21

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 01:51:44 pm »

If anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go.

I used to think that, but I was using power more than I thought. Since passing 40 my technique genuinely seems to be still improving, but my power is waning distressingly fast, as evidenced by problems like Brad Pit slipping from my repertoire. Sad times.

I do remember a series of training articles in OTE in the mid-nineties, in which the jist was that by the secret to all climbing was getting stronger. Not only would the moves get easier, you'd also gain stamina as who gets pumped on easy moves? At the time I assumed 'stronger' was a synonym for 'better', but in hindsight I realised they just meant stronger.

Since the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale was invented last week, I was referring the decades-old established scale

   

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 12:03:16 pm »

Is that E6 6b on the "West Side Story is E4" grading scale or the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale

Since the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale was invented last week, I was referring the decades-old established scale, which conveniently allows comparison across climbs of a similar type: a bit harder than White Wand, not as hard as Ulysses.

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Wellsy on Today at 11:55:16 am »

Is that E6 6b on the "West Side Story is E4" grading scale or the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 11:43:57 am »

This sounds like a myth perpetuated by strong folk who have had a hard time on slabs with supposedly moderate grades.

In their defence, I have a hard time differentiating the difficulty of most Font slabs. Forêt Noire (7A+) feels as hard to me as Super Prestat (7B+).

Some problems in Font do seem have a bit of danger money attached to the grade, but it's not entirely clear how much, and doesn't seem to apply to old school terrifiers like Le Pilier Légendaire at Éléphant, which is E5 6b but was 6C back in the day.

25

equipment / Re: Semi-static / LSK recommendations

« Last post by mrjonathanr on Today at 11:43:20 am »

Cheers JB, thanks for your input.

The ab at the left side of the main cliff near Heroin was 90m I thought? I've only done it on someone else's kit so may be wrong?

26

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: 180k cragx Mill Bridge

« Last post by Dingdong on Today at 11:37:55 am »

Water companies, whether privatised or not, will have the same income streams

I think your example of Tideway is the exception rather than the rule. And in that scenario the government isn't actually borrowing the money, it's backing it. Governments can borrow at lower rates but will they borrow, or rather, will they enact the legislation in the first place that means they will have to borrow. (2022 estimate for delivering the storm overflows bit of the Environment Act is £178bn, so add some inflation onto that. Source: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/624460a18fa8f527744f0655/storm-overflows-evidence-project-march-2022-addendum.pdf).

I'm not really arguing for or against privatisation, but I wish that people wouldn't talk about nationalisation like it's some silver bullet that will fix everything they don't like about the water environment. I'd love people to have clear ideas of what their aspirations for watercourses are, to know what it would take to get there, and to be cognisant of the challenges and implications (delivering the Environment Act is going to release A LOT of carbon. A LOT.) of getting there. I think the press have let the public down badly on this front. Just my opinion.

Like you say, that's your opinion. Public utilities should all be state owned to remove any semblance of profiteering first of all. You also state that the money will come from the public purse but that's already what's happening anyways as the water companies operate from profit they make from us, the public. The only difference would be that instead of shareholders pocketing 70m every year that extra money could go towards offsetting or capturing that extra carbon from delivering the Environment Act.

Also if the press were doing that piss poor of a job communicating issues then surely you guys as private entities could sue newspapers for libel. Except the issue is that you can't because no lies have been told, we can see that from the fact that you're getting fined millions.

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Wellsy on Today at 11:34:13 am »

I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.

Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with.

Again, it's out there, i dunno how common a view it is. But I don't think there's much point carrying on the discussion tbh as its not like anyone here is it disagreement on it

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Dingdong on Today at 11:30:25 am »

If anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go.

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by teestub on Today at 11:28:10 am »

I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.

Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with. 

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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Wellsy on Today at 11:23:08 am »

Should have just pulled on and campused to that good edge I suppose