UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: r-man on April 16, 2009, 01:10:11 pm
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On Tom Newberry's logbook. Sounds intriguing, anyone know owt?
8A Supercede Hartland FA world class!!!
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I know a little....others know more.
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New 7b+ at Hartland
???
Jakes, my god, someone has managed to write a less helpful post than mine, hang on I'll try to mail order you a medal.
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anyone know owt?
I know a little....others know more.
sorry forgot to add the little man with the sticking out tongue... :P
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can someone tell me what the fuck you're talking about?
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Dense, there's a new 8a at Hartland.
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Hartland is mentioned in the North Coast Beaches bit here (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/HardDevonBouldering/index.shtml).
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so what is fiend talking about?
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come on you gays, what's the deal?
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Didn't realise he was giving it 8a???
The word on the SW grapevine is that the project to the right (or is it left? well it's in the vicinity) of the 'classic' Carnage (7b), was indeed sent by young Tom Newberry at some point last week.
Dave Westlake was there so will be able to give more details. All I know is that it is a bluddy good effort on a long stadning project, nice work Mr Newberry!
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errrrrrrrrrrrr..... :-[ standing!
It's hard
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errrrrrrrrrrrr..... :-[ standing!
It's hard
Sounds dodgy.. The problem in question is right next to Carnage and is definitely one of the hardest in the area... Didn't get to finish post due to work!
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This sounds good in relation to my other recent post on places to go :) Any ideas if its quite an obvious line or eliminate?
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come on dave westlake! out with it.
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This sounds good in relation to my other recent post on places to go :) Any ideas if its quite an obvious line or eliminate?
It's a pretty obvious line; the wall to the right of carnage via the obvious line of weakness. This is actually one of the best lines in Devon/Cornwall, so well worth checking out (and good effort Tom!)
Stu
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I believe it is also possible to cop out leftwards into the finish of Carnage at a slightly easier grade.
By all accounts both Carnage and Tom's line (Supercedes?) are high in the quality stakes.
Both problems need a collection of pads (at least 4) and a good spot to make them more friendly. They are affected by tide, easiest to scramble down to beach and walk across to them. Can be found opposite the route 'Canard'. An overhanging wall. Carnage utilises an obvious undercut and the new problem is to the right of this. That just leaves the ridiculous looking roof crack in the same cave as Acheball!
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So not a single photo then...
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yea I'm looking forward to a photo, even a photo of carnage would be good. I found quite a few few of the problems when I was down that way a few years ago, but never found Carnage. I did find and do 'wet bootie' which doesn't look as good as in the OTE pic, not does it have much resemblance to Karma, But I can see what Simon Young was getting at just!
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yea I'm looking forward to a photo, even a photo of carnage would be good. I found quite a few few of the problems when I was down that way a few years ago, but never found Carnage. I did find and do 'wet bootie' which doesn't look as good as in the OTE pic, not does it have much resemblance to Karma, But I can see what Simon Young was getting at just!
photo of Ru on carnage courtesy of dark peak image homies:
(http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk/albums/southwest/carnage_1_small.jpg)
more here. (http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk/php-cgi/gallery2/southwest)
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dave? dave?
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dave? dave?
:lol:
I think Dave's keeping schtum or going all anonomous on us... Saw some nice photos taken by Dave of Tom on said problem and others on Carnage last night.. Come on Dave post up 'em up for the punters to see the quality..
The piccies made it clear that you can also start as for Supercede (which appears to be a very obvious line of vertical holds to a horrendous slopey finish, just right of Carnage), then traverse leftwards into the undercut of Carnage and finish up the end of this. (It's Dave's problem.. called Corridors of Power??)..
Dave? Dave? ...........................................
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dave? dave?
Sounds like a Radio 1 jingle.
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Heard on the grapevine at the Northcott bouldering meet last night (great turn out 30+ peeps, beautiful weather, bemused tourists and good surf all came together for us BTW, thanks for asking!)..
Tom Newberry sent the sitter to Supercede on Saturday, still at 8a apparently but an explanation for Dave's silence on the matter, he was after the 1st ascent on the sitter! Dave's still probably keen for the 2nd ascent so will want to :spank: me for telling you all about this. Suffice to say it looks like a class problem. No name yet but 'Superceded' would make sense?
Can someone please upload some piccies for the punters to see? Dave?
Whilst we're at it, big ups to Mikey Cleverdon for sending Red Quinnie at the meet yesterday, he is also mighty close to the project 2 the left of this which looks sick and will be somewhere in the 8s.
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ive seen pics. it looks class.
but...its still in fucking devon. no matter what you say dave, that says it all.
effort by Tom.
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i'll second chappers. not up a route, none of that scary shit
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Just spotted a photo of this. Looks good:
(http://www.8a.nu/images/gallery/16125_633885246364241250.jpg)
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Looks ace, but by the look of the rock, getting it in non-greasy conditions looks to be the crux.
And someone should take a sledgehammer to that flange sticking out the ground.
(not serious, I don't condone chipping on such a scale)
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There is a new report of the North Coast Bouldering here on Javu (http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/NC_Bouldering.shtml). The photo below, taken from Javu, is of the same problem…
(http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/photos/supercede1.jpg)
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That new secret venue looks good.
I think at this point I would probably start to panic...
(http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/photos/Hey_Joe_V4.jpg)
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Yeah saw that. Top looks super slopey. Some nice pics with breaking waves in the background from same spot.
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That secret venue looks awesome! Anyone on here know when the cat'll be let out of the bag? It's in striking distance of bristol and it'd be nice to have some new stuff to go at.
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That secret venue looks awesome! Anyone on here know when the cat'll be let out of the bag? It's in striking distance of bristol and it'd be nice to have some new stuff to go at.
Writing a mini-guide to the new place is on my to-do list, but we have some more exploring to do down there before any cats are let out of bags!
I am also in the process of writing a mini guide for the Hartland area, and this should be finished fairly soon...
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Looks like a great find Dave.
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From Tom's report:
"I also climbed a supposed Stu Littlefair/Dave Westlake project on a roof between Ache Ball and Clinical Edge. I did this and suggested about 6b/c, Dave Westlake then repeated it with my beta and agreed with the grade, wondering what an earth he had been trying to do before. I named it ‘Spanner’ however this isn’t a great addition to the beach. "
This almost made me piss myself!! Nice write up Tom!