21

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy popp on Yesterday at 06:34:07 pm »

This is also all rather abstract when we actually use grades in context. Even if we simply have a picture with a line drawn on it and no description, when we are actually stood beneath a crag we take in a range of visual clues that help us make sense of a combination of letters and numbers on the page: does the rock look solid; does it look compact and hard to protect; how tall is the cliff; how steep; are the lines obvious or hard to read, etc. etc. Of course, having a guide book description adds even more information.

Ah, well that's all good as long as you are using grades for their primary purpose: to give information on difficulty to the aspirant ascentionist.

Silly me!

22

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by SA Chris on Yesterday at 06:33:16 pm »

First person to climb V15 twice in a day (half day?).

Scratch that, actually been done a few times! Not many times though..

23

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy moles on Yesterday at 06:02:37 pm »

Bit of an absurd comparison to make, was what I was getting at. At least apples and oranges are both similarly-sized spherical fruit.

Apologies, re-reading your post I agree with the general point.

Though my impression is that hard E-grades are not always graded for the hypothetical on-sight attempt - listening to what various people climbing those routes have said or written, it doesn't always seem to be a consideration. In Dave Mac's recent-ish video on how he grades routes, for example, he didn't even touch on it.

24

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by monkoffunk on Yesterday at 05:58:10 pm »

M - Yoga
T - Yoga
W - Yoga
T - 5k run. Been a little lax about keeping this regular. First in just under a month. Felt so good in evening after.
F - Elbow physio exercises. Yoga.
S - Nothing.
S - Yoga

Basically a rest week. Not sure when I’ll get chance to get out again, but hopefully do some more training this week.

25

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Yesterday at 05:37:24 pm »

Bit of an absurd comparison to make, was what I was getting at. At least apples and oranges are both similarly-sized spherical fruit.

26

music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by Oldmanmatt on Yesterday at 05:35:59 pm »

I am certain, that (barring some undisclosed mental health issues) the writers of the new season of Dr Who, are on Acid.

Still, made me smile.

27

shootin' the shit / Re: U-S-A! The American Politics Thread.

« Last post by Bradders on Yesterday at 05:28:28 pm »

Would be really nice to have some context to that. Anyone have a video of it?

28

music, art and culture / Re: The right to counter-protest

« Last post by stone on Yesterday at 04:52:24 pm »

I've just heard a really interesting BBC R4 program where Anwar Akhtar interviews (amongst others) protestors and counter-protestors in Leeds University. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001zk1s

29

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy moles on Yesterday at 04:52:22 pm »

Leading to the reductio ad absurdum that WSS is harder than Right Wall because it takes most people a few more goes.

That's hardly ad absurdum, WSS is much harder than Right Wall! It's not just 'a few more goes', there are loads of climbers who would onsight Right Wall but wouldn't get up WSS after a multi session siege. And yes, the same is true in reverse, but only for boulderers who don't actually climb trad.

Not that this matters, because WSS isn't graded E4 any more.

30

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Duncan Disorderly on Yesterday at 04:35:19 pm »

What's the fucking point... Club

M: Paddling in't lakes - fun.
T: Sheaf bloc - Tried hard, did all traverse moves, now feels only marginally impossible...
W: Matterhorn Ridge with the GF - Brilliant post work adventure climbing - loose, easy and bugger all decent gear... Mmmmm 
T: Shoulder kicked off! Not happy at all.
F: Shoulder and hip kicking off - managed to get a last minute quack appointment - hip pain is almost unbearable! Like someone is sticking a red hot poker into my groin!
S: Shoulder seems back to normal - hip felt like murder! Sat in a hot tub under the stars and drank cocktails...
S: Hungover.

All seems to have gone south recently - no idea what the issue with the hip is, always been tight but seems to have stepped up a gear with random bouts of agonizing pain. Thankfully ROM isn't affected and standing up actually helps... Got a physio appt now so am going to push for a scan... All this is going to be after Verdon next week though so I've got a full bag of Ibuprofen and Naproxen and will dose meself up before abbing into owt and hope for the best... Arse!