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1
news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 03:45:18 pm »
when we are actually stood beneath a crag we take in a range of visual clues that help us make sense of a combination of letters and numbers on the page: does the rock look solid; does it look compact and hard to protect; how tall is the cliff; how steep; are the lines obvious or hard to read, etc. etc.

Not an approach recommended after abseiling into a seacliff though, unless there is an easy escape route, or your jumar / runaway game is good.
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shootin' the shit / Re: only joking
« Last post by Catcheemonkey on Today at 03:20:14 pm »
Do you think transparent coffins will catch on?

Remains to be seen.
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 02:21:41 pm »
This is also all rather abstract when we actually use grades in context. Even if we simply have a picture with a line drawn on it and no description, when we are actually stood beneath a crag we take in a range of visual clues that help us make sense of a combination of letters and numbers on the page: does the rock look solid; does it look compact and hard to protect; how tall is the cliff; how steep; are the lines obvious or hard to read, etc. etc. Of course, having a guide book description adds even more information.

Ah, well that's all good as long as you are using grades for their primary purpose: to give information on difficulty to the aspirant ascentionist.

The problem comes when using grades to compare dissimilar routes in order to benchmark achievements, for example to compile a graded list where Century Crack is in some way comparable to Equilibrium. Leading to the reductio ad absurdum that WSS is harder than Right Wall because it takes most people a few more goes. Because E-grades consider the extra dimensions of risk and consequence inherent to trad, they can only be comparative within a genre – 'safe-but-sustained', 'bold-and-technical' to quote the Grit List from 25 years ago.

As for the H-grades idea, in my limited experience the E grades for harder climbs are indeed given for a hypothetical ascent without pre-inspection. That’s the only way a route such as Meshuga could merit E9: it’s straightforward if you have top-roped it, but working it all out going from the ground would be pretty exciting. At least comparable to onsighting Indian Face or Hubble ;)
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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 01:42:49 pm »
Probably didn't.
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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by sherlock on Today at 01:42:13 pm »
Wonder how long she rested between ascents?
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shootin' the shit / Re: only joking
« Last post by Bradders on Today at 01:37:00 pm »
Someone tried to sell me a coffin yesterday.

I said that's the last thing I need.
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shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 01:32:04 pm »
We just got a megane 1.6 diesel and I guessed dit had never been done, so asked the garage to do it. They seemed a bit surprised...
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shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 01:03:37 pm »
If you are planning on keeping it a while, worth doing gearbox oil at that age too. Manufacturers don't put gearbox oil in their service schedule, but it really isn't a "life long" fluid, unless you want the car life to equal the gearbox life...
Mine's supposed to have a gearbox oil change every ~38k miles, according to manufacturer's schedule!
9
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by nik at work on Today at 12:14:55 pm »
Very casual…
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shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!
« Last post by Paul B on Today at 12:09:56 pm »
Didn't Reeve have an 'exciting' motorway incident many years ago due to a wheel bearing?
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