorted me out and i managed Pill Bow Original, Mr Whippy, Chocolate Wall and Last Rites 7b+. I was quite surprised as i got spanked there in summer that day with Nodder when i had been climbing a lot. Don't write yourself off before you pull on! Time to start climbing again perhaps(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8544429749380871406?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back to The Chase (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/back-to-chase.html)
16 November 2011, 5:03 pm
Well i started training again and so far so good. My elbow still feels ok and i was pleasantly surprised not to be completely terrible. It must be because i was quite strong when i stopped so i didn't sink to the usual levels of crapness that i would have done normally. I was also pleased to be feeling motivated on the board. I half expected it to feel like a slog but i've really enjoyed it so far. You soon remember why you like doing it and why the sedate life will never be enough. I even missed brushing holds! Climbing has simplified from those last few months of summer where i wanted to climb FA's, existing routes, get ticks, go bouldering. Now i see a winter of training ahead of me (if my body can withstand it). I always had it in mind to focus on raising my game over this winter and the plan hasn't changed. I want to redpoint harder stuff than i've done which means doing it in North Wales which means power, power and more power. I know i need to be consistently stronger to have a chance on some of the hardies round here. During my usual elevated 3 weeks a year i'm capable of hard climbing but to actually do something i need to feel like that for months at a time. I couldn't believe how doable Liquid Ambar felt when i got on it that day but if it's gonna take 40/50 days then 2 weeks of beastliness won't cut it. I need to raise my game through months of hard training and actually raise my base level rather than relying on weight loss and the stars coming into alignment. So lots of board sessions and lots of bouldering. I'm still keen for all those problems i listed a few months ago and will start heading out when i hit den 7b again, hopefully shouldn't be long. I put on half on stone during my lay off so i'm not expecting too many fireworks for a while as i'm sure as hell not dieting again til next year. I'm keen to get on the campus board in the Mill at some point as this has always been a major weakness of mine. I remember when i was going pretty well in the School but couldn't do 147 when everyone else could cream it. I'm not sure exactly how much of a difference it will make to me but it's worth a shot. There is a great wooden symmetry board in the mill with great holds made by Nodder and i know this is great tool for getting those fingers strong. The crux of Liquid Ambar involves being strong and powerful on two slopey crap holds so this will be ideal for this. Might as well aim high and hopefully bag a few tricky 8's on the way back down to earth...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2033672687629122203?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
A55 Second Edition on way! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/a55-second-edition-on-way.html)
25 November 2011, 3:30 pm
Since the A55 sport climbs book was released in 2010 my old king has continued to chronicle the developments in the area. In 18 months there have been 117 new routes, new sectors and even new crags. Three crags have been developed in Dyserth, Llanddulas has 3 new sectors, Penmaenhead has a new sector and Craig y Gigfran above Penmaenmawr was developed. Pesda Press (http://www.pesdapress.com/Climbing-&-mountaineering-Climbing/c10_30/p36/A55-Sport-Climbs/product_info.html) are publishing the 2nd edition and it should be on the shelves a few weeks into December. The guide looks great, the new crags have really fleshed it out and the action shots are much better. There's even some hard routes now. Pesda have stuck a couple of quid onto the price as it's a bigger guide but it's great value at £13.99. I will give a run down on the new crags on this here blog.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1714306995015032706?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ty Newydd (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/ty-newydd.html)
28 November 2011, 10:27 pm
Perhaps the best new crag in my dad's guide is Ty Newydd in Dyserth. It is one of those crags that makes you doubt yourself on the approach as you can't imagine that a cliff is about to appear. It is situated in a wooded valley in some fields and from spring onwards the air is pungent with the smell of wild garlic. The main section of crag is deceiving. It consists of sections of steep wall and slabbier sections. The holds are often hidden and sloping making onsighting reasonably tricky and the rock is a flinty type of limestone. The crag is on a farmer's private land and thus far he has been very accomodating with regard to access. However this will not be the case if people ignore the strict access arrangements. The most important of these is that there is no access to the crag from 1st October to 31 January on Friday and Saturdays. It is very important that this is adhered to.
There are some great longer routes like Chilly Tea 6c and Ivan the Responsible 6b+. Black Wednesday is a great 7a+ and Three Degrees of Levitation is a cool 7c. Dreambadger 7c+ is a super steep boulder problem on a rope. Wouldn't mind a grade opinion on this. And finally Pete Robins First Round, First Second provides some real beef at 8a+. All info in the guide!
Dreambadger:
Chill Tea:
Mule on Black Wednesday:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4201747876039207873?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Out of interest, what happens on fridays and saturdays?
-
Orgy with cavorting druids.
-
Out of interest, what happens on fridays and saturdays?
As SA Chris said, the crag is reserved for Doylo to carry out his "specialist activities". Believe me, you don't want to stumble across those shenanigans.
-
They blow a load of pheasants heads off with guns. The farmer makes a lot of money out of it so is obviously its critical for him.there are bmc signs up but i just pray everyone sticks to the agreement or it could be game over.I spend my saturdays killing peasants
-
Sounds very unpheasant to me.
-
They blow a load of pheasants heads off with guns. The farmer makes a lot of money out of it so is obviously its critical for him.there are bmc signs up but i just pray everyone sticks to the agreement or it could be game over.I spend my saturdays killing peasants
Ha ha nice I see what you did there!
-
Dyserth Castle Slab (aka Ghost Canyon) (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/dyserth-castle-slab-aka-ghost-canyon.html)
1 December 2011, 5:24 pm
The final part of the Dyserth jigsaw is the big slab above the Dyserth-Prestatyn walkway. This has been messed about on for years by locals but my old king took it upon himself to bolt the place up this year to give a fine new crag that is pretty unique for the area. There aren't many big limestone slabs around here! The slab took a lot of cleaning but is now in pretty good shape. There are 6 routes with the hardest and best being an old Andy Pollitt route Genesis which went at E3 with a old bolt or two. It's is now a excellent 6b+. The crag gets mucho sun and is close to the car park. So Dyserth now has 3 great crags. The Waterfall with its easy walls and meaty roof routes. Ty Newydd, longer more technical challenges and some shorties and the sunny slab to keep the punts happy. The gop bouldering cave is also up the road and Meliden Quarry has a few old sport routes and a neat little bouldering wall. Both these places will feature in the guide.
Mikey D at work:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2518538762496842953?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
sorry if this has been asked before but whens the guide book out ?
-
Think the supplier gets it 6th december
-
Drink Driving 3rd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/drink-driving-3rd-ascent.html)
4 December 2011, 12:55 pm
We have a new beast living on the coast. Dan Knight has moved over from Yorkshire and he's already made the 3rd ascent of Drink Driving confirming mine and Ed Hamer's assessment of bottom end 8a+. A few beasts have been snooty about the grade of this problem over the years without even trying it. Tommy told me Mick Adams downgraded it with his eyes which isn't a bad effort. I guess it doesn't look that hard and the moves are ok on their own but that's not the problem is it. He played around on Jack the Drunk too which he reckoned was higher up the grade. Dan thought it was really good and comparable to 8a+s he'd encountered on his travels. I haven't had chance to get on rock as i've been engaging in the strange practice of work. It's a bit of a shock really. It's too dark to go out after work and it rains all weekend so you're a bit stuffed really. I popped into Tremeirchion the other day to play on Danny's low start to 36 Chambers. I'm surprised this hasn't really seen much attention by the people who've done the stand. In my mind its one of the best hard problems in these parts. The limestone is really good, it starts on a massive blob tufa, is sustained and has great moves and is a good length, about 13 moves. I think maybe the low is slightly unobvious as there are only a couple of holds and they're quite spaced. Apparently some folk thought the sitter went from the left which wouldn't be anything special. Anyway i still felt ok on the stand if a little heavier (8 pounds to be precise!). I figured out a sequence on the low moves but didn't quite manage them. It is a pretty hard link for 7c+, it could potentially be 8a, time will tell. It must be 7b+ or so just to get into the stand up and then that would be a real battle. Awesome! Training's been going better than i expected, i've got up to top form on the board in 6/7 sessions despite being a fat cunt. I don't mind one bit being heavy, there's no point being a stick insect all year. So much of my top end climbing relies on that weight loss impact and the bigger the impact the better next June! If i can get den 7b+ like this i should be crusing.
The board:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1837896863624804904?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Tower and Golf Ball Wall (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/tower-and-golf-ball-wall.html)
5 December 2011, 6:04 pm
I reported a new mini sector at Llanddulas in the summer. Further on from KO Wall two other sectors have been developed. The Tower/Turret is quite a significant new crag. Most people driving along the A55 will have spotted the tower on the wooded hillside before Colwyn Bay. Myself, Tony and Norman put up 9 routes there this year. The crag must be 18 metres or so and the climbing is very good on most the routes. Norman did a 6b+ and a couple of 7a's. Tony put up a 6a+ and a 6c+ and bolted a project (which he will be doing next year, stay off please. I put up a 7c, 7b and the route of the crag Vegas Nights which goes at 6c+. It is a nice line and is nice and sustained all the way without a noticeable crux section. The crag was quite loose when we first abbed it and hasn't had much traffic yet so take care.
Me on vegas Nights:
Spidey high on Vegas:
Between the Main cave and the Turret is a little craglet above the path hidden in the trees. I found the crag and myself and Tony gave it a quick blitz to give 9 short but pleasant routes. The routes are all in the 6's apart from one 7a+ of mine. It won't be denting Ceuse's popularity next summer but i'm sure people will go there.
We called the crag Golf Ball Wall after the finding driving range gold balls all over the hillside in strange positions. Must be the crows!
Spidey on Off With Their Heads 7a+:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WfDEgQFcYXI/Tt0Ok_gavyI/AAAAAAAABa4/jOh_B0kitmE/s320/spidey%2Bgolf%2Bball.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WfDEgQFcYXI/Tt0Ok_gavyI/AAAAAAAABa4/jOh_B0kitmE/s1600/spidey+golf+ball.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4978212637241596040?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I got the book! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/i-got-book.html)
6 December 2011, 9:22 pm
I picked up a copy of the A55 2nd edition today from the old king. It is twice as big as the first edition and looks really good. Nice one to Mikey and to Pesda Press, the world's fastest climbing guide publisher (unbelievable). I'm really excited to see my babies and the new stuff documented. There's quite a few pics of me but before anyone starts throwing charges of nepotism just remember you can choose your friends.....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7746954262515815610?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back to The Craft (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/back-to-craft.html)
11 December 2011, 11:59 am
Unbelievably it's been 9 years since those first bouldering forays at Craftnant and the FA's of Wonderwall, Cruella and Grasswind (think the latter two were in 2003). The crag has reached maturity in recent times and has been in vogue this year. I went up yesterday with Dan to give Nodder's neo classic Special K a blast. Time conspired against us and we got distracted so didn't get on it. I will be back! It was a bit dampy on arrival but just about climbable. We warmed up pissing about on Katzy's Cruella. It's funny as at the time we didn't think much about this problem but now i'm of the opinion that it's brilliant. The moves are really cool and the holds are so lush. Really nice rough mountain slopes. Dan got it quickstyle, i found myself having a bit of a battle in the end as i kept homming it up. I manned up in the end and finished it. Dan was checking out Floppy's 8b to the right. I remember taking Chris up there, when he first spotted the line i disregarded his interest. Fair play it's a cracker and one of the better hard problem's in North Wales. Really pure, short and hard. Dude's got the vision! Dan's quite keen for it, would be cool for it to get repeated. He's got decent pedigree, he did 8b in Rocklands this year and has climbed numerous 8a+'s around the place including a 30 minute ascent of Jim Holloways Trice 8a+ at Flagstaff, Colorado. With fading light we jumped ship to DC's 7c Grasswind which has had a few ascent's this year. I really didn't think this one was for me but i perservered. I tried to get the heel to work for ages but it just wasn't having it so i abandoned all finesse and got the move laying one on. This was actually ok and the set up was easier. It was getting dark however so i needed to act fast. Dan ticked it with a mad toe hook power screaming his way through. I got the good hold on the lip from the start but my foot slipped off matching. I gritted my teeth, got into the 'board' mentality and satched it up. Mega, a fantastic problem, as good as Cruella with also a beautiful visual line. These problems are some of the better ones of their grade in NWales. Consensus seems to be soft 7c for Grasswind but i didn't find Cruella to be 2 grades easier so perhaps that is 7b+. I still think Wonderwall's too brutal for 7b especially now it's lost a hold. When i was trying to make the cruxes of these problem's i found myself thinking back to how hard i try and how ferocious i get on the board. Why is it so hard to replicate this effort outside! I do stuff inside that seconds before i thought i had no chance on by conjuring up pure psyche from within and just forcing myself to do a move that feels improbable. I need to tap into this on rock and i'll pull stuff out the bag a lot quicker.
Top Craftnant tips
- take wellies or get piss wet feet ( slid down the hill all the way on my arse getting soaked)
- don't park on muddy downwards slopes. The fucking car got stuck and we had to piss about sticking pebbles and bracken under the wheels. Slightly epic.
Old pic of Floppy on Grasswind:
Now i'm off to this magnificent place!:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3369325812243509803?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Norm Rescued by Future King (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/norm-rescued-by-future-king.html)
13 December 2011, 5:32 pm
Norman Clacher caned himself at a new crag x yesterday. My old king was belaying and tells the tale He had just started up a new route and was pulling over the initial overhang pulled off 2 large slabs of rock one on top of the other. I couldn't believe it - they were'nt jutting out so you could get some leverage on them but on a flat ledge and the whole thing seemed to defy the laws of physics. Norm and the slabs were coming towards me and I nearly crapped myself. I ducked under the overhang, locked off the rope but Norm seemed to hit the deck at the same time as the blocks. The edge of one landed on his pelvis and he was in a lot of pain. He got choppered out and I went down to casualty at Glan Clwyd. He has a fractured pelvic socket. Lucky as hell - it so easily could have been curtains for both of us.
I reckon Prince William was flying the chopper. Get well soon Norm and easy on those nurses!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6056735030781810506?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Good luck Norm! I met him once in the CC hut in the pass, funny guy, pleasingly vulgar.
-
Looks like he'll be breaking his time off record, was about 4 days previously
-
shit,hows he doin now?? that'll be an interesting route name when its done.
-
Hes in glan clwyd recuperating
-
Winter is Wank (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/winter-is-wank.html)
18 December 2011, 3:49 pm
I've just been reminded today of how Winter is an abysmal time of year. You can't get your fingers warm, it's so rainy and wet, it snows - stopping you going places, it gets dark at 3 o clock, its so flippin muddy. It is just generally shite. For the stuff i like to climb it doesn't need to be -10 so it's no use to me. I've been ill this week, i even thought i might have meningitis at one point. I don't luckily but still feel wonky. Being a sensible person i sacked off recuperation indoors and went on top of the freezing Little Orme for 2 days to piss about. Mr P, Robins and Dan came up yesterday. We were huddled under Cave wall trying to warm up. Dan and Pete were both trying Caveman Low 7c+. Neither managed it and Mr P bailed on Caveman too. I went back with Dan today and he romped it. He then started trying Mule's '7c+' Batman to the right. Now if most people would have done this problem they would have thought to themselves 'well Caveman Low is soft 7c+ and this is 2 grades harder so i should probably give it hard 8a'. Mule's line of thinking was 'it can't be 8a, 8a is a grade reserved for the God's and even though i can do one armer's on pinches and am insanely strong i will give it 7c+ to be on the safe side'. I asked Mule and he said 'it's quite a bit harder than the low start but i'm scared to give things 8a'. Those boys, those boys! Dan said it would get 8a+ in Hueco. We walked round to bulging wall and the heavens opened, grim grim grim. I had a play on Weirdo when it stopped but it remains my ultimate Nemesis. I couldn't re-warm my fingers at all so sacked it. Sack.
Pete trying Caveman Low:
DK on Batman 8a:
Dan repeated the variant start to Drink Driving, Jack the Drunk last week.
Last night i had a dream that Vechio Lione in Brione was made of limestone and that the 3rd hold had snapped off and been replaced with a ugly resin edge. Weird.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-131573349878350207?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
LOL, good post, made me laugh.
-
Best New Routes of the Year (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/best-new-routes-of-year.html)
19 December 2011, 2:58 pm
It's been perhaps the most frenzied year for new route activity on the North Wales Limestone for the best part of 20 years. From show stopping high 8's to diddy 5's there's been a lot going on throughout the region. The A55 guide has almost doubled in size, Lee Proctor and friends have been busy at Pantymywn and Ruthin and the Ormes have continued to provide routes as good as any in the UK. There were 11 new grade 8's on the coast, i don't think this has ever happened before in a year! Anyway here are my top ten, argue away at will, they're not in order of quality. couldn't be ringed with that! When i told Pete Robins and Pete Harrison i was doing the list i jokingly said 9 out of the 10 routes were my routes. It is probably indicative of how vain and deluded people think i am as they actually believed me!
Megalopa,8c+, LPT, Neil Dyer
The most significant Welsh line of the year! This incredible route was a surprise to many who hadn't even spotted the potential for a direct finish to Walking Mussel up that gleaming white headwall. Pete Robins and Neil bolted it together and tried it together. Initial forays soon accelerated into full blown redpoints and a race to the top ensued that provided much excitement and entertainment for the regular LPT goers. We hadn't seen a situation like this before (had Britain on anything near this hard??!), both climbers had a long way to go. It was a case of placing your bets, popping on you 3D specs, pulling out a deck chair and watching the action. Neil was the darhorse but despite him not having done the Walking Mussel he took the early advantage being more consistent on that middle crux sequence. We thought he had it in him but did he? Pete was the current king of the crag but was not up to full speed yet and he would have to get used to breathing in Dyer's Miura dust. Dyer soon made it through the first crux on the headwall. Pete had made it to the move but was in bulk and not close. Everyone expected a quick conclusion but it wasn't to be as Dyer came up short on the next big move. Weeks passed and Robins started to gather momentum. How would Dyer cope with this new situation. He wanted it, he felt he deserved it but would he get it! The prospect of Robin's latching that first crux and then shooting to the top like a rat up a drainpipe was omnipresent. He kept it chill, he continued not to warm up and one day in mid August he stuck that twatting move. I watched with baited breath from the Over The Moon crack as he negotiated the finishing moves. Nervously but solidly he topped out and shrieked: "Is it happening" (wait for the footage to hear this delightful quip). A brilliant well deserved achievement and a fantastic route that will hopefully receive the attention it deserves. To his credit Pete kept plugging away and a few weeks later got his topout to assure his place as an LPT great and becoming the first to tick the 8c+ trilogy.
Red Meat,7b,Craig Pen Gogarth,Pete Harrison
Pete Harrison must have racked up the most ab time yet again this year. Exploring the Orme researching for the bolt fund guide helped him unearth a few plum lines. The most significant of these was Red Meat on the leaning wall opposite 'Dave Lyon' crag. This 30 metre line took much effort to bolt and clean and was pretty unique for the area. The first 2/3 or so was relatively steady with pumpy climbing but some good rests. This let to a sustained finishing crux sequence where decison making was of the essence as your forearms waned. The route became a popular tick with many intrigued parties heading down for the new Orme pump experience.
The Madness Reigns,8a,Dyserth Waterfall, Chris Doyle
Probably the best new route on a excellent new sector. Worthy of inclusion for the crux sequence along which features some pathetic grips. Good fun. The two 7c's are also excellent and the 8b will float some people's boats.
Pic: Ray Wood:
Release The Hounds,7c,Craigiau Gigfran,Gav Foster
Finally Gav got round to climbing his project (hence the name)! This curving overhanging prow above Penmaenmawr was one of the worst kept secrets in North Wales. Gav realised the time had come and put a few sessions in in order to bag it. The first half of the route is the prow feature. It is climbed with compression and heels, you really feel like you're fighting to stop yourself slipping off the frictionless rock. After the crux better holds and easier climbing are waiting and a nervy romp to the top via some excellent wall climbing. Release the Hounds became an instant classic and propelled itself to near the top of the 7c quality list. For me it was brilliant to do something unique for the area that wasn't just another overhanging piece of limestone.
The Empire State,8a,The Diamond,Tommy Chamings
Diamond season really captured the imagination this year. Pete Harrison and Neil Dyer were all over the massive walls in exploration mode. There were ropes hanging everywhere. More curious visitors landed on the beach and more quality routes went up. One of the coolest lines was Tommy's project from 2009 which followed a yellow streak of rough grease free Diamond rock. The first 2 bolts featured desperate bouldery climbing but from there the route was 8a and went right to the top of the crag. It had jugs, shakeouts and runouts and was unlike most of the 8's in the area. With this route and Pete Robin's excellent The Black Pearl just to the right it made sense to start them initially with aid starts from the jugs. Why deny ourselves 25 metres of 3 star climbing for the sake of a boulder problem! If it's good enough for Ceuse! Anyway Tommy satched it up quicktime and Dyer did the deed on the flash. Supersmashinggreat
Pic by Mark Reeves:
The Brute,8b,The Diamond,Neil Dyer
The Diamond super route of the year and right near the top of the best of it's grade in the country. For me it isn't the amazing line, movement and rock that make this route so special-it's the style. Bouldery routes are too short, stamina routes are too long. Power endurance is the most interesting style for me and this route epitomises the best of it even though it is a lot of moves for PE. From leaving the amazing juggy flake at the 2nd bolt it's a weaving, sustained, hold onto your hats sprint to the top with barely a chance to catch breath. In 32 moves you only really stop once and it's not a good rest as the right hand is on a sloper. You cling to the barrelled steepness trying to execute each move as well as possible to preserve strength. Speed is important but not to the detriment of precision. Basically it just flows like perfection and the difficulties are largely dispersed on amazing holds. The climbing let's up a bit towards the chain but you need to keep crimping when the crimp is fading. A 20 year old project; props to Steve Mayers for his early efforts and to Neil for making it a reality. Jordan and Caff nipped in for repeats and seemed to agree with the hard 8b tag. Mega
The Last Crusade,8a+,Llanddulas Cave,Chris Doyle
Last year when i was redpointing on what would become Temple of Gloom i spent a lot of time staring at this line trying to imagine what you would pull on and how it climbed. Unlike Temple it had never been inspected before. Early this year i pestered Tony to lug his ladder up there and we got the thing bolted. Sessions of hanging on the bolts trying to figure out shapes, positions and moves followed. On both those roof routes i have been amazed how steady the sections have become after a bit of time playing around. I soon had the sections wired enough to try some redpoints although it was a bit of a memory test on the complex sea of slopey sidepulls at the end. Just as i was about to seal the deal i tore my oblique warming up on it resulting in a month out and severe pain when sneezing. I was soon back in the groove and pulled out a memorable ascent with a near skipping bolts deck out scene. If you like PE and you like roof climbing get on it!
Alberta Rose, 7c,Detritus Wall,Pete Harrison
Pete's little community project for the year was installing a handline across the top of Detritus Wall on the Little Orme to allow safe access to classic but neglected routes like Ocean of Emotion. These routes were glorified in the guidebooks but the carrot was still a little untempting. Pete's handline was a brilliant piece of craftsmanship and he regarded it as his biggest achievement in the area. As word started to get out he knew he haqd to strike quick on what Dave Lyon had tipped him off as being 'the line of the Orme'. He started working out the line to the right of Ocean on top rope and soon had it bolted and prepped for a redpoint. With the seasons fitness slightly on the wane all was not a formality but he topped out quicktime much to his delight. His belayer Calum Muskett got the 2nd ascent confirming the grade and quality. The route is equal in quality to its neighbour Ocean. When i checked the place out to get some footage i thought it was reminiscent of Ceuse's famous sector Demi Lune with Orange rock and amazing wall climbing. Unfortunately the season ran out before the masses could descend but it should be high on everyones list having some of th e best routes of their grade in the UK.
Stff Upper Lip Extension,8b,Pigeons Cave,Pete Robins
Pete brought George Smith's original vision of this line to its inevitable concluson by giving it the top out and a proper finish. The original route is amazing but the but the finish was somewhat abitary and unsatisfactory. Above an awkward clip off a man made slot was a superb boulder problem on amazing pinches and edges. This gave access to the top of the crag and was the full line. Pete found himself in a bit of a race for the FA with Lancashireman Jordan Buys. Pete got there but Jordan was hot on his heels for the 2nd ascent. SUPE is certainly one of the best 8b's in the area. I would rank it in the top 3 with The Brute and Melanchollie. The jury's still out on whether the original is 7c+ or 8a (its 7c+).
Dumpster Divers,8a+,The Diamond,Neil Dyer
Another old project that many a beast must have gazed at in the Rockfax. It wasn't going to hold out this year with man on a mission Neil Dyer on the warpath. Worthy of inclusion for the crux alone which is a massive dyno. This section of wall is not quite as awe inspiring as the meat to the right but it is still pretty damn impressive and like all the Diamond routes the climbing is sustained and amazing. Pete got the 2nd ascent shortly afterwards. Roll on next year!
For those who have noticed that this list is a bit elitist well it is but there were some excellent 6's put up also. Check out Chilly T 6c (Ty Newydd, Tony Shelmerdine), Vegas Nights 6c+ (The Tower,Dulas, Chris Doyle) and The Hunt 6c/+ (Craigiau Gigfran, Jon Ratcliffe)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8775939666069978069?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:clap2:
Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!
One small typo - alberta rose is to the left of ocean of emotion, not the right. Just in case someone goes to check it out during this heatwave we're experiencing.
-
I knew that, i'm normally ok with left and right ::)
-
:clap2:
Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!
seconded, just great to read. What are your plans with the footage?
-
Best New Routes of the Year (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/best-new-routes-of-year.html)
19 December 2011, 2:58 pm
He kept it chill, he continued not to warm up and one day in mid August he stuck that twatting move. I watched with baited breath from the Over The Moon crack as he negotiated the finishing moves. Nervously but solidly he topped out and shrieked: "Is it happening" (wait for the footage to hear this delightful quip).
:beer2: great stuff
-
Best New Routes of the Year (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/best-new-routes-of-year.html)
19 December 2011, 2:58 pm
He kept it chill, he continued not to warm up and one day in mid August he stuck that twatting move.
That should go in the guidebook for posterity. :thumbsup: Haha well done Neil.
-
:clap2:
Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!
seconded, just great to read. What are your plans with the footage?
I have a film in the pipeline about the new routes scene. Need to get more footage though and have been a bit lazy. Feeling insecure how every film now is super slick high def pro efforts and i'm still shaky, leg in shot, crappy software and kit! I'll get it done though
-
The majority of the recent films lack humour though - unlike West Coast Gimps :)
-
:clap2:
Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!
seconded, just great to read. What are your plans with the footage?
I have a film in the pipeline about the new routes scene. Need to get more footage though and have been a bit lazy. Feeling insecure how every film now is super slick high def pro efforts and i'm still shaky, leg in shot, crappy software and kit! I'll get it done though
nice one, get it done :whip: to be fair I don't even notice the quality difference when going from slick productions to the likes of consumed/shock of the new et al because the content is so relevant to me and my climbing. I would watch a feature length mobile phone video if it was of relatively local problems/routes that I've seen or I hope to do one day
that said life and hold appears to tick both the quality and content boxes, as does largers vids on the web.
-
Xmas Bouldering (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/xmas-bouldering.html)
29 December 2011, 10:10 am
The weather has been pretty terrible in these parts. You make big plans to boulder all winter but of course it rains all winter! So it's a case of grabbing those nice days and getting out when you can. Myself and Pete Harrison went on probably the most optimistic mission ever on Boxing Day as we drove through the wet hills to check out the new Craig-y-Lyn boulders (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=528). The left hand side of the face was wet but we managed to dry the holds so we could dispatch Voie Normale. This is a really cool powerful 7a+:
I got close on Abnormale which is a 7b+ variant but had to stop due to skin:
It is very similar in style and grade to Jack Daniels Connection on the box. I guess that probably is 7b+ after all. It was quite shocking how my skin was peeling off on both problems. I guess that's what you get for climbing outdoors twice in 6 weeks. The next day i hit Tremeirchion with a crew (Mr P, Pete R, Pete H and Owen). Everyone was suitably impressed and got stuck in. Pete R ticked 36 Chambers and got close on 22 Chambers (7c to the right):
This has a tricky finish using a shit pocket with an annoying twig in it and the low moves are really powerful. Probably a hard 7c which Pete didn't have enough steam to complete. Both really classic 7c's. Mr P did a traverse of the top wall at about 7a which was pretty cool:
Yesterday Danny C took me out to check out a sweet little project he's found. It is indeed pretty classic and there's another one to the left. Surely it's time for a comeback DC!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2767563461524630163?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Here we go again! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/here-we-go-again.html)
6 January 2012, 11:33 am
And it was going so well! I was really getting into the training groove until the sickness came. 3 weeks later and i'm still not back on it. I've been getting out a bit with the old conflict still ever present. I know i need to get indoors campussing, deadhanging and doing steep bouldering but i just love climbing outside so much i struggle with discipline. It's a simple choice, meander along at the same level on the routes again this year or put some hard work in now and hopefully climb a bit harder come summer. Ramon says to get really strong you need to climb indoors. I'm inclined to agree with him. I know plenty of people who climb amazingly without training but are they really fulfilling their potential? They're happy so it doesn't matter but you need to train to get the best out of yourself in any sport. Imagine if Neil Dyer went over to Spain and spent a winter with the beast coaches over there. It's a scary thought. His training for next year consists of 'not actually going climbing ever'. But you know he'll be awesome again next year! Well i know i need to get to work. I went to Porth Ysgo yesterday with Mr P, baby Dave and big Tim. I forget what an amazing place it is as i tend to go once every few years. It is the best bouldering crag in Wales without doubt and such a pretty place to boot. It is a sign of a good crag when the warm ups are just as good as the harder problems. Dave bagged a few FAs (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545), the crag that keeps on giving. One of my objectives for the day was Truth, a cool little 7b arete that i'd never done:
I got to within millimetres of the ledge quite quickly and then proceeded to go backwards on it to the point of surrender. I let the holds cool down and had one more go and did it much to my relief. We then played around on Anaconda which is a stellar 7c:
Mr P on the slightly flawed Higginson Scar RH 7a:
I had a quick look at Dolly Rocker which is a very cool little arete which goes at 8a or thereabouts. One to go back for if i'm ever going well.
Some development has been going on at a limestone crag x. It's a good addition and i'm quite inspired by a big traverse. Quite miss sideways shuffling it's been a while. 10 out of my 12 hardest problems are shuffles, will be good to get involved again.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3890615622235059956?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Mint Mountains (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/mint-mountains.html)
17 January 2012, 5:20 pm
After the ysgo i had to go to Sheff for 5 days to take care of some business. I don't really like the standard climbing wall scene. I only want to go inside to increase my basic strength and most walls are more interested in fun climbing and proper training facilities are often a bit shite despite the massive space at their disposal. This is fine but i'm not bothered about training my technique on plastic. I thought the best bet was the Foundry, last time i had tried to climb on the Works Beastmaker board. This has very nice handholds but i didn't like the foothold situation i.e they were too small and not enough of them. Mawson told me that they'd stuck some more on so i thought i'd give it another go. A few people have told me they find it hard to train properly at the Works because they generally know so many people in there and so end up making small talk and trying not to be rude. I know what they mean now! It was good chatting to folk i hadn't seen for ages but it is quite time consuming. Anyway the footholds made all the difference to the board and although the range of stuff you can do on there is still a bit limited it is a good board and undoubtedly awesome for finger strength and body tension.
Back in Wales we have finally had some proper winter bouldering weather. Driving down to Nant Gwynant i was feeling pretty inspired. Beautifully lit valleys, frost on the ground, no wind,lots of sun and just about t shirt temps. Wish it was like this more often! I took Gorgy down to Craig y Lyn. He had a do on Voie Normale and i finished off Abnormale 7b+. Last time thin skin had stopped me and this time it was fine after a few goes figuring out the technique for the jump. One helluva move! We then went to the Bustach via some shit parking beta from me. Muddy fields, wading through freezing river and stuck car once again. I wanted to try Sick Happy sds but it was wet so just did the 7a stand again (great problem!). The sitter seems very butch, i'm not sure its my bag really. Back in Gorgy's garage tonight. Last time i was there i said 'i think i'm coming down with something'. Two weeks of hell ensued. The priority now is finger strength, this is massively important for hard sport climbing in Britain so i need to get cracking. Would love to get close to my old crimping abilities when i was a youth. Wood and deadhangs barring any global disasters.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7650323892754366940?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Ruthin Escarpment (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/ruthin-escarpment.html)
19 January 2012, 5:09 pm
Last winter when we were developing Dyserth etc..Clwyd guru and tallest man in North Wales Lee Proctor was giving Ruthin escarpment a makeover. He sent me some pics of a new buttress where he'd done some short routes and which he reckoned might have some bouldering potential. I popped up in early summer with Spidey and we did some of the routes. We did a immaculate little 7a up there and i failed on the 7b (punt). I was keen for the bouldering but wasn't in bouldering mode so i decided to save it for winter. Owen Mcshane and friends beat me to it and did some cool stuff. I finally made it up recently and it turned out to be really good. I went back the next day with a possee and soon the place was nicely developed. Even local Danny C came out and bagged the problem of the crag which took a stand up line with a highball top out (Another Million). I was keen for the big traverse and managed to bag the first section to an obvious jug. This was dead cool and i called it One in a Million and graded it 7b (turns out my illness had cocked up my gradeometer and 7a+ was right for it). The other week Jamie Skates bagged the last bolted line on the crag (Sting Like a Bee 7c). Lee has also rebolted the two main routes section of the crag and there is a new buttress beyond Butterfly Butress with some 6's. You can find the routes on the UKC database. Topo (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550)
Lee on his own problem/route Fritillary Flake Fb6a+, F6c:
Military operation coordinated by Gav:
Gav on what was to become Another Million 7b:
Mr P on what was to become One in a Million 7a+:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9176200804329821348?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Orme Bouldering Bits (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/orme-bouldering-bits.html)
21 January 2012, 11:01 am
Pete Robins has done a couple of new problems on the top of the Orme recently. First up was a coolF8a traverse (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=544) on the lower grade sunny walls over on West Shore side above the road. Pete also ticked off an old project on a little area that Mr P and friends had visited a few years ago. The Bottom Billion (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=542) climbs out from a break through a small roof and up to another break via some sharp crimps. I went and did it yesterday and it is cool if a little sharp on soft skin. Anything with a edge that you have to bone is going through my tip at the moment. To the left is a equually good problem if not a little nicer. This was put up by Jon Ratcliffe back in the day with Mr P. It uses a nice sidepull pinch and some rough crozzly slopes and felt about 6c+ to me. All in all some nice new additions! Can't wait for the guide. The committee has been overseesing the graded lists for each area and there is indeed a lot of stuff these days. And lots and lots of hard problems. It should be colossal!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3601363943246200436?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I Hate Sharp Jugs (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/i-hate-sharp-jugs.html)
24 January 2012, 11:14 am
I fuckin hate sharp jugs, a jug never needs to be sharp. My fingers are in bits after the last few days climbing:
Spurred on by this news report (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=549) i trekked back up to the George's crack hillside in Ogwen. We went up to Lily Savage area, i was keen to look upon it with fresh eyes. Just underneath LS is Paul O Grady, a stunning arete bizzarely overlooked by locals. It took Ben Farley and Mick Adams to do the Stand up and Sit Start a couple of years ago. It was really gusty and pretty cold. Mr P walked up but coulnd't take the pace and bailed straight away (i hear you feel the cold more in old age). I did the stand which is 6c+, it felt amazing, lovely holds and great body positions. I worked the sitter (7b) and eventually figured out a sequence and dispatched it. It's the best 7b i've done in Wales and has all the ingredients of a classic problem in my eyes. Gorgeous holds, great line and importantly there is nothing nasty about it. When i got home i thought about the best 7b's in Wales and came to the conclusion that it is a fairly weak grade for top draw quality. I would certainly rank Paul O Grady at the top. I then started working Lily Savage. This is regarded as a classic 7b of Wales and certainly the line and moves to justify it. Unfortunately the first slopey ledge has a razor sharp edge which took chunks off my hands slapping for it and later cut my leg heel hooking on it. This puts a dampner on it for me, i fell off the end and didn't have time for another go.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8470148228760493958?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I Hate Sharp Jugs (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/01/i-hate-sharp-jugs.html)
24 January 2012, 11:14 am
I then started working Lily Savage.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
Brilliant.
-
Dismay in the Hills (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/dismay-in-hills.html)
1 February 2012, 9:17 pm
The last few days climbing outside before today were hard going. I struggled on everything i tried and started to feel a bit flat. First up was another spanking on Weirdo 7c on the Little Orme. I finally found a sequence for the stand up moves but then the foothold fell off and that was that. On Saturday me and Dan K headed to Tan-y-Grisiau to meet up with Mr P, Spidey and Dyer and Robins. We messed about on New Noise for a bit checking out the new sequence. I knew there was a new hold but didn't realise that it was such a different sequence. It's 7c+ with the pinch out right apparently. Floppy's undercut method is desperate to be fair and even Dan struggled to get off the ground. It's impressive that Chris managed to lap it for Welsh Connections. Then we went down to Flick of the Wrist 7c which i was hoping i might be able to do now. Pete and Neil had both dropped the top and weirdly they both continued to do so and didn't manage it. The crux is off a wide pinch, this is my weakest grip and i soon realised i was just not strong on the hold and it was game over. Dissapointing but Neil and Pete made me feel a bit better by failing with me. Dan got it in a couple of goes, he like the 2D! On the way back we stopped at Rhiw Goch and tried Nazguls Traverse which is an extremely powerful 7c. Dan pissed it again and it was the usual story for me although i did do it from the crux to the end. As one load of Sheffielders left my flat a few more arrived in the shape of Bob Hickish and Chris Lockyer. We headed straight for the Pass and hiked up to Lizard King. It was bitterly bitterly cold. Luckily there was only a slight breeze, any more would have made it too cold to climb. After warming up on the technical Peter's Crack 6c+ me and Bob went to work on LK. I was keen to try the 7c version which uses the slopey arete to the left to finish. Bob did the moves with a massive span, he makes me feel short that guy!
I couldn't do it and the original method off the pinch seemed more feasible. Must go back when it's a bit warmer. I've also got a couple of projects that i've found in the hills which i'm really keen for but they're a bit beyond me at the moment. One is very steep and requires undercut power. I drove straight to Gorgys and he got me doing some bicep work so hopefully i'll see the benefits soon. After 3 days of failures i needed a boost. Today i headed up to Craftnant with Bob and Chris. I had a great day here before Xmas and today it was just magical up there. The rock was totally prime and it was sunny and crisp. I had been excited to try Special K (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=476) since hearing of the English raiders raving about it last year. I wanted to save it for Winter so i would have something exciting to try. Myself and Bob worked it out pretty sharpish and he dispatched. After a bit more tweaking i followed suit and sat on top buzzing about what an amazing problem it is and how i love that style. It has amazing holds (especially the flat rail), the line is very cool and the moves are excellent. It wouldn't be out of place in Switzerland. I can't for the life of me comprehend how this problem is two grades harder than Wonderwall though, personally i think it's the other way round. Wonderwall has such smaller holds and harder moves. Special K is my perfect style though, Nodder's most stellar FA i'd say! It is surely one of the most classic single boulders in Wales. Wonderwall Arete 6c+, Wonderwall, Riley's Arete (we warmed up on this, brilliant) 7a, My Own Private Idaho 8b, Cruella 7b/+ and Special K, mega!
Rileys Arete:
Chris ticked Cruella then Hickish pulled out an ascent of his cousins problem Grasswind as the light faded. I find it so much easier to perform well on days like this. You walk up to the crag feeling inspired and it stays with you for the day.
Special K:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1784446042150982179?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Inspiring read Doylo, sounds like some cool locations and problems.
-
yes not half bad!
-
Ruthin Footage (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/ruthin-footage.html)
5 February 2012, 3:52 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3717246988402380427?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
More Hills (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/more-hills.html)
9 February 2012, 11:00 am
We've had some more fantastic weather and more teams have been descending on the hills. It's been a great scene with everyone motivated and keen to take advantage of the amazing conditions. NWB.com has been in overload, i can't remember so much frenzied activity on it for years. I've been reminded of how much good stuff there is, there are so many smaller areas. You can hit a couple of venues up in a day targeting specific problems. Everywhere you go the rock is different and there are problems of all styles to go at. I haven't trained for weeks, i'm just so motivated to get outside and plus i have been feeling my elbow affliction from the end of last year rearing it's ugly head. Getting it once was pretty bad but to feel it coming back after a significant period of time is very worrying. My sister is a physio which is very handy so hopefully i'll get a diagnosis when i see her and then i will know how to combat it. I've been doing loads of mid grade problems in the last week, many of which i've done before yonks ago. It's definitely more fun than seiging one problem but then we all get drawn back to the stuff at our limit eventually. I went down the ultimate marmite crag Angel Bay for a few hours and did a stellar problem on lush slopes called Spectrum. It gets 7a+ but i wouldn't argue with 7b. I can confirm Manchester Dogs is finished, the start is completely smashed in. On the subject of problems changing the lower hold on Bus Stop in the Pass has got bigger making Bus Stop 7b and Mr Fantastic soft 8a. It still won't help me as i struggle with the shoulder moves and the high foot. I had a day of low psyche in the Pass (it's so dark and cold there) so Mr P rescued me and we went back to Clogwyn y Bustach. Still a bit wet but i made progress on Sick Happy sit, should go when it's dry. Yesterday i went to Rhiw Goch with Jimmy Big Guns, Mr P and Emma Twyford (who is now resident in Llanberis). We warmed up on a couple of nice lines on the main crag and then hit the 50 degree steepness.
Mr P on a 5+ start to a route:
I love this place, it's like a board but outside. Jim and Emma cleaned up the crag classic Moria (soft 7b prob) and i did White Rider, Ride the Wild Smurf and also repeated Moria.
Emma on Moria:
Floppy's 8a+ dyno is an amazing move and could really do with a repeat (come on beasts). I got close to my nemesis Nazgul's Traverse but we had to leave to walk up that horrible hill to the Mallory Boulder where we met Nodder. God i hate that walk, i forgot how shit it is. Dave was trying Will, the grade is still up in the air for this one but it seems very hard for 7c+ to me. I think it's only been done by Huffy, Ned and Mason and they're all monsters. It's a superb problem with a nails first move. I repeated Barking Direct and the Crack and we tried Cosmic Wheels 7c. This is a Nodder classic that I did in 2004 with Huffy, i managed the moves again but fingers were giving up.
Cosmic Wheels:
Will into the Crack is still and unclimbed link which will definitely be 8a. I'm sore today but buzzing off all the great days out. I'm a self employed subcontactor which means i have to be pro active in finding work. Sunny days are not condusive to this however but i can't keep on driving into the hills every day. Got to be responsible occasionally!
Pisshead:
The next front cover of the bouldering guide:
Mark Reeves film Amateur Hardcore is really good for getting beta and its great to see Robins when he was fat sketching on a 7b.
Amateur Hardcore (http://vimeo.com/2779133) from mark reeves (http://vimeo.com/user1063897) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Nodder has produced a list of the 8b's on the Orme on his blog. There is also a list of the hardest problems in the hills. Check it here (http://www.davenoden.blogspot.com/p/hardest-on-orme.html)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6610571899366618331?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I am well jealous of all this pristine conditions rock scaling going on in the hills! Nice photos Chris. Nodder's post has got me massively psyched for the cave again though :slap:
-
Get a life Crouchy, theres so many cool problems you havent done. But i guess theres nothing like climbing into Rockatrocity.... :wall: ;D
-
Get a life Crouchy, theres so many cool problems you havent done. But i guess theres nothing like climbing into Rockatrocity.... :wall: ;D
mothafucka Doylo!!!
;D
I can totally identify with the Crouch here.
-
Louis Armstrong for Robins (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/louis-armstrong-for-robins.html)
12 February 2012, 6:42 pm
Pete Robins did his fourth 8b in Parisellas Cave yesterday. Louis Armstrong is known as the bloc testpiece of the Cave despite the fact that it is still 12 or so moves long. It is certainly a sought after testpiece. This surely makes Pete the indisputed King of the Cave, he just needs to repeat Pilgrimage now to seal the deal. The FA for those who haven't seen it:
I ticked an old nemesis of mine known as Nazguls Traverse, quite a butch 7c. I also made progress on a project line at same crag which should hopefully go down. I think i can do it anyway. Today me, Mr P and Gav went to Pantymywn in search of dry rock but it was all gopped out with the temperature increase so we headed to Ruthin where Lee and co were getting stuck in. Most of it was pretty dry so we got cracking. Lee managed to repeat Sting Like a Bee (new 7c route) which he'd had a few sessions on. I managed to flash it for my first route of the year and my first 7c flash in Britain. It's essentially roped bouldering but pretty cool. I finished off the 7b to the left which is also very good, i had failed on it during a shit spell last year. 5 days off to grow some much needed skin now!
I was pretty dismayed to find someone hasd stolen the pad i stashed at Butterfly Buttress. I hope the cunt falls off and misses it and smashes their skull to pieces.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3023347365381888436?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Has Nazgul's gone up to 7C? I thought I saw it given 7B in a video somewhere. Also you've had a do on the sitter to 36 Chambers haven't you? I was just wondering what your sequence was? I had a go the other day and came up with a pretty steady sequence apart from the last move into the stand crossing over to the sharp right hand crimp from a poor sidepull which I found pretty hard!
-
I'm pretty sure Nazguls gets 7c in my youtube clip.Mule gave it 7b+ originally but even he says it was prob 7c+ the way he did the crux with feet on smears. It seemed pretty stiff to me,certainly another league to special k. The low start to ride the wild smurf has a great sequence at 7c+ also. I havent done 36 chambers sit but I ve worked it with this sequence-backhand big tufa with right up to left hand pinch hold with left right heel behind tufa.I get a shitty intermediate with right then hard move to the Sharp starting hold of the stand then work your feet out left and rock into the other starting hold on the stand.Danny did it with a right back foot on the tufa instead of my heel.quite an impressive span for dan.awesome problem and surely 8a.That's made me keen to go back now!
-
Orme Beaches (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/orme-beaches.html)
20 February 2012, 11:13 am
I stayed local this weekend and headed down to some beachside bouldering on the Greatest Orme. Me and Gav went down to West Shore on Saturday. It was good to go down in bouldering season, it gets the sun all day so can be a bit hot in summer. After a nice warm up circuit we parked the pads under one of Mules new classics. I Am the Walrus is a very cool overhanging arete and was given 7b+ by the dog. When you first walk above it it just looks like a greasy little problem. Gav was dismissive! A bit of chalk and a close up look and it soon reveals itself as a mini classic with brilliant moves and holds. The crux is matching a amazing slopey rail at the lip and we soon had it done to here. A bit of Foster body positioning magic reduced the crux to a stable move and it was game on. I managed to dispatch and Gav got to the crux but forgot his own beta. He doesn't get out much so his lack of session fitness prevented him finishing it which was a shame:
There are probably a dozen or so worthwhile problems down here but i guess people will keep away until it's all documented in the guide. I'm certainly looking forward to see how some beasts get on on Mules problem The Spray (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=507) which looks a serious boulder problem. Yesterday i headed down to Pigeons beach boulders with Mr P and Neil Dyer. I hadn't been there for many years and wanted to check out an old Paul Higginson problem that was in the guide as 7b+. From memory it was very cool but i never heard of anyone ever doing it. I pulled up outside the Cave but luckily i managed not to peer in and i had my crucifix to hand to keep away the evil Cave sprits. I'm doing quite well resisting its charms. Down Pigeons things were a bit damp to start with but it soon dried out. I warmed up and started to try and work out Higg's fossil overhang. The problem blasts straight up a steep wall from a sitter. There are many possible sequences and holds so i spent absolutely ages trying many different methods. Dyer joined me and worked out his own sequence which consisted of two big moves at the end:
He managed to despatch it and i eventually figured out a direct crimpy method avoiding the two slopey pinches in the middle but alas it was too late as the wad had been shot from the shaft. I would say it's one of the best problems on the Orme, it really is very good. Nodder (who had just ticked Halfway House, effort) later told me that Katzy had flashed it years ago and downgraded it. This is a great effort considering how many holds there are to choose from. I think 7c is fair though. Neil went round to do a classic looking 7a+ on one of the other boulders. Mr P and I prepared ourselves for the inevitable flash but 7 goes later and he still hadn't topped out. We'd never seen this before, he normally flashes most things up to 7b+! So perhaps a bit of a sandbag that one, very classic though. Even more shocking news though is that he has started training. This could have repercussions on a global scale. Later i put a picture of the 7c on Facebook and Paul Higginson commented that he couldn't remember what he called it. Ducko suggested Fourteen Years Later and he decided to go with that. Such a good problem certainly deserves a name. Some footage:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1670694829953806210?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New Cave Links (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/new-cave-links.html)
1 March 2012, 10:12 am
A couple of hard new links have been done in Parisellas. Dave 'king of kneebars' Noden has got to grips with the knees on Trigger Cut and armed with a Five Ten kneepad has been climbing into it from all over the place. Broken Heart into TC is a link that i put some time into. On one mutant go i got into the shothole but was powered out to the max. It's not a king line but the climbing is quality. Nodder reckoned soft 8a+ for him. Ben Bransby has climbed Bonnatrocity (Rockatrocity into Bonnie). Liam Desroy managed RA into Clyde a few years ago so this is another obvious stepping stone to cave completeness. The grade is 8b, nice one Ben.
I've just returned from a bit of a road trip to far flung corners on this fair isle (well not quite!). The Mule turned 30 so i went to his party in Sheffield. It was a good, someone got set on fire. Standard really. I went to check out Mick Adam's limestone venue Anston Stones near the M1. I went with Pascal and Neil J Inspector Mawson. The boys gave me the tour, i was impressed. Good limestone with some very nice looking problems. I did a 7b called Alpha and started trying Black Crow, a 7c+ that i had been immediately drawn too. I got it in two and started redpointing. I could of done it a couple of goes but wasn't clinical enough on the crux. I hate that, there's no reason in the world why you can't grab the hold apart from your own mental resilience. A fat Ondra would have crushed it no problem! One hold became too painful and that was that. I messed about on some other stuff and watched everyone lapping Dark Art (8a).
Dark Art 8a
Resonate 7c
Black Crow
The next day despite minimal sleep i headed to Stanage (shock horror!). I lived in Sheffield for 4 years but never really got to grips with the grit. The pebbles/ smear scene ain't my scene! The one thing i've always wanted to do though is Brad Pit. This is surely the most iconic boulder problem in the UK. When i started climbing i used to watch Hard Grit quite a bit and remember reading about it in OTE. When i lived in Sheff it was still a bit of a hallowed tick and consequently i didn't put any effort into it. However the aura has been broken slightly as it gets done all the time now and is regarded as 7c. No reason not to get involved then. I headed to Brass Monkeys first but felt a bit timid on my own so went to the Pit. It literally took me 20 minutes to get my heel on (note to self, felxibility is now awful). I did the first move a few times but my heel kept ripping. I need to try it with another shoe i think. Rich Sharpe and Micky P came to help me. I haven't really seen Micky since we were holed up in a Swiss chalet in 2008. It's been great hearing about him going from strength to strength and flying the flag abroad. I packed it in and set off home, i checked to see if anyone was trying Brass Monkeys and sure enough there were some hombres giving it a whirl. On previous attempts i could never hold the swing with the crimp but that damn useful thing the internet had revealed another method and it was fine like this, 7b+ max. After a rest i headed up to Newcastle to see family. I had a spare few hours and wanted to try The Yorkshireman so headed to Kyloe In. On picking up 2 strapped together pads i pulled something in my arm. Hmm not a good sign. Anyway it was the hottest day of the year and the wood has condensed. I went to Bowden climbed about a bit, got stuck into V Crimps but couldn't hold the cut loose from the start. Lovely day and great crag, take a guide next time. I popped into the Bowderstone on the way home but felt beat before i'd even pulled on. I did Slapstick and Picnic and messed about on some harder stuff and that was that. I'd love to come here when i'm going well some day.
I feel pretty beat up now mentally and physically, i'm going to take more rest. Bouldering season has been really fun and i've done some really nice problems. I have been getting a bit frustrated of late as its dawned on me that i can't hit top form at 12 stone. I know theres a beast in there, it's just he's concealed under 12 pounds of sweaty blubber. I need to stick to the plan though and save the weight loss for routes season. It'll all be worth it!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6888252702110820369?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Fluke Day (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/fluke-day.html)
4 March 2012, 8:29 pm
Today i had one of those surprising days that come around every once and a while in rock climbing. I'd been feeling shit since those days in the Peak. Heavy, tired and tweaky, like a big sack of battered spuds. After a few rest days i headed down Pigeons with Mr P, Jack the Ratt and Bob the Hitman i've got a 8 and a half incher Hickish. I wanted to do Fourteen Years Later but the tide was coming in so we messed about at the other end of the beach. After trying a project we got stuck into an excellent boulder developed by the scousers (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=475) a few years ago. There is a really good 7a and 7a+ with really nice holds, well worth going down for. I'd strained my forearm pulling on in the Cave on a jug and was feeling pretty shoddy in general.
Jack on In the Mix 7a:
Today i ended up in the Cave on a social and thought i'd give the place a shot. I've been saving it for beastlier times but i was intrigued to play about on a few of my projects. I did some moves on Pilgrim and then pulled on a few moves into Lou Ferrino and got right through the hard moves on Broken Heart. Blimey that felt steady i thought i might go from the start! So i did and got to my highpoint from last September, slapping the finger jug after the undercut. Surprising mutant days like this have happened before and they are normally a one off but boy it felt good slapping through those roofs. Trigger Cut was easy first go and that was that. I might be shit next time, i might not but it gives me hope that i might get a tick in there this year. Pete nearly did Clyde with a typical heel hook manouvre that not many people could do. The Hick was trying Pilgrim, Sparky Left Wall High, Katzy was playing on Directors. Its mint in there at the moment, perfect temps and dry, go get it!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7501763310495634422?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Routes Season!? (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/routes-season.html)
9 March 2012, 12:53 pm
There has been some early season action going down on LPT. Spring is almost with us and luckily for us in Wales we don't need to wait til June for the crags to dry out. Most of them are good to go! Caff did Walking Mussel the other day, he'd had a look at it once or twice before but got it quicksharp on redpoint. I went down yesterday to join in the fun. My main goal for the year is to go up a sport grade. I did Melanchollie 8b back in 2004, then bouldered for a few years and struggled to do any more tricky routes. Essentially i had punched above my weight and took advantage of being a skinny strong fingered youth. My all round sport climbing has improved in recent years and after i did my 8b in Dyserth last year i realised that i needed to raise the bar this year. There aren't too many 8b+'s to choose from in North Wales. Wild Youth/Youthanasia and Walking Mussel down LPT. I still think the Brute is 8b+ even though i just wasn't fit enough during those 2 years. And that's about it really! Walking Mussel is the obvious candidate for me. It's on LPT so easy to get belayers, is a great route and more bouldery than fitness. The beasts say it's soft for the grade so thats a bonus too. I've had a quick look at it before and so knew what to expect. The start is a cool Font 7a+ through a bulge which is followed by massive jugs. Then it's easy up to the main crux in the middle. The crux is reaching into a high undercut off a bony pinch and then matching the undercut is also tricky. The route then finishes up the finger crack of Over The Moon (this will probably be the crux for me!). First go up i didn't make much impression on it. I wasn't expecting to have much joy on the bony pinch as i wasn't convinced about my current finger strength. I couldn't even begin to do the standard dropknee method for the crux. I came down and belayed Caff. Caff has chosen Liquid Ambar as his next Orme project and so was keen to open his account on it. He was looking good on it sorting out the beta for most of the tricky bits. Interestingly he found the bit after the crux quite hard as he couldn't use the footholds that us taller climbers use. I'm sure he'll figure out some Caff trickery for it. I'm interested to see his progress on the route. I still find it criminal how little attention it's got over the years. Caff said tongue in cheek that if it takes him 10 days or less he'll call it 8c and 8c+ if it takes longer. I had another blast at WM and it all came together this time. I shunned the drop knee and kept straight on with right on the right. I was tickling the undercut and the match wasn't too bad either. Game on, bonza! It should be fine once i unstrap Rik Waller from my back. It certainly seems very easy for 8b+ but i'm sure it'll be a bitch to put together. Tommy is working Pas de Deux (99% 8a+). Emma was trying Over The Moon direct and Calum was on Mussel Beach. Let the season commence!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4392034044221906453?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Scorcio (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/scorcio.html)
25 March 2012, 9:05 pm
The last few weeks my foot was forced off the pedal by work in London. Of course i could have gone to a wall down there but i didn't know the way and i didn't want to spend my days hard earned wages! Two weeks shouldn't actually have too much affect strength wise and indeed i was ok in the Cave first day back. I've got 3 problems in there i really want to do and Broken Trigger is first up i think. It's a bit shorter than The Wire and Pilgrim and a good first choice as i'm not very fit. I'd gotten to the move to the crimp on Trigger Cut from the start a few times but it felt like a tricky move on the link. A few people have done TC recently with Nodder's kneebar for this move. I thought i couldn't do it originally but it is actually bomber and a big help on the link (don't ask what grade TC is now!!). Just need a good day on it now! Pete R was trying Pilgrimage, it's an obvious project for him in there as he's done most things. He's got an alternative sequence for the classic undercut move (which seems to be redundant these days!) and just needs to build up fitness on it. We then headed round to Pill Box as Pete wanted to try Katzy's unrepeated 8b route Corinthian Groove. It was his 5th day on it, he tried it 4 times last autumn, he reckons it could be the hardest 8b on the lime. Well they normally don't take him that long. I did Foolish Ghoulish, the 7b that Corinthian finishes up and got royally pumped. It's going to be a long road to get some stam! The route is brilliant, one of the best of its grade i've done on the Orme. Pete had no joy on the 8b and that was that. The next day i headed into the pass with Mr P, Floppy Chris and Gav for something a bit different. It was really hot, crazily so for March. We warmed up on the Pac Man boulders and then headed into the woods to try this (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=495). It is indeed a very nice problem but it felt too hot for the slopes. Chris and Gav tried a project to the right:
Pete having a quick go on Clutch 7c+:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8161789381861809240?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Has Corinthian Groove had a repeat yet? Donnelly has been on it recently and says he got on ok. Good to see my problem getting some attention recently! You do need cool conditions though to pull on.
-
Has Corinthian Groove had a repeat yet?
I could do the crux move on it ok, but found next move hard. Though Doyle might remember better. That sound right?
-
Nope 9 years old and unrepeated! Katzy the sport beast! :icon_beerchug: Ye Pete finds the next move the hardest too Sausage but i find the move to the crimp the crux. It depends on how you like the footholds i think. Danny Cattell fell off after reaching Foulish Ghoulish once or maybe even twice a few years ago. Total and utter punter!
-
Has Corinthian Groove had a repeat yet? Donnelly has been on it recently and says he got on ok. Good to see my problem getting some attention recently! You do need cool conditions though to pull on.
Prisoner of the Sun is great but not one for 22 degree heat :great:
-
Matt had a good first session on it last week. Seems to be suited to his style and stature. Got some good quality footage too which needs an edit in time.
-
Mywn (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/mywn.html)
30 March 2012, 5:20 pm
I went to Pantymywn after work on Tuesday night and was surprised to see the Under the Bridge wall in great condition. A couple of dry winters coupled with the cleaning efforts of Lee P, Jamie and John have sorted it out. Everyone must have looked at the bouldering potential of this wall but it's always been so greasy and moist it's never really taken off (barring Under the Bridge, Danny's excellent 7b+). Also the fence has been completely dismantled and there are now a couple of problems that were previously obscured by it. There is quite a bit to do on there with sit starts, link ups and not to mention some great up lines. Lee Proctor has done a new mini route called La Porte de l'Enfer. He did a right hand boulder problem to get to the first bolts but a more direct, quicker and easier start has since been found which shifts the grade from 7c to 7b+. I had a valiant flash attempt but Lee's sequence on the headwall was meant for 6ft 6 peeps and i didn't have the necessary beans to work out a different way. I sussed the moves and got it next go. It is a very fun little route with excellent moves throughout. I also did a potential new problem on the right hand side of the wall. It featured a crimpy start to a big move to a juggy horn. I latched jump after several goes and almost the obvious sit start from the left. The problem is about 7a and maybe a + or just hard for the grade from the sitter. If someone wants a potential 8a FA then the right to left traverse of the wall into Under the Bridge would be very spicey. It was packed round the corner at the main bouldering cave with Team Wrexham having it large. There has been a fire under the left hand side and Panty's down has got a bit harder. Also the block used for the sitters in the hole is wobbling a bit.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6186420633144716438?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Orme Love (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/orme-love.html)
5 April 2012, 5:53 pm
It was 22 degrees a week or two ago, today it was 4 degrees. What a topsy turvy country we live in! I've been spending a lot of time down the Orme (mainly in the Cave) and it's been great. Obviously i quite like the Orme so going there a lot is no hardship. I've had 2 more sessions on Walking Mussel. I've been up it about 6 times now and i'm dead chuffed with my progress. I find the two crux moves ok, going into the undercut and matching it but i've yet to do them from the awkward moves below. I think those two moves really fit me and i've got perfect feet positions sorted. I went down with Adam Jeeworth today, it was too cold really. Jee had a good onsight burn of Over The Moon Direct but was thwrawted by cold fingers. He found it too cold to redpoint it too but he's keen for a return when he gets back from his big holiday to Europe. Walking Mussel revolves around a crimpy pinch. There is a lot of stress on my index finger and today it felt pretty threatening. I wasn't sure how i was going to find the first bulge but it was fine, about font 7a/+. The climbing is easy up to the middle bulge so i could get to the crux move from the ground now. I just need a few percent more on the pinch. Some 3 finger deadhanging needed methinks! I've been loving the Cave this last few weeks too. I've been trying Nodder's new link Broken Trigger and have got to the shothole twice only to power out. The only thing stopping me from getting there most goes is the 2nd kneebar to get the undercut. Most goes i don't place it right and can't do the move so it's quite frustrating! I'm off to Sheff now to catch up with my old mucker Irish Si and do some climbing. I'm pretty to keen to do a bit more grit after watching Life on Hold (http://www.outcropfilms.com/shop-2), a great new bouldering film with some impressive ascents and insight into the new wave of highballing thats been going on in recent times. Good work chaps!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-439091053314212337?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Good shout on the wall traverse into UTB. Always thought about that but was always piss wet in various sections. A little foray I had was right of Under The Bridge. There's a very small crimp you make a long span to and some super gymnasic positioning required for a pop to the shothole. The vision being that the old bolted project line above could then be climbed. It'd be pretty tough I'm sure but you should take a look D.
-
Back to the Dull (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/back-to-dull.html)
13 April 2012, 10:08 am
I've got 2 new routes lined up for this year. I bolted both of them last year but didn't get chance to put much effort into them. One of them is a link up in the Main Cave at Llanddulas. I love going up to Dulas, there are no tidal or access considerations, it's a nice spot and it feels like a second home away from the Orme. I've seiged a new route in the main cave for the past two years and both routes were really fulfilling. The climbing is really funky and 3D, there's not much like it in North Wales. Last year i was up there with Ben Heason and he spotted the potential for linking up the two roof routes via an unclimbed horizontal section which looked like it might just have enough holds. One of the last things i did on a rope was to stick four bolts in the new section. I had a quick play with Pete R one day and was keen to return with fresh endeavour come the new year. I've been doing quite a bit in Parisellas recently and as i was feeling quite good in there i thought it was a good time to get back on the Dulas proj and try and work out the new section. I went up with Mules yesterday and clipsticked straight up to the start of the new climbing. I'd already done the first hard move last year but this time it felt pretty tough. I just about managed it and let Mule have a go, he thought it was pretty hard too. A bit disgruntled that the move didn't feel easier i pushed on hoping to crack the next moves. In the middle of the roof is a lovely slopey pod, getting it was the move that i'd struggled on but moving off it felt equally tricky, and then so did the next section. I had to remind myself that the first sessions on Temple and the Last Crusade were equally fruitless but then i just don't think there is as much potential for easier beta on this section of the roof. It's not just that the middle section is so tricky. You have to do 9 steep moves on the Last Crusade to get into it and when you reach Temple you have the redpoint crux of that to contend with. It's a meaty, inspiring piece of climbing. My best case scenario was that it would weigh in at soft 8b+ and i could complete it in time for the guide. After trying it again it feels significantly more meaty than any 8b+ i've been on. I tried Darwin Dixit in Margalef a few years ago, this is 8b+ (used to be 8c) and is also a roof. On this route every hold is a jug, they're just spaced apart. I think the Dulas thing might be 8c, i'm definitely not giving it away though, it's pretty inspiring and i live for inspiration.
Me and Mule finished off with some mileage. We're both so unfit, oh to be a stam jock. Mule was going to go up Tony Stud but noticed that someone has nicked the hanger off the one expansion bolt on the route. It really does make me despair how rock climbers would steal shitty little bits of metal off a rock climb. It's also been happening in Dyserth and Penmaenhead. If i ever see someone nicking insitu protection i'm going to steal there address from their wallet, go to their house and drive a iron stake up their wifes arse. Cunts!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6293841135058558108?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Walking Muss, Day 4 (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/walking-muss-day-4.html)
16 April 2012, 3:27 pm
Yesterday conditions were prime downstairs. The crag was packed with sport chuffers, it felt like the first proper weekend of the season. Fatty bum bum, man of the moment Alex Barrows had come over to try Walking Mussel and was on it again as we got down there. It was good to try it with someone else but it got quite tiresome having to constantly remind him that he was in Wales not Spain every time he complained about the moves being hard. It was worth him coming though as he told me to put 4 fingers on the crux hold instead of 3. The rock was so mint, i felt the best yet on the moves despite a poor warm up in the Cave. Second go up i just climbed from the floor and got to my crux which felt good. It was crunch time, however if i wanted to do this route i couldn't hide anymore, i had to try THE CRACK!!! So i pulled up the clipstick and tape and got involved. I had a vague sequence from last year but it felt too hard, eventually i worked out you have to stand on the smears instead of the jug and it started to come together. I very much doubt any of the previous ascentionists (Moon, Carson, Robins, Caff, Bransby, Dyer) fell off the crack but for me it is pretty much guaranteed. I'm going to need a fair few beans left to top out and it's only April and i've only done 7 routes! Serious stamina training needed! On the positive side the crack will only get easier the more you do it and at least it's the kind of thing you can fight on. Boy will i be fighting.
W Muss:
Keith topping out on Battle of the Parasites 7c+:
I was in Vegas today so i popped up to Waterfall for a look. I spent so many days there last year it was nice to be back. I wish someone would go and try the hard one! I want an opinion. Part of the cracked break on Meatsville Arizona has parted company with the crag but i think think it makes much difference(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5363795293682641541?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Louis Hamer (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/louis-hamer.html)
23 April 2012, 10:48 am
The Hamer bros were back on the Orme on Friday after a couple of year absence. The boy's used to be regulars as Sam was at Bangor uni. Ed did most things up to Font 8a+ on the Orme and Sam did lots of the routes including the tough 8b Melanchollie. Anyway Ed busted out Louis Armstrong, the 'short' 8b of Parisellas. This is obviously impressive but the time he did it in is the big news. This has been managed in a couple of days before by world class monsters Ty Landman, Micky Page and Nacho Sanchez (can't remember how long it took Malc, think slightly longer). I know Ty got in in 2 when he was beasting everything. I think it might have been 3 days for Micky?? Anyway bearing in mind that Ed had only been on it for 20 minutes 2 years ago this could be the quickest ascent and shows he can mingle with the top dogs. Consolodation seems to be Ed's approach to progression. He's been knocking on 8a+ boulder problems and 8b+ routes for years but if you've witnessed his beastliness you will know that this is only the begining. Sam ticked off the classic Masterclass 8a. Caff did Masterplan last week utilising a very very dirty hold to overcome the reachy crux. He got it 2nd RP.I've had 2 more days on Walking Mussel,on Tuesday i finally got my head round the crack. It's actually ok when you figure out the feet and after cursing it on the previous session i now think it's a pretty cool finish to the route. The key for me was to stand on a smear instead of the obvious jug. I almost linked from the crux to the lower off but i made a mistake after the hard bit on the crack. I wasn't too pumped and it gave me the confidence to start redpoints. On Saturday the crack was wet but i had two goes from the ground anyway. The 2nd go i tickled the undercut, hopefully i'll get the hold soon and then who knows how high i'll get. I'm struggling with having decent rests between goes becuase its still pretty cold and my fingers just cool down. This is bad news, i shouldn't be pulling on the crux pinch with cold fingers, it's dangerous. Hopefully it'll warm up soon. My form feels a bit confusing at the moment. I'm climbing pretty well in the Cave and on WM but i wouldn't say i feel anything special. I haven't had that light springy feeling for ages, i guess it suggest's theres more to come. Not a bad place to be i'd say.Pete checking out The Big Crunch:(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XE5Wd6vuSxQ/T5UxpS4CDAI/AAAAAAAABlQ/hO6FdGdlZfk/s320/b+crunch.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XE5Wd6vuSxQ/T5UxpS4CDAI/AAAAAAAABlQ/hO6FdGdlZfk/s1600/b+crunch.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2442695887489008818?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Colddddddddddddddd (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/04/colddddddddddddddd.html)
29 April 2012, 2:20 pm
I've just got in from the Cave. It was freezing, wet and windy like a true winter day and i couldn't get going at all. Caff was keen to hit LPT this morning and said he'd be in the Cave at 8.30 but when the forecast is that bad i struggle to be as optimistic as Caff. With talk of misplaced jet streams and cold predictions for May it doesn't feel like sport season despite everyone's efforts to get out there. I've had a couple more sessions on Walking Mussel but the temps really aren't helping with it being a bouldery route. For me it's imperative to have warm fingers on the crux pinch but obviously when you're climbing with someone else and they need a decent go on their route it's very easy to cool down. I need to go at least every 20 minutes so i either need to employ my own personal belayer or climb with someone else who is also redpointing. When it hits 10 degrees i usually abandon sport climbing for the year but because it's April i'm trying to get on with it. The first session was quite good and i really should have done the crux on the last go. Last Friday i went to Malham with Pete and Owen. They were keen for Obsession and i thought i'd try and tick it too but i felt awful warming up. I sketched up Rose Coronary, a very shortlived 7a and then we headed up to the upper tier. There was a bit of a queue for Obsession so i got on Toadall Recall, a route i had tried a few times over the years. It's better to fail on a 8a than a 7b+ i figured! Despite it being soft 8a i'd always struggled so i was surprised to fall just after the crux first redpoint. I knew i only had one more go. I find those routes so hard on the skin, they don't cut they bruise and it's soon too painful. Anyway i got through all the hard climbing next go but completely powered out and had to hang there and hope i'd get something back. I did and clawed my way to the top, a real fight but nice to get something done. Pete ticked Obsession which was his objective and another 7b+ for his pyramid. The tides are good but i'm working so won't be able to get down, balls!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4462163698471591507?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Awesome Mawsome (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/05/awesome-mawsome.html)
6 May 2012, 10:01 am
Awesome Inspector Mawson took a break from trying Rainshadow on Thursday and visited LPT to have a whirl on Walking Mussel. The Inspector is a very good climber. He's always been a stamina jock but he has got significant power gains from his training over winter. I thought he'd have a good chance of getting it in a session. It's not a very complicated route so if you're going well you've got every chance of doing it quickly. Anyway to cut a short story short he pissed it making perhaps the quickest ascent. The fact that he found the bottom bulge the hardest indicates how easy he found the crux. He said it was a bit similar to the crux of Rainshadow but that is font 7c+ as opposed to 7b+ on WM. It came as no surprise to me that he thought it was a gift for 8b+. It could be 8b though i would have thought one of the other guys would have downgraded it. I went back down to LPT yesterday after an enforced 9 day break from it. It definitely feels like a breach of human rights having to work when the tide is out. I was paranoid about feeling worse on it after the loss of momentum. I've not been doing any hardcore climbing or training in the meantime either. It was still too cold but i suspect folk are tired of me complaining about this so i'll pipe down. I had 4/5 redpoints and on the last one made the breakthrough and grabbed the undercut. I didn't quite wiggle into it well enough and fell off the match but i was happy. I'm having a bit of a different experience on this route. Normally after this many days on something this seeds of stress and frustration start to sprout. I feel none of this though, i just enjoy every go and feel dead relaxed. I think it's partly to do with the nature of the route and partly because my redpointing head feels good this year. I'm sure this will change if i fall off the crack for ten days though. Emma and Jim were trying Youthanasia. I've been going to LPT since the 90s and literally apart from Pete on Wild Youth and i think Keith Sharples once i've never seen anyone try it. This is really bizarre and criminal really. It looks brilliant! Pete said the top moves were some of the best on the crag. I guess Melanchollie is most people's preferred choice. I'd love to give it a go sometime. Jordan Buys has been in Wales over the weekend. I've always admired Jordan's enthusiasm. He just wants to go everywhere and climb everything, no matter how esoteric. He's another one who is doing good things on Rainshadow, good to see the boys trying to step it up. He went to Dyserth Waterfall yesterday and had a go on The Hole Truth, my route from last year. I sent him a message to get his verdict and he replied: "dirty, reachy and sharp but i liked it". My sentiments exactly i thought, this route is meat. He's keen to go back to finish it and Madness Reigns 8a.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7728307173235939141?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Triple Crown Quest (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/05/triple-crown-quest.html)
16 May 2012, 10:30 am
The Mayfair Wall triple crown consists of the three grade 8 routes: Masterplan, Masterclass and Oyster. Mayfair is a classic Welsh wall stooped in history with some of the best sport routes in the region. The triple crown is a good challenge as all three routes are completely different in style. Oyster is a short burly crack put up by Jerry Moffatt is 1983 and graded E4 6b!!! It gets 8a now, surely one of the biggest sandbags ever! I had a quick go a month ago and couldn't do the original shoulder press, such a hard move. I managed to work another sequence though so it should go. Masterclass is another Moffatt route from 1983 and was 7c+ for years. It used to get a fair few ascents back in the day when people used to train on brick edges. These days it doesn't get much attention is generally regarded as being nails. The start is nasty and sharp and the crux is unlikely and technical. It is quite cool in that it makes you do moves that seem inprobable. I guess it's a bit like slate in that respect. I've always got shutdown on it before but can do the moves now. At the start of the climb there is a big hollow flake which would likely slice through your rope if it came off on lead. I'm going to pull it off, i don't think it will affect the climb that much and i don't care as it definitely has the potential to kill someone! Masterplan is the newbie of the trio, it was put up by a handsome visionary in 2009. It definitely has the nicest climbing of the trio and is more modern/bouldery (and hence more popular than the other two). Difficulty wise there is not much between Masterplan and Masterclass (probably the difference between hard 8a and soft 8a+). As far as i know only Pete Robins and Neil Dyer have done all three. I spent my 30th birthday belaying Robins and my route The Hole Truth at Dyserth. I was intrigued to see how he'd find it as i'd never seen anyone else on it. I had worried that someone might be able to handjam up the hole and sure enough Pete did. It was hard getting into the jam though and he couldn't release it when he got to the lip. He spent ages messing about with it and causing himself pain. For me the really hard bit was getting into the Hole but Pete was steady on this and could go straight into the good part (Jordan said he could do this too). I guess thats the difference between 8b bouldering strength and 7c strength. Luckily for me he found the end tricky though and found the toehook to be quite low percentage. He was too boxed by the time he had it worked so will have to go back. It must be my hardest FA as he's done all the others 2nd go. Jordan turned up after we'd left and bagged the 2nd ascent on his second session, nice one la. I was down LPT yesterday thinking to myself what a strange pastime redpointing is. You go to the same place time after time, and just do exactly the same thing then go home and come back and do it again. Climbing up big cliffs seems to make sense but redpointing seems like a strange way to spend your life. Big up to Tommy who ended his seige on Pas de Deux!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7447787801814374175?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Bye Winter? (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/05/bye-winter.html)
22 May 2012, 8:59 pm
I really hope so, yes i will soon complain about the grease and the condensation but fuck it at least i won't be freezing my nuts off! I sat in the car today with the windows up and just baked like a crisp. God it was nice! I did some Mayfair wall descaling the other day. The big flake on the start on Masterclass came off with virtually no effort. I could have done it with my hands. Very scary to think of all the people who have hung off it over the years. It came off in one piece and is now wedged in the ground. I don't think it will affect the route much, there's quite a good foothold there now: probably 20 inches by 20 (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KIfv3mlLh60/T7v8qXNxqVI/AAAAAAAABmE/pUUZWZmzd6o/s320/masterclass+flake.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KIfv3mlLh60/T7v8qXNxqVI/AAAAAAAABmE/pUUZWZmzd6o/s1600/masterclass+flake.jpg) I also levered the big flake left of Contusion off in the name of crag safety. To repay me if someone could upgrade Masterplan to 8b+ i'd be much obliged. I haven't been on Walking Mussel for a week. I'm at the stage where i could get the undercut well next go and top out or i could fall off for another ten days. It's hard to improve on it really, improving means doing it. But then i might still fall off the dreaded crack! I'm in the midst of some viral affliction so have been taking it easy. I did a few routes at Penmaenhead yesterday, the sun really was too good to resist. I climbed on Expresseway Wall which i hadn't been back to since we developed it. I did my old kings hardest FA, The Quarrywomen (6c). I was quite impressed, good quality and a good lead from Mikey. It really is a little gem that crag. It is good stone and rock and there's loads to go at. Easy sport climbing in Wales pisses all over the Peak and Yorkshire for quality from what i've seen. Today i met up with Ben Bransby who was keen to check out Dulas. I was only 5 minutes late but the impatient git was doing some dodgy self belay manouvres up Ralarwdins: (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9yIjvuIR9jE/T7v33t4I66I/AAAAAAAABlo/OH25X41AZhs/s320/self+belayed.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9yIjvuIR9jE/T7v33t4I66I/AAAAAAAABlo/OH25X41AZhs/s1600/self+belayed.jpg)He told me he'd done Bat Route last week so obviously a man on form. I replaced the hanger that some cunt had nicked of Tony Stud and we headed up to the main cave. The place was a shit tip, some dickhead youths had been having a Carlsberg and Nik Nak orgy. Messy little twats. I bagged it up and took it when we left. Ben was keen for Last Crusade, he got most the way across the roof on the flash but was stopped by the sequency finish. I set off up Tony's atmospheric caving experience, Lord Nibbler. This route climbs up the gulley right of Last Crusade goes past that routes belay and up the wall to the finish of Zoidberg. Despite its modest grade i was a bit gripped as much of it involved back and footing between the two walls. Anyway it was great, a great experience for a 6b. People should do it more. I'm still glad i didn't finish Crusade up there though. Ben fell off the end on his next two goes. Despite my illness i got on my link up project. I'd been quite disheartened walking away from it last time. Every move on the new section felt nails! The beauty of these roofs though is that there is nearly always some hidden trickery. You've just got to put the time in and suss it out. I made good progress this time and at the end i was in the position where i could basically do all the hand moves but one but with a few feet manouvres still to sort out. There's two moves where my feet are so spanned after doing a big move left i can't release them without swinging off. I think/hope that i'll be able to sort this with some of my Parisellas accessories. The new section is only 7 hand moves but it's probably 8a condensed into 7 moves at a guess? The route is still a pipedream at the moment but it doesn't seem quite as far fetched after today. Inspiring and daunting in equal measure but so fuckin meaty you just gotta keep going. Ben got The Last Crusade on his 4th redpoint in the end. I think on his last go he could start to hear Pete Robins taunts in his head so realised he had to pull it out. Soon all the holds will be dry as will pigeons and t shirt in bed will be no more! yeee The longest clipstick at Waterfall: (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gMbYIyJuQgw/T7v75cXz7jI/AAAAAAAABl4/KqA1tHzNIR4/s320/clipstick.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gMbYIyJuQgw/T7v75cXz7jI/AAAAAAAABl4/KqA1tHzNIR4/s1600/clipstick.jpg) (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3894074966892317241?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
That is a mighty rod indeed!
-
The mighty stick of elders...
That took some clipping!
-
Wobbly Box Hold (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/wobbly-box-hold.html)
2 June 2012, 9:25 am
Just a heads up to anyone who is planning to head to the Pill Box in the next few days. I've taken the wobbly hold off (lower hold on start of Whisky Bitch/The Greek) and will be gluing it back on soon. The hold had become incresingly wobbly to the point where i was worried that someone might pull it off whilst climbing. Chances are the pieces would have been lost or the hold could have obliterated. So i made the decision to take it off in control to give it the best chance of a long and stable future. The good news is it is stable underneath so i should be able to stick it back together no bother. Well that's if i can remember which bit goes where! (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W7fYYVq-A_M/T8nbVYRVnzI/AAAAAAAABmU/nvsHDlwIaJ0/s320/hold.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W7fYYVq-A_M/T8nbVYRVnzI/AAAAAAAABmU/nvsHDlwIaJ0/s1600/hold.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4682118416443237878?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Legend (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/legend.html)
6 June 2012, 4:21 pm
The heatwave is over and indifferent British summer weather seems to be here! I've had a indifferent time of things in the last few weeks. Until the other day i hadn't been on Walking Mussel for 17 days, not the way to keep momentum going. I was surprised how good i felt on it considering. Me and Tommy did a couple of forgotten routes on the upper drive by Cold War. Both routes were climbed in 99. Utter from The Gutter 7c was put up by Kristian Klemmow and Tony Shelmerdine did Ivor Bigum 7b+ to the left. They're both worthwhile, i managed to flash Utter and would say probably 7b+ for the tall but a nice route. There are half a dozen routes beyond Black Wall that are unbanned and have been re-equipped by Tony. They seem decent and go up to about 7a. I've just glued the hold on Pill Box back on. It was actually quite a tricky operation. There were 3 parts that had to be glued on seperately and i kept forgetting how they fitted in. Luckily the resin was a similar colour to the rock and so it seems to be blended in ok. I got the hold configuration sorted eventually and am quite pleased with the finish. Hopefully this will now be a long term solution to an ever threatening problem. I met this guy for the first time in 3 years: The legend Huffy, who left his mark in Wales and beyond. He doesn't really climb much now but still got to the shothole on Trigger Cut. He fell off here on Directors back in the day. Once a monster always a monster! The Huff: (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N_ZfNosVUfI/T8933lfXWhI/AAAAAAAABmk/sU1UtW0Rotg/s320/huff.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N_ZfNosVUfI/T8933lfXWhI/AAAAAAAABmk/sU1UtW0Rotg/s1600/huff.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1401890207590156723?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Arghh (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/arghh.html)
11 June 2012, 7:47 pm
Redpointing sucks! Well sometimes.... After being on redpoint on day 4 of Walking Mussel and falling off the crux i thought it would be a speedy tick. 10 days later and i'm still falling off that same move (a little more convincingly of course). I've done the move four times and dropped the next hard move. I guess i just need to accept that that is the nature of this route. It's basically two hard moves in the middle of the cliff and they are pretty damn easy to fall off. Today i was mainly annoyed because i felt shit after 2 days off. I guess i just need to think of Pete and Neil on Megalopa last year, they were in the same position but higher up the cliff and they managed to find the mental resilience. I could still do it next go.. it's just that it could take all year! Having 3 weeks off it hasn't helped. I think i'm quite stifled by lack of a decent tick but i've just not had many opportunities to get anything done. On the positive i got the flake on Pilgrim last week, a new highpoint. Which means i'll probably do the problem in about 2015. Alas i do despair! The Pill Box has been in vogue recently, even it's biggest critic David Noden has been going and forced to retract all the horrible, bitter things he has said over the years. There's a lot of linkage and problems to do there but the new stuff is barely documented so the new guide should point folk in the right direction. There's even a few more links for an old timer like me....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-670618907089503693?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Corinthian Groove 2nd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/corinthian-groove-2nd-ascent.html)
15 June 2012, 9:55 am
Corinthian Groove is a route on Chain Gang Wall that was first climbed by Mark Katz in 2003. At 8b it's the hardest route on the Upper Drive and it's seen off a few suitors over the years. The route starts up the classic font 7a+, Mr Whippy before tackling a very hard crux section and finishing up Fhoulish Ghoulish (prob about 7a+ to the top from there). Most notably Danny Cattell nearly repeated it a few years ago falling off the headwall off Fhoulish. He didn't have the top wired and is an unbelievable punt. The route started to acquire a bit of a repuation and it was only a matter of time before ticking machine Pete Robins gave it a blast. Despite being well within his grade Pete struggled on the last hard move and success wasn't forthcoming. Pete was convinced it was the hardest 8b in North Wales. Before a trip to the Frankenjura he finally discovered the key beta for the move he was struggling on. It was a heel!! (surprise surprise). He returned to finally complete the 2nd ascent last night. I think Katzy will be satisfied with how long it's held out. A great FA for the little man! Pics: (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0uZ1vmxnhl4/T9sD7fWUwsI/AAAAAAAABm0/6GL3yprNGAs/s320/carinthian2.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0uZ1vmxnhl4/T9sD7fWUwsI/AAAAAAAABm0/6GL3yprNGAs/s1600/carinthian2.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fmsAv_ptY8Q/T9sEjvpL7QI/AAAAAAAABnA/C_MqIQTtKBU/s320/crinthian3.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fmsAv_ptY8Q/T9sEjvpL7QI/AAAAAAAABnA/C_MqIQTtKBU/s1600/crinthian3.JPG) After all the despair and pain and misery the good lord finally gave me a break yesterday on Walking Mussel. I finally had a breakthrough session and boy did i need it. First redpoint i got the undercut but something was different this time, i felt different and could have done the match. Second redpoint i did the match for the first time. It's a weird sensation when you find yourself a little higher up the route for the first time. You really have to focus and try and keep it together. After the match is another tricky move off a backhand. It always feels a little tricky but it's not that hard really. I was reaching up for the good undercut before the rest when my hand exploded off. Damnnnnn, pretty unlucky. I think it was probably a result of dampness on my fingers from the lower hold. I was over the moon to make progress and got the undercut 2 more times. Once again climbing picks you up when you need it. Instead of wanting to go home and sleep and eat cake i wanted to go home and train! I was buzzing off the endorphins all night. I wish it felt that good every time you went climbing!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2532623709093782701?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I was over the moon to make progress
:)
-
Ha glad you noticed the pun... ;)
-
Pill Box Graded List (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/pill-box-graded-list.html)
16 June 2012, 12:12 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nxu8zHpVLXI/T9uBBvFQPRI/AAAAAAAABnQ/kAPFFeSMV-w/s320/drink+driving.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nxu8zHpVLXI/T9uBBvFQPRI/AAAAAAAABnQ/kAPFFeSMV-w/s1600/drink+driving.jpg)
I haven't really climbed much on the box since 2009 but Nodder's recent interest has resulted in me having a few sessions there and i've been reminded about how cool it is. I used to go there so much and its been great doing some of the classics again. Some of the grades have shifted a bit as things have got repeated so i thought i'd blog about these changes and hopefully some more folk will get keen. Its such a good angle and the rock and the link up possibilities make it great training and a great place to get some ticks. More people climb Jack Daniels Connection these days and it appears the logical way to do it isn't my original 7b+ sequence. So this gets 7b now. There is also a easier way of climbing Ain't No Party when coming from the right so this affects the grades of Drink Driving/Ain't no Party (7b now) and Jack Daniels/Ain't no Party (7b+ now). Tommy repeated Millenium Party and thought 7c+ was fair. As Millenium Drive is a hard 7c in itself and this finish is slightly harder i'm inclined to agree. Pete Robins has done an eliminate between Chocolate Wall wwhich he has named Screwball (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=593). I had a quick go today but the high crimp was horrible on my index finger so i left it. No split tips please! I regret the Cypriot problems, they're pointless. Here is my list (attempted to put them in order of difficulty), hope i havent missed anything:
1. Johnny's Box Problem - 8b+ (ha ha)
2. Jack the Drunk - 8a+
3. Drink Driving - 8a+
4. Last Malteser - 8a
5. Malteser/Last Orders - 7c+
6. Millenium Party - 7c+
7. Cypriot/Ain't no Party - 7c+
8. Millenium Drive - 7c
9. Cypriot - WB - 7c
10. Jack the Greek - 7c
11. The Malteser - 7c
12. Last Rites Assis - 7c
13. Screwball - 7b+
14. Chris' Link - 7b+
15. Jack's Party - 7b+
16. Millenium Greek - 7b+
17. The Cypriot - 7b+
18. Last Rites - 7b+
19. Whisky Bitch sds - 7b+
20. Ain't No Party sds - 7b+
21. Original Party - 7b
22. Pill Thrill sds - 7b
23. Drive By - 7b
24. Chocolate Wall - 7b
25. Jack Daniels Connection - 7b
26. Les Bos/Last Orders - 7b
27. The Greek sds - 7b
28. Whisky Bitch - 7b
29. Mr Whippy - 7a+
30. Pill Thrill - 7a+
31. Flake 99 - 7a+
32. Ain't no Party Like a Pill Box Party - 7a+
33. Last Orders sds - 7a+
34. Pill Box Original - 7a
35. Where's my Hippo - 7a
36. The Greek - 7a
37. Last Orders - 7a
38. Les Bos - 6c+(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-211509634388857661?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The box is quality and blatantly under-regarded / over-looked in favour of the cave. If basic crimpy front-on board-style problems are your thing then look no further! I lost all psyche for the cave early this year but loved my sessions at the box doing the classics up to 7b. I don't think Whisky Bitch is 7b though unless Mr Whippy is too - I don't flash 7a+ but somehow WB succumbed. Maybe I'm just fucking awesome.
-
do you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo?
Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A?
-
malc's problem? nice list make a topo now dood!
-
... I don't think Whisky Bitch is 7b though unless Mr Whippy is too - I don't flash 7a+ but somehow WB succumbed. Maybe I'm just fucking awesome.
Maybe Whisky Bitch seems easier when you already know the starting moves from doing the greek? I agree it does feel easier than Mr.Whippy to me though.
-
Whisky Bitch is one of the few 7Bs I've flashed as well. Must be soft!
-
I always used to think 7a+ for WB but enough folk said 7b over the years that i just presumed i was a monster. It probably is 7a+ though, you reading this Mr P ;) Mr Whippy is the toughest 7a+ on the Orme
do you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo?
Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A?
i think if its the same grade however you do it (which it is) then theres no need to describe every method.
-
That day you showed me about Doylo I seem to remember thinking Mr Whippy was nails whilst at the same time you delighted in listing the names of people who had failed/agreed.
-
I ve seen it take some beasts a fair bit of effort and theres a certain local who's climbed 8b who can't do it!
-
I personally think whippy is easier than wb and I meant gaskins problem not malcs! Doh
-
I always used to think 7a+ for WB but enough folk said 7b over the years that i just presumed i was a monster. It probably is 7a+ though, you reading this Mr P ;) Mr Whippy is the toughest 7a+ on the Orme
do you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo?
Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A?
i think if its the same grade however you do it (which it is) then theres no need to describe every method.
I reckon WB is soft/steady 7B, Mr Whippy is hard 7A+ for the dyno method (I'm sure Nodder would agree if I showed him my beta), possibly 7B for the undercut method.
Chocolate Wall is nails for 7B - I've seen lots of good climbers, some very, very good (like Bransby) fail on this.
Katz reminded the other day that Clemmow actually called it Chocolate Dipper originally. Awful name but historically correct I suppose.
Has anybody repeated it using Clem's original sequence (i.e. using the sidepull straight above the niche)?
Oh, and I don't think Screwball (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=593 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=593)) is an eliminate; I would describe it as a tight line. There are other problems here that are less independant.
Good to see folk getting psyched about Pill Box - 5 years ago you couldn't drag people there.
And lastly can I just say again how good Ben Farley's Where's my Hippo is. A contender for the best 7A on the Ormes:
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Hippo%201%20600_1864.jpg)
-
I always used to think 7a+ for WB but enough folk said 7b over the years that i just presumed i was a monster. It probably is 7a+ though, you reading this Mr P ;) Mr Whippy is the toughest 7a+ on the Orme
do you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo?
Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A?
i think if its the same grade however you do it (which it is) then theres no need to describe every method.
I reckon WB is soft/steady 7B, Mr Whippy is hard 7A+ for the dyno method (I'm sure Nodder would agree if I showed him my beta), possibly 7B for the undercut method.
Chocolate Wall is nails for 7B - I've seen lots of good climbers, some very, very good (like Bransby) fail on this.
Katz reminded the other day that Clemmow actually called it Chocolate Dipper originally. Awful name but historically correct I suppose.
Has anybody repeated it using Clem's original sequence (i.e. using the sidepull straight above the niche)?
Oh, and I don't think Screwball (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=593 (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=593)) is an eliminate; I would describe it as a tight line. There are other problems here that are less independant.
Good to see folk getting psyched about Pill Box - 5 years ago you couldn't drag people there.
And lastly can I just say again how good Ben Farley's Where's my Hippo is. A contender for the best 7A on the Ormes:
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Hippo%201%20600_1864.jpg)
If you refer to Northern Soul you will see that it was called Chocolate Dip ;). I find it as hard as Mr Whippy but i can keep my feet on the ledge and lank it. mule did it with the closer in sidepull, that's how i first tried it. Screwball is almost good but unfortunately it just eats my index finger. Guess its ok if you're 9 stone like Pete though :) Has he done Millenium Drive yet? :P
-
Where is the Hippo problem, is this next to Pill Box? Had a session there on the jubilee weekend and thoroughly enjoyed it.
-
The hippo line is great from the pillbox head rightward along the wall about 15m it's a sit start on little slopers if I remember right there's photos on nwb it's great
-
Mr Whippy is hard 7A+ for the dyno method (I'm sure Nodder would agree if I showed him my beta)
I agree its 7a+, I have never suggested otherwise. Its just harder than chocolate wall if your me.
-
Over The Moon (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/over-moon.html)
21 June 2012, 3:52 pm
The monsoon continues, hopes are raised by a couple of dry days before the crushing dismay of a forecast including 4 days of rain in a row. People go on about the weather being shit in Britain. I guess it is compared to most places but most summers are fine by me. I like it when it's mild and there's usually plenty of dry weather and dry rocks. What we're experiencing at the moment however is complete shite and i think everyone's struggling. We have plenty of rocks that don't seep here in Wales but it's not much use if it rains everyday. My wet hold on Walking Mussel doesn't make things any easier, in fact i'll go as far as to say it's a right pain in the ringpiece. I had a decent session at the start of the week but i ended up cutting my skin and had to stop. However, i have realised that i am a complete arsehole. I've been doing the crack such a hard way. I've been completely tunnel visioned into a blinkered sequence. Not standing on the god awful smear and using the shite slopey bankhand means it's now a lot easier. I couldn't try WM cos of skin last night so to put it to the test i got on Over The Moon, an 8a which also finishes up the crack. I got a bit carried away the first go and tried to do it putting all the middle clips in and not really knowing the moves. I was boxed stupid on the shakeout before the crack but was still really close to doing it. It felt great actually doing some decent climbing and getting pumped rather than falling off the same boulder problem. I really thought the effort had finished me for the day but i managed to get the route next go by climbing it more efficiently. It was the last 8a i had to do downstairs, here they are in order of difficulty, easiest first (IMO):
Mussel Beach - Low in the grade but 8a nevertheless and a great intro to the grade. Always popular.
Over the Moon Direct - Also popular. Hard moves in the middle lead to a decent shakeout before some very droppable moves through the last bulge.
Parasite - More meaty than it's neighbour Mussel B and longer with an excellent finishing headwall. The bit over the lip is hard if you're short and the rockover above is hard if you're tall.
Battle of The Little Big Orme - Prime! Superb rock and moves. One of the best. Helps if you can get a no hands kneebar halfway up.
Statement of Youth - The original classic is still a big draw. Takes in a lot of tricky old skool climbing and has a redpoint crux right at the end. Essential.
Over The Moon - From the shakeout on Over The Moon Direct move right and tackle the burly crack. Pumpy!
Pete was trying Big Bang. He says a lot of the difficulty of the route is tied up in skin issues as it's so savagely crimpy. He's a fat bastard compared to Caff of course. Weightwatcher's for Robins.
It doesn't look like i'll be down LPT for a bit cos of work which is gutting, just gotta keep in shape and get ready to strike when the times right.
Happy swimming people!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4122148868776041822?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Bumpy boys hit Dulas (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/bumpy-boys-hit-dulas.html)
28 June 2012, 1:54 pm
Just when you thought the conditions couldn't get any worse they did! As well as the rain and the seepage it's now disgustingly humid. You're not supposed to be able to see your breath when it's not cold- quite possibly the worst conditions for climbing. Last weekend the beasts descended on Llanddulas to try Temple of Gloom. I really do cherish my routes, they're like babies to me so it's amazing to watch strong climbers trying them. Temple has had no less than 6 8c climbers on it this year! Mawson and Pasquill turned up on the Saturday, Mawson is fit as a fiddle (as usual) and has just done a new 8c link at Malham. Pasquill has been in the Frankenjura, he didn't manage anything super hard as it was hot but one day he managed 3 8bs! Not bad by most people's standard. I was intrigued to see how Temple would hold out. Pete Robins has been taunting me saying it's 8a+ ever since he repeated it. Bob Hickish had been over a few times this year but not ticked it yet. The crag was in pretty good condition. Pascal soon had the route down to about 6 moves(!) and faired the best falling off after all the hard climbing (i fell off this move once too). He was so powered out he couldn't manage the jug to jug move. It was cool watching him climb on it. Vid:
Neil got it all sorted but wasn't feeling on top form so the redpoint eluded him. Jordan came down the next day for a burn too. I've got a new little project there which i'm pretty psyched about. It's only a link up with a few independent moves but i love the boulder problem on it. It's pretty tough with slopey grips.
Some pics:
Temple:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EotHBuVbQuI/T-xXy7iuIGI/AAAAAAAABns/FBaL07tXW5E/s320/mawson+temple2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EotHBuVbQuI/T-xXy7iuIGI/AAAAAAAABns/FBaL07tXW5E/s1600/mawson+temple2.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kKZG2ee49J0/T-xX7uF7DMI/AAAAAAAABn4/qLbhbT46r8g/s320/mawson+temple4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kKZG2ee49J0/T-xX7uF7DMI/AAAAAAAABn4/qLbhbT46r8g/s1600/mawson+temple4.jpg)
Inspector warming up flashing Mudjekeewis 7b+:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e98U6d6ZzIk/T-xXJWsLPUI/AAAAAAAABng/IiVrXMLbTwk/s320/mudje2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e98U6d6ZzIk/T-xXJWsLPUI/AAAAAAAABng/IiVrXMLbTwk/s1600/mudje2.jpg)
Mick Lovatt trying Wirral Whip 7c+:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wQukFp06RF4/T-xYKk_PxAI/AAAAAAAABoE/2ZAWf6Hnfew/s320/lovatt+wirral.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wQukFp06RF4/T-xYKk_PxAI/AAAAAAAABoE/2ZAWf6Hnfew/s1600/lovatt+wirral.jpg)
I had another 'could ave done it' moment on Walking Mussel. This time it was a wet foot rather than a wet hand that stopped me. I've got a different sequence to avoid the wet hold now but i still have the stand on it. The crag was the wettest yet. It's frustrating as i'm ready to finish it but i need it to be dry. Just got to be patient!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2741716314287858777?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Waterfall Action (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/06/waterfall-action.html)
30 June 2012, 11:06 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ayAoyNIS1F8/T-7cixgO6LI/AAAAAAAABoU/Z-yEQk14Pgs/s320/holeweb.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ayAoyNIS1F8/T-7cixgO6LI/AAAAAAAABoU/Z-yEQk14Pgs/s1600/holeweb.jpg)
Pete Robins made the 3rd ascent of The Hole Truth (8b) at Dyserth Waterfall yesterday. He went to finish it the other day but the crag was dripping. He discovered some feet first beta on the finishing moves on the lip. He's only got 3 8bs to do in this part of North Wales. The Brute on the Diamond and two of Caff's routes on slate (i think). There's 3 8bs at Dinbren he needs to do to be a true completist however. Rob Mirfin's 2 8b's could do with a repeat. They're definitely nails. Pete also linked Meatsville Arizona into Madness Reigns at 8a/+ (Meaty Madness?). He got a kneebar in the base of the groove and then slapped across the lip into Madness. When i first did Meatsville i attempted to glue the big cracked break to preserve the jugs. In hindsight i should have pulled it all off as it was fairly unstable. Well the break is gone now and the original Meatsville is hard 7c+ now. Apparently it's more obvious to climb it on the left now at its original grade, 7c. It sounds like it could do with one bolt being placed. Pete Harrsion glued a loose block on Strawberries Man- a few people had mentioned this to me. He ticked the route as did Ducko (for his first 7c). Bonza!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8086186398755195906?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Close (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/close.html)
5 July 2012, 11:39 am
You can almost hear the collective sigh of UK rock climbers as each weeks forecast is mirrored time after time. I suppose i'm lucky in that i get opportunities to try my project even if it's far from ideal. I got through the crux twice at the weekend which was great but i fell before the rest. On my best go my wet foot popped off the smear. I have to give it a wipe mid crux now to try and stop it popping off above. It was good conditions on the dry stone and some 8's were getting dispatched. Mawson did Melon Beach and Parasite and Ben West knocked off a few 8a's in a day. I finished off on Libertango which criminally i'd never done. It was brilliant and sustained but very easy for a Orme 7b+, i think its getting 7b in the new guide. It's pretty cool there's routes this good i haven't done. I've never seen routes like Statement wet in summer before. Inspector checking out Infanticide 8c:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z75xsdK-1hs/T_V9_aZNPNI/AAAAAAAABok/fvS5jb63F_I/s320/NJM+infanticide.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z75xsdK-1hs/T_V9_aZNPNI/AAAAAAAABok/fvS5jb63F_I/s1600/NJM+infanticide.jpg)
Shauna returned to the Cave and her continued progression is evident. She managed Pit of Hell (8a) and knocked out Halfway House which she took 8a for (most blokes take 8a+ without kneebars). She is a genuine beast that girl!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7773688442061693206?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Rolling Back the Years (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/rolling-back-years.html)
9 July 2012, 12:06 pm
I've lost my buzz, the weather has finally beat it out of me. I've hardly thought about Walking Mussel in the last week. I planned to go down to LPT Thursday evening but after looking over the wall it was apparent that it was actually fucked. Seepage from above and dark greasy rock below. Usually the climbing struggle is in your own hands (well kind of) but at the moment it's in the hands of the elements and i'm starting to think i'll do nothing this year. The problem is by the time it improves i'll be hanging by a noose with my limp penis getting pecked at by grateful seagulls. Anyway every cloud has a silver lining and i went back to Pill Box (which incidentally is one of the most reliable crags round here conditions wise). I've repeated a lot of stuff on Pill Box recently but there are two more new links for me to aim for. Drink Driving into Last Orders and/or Last Rites would be very cool and very sustained. The Last Rites link is probably beyond me but i'm keen to have the Last Orders one as a goal and if nothing else it's a reason to go there. Last Orders is a 7a up line just by the edge of the Box.
I first visited the box in 2002 armed with the Northern Soul: Coastal Crags pamphlet. It's funny to see how far Mr P's topo making abilities have come on in ten years. It is the topo making equivalent of jumping from 7a to 9a!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x0D922Epo54/T_rFyifACII/AAAAAAAABpQ/Puxokg2ozCQ/s320/pill+box.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x0D922Epo54/T_rFyifACII/AAAAAAAABpQ/Puxokg2ozCQ/s1600/pill+box.jpg)
There were 9 problems with the hardest being Kristian Klemmow's, Millenium Drive at V10. I got keen for the place and managed the 2nd ascent of Millenium Drive (Mule downgraded it on the 3rd ascent). My first new problems were Jack Daniels Connection and Chris' Link, both 7b+. I kept going back to my favourite crag and after 40 days managed Drink Driving in 2007. I gave it 8a+ as it had taken 4 times longer than the 8a's i'd done. I managed the harder start in 2009 (Jack the Drunk).
On Thusday i felt mutant warming up, i instantly recognised it was one of those rare days and i was cursing the fact i wasn't trying to climb Walking Mussel. Smitton and Dylan were there racing up E5's. Smit on More Genius:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9nGxWZ3NUZg/T_qrSM92FMI/AAAAAAAABo0/5RCwgwBrgws/s320/more+genius.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9nGxWZ3NUZg/T_qrSM92FMI/AAAAAAAABo0/5RCwgwBrgws/s1600/more+genius.jpg)There was only one thing for it, i sat down in that very familiar position and crabbed leftwards like i had so many times before. It felt like i was shaking hands with an old friend. I got to the two hard redpoint moves and crimped hard. I got the first pinch, a move i must have fallen off 100s of times and almost managed the cross under which marks the end of the hard climbing. It was a real buzz to almost repeat it, i felt like a better climber and the acres of extra flab weren't stopping me. Maybe the finishing links would be possible after all. I went back on Saturday and fell off the same move although i wasn't as strong. Pete Robins has never really got stuck into the box but he's started to get tick his way through the easier problems armed with a printed out ticklist. I'm sure he'll have everything ticked off in another few days. He's unrelenting that boy!
Pete attempting The Malteser, 7c:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xxKBng8OkWM/T_rDhFzW9jI/AAAAAAAABpE/f2Da_ZNPLjA/s320/malteser.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xxKBng8OkWM/T_rDhFzW9jI/AAAAAAAABpE/f2Da_ZNPLjA/s1600/malteser.jpg)
It seems like Last Rites could be 7b now as easier beta has emerged. I'll be a bit gutted if the 8a link from Malteser comes down. The new crimp that people have started using on Jack Daniels has basically made it pointless as it's so close to Original Problem so i'm going to have to declare it a historical eliminate i.e, the crimp is out. An eliminate it may be but the original 7b+ seqeuence and the 7b sequence are brilliant so it's still worthwhile. I don't care about Jack the Drunk losing significance as i know it was a hard thing that i did.
Old footage from Bamboo Productions:
Jack The Drunk - Chris Doyle (http://vimeo.com/5827976) from Bamboo Chicken Productions (http://vimeo.com/user1515109) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Pete Harrison is doing some re-equipping on Upper Empire. Last year Norman bolted Wild Blue Yonder at 6b. He soloed the first ascent of this, he's fucking nuts. It's filthy and loose. Pete bolted and led Man in Motion which is a bit more trad than sport. Can't see me going back but good effort Pete anyway.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-3295859821350648874?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Nanabozho (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/nanabozho.html)
11 July 2012, 9:27 pm
After the big news coming from the slate quarries this week i thought i needed to show Caff who's boss and overshadow his poxy slab. As i stepped outside today it was fresh, dry and windy which felt quite surreal. I've been playing around on a little project at Llanddulas recently. I'd noticed the potential for starting up Mudjekeewis and finishing up Wirral Whip a few times over the years but didn't really think that it worked/was worth it. I was up high on Wirral Whip a few weeks ago taking pictures of Mawson on Mudjekeewis and the holds on the connecting section looked really cool and i got keen to try it. I returned with Lee Proctor and stuck one bolt in the new section and started trying it. It was very cool and seemed about 7c. I was on redpoint when the decent hold on the route exploded off when i was clipping. At first i was gutted but then is started trying it without the hold and it seemed like it would go so i decided to stick with it without the hold. It was quite a bit harder and i got excited. The holds were slippy and slopey and the footholds were hard to use and tensiony. I sorted the moves and left it for another day. On my return i found an easier sequence for the end but kept falling on a hard deadpoint to a slopey pinch. The route does the first hard move on Mudjekeewis and then 5 new, independent moves to gain the jug tufa on Wirral Whip which it finishes up. Certainly one of the better pieces of climbing on the wall despite not being an entirely new line. Today i returned with the Cattells- Danny and Mule. The conditions were good and i felt stronger and soon hit the slopey pod which was the hardest move. I kept falling afterwards though and tickled the tufa on Wirral. This move is amazing, you can really launch at the hold and it's really satisfying when you catch it. With time running out i despatched and topped out. I've spent so much time falling off this year with my attempts on Walking Mussel that the few times i've got up something it's been a shock. Mudjekeewis is a spirit from African mythology and the eldest brother to Nanabozho (which is what i've called the route). It was quite easy to grade as it's a grade harder than Wirral Whip and so 8a. It certainly felt pretty tough and took much longer than the other 8's i've done this year.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CsMe8voa52I/T_3q2f5imJI/AAAAAAAABpg/Tx-ygEVXVAo/s320/Nanabozho.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CsMe8voa52I/T_3q2f5imJI/AAAAAAAABpg/Tx-ygEVXVAo/s1600/Nanabozho.jpg)
Danny would have got the FA on camera but he didn't press record so here is my best effort falling on the last move slapping the tufa. Danny is a muppet:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2832140478053341687?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Paratrooper (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/paratrooper.html)
13 July 2012, 10:57 am
We had two sunny days in a row in Wales which is unprecedented for this year. It's raining again now obviously. Yesterday the Orme had recovered in a big way. The Cave looked very dry and LPT was good too. Pete Robins managed a mega new 8a+ link downstairs. Paratrooper does all the hard climbing on Parasite to the rest at the flat break before moving up and right into Battle of the Little Big Orme up which it finishes. It's pretty cool because you end up climbing Battle with the original left hand sequence which no one ever does now. Battle was 8a+ when first done by Chris Plant in 1990.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LX4ia7IAxXI/T__7kaceq_I/AAAAAAAABpw/DB19HtBA8Jo/s320/paratrooper.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LX4ia7IAxXI/T__7kaceq_I/AAAAAAAABpw/DB19HtBA8Jo/s1600/paratrooper.jpg)
There was only one 8a+ in the 97 Rockfax but there will be no less than 7 in the new guide:
Pas De Deux - Direct finish to Bad Boy, hard 8a+.
Melancopout - Training link. Melanchollie to the undercuts then step right and finish up Bad Boy. Likely done years ago.
Bad Melons - Another training link starting up Bad Boy and finishing up Melanchollie. Also likely done years ago.
Melon Beach - Great link climbing the first hard section of Melanchollie, then up Bad Boy and finishing up Mussel Beach (or even better up Parasite).
Moonwalk - Neglected FA by Tommy taking a direct line into Over the Moon Direct. Get on it people.
Paratrooper - See above
Wild Understatement - An upgrade from the last guide. First climbed by George Smith in 89 but ridiculous for 8a (makes Statement look piss).
I was back on Walking Mussel after a enforced 10 day lay off and god it was a battle. I felt bored and had no zest which basically made it impossible to try hard (which is essential). I'm going to have to dig deep if i'm going to climb this route, it's well passed the 'fun' stage and i've had enough. I linked the crux on my 3rd day, it's essentially a boulder problem route and yet here i am still falling. I'm pretty sure i know what the answer is, i need to get down to my fighting weight and just blow it out the water. This is problematic as i'm enjoying grub right now and my missus will definitely kick off if i get any skinnier. I just keep thinking about the battle on Hole Truth last year and then how easy it was when i lost weight. One things for sure, i need a conclusion to this epic!
Shauna was back in the Cave and climbing more very hard things with minimal effort. This time In Hell, a solid 8a+ coming from the back wall into Rockatrocity. She said she's only got 2 weeks left in the country this year. It's alright for some, watch out hard blocs of the world!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1430770698515955723?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Last Drink (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/last-drink.html)
21 July 2012, 6:09 pm
Reality has bitten in the last week. I'm in the middle of a 16 day in a row work stint so climbing has taken a back foot. It's not too bad as the job isn't tiring and i'm only 45 minutes from home but the early starts get to you eventually. I've been getting out a bit since that surprising day on the box with Smitton and Dylan. After that day i started to wonder about the link into Last Orders. It seemed like it might be feasible as long as that day wasn't a one off fluke. It would give Drink Driving a great finish and would undoubtedly be a better problem with more tricky climbing tagged onto the end (without a rest) as opposed to a nothing piss finish. The crux of Last Orders is a long stretch and we all know big moves are hard when you're tired so i knew it would be a bastard on the link. I returned again but failed to do as well. Drink Driving is essentially all about two moves. It's 10 sustained crimpy moves to get there and then the difficulty lies in reversing the crux moves of Millenium Drive when you're tired. I used to be so low percentage on them both when i was first seiging the problem. In my recent sessions i had been quite consistent on the first move - an accurate span to the MD pinch. After a couple more duff sessions i hit the pinch again this week. This time i squeezed it so hard and with every ounce of effort that i could muster i shook my way into the good undercut that marks the end of the hard climbing. However it is still steep and you can't really rest. When i did Drink Driving for the first time i shook my way across this finishing section and was so close to falling. Where Drink Driving drops down to Font 5 territory you grab a undercut with your left and launch straight into Last Orders. This was new territory for me and i knew i needed to fight. Almost dropping every move i got to the big crux on Last Orders but my arm melted on the pinch and that was it. I fell but was chuffed to bits, it was definitely possible. I returned again with Mr Panton but it started raining so things weren't ideal and i only had one go (on a seperate note go do Where's My Hippo - best 7a on Orme?). I knew if i could do Drink Driving every go the link wouldn't take long. This was unrealistic however as although i was a lot better on it, it was still hard! The main thing that was i knew i needed to try as hard as i could when i was crossing under to the pinch.
Today i left work a bit earlier and planned to go down LPT with Pete Harrison. I got a txt when i was sitting at the Cave saying he had some car issues so i resorted to plan B - the box! I didn't really want to be there and wasn't feeling psyched but knew i needed to keep ticking over. I warmed up and messed about, not really taking things seriously. Interestingly i worked another sequence for the start of Drink Driving. It seemed strange to be playing around with it after so many years but the new way involved less crimping and more powerful, bigger holds. Maybe it could give me the edge. I only had 2 pads so i stuck them both under Last Orders as the landing isn't so great. I sat on my jumper (i really hate starting a boulder problem without a pad, it feels uncivilised) and set off wizzing along to the business section. I felt good and hit the pinch, when you get it you need to move fast before the left hand powers out. Like the last time i did the move it was all out getting the undercut but once i had something felt different from the last attempt. I felt stronger and more composed and even managed a few shakes of each arm. I couldn't believe it, i knew i had a chance. As i started up Last Orders the surpise grew as i still had some strength and i realised it was on. I got to the crux and sucked in and stretched and grabbed the good hold. I matched the finishing crimps above and stepped off onto the box screaming. It felt amazing! I knew this new link was a great improvement and one of the hardest things i've done. It could well be harder than Jack the Drunk. Jack the Drunk has a hard start but you're fresh. For this link you need to climb Drink Driving with a bit in the tank and this gave me more satisfaction than anything. Through all the dismay that this year has brought, the abysmal weather and wet crags, the frustration trying one route and the lack of ticks i have managed to keep myself from getting too pissed off. And that is because i know i have improved at this game. I climb better and my base level is so much better. These days i seem to be able to maintain a much higher level rather than the odd flash in the pan of times gone by.
There is one more link to do on the box and i can't help but wonder if it's a goer. The link into Last Rites would be significantly harder again but it's a great challenge and i'll never tire of going to the box. The new link is called Last Drink, i was saving this name for DD/Last Rites but Pete R suggested 'One for the Road' for that and i think it fits. Back to work for me, hopefully i won't have to wait as long for another such moment.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-59967256248713618?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Nice one :strongbench:
-
Haha nice one beast, hitting form just as summer arrives.
-
Haha nice one beast, hitting form just as summer arrives.
Hope so but got a feeling the box is just kind to me ;)
-
Last Orders pics (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/last-orders-pics.html)
22 July 2012, 5:06 pm
Some pics of Last Orders from the camera of Mr P.
Undercut to pinch first move, Mr P:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ax0SUNS5RRU/UAwyyCYOZMI/AAAAAAAABqA/If-o3uQ2F6A/s320/Last+Orders+2+mr+p.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ax0SUNS5RRU/UAwyyCYOZMI/AAAAAAAABqA/If-o3uQ2F6A/s1600/Last+Orders+2+mr+p.jpg)
Me on the long crux move to the good hold:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lji-d16vm5w/UAwy8ik30LI/AAAAAAAABqM/HzlnjDAHGXw/s320/last+orders+web1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lji-d16vm5w/UAwy8ik30LI/AAAAAAAABqM/HzlnjDAHGXw/s1600/last+orders+web1.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7999423020504973750?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Badger Badger Badger (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/badger-badger-badger.html)
29 July 2012, 6:32 pm
Ally Smith has completed an old project on the Dive Dive Dive sector on the Upper Drive. His route Badger Badger Badger (8a+) is essentially a direct start to the classic 7b, Dive Dive Dive. The route features a hard and reachy boulder problem passing the 2nd bolt, Ally estimated this section to be about font 7b. 6 more long moves then lead to DDD up which the route finishes. Ally reckoned it was comparable in difficulty and style to Energy Vampire (8a+) at Malham. The route is very morpho so it will be interesting to see how shorties get on. Nice one Ally, great to have another hard route above the road. It doesn't look like we're going to break last years record of 13 new grade 8's though. The weather and lack of new lines has seen to that. I counted 4 so far.
Since my big tick on Pill Box i've been back a couple of times to try the Last Rites link. I've got through Drink Driving again both times but the harder finish is a different ball game and it feels some way off. If you can get through DD every now and again on Last Drink it should just be a matter of time. On this link significantly more PE is needed. I've been playing about on Last Rites trying to suss easier beta. I don't think there is a easier method for me and my beta is quick fro the link. I'm not convinced it's 7b though, the first hard move off the shit pinch is a bitch on the link. I'm still adjusting to the fact that i can lap something that has represented my limit for so long - it's a bizarre feeling. I've had moments like this when i've had a freak day or lost weight but i'm experiencing an elevated level at the moment! It seems i've just got stronger! I'd definitely be considering downgrading DD if Ed and Dan hadn't of confirmed the grade. Hopefully if i can keep doing DD i'll make progress on it soon. I always regarded this one as a pipe dream for me, i thought Ed Hamer would be the man for the job. So i'm delighted that it's a realistic proposition.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6883460429183432715?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Emancipation! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/07/emancipation.html)
30 July 2012, 6:20 pm
I ended my LPT 2012 seige today by finally sketching my way up The Walking Mussel. I started trying the route in March and made quick progress. It didn't seem like it was going to be too much of an epic - how wrong i was!
A combination of the worst summer for a very long time and the fact that the two crux moves were so droppable resulted in my biggest route siege yet (apart from The Brute which still eludes me).
Most years you would never have to contend with seepage on the route but this was no normal year. A inch wide section of water right where i had to stand caused me much frustration.
Throughout the whole thing i never lost sight that the end would come if i kept going. It's pretty handy being an experienced seiger in these situations. Redpointing at your limit is so hard, after 10 days it's full on mind warfare. 5 weeks ago i was really close but i didn't manage to get back down there.
Today i went down with Tommy, the chalk on the crag was glowing white and it was cold and fresh so i knew it would be pretty good. The wet hold wasn't dry but it was better than last time. First redpoint i dropped the move to the undercut when i really should't have. It's so frustrating when it's execution that lets you down, i always think: 'a good climber would have done that move then'.
Next go i was determind to do the move. I knew i was strong on the next undercut match so i might have a chance if i got there. Sure enough i got the undercut and stuffed my fingers up it. I matched really strong and sorted my feet out nicely. I was dreading the next tricky move, i'd only got here once before. But this time everything stuck and i was soon at the first reasonable shakout. It's a weird feeling to break onto new ground when you've been stuck in one place for so long. I knew a good climber wouldn't drop the end but i needed to get some strength back.
I shook furiously and screamed expletives to get me psyched up. I knew i could top out even if it took everything i had. I quested on up to the undercuts before the crack but didn't feel the need to stay there long. I knew i had enough strength left and didn't want to pump out trying to recover (this is a problem when you've no stamina). The crack went well apart from a almost fatal foot fumble. Soon i was shaking out after the hard bit but i knew i was in- i felt ok. I wacked in the final handjam, grabbed the good finishing holds and stood on top as the sun shined down on my chest.
Thank fuck for that! The main emotion was that i was free and i didn't have to go up there again. After investing so many days into it it had became the main priority of the year, work and everything else had to stand in line. Dyer had told Robins he reckoned i'd fall off the crack so i'm glad to prove him wrong.
Although it's a number up i don't feel like i've reached the next level as i've done a couple of routes that aren't much easier. It was the biggest epic though and i'm just going to enjoy myself for a bit now. I finished off on Bad Boy and went home for a tuna dinner. I can't believe i've done my hardest boulder and hardest route in the same week!
Me and Tommy went down Pigeon's for a look on the way home. It was pretty dry and i'm keen for my project there. At least i don't have to feel guilty when i go to the Diamond in a few weeks now!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4791867364707285344?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Strong effort!
-
Imminent Departees (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/imminent-departees.html)
5 August 2012, 12:10 pm
Pete Harrison has climbed a new E7 (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/08/03/imminent-departees-stunning-new-e7-at-craig-y-forwyn/) at Craig y Forwyn. I went to along to take some pics, it looks a great piece of rock. Pete took the lob while i was there but got it next go.
It's been nice not to have to stress about LPT and seiging that route. As is always the case though in climbing your mind soon starts top think about the next challenge. Once the joy has faded you're left with a lasting satisfaction but also a desire for that feeling of clipping the lower off of a hard route. The good thing is i can chill out now and enjoy myself. I've got a couple of FA's i'd love to do. The Pigeons route depends on a long term shift in the weather though. If things carry on like they have been it probably won't happen. I went to Dyserth Waterfall with Spidey and the Cattells yesterday. Mule's on the comeback trail again. He's always blighted by injury but is so strong he's soon back on it. He tried The Hole Truth and blitzed the start but struggled with reach at the lip. There's not many options for feet if you're short. It seems that the start which i struggled on so much is actually ok if you're strong, ah to be a beast! I tried Pete's link Meaty Madness which links Meatsville Arizona into Madness Reigns. I didn't bother with this last year as it would have been the same grade as Madness and i was sick of going there. Losing the break on Meatsville means it's definitely harder and pretty damn awesome! The first roof is hard now. It's brilliant physical climbing and i'm well keen to try it again when i feel a bit fresher. Damn that crag's good!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7070491383828990418?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Rodney God Reclimbed (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/rodney-god-reclimbed.html)
12 August 2012, 9:38 pm
Pete Robins has reclimbed Rodney God and the Oral Twins at the Cutaway after the loss of a crucial hold. The route was a soft 8a that had a glued on square crimp. I think it was John Maskell who pulled it off and the route has been in limbo ever since. Pete worked out an intense new sequence at the top and bagged it in a couple of sessions at 8b.
Pete also did a new DWS on The Little Orme:
"Then we went questing around the little orme in Tommys boat with Neil too. Well good fun, 'E' looks amazing! We spied a great little routeat the right end of the ledge, to the left of the finish of Heel HookLook (which was wet). It goes up the wall to an overlap and jugs abovethen over a bulge past a pocket and 'fang' hold near the top. Wemoored up on the ledge and Neil committed first, went wrong way andfell in! I didn't want to fall in. I found an easier way at start thenheld it together for the exciting finish. Its perfect quality (2stars), above deep water at high tide, not too high, and around 7a+ or 7b. Felt 7b to me but i was scared! def not climbing at Diablo on myown in sept! Call it 'Ledgend'."
I ventured down The Diamond for the first time yesterday with Pete Harrison, Pascal, Smitton and Gus. It was fantastic to be back at the most inspiring sport crag in North Wales. It felt tropical, a warm wind was hitting the crag and the rock was really dry (if a little warm). We stayed down at high tide, it wasn't a high one and everything from the Brute leftwards was fine. Me and Pete got on Skip of Fools, the George Smith 8a+ left of Boat People. It was inspiring watching Jimmy Big Guns screaming his way up it last year. It looked brilliant! First go up i was a bit baffled. There are so many potential holds and on this bit of wall i was struggling to find the best ones. The first 3 bolts contain the hardest moves, this bit is really fingery. Then you get to perhaps the only shakeout on the route (and its not a great one) before a sustained romp to the belay. The majority of the holds are pinches (and often quite slopey ones). It really took a bit to get my head round it. Pete sussed some cool beta and sequences on the top and i got a sequence on the start. It's the kind of route that should feel easier every go up as you get it more dialled but jesus it will be a beast to link it all. It's one of the purest power endurance routes i've been on, it hardly lets up at all. Brilliant moves all the way. It's a great contrast to Walking Mussel and i'm psyched to get fitter. Pascal and Smit warmed up on Boat People then Pascal got on The Brute and Smit got on Never Get Out of The Boat. Ry was obviously inspired by The Brute and he was really impressive on it considering he's not been psyched recently. He got to the high redpoint crux 2nd redpoint and will have a good chance of nailing it next time. Smit did NGOOTB and Gus was psyched to be there in good conditions for once and nailed Boat People. This crag is so fucking awesome, its crazy that its banned for the period of year when it's most mint. The main bit of crag has no birds, there is a nest up by Rub a Dub Dub and the rest are up and right of The Brute. Surely we can have partial restrictions on this cliff like they do at so many. It's criminal that it's so out of reach
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7360004654519118243?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Oh yeah forgot about that! I still have the hold somewhere. It was fat Dave P who ripped the hold off though!
-
Very slack Maskell, you should have repaired that ages ago!
-
Nah that hold had no place being there and I knew that one day someone would come along and climb it again to create a super classic 8b. Now we have an almost perma-dry, non-tidal 8b on the Orme. I might glue the hold to the top of Indian Summer to make it easier for me. Anyway, shouldn't you be in France getting fat and weak on your package holiday instead of being on UKB!?
-
Fat scouse bastards
-
Three Day Event (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/three-day-event.html)
15 August 2012, 4:40 pm
Pete Harrison has climbed a fine companion route to his neo-classic Red Meat on Craig Pen Gogarth. Pete reckons his new route is 3 stars and like Red Meat it takes the full length of the crag. Three Day Event goes at 7b+/7c. For a more detailed report check the V12 (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/08/13/three-day-event-f7bc-%E2%80%93-great-new-30m-pitch-at-craig-pen-y-gogarth/) news item. Pete is on a mission at the moment, expect more cool ascents soon!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5750124515347643333?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Skip of Extended (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/skip-of-extended.html)
22 August 2012, 8:08 pm
Pete Robin's has kicked off Diamond season by giving Skip of Fools a logical extended finish to the first belay of Boat People. For some reason Skip finishes in a rather random place a few moves from the easier ground above. Pete's finish gives a few more tricky moves bumping the grade a bit higher up the 8a+ grade. He also added an alternative direct start.
Today Pete rattled off the 4th ascent of the Brute confirming it's super duper quality.
I haven't climbed much since I did Walking Mussel. This has not been through choice, indeed i wanted to climb some more stuff while i was climbing well but other things have got in the way. I miss the endorphins and that feeling of being on a mission though. Today i popped into the Cave after 3 glutonous days in Italy and unsuprisingly i felt rather shit. I've also picked up a bad shoulder from somewhere which doesn't help matters. I ran down to Pigeons on my way home. My project there is my main route goal really but alas it was not dry. It hasn't been dry for more than a few days all summer and it looks like it's going to stay that way. No more being a fat tourist rubbing shoulders with annoying yanks, its all about the crush.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6340631132391816515?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back on It (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-on-it.html)
27 August 2012, 8:46 pm
I've been trying to get back into the climbing groove this week. The body is starting to wake up, today i headed down the Diamond with Tommy and Pascal. It's been frustrating hearing about people lapping it up down there. Everyones been trying Skip of Fools and Pete Robins has been checking out proj's. Goddamit the place has so much potential. I'd love everything to be done for the next guide so i can look at the page full of meat with high 8's. Hopefully a few will get completed. Pete text me today that he feels "like Edlinger at Ceuse in the 80s". It's a great quote and there are lines here that wouldn't be out of place at such a crag. Today was shitty weather but the rock was just about ok. The rain was blowing in after a bit but we were on the crag so couldn't complain too much. We all climbed on Skip, Tommy has been trying it a bit and dispensed the beta. It felt like a different route this time and i really enjoyed working it out with a bit more knowledge. It's fuckin brilliant climbing, ace sidepulls, pinches and guppys. Pascal got it sorted and despatched and me and Tommy did some linkage. The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now. It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade. Having said that the last move will be a heartbreaker i'm sure! Despite sport climbing all year i haven't done much endurance climbing so its feels like a nice change. The Brute defo feels like a bit more than a grade harder to me though.
Pascal on The Brute last time:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vURJvrQlaI8/UDvbSutQAAI/AAAAAAAABqs/DR6KNrj1W-s/s320/IMG_1300+%2528800x600%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vURJvrQlaI8/UDvbSutQAAI/AAAAAAAABqs/DR6KNrj1W-s/s1600/IMG_1300+%2528800x600%2529.jpg)
I feel so much better after getting out. I literally depend on the climbing buzz to live a happy life these days. Everything just feels so much better after being out on the crag. I like my missus more, i like my tea more, i like my bed more. I love getting in starving and feeling worked and then chilling out and planning the next hit. I'm a addict- fuck i better not get injured.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2406931764805036804?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Everything just feels so much better after being out on the crag. I like my missus more, i like my tea more, i like my bed more. I love getting in starving and feeling worked and then chilling out and planning the next hit.
Brilliantly simplistic reasoning of why one must never give up.
-
Back on It (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-on-it.html)
27 August 2012, 8:46 pm
The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now. It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
:-[
-
Back on It (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-on-it.html)
27 August 2012, 8:46 pm
The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now. It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
:-[
Did you do it?? Its allowed at first of the grade! ;) ;D
-
:dance1:
I don't feel any more hollow than usual 8)
-
:icon_beerchug:
Nice work Pete!
-
New Dinbren 8b From The Dog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/08/new-dinbren-8b-from-dog.html)
29 August 2012, 9:35 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xWdJ-xyk5WQ/UD6QmsYMhOI/AAAAAAAABr8/Sq5YNzzZpIM/s320/IMG_0729.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xWdJ-xyk5WQ/UD6QmsYMhOI/AAAAAAAABr8/Sq5YNzzZpIM/s1600/IMG_0729.JPG)My old mucker Sam (mule) Cattell finally completed his project at Dinbren today. This route has been Mules main goal for a year or so but constant injury and a temporary exodus to Sheffield stopped him in his tracks. Mule got involved again recently but the tricky conditions at the crag didn't help matters. Despite this he remained focused and trained specifically for the route. The route is a bit of a power endurance affair but expect some burly ass moves. Mule has given it 8b but has yet to come up with a name (i bet its a sandbag too). The route is located on the far left hand side of the crag, basically the last route. It's a great reward for a man/animal who has been plagued for injuries over the years and because of this hasn't managed to fulfil his potential despite being a complete monster. Dinbren now has 4 8b's:
Insomnia - Pete Chadwick
El Zapazitas - Rob Mirfin
Binary Finary - Rob Mirfin
? - Sam Cattell
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X94PAZhAM0A/UD6JxlRN5-I/AAAAAAAABrA/yUnF6FRwqh8/s320/IMG_0726.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X94PAZhAM0A/UD6JxlRN5-I/AAAAAAAABrA/yUnF6FRwqh8/s1600/IMG_0726.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bzwqG2wuKTE/UD6Kj_oap1I/AAAAAAAABrY/YlTSzvRD9gM/s320/IMG_0733.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bzwqG2wuKTE/UD6Kj_oap1I/AAAAAAAABrY/YlTSzvRD9gM/s1600/IMG_0733.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nPUCIkJOHBs/UD6KM_5LolI/AAAAAAAABrM/oqr-XyQhWm8/s320/IMG_0730.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nPUCIkJOHBs/UD6KM_5LolI/AAAAAAAABrM/oqr-XyQhWm8/s1600/IMG_0730.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EXdFc3zMRR4/UD6KyPMQKpI/AAAAAAAABrk/BhMmA7wRxQY/s320/dog.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EXdFc3zMRR4/UD6KyPMQKpI/AAAAAAAABrk/BhMmA7wRxQY/s1600/dog.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5575753851910898067?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
That headband is a fierce look
-
Paper Birds (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/09/paper-birds.html)
3 September 2012, 6:54 pm
Dan Knight has climbed a project line at the ferocious limestone cave the Gop, a stones throw from Dyserth. Dan lives near Chester now so the Gop was a relatively close hit and being a lover of hard moves he got into the place. A few years ago i worked out a new hybrid line in between Push the Button and Smoke a Bloke. It used holds on both problems but climbed really well and felt independent and very worthwhile. I went there with some beasts and Ned Feehally got keen for it and worked out the shouldery, body tensiony moves. Footage of his attempts here:
Ned didn't manage it that session and it was left until Dan got stuck in recently. Despite climbing the two 8a's in under 5 tries each the project took 7 sessions. He broke the first hold a bit and had to spend another session just trying that move again. Anyway he completed it and reckoned 8a+ was fair. This seems more than reasonable judging by the speed he did the 8as! The problem is called Paper Birds. The Gop is in my old mans guide. In my view Push the Button, Smoke a Bloke, Bloesmoker Low and this are good hard problems but the others aren't really worth travelling for so if you're weak i wouldn't bother (hence why i never go).
Paper Birds:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JzabQNtmLoU/UET4OThYv8I/AAAAAAAABsU/k-WEIzdeUWc/s320/Paper+Birds3+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JzabQNtmLoU/UET4OThYv8I/AAAAAAAABsU/k-WEIzdeUWc/s1600/Paper+Birds3+%25282%2529.jpg)
Last week down on the Diamond Ally Smith climbed Boat People into Skip Extension to give an amazing 8a link up.
I went down to Devon this weekend for Unclesomebodys wedding (remember him!). I managed to get down to Ansteys Cove on Sunday despite being sleep deprived. It was dry so i got back on Cider Soak. I fell off this route a few years ago with the top of the crag in my hand. I fell just short of the top this time which was a bit frustrating. It really is a route of two halfs for me. The first half is amazing moves and holds and then you hit these jugs and its awkward, painful, thrutchy climbing to the top. I hate that finish, i'll give it a go in another two years.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4012308370579174152?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Proj Psyche (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/09/proj-psyche.html)
7 September 2012, 1:59 pm
After watching this video i was taken back by the effort Ondra puts into every attempt. None of us will ever be able to get anywhere close to his physical ability but surely tuning your mind to give it everything can be achieved. "Try harder" - it sounds easy, it should be easy, but putting this effort in and channeling it so it doesn't just throw you off the rock is pretty hard. So many times on Walking Mussel this summer i fell off through sheer ineptitude and just not trying hard enough. There was something in my head stopping me squeeze that pinch as hard as i needed too. I'm not alone either i've seen loads of people redpointing at their limit who just seem to drop off. Surely if you're on for your dream route, at your limit, you need to give it everything you have. I don't know what it is in our heads that stop many of us on so many redpoints but i'd like to get to the bottom of it!
Check out this (http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/09/isles-of-wonder-f-a-video/) video of Pete Robins 8b in Ogwen. A few people have said to me it looked good in one pic but not as cool in another. I think the vid shows its a pretty sweet line and a proper boulder problem. Get to it all you 8b climbing hommes.
I've had a bit more opportunity to climb recently and have been trying Pilgrim in Parisella's a bit. My downfall with the Cave is that i go, but don't go back soon enough to capitalise on it. Pilgrim inspires at it's pure power endurance and to me one of the best looking links in there. Its 25ish moves so basically a route and i can't really stop anywhere on it. It's frustrating though as i find every few sessions i have a backwards session and that's hard to take mentally. I got to the flake then a few days later my heel kept slipping off before Rockatrocity. I'm hoping this time i'll persevere with it and not get distracted by everything else.
I finally got to try my Pigeons proj yesterday, this was the one that got away out of all the routes i bolted last year. I've played around on it but yesterday felt like my first proper session. It seeps so has been wet all year. The top half of the route contains one of the coolest crux sequences i've done on a route. It all depends on a very specific kneebar that most won't be able to get. Yesterday was the first time i tried it with the 5.10 pad and it felt better. I also found a kneebar on another hard move which really helped but it's on the other leg so i'm going to have to borrow another pad. I managed to get from the ground through the first kneebar into the hard climbing but i need more power endurance. I've had a picture of the route on my desktop all year to keep me psyched. I really love it but doing it is dependent on the weather, work and belayers. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-9172838802498910855?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Brute Flashed!!!! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-brute-flashed.html)
10 September 2012, 10:25 am
Chris Webb Parsons made a historic flash of The Brute (8b) on The Diamond yesterday. 8b flash might not be considered historic in most sport climbing areas of the globe but in the context of our little scene and given the route in question it most certainly is. Pete Harrison was our man on the ground and takes up the story: "He rested up it, clipped every bolt including dogging clips and didn't use all the best holds. Formula 1 compared to British touring cars. He hadn't even done any climbing before pulling on, this was literally his warm up". This is the first 8b flash in Wales, Mcclure and Malc got reasonably close to Melanchollie years ago. Despite being a tough one locally i always knew the The Brute would be a good contender for Euro Wads/World beasts. It's a euro style resistance route with no real hard moves so a good contender for the top boys. Chris also got close to linking Waiting Game into the top crack project and left his clips in so hopefully he'll return for it! Inspiring!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5065902583840598851?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Redpointsss! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/09/redpointsss.html)
21 September 2012, 10:12 pm
I've had 4 days of redpoints on my pigeons route now. It's been going pretty well and i got the last hold before the top on my best go. I've definitely got fitter and stronger on it. It's no hardship trying the route as the top sequence is so brilliant. I still buzz off the crux sequence, it's not your average limestone route. Conditions have been great but alas the route was wet when i went down today. My only worry about getting this done is the seepage and next week doesn't look too great either. All i can do is keep strong and get on it when i can.
Yesterday i walked into the Diamond at 8am with Pete R and Tommy. I was keen to get some footage of Pete on his mega project by the Brute. It was predictably greasy with it being so early but Pete meticulously chalked up the holds and started redpoints. It really is a incredible, intense piece of climbing. Halfway up the jugs arrive but it's a long way to the top. I got a rope up The Brute extension (another amazing project- best 8b in Britain with another one on top). I was hanging out quite far filming Pete at the bottom so had to prod the crag horizontally with my clipstick to stop me swinging round continuously. We got stuck on the ledges at high tide for what seemed like an eternity. Dave Redpath had joined us, he dropped the last move of Skip on his first redpoint but bagged it just before dark. Tommy was figuring out Robinson Cruiser and Pete had some more redpoints. A long day at the crag and i daresay probably the only time i'll walk in and walk out 12 hours later! Pete Harrison rebolted The Sting 7c+ a few weeks ago and its reportedly excellent.
Tommy on Robinson 8a:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3O6eBBMpuY/UFzlGCI0hzI/AAAAAAAABtI/ivrhsWXjh1A/s320/IMG_1334.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l3O6eBBMpuY/UFzlGCI0hzI/AAAAAAAABtI/ivrhsWXjh1A/s1600/IMG_1334.JPG)
Pete with his proj behind him:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0fcaePrXIc/UFzlrOwRIdI/AAAAAAAABtU/SNehYm_oJCc/s320/pete+proj.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0fcaePrXIc/UFzlrOwRIdI/AAAAAAAABtU/SNehYm_oJCc/s1600/pete+proj.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7591819440493237745?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Good to see you so physchsked at the moment after the lows last year. Just goes to show
The Brooks Family Gospel Singers - "Behind Every Cloud" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIQO0eRM_G0#)
-
Gotta ride the highs and lows stallion. I love it all really.
-
Tony the Tiger Conquers (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/09/tony-tiger-conquers.html)
25 September 2012, 12:40 pm
Tony Shelmerdine has climbed his longstanding project on the Tower at Llanddulas. When we first started visiting the crag Tony was the first man over the top. He was immediately inspired by a crimpy steep headwall and stuck a lower off in. Tony returned to clean his line and finish bolting it. I bolted up Vegas Nights, Tony had considered a swap but decided to persevere with his project. He soon regretted his decision as elbow tendonitis thwarted his efforts and he hardly tried the route again. Roll on a year and a half and Tony was climbing well again and feeling strong and he started working his route. He got the two sections but didn't think he had the stamina to link it. He was proved wrong however and bagged the route in good style. The as yet unnamed line shares the first few moves with Resist the Race then busts out left and straight up to the top. The difficulties are about 7bish. Nice one Tone!
Pic by Mike Doyle:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IJoc3knwh-k/UGGlwIkIgmI/AAAAAAAABts/1cJ7CU7G720/s320/P6111352.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IJoc3knwh-k/UGGlwIkIgmI/AAAAAAAABts/1cJ7CU7G720/s1600/P6111352.JPG)
We have had a ridiculous amount of rain in the last two days and Pigeons will be a dripping mess. I'm going to persevere though and climb it in the wet at 8c+.
Footage of Dave Redpath dropping last move of Skip (go before he did it):
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8565507592872236324?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back to The Brute (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/09/back-to-brute.html)
29 September 2012, 5:06 pm
It was only a week and a bit ago that i was walking round with a spring in my step. I was falling off the end of an amazing, inspiring project. I convinced myself that there would be a few more dry days as that's all i needed to finish it. Just when you need a bit of luck the deluge began. Three days of constant rain, 4 inches in a day and a half. Dry crags like The Diamond and LPT were destroyed so little old Pigeons had no chance. It's pretty unlikely that it will dry again and i doubt i'll do much more sport climbing this year.
Yesterday i fancied a bit of Diamond scene so went down with Tommy and Dave R. Sam and Bransby were already on the Brute. I had planned to get on Boat of Fools but i felt no inspiration for an 8a link up. I didn't even get on The Brute last year and i really felt the urge to climb on it again. I spent 2 seasons seiging the route and it all felt very familiar as soon as i got back on. The boys had worked out a less sapping way of doing the crux and i was soon kicking myself as i did the move using there hold. Even more dismay set in when i grabbed an intermediate on that top redpoint crux which used to stop me in my tracks. I'd felt it years ago but this time it felt more positive and essentially halved the big move. I'm sure this could have been enough for me on my best redpoints on the route. I may have done it or i might have pumped out on the last moves but it's fairly annoying that i missed the hold. I really need to finish it next year, it's definitely the best sport route in Wales. Ben did a big link then pissed it next go for the 6th ascent. I don't think i'll ever get over the way he drags small crimps on hard moves, it's ridiculous! Unfortunately for him his project extension was wet but i'm sure he'll be back. Sam was doing some good links and looking rather enthused. The route has had 6 ascents now but i've been waiting for some mortals to get on it to hopefully have an epic and make me feel better about spending 25 days on a 8b. The guys who have done it have all been 8c+/9a strong which quite frankly is cheating. It's settled at hard 8b but i do wonder if it might have been different if more 8b/+ climbers had tried it. Dave Redpath certainly expressed dismay that it was only 8b. I still rank it harder than Melanchollie which is top end. Damn those beasts!
Sam on the slippy flatties halfway up:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2AgMqHbAoVY/UGcosU6ggsI/AAAAAAAABuE/uClXXE16Tr8/s320/sam+brute1.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2AgMqHbAoVY/UGcosU6ggsI/AAAAAAAABuE/uClXXE16Tr8/s1600/sam+brute1.JPG)Setting up for redpoint crux:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kOmELBM3Y_g/UGco81kU2WI/AAAAAAAABuQ/NZa3OvD2kvg/s320/sam+brute3.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kOmELBM3Y_g/UGco81kU2WI/AAAAAAAABuQ/NZa3OvD2kvg/s1600/sam+brute3.JPG)
The long redpoint crux:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJvmSMPVcQ4/UGcphnMFW4I/AAAAAAAABug/zaeqEzFfjXY/s320/sam+brute4.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJvmSMPVcQ4/UGcphnMFW4I/AAAAAAAABug/zaeqEzFfjXY/s1600/sam+brute4.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-4798725348974096980?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Inspiration (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/inspiration.html)
5 October 2012, 4:59 pm
I often think what my life's focus would have been if I hadn't have got hooked on climbing when i was younger. For me as much as i love the process of climbing up bits of rock, the athletic side of it and having great days out with fellow psyched people in cool places i tend to think of it in terms of inspiration. I think if you can draw inspiration from something in life you've got it cracked. To stay driven and motivated through all of life's ups and downs isn't easy. Everyone faces adversity at one point or another and that's why i think it's so damn useful to have something that will always motivate you and keep you positive. Of course most people aren't lucky enough to stumble upon something that gives them such focus and motivation. It's not something you can force and to get obsessed about something is an organic process. You can lay the seeds but they may never grow. Whether it be making a million, sailing round the world in a bathtub or just collecting stamps i genuinely believe those with the inspiration are onto a winner and will be the most fulfilled when its time to stomp up to the pearly gates. I hope you're one of the lucky ones.
(Jeez that was almost like one of the old Sunday Sermons!) (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6861860720285322481?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:clap2: :clap2: Wise words!
-
Like
-
Spot on. All about inspiration and passion.
-
For a moment there I though you were going on about your obsession with mentally challenge old men from Rhyl..
Good write up, if you have no passion for anything in life why be here !
-
Bring back the Sunday Sermons, they were great!
-
Ha ha I ran out of subject matter for the Sunday Sermons but its been a few years....
-
Bring back the Sunday Sermons, they were great!
Agreed. Some moments of clarity do exist in that twisted head. Nothing better than scanning through the Sunday Sermon listening to Enya to feel empowered. Bring it back!!
-
Bouldering Season! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/bouldering-season.html)
9 October 2012, 9:07 pm
Since my Pigeons project got wet i haven't been back on a rope. I'm too dismayed so unless by some miracle it dries i'll probably put the rope back in the gimp dungeon til next year. I've been trying a boulder project that i've played on a bit this year. It's coming together and i'm hoping it won't turn into an epic. I was also keen to finish off Pilgrim which i've also tried quite a few times this year. The thing is with the Cave is that it's hard just to dip in and out and make progress. Even with sustained effort i'd get to the flake on RA one day and not even get across the arch a few days later. This kind of thing just makes a siege hard work. Every backwards day acts as a razor to the scrotum. I've wanted to do this link since i first did Rocka 10 years ago. It seems like one of the most obvious ones in there and is so sustained. I used to try the arch so many times, long before it was a popular recognised link. I could never figure out a sequence but it's got easier as people have got better with there heels and you don't even need to heel these days if you don't want as there is a new foothold under RA jug. I finally started to get into RA but this was only half the battle. 9 sustained moves of tough 7c followed but the good thing with this kind of thing is that you do gain the specific fitness and you will improve if you put the time in. The first major crux is hitting the flake from the start, this is definitely a stopping point and if you get it you may well get to the last moves. Most people fall off the end on the RA links, the last move is a bit of a heartbreaker. I got back into Llandudno from work at about 5.30, i was looking forward to chilling out after working a nightshift last night and a afternoon today but i gave myself a kick up the arse (well i squeezed my nuts) and convinced myself to go and give it a redpoint. Owen Scouse was there with his rabbit savaging beast and his meaty lights. I warmed up complaining about not feeling great. I said to Owen that if i ever got past my highpoint and got the heel on at the end i might have a chance - i didn't really believe it. I sat down at the start of Left Wall, climbed across the arch perfectly and embarked on RA. It felt different this time, i was solid, i didn't cut loose and was soon at the tensiony end which marked my highpoint. I got my feet onto the ramp this time and the end wasn't really an issue. I screamed in pure surprise, i couldn't believe it. Where were the sessions dropping that last move? it doesn't normally happen like this! It's my first non Pill Box 8a+ but it's 25 moves so more like a hard F8b+.
A good attempt a few weeks ago:
So cool in the night!:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MsHEGtR9_gg/UHSRM7AGjyI/AAAAAAAABu4/ZYhKFZcaQ54/s320/cave+dark.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MsHEGtR9_gg/UHSRM7AGjyI/AAAAAAAABu4/ZYhKFZcaQ54/s1600/cave+dark.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1202021720901106212?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Congrats Reverend!
Also, thanks for the precious info, I was thinking about trying it on my next visit. Ahah! 25 moves!!! I would need a bivouac at mid point!
Good effort Chris!
-
Great effort. Grimage next. Then the full link? :strongbench:
-
Great effort. Grimage next. Then the full link? :strongbench:
Grimage must be the other end of the grade. Since the best Cave climber ever (Mr Robins) hasn't done the big one yet i think i'll save my energy...
-
Are you saying Bobins is better than Moon or Malc? I'll be seeing him tomorrow and will let him know, sure he'll be made up you think so highly of him :-*
-
Are you saying Bobins is better than Moon or Malc? I'll be seeing him tomorrow and will let him know, sure he'll be made up you think so highly of him :-*
He's the most acomplished Cave climber, 4 8bs you know and 2 of em FAs and pretty much everything else. I still don't think that highly of him, he's skinny not strong :w00t:
-
Are you saying Bobins is better than Moon or Malc? I'll be seeing him tomorrow and will let him know, sure he'll be made up you think so highly of him :-*
He's the most acomplished Cave climber, 4 8bs you know and 2 of em FAs and pretty much everything else. I still don't think that highly of him, he's skinny not strong :w00t:
Malc has done FA of Pilgrimage 8B+ - hardest problem in the Cave (and N Wales for that matter).
He has also repeated Director's Cut 8B and Louis Armstrong 8B.
King of the Cave? - I think Malc still retains the crown. Scottish Power trumps Sheffield Steel. :dance1:
-
He has done the hardest problem but Petes done nearly all of the 8as , 8a+s and 7s. I bet Malcolm hasn't done dustkick :P
-
I bet Malcolm hasn't done dustkick :P
Now that's what you call quality! I imagine Malc was just so spellbound by its awesome form that he could not bring himself to try it. And it's always best to have something to come back for...
-
He has done the hardest problem but Petes done nearly all of the 8as , 8a+s and 7s. I bet Malcolm hasn't done dustkick :P
That's right, I've witnessed him doing some of those 8b's and have seen vids of others ;D :whistle:
-
It's impossible for anyone other than Malc to be king of the cave.
-
People are just saying Malc cos he's a lot more likeable than Pete :tease:
-
Big Numbers Descend on The Diamond (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/big-numbers-descend-on-diamond.html)
12 October 2012, 6:23 pm
Pete Robins has ticked his Diamond project just in the nick of time! After battling with day after day of bad conditions he pulled through onto the juggy ground today to give the route a logical first belay. Pete had bolted the route to the top of the crag - a 30 metre monster. However the crag got wet after the deluge and never really recovered. I got this rather happy txt of the man of the moment: " Skin of my teeth!!! So good to have dry holds! So so relieved. Top was dripping unfortunately but not really bothered. Is this really happening?". Quite happy then it seems. The line in question does the first boulder problem of the Brute straight off the deck and then a big leftwards dyno leads to slots and tiny crimps. The first 6 bolts are so intense, Pete likened this section to doing a long Font 8a. After this a reasonable (?) shakeout is gained before more hard bouldering which leads to lots of jugs (but still on steep ground). From here the extension turns into a stam fest and blasts to the top on mainly good holds. Pete's route finishes slightly higher than the Brute belay.
Pete has been cranking in the area since 2009 climbing most the hard routes including the LPT 8c+ trilogy. He's done a couple of good FAs (Stiff Upper Lip Extension is probably the best) but he definitely had a reputation amongst us locals as being a bit bolt shy. It's more that we were imagining what we would bolt up if we had his ability. Pete Harrison put it to Pete early on in Diamond season and he explained that he didn't want to take a few days off climbing to bolt something as he was worried he'd lose fitness (obviously absurd). Pete's probing seemed to spur him on however and he was soon bolting his way down the Diamond to create an amazing project all of his own. I was quite shocked when i saw he'd pulled his finger out but he didn't mess about and his project was blatantly one of the best hard routes in Britain. Many sessions of effort and beta tweaking followed. Also as the best conditions started to become less regular he had to be patient and resolve himself to climbing on it when it was less than perfect. On the day i went to film him he used a block of chalk trying to dry the holds out. The man wanted it! Pete says his route (as yet unnamed) is likely 8c+ and that it will be half a grade harder to take it to the top for whoever fancies that. It is a great moment for the Diamond. It seems absurd given the steepness and obvious amount of hard lines but until last year the hardest route there was 8a+. The 8cs - 9as were staring us in the face but we needed someone good to get keen. I think this is just the start for this amazing crag, i'd love to see the topo in ten years! Despite it's obvious downsides the quality and inspiring nature of the routes means it should be a forcing ground for years to come.
Some video stills.
Nails first section:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wMP52TOusXk/UHhbtI31xII/AAAAAAAABvQ/Hl8Ne0d8zUg/s320/pete+proj1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wMP52TOusXk/UHhbtI31xII/AAAAAAAABvQ/Hl8Ne0d8zUg/s1600/pete+proj1.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0zmsvqY7uxY/UHhb6TYy9rI/AAAAAAAABvc/mHIxCPQ793Y/s320/peteproj2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0zmsvqY7uxY/UHhb6TYy9rI/AAAAAAAABvc/mHIxCPQ793Y/s1600/peteproj2.jpg)
2nd hard section:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABe4Sqy58GM/UHhcDK8-weI/AAAAAAAABvo/hL77vVqOyQc/s320/peteproj3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABe4Sqy58GM/UHhcDK8-weI/AAAAAAAABvo/hL77vVqOyQc/s1600/peteproj3.jpg)
It would seem that 8b and 8c+ are the hard grades to go for in North Wales. Come on beasts we need more 8b+/8cs!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7250441122845187032?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I still don't think that highly of him, he's skinny not strong :w00t:
Your not wrong. Don't have scales at home but weighed myself on Pete's the other night and I am heavier than him, no wonder he's cranking. (was pretty awesome watching it all yesterday, video to come...)
It would seem that 8b and 8c+ are the hard grades to go for in North Wales. Come on beasts we need more 8b+/8cs!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7250441122845187032?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
Bolted new 8b+ with 8c extension on thursday, you'll just have to battle with Ally S for it...
-
Good one. Keep em coming....
-
Big Numbers Descend on The Diamond (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/big-numbers-descend-on-diamond.html)
12 October 2012, 6:23 pm
Pete Robins has ticked his Diamond project just in the nick of time! After battling with day after day of bad conditions he pulled through onto the juggy ground today to give the route a logical first belay. Pete had bolted the route to the top of the crag - a 30 metre monster. However the crag got wet after the deluge and never really recovered. I got this rather happy txt of the man of the moment: " Skin of my teeth!!! So good to have dry holds! So so relieved. Top was dripping unfortunately but not really bothered. Is this really happening?". Quite happy then it seems. The line in question does the first boulder problem of the Brute straight off the deck and then a big leftwards dyno leads to slots and tiny crimps. The first 6 bolts are so intense, Pete likened this section to doing a long Font 8a. After this a reasonable (?) shakeout is gained before more hard bouldering which leads to lots of jugs (but still on steep ground). From here the extension turns into a stam fest and blasts to the top on mainly good holds. Pete's route finishes slightly higher than the Brute belay.
Pete has been cranking in the area since 2009 climbing most the hard routes including the LPT 8c+ trilogy. He's done a couple of good FAs (Stiff Upper Lip Extension is probably the best) but he definitely had a reputation amongst us locals as being a bit bolt shy. It's more that we were imagining what we would bolt up if we had his ability. Pete Harrison put it to Pete early on in Diamond season and he explained that he didn't want to take a few days off climbing to bolt something as he was worried he'd lose fitness (obviously absurd). Pete's probing seemed to spur him on however and he was soon bolting his way down the Diamond to create an amazing project all of his own. I was quite shocked when i saw he'd pulled his finger out but he didn't mess about and his project was blatantly one of the best hard routes in Britain. Many sessions of effort and beta tweaking followed. Also as the best conditions started to become less regular he had to be patient and resolve himself to climbing on it when it was less than perfect. On the day i went to film him he used a block of chalk trying to dry the holds out. The man wanted it! Pete says his route (as yet unnamed) is likely 8c+ and that it will be half a grade harder to take it to the top for whoever fancies that. It is a great moment for the Diamond. It seems absurd given the steepness and obvious amount of hard lines but until last year the hardest route there was 8a+. The 8cs - 9as were staring us in the face but we needed someone good to get keen. I think this is just the start for this amazing crag, i'd love to see the topo in ten years! Despite it's obvious downsides the quality and inspiring nature of the routes means it should be a forcing ground for years to come.
Some video stills.
Nails first section:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wMP52TOusXk/UHhbtI31xII/AAAAAAAABvQ/Hl8Ne0d8zUg/s320/pete+proj1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wMP52TOusXk/UHhbtI31xII/AAAAAAAABvQ/Hl8Ne0d8zUg/s1600/pete+proj1.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0zmsvqY7uxY/UHhb6TYy9rI/AAAAAAAABvc/mHIxCPQ793Y/s320/peteproj2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0zmsvqY7uxY/UHhb6TYy9rI/AAAAAAAABvc/mHIxCPQ793Y/s1600/peteproj2.jpg)
2nd hard section:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABe4Sqy58GM/UHhcDK8-weI/AAAAAAAABvo/hL77vVqOyQc/s320/peteproj3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ABe4Sqy58GM/UHhcDK8-weI/AAAAAAAABvo/hL77vVqOyQc/s1600/peteproj3.jpg)
It would seem that 8b and 8c+ are the hard grades to go for in North Wales. Come on beasts we need more 8b+/8cs!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7250441122845187032?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
looks mega, any plans for the footage?
-
Ye I've been working on a little film for the web. It's a slow process though. El Mocho will probably have the footage online soon unless I can convince him to give it me ha
-
Ye I've been working on a little film for the web. It's a slow process though.
looking forward to this when/if its done
-
Cave Life (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/cave-life.html)
17 October 2012, 7:12 pm
Well what can you say about Parisella's Cave! What makes some drive for hours for a day trip to sample its delights while others wouldn't piss on it if it was on fire? I think it's simple really, whereas the doubters may pour scorn on the rock quality and aesthetics the enlightened revel in the unique qualities of this grotty hole in the ground. There are a lot of hard problems in the Cave but it is the way they all connect is such a sustained fashion that make it a unique venue. Didn't Jamie Cassidy call it world class climbing "if you keep your eyes shut". And it's so true, the power endurance nature of the problems and the fantastic moves and largely friendly holds all combine to make it rather special. Throw into the mix the fact that more or less you can climb here all year and there is nearly always some dry rock to be had. The place has evolved beyond recognition from the days when Rockatrocity was a sit start from a big mound of earth.
A Brief History of Trigger Cut Trigger Cut is one of the most sought after testpieces in the Cave. It's the next rite of passage after Rockatrocity and Lou Ferrino. The problem was originally written up as Stuart's Problem (V12) in the early Northern Soul Fanzines. No one knew much about the line but the rumour was that the Scottish powerhouse Stuart Cameron had climbed something here. That fat tatooed broken fingered original Cave boy Chris Davies cornered Cameron along with Mr Panton at the Stick It launch party in Sheffield to see if he could remember what he did. He couldn't and Floppy eventually climbed the line and named it Trigger Cut and gave it V13. The problem came down to V12 with repeats from Steve Dunning and Rich Simpson. After a few years some keen boys (namely Neil Dyer, Malcolm Smith and Jamie Cassidy) got involved and worked out some easier beta and the dam began to break. A high right foot, an undercut and a left hand finish brought the problem down to 7c+/8a and the ascents started to mount up. This new beta would prove crucial for Jamie as he started trying the line from Lou Ferrino as a new Cave super link. He lived on inspiration while he was trying it and his problem (Director's Cut) showed what was possible for the strong and talented. For us casual observers we hadn't witnessed such impressive steep climbing waddageness on our own turf. Neil Dyer would eventually extend Director's to give Silk Cut and Halfway House (Trigger Cut from the Lou Ferrino ramp) became a popular problem in it's own right. One day a certain handsome weakling who was weighed down with a rather weighty schlong decided the move to the shothole was a bit tricky so he pushed his knee down from the right foothold and hey presto le statique! That was me and i would be forever remembered as the man who ruined Trigger Cut. A few years later another man wedged his knee down a move sooner and more recently the biggest weakling of all David Noden completed the kneebar rout by sticking it in straight away. What followed was much debate about what to do with the grade of TC and the links. With the knee you do the 3 hard moves with your leg and merely hold on with your arm. It was blatantly a lot easier. The Five Ten kneepad has made the knees even more bomber but the fair thing to do seemed to be to offer 2 grades as the knee were so specific not many people could use them. Trigger feels 7b+ to me now, 2 grades easier than without pads but strangely the links feel more like a grade less. Directors hasn't been done with pads yet but you're looking at probably mid-hard 8a+. Nodder did the first kneebarred FA, Broken Trigger which weighed in at 8a+ (or 8a with Knees). I repeated it yesterday, it was a bit of a long time nemesis for me but using the knee to get the crimp and the 5.10 pad helped me to finish it. Although not an obvious line (or obvious start) it's perhaps the best climbing i've done in there. So funky and interesting. Whether you knee or arm it Trigger Cut remains a classic Cave problem.
The Rest
Grading the Cave is probably Mr P's biggest headache with the guide. Despite the masses who go regularly opinion varies on a lot of problems. New holds by the arch seem to have brought The Highlife down to 7c+. It was definitely a bit harder when i did the FA. Another FA of mine Broken Sam has also been beta'd out but i'm not sure if it brings it a whole grade down, opinion varies. The standard for PE 8a is 7b+ into 7c (or 7c into 7b+). Cave Life and Pit of Hell are two typical 8as. Pilgrim weighs in at soft 8a+ IMO (7c into 7c). In Hell is probably smack bang in the middle of 8a+ though Ed Hamer and Dave Redpath actually found it easier than Pilgrim. In Life is probably soft 8a+ and In Heaven is still top of the grade. Greenheart remains one of the toughest 8a+s but a few slightly easier sequences do exist now from Pete and Nodder. The Wire is likely soft 8a+. Opinion seems to be divided on Bonnie (8a or 8a+). I'm too shit on it to comment but think it would get more ascents if it was 8a. Clyde seems a touch harder so 8a+. The 8b's seem pretty spot on, Silk Cut is no longer regarded as 8b+ (7a after 8b = 8b). East Coker is unrepeated, Daisy from Concrete is 8a (knees), 8a+ (without). And there you have it, why do people find grading so hard. It's actually piss :)
Video of Broken Trigger:
BREAKING NEWS:
Mike Hart has climbed a worthwhile new low Rockatrocity link. Beneath the wobbly block are some slopey holds and its likely that RA has been done from here before. Mike found a nice start right on the back wall that gives it a logical start. There is a undercut and a big sidepull. It's cool in that it comes out in a straight line. I expect the difficulty is similar to Pit of, perhaps a little easier. Nice one! an attempt:
The dog in the background is known as Hatch and the link is called Hatchatrocity!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8899449974644155970?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Dream Week (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/the-dream-week.html)
21 October 2012, 8:32 pm
After Pilgrim i was feeling good and keen to get something else hard done. You can never tell if you're just having a freak day sometimes when you do something. Little did i know i was about to embark on my best week of hard climbing ever! It all started on Sunday, Me and Matt got rained off the hills and the Orme so we had a session on his board. I had a set a problem a year ago up some wooden pinches. We named it after Gary Speed who had just died. I couldn't really do the last move and it represented a big step up on his board for me, Den 7b+. I had made it the goal for the Winter but i was having a good session so started trying the crux move. I managed to do it a few times and then from the start. Boom - Winter's training goal complete!
Vid:
Broken Trigger went down 1st RP on Tuesday, brilliant - another long termer in the bag. I had a rest day and did Hatchatrocity 2nd go on Thursday. Friday i got the rope out and went to Dinbren with Pete Harrison, i felt knackered but managed to scrape up one of the best 8a's on the crag Elite Syncopations. I almost powered out on the easier climbing at the top. I'd been there a few times to do it this year but was wet/too hot.
Lovely day in Eglywsyg:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gOXfbbL66oU/UILeX6BjlGI/AAAAAAAABwk/VgK5kgS1LhM/s320/dinbren+valley.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gOXfbbL66oU/UILeX6BjlGI/AAAAAAAABwk/VgK5kgS1LhM/s1600/dinbren+valley.jpg)
I didn't expect much yesterday 3rd day on but had planned to hit the hills with Dan Knight. We went to the Pass but couldn't park so quested on to Elephantitus. I thought it was going to be wet all the way there but it was suprisingly dry. After doing Elephantitus again (hard and sharp) we started trying Downset, a one move 8a:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iV2Unp5haq4/UILguQhyZfI/AAAAAAAABww/xKH5qwtjxuY/s320/downset.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iV2Unp5haq4/UILguQhyZfI/AAAAAAAABww/xKH5qwtjxuY/s1600/downset.jpg)It involves a big dyno to a good sloper on the lip and the feet make it hard to generate upward momentum. One move 8a isn't really my bag so i moved onto The Tusk which i couldn't really figure out (Cross Therapy is not 7c+ Nodder!!). We both had had enough so decided to try the Pass again to try the main objective for the day, Diesel Power. I'd done all the moves for the first time weeks ago and was ready to start redpoint's. After working it again we were ready to go from the start. Dan struggled with the first move for a bit and i had a really close go, slipping off the last tensiony move. I was psyched to top out before Dan as he's a 8b beast! Then Dan dropped the same move. It's horrific on the skin and mine was thin to start with. I swung about on the end but managed to top out. I looked at my thin tip and it was pissing with blood. Any other week and i would have slipped off that go and had to stop. But the stars were in alignment this week and it finished on a high. Dan got it next go (in a session) and we went home happy. I found myself wondering what had caused such an upturn in form. I hadn't done any special training or diet. In fact I'd put weight on! I think it's just culmination of trying hard all year. If you bang your head against a wall long enough a few bricks will crumble eventually i guess. Diesel is only my 3rd 'bloc' 8a, it's definitely the hardest as the other two were soft for the grade. It's problems like this I'm really keen to get better on. I know i can do PE climbing but to get better on the hard sport routes round here i need to be better on hard moves. Five bits of 8a climbing in a week was pretty sweet and I'll savour it for a long time. Time for work, rest and wondering when I'll turn shit again.
Some decent footage of Diesel from Kieran King:
Diesel Power 8a (http://vimeo.com/51824187) from Kieran King (http://vimeo.com/user7615802) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-6722051903936457527?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Good work Doylo! Like you say, sometimes things just happen. Always good when you get the weather to make the most of it. :great:
-
Shitting hell maybe you've come across the energy and motivation which has seeped out of me into the ether. Enduring my lowest ebb ever, just scraped up a 6c FA on red meat wall, wouldn't have had the energy for a second go!
-
Your problem is the guidebook. It happened with Mr P and his first book.
-
Enduring my lowest ebb ever, just scraped up a 6c FA on red meat wall, wouldn't have had the energy for a second go!
I would be happy to scrape up a 6c right now. Struggling to get inspired to start at the bottom rung again after hardly climbing since early June.
-
Ty Newydd Seasonal Restrictions (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/10/ty-newydd-seasonal-restrictions.html)
31 October 2012, 9:50 pm
Somewhat predictably the farmer at Ty Newydd has asked for the Friday/Saturday ban at Ty Newydd to extend to every day from 1st October to 31st January. More at theBMC (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/ty-newydd-crag--access-suspended). It's not a disaster to lose access in winter. Spread the word.
I've not been quite as psyched as i was but had nice day in the Pass trying Love Pie and the Lotus. Vid of Jee doing Love Pie:
I managed to do the Hatch start into Cave Life, was nice to go that way across the arch again after all these years. The jurys still out on whether Rocka has been done before from that start but its unlikely Cave Life has. It's still 8a anyway but feels a little less brutal to me than finishing up RA. My arms were melted on Left Wall so it'll take a good day to do it into the high. Ducko pulled a bit of the starting undercut off making it slightly harder.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-2577818388143799163?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
I though you did Pilgrim?
-
that's left to right John, might as well be another crag :devangel:
-
that's left to right John, might as well be another crag :devangel:
;D
-
Lightweight 2nd ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/lightweight-2nd-ascent.html)
4 November 2012, 7:14 pm
Me and Dan went up to Craig Pont-y-Pant (aka Rhiw Goch) yesterday for some steep board style action. I was trying Mules sitter to Ride the Wild Smurf which goes at 7c+. The crux is the first move which is a nails violent slap into a backhand off a sharp crimp. I've got a sequence on the rest of it but the first move is desperate and i didn't manage it. Back to linking 'tricky moves' for me i think. Hard moves still feel hard! Dan was trying Lightweight which is a 8a variation on Poppy's Move. Lightweight was actually done after Poppy's and in truth is the true line as it's the easiest way to climb it. It utilises a small sharp crimp which Floppy missed when he did Poppy's. Poppy's is essentially an eliminate now. Despite the good forecast the showers kept stopping play frustratingly but Dan kept psyched and finally hit the right bit of the lip and held the swing. The topout was wet and slimey but he flopped onto the top.
Pics:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iduPax-hrmE/UJa6_wt5dbI/AAAAAAAABxM/pSzuQZK_Zkk/s320/photo.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iduPax-hrmE/UJa6_wt5dbI/AAAAAAAABxM/pSzuQZK_Zkk/s1600/photo.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6y0sHT-Tij4/UJa7ONdekmI/AAAAAAAABxY/YsQaWbp-QjU/s320/photo%25281%2529.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6y0sHT-Tij4/UJa7ONdekmI/AAAAAAAABxY/YsQaWbp-QjU/s1600/photo%25281%2529.JPG)
Vid:
Barrows did Halfway House and Daisy From Concrete in the Cave. We both reckon Halfway could be 7c+ now with paddage. I believe Nodder also thinks that might be the case.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7457054144374638295?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Funny video :)
-
This looks absolute class. Nice work.
-
looks like a mini momento
-
looks like a mini momento
The first ascentionist of this is good at waffling too :lol:
-
First Kneebarred Ascent of Directors Cut (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/first-kneebarred-ascent-of-directors-cut.html)
11 November 2012, 9:15 pm
I feel sick typing a blog about Alex Barrows but i have to be unbiased as Orme reporter and despite the fact that he cheated and all the problems are no more than 7c with his trickery here goes... The lanky cunt made short work of the hardcore Cave classic Directors Cut utilizing the kneebars and a swanky kneepad. Directors in its original form has always been in the thick end of 8b. As i previously mentioned the kneebars make the crux moves of Trigger pretty solid so it was always a matter of time before someone tall did Directors with them. To add insult to injury Barrows worked out a no hands rest at the end of Lou Ferrino. All this brings the problem down to soft 8a+ although i'm not sure many will be able to get his Lou Ferrino rest. He got the problem in 2 sessions of redpoints but last weekend did Halfway and Daisy From Concrete. He also did Greenheart with a new sequence, similar to the one Pete Robins uses when he tried Pilgrimage. This involves rolling over to the Trigger Cut starting hold and slapping down and right with another knee. He reckoned this was worth 8a with his rest. To cap his weekend he did Broken Trigger, it seems he's finally found a bouldering outlet for his sport fitness! Nice work!
I had a good sesh at Tremeirchion with the dog. A few weeks ago i had a breakthrough on the sitter to 36 Chambers, i finally got a sequence for the sitter moves and climbed into the stand. Yesterday i was keen for some redpoints but struggled with one move on the stand. It was piss off the ladder but tricky from the deck. We both did 22 Chambers which goes from the same sit start and is mega. This is a tough 7c like 36. Amazing problems and lime. Some footage:
The crux move of 22 Chambers:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h4ViEVG9h-Q/UKAU-wfFSjI/AAAAAAAABxw/K0TDlt5Ch-c/s320/photo%25282%2529.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h4ViEVG9h-Q/UKAU-wfFSjI/AAAAAAAABxw/K0TDlt5Ch-c/s1600/photo%25282%2529.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7207992390235661851?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Big posh lanky cunt...... :ras:
-
Midget pleb
-
Good tune on that video. You better get 36 SS done soon, doesn't look like any kneebar potential in that.
-
Good tune on that video. You better get 36 SS done soon, doesn't look like any kneebar potential in that.
I wouldn't put it past them...
-
Dan Knight Destroys The Gop (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/dan-knight-destroys-gop.html)
19 November 2012, 12:12 am
Dan Knight returned to his favourite Welsh crag yesterday and left with 3 FAs. By his own admission the Gop suits Dan's climbing down to a tee. On his first visit he did both the 8a's in not very many goes and he also did the FA of a hard project which became Paper Birds 8a+ after half a dozen sessions. Yesterday he started off by climbing Mule's old project, the sit start to the crag classic Push The Button. Push The Button is a soft 8a and Dan reckoned although the low start added 3 or 4 moves it didn't warrant an extra grade and was likely hard 8a. Mule reckoned it would be 8a+ but he had a harder sequence on PTB (as per usual). He was feeling good so he moved onto the low start to Smoke a Bloke. Smoke a Bloke is a wicked, nails one move 7b+ (or more likely 7c!!). Danny used to try the direct low start and it looked nails. Dan managed it from the Blokesmoker Low start (just to the right) much to his surprise, he had pencilled it in as a long term project. Then he capped his day by doing the direct low start! Trying to get a grade estimation out of him was like trying to get blood out of a stone, he meekly replied 8a to me. Top British boulderer Ned Feehally visited the Gop last week and tried the Blokesmoker start. He reckoned it was pretty tough, maybe even 8b so it seems unlikely that it's 8a. Ned also tried Paper Birds but couldn't do the nails first move. Dan admitted that he felt he had reached the next level and he has climbed 8b before so its likely that these problems are pretty damn tricky! Nice one la
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1X99sAz0XDQ/UKl2OoDicBI/AAAAAAAAByI/fvUFqEhCipM/s320/dan+gop.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1X99sAz0XDQ/UKl2OoDicBI/AAAAAAAAByI/fvUFqEhCipM/s1600/dan+gop.jpg)
Lankmaster Barrows returned to the Orme this weekend. Check out the footage of him resting his way up Directors from last time:
Some attempts on Director's Cut (8a+?) in Parisella's, also footage of Broken Heart (7c+) (http://vimeo.com/53279856) from Alex Barrows (http://vimeo.com/user11693449) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Watching him in the Cave makes me feel 50% sickened and 50% impressed. It's a shame to see such historical hardcore pieces of climbing devalued in a way but on the other hand the technical knees are definitely pretty cool. I'm just glad the vast majority will never be able to get them. He did The Wire this weekend, shaking out where i'm in bulk. I normally get slagged off for lanking stuff but this guy gives me short mans syndrome! I can get through the hard Broken Heart moves most goes but power out on the hard moves before the jugs. If your left leg fits you can shake off your right knee and then stick the left in and move to the jugs. Oh well, i'll just need to get a bit fitter. Today he managed Drink Driving - on the two crux moves he could keep his feet really low on good holds rather than having to put them in the break like everyone else. Unsurprisingly he thought it was 8a like this (it is bottom end anyway). It seems we have two options, either downgrade nearly every 8a and 8a+ on the Orme for giants with good knee skills or we can just write a separate guide for Barrows. I'd go for the latter.
Good Orme 7a:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-8617150816672605105?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Tramps Tea Party (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/tramps-tea-party.html)
21 November 2012, 4:21 pm
I did a project on the Orme today that i've been playing on all year. Up past Elephants Cave is an old eliminate wall known as the Sugar Lump. This place was quite popular with the North Wales bouldering mafia in the 90s and it even featured in the 97 Rockfax in the bouldering section. It is pretty terrible in modern terms but there is one line on the big block just beneath. I'd been up there a few times but it wasn't until Craig 'Ducko' Davies took me up there that i got keen for the line. The one downside was that the local rough eggs had lit a fire under it and made it black. I was not deterred however and started scrubbing it to bring it back to life. To start with the slopey grips were greasy but soon it was grease free and it was often windy up there so quite good for conditions. I got nowhere to start with, i had hoped it would be about 7c but it soon became apparent it was much harder. I could only do the last few moves and the start seemed particularly hard. I left it as route season came but still had the occasional session. A turning point occurred when i took Neil Dyer up there. Not only did he help me with some beta but he got excited about moving a massive block that was wedged into the apex. The block did detract from the problem somewhat and it was hard not to dab it. I went back up a few weeks later and i couldn't believe my eyes when i saw it had been moved! It could only be one man! I still don't know how he did it, he must have rigged up some chain blocks on a tree or something. I knew that Neil had no designs on the problem himself, he just liked the challenge and wanted to help a mate. What a guy! Pritch standing on the block:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3XY8VhdFyww/UKz6dCStdXI/AAAAAAAAByg/qxWaiIWYCqk/s320/pritch+block.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3XY8VhdFyww/UKz6dCStdXI/AAAAAAAAByg/qxWaiIWYCqk/s1600/pritch+block.JPG)
Anyway the problem was now much improved and armed with two 5.10 kneepads the beta for the middle started to come together. I'd never been on a climb like it, it seemed that every session i went i found some new trick. Despite the end of the climb coming together the start still alluded me and i genuinely didn't know if i could do it. I'd actually done the hand moves but couldn't link the positions with my feet. It got wet after the Autumn deluge and my form went through the roof. I went back to it optimistic and i was now strong enough and although i felt great on the end i still couldn't do the bloody start. Last Saturday the breakthrough came and i got through the move. I climbed all the way to the end and fell off the last tricky move to a jug. Whoop, it was on and i was ecstatic that all my efforts were going to have the desired outcome. I went back on Monday really hopeful but my body seemed to have a dip and just felt knackered for no real reason. This happened a few weeks ago, everything just ached and i just didn't have enough zing in my arms for the end. I didn't feel much better today but thought i might have a chance if i got it in a few goes. I sat down at the start and a really good feeling came over me. I soon found myself staring at the jug pocket, it was one of those 50/50 moments. I'd been there many times before and managed to finish it. I was extremely satisfied, meaty new problems like this on the limestone are very rare indeed and it was nice to do something independent (none link up) in a different area. I normally prefer climbing with other people as it motivates me more but i had a great time up there on my own just beavering away on the problem. Despite the broken glass etc.. it is a good spot to climb. The problem took 14 sessions but only 3 of those were spent redpointing. It felt like hard 8a when i was working it but i think if you went there with the beta it would feel easier. I don't even think the start is that bad now, once i did it once i could do it every go. It's just one of the things you encounter on FA's. I think what makes it is that is starts on a really obvious jug and it finishes on a juggy ledge. I'm half tempted not to post the video as i know everyone will go an piss it with the beta i spent days and days working out but that's bad spirit so here it is:
Pics:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-24liYQmxrG4/UKz7H3lGKwI/AAAAAAAABys/HkBPGiEWHfQ/s320/pricth+tramps.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-24liYQmxrG4/UKz7H3lGKwI/AAAAAAAABys/HkBPGiEWHfQ/s1600/pricth+tramps.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0tmfpL_6S3w/UKz7l7zqySI/AAAAAAAABy4/S_89t2BV-KY/s320/pricth+tramps2.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0tmfpL_6S3w/UKz7l7zqySI/AAAAAAAABy4/S_89t2BV-KY/s1600/pricth+tramps2.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0juudfPCEk/UKz8EoeUKHI/AAAAAAAABzE/VYCSFty3EXs/s320/metramps2.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0juudfPCEk/UKz8EoeUKHI/AAAAAAAABzE/VYCSFty3EXs/s1600/metramps2.JPG)
Once again, cheers Ding Dong!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-7900770246521357560?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Looks good!
-
Nice one Arnold, there's a few to many knee barrows being used for my liking now tho
-
Good work mate, excellent shiz.
-
Nice one Chris, good skills. I remember projecting that warm up traverse when I lived on the Orme cos it was in the rockfax. I was always gripped about bumping into the characters living round there and in the cave at lower empire before they put the fence in.
-
Psyched to try this! Got an approach description for those of us who only know how to find the cave and pill box?
-
Psyched to try this! Got an approach description for those of us who only know how to find the cave and pill box?
Try this... http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1574 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1574)
Chris, great stuff :weakbench:. Reckon it will withstands tomorrows deluge and not gop out?
-
It rarely receives rain so should be fine tomorrow, good effort chris amazing what happens when you stop eating to many pastries
-
Richie, I was too scared to have night sessions there! Barrows hopefully you won't ruin it, that's why I spent so long on it to make sure I didn't miss anyhing ;). Elephants cave is up the road that leads to the ski slope. Ie up past Parisella's cafe. There is a Layby on the left with space for 2 cars. Walk past the caves and the you will come to the bouldering. Jordan it is quite reliable, takes a lot if rain before it seeps. You can climb there ok with a bit of rain too.
-
Nice one Arnold, there's a few to many knee barrows being used for my liking now tho
It's allowed on FAs shag
-
takes a lot if rain before it seeps. You can climb there ok with a bit of rain too.
Even the day or two after 15-20mm of rain??
That block looks Massive!! Neil is a legend!!
-
That block looks Massive!! Neil is a legend!!
The best thing about the block removal is that Neil didn't tell anybody (including Doylo), he just did it on the quiet as a favour to make the problem better. What a winner!
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Ding%20Dong%20handstand_5105.jpg)
-
takes a lot if rain before it seeps. You can climb there ok with a bit of rain too.
Even the day or two after 15-20mm of rain??
That block looks Massive!! Neil is a legend!!
It took the 3 day September deluge to get it wet but then it took ages to dry. It's worth going just to see Dyers block. Seriously impressive!
-
I might have to get neil up here with some block moving savvy. Does he do the work in exchange for hard projects? Or does he need food and shelter too.
-
Just kiss his bicep and watch him go...
-
Hatch Life High (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/11/hatch-life-high.html)
24 November 2012, 6:21 pm
Pete Robins did the obvious connection of Hatch Life into Left Wall High today. This really needed doing and gives 3 nice starts for LWH-In Heaven (8a+), HLH (hard 8a) and The Highlife (7c+??). The Hatch start still goes fine without the undercut and Pete dug it out a bit with a shovel, how glamorous! Earlier on Pete did the second ascent of Tramp's Tea Party using some different beta. Although he admitted it suited him i could tell he thought it was alright. Let's see what others say about the grade. Caff even said it was 3 stars but we managed to knock him down to 2. Not bad praise though from someone who's just come back from Yosemite. Pete also did a new 8a in the Ogwen yesterday up at Gallt-yr-Ogof. I expect news of this will be on NWB next week.
Vid of the Cave link:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-5958885512065668505?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Back to The Training Board (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/12/back-to-training-board.html)
6 December 2012, 11:39 am
Every winter i tell myself that i'm going to train like a beast and come out in Spring and blitz the sport routes. For several reasons it never quite happens and i always find myself lamenting another missed opportunity. The main reason is that to train properly you have to curtail your outdoor sessions a bit and i find that hard to do. I love climbing on a board but i love climbing outside a lot more. I find it hard to do any training when i get in from the crag and i don't like feeling tired when i'm on the crag. Last winter i pottered about outside (only climbed 7c), did little training and was still ok in spring. I feel like my recent ticks have set me free in a way. I managed 4 years of bouldering ticks in 6 weeks, plus the FA i really wanted so don't feel so guilty about going inside now. Plus i'm definitely out of my purple patch now (probably due to an expanding winter waistline) so don't feel like i can keep crushing in the 8's. Every time i see one of those wads training videos i feel a tinge of guilt. I'm trying to achieve my potential at a sport with minimal proper effort. I know climbing is training but know how much i could benefit from a few pull ups and a deadhang regime. I figure if i can climb F8b/+ and 8a boulders by pottering about outside i could improve with some effort. I'm a lazy twat though so these grandiose plans may come to nothing.
I have been out to Ogwen a few times. I managed to do Pit Traverse, a classy 7c that i've always fancied. I failed on Pit and the Pendulum 7b though, seemed nails. Yesterday i was up at Lily Savage, it was too cold and a bit seepy. I tried a project up there and failed to repeat Paul o Grady (punter!). Hosey B style proj giveaway, right of Lily Savage:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LNDtdHdpNDQ/UMCBO5Vq90I/AAAAAAAABzc/b1MTmpBYM34/s320/photo%25284%2529.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LNDtdHdpNDQ/UMCBO5Vq90I/AAAAAAAABzc/b1MTmpBYM34/s1600/photo%25284%2529.JPG)
Vid of Alex despatching Paul o Grady:
The best 7b in North Wales fo sho!
Then i played on The Spawn 7c+, i'd never even seen this Katz problem and was suitably impressed. I can't believe it's had so few ascents actually as it's one of the better hard problems if you ask me, very Swiss-esque. The start is super steep and there's plenty of beta options. I'm definitely keen to try this again to see if i can work out a sequence.
Jordan made a flying visit to repeat Tramps which he did with minimal bother. I think it's going to end up as 7c+ which is ironic to me as i've never been so sure about the grade of an FA. On the other hand for once i don't actually care, i'm still relieved that i managed it after all that effort.
Vid:
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/351783080688855920-1902904189874536424?l=doylosblog.blogspot.com)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Oooh :bounce:
I got a name check! :-[
Does that mean an esoteric wonder destined to be forever ignored, or an auto burial service?
-
Not esoteric! A good hard problem for someone...
-
Nice to see appropriate use of the Hosey B brand
:whistle:
-
West Coast Gimps (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/12/west-coast-gimps.html)
20 December 2012, 10:01 pm
After finishing uni in 2004 i embarked on a epic climbing trip to the US with some fellow loons. The following 3 months were unforgettable, of course there was lots of quality climbing and amazing ascents but there were also lots of epics along the way. I managed to capture a fair few ascents (and epics) on my little camera. On my return i was living with Some Climbers hard gritter Dan Honneyman and he let me use his PC to put together the film. I got some covers printed out and managed to flog a few on UKB. It went down pretty well and they kept trickling out to across Britain and beyond for a few years to come. It was especially nice sending them abroad. These days i don't watch it much but whenever i do it makes me smile. It was the kind of trip that won't happen again. Everyone's too old, with girlfriends, jobs etc.. Anyway it crossed my mind that i should get it online to keep it alive. I considered a torrent but i preferred to have it more easily accessible so i upgraded my Vimeo account so i could upload it. It's pretty long, is very immature but hopefully people will still enjoy it 7 years later. It the greatest achievement of my amateur film career! Enjoy:
West Coast Gimps (http://vimeo.com/55949380) from Chris Doyle (http://vimeo.com/user1898792) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
Some other bits. A relic of North Wales bouldering that is actually dead. I don't think Mr P's intro in the old Northern Soul coastal crags pamphlet can be beat:
A strange place to climb you might think; so close to a busy road, so devoid of traditional ambience; so fucking hardcore. The initial assault on your senses might send you scampering back to the mountains and pretty views. that is, if you fail to notice just how perfect this crag is. Believe me once you've gotten stuck into one of the many superb redpoint links you'll be so absorbed that you won't even notice the passing of the world beyond the confines of this magic little garden.
:
Another from the archive, Irish Si doing Gaia:
And a nice 7a down Pigeons beach:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Aehm, I wadded you for "WWG". Is it the title of your next film?
-
I still rate WWG as my favourite climbing film - up there with Hard Grit. A great combination of low comedy, high drama and keen aesthetics. The combination of music and imagery in the Buttermilks "Jedi Mind Tricks" sequence still sticks in my mind, as does the dark terror-drive across the Utah salt flat. One of the only climbing films with a feeling of overall coherence, and as a result, one of the only climbing films that makes you empathize with the protagonists - from a travesty of justice in Yosemite, to vehicular mishaps, and ill-timed flappers.... Think I'll have to dig out my copy......
-
Cheers Moose, I remember you were probably the most complimentary 7 years ago! Glad you still rate it...
-
Mid Winter Blues (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2012/12/mid-winter-blues.html)
28 December 2012, 9:19 pm
The mid winter blues have really kicked in - this really is the worst time to live in North Wales! Summer was extremely wet but this time of year is even worse, it's so grey and dreary. I miss climbing routes and the buzz of the sport scene. Everyone is hibernating and the hustle and bustle of the Orme scene is a distant memory. I've been fantasizing about warm afternoons down LPT just as the crag is coming into the shade. Ahhh.... I miss the endorphins and to add insult to injury i'm very heavy and so pulling down is now too hard. In truth i've lost my zest but need to think for the future and get training. It's good to have some down time in the year and i certainly don't need to be a beast in December. I went down Pigeon's last week. The pebbles are quite low and we climbed some great roof problems on the ladder wall. These deserve recording IMO, the two we did were like the left wall of Angel Bay but better. Mule repeated Fourteen Years Later and Limehouse, 7c:
I've uploaded a few more of my old films to Vimeo.
This one's from Hueco in 2007:
Best of the Westies (http://vimeo.com/56370587) from Chris Doyle (http://vimeo.com/user1898792) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
It's ever so slightly racy but no where near as bad as my first effort from 2003, Stonedlove. If anyone thinks they can handle this i will give them the password but i warn you it's not for the easily offended and is very immature indeed. We were young though :).
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:please: could I get the password?
-
Should start dry-tooling, I've been out almost daily new-routing nah nah nah :tease:
-
Maybe I should try, sounds like a pot belly doesn't stop you dry tooling :weakbench:
-
It's never stopped you bouldering? :P
-
Ten of The Best (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/01/ten-of-best.html)
2 January 2013, 2:45 pm
Bouldering on the Great Orme has been made famous by the often maligned Parisellas Cave. The Cave is an important and popular venue (people don't travel hours to get here for nothing) but there are plenty of gems on the Orme that i think are often overlooked. Most of these have better rock and are more aesthetically pleasing than Parisellas. I went out to the high sunny walls crag yesterday to try this (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=634) - A superb old school wall on brilliant limestone that has never seen any attention. I thought it would be good to do a ten of the best list of none Cave problems to hopefully inspire people to broaden their horizons!
Tramps Tea Party, 7c+, Elephants Cave
I've blogged about this quite a bit recently so won't say too much. A good, funky addition. Had two repeats already and a downgrade!
Swing of Fire, 7b, Breck Road
A superb and radical limestone boulder problem. A massive roof is crossed using an undercut at the back before the frustrating and brilliant 'swing' move. Seems unlikely for the grade:
Bellpig, 7c, Split Infinity
Unlikely and very satisfying when you hit every slap. There's more to limestone than just pulling down!
At 1:19:
Snout,7c,Norman's Wisdom
A powerful line through a steep roof that still hasn't seen many repeats. When Danny C was still a rock climber.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ycGclEqfgXE/UOQ_sdPq1II/AAAAAAAABz8/jlvX4FxOXow/s320/Snout+2+280.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ycGclEqfgXE/UOQ_sdPq1II/AAAAAAAABz8/jlvX4FxOXow/s1600/Snout+2+280.jpg)
Ain't No Party Like a Pill Box Party,7a+,Pill Box Wall
Jump start then lovely limestone holds direct up the steep wall. Climb up to easy ground and jumpy onto the box for the full tick. Good fun from the links too.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VpF3T6SFoL8/UORAxmya7PI/AAAAAAAAB0M/zdO4mAdAp3A/s320/Ain%2527t+no+party+2+280%25281%2529.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VpF3T6SFoL8/UORAxmya7PI/AAAAAAAAB0M/zdO4mAdAp3A/s1600/Ain%2527t+no+party+2+280%25281%2529.jpg)At 1:28:
Where's My Hippo?,7a,Pill Box Area
A really satisfying 7a that was rediscovered by rediscoverer Ben Farley. Some lovely holds.
vid:
Fourteen Years Later, 7c?, Pigeons Beach
A true board style problem with some great powerful climbing and a top out to boot. Worth the effort! Conditions dependent and tidal.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuieX42lpJw/UORCwROQp1I/AAAAAAAAB0s/BDp2C310NEY/s320/IMG_1147.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuieX42lpJw/UORCwROQp1I/AAAAAAAAB0s/BDp2C310NEY/s1600/IMG_1147.JPG)
3:12:
Flashpoint,7b+, Sea View Walls
Probably the best new problem i've done. High overhanging wall with jug, tufa and committing finish. Would have a permanent queue if was roadside and perma dry. Major flaw - needs a dry spell. Perhaps the best problem on the Orme?
1:31:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6L2YZJXLHlY/UOREUOynq_I/AAAAAAAAB1E/WmdkXy-3yCA/s320/Flashpoint+3+280.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6L2YZJXLHlY/UOREUOynq_I/AAAAAAAAB1E/WmdkXy-3yCA/s1600/Flashpoint+3+280.jpg)
The Spray,8a,West Shore
Really THE grade 8 bloc of the Orme. Impressive short, pure line on a freestanding boulder. Extremely tensiony and burly first move. FA by the Mule when he was going really well and potentially 8a+. Proper bouldering, 3 moves. Really deserves the attention of some beasts:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hF3OwGJE4P4/UORFXdwnWtI/AAAAAAAAB1U/ejuujoH3V94/s320/The+Spray+1+280_8359.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hF3OwGJE4P4/UORFXdwnWtI/AAAAAAAAB1U/ejuujoH3V94/s1600/The+Spray+1+280_8359.jpg)
Silence of The Trams,7b, High West Shore
Located on the sunny walls above the road on the back of the Orme this was recently put up by Ben Farley. Different from the other problems on the list as it is slightly on the other side of vertical and old school in style. Essentially one move off a piss poor (but sublime) sloper. Perhaps 7a+ (?) but would undoubtedly feel harder in summer.
Vid:
Nicest hold?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XY4-dihvh04/UORHfS6OxcI/AAAAAAAAB10/meLCvdrSYq4/s320/photo%25285%2529.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XY4-dihvh04/UORHfS6OxcI/AAAAAAAAB10/meLCvdrSYq4/s1600/photo%25285%2529.JPG)
Thanks to NWB for some of the pics.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Training Life (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/01/training-life.html)
27 January 2013, 4:39 pm
I haven't blogged much of late - i haven't been climbing outside much and there has been nothing newsworthy to report. I'm pretty pleased with myself however as i've finally managed to get in the training groove. I always doubted whether i could curtail my rock obsession in the short term to get some bigger gains in the long term. The weather was terrible in December so there wasn't much of a decision to be made. My form hit a big low - a combination of not doing much and hitting the dreaded 12 stone mark- over half a stone up on Summer. Some people panic when they get over there fighting weight and immediately act to do something about it. At this time of year i couldn't care less and the sensible strategy for me seemed to be train heavy then slim down in route season. I wasn't climbing on rock much anyway so didn't need to be on top form and if i could get strong at this weight the eventual weight loss would surely have a greater impact. After a few demoralising board sessions my form started to improve. Ben Pritch had been raving about a weighted deadhang regime he had done in summer so i thought i might aswell give it a go. It only takes 30 minutes twice a week and is fairly painless. I did get stronger after a few weeks and was back up to doing some of the usual's on the board despite my obscene waistline. I'm working away now but Kendal Wall is only 45 minutes away. The training room has a 30 degree board full of wood and resin nubbins for feet. At first i was a bit dismissive of it but after climbing on it i reckon it's perfect training for British lime. So my immediate future looks to be an indoor one while i sit the winter out and hopefully get some spondoolees in. As long as injuries keep away i should be in form come the Spring. I have been outside a few times ticking a 7b+ and 7c link on the Box that i'd never done. Today we glued the Rockatrocity foothold back on so if the resin does it's job it should be there for many moons to come.
So i doubt they'll be much acitivity on the blog until warmer times when we can go all down to this amazing place:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-25p1mAZZaXo/UQVXfl0NclI/AAAAAAAAB2M/BW__YCgYOmI/s320/photo%25287%2529.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-25p1mAZZaXo/UQVXfl0NclI/AAAAAAAAB2M/BW__YCgYOmI/s1600/photo%25287%2529.JPG)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Pilgrimage 2nd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/pilgrimage-2nd-ascent.html)
5 March 2013, 9:01 pm
Alex Barrows has made quick work of Malc Smiths Pilgrimage in Parisellas. Pilgrimage (or The Big Link as it was always referred to) is a historic piece of Welsh climbing. In the early 90s long before the Cave was a popular and recognised bouldering destination an in-form Ben Moon got close to making the FA. The problem was written up in the first Northern Soul despite being a project and its legend grew in Cave circles. In 2004 legendary strong man Malcolm Smith invested considerable time and money (1000 pounds worth of fuel driving down from Scotland) and made the first ascent of the link at 8b+ or F9a. Over the years it has repelled would be repeaters such as Danny Cattell, Mark Katz, Gaz Parry and even Pete Robins who has done most of the links in there. Although all the moves are achievable for many the main undercut crux section is hideous after climbing the first half. Barrows has put the time into the Cave recently and has found kneebars on most of the links he has done. The rubber pads have resulted in the most minor of knee scums being utilised to bypass otherwise pretty burly moves. His sequence on Pilgrimage is quite something. He knees down on the arch to get into RA. At the start of RA he shakes out with a kneebar. The first serious move on Pilgrimage is getting your left hand into the penultimate pocket on Rocka. Here Barrows walks his feet round, gets a knee in and shuffles his left hand into the pocket. Then he rolls over to the Trigger Cut starting hold a la Malc and at the undercuts crux he walks his right knee into a knee bar and here he can get a almost no hands rest before the finish up Beaver Cleaver . Barrows reckons his sequence is worth 8c+. I think most people who have a affinity to the harder problems in the Cave will feel slightly saddened about these classic hard links being made easier. They've always been such meaty, inspiring challenges. It's not quite the same seeing them climbed with shakeouts at various points. Having said that they are still meaty bits of climbing and i for one still don't think the majority will take their kneepads to the Cave. The kneebars on Trigger Cut have been known about for years and still most try it without. Barrows kneebars in particular are so leg length specific and tricky that they will never be popular. All of this creates a nightmare for guidebook editors (poor Mr P). Anyway Spring has nearly sprung, its almost time to get the rope out!
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Cracking effort from Barrows!
The "problem" is so long it's not even a boulder problem, it's technically a route and I for one would never climb a route in an eliminate style. I don't see the problem with the knee-bars, good on him for finding them!
Bring on the sport season!
-
Anyway Spring has nearly sprung, its almost time to get the rope out!
Shhh, that kind of talk can only result in the heavens opening and bring about 6 months of rain.
.....oh, :oops:
-
The "problem" is so long it's not even a boulder problem, it's technically a route and I for one would never climb a route in an eliminate style.
I agree, powerband is a piece of crap!
-
Denbigh Quarry (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/denbigh-quarry.html)
16 March 2013, 1:27 pm
Over the last year or so Ryan Mcconnell, Luke Owens and friends have been developing a sweet little crag near the castle in Denbigh. Like the Dyserth crags this has been climbed on before on trad and top rope but the boys have been putting up some very nice bolted routes. The rock is interesting and featured and quite slopey in places. Last week Luke topped developments with a great looking new 7b:
Force Majeure - 7b - First Ascent (http://vimeo.com/61452253) from Luke Owens (http://vimeo.com/user10510082) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).
The crag will feature in the forthcoming North Wales Lime guide but for a few more details check out Lukes blog (http://lukeowens.blogspot.co.uk/).
As sport season (hopefully) approaches here's one from last year. Some phone camera footage of Pete Robins repeating Corinthian Groove (8b) on the Orme:
Below average temperatures are forecast until mid April so unless you catch Malham or Dinbren on a sunny day there's not much fun to be had on a rope for the wimps.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Cheers Chris!
-
Curse or a Blessing? (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/04/curse-or-blessing.html)
5 April 2013, 1:07 pm
Sometimes i question the merits of having an all consuming obsession like climbing in your life. For myself and many people i know it is apparent that once climbing became something far beyond what you would simply class as a 'hobby' then inevitably it would be to the detriment of other aspects of life. I'm 30, have little in the way of financial security;I don't own my own house, have no pension or significant savings. Of course getting the balance right is key to having a fulfilling life. To achieve your sporting dreams and aspirations whilst furthering your life by more standard parameters is a tricky ask for the majority. Dream climbing ticks for the average human won't sustain you in later life or provide you with a good standard of living. So obviously the key is balance and plenty of people manage to get the balance right. I think humans who have been 'lucky' enough to find something that they find truly exhilarating are in a way cursed. The mind will be dependent on a repeated buzz to truly feel alive. The mind drudging monotony of a normal boring routine will be a proverbial vampire for the soul. So many people i meet just want to 'get ahead'. Work, work, work, achieve financial security, retire, die. The latter option befalls so many and it is this i want to avoid. Anyway onto some climbing!
North Wales has many superb boulder problems spread amongst its diverse array of crags. There are significantly less that i would class as exceptional i.e. they would hold their own at some of the global top areas. Recently the exceptional list has been bolstered. Pete Robins has put up several pearlers in Ogwen including a recent new (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=652) 8b extension to Danny Le Rue. There are IMO half a dozen or so problems that deserve this classification but one of the best i've seen is Nodder's new (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=641) problem Roof of Baby Buddha 7c+ just outside Betws-y-Coed. There are a fair few famous problems that i've seen in Swizzy that aren't as good as this. The problem takes a big roof with a perfect start on big jug. Tensiony slaps up perfect edges lead to a satisfying top out. The rock is great, the line is as pure as they come and the climbing is equally fantastic. I hope i can get it done before it gets wet or it warms up and i get tempted by routes. The boulder is up a private road and it is pretty tempting to drive up and park near it. It has become apparent that if people do this access issues are inevitable and so park at the bottom people. It's only a ten minute walk anyway and just not worth jeapordising such a classic .
Photo of me on it by Craig 'Ducko' Davies:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G7G6T6jR07g/UV7L_Uj2TlI/AAAAAAAAB2g/aSdRIrqIknY/s320/me+buddha.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G7G6T6jR07g/UV7L_Uj2TlI/AAAAAAAAB2g/aSdRIrqIknY/s1600/me+buddha.jpg)
And the man himself crushing it:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Good write up, I now want to quit and live in a van
-
Nice writing in that first paragraph. The dilemma well put.
-
Just read this again and realised that I've never seen such a ridiculously dichotomous outlook on life. Either spend all your time working, or all your time climbing? surely there is a middle ground chris.
-
1 or 0
-
think you're missing the point, to achieve certain climbing goals i.e 8b+/8c boulder or say 8c+/9a route working your average 9-5 job will never allow you to become this good without masses of natural ability.
obviously work and climbing middle ground is available for most BUT you'll never be as good as the man who can climb 24/7
-
obviously work and climbing middle ground is available for most BUT you'll never be as good as the man who can climb 24/7
BUT that won't make the (either) experience intrinsically less satisfying, complete or challenging. I've been thinking about this lately as I've been prioritizing career and have experienced some gratifying but unexpected rewards. Have, I've been thinking, neglected climbing? No, I've been following what motivates me right now. And I realized I can look back on a pretty decent climbing record and have still, to my surprise, developed a successful career. I'm not a God in either field, but then again I was never going to be. Each, through contrast, lends more depth and satisfaction to the other.
-
of course you can do both, i myself have a good job and am lucky to climb lots, but ultimately some people have that urge to climb 24/7 and live out of a van and climb at the top end, having a job and doing this cant be achievable, just read ty landmans article on slowing down his climbing career albeit he does it for the right reasons (making a career and the satisfaction thats comes with that)
i personally dont think you can be at the top of your game visit plenty of destinations every year and have a good job (maybe for a few very lucky people)
i do understand that people have different drivers in life and ultimately finding that right balance for you as an individual is the key :icon_beerchug:
-
I guess it depends on your ability and what you want to achieve. For me doing my climbing goals whilst working away all the time is pretty damn tricky. Obsessed friends like Neil Mawson and Ry Pasquill have to compromise on work to reach the high level that they are at. Everyone's different, it all depends on your job, your goals and your home life. I was just writing about my outlook and some people I know I guess. Some people are even lucky enough to like their job!
-
I'd say a heck of a lot depends on your job and qualifications. There are people out there cranking 8c+/9a with full-time professions. The more high-end and niche your job, the more leeway you have to take advantage and devote time to climbing if you don't really give too much of a shit about achieving career full potential. I think many very keen climbers overlook this because so many end up in 'part-time' work like instructing, rope access, or whatever; which, whilst flexible, isn't 'secure' and so demands that you make hay when you can. The really smart/talented get super-qualified in some techy or academic profession that pays big for the amount of time spent doing it and which makes them indispensable or easily re-employable, and then take advantage and climb lots and lots whilst living off the proceeds of the portfolio of self-catering cottages amassed along the way. Of course if it was easy everyone would do it instead of trying to score free shoes.
Wasn't/isn't Tyler Landman a millionaire? No excuses :P
-
Wasn't/isn't Tyler Landman a millionaire? No excuses :P
Rich parents which is nice if you can get it. :strongbench: I guess one of my problems is having many of my goals on tidal crags- you need to be able to get there when the tides out!
-
Blood Lust (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/04/blood-lust.html)
26 April 2013, 7:24 pm
It seems like Winter has finally gone. It was a brutal affair spanning 6 months and while the ice freaks were having the time of their lives putting up amazing new routes keen rock jocks like myself were dreaming of cragging in a T shirt. Most years, sport season kicks off in March but this year the Marine Drive was temporarily shut as massive snow drift blocked the road. I had been climbing inside all winter with some forays outside and on the fingerboard. Weighted deadhangs were getting me strong but strangely enough my elbows didn't seem to like me hanging 30kg off them. I tried repeaters but they hurt my skin! So i spent the majority of the time pissing about on the board. A couple of weeks ago i had my first day on a rope for 6 months and got very pumped on everything. It was so nice to be out though, I've always preferred climbing continuously up a cliff to spending most of the day stood on a bouldering mat. I decided to try and tick Llanddulas to make myself do some mileage. I had 9 6's to do and Tony's route Tenacious T, 7b+ on the Tower. Tenacious T turned out to be a cracking route. It starts up Resist the Race then breaks left via some tenuous sidepull and backhand moves. Halfway up you get good footholds and can lean in and get a no hands rest. Then there is another tricky link to the top which felt hard on first acquaintance. I managed to get it first redpoint to tick the crag (72 routes). It is one of the better routes on the Tower along with Resist the Race and Vegas Nights. Most people still can't be arsed to walk any further than the Upper Cave though. I also went to Mayfair Wall in an attempt to do some mileage and ended up getting on Oyster which I'd dabbled on previously. I felt strong on the moves and started redpointing as it basically boils down to a few moves. It follows Bearded Clam (7a+) to a good shake then tackles a super burly crack. The key moment was a beta suggestion from Dave Evans which meant it was on. You know when you're working something and your belayer is shouting up beta suggestions despite never trying the route and it never works - well this time it did! It's crazy to think Jerry gave it E4 6b 30 years ago. Today it's 8a and rarely climbed. Moffatt was ahead of his time! I only need to Masterclass now to complete the Triple Crown. I've got a feeling it's going to be a battle. I had planned in winter to try and tick these two routes and make them a priority. You can't think of them as quick 8a ticks (unless you're really good!). They are old school and a lot tougher propositions for most than the modern style routes down LPT. I put another bolt in Masterclass today after the ledge belay. Last year i pulled the big flake jug off Masterclass with a metal bar. I also pulled off the big flake left of Contusion. I looked at the possibility of doing a new route there but couldn't really see it. It was a big gap between The Bloods and Oyster but i guess no one had bothered because of the flake. When lowering off Contusion the other day it looked like a worthy proposition. There were some cool crimpers in the white rock and there were a couple of holds on the left edge of the scar. The rock wasn't great on these holds but they were big enough for it to be ok. After doing Oyster i stuck 4 bolts in the new section. The route would start up The Bloods and rejoin it at it's last bolt at the top. I returned today with Pete Harrison to give it a go. The moves were really good and there were some mean little crimps and quite sequency feet. I was pro and made sure i had a good sequence dialled and managed to bust it out on redpoint. It was touch and go though and cold fingers didn't help. Difficulty wise i think it's at least as hard as Body Torque Direct which gets 7c but it really needs another opinion as it could be 7b+. The name is Blood Lust keeping with the Blood theme and also my mangled thumb from Oyster. Anyway it's one of the best walls on North Wales lime so any new route there is special. We have the greenlight to bolt the old extensions to Axle, The Bloods and Mayfair. This will turn already 3 star routes in 30 metre monsters. It just needs someone motivated to get stuck in, hopefully i'll get the time to do a bit.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Mental Warfare - The Redpoint Game (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/06/mental-warfare-redpoint-game.html)
4 June 2013, 12:43 pm
Last night i asked myself a simple question. Which of these is the most fun:
a) Crusing up a big cliff with the sun on your back in a beautiful place. Stopping on a ledge every now and again taking your boots off bringing up your mate. Gaining a glorious summit high off the ground and finishing off with a couple of pints and a big fat dinner.
or
b) Spending multiple days on the same route, constantly tiring your skin and muscles whilst battling factors that are out of your control. Suffering stress, despondency and mental anguish all in the hope that one day the torment will come to an end and you'll be free to go and do the same thing again on a route 6 metres to the left/right.
Sounds like a no brainer on paper doesn't it. Then why oh why do so many of us put ourselves through the mental torture of trying routes that are so hard for us? Redpointing can be fun but i'm sure for the majority the fun days are vastly outweighed by the stressful, torturous days. And when it goes to 10 days+ you're on a one way street to a mental breakdown. I definitely struggled with the mental aspects of redpointing early on in my redpoint career. I remember being on the Catwalk at Malham in 2003, i was just about to have a redpoint of Raindogs and the self doubt in my mind was overwhelming. I was literally telling myself i was going to fall off. Ten years on i guess i'm a seasoned redpointer and have become quite resilient mentally. However it still only takes one bad day or even one go when you grease off and you can literally feel the doubt creeping in. It's so so hard to keep the perfect frame of mind. You need to be relaxed but also aggressive at the right times. You have to know within yourself that the end will come (this part is obviously easier the more you've done). Pete Robins (no stranger to the seige) says: "you've just got to keep going, through all the shit days where everything's wrong just keep trying. So when that good day comes you're ready to finish it". I'd love to know Mark Leach's state of mind after 45 days on Cry Freedom. He must have thought the end would never come. I guess the answer to my question is who wants an easy life? If we did we'd all be single and working in McDonalds. Most obsessives want to see what they're capable of and is there a better feeling than sticking a big number on your scorecard? Of course not. The epic ticks are ultimately more memorable, more rewarding. I can't remember much about The Cad or Lord of the Flies but i can still remember how i felt when i clipped the lower off on Melanchollie. It's a long hard slog with little rewards along the way but it's pure motivation and obsession. And that's what many of us need to get us going.
Neil Dyer after cliiping the lower off on his epic seige FA, Megalopa, LPT.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iRAAMRimYUQ/Ua3gEC2FeKI/AAAAAAAAB3A/c6IdOEasJRU/s320/dyer+top.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iRAAMRimYUQ/Ua3gEC2FeKI/AAAAAAAAB3A/c6IdOEasJRU/s1600/dyer+top.bmp)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Pump up The Jam (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/06/pump-up-jam.html)
9 June 2013, 5:06 pm
Pete Robins has cleaned up another old project- this time down Pigeon's Cave. The 'S Crack' project is located on the right hand side of the crag and is essentially a 3 bolt boulder route. Think right hand side of Raven Tor but amazing. We don't know who bolted it originally but Kristian Klemmow had a few goes in the late 90s and i pulled a good hold off it about 8 years ago. The route involves a hard (font 7c+) move to gain the base of the prominent curving crack then some burly manoeuvres up the crack lead to a big slap the gain the lip and a few more tenuous but slightly easier moves to top out. We started our Pigeons campaign in mid May. Pete sorted out the moves and was quickly on redpoint. He was soon nailing the hard crux, a slap of a small slopey crimp and a trademark Robins magic heel. The following font 7b+ sequence to the top proved to be tricksome on the redpoint but he managed to get the lip only to be spat off bringing his left hand out the crack with incredibly tenuous footholds. He persevered but struggled with this move time and again. After a backwards session or two Pete made the breakthrough two days ago and managed to get both hands above the lip. To his dismay and disgust he fell off pretty much the last move just before the jugs arrived. It looked like today would be the day and after more frustration he finally topped out. The route is called Pump up the Jam and he's given it 8c as it took a fair bit of effort. It is pretty much as good as it gets for such a short route. The sequence is really good and the crack gives it a nice feature. I got it on camera and hopefully will be able to wrap up my little film soon!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yNTbdHG2S0U/UbSiRHX4FpI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/6UKXFisVYQE/s320/photo(9).JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yNTbdHG2S0U/UbSiRHX4FpI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/6UKXFisVYQE/s1600/photo(9).JPG)
Video still:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q-sb6kgIvqI/UbSi8jCjxSI/AAAAAAAAB3Y/_JBNKXgEAWc/s320/pete+pig.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q-sb6kgIvqI/UbSi8jCjxSI/AAAAAAAAB3Y/_JBNKXgEAWc/s1600/pete+pig.jpg)
I was hoping to make it a super Sunday by finishing off my project but what i felt was going to be relatively straightforward is rapidly turning into an epic. On a good day i tickle the hold before the top but those days are becoming few and fair between for some reason. The starts often greasy and it does get wet so i don't really feel like i can relax too much.
We then headed off to a often wet but seriously impressive George Smith E5 by Crinkle Crags called Primeval. It was a bit damp in places and the tide was on its way out so not ideal for DWS. Pete's a bold twat however and didn't let that stop him. When in condition and at high tide it's one of the best Deep Water Solo's in the UK.
Vid:
Some recent footage of Caff at Pigeons:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Bravo to Mr Robins, belayed Pete on this a few weeks back and had a quick play. It is really very good as are many of the other routes here.
Doylo - think I might be working at DMM tomorrow and would be keen for an evening session down Pigeons if you are after a belayer (although need confirmation from Ray on the work)
-
ps I was thinking 'Pigeons Go Coo Coo' for the name
-
Bravo to Mr Robins, belayed Pete on this a few weeks back and had a quick play. It is really very good as are many of the other routes here.
Doylo - think I might be working at DMM tomorrow and would be keen for an evening session down Pigeons if you are after a belayer (although need confirmation from Ray on the work)
I need a break from Pigeons pal. Might be up for something else though...
-
A Good Deed isn't Always Good For You (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/06/a-good-deed-isnt-always-good-for-you.html)
24 June 2013, 10:31 am
I spent most of the Winter obsessing about a new route i nearly did down Pigeon's Cave in September. The route seeps and i was stopped by wetness just after grabbing the hold below the top. I thought about it so much during winter, watching the footage time after time fantasising about the day I'd be back on redpoint. This year as sport season loomed i used to run down to the ledge to see if it was dry and eventually it was. This coincided with me hitting a bit of form. I despatched Hatch Life High (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=631) in the Cave no problem (Megos thought this was 8a+! It's not and Hatch Life has settled at 7c+).
On my first visits to Pigeons with Pete and Caff it was cold and windy which is pretty much what you need for good conditions there. The moves came back straight away and i managed to do it in two with a short rest straight away. It really seemed like it was going to be a quick tick and i started to think about all the other things i could get on after. The god of the Orme had other ideas though. It's basically a power endurance route and i creeped higher and higher. I was soon at my high point from last year, all i needed was a fraction more. The weather turned hot and grease became a problem.
Then one day i was belay swopping with Tommy. We were down at LPT and during his rests i jugged up Walking Mussel and hammered off some of the rusty old bolts. I didn't think it at the time but in retrospect twatting fuck out of some metal with a claw hammer for 30 minutes isn't a very wise move - especially as i was redpointing that afternoon. We went back up and i warmed up in the Cave, my right arm felt really tired and i knew i'd made a big mistake. The next week i crammed the Pigeons sessions in but never felt good enough to get to my highpoint. My right arm felt constantly tired and pumped. Then it dawned on me it wasn't tired, it was actually injured from the hammering. I associate injury with pain and because it didn't really hurt it hadn't occurred to me i might need to stop climbing. Two weeks later and its still not better and watching perfect Pigeon's conditions pass me by is heartbreaking.
I'm really missing climbing and it's extra frustrating as i know it's self inflicted. As i my muscles get smaller and my belly gets bigger clipping the top of my proj could be a way off!
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Be careful not to wear your micro out, whilst out of the game! ;)
-
It's ok need to rest my right arm :wank:
-
Follow Your Heart (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/07/follow-your-heart.html)
2 July 2013, 8:46 pm
Pigeon's is the IN crag of the year. New projects are appearing every week and plenty of people are getting down to the beach. Since ticking the S crack Pete has teamed up with Ben Bransby and the pair have been helping the crag dry up with a shovel and bolting. Pete has two new projects, one will be phenomenal when it goes and the other is pretty amazing too. Ben got in on the act by bolting a project that we'd all seen the potential for. It looked like you could get into Follow the Prof (an amazing steep 7c+) by starting up Stiff Upper Lip and traversing right past some slots. Ben put in a hard shift and bolted it up giving it an independent start in the process. Today was pretty wet and horrible and hence the conditions were even shitter than normal down there. First redpoint Ben made it through the crux move but made an error by clipping the next bolt and powering himself out in the process. Next go he made it into Prof and as he shook out before the mega last move me and Pete thought it was a formality as he had onsighted Prof recently. He set up for the move and it didn't feel right so back down to the jugs he came. After more shakes he slapped a crimp below the top but it was wet and the elbows came out. He had the top of the crag in his hand but it wasn't quite over. Sure enough he clipped the chain and we all let out a sigh of relief. He's called it Follow your Heart (Follow Prof link, heart shaped jug on prof) and he reckons 8a+. It's a good job it wasn't much harder given the horrendous conditions but then again the guys a rockstar so it probably wouldn't have mattered.
Film grabs:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNGLfgn4cq8/UdM7iIl1o0I/AAAAAAAAB4E/bb6gyEHHBAY/s320/ben1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lNGLfgn4cq8/UdM7iIl1o0I/AAAAAAAAB4E/bb6gyEHHBAY/s1600/ben1.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-96xFOSVUgJ0/UdM7o1nmcEI/AAAAAAAAB4M/Vl2rleqBqeE/s320/ben2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-96xFOSVUgJ0/UdM7o1nmcEI/AAAAAAAAB4M/Vl2rleqBqeE/s1600/ben2.jpg)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Heel Hook Look 2nd ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-heel-hook-look-2nd-ascent.html)
29 July 2013, 2:19 pm
Pete Robins has made the 2nd ascent of Rob Lamey's super deep water solo on The Little Orme. Rob climbed his route (after plenty of splashdowns) in 2007 and it hasn't really been on anyones radar since then. Pete had the route in the back of his mind and the warm dry conditions made the proposition even more tempting. Heel Hook Look is accessed by the beach from Craig-y-Don. The route starts on the last ledge systems and requires a high tide. Because it's a traverse (well up until the last few moves) it stays at a friendly height above the sea. Pete raced along to a resting position on his first sesh just over a week ago but didn't realise that the route went up from there and was falling trying to make some desperate moves left. He returned on Saturday and with the knowledge of where the route topped out he managed to avoid the dip into the briney. He raved about the route, the DWS crowd should check it out. There is a 6c/+ which tops out from the last jugs on HHL.
Here is the vid of the FA from a few years ago:
Pic of Pete Harrison on the start:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Z76HnURF-E/UfZlLcMx4OI/AAAAAAAAB4c/D4RrXKz_D_k/s320/photo(13).JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Z76HnURF-E/UfZlLcMx4OI/AAAAAAAAB4c/D4RrXKz_D_k/s1600/photo(13).JPG)
I got some nice footage of Pete doing it, i'll probably stick it in my film.
My problem Flashpoint filmed during the dry spell:
Some Clwyd footage including Mule on his dinbren 8b:
There hasn't been much of a scene on the sport crags yet this year. It's been pretty shit conditions during the heatwave but the crowds have been strangely absent this year. Diamond season is just round the corner so maybe they're all training for that!
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
There hasn't been much of a scene on the sport crags yet this year. It's been pretty shit conditions during the heatwave but the crowds have been strangely absent this year. Diamond season is just round the corner so maybe they're all training for that!
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
Should of seen the amount of people at the Gorge yesterday! Ropes up on 4 routes!
Quality footage of the Mule at the Bren! Love it!
-
There hasn't been much of a scene on the sport crags yet this year. It's been pretty shit conditions during the heatwave but the crowds have been strangely absent this year. Diamond season is just round the corner so maybe they're all training for that!
Maybe that is what everyone is waiting for ;D
I've thought there has been a good scene on the crags, particularly in the last few weeks whilst you have been absent...
-
There hasn't been much of a scene on the sport crags yet this year. It's been pretty shit conditions during the heatwave but the crowds have been strangely absent this year. Diamond season is just round the corner so maybe they're all training for that!
...
I've thought there has been a good scene on the crags, particularly in the last few weeks whilst you have been absent...
:lol:
Only two more weeks until I can bolt a proj and keep it closed for ten years :dance1:
-
I'm probably a contender for the longest every project,my view if you've gone to the effort to bolt clean etc its yours ,stay the f*** off unless you've had permission,and then respect the effort involved ,jump off whatever you want to do untill the project owner does it either gives it up,stay away or keep quiet,lay off lee give the fucker space i don,t know him but its not easy to spend as much time as you would like these days doing what you would like to do.as far as projects go there's always someone who could piss it but that's not the point,appreciate the effort folks and our climbing ethics may stay tru? Yes I've had a few and probably gone completely off track
-
Flashpoint really is very good. More people should make the effort while it isn't soaked!
-
Best Roof Climb in the UK? (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/07/best-roof-climb-in-uk.html)
30 July 2013, 3:56 pm
Today Pete Robins completed his latest project and this one is potentially the best yet. Pete's latest creation is the first (and likely last) breach of the massive flat roof down Pigeon's Cave. Pete (and everyone else) had always gazed up and wondered about the big unclimbed roof above Cat Amongst the Pigeons/Felaltio Nelson. It looked amazing but would it be possible? On a miserable February day Pete abbed off the top and started cleaning and bolting the line.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hidbj_SO4Xw/Uffeu-hA8jI/AAAAAAAAB4s/brwNuMMZ41M/s320/photo(15).JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hidbj_SO4Xw/Uffeu-hA8jI/AAAAAAAAB4s/brwNuMMZ41M/s1600/photo(15).JPG)It looked ridiculous, had he bitten off more than he could chew this time? He had a few dabbles on it but got stuck into Pump up the Jam which went down after a mini seige. Pete's attention then turned to his mega roof project, he soon got all the moves and was pulling out some good links. He was starting the route up Stiff Upper Lip which was higher quality and added more amazing roof climbing. Just before the crux of Stiff, the route branches off left and follows a rampline all the way to the lip. It was immediately apparent that this route fitted Pete like a glove- whereas in years gone by he was a vert slatemaster these days he is definitely king of the roof. Lots of heel hooks and heel clamps played to his strengths perfectly and he made fast progress. Last week he made it to the final moves but fell moving his feet round the lip. Today the conditions were amazing and he despatched first redpoint. The route tops out onto a ledge so has a satisfying finish. It certainly is a unique route, it is a roof for 15 metres or so and the holds and moves are amazing. Certainly one of the best hard routes in the UK. The route is called Dark Energy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark_energy) and he's given it 8c+, i got the ascent on camera so hopefully when the footage is released it will inspire some beasts to give it a go.
Some video stills:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t6tsuAI24YQ/Uffhk94wHTI/AAAAAAAAB48/ekAfC7DY0Vc/s320/pete+roof.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t6tsuAI24YQ/Uffhk94wHTI/AAAAAAAAB48/ekAfC7DY0Vc/s1600/pete+roof.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m9s5IE1BCXw/Uffhti2z5lI/AAAAAAAAB5E/JGHAwPTsWRc/s320/pete+shot.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m9s5IE1BCXw/Uffhti2z5lI/AAAAAAAAB5E/JGHAwPTsWRc/s1600/pete+shot.jpg)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Awesome! Remember going down to Pigeon's as a teenager (about 25 years ago) and thinking that one day there would be some ridiculous routes there.
-
its a shame but the massive roofs to to left don't seem to have enough holds. This one is pretty special though...
-
Looks amazing. Definitely looks like cave trickery and fitness would help on this one! :bow:
-
Warning - loud sea noise!
pigeons roof - Dark Energy, failed RP on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/71356677)
-
Effort Robins! Looks damn awesome!
Cool footage Ben, cheers!
-
Wow :bow:
-
Speckled Jim (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/speckled-jim.html)
3 August 2013, 6:32 pm
I reckon 2011 was my most fulfilling climbing year ever. I bolted 26 routes and managed to climb 24 of them. One that got away was a line down Pigeon's Cave just right of Stark. Dyer had spotted a cool diagonal rail above some big undercuts and there was a possible finish up a cool groove feature up and left. I abbed in and bolted it, initial efforts felt very hard indeed. I could see a sequence but it was super fingery and powerful. On one go i pushed my knee against a slopey ramp and as i felt it take some of my weight i could see some light at the end of the tunnel. 2012 came and went in the splash of a massive ugly raindrop. One of the downsides of the route was that it did seep so needed some dry weather. It dried out in September and armed with the new 5.10 kneepad i fell near the top after 5 or so sessions. The next day it got wet and stayed wet and i spent the winter fantasising about getting back on it. It had me captivated, when i first linked it to the top from the half height undercuts it became my favourite thing in the world. The moves were really funky and unique and there were some great features and big slopey holds. After slapping out to small positive part of a slopey ramp you did 4 foot moves with youtr hands in the same place to walk your feet into the kneebar. The kneebar had to stick for 4 more hand moves before a shouldery and tensiony finish using one of the nicest holds I'd used on a route - a waterworn slopey pinch. I resumed my efforts in spring this year and managed to do it in two with a short rest straight away. Getting the job done would prove problematic however and i fell a lot coming out of the kneebar and tensioning to the last hold. I packed the sessions in and started to get tired, then i got some strange forearm injuries and had to stop climbing for 4 weeks. I started climbing again but Pigeon's was a no go in 25 degree heat, the holds are like butter in these conditions. I really wanted to get the route done for the guide, it could be one of the last hard FAs i might do and it would be special to do another hard one on the Orme. My first session back on the route was a disaster, i couldn't even do it from halfway and i broke a piece of the undercut off. Everything seemed stacked against me on this one. I glued the hold back on and then finally on the day Pete did Dark Energy i fell off the top again. I've never been so happy to fall off something but was dismayed at finding a foot move hard on the new highpoint. I knew getting out the car today that the conditions would be good. It's a bit of a nightmare crag and getting it mint is half the battle. I warmed up on Pill Box then headed down. There were some big numbers present- Barrows, Shauna and Ned. I felt mutant on the dog and knew this was the time. It went down first redpoint, the last move was proper 50/50 but i ran my fingers up the wall to the final crimp and got the jugs. The route is called Speckled Jim (Genereal Melchetts Pigeons in Blackadder Goes Forth) and it's 8b. The one man who i was worried might think its totally piss is Alex Barrows as he's taller than me and has some pretty nifty kneebarring skills. To my relief he confirmed it wasn't and reckoned it was harder than Kali Yuga and La Connection,two 8bs he'd done earlier in the year. Phew!
Photo: Jack Geldard
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TBwZZyjPmA/Uf1KH7XDUMI/AAAAAAAAB5U/MnfjqDReoFA/s320/Chris+8b+Proj+Pigeons.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TBwZZyjPmA/Uf1KH7XDUMI/AAAAAAAAB5U/MnfjqDReoFA/s1600/Chris+8b+Proj+Pigeons.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A8vPfnO1eYk/Uf1KjbN4j9I/AAAAAAAAB5c/ttNUfX4B3JU/s320/photo(16).JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A8vPfnO1eYk/Uf1KjbN4j9I/AAAAAAAAB5c/ttNUfX4B3JU/s1600/photo(16).JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cIcsPXCctw/Uf1KzttdAZI/AAAAAAAAB5k/Y3GouKyNmOw/s320/photo(17).JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cIcsPXCctw/Uf1KzttdAZI/AAAAAAAAB5k/Y3GouKyNmOw/s1600/photo(17).JPG)The beasts were taking advantage of the good conditions. Stiff Upper Lip got flashed 3 times by James Noble, Barrows and Ned and they all reckoned 7c+ and probably easier than Follow the Prof (also flashed by James). Weirdly they reckoned Koo Koo was the hardest of the bunch!
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
great name!
-
Well done Chris, great name. Did you consider giving it E10 to raise either your own personal profile or the profile of the area?
-
Not enough pinky monos for E10...
-
Go on beast I'm sure you'll climb many other hard routes!!!
-
Probably not newies though, not many left for my level
-
Probably not newies though, not many left for my level
Well get on someone else's project then.
-
Fucking brilliant, nice one Doylo. Really pleased you got it done mate.
The route is called Speckled Jim (Genereal Melchetts Pigeons in Blackadder Goes Forth)
This should be the full name. Like Mecca (The Mid Life Crisis). ;)
-
Ha ha. I think its a shitter kneebar than Mecca judging from Barrows go's and the Kabaah vid. Kneepads are allowed on first ascents you know ;) It's only when you're ruining established classics that it's naughty :lol:
-
I've no problem with kneebars. Was just pointing out that it looks like one of El Mocho's route names when you read it like that. My Pigeon (The very feathered one) or something.
I realise that it's just called Speckled Jim (great name btw) before anyone else misreads this and doesn't get that I was just making a poor gag.
Getting coat.
-
Ah, yes it does sound like a El Mocho/ Bonjoy route name when you read it like that. Expect some more big numbers from the A-team again soon.... North Wales is ace.
-
I realise that it's just called Speckled Jim (great name btw)
Jeez Jasper, wouldn't it make more sense to drop the brackets entirely and just call it Speckled Jim?
Effort Chris, good timing too, some rain in Wales this morning!
-
I realise that it's just called Speckled Jim (great name btw)
Jeez Jasper, wouldn't it make more sense to drop the brackets entirely and just call it Speckled Jim?
Effort Chris, good timing too, some rain in Wales this morning!
Ta JB. I can't tell you how nice it feels looking out at the rain and not having to worry about the route getting wet.
-
Blackadder is court-martialled - Blackadder - BBC (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BxFlmb6S6E#)
-
The next route should be the 'Flanders pidgeon murderer!'
-
The next route should be the 'Flanders pidgeon murderer!'
There's a link up to do...
-
Get it done.... No we have not seen this delicious plump breasted pidgeon...
-
More 3 Star Routes on the Diamond (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/more-3-star-routes-on-diamond.html)
13 August 2013, 9:22 am
It's funny to think that when climbers started re-visiting the Diamond back in 2009 the hardest route was 8a+. Considering it was one of the biggest, steepest, most impressive bits of rock in the UK the years of hibernation had ceased development despite the obvious soaring project lines. The amount of unclimbed rock was gobsmacking, the lines of the future were there staring us in the face. After a couple of years of consolidation Neil Dyer struck first (after two failed seasons by yours truly). The Brute was an old project and the stand out hard line that the crag had been waiting for and deserved. Despite this it was still only 8b (albeit a hard one), which is a fairly modest level in this day and age. This crag had to have some high 8's/low 9's, it was too impending and impressive not to. In 2012 Pete Robins struck to give the crag its first super hard route. Diamond Dogs features some immaculate hard climbing, Pete battled through terrible conditions to get it done. It still has an extension that will take it to the top (it got wet so Pete couldn't couldn't finish where he had initially intended to). Two years ago Ben Bransby, one of the best climbers in the UK came over for a piece of the action. He took the bull by the horns and along with Sam Whittaker bolted an extension to The Brute. Steve Mayers had planned to take The Brute higher up the crag just below Diamond Dogs extension lower off. Ben saw the potential for a more direct extension that had some amazing rock and was considerably harder that the extension to the left. A super project was born, climb The Brute, one of the best 8bs in the country and then continue direct to the top of the crag with another 8a+/b pitch on top. The extension was different in style to The Brute but was equally amazing. The rock changed from the slick rock of The Brute to rougher and more grease resistant stone. Also whereas the Brute was in essence a sustained power endurance romp the top extension had shake out jugs but with hard boulder problems in between. The first job however was to tick The Brute and Ben managed this with minimum fuss in 2012. He knew the challenge that awaited him and the fitness levels that he would have to acquire to clip the lower off of this 30 metre monster. Ben recognised that with the crag having such a short season, with it being away from home and with it having somewhat fickle conditions he would have to return prepared and be clinical when Diamond season came. He went away and in winter started to build up the massive fitness needed. He did a lot of circuits on his home garage and did plenty of shaking out practice, he knew that would be key - if he could could recover on the top shake outs he'd be in with a shout. On his first session he was surprised to link it from the top from the 3rd bolt, it seemed all his hard work had paid off and he knew it was on. The next day was greasy to begin with but he got through The Brute on his 2nd redpoint. This is where he needed those rests to count. I was hanging from Diamond Dogs filming, the shakeouts were a god send for me as it meant i could jug up as Ben was shaking out. It was incredible to watch, Ben grunted his way through the hard moves and he soon found himself a couple of metres below the top on a big hold but still on very steep ground. After all that effort it would be heartbreaking to drop the finish now, he came to 50/50 moment as he eyed up the top of the crag but made no mistake and with another grunt pulled up the rope and clipped the belay. The route (currently unnamed) is without doubt one of the best routes in the UK and i don't think it would be out of place at any classic crag in the world - it's that good!
The line:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FpcSHNommT0/UgUbQZOD4rI/AAAAAAAAB50/gPdyddC5i2o/s320/brute.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FpcSHNommT0/UgUbQZOD4rI/AAAAAAAAB50/gPdyddC5i2o/s1600/brute.jpg)
Ben was a little unsure about the grade as it had gone down so quickly but 8c/+ seems likely (read probably 8c+ !) The footage is some of my favourite ever, here are some stills but they don't really do it justice:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o2-gvMopDCY/UgUbpRmEzDI/AAAAAAAAB58/80HWfTFASbk/s320/bransbybrute3.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o2-gvMopDCY/UgUbpRmEzDI/AAAAAAAAB58/80HWfTFASbk/s1600/bransbybrute3.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wLl2RMHB7Us/UgUbylvRJEI/AAAAAAAAB6E/9Ia3f7wzyTI/s320/barnsbybrute2.JPG)
Pete Robins also got in on the action by despatching a project that Chris Webb Parsons had tried a couple of times last year. Chris was thrwarted by shit conditions and seepage but this year the crag is dry and mint. The line in question does the first few juggy moves of The Waiting Game then blasts straight up a perfect 45 degree overhang - amazing board climbing! It then joins the top diagonal crack project and climbs this to the end. Pete put a lower off in above the crack at the end. The last move of the route is a big powerful move which isn't too bad on its own but heartbreaking from the start. The line may not be a big soaring line like Ben's new route but it is 3 star climbing in its own right. The moves and holds are amazing and its a draining power endurance romp. Pete kept dropping the last move but it went down soon enough- The Pink Panther 8b+!(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D02jaHkqDO8/Ugj-HL0NJGI/AAAAAAAAB6Y/I0mmKMUd2Os/s320/panther2.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D02jaHkqDO8/Ugj-HL0NJGI/AAAAAAAAB6Y/I0mmKMUd2Os/s1600/panther2.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AL0Crk3AVrQ/Ugj_T9WMr8I/AAAAAAAAB6o/ZVRtdpktfK0/s320/panther1.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AL0Crk3AVrQ/Ugj_T9WMr8I/AAAAAAAAB6o/ZVRtdpktfK0/s1600/panther1.JPG)Film trailer:
Fresh Meat Trailer (http://vimeo.com/72182168) from Chris Doyle (http://vimeo.com/user1898792) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com).
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:dance1:
Excellent!
-
New fb 8a+ on Orme (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/new-fb-8a-on-orme.html)
14 August 2013, 10:05 am
Ned Feehally has climbed the big roof arete to the right of Flashpoint down Sea View Walls. Ned finished at an obvious point 3/4 along but did the moves on a possible extension that he reckoned was about 8a in its own right. A meaty link project for someone! He reckoned it was about 8a+ to his finish (no name as yet). Effort pal!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VLZrTUrVYU0/UgtWC7slfHI/AAAAAAAAB64/XEeEff58ty4/s320/IMG_1271.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VLZrTUrVYU0/UgtWC7slfHI/AAAAAAAAB64/XEeEff58ty4/s1600/IMG_1271.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhhCQGvEZa8/UgtWKjXuULI/AAAAAAAAB7A/wLI54z5cBo4/s320/IMG_1409.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhhCQGvEZa8/UgtWKjXuULI/AAAAAAAAB7A/wLI54z5cBo4/s1600/IMG_1409.jpg)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Looks awesome, nice one Ned!
-
Cherry (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/cherry.html)
16 August 2013, 11:48 am
The historic month on North Wales lime is showing no signs of slowing down. Tommy Chamings has got in on the action at the Diamond now. Shortly after the ban was lifted Tommy rebolted the old extension project to Never Get Out of The Boat, a classic 8a. The extension takes the route from a good rest at the belay to the top of the crag. To his surprise it only took him 4 sessions. He's called the route Cherry and given it 8a+. It could prove to be quite a stiff one. Who's next???
Photo of Tommy bolting the route:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lvw-9xgjHWs/Ug4RXhl1emI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/kVUqwcAGfZY/s320/photo(20).JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lvw-9xgjHWs/Ug4RXhl1emI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/kVUqwcAGfZY/s1600/photo(20).JPG)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
To my relief he confirmed it wasn't and reckoned it was harder than Kali Yuga and La Connection,two 8bs he'd done earlier in the year. Phew!
Gonna have to rebolt Kali Yuga to force people to finish it properly rather than shuffling off rightwards at the top and missing the top 5 moves.
-
You should, can't have people cheating on your routes !
-
The Tide is High (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-tide-is-high.html)
27 August 2013, 3:43 pm
Pete Robins has done the natural extension to the deep water solo Heel Hook Look on the Little Orme. Pete first tried the extension moves last month as he believed it was the line of Heel Hook Look. He watched the vid of Rob Lamey's first ascent and that confirmed that HHL went directly up from the point that he was falling. After finishing HHL Pete was keen to return and finish the extension. He did so yesterday adding a significant amount of hard climbing and bumping the grade to 8a+. The route is called The Tide is High. Pete Harrison has a vid of the ascent which should pop up soon. Here is Pete doing The Heel Hook Look last month:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Newies Keep on Coming (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-newies-keep-on-coming.html)
1 September 2013, 7:08 pm
Significant new routes are showing no sign of drying up as yet in North Wales lime land. Ben Bransby returned to the Diamond to make use of his 'Beast fitness' and completed another mega line. This one also starts up The Brute but breaks out right before the Brute curves left. Hard moves lead to a ledge(8b+ to here) before a staminafest 7c+/8a to the top. The top section has lots of rests so apparently the sum total is still 8b+. It goes to the top of the crag- another 30 metre affair. Ben's provisional name is The Beauty but i don't think this is set in stone.
A bit further inland at Devil's Gorge near Mold a keen bunch have been joining in with the dedicated locals to continue the development of this impressive wall. Pete Harrison completed a superb old project - the immaculate cleancut wall to the left of the crag classic Grand Canyon. Underworld goes to a finishing point halfway up the crag at 7c but the extension was an obvious challenge and as an open project it was fair game. Owen Davies got involved and started putting the time in and together with Pete they worked out the top section which added another 7c on top of Underworld. Pete was held back with chronic back pain but Owen got his seige on and started to inch higher and higher up the wall. Yesterday he finished the line to give North Wales another 3 star classic which is comparable in quality to those big soaring wall climbs in Yorkshire. Owen said he hadn't done a route where it was so easy to fall off so many moves, it goes without saying he was relieved to finish it off. He's unsure as to whether is is 8a or 8a+. Ally Smith also got into the action linking the line into Canyon at 7c+. The link has some nice independent moves and is called Born Slippy.
Owen on the first section of his mega line Hades (photo - Luke Clarke):
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dnlaAZcnv18/UiOPcgYbXDI/AAAAAAAAB7o/tB7GmIQyBJk/s320/owen.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dnlaAZcnv18/UiOPcgYbXDI/AAAAAAAAB7o/tB7GmIQyBJk/s1600/owen.jpg)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
What a year! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/10/i-spent-start-of-year-on-gas-plant.html)
4 October 2013, 8:28 pm
I spent the start of the year on a gas plant wondering if my project down Pigeon's Cave would dry out. Now I'm there again with the route in the bag and I've been pondering those emotions we go through when trying to finish up these new routes. Most redpoint seiges are stressful but it always seems more heightened to me when the route in question is a new line. I personally always feel extra pressure with a new route, it feels part of your local legacy that you really want to get finished especially with new guidebooks coming out! It occurred to me that quality new routes on British limestone are scarce resources that are inevitably going to dry up at some point and it's important to try and enjoy them even when the going gets tough. Pete Robins said to me after doing Dark Energy: "you spend most of the time worrying about not doing them". So true! When you're in that moment of stress and despondency on a project you crave closure. But i think its important to try and cherish the whole experience. It can be a rollercoaster but ultimately the lows make the highs.
The sport season is winding down and what a season it has been. After the washout of 2012 we really needed a year of good weather and boy did we get it. The amazing first ascents kept on coming. Pigeon's Cave got the shortest 8c in the country and one of the most impressive, unique hard routes in Dark Energy. Ben Bransby completed The Beast, probably the best 8c in the UK and also a hard 8b+ to its right. A list of the new grade 8's so far:
Pump Up the Jam 8c, Pigeon's Cave. (Pete Robins)
Follow Your Heart 8a+, Pigeon's Cave (Ben Bransby)
Dark Energy 8c+, Pigeon's Cave (Pete Robins)
Speckled Jim 8b, Pigeon's Cave (Chris Doyle)
The Beast 8c, The Diamond (Ben Bransby)
The Pink Panther 8b+, The Diamond (Pete Robins)
The Tide is High 8a+ (dws) , The Little Orme (Pete Robins)
Cherry 8a+, The Diamond (Tommy Chamings)
Beauty 8b+, The Diamond (Ben Bransby)
Hades 8a+, Devils Gorge (Owen Davies)
Cerberus 8a, Devils Gorge (Ally Smith)
That's 11, a couple shy of 2011 which was the most frenetic year of new routing ever. More importantly every route is 2 or 3 stars. Cerberus is the only link up and it's a pretty good one. The Beast and Dark Energy are nationally significant hard routes.
My own climbing has had a bit of a disappointing end. I felt really good in early September but i hurt my finger doing Moonwalk down LPT. It felt better a few times but always stiffened up again after getting on something hard. I was very close on Insomnia at Dinbren in quick time and Masterclass on the Orme but work and injury have put an end to them for now. I checked out Owen's route Hades last weekend, its very cool and the should become popular. The first half is a 7c called Undwerworld and that is excellent in itself.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Fresh Meat (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/10/fresh-meat.html)
22 October 2013, 12:56 pm
Back in 2011 during the new route boom on the lime I was filming Sam Cattell on his project at Dinbren and thought it would be cool to go back to some of the new routes to get some footage and make a little video for the web. I thought it would be good to showcase them in a 10/15 minute short and would give me a little project. I started taking my camera out to the crag to document what was happening. The new routes came thick and fast that year, development was frantic on the A55 crags and the Ormes alike. One project in particular would be quite a coup and I spent a month filming Pete Robins and Neil Dyer on the project direct finish to Walking Mussel. I filmed countless attempts and progress was slow. Filming FA's takes such a big investment as you have to film every single go, sods law means the one time you're not up there the climber will do the route. As it dragged on I couldn't continue going down there for every attempt, i had some climbs of my own to do! Another month past and the route was still not finished. One day I was working the finger crack of Over The Moon which is just to the left of the project headwall. Dyer was having a redpoint so I clipped into a bolt and pulled up my camera. Low and behold despite not filming for weeks that was the succesful redpoint and I'd got it on film! All of a sudden I had a showpiece hard route for my film. I kept on filming bits and bobs but as time past I struggled for inspiration and ideas and my film lacked a plan or any structure. 2012 was a washout and not too many new routes occurred. I'd edited bits and bobs such as Megalopa but my Adobe Premiere timeline was not advancing too much. 2013 brought with it some better weather and the new routes started to pick up again. I was out filming a lot, I wanted to do justice to the lower grade stuff too as those boys are just as much part of the scene as the harder climbers. Pete Robins did the best roof climb in the country down Pigeon's Cave and Ben Bransby climbed his Diamond project - The Beast, one of the best routes in the UK. Capturing Ben's ascent was one of the higlights of the whole process. It was amazing being up next to him on such a significant FA and on such a stunning route. All of a sudden I was glad the film had taken so long, I wouldn't have captured these stellar FAs otherwise. The structure started to come together and i had a definite plan to finish it. It was surreal getting to the finishing point but very satisfying. Nowadays so many people are producing beautiful slick films for free. I would like to say my production values have moved on this my early stuff but it's not really the case. There is plenty of crappy audio, and shaky camera going on like my other vids but hopefully there is enough good stuff in there to make up for it. Some of the older footage is not as sharp as the newer stuff as I got a new camera halfway through and had to mix Mini DV and AVCHD on the same timeline. My main aims with the film were to showcase the routes and to give myself a 'little' project and I think I've achieved that. It's been a labour of love, taken 1000s of hours but its there as a historical record of perhaps the last big wave of development on these crags. The final 'locals' version was 1 hour 28 which I realised was a bit long for the masses but even with some ruthless editing I only managed to knock 10 minutes off it, oh well! North Wales is back on the Sport climbing map, the new hard testpieces coupled with the easier crags give enough good climbing to last people a very long time. It's fucking amazing!!!!
Fresh Meat:
Fresh Meat (http://vimeo.com/77431619) from Chris Doyle (http://vimeo.com/user1898792) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com).
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Nice one doylo! Can't wait to watch this....
-
Foooookin great film Doylo
-
Nice one Doylo thats a great film. I really enjoyed it - the footage of Ben B on the beast is an awesome finale. Good effort :)
-
Don't ruin the ending! Haha
-
Lovely. A real tribute to the area and its climbers.
-
Mayfair Extensions (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/11/mayfair-extemsions.html)
11 November 2013, 11:33 am
A year or two ago the council gave us the go ahead to climb on the top section of Mayfair wall above the belays of The Bloods through to Mayfair. There were two old pitches up there from the 80s, both climbed as 2nd pitches to The Bloods. Both were Andy Pollitt routes, the 2nd pitch of The Bloods traversed right and went up a slabby wall at E5 6a. The Senile Penile Extension went up a groove to the left at E5 6b. We needed to sort these out for the guide as this would create 28 metre pitches on what was already one of the best walls in the area. I was keen to start it off so in July I missioned it through neck high bracken to the top of the crag to gain access to the upper pitches. I stuck a bolt in completely the wrong place but managed to deviate off the old belays when i got to the top of the crag. Pete Harrison was on groundsman duty as there would undoubtedly be some loose rock coming down. I bolted the old 2nd pitch to The Bloods which would actually be an extension to Mayfair as it was right above it. I also bolted Senile Penile Extension. I gazed across to the left and there was another line, this time with rusty old expansion bolts all the way up it. I had no clue as to what it was as there was only mention of two extensions in the old guides. I got excited and repositioned my rope. It looked a lot harder and really good; I got most of the bolts in but would have to come back to finish it. I also bolted the old Julio Juvenito extension that climbs from the normal lower off of the 7a up to the Mayfair belay. The extensions turned out to be quality - the wall above Mayfair didn't affect the grade but was quality slabby climbing and now takes it to the top of the wall. Tony Shelmerdine managed to find a way to the top of the crag at 6c+. He added a couple of new bolts breaking right from just above the Contusion belay into the new Mayfair extension. This is a great expedition for a 6 and should prove popular. Senile Penile turned out to be excellent also and goes at soft 7b+. It is directly above Contusion so that gives it a nice start. Julio extension is fun steep climbing and bumps the grade to 7a+. I finished bolting my new project and started trying it, I had asked about it a bit and it turns out it was a forgotten project of 90's projectmeister Phil Smith. I struggled with the crux initially then one day I just climbed it. It felt bloody brilliant, The Bloods is a great route to start up, then you can chill before the powerful crux moves. It is really nice climbing involving a fantastic thin pinch and a small undercut. After the crux you rock up the groove before easy climbing takes you to the top of the wall. It felt great to do a long new route even though it's not really a pumpy route. I called it Cold Blood and although it felt 8a when i was working it, it felt steady on the lead and thus I am unsure as to whether it's 8a or 7c+. I'm desperate to get it right for the guide so really need a 2nd opinion. I am offering a £15 reward for someone who knows the difference between 7c+ and 8a to try it and give me an opinion! :-) It's easier than Masterclass but then so is every 8a I've ever been on. There was another decent line in between my project and Senile Penile which Pete Harrison stuck some bolts in. He only gave it a quick go as he was off climbing with a back problem. Ally Smith had gone to try my route and had managed it second go pretty comfortably - or so we thought! I was there a few weeks later with his belayer Luke Owens and it turns out he had done Pete's project by mistake! Talk about kicking a man when he's down. Ally reckoned the route was hard 7c but it is very morpho so most people will probably find it to be 7c+. Bad Blood seems an appropriate name for this one!
Me on Senile Penile 7b+:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J5jLewNwmuk/UoC-OPlC16I/AAAAAAAAB74/vxUwPK-yuWQ/s320/me+senile.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J5jLewNwmuk/UoC-OPlC16I/AAAAAAAAB74/vxUwPK-yuWQ/s1600/me+senile.jpg)
Dave Evans on Bad Blood 7c/+:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YYLS2OefpFA/UoC-9lw3slI/AAAAAAAAB8A/_Y3TofGuYY4/s320/photo(21).JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YYLS2OefpFA/UoC-9lw3slI/AAAAAAAAB8A/_Y3TofGuYY4/s1600/photo(21).JPG)
A nice trundle just above The Bloods belay
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Less exciting is the hour Owen and me spent sweeping up your trundling fun Mr Doyle. Then I bolted my great new proj thinking I'd have it as something to look forward to after recovering from back surgery.. thanks a bunch Ally! :whistle: :'(
Good job I've found what I have!
-
I picked up some rocks too!
-
You should make a sketch topo n stick a photo of it up fat boy, I'm confused as hell about what goes where up there...
-
Pantons going to do one.
It's not as confusing as I make it sound
-
You only offerred me a tenner!!!
-
It's gone up! Desperation before winter kicks in. And you don't know your arse from your elbow either ;)
-
Great efforts all round. Working with the council to get the upper bit unbanned, cleaning, bolting and doing the routes. It was already a superb bit of wall but I bet these extra long pitches are a bit special. :2thumbsup:
-
They are really good, another reason to move back richie ;)
-
For fifteen quid I'll delay publication until next June. I need to get some of my projects in my own guide anyway
-
And then it'll have to be delayed til the end of Diamond season...and then....
-
I might extend it to cover Shipwreck Cove
-
Pantons going to do one.
It's not as confusing as I make it sound
Tis done:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/11/12/mayfair-wall-extensions-%E2%80%93-new-ground-opened-up-at-top-of-classic-limestone-wall/ (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2013/11/12/mayfair-wall-extensions-%E2%80%93-new-ground-opened-up-at-top-of-classic-limestone-wall/)
-
Bouldering Season (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/11/bouldering-season.html)
18 November 2013, 4:07 pm
Bouldering season is here. Here are some videos:
Old Welsh bouldering footage:
Some problems at Porth Ysgo and Talfarach:
An amazing gabbro project:
First tick of bouldering season:
doylo on lotus (http://vimeo.com/79145665) from Ducko1988 (http://vimeo.com/user11310801) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com).
Ed Hamer crushing Last Malteser 8a on the Box:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Shaking like a leaf there Chris! Morning after a heavy night was it?
-
:tease:
Shaking like a leaf there Chris! Morning after a heavy night was it?
Don't have that excuse I'm afraid. Tense and trying hard!
-
:tease:Shaking like a leaf there Chris! Morning after a heavy night was it?
Don't have that excuse I'm afraid. Tense and trying hard!
Doesn't matter one iota, as long as you don't fall off. Moffatt used to shake like a shiting dog, and he was quite good at this rock climbing game.
-
:tease:Shaking like a leaf there Chris! Morning after a heavy night was it?
Don't have that excuse I'm afraid. Tense and trying hard!
Doesn't matter one iota, as long as you don't fall off. Moffatt used to shake like a shiting dog, and he was quite good at this rock climbing game.
There's a problem at Porth Ysgo named after you isn't there Mr P ;)
-
:tease:Shaking like a leaf there Chris! Morning after a heavy night was it?
Don't have that excuse I'm afraid. Tense and trying hard!
Doesn't matter one iota, as long as you don't fall off. Moffatt used to shake like a shiting dog, and he was quite good at this rock climbing game.
There's a problem at Porth Ysgo named after you isn't there Mr P ;)
TISM? - damn right there is: I shook my way to the top of the first ascent while CJD was faffing about trying to impress some Australian girl.
-
Happy New Year! (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/12/happy-new-year.html)
31 December 2013, 3:04 pm
With work, rain and injury I haven't had much chance to get out on the Welsh boulders recently but I did manage the 3rd ascent of this neo-classic at Tremeirchion:
The sitter to 36 Chambers is in my opinion one of the finest limestone problems in the country. It starts on a big chunky tufa and about four long moves lead into the stand up. The rock is bullet proof high quality limestone, the holds are lovely and it is very involved and continuous. It finishes on a jug at about 5/6 metres, the only thing it lacks is a top out. Danny Cattell made the first ascent of both the stand and the sit. He gave both 7c+(!) at the time but the stand has settled at 7c and most people think the sit is worth 8a. Strong long man Tom Newberry made the 2nd ascent of the sit in a fleeting visit in 2012. I'd always had aspirations to do the sit start but always struggled to repeat the stand let alone get it wired. The breakthrough came through sheer persistence and working out a more secure way of doing the last hard move. For most this move is slappy and accurate and you could fall there forever but I managed to put my long legs to good use and get them on the only positive foothold about. I started to feel pretty good and getting through the start consistently meant it was soon in the bag. The new beta on the top made me think it could be 7c+ for me but it is likely still 8a for the average sized man. James Noble made the 4th ascent last week and reckoned it was similar in difficulty and quality to Alphane Moon (an 8a problem in Chironico). I haven't had much chance to get out since and on Boxing Day I was scraping my windscreen when something went twang in my back. My whole middle was knackered and I couldn't even take deep breaths. So now I'm playing the waiting game praying it sorts itself out soon. I find it more than ironic that you can spend your life clinging to steep rock with little problem but can fuck yourself standing still moving your arm in a straight line!
Only a few months to go until we can dust off the ropes again and get back on the main meat. There's still at least 8 more 8cs and above for the bumpy boys to go at on the North Wales lime. I'm pretty excited about the arrival (hopefully!) of two new long awaited guidebooks to my favourite areas. Pete Harrison is coming to the end of 3 and a half years glued to his laptop putting all the passion and energy of recent times into a new North Wales lime guide. Knowing what a perfectionist he is I expect it will not disappoint. He's been going out his way to get specific photos and old areas re-equipped to make the guide the best it can possibly be. A lot has gone on in the last 4 years and this will be showcased in the new guide.
Also on the horizon is the second edition of the North Wales Bouldering guide. Panton has really mastered his craft now so expect a beautiful piece of work showcasing 8 more years of development. In fact the release date is probably dependent on him drawing a line under continued development cos as the old saying goes 'it never ends'....
Hope we get another classic summer and the crags are bustling with hangdoggers doing their thing.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Enter The Sweetcorn (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/02/enter-sweetcorn.html)
28 February 2014, 7:46 pm
2014 has pretty much been an abject washout so far. I had plans to get into the hills bouldering but record levels of precipitation put pay to that. All is not lost in these times in North Wales however. The much maligned Parisella's Cave really comes into its own in wet periods (whilst the naysayers are stuck indoors). It wasn't perfect, i couldn't try The Wire which i thought would be my next project in there. Instead i was forced right into the back trying In Hell/Life start which I'd never had much luck on in the past. With not much else going on i stuck with it and eventually started to make progress. It's 7c+/8a just to get to the Rocka jug and then you have a choice of 7c's- Rockatrocity or the Cave Life arch. On one magic go i finally got through the start and fell kicking onto left wall. This happened one more time before I went back after a bit of a rest and despatched. It's probably my hardest problem, vid here:
The weather has been on the up and it's starting to feel nice enough to get the rope out. I went out to Dyserth Waterfall to do some easy's and ended up playing on the arete between Rhubarb Wall and Strawberries Man. The crux round the base of the arete climbed really well and the top arete was easy but nice. It looks a bit squeezed in but climbs independently as Rhubarb Wall climbs to the left of the bolts and you're locked in on the arete anyway. I went back the next day to bolt it then went back again today to lead it. I forgot how new routes can make you feel excited, it doesn't need to be a major line. The name is Sweetcorn Man (some people will know what this refers too) and i reckon 7b+ish. Waterfall is a great crag if the temps are a bit low as it is sheltered and gets the sun.
Vid:
I then went on to Tremeirchion to film Danny C on his lastest project. I had spotted the potential for a right hand sitter to 22 Chambers and tipped Danny off. He worked it out and had about 5 sessions redpointing on it. The crux is a slap out left to the flatty on 22 but then you're straight into the two crux moves of 22. I knew he had been close and so was hoping to capture it on camera. After one go to get him going Danny grabbed the crux move and stretched his fingers into the backhand. The horrendous 'piano match' followed and a sketchy top out to a high jug on the arete. The problem is called Enter the Dragon(8a+) and is a great companion to 36 Sit. It's cool to think of all the stuff that's been going on on the Lleyn and comparing it to stuff like this. I think diversity is what makes North Wales bouldering special. Hurry up with that guide Panton!
Pics:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--1Xdcy6BWnU/UxDjBlBU5iI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/Q6esIsh5gzc/s320/photo+2.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--1Xdcy6BWnU/UxDjBlBU5iI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/Q6esIsh5gzc/s1600/photo+2.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-txGDg2spcsU/UxDjSe4DjgI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/HKW9vbH97rU/s320/photo+1.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-txGDg2spcsU/UxDjSe4DjgI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/HKW9vbH97rU/s1600/photo+1.JPG)
Vid:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
New Robins Routes and a bit of Gop (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-robins-routes-and-bit-of-gop.html)
14 March 2014, 8:09 pm
Pete Robins has hit the ground running this year with a couple of tasty new routes on the Little Orme. First he climbed a new 8a+ (http://news.v12outdoor.com/2014/03/06/the-runner-bean-f8a-sweetcorn-man-f7b-new-limestone-sport-routes-herald-arrival-of-spring/) at the Allotment just before the bird ban kicked in. This crag has some impressive projects but is bird banned March til August and then most head to the Diamond. On Craig-y-Don Upper he climbed a new line through the impressive roof at 8b. "Funky, cruxy with great holds and moves" was his assessment. Bit gutted I didn't check that one out myself.
Some photos by Paula Roberts:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dViMzkk4zYY/UyNe5_YsKHI/AAAAAAAAB8o/treu3IaxF9I/s320/pete+roof1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dViMzkk4zYY/UyNe5_YsKHI/AAAAAAAAB8o/treu3IaxF9I/s1600/pete+roof1.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lbKeFQu_Qpc/UyNfBrAliAI/AAAAAAAAB8w/juHnYl7vOX8/s320/peteroof2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lbKeFQu_Qpc/UyNfBrAliAI/AAAAAAAAB8w/juHnYl7vOX8/s1600/peteroof2.jpg)
I had a good sesh at the Gop with Danny C. He's looking on top form at the mo. He despatched the 2nd ascent of Dan Knights nails 8A link from Blokesmoker SS into Smoke a Bloke. You won't see many harder 8As than this. He very nearly did Dan's other nails testpiece Paper Birds 8A+ but had to rush off to work. The crag classic Push the Button is considered 7C+ these days but you can still get an 8A tick by doing it from a sitter.
Vid:
Harder Gop problems:
Paper Birds 8A+ (Dan Knight)
Blokesmoker SS/Smoke a Bloke 8A (Dan Knight)
Smoke a Bloke SS 8A (Dan Knight)
Blokesmoker SS 8A (Danny Cattell)
Push the Button SS 8A (Dan Knight)
Danny's Smoke a Bloke Eliminate 7C+ (Danny Cattell)
Push the Button 7C+ (Mule Cattell)
Smoke a Bloke 7B+ (Danny Cattell)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Spray 2nd Ascent (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/03/the-spray-2nd-ascent.html)
29 March 2014, 4:07 pm
3 years ago Sam Cattell developed a little area on the West Shore side of the Orme down on the beach. He put up some decent problems but by far the best and most significant was a burly roof affair which he christened The Spray (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=507). The Spray is a really pure hard bloc and has received little attention since the FA. Globetrotter Dave Mason is keen on seeking out the esoteric gems as well as crushing global classics and this problem had long been on his radar. On his first day in Wales he popped to Craig Pont-y-Pant (aka Rhiw Goch) and made a casual flash of Lightweight(8A) and Badgers in The Mist(7C). It's worth noting that Ride the Wild Smurf is at least the same grade as Lightweight if not harder so probably deserves 8A too. He then dashed over to Maes Newyddion and did the first flash of Roof of a Baby Buddha (7C+). Next day we headed down to West Shore to try The Spray. Floppy Chris had been down recently and reckoned the starting holds may have suffered some storm damage. It certainly wasn't how I remembered it and Mule's right hand first sequence seemed unfeasible. We won't know for sure unless the man himself goes down for a look. Anyway for Dave it was obvious that going left hand first would be the way. After some huffing and puffing to even get off the ground he started slapping for a slopey edge just before the jug. He busted it out eventually and kept it together on the next tricky moves and topped out. He reckoned 8a+ for pure burl factor and I think he's on the money. Just getting off the ground is desperate.
Vid:
Dave finished off his trip with Sway On (8A), Mr Fantastic (8A) and 14 Years Later and Fish Pie (both 7C+). Not a bad few days work!
I've had a productive couple of weeks ticking some good boulders and opening my routes account with Simon Says (8a) and Meaty Madness (8a+). Meaty Madness at Dyserth Waterfall is a link up but it's a bloody brilliant bit of climbing. The first roof on Meatsville Arizona is harder and even better since the juggy break fell off. I also managed In Hell which is my hardest bouldering tick, definitely harder than In Life. Hard 7C+ into hard 7C with no breather. Some vids of other stuff:
Buddha:
Lizard King, a gem of the Llanberis Pass:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Last Proj's (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/last-projs.html)
30 April 2014, 8:18 pm
Warmer times have arrived and it's all steam ahead on the sport crags. I don't think there will be as many new routes as previous years this time around but there are still plums out there for the lucky ones. I've been lucky enough over the last few years to do every route i've bolted bar two. The Big Crunch will quite possibly be the hardest route in Wales so i see that one more as my gift to the Orme rather than something i'd have chance on. Pete Robins is making good progress however and with a bit of luck he might get it this year. My other project is a link up at Llanddulas that i bolted in 2011. It is a link up of Last Crusade and Temple of Gloom but the hard bit is a new section in the middle of the roof of about 7/8 moves. I'd figured out the first hard move but couldn't suss the rest and only had a couple of attempts over the next few years. My seige of Parisellas culminated in In Hell and In Heaven, the two hardest bits of climbing i'd done so it seemed like a good time to get back on the roof. I started to figure out a sequence and was it definitely felt more feasible this year. It was still damn hard however and i still couldn't link the crux moves. One day i'd had a quick go on Liquid Ambar in the morning then headed to the proj with Tommy and Sausage. I may have had a sequence but i still couldn't do it. Liquid Ambar genuinely felt like a more feasible proposition. I was on the verge of giving up again. I couldn't link the new section on it's own and it was in the middle of the roof with the redpoint crux of Temple still to come at the end. Pete Robins asked to have a go and i thought it would be a good idea to get some help with it. Pete came up with some wacky contorted sequence which he reckoned was Font 7C+. It lit my fire a bit and i returned with fresh ideas and motivation. The next few sessions i made great progress. I found a crucial kneebar rest before Temple which would mean the fitness aspect was not quite as obscene. It's a bomber knee with a pad but your toe is on a smear in the roof so it's quite intense and you can't chill for as long as you'd like. The crucial moment came when i tried some madcap beta for the crux and hey presto it worked. It amazes me how often this happens on a new bit or rock. You think you've tried everything, can't find a nice way to do it then some amazing method that fits you well comes from nowhere. Now i could link from the first hard move after Last Crusade through to the kneebar. This was getting exciting! The obvious thing to do would be to do that link to the end of the route so i sussed out the end of Temple again and found more efficient beta than 4 years ago when i did the FA. This is a perfect hard project for me- my style, 10 minutes from home, an FA, all but for one little detail which has really dampened my sprits. Two of the slots on Temple seem to be perma-wet these days. I know it's only April but i have little optimism about their drying prospects as they were wet in July last year when Tommy did Temple. They are greasy, minging little bastards and they're really spoiling my fun at the moment. Add to that the fact that two more holds have become weirdly greasy and i'm struggling to know what to do for the best. I can only hope things improve as i'm going to need a lot of sessions to have a chance on this thing this year and i can't hold wet grips. Despite the adversity i'm obsessed my this thing, it's fuckin meaty and amazing. I love looking back from Temple at this cool groove line dissecting the big roof.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otvoNxjnJBY/U2FZQtMuMxI/AAAAAAAAB9E/1SJznnfmfv8/s400/20140424193008(1).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-otvoNxjnJBY/U2FZQtMuMxI/AAAAAAAAB9E/1SJznnfmfv8/s1600/20140424193008(1).jpg)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Fantastic looking project that! You weren't lying
-
The Welsh Grotte de Sabart
-
Last Proj's (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/04/last-projs.html)
30 April 2014, 8:18 pm
I found a crucial kneebar rest before Temple which would mean the fitness aspect was not quite as obscene.
With a little help ;)
-
If you can work out where the wetness is coming from in the slots, put a smear of sika over the crack it comes out of and it might make it better. I've done that before and it works. P.S don't do a Revalations and fill the slots in.
-
I've already filled the back of the slots. You think that's a mistake Ru? Would be pretty hard to pinpoint where the waters coming from and it's awkward to get into the back of them. Think atmospheric conditions plays a part too. It's been quite hazy lately.
-
More Gop Goodness (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/05/more-gop-goodness.html)
11 May 2014, 5:13 pm
I love the Gop! In a world of technical wizadry, kneebars, cheeky heels and toes there is something refreshing about this hardcore little cave where tension and fingers are king. There's no getting around these problems, if your feet can't stick to the slopey feet and your fingers can't handle the small slopey crimps then move on! The occasional minimal toe hook is the only aid in progressing through this roof. Back in 2012 Dan Knight gave the crag its hardest problem. Paper Birds (8A+) was a hybrid line but with 3 nails moves it repelled all would be repeaters - until yesterday! Tom Newman had made a few recent visits and on his best attempts dropped the last hard move. Danny Cattell had also dropped this move a few times so it seemed like a repeat was finally on the cards. Tom returned yesterday to finish it off then a few hours later i went up with Danny and he did it too. The boys reckoned hard 8A+ for this beast. I'd recently spotted a few projects and i pointed Danny at the one on the right. This had a obvious start right on the back wall and came out through almost the widest part of the roof. He quickly worked out some beta and then much to our surprise he managed to pull it out the bag. He was a bit unsure about the grade but he was obviously having a strong day and was growling a fair bit so reckoned it was probably 8A. The name is Ken Masters (another streefighter reference) and is the Gops 6th grade 8. I did the moves on the other project, a low start to E Honda but both starting undercuts pulled off so that was that, gutted. The left hand undercut was also the starting toe hook on Blokesmoker Low. It makes it slightly more tensiony for tall people but adds a fair bit for shorties. Still no luck for me on Push the Button sit despite doing the original 3 times yesterday. I just can't do the crux climbing into it. E Honda 7B is excellent and well worth doing. The 7B to the right Streetfighter has lost holds so is an unknown quantity now. Long live the Gop!
Film of Paper Birds, ken Masters and others:
Some old news from Trem - Ned Feehally linked Enter the Dragon into 36 sitter. Enter the Chamber is still 8A+ because you get a resting kneebar on the starting tufa of 36. He also climbed into 22 Chambers from the sit position of Iron Flag to give 7th Chamber 7C+.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The One That Got Away (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/06/the-one-that-got-away.html)
17 June 2014, 10:54 am
Most link ups are just an excuse to keep climbing on a bit of rock that you like. Sometimes they appeal because they present a hard physical challenge that has always seemed beyond your abilities. On the Pill Box the last link up has been staring me in the face for the last 6 years, something that should be attainable but at the same time feels like the next level. Straight after the crux of Drink Driving is a 4 move 7B+ up line with a crux last move off a wee crimper. I've never really felt in good enough shape to seige this link, in 2012 when i did the finish up Last Orders i had a few goes at finishing up Last Rites but never even managed the first move off a wide pinch. Fast forward to April this year and i was on a bit of ticking spree, i knew had to go and try the link. Sure enough i got through DD first go and for the first time managed the first move of Last Rites. I fell off tickling the crimp in amazement, this meant it was possible. For a couple more sessions i still had the magic on it, on my best day i greased off the last move and told myself i'd come back after a rest. I returned and just didn't feel as good and never have again since. For this thing i need to feel like a feather, it isn't a problem that's going to succomb to my usual siege tactic, if i feel really good i can get through DD but i need to feel amazing to have a chance on the whole link. So now i know it's possible but need to wait for another window of elevated form, pretty frustrating but i've learned one thing - always have another go!
Vid of my best attempt:
One that did go down, The Wire (great climbing):
A couple of other problems on the Box:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Looks close Chris, one more foot move and one more hand move. Makes me shiver just seeing that northerly wind!
-
Dulas Big Numbers (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/07/dulas-big-numbers.html)
27 July 2014, 12:41 pm
A few months ago i blogged about the big link (http://www.doylosblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/last-projs.html) project up at Llanddulas. I had a few more sessions but never made much progress and the greasy slots prevented much linkage. My attempts to stop the water by filling the back with resin made one of them smaller so i had to drill it back out to return it to its former depth. I've lost count of the number of days i've spent hanging in this roof on my own doing little 'jobs'. There always seems to be something that needs doing. Climbers can be a miserable bunch, as the masses rejoice in the hot weather the sport climbers and boulderers grumble about humidity and conditions. Options are limited for hard climbing when it is so bloody warm. The main cave at Dulas is pretty much heatproof and so a great option in the stifling temps. I was lowering down from Zoidberg in the Cave when i spotted a couple of holds between the finish of Temple and Last Crusade. I got a rope down the line and there was indeed another potential finish- there looked to be enough holds. I bolted it up and got on it, straight away a crucial hold fell off so i had to come back with glue. After using some shitty old resin that didn't set i finally got the hold sorted and returned with Pete Robins. I worked out some of the moves and he sorted some good foot beta for the crux. The finish comes straight out the roof from the kneebar on the link project and you could start up either Temple or Last Crusade.
Pete working out the heel/toehook combination for the powerful crux:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m62rBE-ytKU/U9TrmFQiZrI/AAAAAAAAB9c/9f1KcpjOhSs/s320/image.jpeg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m62rBE-ytKU/U9TrmFQiZrI/AAAAAAAAB9c/9f1KcpjOhSs/s1600/image.jpeg)
I've had about 4 sessions working the end now and it still feels pretty tough. It's fiddly to sort your feet out coming out of the shit kneebar and then the powerful crux feels desperate. I had a nice sequence with a wide undercut pinch but the rock is so slick and smooth by the time i've pulled up on it i'm greasing off so i had to figure out another way using a heel on a small spike. This finish is about fb7C and starting up Temple is about f8a/+ to get there. It feels like a really hard sequence to have at the end of a big roof. Hopefully i'll link the end soon but the thought of linking it all seems unfeasible for now. The moves aren't as hard as the link project but you've done much more to get there. Still it's nearly always decent conditions and is 10 minutes from my house so i have to look at the positives! If i get to having good redpoints this year i think i'll be satisfied. This style suits me but my best ascents in Parisella's were years in the making and to transfer that level to a new bit of rock and having to clip bolts is going to take some doing. Everything is magnified when you get a rope on, it's a much harder proposition than bouldering just off the deck. It's cool that the Dulas has a few potential big numbers now. Doing the new finish from Last Crusade could be 8c+, who would have thought it! And there's still the main aid line out the front if Ondra ever pops in (highly unlikely).
I thought i'd better give potential belayers another reason to go there so i bolted up an obvious alternative start to Zoidberg traversing into the end of Temple. It proved to be a fun addition with a crux slap to the black boss at the end of Temple before climbing to the ledge and finishing up the 6c. It's called Catch the Pigeon and is 7b.
Vid:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Pink Star (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-pink-star.html)
9 August 2014, 8:39 pm
It was inevitable that the constant stream of new grade 8's on the North Wales lime would slow down eventually. After a steady stream of big numbers since 2009 (many of which nationally significant) there comes a time where the do-able lines start to run out. There are still some ripe plums out there but perhaps not enough keen beasts to step up to the plate. If there's one man you can always rely on though it's Pete Robins-North Wales master crusher of hard new lines. After 5 years of hard seiging though even Pete's resilience had to wane at some point. He picked off a couple of grade 8's at the Allotment and Craig y Don earlier in the year and then had some sessions on The Big Crunch project down LPT. This could provide the potential step up he'd been looking for although after several sessions it proved to be too much of a step up for now. Bransby made it look doable but he didn't return and Pete sacked it off. Pete climbed himself into form by establishing Ropes of Maui (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=734) in the Pass and he knew he had some unfinished business come Diamond season. Back in the first year of the Diamond renaissance, Pete Harrison bolted (along with a load of re-equipping) a big diagonal crack feature on the right hand side of the crag. It was a striking and unique line that had future classic written all over it. The following year Johnny Ratcliffe climbed the lower diagonal at 8a and last year Pete Robin's did an obvious connection between the two at 8b+. The Pink Panther joined the top crack about halfway along but the obvious challenge was the feature in it's entirety and Pete immediately set about working on it. As the nights drew in and the conditions deteriorated he knew his time was up for that year but the route was top of the agenda for August 2014. As soon as the birds had vacated the crag Pete got back on the crack and soon picked up where he left off last year. After some beta refinements he was back at his previous highpoint and with time on his side the first ascent seemed inevitable. Today he finished it off to give The Pink Star (8c+), another quality hard route which unfortunately just missed the guidebook cut off point. It is an amazing route and is the sixth 8c+ in the area.
Pete checking out the holds in 2009:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-foP1zWddZm4/U-aEzWpKWgI/AAAAAAAAB9s/7z8_1q1YgnA/s320/Diag+proj.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-foP1zWddZm4/U-aEzWpKWgI/AAAAAAAAB9s/7z8_1q1YgnA/s1600/Diag+proj.jpg)
Recent shots:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJaDDLYffjU/U-aGYUfWQzI/AAAAAAAAB94/N19dgUa6Mk4/s320/image(2).jpeg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJaDDLYffjU/U-aGYUfWQzI/AAAAAAAAB94/N19dgUa6Mk4/s1600/image(2).jpeg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lTtAVZynwfY/U-aGpTakfHI/AAAAAAAAB-A/VMRkYaAiA5A/s320/image(1).jpeg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lTtAVZynwfY/U-aGpTakfHI/AAAAAAAAB-A/VMRkYaAiA5A/s1600/image(1).jpeg)
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Don't you prefer the brown star Doylo? ::)
-
:tumble:
Don't you prefer the brown star Doylo? ::)
That would have been my choice yes ...
-
One For The Road (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/08/one-for-road.html)
22 August 2014, 2:49 pm
Back in 2008 I was sat under a snowy 8B Swiss boulder problem with Keith Bradbury and we were talking about big numbers. I remember telling Keith about a project link up on Pill Box Wall that would be 'my 8B'. That year I'd done a new up line in front of the Box, the second i topped it the big challenge was laid down. It was so obvious, straight after the crux of Drink Driving launch straight into the 7B+ with no rest to create a crimpy power endurance beast. The years past and although I didn't really try the last link the challenge was omnipresent and always niggled away at the back of my mind. It was looking unlikely that I'd ever have the tools for this one. The first breakthrough came in 2012 when for the first time i managed to get through the original traverse more than once or twice. I even managed to finish up Last Orders, a 7A right at the end of the box. I returned with the hard link in mind but never managed the first move of Last Rites, in truth it was still miles away. Roll forward to 2014 and after a intense Cave campaign I managed to do the first move of Last Rites from the start for the first time. 3 sessions later I was still getting through Drink Driving and on my best go greased off just as I was getting my foot up for the last move. Climbing can be a cruel sport and I've been on the rollercoaster long enough to know that every time you think you've cracked it there's a bumpy descent back to earth just around the corner. I returned for another 4 sessions and sure enough the window of opportunity had closed. Unlike most the stuff I've done I couldn't seige this one, it just didn't work. Normal level was falling on the cross under of DD. Elevated level was needed to have any kind of chance and even then it probably wouldn't be enough. Frustrated I walked away and continued with my summer trying to forget how close I had been. After seiging a new line in Llanddulas i had suspected i might be finding form again so returned to the Box to have a look. Straight away I felt light and floaty - essential conditions to have any kind of chance. I got through DD 3 times that sesh but only made it past the first move of LR once. I knew I had to return quick before the window closed again. After a rest day I returned, I didn't feel quite as floaty but made it through DD, this time I nailed the slap off the pinch. I got my feet up stretched to the crimp, my foot popped but I moved quickly and got rocked over for the last hard move to the good pocket. It felt like I was eyeing it up for an eternity, I slapped expecting everything to pop but somehow I landed it perfectly. The last move was fine and I jumped onto the box and that was that. It's only another link up on the Pill Box but for me it's been there taunting me for fucking years and has always been a bit too hard. One for The Road could be the hardest thing I ever do so I'm going to savour it even if it is a link up in front of a toilet. Compared to the 4 8A+'s I did in the Cave this year it feels like hard 8A+ (or 8c if you think such things should be given route grades). IIRC Ben Freeman, Ed Hamer and Dan Knight all thought Drink Driving sneaked in at 8A+ (Barrows thought 8A but he could keep his feet on a good low foot on the two crux moves). I would say it feels 8A/+ to me now (I struggle to believe i can lap 8A+). Last Rites is pretty soft for 7B+ too but its short and the last hold is a pretty small crimp (plus the feet are small which feels hard when the tensions gone). Time to start going there and back now ;) (well if it's good enough for the Bleausards.......)
Vid:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Raiders of the Dark Ark (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/08/raiders-of-dark-ark.html)
25 August 2014, 9:13 pm
Just under a month ago I blogged (http://www.doylosblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/dulas-big-numbers.html) about a new project I'd bolted at the mighty Llanddulas Cave. I didn't really fancy my chances back then and redpoints seemed a mile off as I was struggling to work out the tricky finishing moves. I persevered and finally the moves came together with some beta tweaks. The first time I managed to link from the kneebar to the end I was totally in bulk and couldn't have done another move! In my mind it was still something to train for over winter for next year. From the next session onwards everything changed, I don't know why but it just felt a lot easier. The moves were solid and I managed a link from further back to the end. I then did it from the 3rd bolt to the end and that meant redpoints. After re-aquainting myself with the start of Temple (I hadn't been on it for 4 years) I soon made it to the kneebar but was totally boxed. Every session I made progress and I was bracing myself for the inevitable backwards session where you suddenly start falling off everywhere and the stress starts to kick in. On redpoint session 4 I found myself at the last move pulling into a good sidepull that marked the end of the hard climbing. It wasn't to be as my heel ripped off the small spike but I knew it was on from that point. One big problem I faced was that on every link I'd done to the end my hamstring had pulled on the heel move. When I did it one redpoint i could feel it from my calf up to my arse. I knew I couldn't keep pulling my leg and that if i got to that move again I really needed to top out. This created a bit of pressure and I thought about it a lot over the next week. A week later I returned with Luke Clarke, the conditions had been amazing for a few weeks and this day was no different. First redders I powered out on the last hard move. Then i dropped the start and the middle and on the 4th RP I found myself hanging off my heel rocking up to the sidepull. I got it and grabbed the big undercut and reached the jugs. As I was rocking over the finishing hold a big jug I'd been using started wobbling giving a heart in mouth moment. Luckily there was another one and i clipped the lower off ever so slightly chuffed. This roof really does give excellent hard climbing. It's like a non polished version of Parisellas with better rock and cooler holds. Raiders of the Dark Ark does the Font 7B start to Temple to the 3rd bolt then does a hard toe hook move right to a kneebar (I slipped off here quite a bit). The kneebar felt pretty good on the redpoints and was a decent rest for the arms if a bit sapping for the core. The route then busts straight through the roof with some cool foot beta and finishes at the ledge at the same height as Last Crusade. The end felt 7C when I was working it but more like 7B+ when I had it wired. I considered topping out up the 6b Lord Nibbler but after doing the route again I decided it wasn't really in keeping with the bottom as you end up chimneying up both walls. I'm pretty sure it's 8b+ but you never know, it's certainly a grade harder than Temple and didn't take long enough to warrant 8c. All in all a great surprise that I didn't even know existed until 6 weeks ago. Sometimes it does feel like the climbing gods are looking after you. It's not the end for this roof as the link project is still to go and you could do that into this finish too. It was the end of a great week for me in which I managed my hardest problem and hardest route in 3 days. The steroids are finally paying off.
Start of Temple:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mUbv1cKjQFI/U_ukEf-d4NI/AAAAAAAAB-o/c4DxOjfv87U/s320/image(5).jpeg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mUbv1cKjQFI/U_ukEf-d4NI/AAAAAAAAB-o/c4DxOjfv87U/s1600/image(5).jpeg)
The kneebar rest:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zIxvKqLo7Ls/U_ukdTbEVnI/AAAAAAAAB-w/L0-nBqW8nko/s320/image(4).jpeg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zIxvKqLo7Ls/U_ukdTbEVnI/AAAAAAAAB-w/L0-nBqW8nko/s1600/image(4).jpeg)
The crux sequence:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e_H8ZO4SI8Y/U_ulYTr5rmI/AAAAAAAAB_A/gYEOs8vJH8I/s320/image(3).jpeg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e_H8ZO4SI8Y/U_ulYTr5rmI/AAAAAAAAB_A/gYEOs8vJH8I/s1600/image(3).jpeg)
Footage of the FA:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
''Take. Fuck Off!''
:2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
-
What a week! Nice one Doylo. :icon_beerchug:
-
Nice one :strongbench:
-
:dance1:
-
Cheers hombres
-
The Guide Is Here!! (part 1) (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/09/the-guide-is-here.html)
30 September 2014, 9:07 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1VzSjTjQY0/VCmvVARwjBI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/8kA58WFF3sk/s320/nwl+guide.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1VzSjTjQY0/VCmvVARwjBI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/8kA58WFF3sk/s1600/nwl+guide.png)
I never thought I'd see the day! 17 years after the last guide to the area we finally have a shiny new book packed full of all the developments and inspiring pictures to boot. Four years ago when I found out Rockfax were going to produce a new North Wales lime guide I was initially pretty chuffed. It was badly needed as the previous edition came out in 1997, a lifetime in climbing terms. I was less chuffed when I found out the guide wasn't going to be definitive. Like many people I believe the decline of definitive guidebooks would be a trend that would be detrimental to our historic areas. Not long after Rockfax announced their intentions to produce a new edition I heard about the bolt funds proposal to produce it's own guide to the area with all the proceeds going straight back into the fund that preserves many of our great crags. This seemed like a no brainer to me, the bolt fund guide would utilise the extensive knowledge of the many activists who'd been climbing in the area for many many years. It had the potential to galvanise the local scene and promote the continued work out there on the crags. New routing, re-equipping, bringing some old areas back to life and making the area a better place to play. Of course most the work in guidebook production is sat on a chair staring at a computer screen and to make a product that was on a par with some of the excellent guides that have come out of the UK in recent years was going to be some challenge. Mr Motivator himself, Pete Harrison was the man at the helm. Pete (with no previous design experience) was about to take a crash course guidebook production. He set about learning the basics of the various design software before fully immersing himself in the massive task. An optimistic 2 year release date had been pencilled in but it was soon apparent that this would be someway short of the reality. Pete had a full time job and his own climbing aspirations at the crag. The emails would come in at a regular pace, requests for re-equipping and route checking. Even getting people to pose for photos on specific routes wasn't easy. Pete had a vision for his guide, getting the exact shots to highlight lesser trod classics was important as was making the book as well researched as it could reasonably be. Andy Boorman was Pete's right hand man and invaluable to the whole process. He was out at the crags clipboard in hand and back home sending over text for Pete to process. As the years ticked by Pete's motivation ebbed and flowed and eventually the finish line started to come into view. It's crazy really, not many people would spend 4 years of their life and thousands and thousands of hours glued to a laptop (and out on the crags researching) without making a penny out of it. Well it has been 4 years and now the guide is in the shops, a true labour of love and a fitting tribute to this historic area.
Flicking through the guide it is immediately apparent that the fears we'd end up with an 'amateurish' product were unnecessary. The design and layout is what you would expect from a quality modern production and akin to it's contemporaries. When you get one in your hand it becomes a bit more apparent why it took so damn long! It's a real beast, 452 pages of sporty/trad goodness. This is bolstered by 26 pages of history and this is a real asset to the book in my opinion. Not only is it an interesting read but it's a important record of what our Orme hero's of yesteryear got up to. There are quotes and anecdotes from some of the big players in Orme history - Edwards, Pollitt, Moon, Moffatt and Carson and the more recent development is catalogued in more detail. Photography wise Pete had many specific shots in mind for the book. He could have easily have filled the book with photos from the honeypot crags but as with the rest of the guide doing justice to some of the adventurous classics was extremely important to him. The shot of Will Oates on Ocean of Emotion on Detritus Wall is a prime example. A classic but rarely climbed on immaculate wall that now is shown off in full glory. Surely these little tempters will entice the more curious consumer onto these superb but committing walls. Going the extra mile isn't essential from a commercial point of view but it what makes the best guides. The various historical shots are also a welcome addition and provide a nice contrast with the current crop of heroes (Pete Robins!). The graded list illustrates that there are many more hard routes to go at in the area (only starred routes make it in however). 8c+ is the grade for the bumpy boys, 8cs and 8b+s are still a bit thin on the ground. There are some notable but necessary upgrades. Finally Masterclass and Oyster get the offical upgrade to 8a (they're old skool nails) as does Central Pillar on the Gwynt. Liquid Ambar gets bumped to 8c+ making it the first 8c+ in the world (still needs more repeats to confirm). Pete has adopted a slightly harsher star system for the book, this means that some very good routes get 0 or 1 star and this has been a slight bone of contention with a couple of locals (on Upper Pen Trwyn in particular). The key though is that there is relative consistency and although some routes might appear to be undersold you really know your onto a winner when you get on a 2 or 3 star route. All in all it's a pretty amazing effort that really shows the area off in it's best light. I've got a mini interview with Pete that I'll add in a day or two. I didn't want to stick in on the end of this as it would make it a massive post.
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
The Guide is Here (part 2) (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2014/10/the-guide-is-here-part-2.html)
5 October 2014, 3:47 pm
I asked principal author Pete Harrison a few questions about the whole ordeal:
4 years later and the jobs done! How does it feel to have the finished product in your hand? Elation or just relief?
It feels awesome, a satisfying elixir of elation and relief! If I could synthesize the feeling into handy pill form I’d take one every day for the rest of my life.
When you took this project on did you appreciate the true scale of the task and if not when did the enormity of it sink in?
No, I didn’t appreciate the scale, and if I had I probably wouldn’t have started! I was so naïve starting out. The 1st year was all optimism, learning and excitement at seeing rudimentary topos and descriptions taking form on the pages of the InDesign software – when I look back now my early efforts look terrible. The 2nd year was still naïve optimism but by the end of this year it dawned on me how big a task this was going to be. The 3rd year was a hard grind with lots of dog-days of despair, including despair at not being able to climb due to a long-term back problem. By the 4th year I was running on fumes mentally, and I picked up lots of niggly climbing injuries whist trying to get back into climbing following an operation I’d had on my back the autumn before. I think the niggly injuries were partly a result of just being mentally exhausted from working hard to finish the book and partly a classic case of starting climbing again after a long lay-off. Things are all good now though, finally.
What were the main challenges/headaches during the process?
Well as a complete beginner to the process there were lots. Learning the finer details of InDesign, Illustrator and Photoshop was tricky - I must have spent hundreds of hours reading online tutorials on how to achieve some subtle design effect which most people won’t even notice.
Trying to write and do design at the same time. I learned that for me it’s almost impossible to combine design/layout type tasks with writing – like the challenge of rotating your foot clockwise and drawing a number 6 in the air with your finger (your foot reverses to anticlockwise) - the two processes demand more than my limited ‘processor’ could handle at once.
Alan James’ domineering approach to all things guidebooks was initially a headache, which quickly turned into an advantage that spurred me on to prove that you don’t need to be rockfax to produce a visually appealing guide, whilst still remaining definitive and properly researched. Actually the BMC and others have already proved you can have your cake and eat it, and I used these as the model to aim for.
Although this was a mainly a joint effort by you and Andy how important was the local scene in checking routes/providing information/cleaning and equipping etc?
Very important, the guide is a sum of the knowledge of many local climbers. That said, it was very difficult to get feedback for a lot of out-of-the-way stuff. Other than Andy and me, three people probably did 70% of the route-checking. Almost everybody wants and appreciates a good definitive guidebook, with up-to-date, accurate and inspiring content, however - despite me preaching the merits of definitive guides - the bottom line is hardly anybody wants to do the legwork necessary to produce one. People just want to go climbing, which is understandable. In theory it should be simple to organise some fact-checking, I mean it’s only collecting fairly basic information, but it isn’t easy in practice. I think a lot of climbers are relatively conservative and, dare I say it, self-interested by nature - it’s hard to persuade people to do something different to their usual climbing routine, like check a route - any route(!) - for the sake of the ‘greater good’ of having accurate guidebook descriptions or grades. They might want to try to onsight it the future! So you need either: an ego-less bumbly who doesn’t mind abbing routes to check details; or, better: a wad with an appreciation of what’s required to produce a definitive guidebook (and the willingness to help) who can just rock up and climb most routes. I’m not ego-less, and there are quite a few routes I didn’t want to abb inspect. Luckily we had said wad - in the form of Pete Robins – who knows what it takes to produce a definitive guide. Most of the recent definitive guidebooks in N.Wales have been greatly improved by Pete’s route-checking, script writing and willingness to help. When he stops being a great climber he’ll make a great guidebook author (incentive to never stop being good then). Tim Neill also deserves special mention – so many routes climbed and so much feedback volunteered. Tim and Pete’s efforts improved immensely the quality of this guide. (you did a great job with the history btw Chris!). All the chapter contributors did a great job.
Part of a guidebook’s job is to encourage people, give them more options. I think we’ve done a good job of giving people more options to consider on NW Limestone, but I do feel like I failed to highlight a few of the more esoteric and harder routes, mostly this is down to not being able to do it all myself - I had too much to do at times, as well as being out of action for a large chunk after surgery - and sometimes it was down to other people not stepping up to the plate. Routes such as the two E6s on the Gwynt either side of Psychic didn’t even have someone ab them to check the pegs/description; I did ask! Checking’s important because most (not all) climbers go for the knowns over the unknowns – few want to quest onsight up unchecked E6s with potentially crucial but potentially untrustworthy 30-year old pegs. The continuing popularity of trad climbing, about which some people get quite zealous, relies on people wanting to repeat the routes if they aren’t to become ignored and forgotten about. Good E6s and harder that aren’t just bold are a limited resource - especially on limestone where the climbing style and rock more often suits sport climbing. So I think it’s important to do all you can to look after precious trad routes by checking and highlighting the good ones (as well as look after the sport routes by using proper equipment). It’s not rocket science why some trad climbs get attention while others slip into obscurity and never get repeats, and new routes are a very limited resource in this country.
Re-equipping work. It’s been the lifeblood which has revitalised the NW Limestone area. What can you say – 99% of climbers will never know much about it. I noticed the rubbish state of the fixed gear in the area when I got back in 2008 from 4 years spent living in Canada. Out there, climbers seem to have more of a can-do attitude – like ‘I can drive an hour into a wilderness, then hike another 1.5 hours to a cliff, develop a sick sport route and use proper equipment’. Back home in the UK, there were so many cliffs 5 minutes from the road with 2and 3 star routes which had been consigned to the scrapheap and forgotten about. It’s an attitude full of negativity, but one that’s a result of what went before. It’s a shame that so much unsustainable junk was placed by climbers on routes during the 70s, 80s and 90s that, around here, it has required a small band of local climbers to dedicate countless thousands of hours over the last 20 years to re-equip many hundreds of routes, time that could have been spent climbing instead. Sometimes it seems like clearing up someone else’s shoddy work. It isn’t black and white though, people weren’t aware in the 70s and perhaps the early 80s… but later on they were – Dave Lyon was placing stainless bolts in the early 90s which are bomber today, but very few others bothered, we know who you are! ?
And re-equipping thousands of mild steel bolts is enough to turn anyone against pegs on trad routes – placing and leaving pegs is just littering routes with unsustainable junk that rapidly rusts; just so a climber could climb it with an acceptable margin of safety and claim a route. It isn’t my idea of how to play the trad game. Even when winter climbing most of us try our best to remove pegs on second and I’d say about 95% of the time succeed - of course we have the tools to do so - but so should rock climbers really if they were (or are) considering placing pegs, I can’t think of a reasonable justification for leaving rusting junk all over the cliffs, although I can think of justifications related to ego.
How important was it to you to do justice to the more esoteric/ adventurous areas on the Ormes?
Ha well as the above suggest, very important. The remote cliffs are just as good as LPT/Pen Trwyn. It’s just that Pen Trwyn is so roadside and convenient and most people are so lazy – you have to drive right past loads of good climbing to get to the Lighthouse area on the Orme – and you can’t even see the cliffs! Also it’s a reflection of how time-pressed are a lot of people - a sign of the times - life in the UK is harsh on the poor in a way it didn’t used to be, better work hard…hmmm.
I’ve loved exploring the more remote cliffs and I made it one of my aims to try to showcase the areas away from Pen Trwyn/LPT. The afternoon/evening light on some of these cliffs is magical, as is the climbing.
How important was it to you to get the guide out in App format too?
It just made sense to me, the handheld device formats are only going to get more popular so why wouldn’t you go in that direction? Well, one good reason would be if you had to develop an App framework yourself. But luckily you don’t - there already exists a high quality App guidebook platform - Steve Golley has produced a fantastic App framework for any publisher to enter their books into: TheSend App. Most climbers probably won’t have heard much about TheSend Apps - Steve’s not the self-promoting type, but hopefully he won’t need to be in the next year or so when people see how good a product he’s built. Although, the owner of the most popular climbing discussion forum/climbing news website in the UK is determined to control the message and dominate the market, by promoting his own rockfax products and encourage online discussion about them while censoring any discussion of ‘competitors’ products from his forum on the pretext of not promoting commercial products - oh the irony!
I don’t think that’s a healthy environment, because a lot of people believe forum’s like these are an open discussion. But that’s one of the outcomes when you have discussion forums run by a business – it’s entirely justifiable, in business terms, to work the market (i.e. the users of a discussion forum that you’ve built) to your advantage, and for better or worse climbing is now seen by some as a lucrative marketplace.
The last 5 years have been frantic on North Wales lime. What have been the personal highlights for you and how much better shape would you say the area is in now?
Yeah lots of new routes to keep up with – you did pretty well for yourself! The NW lime area – away from Pen Trwyn and LPT - can now be appreciated by climbers of all abilities without the previously common experience of going to a supposedly great route, away from the honey pots (and even on LPT or PT), and finding it to be full of rusted non-stainless junk. There are so many good climbs to (re)discover.
Personal highlights? Too many to list, but I think the cover shot of the new guide sums up a personal highlight of climbing on NW lime – 30 metres up a new route you’ve created, on an adventurous cliff in a wonderful setting off the beaten path, that you’d wondered about whether it would be possible to create something on, in the golden evening glow with the sound of the sea crashing and the seagulls squawking!
Small things, like re-equipping a good route which hasn’t been climbed in twenty years – it’s almost as good as doing a new route; seeing LPT become popular again; Dyer getting his finger out and putting up the first ascents of Megalopa, The Brute and Dumpster Divers in one week; Pete repeating every hard route in the area except two (so far) and establishing his own raft of hard classics - route after route at 8b to 8c+ - has anyone matched him for volume of hard new routes in the UK in recent years? Seeing Dave Lyon and Norm Clacher getting psyched by the new guide for new-routing – what a pair of enduring leg ends!; opening up the Diamond with a novel approach and seeing it develop each season; and I’ve loved doing every new route because it always feels like an exciting creative process with a satisfying and tangible end result. A bit like creating a new book!
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Very good lads :strongbench:
-
Doylo - random Q. What Font grade for Masterplan? Gonna be down there next wk Cave style with the missus. Might sneak in a rope.
-
Siege (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2015/11/siege.html)
8 November 2015, 1:43 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0XSCoWAB_ys/Vj9NLcV9X2I/AAAAAAAACAc/1LdG5B3PiWA/s320/20150820202956%25281%2529.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0XSCoWAB_ys/Vj9NLcV9X2I/AAAAAAAACAc/1LdG5B3PiWA/s1600/20150820202956%25281%2529.jpg)First and last post of 2015! The old blog, it's nice to look at the old posts as it documents a frenzied period of development on the North Wales lime. I can't really be bothered with it these days but I feel the need for a cathartic vent about this year's siege. After spending the first half of the year ticking some boulder problems and sieging Enter the Dragon at Trem I got back on longstanding link project at Llanddulas. After dispatching Raiders in good time last year it seemed like the time to finally try and crack the beta on the crux section. I bolted this section back in 2011 but never really came up with a decent sequence on the crux move.
In April I rigged up a little tension line between two of the bolts and sat there for a while trying to come up with something. One thing I'm good at is doggedly trying the same move over and over even when all hope has seemingly evaporated. On the rope I managed to reach the good pocket before the kneebar using a dropknee. This seemed like a goer but i needed to return with a belayer to try it properly. On my return I found it couldn't get to the intermediate to do it that way but I could just about go from further back although it was a much bigger, faster move. By mid May I had done this move into Temple and through the last hard move, encouraging progress. The next goal was to do it from the start of the crux section to the end. I was buzzing over it now, the sequence really flowed, 7 hand moves to the kneebar then 11 moves to the ledge. One day at the end of May I pulled up the rope to try the link, I took my weight on the tiny 3 finger backhand then 'crack'. I let go instantly, my finger had gone off like a shotgun. It sounded like a classic ruptured pulley. I sacked it off and spent the next week depressed, just as I was getting somewhere i had to stop, maybe for the year. After a few weeks my finger felt surprisingly good, this didn't seem like a pulley rupture after all. Easy routes felt fine and I started to think I could be back on the proj after all. It became apparent that it had been a ganglion cyst that went pop and not my pulley. I was still a bit hurt, as this was still traumatic to the tendon but at least I could climb.
By July it was feeling pretty good, I did a new 7c+ at Dulas and started working a harder one that I'd bolted in February. Pete Robins was waiting for the Diamond so he started coming and set about working Raiders, 8b+. I was a bit worried he was going to piss it as he has most of my routes but in the end it took him 7 sessions, only a few less than me on the FA. I finally worked out my bouldery project and got lucky one go. Dick Dastardly seemed Font 7c+ but it is very short so 8a+/b seemed appropriate.
Pete on the 2nd ascent of Raiders:
Yankee Doodle Pigeon and Dick Dastardly:
I'd done my two projects and my finger had done some hard boning so I got back on the big one. I soon got the big link I'd hurt myself trying. The start of the crux section where it leaves Last Crusade to the end. It was 13 steep moves to get to this point, i had no idea what the hard moves would be like from the start but it was time to start redpointing. Pete had bolted a project coming out of Wirral Whip so I could still rely on him for a belay. On my 2nd session I got the roll over to the sloper and was slapping out to the good pocket on the crux. Little did I know what a twat this move was going to turn out to be...
My work had dried up so i had to take a job in Guernsey, a lovely little number for most people but a bit frustrating for a man who's just started redpointing. Luckily i managed to do some nice bouldering and training while i was away but it meant 3 weeks off the route. Through the end of August into September I felt closer and closer to the crux but didn't stick it. It's move 19 on the route so it's quite far in and the type of move made it a nightmare on the link. My feet were over to the right on a smeary vertical bit and my hands right next to each other. In a really quick timing move your left hand slaps way out left to the pocket. It's timing, body positioning and execution. When I got there on redpoint I have a split second to execute and if I didn't do it right I was off. Yep my project had stopper move and I could get there feeling fresh and strong and still drop it. This is a mentally hard style for a route.
The breakthrough came on redpoint sesh 12, now October. I finally stuck the crux, my left foot came off and I lost my sequence and fell off but I was screaming with joy. In the back of my mind though i had a sneaky suspicion that just because I'd done it once it didn't mean it would become a regular occurrence. I did actually manage it again on my next sesh but for the next few weeks went backwards physically and mentally. All of a sudden I was nowhere near the move and even the set up move was feeling hard. I don't think you've truly redpointed until you've gone backwards on something and experienced the mental turmoil that comes with spending so many days falling off one move. It really is hard, it's widely known that redpointing at your limit is the hardest gig in climbing. After ten days when all the excitement has gone and it's become a slog, that's when you really have to dig deep. I played around on the beta, desperate to make it feel easier again. Throughout the year I'd used Parisellas to train for it with it being similar in style. I upped the ante of my training and even replicated the crux on the board. I trained more days on and took 2 rest days after. Just over week ago i stuck the crux again, this time getting a few foot moves further. The next moves are tensiony on shit feet as you climb into the kneebar. It turns out they felt horrendous from the start when your core was sapped. I was happy though and felt like i had cracked the training formula. This is when real life reared it's head again and with the prospect of working away til Christmas and with the weather turning I decided to take my draws out for the year.
Although disappointing i have to remember that at the start of the year i didn't even have a doable sequence on the crux and I managed to stick the move 3 times from the start (out of probably 70 attempts!). I got the thing dialled, learned how to train for the crux and that I needed more tension for the next moves. It's a bit dismaying to think there's 11 more moves from the kneebar to the end but they are a lot higher percentage, easier resistance climbing which suits me. For next year I need burl to stick the crux, tension to get into the kneebar then meaty power endurance to get to the ledge. I know it's pretty hard so I can't be too disappointed. It's 8A to stick the crux and get to the kneebar and then you have to do the 2nd half of Temple. On a good day i could do Pilgrim or In Heaven (the hard way) in the Cave yet only made it half way along the Dulas proj. My only concern is that I may have to deal with wet holds in the first half of next year. The crux hold gets a bit damp, it's a shame I had a dip in October when it was dry and mint and I had time.
And to the callous, thieving little twat who nicked my draws, I hope your head falls off.
Footage of my best go, on my last session:
Pete's project which became Turbo Terrific 8b, should be popular this:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Doylo - random Q. What Font grade for Masterplan? Gonna be down there next wk Cave style with the missus. Might sneak in a rope.
Sorry Tom just seen this. About 7B at about 18 metres but not hard to get there. And another tricky vertical bit after. Maybe next year eh :-\
-
Nice to catch up on what's going on other side of the tunnel. Always enjoyed your writing so guess I'll have to look forward to 2016..
-
Sieging is a noble art, and the hardest test for every climber fool enough to accept such a challenge.
And I'm not talking about the odd few months long siege, or even seasonal ones, I'm talking specifically about pluri-seasonal sieges, ones that go on for years on end with no other chance of success than keep sticking at it.
I thought I'd seen it all with projects that I've been trying for 3/4 years with thousands of kms driven, but still I didn't know what true sieging was until I built my own board.
On rock, conditions are less reliable and there is always some kind of plan, in terms of training for the project, timing for the good weather windows, and the likes. There are always more variables that make the game a bit less like trench warfare. You can get some distraction. You can climb with friends and hopefully outperform yourself due to positive vibes and ego.
On a home board, a siege is even harder than on real rock. The project is always there, it's always dry, and you can compensate for bad conditions with fans, dehumidifiers and the likes. You have all the comforts you need, coffee, tv, music, food, bathroom, everything. Still, it's harder. There are less excuses and any project is an omnipresent issue in your life and mind. After you've stacked every odd in your favour, it's just up to you to be at the level with the problem. No excuses.
You set it and you set the rules. You can't use tricks because it's meant to be that way and no matter what, you'll stick to the rules. Plus, you can try it for as long as you want, everyday and night, for ages, with no need for driving, fuel, weather checking. And you get sucked in.
Everything is always as it was on the last session, and as it will be on the next one. Every hold and every foothold and every movement will always feel the same, unless you get stronger. And that's the only thing you can do. You can't revel in your companions' happiness and you can't draw energy from the environment, from the beauty of the surroundings.
You have to go there after the warm up, that's been the same warm up of the last five years, and start trying. Every small improvement opens the doors for a much desired freedom in the form of a success, and every drawback puts you back into your cell. You can't blame anyone else and anything else but you.
It's just you and your demon. Which are the same thing.
-
I love nibile's writing too, :-* however, is it just me, or does it work even better if you imagine it in Lego Batman's voice. Leons face. Lego Batman's voice. :tumble:
-
Yes, I am sleep deprived
-
;D ;D
Still on the matter of sieging, yesterday I managed a project that I'd been trying on and off for two years. It took me three weeks, three or four sessions a week, trying just that thing. Had it been on rock, considering that I can climb one day a week if I'm lucky, it would have meant spending the whole season on it and probably not doing it.
Take home message: never leave the board.
-
;D ;D
Take home message: never leave the board til Spring , then come out and crush your project
-
;D ;D ;)
-
Megos (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2016/06/megos.html)
15 June 2016, 8:07 pm
Back in 2008(?) Liam 'Leeroy' Desroy almost completed a riduclously hard piece of climbing in the UK's temple of link ups Parisella's Cave. The Cave has obvious potentially for such ridiculously sustained bits of climbing but most the beasts of the UK probably aren't good enough and they definitely don't care enough to put the time into doing any of them. Leeroy fell off the last moves of the In Hell/Clyde link up before he became perennially injured and lost interest. This would have been the hardest problem of it's type in the UK linking a tough endurance 8A+ into a short stopper 8A+. Leeroy was definitely ahead of his time there and it's a terrible shame he didn't finish it. Fast forward to 2016 and a fortunate bit of bad weather forced the blonde German global wad that is Alex Megos into Parisella's for two days in a row. Alex's performances have appeared to suggest he is right at the top of the tree certainly in sport climbing. First guy to onsight 9a, Biographie in 3 goes (!!!) and Action Directe in 2 hours. I had to see him in the Cave so i headed over Friday evening. By the time i got there he'd already done Malc's Start in the Pass and Directors Cut in the Cave. He then did the second ascent of East Coker in a few goes before finishing with Louis Armstrong (in a few goes). This was different to other wads I'd seen in there over the years. Usually even proper beasts haven't totally destroyed the place on their first session as there is a lot to learn and a lot of tricky beta. The difference with Alex was that these were not hard problems for him, it didn't matter if he hadn't found the tricks or the most efficient beta as he was well within his comfort zone on these tricky 8Bs. I did a little rain dance that night and luckily he was forced back into there the next day. What could a man with that much strength and fitness do to a place like that. He racked his brain and decided linking Louis Armstrong into Halfway House would be suitable challenge for the day and of course he did it with minimal drama. This is what the top level looks like now folks, all the strong people (some of them world class) I'd seen climb over the years seemed somewhat behind the pace compared to the level Alex was demonstrating. Anyway if he makes it back one day Louis Cut could do with a sit start. The hardest option being the start to In Hell (hard 7C+). There's certainly plenty of potential 8B+ and 8Cs in there but they will probably never get done. What about In Hell/Louis A/Bonnie Extension, 8C+ anybody?. And Alex you are forgiven for jibing LPT, we'll put that down to youthful blip (and going down on a gop freezing day). You're welcome to marry my sister anyday.
Here he is on Louis Cut:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
Siege Pt 2 - The Holy Grail (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2016/09/siege-pt-2-holy-grail.html)
16 September 2016, 3:00 pm
After last years solitary blog post (http://doylosblog.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/siege.html) documenting a summer getting spanked on my roof project at Llanddulas I guess I should finish the story. The grand plans for a winter of specific training didn't quite materialise as I spent the whole time working away. I was going Kendal wall 2/3 times a week so i was getting the training in but didn't have much chance to set replicas etc.. On weekends I had a day in Parisella's trying to repeat In Heaven, Pilgrim and Halfway House. Ally put up a new route extension to Parisella's Original which I managed Trigger Cut and later Halfway House into. This was a good confidence boost and I headed to Dulas early April for the first sesh. I repeated my biggest link straight away which was a good sign. This was from move 13 but I knew this year I would have to try and do a bigger link to build confidence. Logically speaking it's good to do these big links on a redpoint project. However it sometimes feels hard to summon the psyche needed to make yourself try that hard when you're not actually going from the start. It's easy to just tell yourself you might aswell go from the start when your psyche might carry you through. Jerry was the king at doing these big links prior to redpointing and consequently he often did things with minimal redpoints. Not only are you building up strength, muscle memory and getting a feel for the last moves when you're tired but it also helps to keep the redpoint stress down. So I started trying it from the 3rd bolt 9 moves in. After a few sessions I stuck the crux a few times but fell getting into the kneebar. The breakthrough came with Mick Lovatt one day when I managed from the 3rd bolt right to the end. I also managed from slightly lower through the crux and almost into the kneebar. This was a really important sesh and I felt like I should definitely do it this year especially as I was still heavy after a winter of morale boosting garbage intake. It was time for redpoints, I was back at square one from the ground though. The stopper move still felt a mile off most goes, even the set up move before felt hard sometimes. After a few sessions of this I started to get sacked with it again. After my last redpoint one day I pulled back up to the crux and desperately searched for something, anything to make it more high percentage. In what seemed like a eureka moment I found a new bit of beta that made it easier to get the pocket (but with the other hand). The only problem was it made the next moves sorting yourself out a bit harder. The new beta was more complex but seemed higher percentage than the nightmare move. I spent a few more days trying it from the start and experimenting. Although I got the pocket a few times I never managed to bring my left hand in. Back in Parisella's i was still improving and surprised myself by getting up Director's Cut - a problem I never thought I'd do. Surely I could scrape my way up the roof now. The crunch session came in early July, I was having redpoints with the new beta but just didn't feel with it. The whole thing was a slog and I didn't want to be there. The new beta was more fuckin about and more tricky moves to fall off. I'd done the start so many times the thought of doing it again filled me with dread. I literally couldn't climb it well anymore and wasn't in the right headspace at all. After looking like it was going to happen earlier in the year I resigned myself to leaving it. I didn't know if I would try it again that year or if ever. I started bouldering about at different places, developed a crag x in the Clwyd with Danny and kept popping into Parisellas. I also started doing a bit more training, some max hangs and physically i started to feel better and better. I decided to optimistically try and link Director's into Almost Familiar as it was a stress free project and I could just clip into the rope if i got there. I just needed a stand by belayer. One day i managed to get up Director's again. I made a few moves into the route but came off totally boxed. This could happen if i could refine the beta a bit. I worked out that move then a few days later got through it again but fell on the big crossover on the lip. Once again I pulled back up and found a better way. Next time I got there I knew I'd have a good chance. Sure enough the new beta saw me get to the end a few days later. I'd just climbed a meaty new thing that I never would have thought was possible a few months earlier yet I felt strangely dissatisfied. In my mind I'd failed on the main goal and although this was a nice consolation prize I knew i had to get back to the Dulas for one last look. A few weeks later I made it up with Norm. Immediately it felt better, my mind was refreshed and confidence was high. First redpoint I greased off the crux but on the next I stuck the move. A few foot moves later I found myself in the kneebar for the very first time. It's always surreal when you get to a highpoint after trying something for so long. It can be quite hard to concentrate on the job in hand. It almost feels a bit out of body. As i fought to get my breathing down and shake my arms I just prayed that the end holds of Temple were dry. A few moves later I grabbed the draw as I didn't have enough strength to clip it. Desspite this I was over the moon, i knew it was possible. All summer I had thought back to that session when I did it from the 3rd bolt with the original beta. next go I got through all the hard climbing to the last few moves before the ledge. I was on decent holds but I had nothing left and came off (smacking my arse on the ledge at the bottom). Although elated with this session I was off away for 3 weeks in just over a week and it was due to get hot again. I came back two days later, the roof was in much better condition as it was colder and I knew I had to make the most of it. I didn't feel that great but first redpoint I found myself on those finishing moves again but this time I had strength to spare. After doing the last big finishing move up to the ledge I screamed like a banshee. This was the moment I had dreamed about. Stood on the ledge before cruising up Zoidberg one last time. I got my top out into the light (I can almost see my house from up there). Somehow I'd come through the hardest mental challenge of my climbing life. In the end it wasn't really the seige that won the day. The route had only succombed when I'd raised my level. In the end I'd somehow got stronger than the route. I did the route 4th redpoint after the two month break and had managed the 'stopper' move 3 times out of 4. I think there's a lesson in there somewhere kids! Thinking back to when I was 17 when I used to scour the 97 Rockfax looking for a new route to do I was now pretty happy with my tally. 27 new routes from 7c to 8c and 15 8's. Onto the next...
Final Cut:
The Holy Grail:
Source: Doylo's blog (http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/)
-
:dance1: :clap2:
-
:lets_do_it_wild: