[comPiler]

Best New Routes of the Year
19 December 2011, 2:58 pm

It's been perhaps the most frenzied year for new route activity on the North Wales Limestone for the best part of 20 years.  From show stopping high 8's to diddy 5's there's been a lot going on throughout the region.  The A55 guide has almost doubled in size, Lee Proctor and friends have been busy at Pantymywn and Ruthin and the Ormes have continued to provide routes as good as any in the UK.  There were 11 new grade 8's on the coast, i don't think this has ever happened before in a year!  Anyway here are my top ten, argue away at will, they're not in order of quality. couldn't be ringed with that! When i told Pete Robins and Pete Harrison i was doing the list i jokingly said 9 out of the 10 routes were my routes.  It is probably indicative of how vain and deluded people think i am as they actually believed me!

Megalopa,8c+, LPT, Neil Dyer

The most significant Welsh line of the year! This incredible route was a surprise to many who hadn't even spotted the potential for a direct finish to Walking Mussel up that gleaming white headwall.  Pete Robins and Neil bolted it together and tried it together.  Initial forays soon accelerated into full blown redpoints and a race to the top ensued that provided much excitement and entertainment for the regular LPT goers.  We hadn't seen a situation like this before (had Britain on anything near this hard??!), both climbers had a long way to go.  It was a case of placing your bets, popping on you 3D specs, pulling out a deck chair and watching the action.  Neil was the darhorse but despite him not having done the Walking Mussel he took the early advantage being more consistent on that middle crux sequence.  We thought he had it in him but did he?  Pete was the current king of the crag but was not up to full speed yet and he would have to get used to breathing in Dyer's Miura dust.  Dyer soon made it through the first crux on the headwall.  Pete had made it to the move but was in bulk and not close.  Everyone expected a quick conclusion but it wasn't to be as Dyer came up short on the next big move.  Weeks passed and Robins started to gather momentum.  How would Dyer cope with this new situation.  He wanted it, he felt he deserved it but would he get it!  The prospect of Robin's latching that first crux and then shooting to the top like a rat up a drainpipe was omnipresent.  He kept it chill, he continued not to warm up and one day in mid August he stuck that twatting move.  I watched with baited breath from the Over The Moon crack as he negotiated the finishing moves.  Nervously but solidly he topped out and shrieked: "Is it happening" (wait for the footage to hear this delightful quip).  A brilliant well deserved achievement and a fantastic route that will hopefully receive the attention it deserves.  To his credit Pete kept plugging away and a few weeks later got his topout to assure his place as an LPT great and becoming the first to tick the 8c+ trilogy.

Red Meat,7b,Craig Pen Gogarth,Pete Harrison

Pete Harrison must have racked up the most ab time yet again this year.  Exploring the Orme researching for the bolt fund guide helped him unearth a few plum lines.  The most significant of these was Red Meat on the leaning wall opposite 'Dave Lyon' crag.  This 30 metre line took much effort to bolt and clean and was pretty unique for the area.  The first 2/3 or so was relatively steady with pumpy climbing but some good rests.  This let to a sustained finishing crux sequence where decison making was of the essence as your forearms waned.  The route became a popular tick with many intrigued parties heading down for the new Orme pump experience.

The Madness Reigns,8a,Dyserth Waterfall, Chris Doyle

Probably the best new route on a excellent new sector.  Worthy of inclusion for the crux sequence along which features some pathetic grips.  Good fun.  The two 7c's are also excellent and the 8b will float some people's boats.

Pic: Ray Wood:

Release The Hounds,7c,Craigiau Gigfran,Gav Foster  

Finally Gav got round to climbing his project (hence the name)!  This curving overhanging prow above Penmaenmawr was one of the worst kept secrets in North Wales.  Gav realised the time had come and put a few sessions in in order to bag it.  The first half of the route is the prow feature.  It is climbed with compression and heels, you really feel like you're fighting to stop yourself slipping off the frictionless rock.  After the crux better holds and easier climbing are waiting and a nervy romp to the top via some excellent wall climbing.  Release the Hounds became an instant classic and propelled itself to near the top of the 7c quality list.  For me it was brilliant to do something unique for the area that wasn't just another overhanging piece of limestone.  

The Empire State,8a,The Diamond,Tommy Chamings

Diamond season really captured the imagination this year.  Pete Harrison and Neil Dyer were all over the massive walls in exploration mode.  There were ropes hanging everywhere.  More curious visitors landed on the beach and more quality routes went up.  One of the coolest lines was Tommy's project from 2009 which followed a yellow streak of rough grease free Diamond rock.  The first 2 bolts featured desperate bouldery climbing but from there the route was 8a and went right to the top of the crag.  It had jugs, shakeouts and runouts and was unlike most of the 8's in the area.  With this route and Pete Robin's excellent The Black Pearl just to the right it made sense to start them initially with aid starts from the jugs.  Why deny ourselves 25 metres of 3 star climbing for the sake of a boulder problem!  If it's good enough for Ceuse!  Anyway Tommy satched it up quicktime and Dyer did the deed on the flash.  Supersmashinggreat

Pic by Mark Reeves:

The Brute,8b,The Diamond,Neil Dyer

The Diamond super route of the year and right near the top of the best of it's grade in the country.  For me it isn't the amazing line, movement and rock that make this route so special-it's the style.  Bouldery routes are too short, stamina routes are too long.  Power endurance is the most interesting style for me and this route epitomises the best of it even though it is a lot of moves for PE.  From leaving the amazing juggy flake at the 2nd bolt it's a weaving, sustained, hold onto your hats sprint to the top with barely a chance to catch breath.  In 32 moves you only really stop once and it's not a good rest as the right hand is on a sloper.  You cling to the barrelled steepness trying to execute each move as well as possible to preserve strength.  Speed is important but not to the detriment of precision.  Basically it just flows like perfection and the difficulties are largely dispersed on amazing holds.  The climbing let's up a bit towards the chain but you need to keep crimping when the crimp is fading.  A 20 year old project; props to Steve Mayers for his early efforts and to Neil for making it a reality.  Jordan and Caff nipped in for repeats and seemed to agree with the hard 8b tag. Mega

The Last Crusade,8a+,Llanddulas Cave,Chris Doyle

Last year when i was redpointing on what would become Temple of Gloom i spent a lot of time staring at this line trying to imagine what you would pull on and how it climbed.  Unlike Temple it had never been inspected before.  Early this year i pestered Tony to lug his ladder up there and we got the thing bolted.  Sessions of hanging on the bolts trying to figure out shapes, positions and moves followed.  On both those roof routes i have been amazed how steady the sections have become after a bit of time playing around.  I soon had the sections wired enough to try some redpoints although it was a bit of a memory test on the complex sea of slopey sidepulls at the end.  Just as i was about to seal the deal i tore my oblique warming up on it resulting in a month out and severe pain when sneezing.  I was soon back in the groove and pulled out a memorable ascent with a near skipping bolts deck out scene.  If you like PE and you like roof climbing get on it!

Alberta Rose, 7c,Detritus Wall,Pete Harrison

Pete's little community project for the year was installing a handline across the top of Detritus Wall on the Little Orme to allow safe access to classic but neglected routes like Ocean of Emotion.  These routes were glorified in the guidebooks but the carrot was still a little untempting.  Pete's handline was a brilliant piece of craftsmanship and he regarded it as his biggest achievement in the area.  As word started to get out he knew he haqd to strike quick on what Dave Lyon had tipped him off as being 'the line of the Orme'.  He started working out the line to the right of Ocean on top rope and soon had it bolted and prepped for a redpoint.  With the seasons fitness slightly on the wane all was not a formality but he topped out quicktime much to his delight.  His belayer Calum Muskett got the 2nd ascent confirming the grade and quality.  The route is equal in quality to its neighbour Ocean.  When i checked the place out to get some footage i thought it was reminiscent of Ceuse's famous sector Demi Lune with Orange rock and amazing wall climbing.  Unfortunately the season ran out before the masses could descend but it should be high on everyones list having some of th e best routes of their grade in the UK.

Stff Upper Lip Extension,8b,Pigeons Cave,Pete Robins  

Pete brought George Smith's original vision of this line to its inevitable concluson by giving it the top out and a proper finish.  The original route is amazing but the but the finish was somewhat abitary and unsatisfactory.  Above an awkward clip off a man made slot was a superb boulder problem on amazing pinches and edges.  This gave access to the top of the crag and was the full line.  Pete found himself in a bit of a race for the FA with Lancashireman Jordan Buys.  Pete got there but Jordan was hot on his heels for the 2nd ascent.  SUPE is certainly one of the best 8b's in the area.  I would rank it in the top 3 with The Brute and Melanchollie. The jury's still out on whether the original is 7c+ or 8a (its 7c+).

Dumpster Divers,8a+,The Diamond,Neil Dyer

Another old project that many a beast must have gazed at in the Rockfax.  It wasn't going to hold out this year with man on a mission Neil Dyer on the warpath.  Worthy of inclusion for the crux alone which is a massive dyno.  This section of wall is not quite as awe inspiring as the meat to the right but it is still pretty damn impressive and like all the Diamond routes the climbing is sustained and amazing.  Pete got the 2nd ascent shortly afterwards. Roll on next year!

For those who have noticed that this list is a bit elitist well it is but there were some excellent 6's put up also.  Check out Chilly T 6c (Ty Newydd, Tony Shelmerdine), Vegas Nights 6c+ (The Tower,Dulas, Chris Doyle) and The Hunt 6c/+ (Craigiau Gigfran, Jon Ratcliffe)

Source: Doylo's blog

[petejh]

 

Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!

One small typo - alberta rose is to the left of ocean of emotion, not the right. Just in case someone goes to check it out during this heatwave we're experiencing.

[Doylo]

I knew that, i'm normally ok with left and right   

[Wood FT]

Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!

seconded, just great to read. What are your plans with the footage?

[Red]

Best New Routes of the Year
19 December 2011, 2:58 pm
He kept it chill, he continued not to warm up and one day in mid August he stuck that twatting move.  I watched with baited breath from the Over The Moon crack as he negotiated the finishing moves.  Nervously but solidly he topped out and shrieked: "Is it happening" (wait for the footage to hear this delightful quip). 

   great stuff

[petejh]

Best New Routes of the Year
19 December 2011, 2:58 pm
He kept it chill, he continued not to warm up and one day in mid August he stuck that twatting move.

That should go in the guidebook for posterity.  Haha well done Neil.

[Doylo]

Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!

seconded, just great to read. What are your plans with the footage?

I have a film in the pipeline about the new routes scene. Need to get more footage though and have been a bit lazy. Feeling insecure how every film now is super slick high def pro efforts and i'm still shaky, leg in shot, crappy software and kit! I'll get it done though

[dontfollowme]

The majority of the recent films lack humour though - unlike West Coast Gimps

[Wood FT]

Superbly-written post Chris, especially the part about the race for Megalopa, you should send that to the mags - it'll bring back some great memories in years to come for the protagonists!

seconded, just great to read. What are your plans with the footage?

I have a film in the pipeline about the new routes scene. Need to get more footage though and have been a bit lazy. Feeling insecure how every film now is super slick high def pro efforts and i'm still shaky, leg in shot, crappy software and kit! I'll get it done though

 nice one, get it done  to be fair I don't even notice the quality difference when going from slick productions to the likes of consumed/shock of the new et al because the content is so relevant to me and my climbing. I would watch a feature length mobile phone video if it was of relatively local problems/routes that I've seen or I hope to do one day

that said life and hold appears to tick both the quality and content boxes, as does largers vids on the web.

[comPiler]

Xmas Bouldering
29 December 2011, 10:10 am

The weather has been pretty terrible in these parts. You make big plans to boulder all winter but of course it rains all winter! So it's a case of grabbing those nice days and getting out when you can.  Myself and Pete Harrison went on probably the most optimistic mission ever on Boxing Day as we drove through the wet hills to check out the new Craig-y-Lyn boulders.  The left hand side of the face was wet but we managed to dry the holds so we could dispatch Voie Normale.  This is a really cool powerful 7a+:

I got close on Abnormale which is a 7b+ variant but had to stop due to skin:

It is very similar in style and grade to Jack Daniels Connection on the box.  I guess that probably is 7b+ after all.  It was quite shocking how my skin was peeling off on both problems.  I guess that's what you get for climbing outdoors twice in 6 weeks.  The next day i hit Tremeirchion with a crew (Mr P, Pete R, Pete H and Owen).  Everyone was suitably impressed and got stuck in.  Pete R ticked 36 Chambers and got close on 22 Chambers (7c to the right):

This has a tricky finish using a shit pocket with an annoying twig in it and the low moves are really powerful.  Probably a hard 7c which Pete didn't have enough steam to complete.  Both really classic 7c's.  Mr P did a traverse of the top wall at about 7a which was pretty cool:

Yesterday Danny C took me out to check out a sweet little project he's found.  It is indeed pretty classic and there's another one to the left.  Surely it's time for a comeback DC!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Here we go again!
6 January 2012, 11:33 am



And it was going so well! I was really getting into the training groove until the sickness came.  3 weeks later and i'm still not back on it.  I've been getting out a bit with the old conflict still ever present.  I know i need to get indoors campussing, deadhanging and doing steep bouldering but i just love climbing outside so much i struggle with discipline.  It's a simple choice, meander along at the same level on the routes again this year or put some hard work in now and hopefully climb a bit harder come summer.  Ramon says to get really strong you need to climb indoors.  I'm inclined to agree with him.  I know plenty of people who climb amazingly without training but are they really fulfilling their potential?  They're happy so it doesn't matter but you need to train to get the best out of yourself in any sport.  Imagine if Neil Dyer went over to Spain and spent a winter with the beast coaches over there.  It's a scary thought.  His training for next year consists of 'not actually going climbing ever'.  But you know he'll be awesome again next year!  Well i know i need to get to work.  I went to Porth Ysgo yesterday with Mr P, baby Dave and big Tim.  I forget what an amazing place it is as i tend to go once every few years.  It is the best bouldering crag in Wales without doubt and such a pretty place to boot.  It is a sign of a good crag when the warm ups are just as good as the harder problems.  Dave bagged a few FAs, the crag that keeps on giving.  One of my objectives for the day was Truth, a cool little 7b arete that i'd never done:

I got to within millimetres of the ledge quite quickly and then proceeded to go backwards on it to the point of surrender.  I let the holds cool down and had one more go and did it much to my relief.  We then played around on Anaconda which is a stellar 7c:

Mr P on the slightly flawed Higginson Scar RH 7a:

I had a quick look at Dolly Rocker which is a very cool little arete which goes at 8a or thereabouts.  One to go back for if i'm ever going well.

Some development has been going on at a limestone crag x.  It's a good addition and i'm quite inspired by a big traverse.  Quite miss sideways shuffling it's been a while.  10 out of my 12 hardest problems are shuffles, will be good to get involved again.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Mint Mountains
17 January 2012, 5:20 pm

After the ysgo i had to go to Sheff for 5 days to take care of some business.  I don't really like the standard climbing wall scene.  I only want to go inside to increase my basic strength and most walls are more interested in fun climbing and proper training facilities are often a bit shite despite the massive space at their disposal.  This is fine but i'm not bothered about training my technique on plastic.  I thought the best bet was the Foundry, last time i had tried to climb on the Works Beastmaker board.  This has very nice handholds but i didn't like the foothold situation i.e they were too small and not enough of them.  Mawson told me that they'd stuck some more on so i thought i'd give it another go.  A few people have told me they find it hard to train properly at the Works because they generally know so many people in there and so end up making small talk and trying not to be rude.  I know what they mean now! It was good chatting to folk i hadn't seen for ages but it is quite time consuming.  Anyway the footholds made all the difference to the board and although the range of stuff you can do on there is still a bit limited it is a good board and undoubtedly awesome for finger strength and body tension.  

Back in Wales we have finally had some proper winter bouldering weather.  Driving down to Nant Gwynant i was feeling pretty inspired.  Beautifully lit valleys, frost on the ground, no wind,lots of sun and just about t shirt temps.  Wish it was like this more often! I took Gorgy down to Craig y Lyn.  He had a do on Voie Normale and i finished off Abnormale 7b+.  Last time thin skin had stopped me and this time it was fine after a few goes figuring out the technique for the jump.  One helluva move!  We then went to the Bustach via some shit parking beta from me.  Muddy fields, wading through freezing river and stuck car once again.  I wanted to try Sick Happy sds but it was wet so just did the 7a stand again (great problem!).  The sitter seems very butch, i'm not sure its my bag really.  Back in Gorgy's garage tonight.  Last time i was there i said 'i think  i'm coming down with something'.  Two weeks of hell ensued.  The priority now is finger strength, this is massively important for hard sport climbing in Britain so i need to get cracking.  Would love to get close to my old crimping abilities when i was a youth.  Wood and deadhangs barring any global disasters.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ruthin Escarpment
19 January 2012, 5:09 pm

Last winter when we were developing Dyserth etc..Clwyd guru and tallest man in North Wales Lee Proctor was giving Ruthin escarpment a makeover.  He sent me some pics of a new buttress where he'd done some short routes and which he reckoned might have some bouldering potential.  I popped up in early summer with Spidey and we did some of the routes.  We did a immaculate little 7a up there and i failed on the 7b (punt).  I was keen for the bouldering but wasn't in bouldering mode so i decided to save it for winter.  Owen Mcshane and friends beat me to it and did some cool stuff.  I finally made it up recently and it turned out to be really good.   I went back the next day with a possee and soon the place was nicely developed.  Even local Danny C came out and bagged the problem of the crag which took a stand up line with a highball top out (Another Million).  I was keen for the big traverse and managed to bag the first section to an obvious jug.  This was dead cool and i called it One in a Million and graded it 7b (turns out my illness had cocked up my gradeometer and 7a+ was right for it).  The other week Jamie Skates bagged the last bolted line on the crag (Sting Like a Bee 7c).  Lee has also rebolted the two main routes section of the crag and there is a new buttress beyond Butterfly Butress with some 6's.  You can find the routes on the UKC database.  Topo

Lee on his own problem/route Fritillary Flake Fb6a+, F6c:

Military operation coordinated by Gav:

Gav on what was to become Another Million 7b:

Mr P on what was to become One in a Million 7a+:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Orme Bouldering Bits
21 January 2012, 11:01 am

Pete Robins has done a couple of new problems on the top of the Orme recently. First up was a coolF8a traverse on the lower grade sunny walls over on West Shore side above the road. Pete also ticked off an old project on a little area that Mr P and friends had visited a few years ago.  The Bottom Billion climbs out from a break through a small roof and up to another break via some sharp crimps.  I went and did it yesterday and it is cool if a little sharp on soft skin.  Anything with a edge that you have to bone is going through my tip at the moment.  To the left is a equually good problem if not a little nicer.  This was put up by Jon Ratcliffe back in the day with Mr P.  It uses a nice sidepull pinch and some rough crozzly slopes and felt about 6c+ to me.  All in all some nice new additions! Can't wait for the guide.  The committee has been overseesing the graded lists for each area and there is indeed a lot of stuff these days.  And lots and lots of hard problems.  It should be colossal!

Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

I Hate Sharp Jugs
24 January 2012, 11:14 am

I fuckin hate sharp jugs, a jug never needs to be sharp.  My fingers are in bits after the last few days climbing:

Spurred on by this news report i trekked back up to the George's crack hillside in Ogwen.  We went up to Lily Savage area, i was keen to look upon it with fresh eyes.  Just underneath LS is Paul O Grady, a stunning arete bizzarely overlooked by locals.  It took Ben Farley and Mick Adams to do the Stand up and Sit Start a couple of years ago.  It was really gusty and pretty cold.  Mr P walked up but coulnd't take the pace and bailed straight away (i hear you feel the cold more in old age).  I did the stand which is 6c+, it felt amazing, lovely holds and great body positions.  I worked the sitter (7b) and eventually figured out a sequence and dispatched it.  It's the best 7b i've done in Wales and has all the ingredients of a classic problem in my eyes.  Gorgeous holds, great line and importantly there is nothing nasty about it.  When i got home i thought about the best 7b's in Wales and came to the conclusion that it is a fairly weak grade for top draw quality.  I would certainly rank Paul O Grady at the top.  I then started working Lily Savage.  This is regarded as a classic 7b of Wales and certainly the line and moves to justify it.  Unfortunately the first slopey ledge has a razor sharp edge which took chunks off my hands slapping for it and later cut my leg heel hooking on it.  This puts a dampner on it for me, i fell off the end and didn't have time for another go.

Source: Doylo's blog

[ShortRound]

I Hate Sharp Jugs
24 January 2012, 11:14 am

I then started working Lily Savage. 

Source: Doylo's blog

Brilliant.

[comPiler]

Dismay in the Hills
1 February 2012, 9:17 pm



The last few days climbing outside before today were hard going.  I struggled on everything i tried and started to feel a bit flat.  First up was another spanking on Weirdo 7c on the Little Orme.  I finally found a sequence for the stand up moves but then the foothold fell off and that was that. On Saturday me and Dan K headed to Tan-y-Grisiau to meet up with Mr P, Spidey and Dyer and Robins.  We messed about on New Noise for a bit checking out the new sequence.  I knew there was a new hold but didn't realise that it was such a different sequence.  It's 7c+ with the pinch out right apparently.  Floppy's undercut method is desperate to be fair and even Dan struggled to get off the ground.  It's impressive that Chris managed to lap it for Welsh Connections.  Then we went down to Flick of the Wrist 7c which i was hoping i might be able to do now. Pete and Neil had both dropped the top and weirdly they both continued to do so and didn't manage it.  The crux is off a wide pinch, this is my weakest grip and i soon realised i was just not strong on the hold and it was game over.  Dissapointing but Neil and Pete made me feel a bit better by failing with me.  Dan got it in a couple of goes, he like the 2D!  On the way back we stopped at Rhiw Goch and tried Nazguls Traverse which is an extremely powerful 7c.  Dan pissed it again and it was the usual story for me although i did do it from the crux to the end.  As one load of Sheffielders left my flat a few more arrived in the shape of Bob Hickish and Chris Lockyer.  We headed straight for the Pass and hiked up to Lizard King.  It was bitterly bitterly cold.  Luckily there was only a slight breeze, any more would have made it too cold to climb.  After warming up on the technical Peter's Crack 6c+ me and Bob went to work on LK.  I was keen to try the 7c version which uses the slopey arete to the left to finish.  Bob did the moves with a massive span, he makes me feel short that guy!

I couldn't do it and the original method off the pinch seemed more feasible.  Must go back when it's a bit warmer.  I've also got a couple of projects that i've found in the hills which i'm really keen for but they're a bit beyond me at the moment.  One is very steep and requires undercut power.  I drove straight to Gorgys and he got me doing some bicep work so hopefully i'll see the benefits soon.  After 3 days of failures i needed a boost.  Today i headed up to Craftnant with Bob and Chris.  I had a great day here before Xmas and today it was just magical up there.  The rock was totally prime and it was sunny and crisp.  I had been excited to try Special K since hearing of the English raiders raving about it last year.  I wanted to save it for Winter so i would have something exciting to try.  Myself and Bob worked it out pretty sharpish and he dispatched.  After a bit more tweaking i followed suit and sat on top buzzing about what an amazing problem it is and how i love that style.  It has amazing holds (especially the flat rail), the line is very cool and the moves are excellent.  It wouldn't be out of place in Switzerland.  I can't for the life of me comprehend how this problem is two grades harder than Wonderwall though, personally i think it's the other way round.  Wonderwall has such smaller holds and harder moves.  Special K is my perfect style though, Nodder's most stellar FA i'd say!  It is surely one of the most classic single boulders in Wales. Wonderwall Arete 6c+, Wonderwall, Riley's Arete (we warmed up on this, brilliant) 7a, My Own Private Idaho 8b, Cruella 7b/+ and Special K, mega!  

Rileys Arete:

Chris ticked Cruella then Hickish pulled out an ascent of his cousins problem Grasswind as the light faded.  I find it so much easier to perform well on days like this.  You walk up to the crag feeling inspired and it stays with you for the day.

Special K:  



Source: Doylo's blog

[Fiend]

Inspiring read Doylo, sounds like some cool locations and problems.

[Doylo]

yes not half bad!

[comPiler]

Ruthin Footage
5 February 2012, 3:52 pm



Source: Doylo's blog

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More Hills
9 February 2012, 11:00 am



We've had some more fantastic weather and more teams have been descending on the hills.  It's been a great scene with everyone motivated and keen to take advantage of the amazing conditions.  NWB.com has been in overload, i can't remember so much frenzied activity on it for years.  I've been reminded of how much good stuff there is, there are so many smaller areas.  You can hit a couple of venues up in a day targeting specific problems.  Everywhere you go the rock is different and there are problems of all styles to go at.  I haven't trained for weeks, i'm just so motivated to get outside and plus i have been feeling my elbow affliction from the end of last year rearing it's ugly head.  Getting it once was pretty bad but to feel it coming back after a significant period of time is very worrying.  My sister is a physio which is very handy so hopefully i'll get a diagnosis when i see her and then i will know how to combat it. I've been doing loads of mid grade problems in the last week, many of which i've done before yonks ago.  It's definitely more fun than seiging one problem but then we all get drawn back to the stuff at our limit eventually.  I went down the ultimate marmite crag Angel Bay for a few hours and did a stellar problem on lush slopes called Spectrum.  It gets 7a+ but i wouldn't argue with 7b.  I can confirm Manchester Dogs is finished, the start is completely smashed in.  On the subject of problems changing the lower hold on Bus Stop in the Pass has got bigger making Bus Stop 7b and Mr Fantastic soft 8a.  It still won't help me as i struggle with the shoulder moves and the high foot.  I had a day of low psyche in the Pass (it's so dark and cold there) so Mr P rescued me and we went back to Clogwyn y Bustach.  Still a bit wet but i made progress on Sick Happy sit, should go when it's dry.  Yesterday i went to Rhiw Goch with Jimmy Big Guns, Mr P and Emma Twyford (who is now resident in Llanberis).  We warmed up on a couple of nice lines on the main crag and then hit the 50 degree steepness.

Mr P on a 5+ start to a route:

I love this place, it's like a board but outside.  Jim and Emma cleaned up the crag classic Moria (soft 7b prob) and i did White Rider, Ride the Wild Smurf and also repeated Moria.

Emma on Moria:

Floppy's 8a+ dyno is an amazing move and could really do with a repeat (come on beasts). I got close to my nemesis Nazgul's Traverse but we had to leave to walk up that horrible hill to the Mallory Boulder where we met Nodder.  God i hate that walk, i forgot how shit it is.  Dave was trying Will, the grade is still up in the air for this one but it seems very hard for 7c+ to me.  I think it's only been done by Huffy, Ned and Mason and they're all monsters.  It's a superb problem with a nails first move.  I repeated Barking Direct and the Crack and we tried Cosmic Wheels 7c.  This is a Nodder classic that I did in 2004 with Huffy, i managed the moves again but fingers were giving up.

Cosmic Wheels:

Will into the Crack is still and unclimbed link which will definitely be 8a.  I'm sore today but buzzing off all the great days out.  I'm a self employed subcontactor which means i have to be pro active in finding work.  Sunny days are not condusive to this however but i can't keep on driving into the hills every day.  Got to be responsible occasionally!

Pisshead:

The next front cover of the bouldering guide:

Mark Reeves film Amateur Hardcore is really good for getting beta and its great to see Robins when he was fat sketching on a 7b.

from mark reeves on Vimeo.

Nodder has produced a list of the 8b's on the Orme on his blog.  There is also a list of the hardest problems in the hills. Check it here



Source: Doylo's blog

[Richie Crouch]

I am well jealous of all this pristine conditions rock scaling going on in the hills! Nice photos Chris. Nodder's post has got me massively psyched for the cave again though 

[Doylo]

Get a life Crouchy, theres so many cool problems you havent done. But i guess theres nothing like climbing into Rockatrocity.... 

[Nibile]

Get a life Crouchy, theres so many cool problems you havent done. But i guess theres nothing like climbing into Rockatrocity.... 

mothafucka Doylo!!!
 
I can totally identify with the Crouch here.

[comPiler]

Louis Armstrong for Robins
12 February 2012, 6:42 pm

Pete Robins did his fourth 8b in Parisellas Cave yesterday.  Louis Armstrong is known as the bloc testpiece of the Cave despite the fact that it is still 12 or so moves long.  It is certainly a sought after testpiece.  This surely makes Pete the indisputed King of the Cave, he just needs to repeat Pilgrimage now to seal the deal.  The FA for those who haven't seen it:

I ticked an old nemesis of mine known as Nazguls Traverse, quite a butch 7c.  I also made progress on a project line at same crag which should hopefully go down.  I think i can do it anyway.  Today me, Mr P and Gav went to Pantymywn in search of dry rock but it was all gopped out with the temperature increase so we headed to Ruthin where Lee and co were getting stuck in.  Most of it was pretty dry so we got cracking.  Lee managed to repeat Sting Like a Bee (new 7c route) which he'd had a few sessions on.  I managed to flash it for my first route of the year and my first 7c flash in Britain.  It's essentially roped bouldering but pretty cool.  I finished off the 7b to the left which is also very good, i had failed on it during a shit spell last year.  5 days off to grow some much needed skin now!

I was pretty dismayed to find someone hasd stolen the pad i stashed at Butterfly Buttress.  I hope the cunt falls off and misses it and smashes their skull to pieces.

Source: Doylo's blog