1

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Ed booth on Today at 06:40:50 pm »

[quote author=Tony
This is nonsense. Here’s a tip: do not use these pegs (they’re probably ~50 years old). There are a couple of small wires in that area in good rock, use these (backed up to the perfectly good gear at the top) if you wanna top rope.
[/quote]
What is nonsense?
We must have a different assessment of good runners. The couple of small wires you mention didn’t jump out at me. I was lowered in by my partner and hung around looking to make a natural belay there and didn’t see much that inspired any confidence.
Similarly the gear on the top that you previously described as more than adequate , is in my opinion, not brilliant. Loads of heavily weathered cracks of exfoliating limestone.
I can see that you won’t agree with me so maybe this is a futile debate.

2

get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by spidermonkey09 on Today at 06:19:28 pm »

Yep, I still think that. Call me ignorant all you want. 

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Tony on Today at 06:12:45 pm »

think you'll find it was JB that actually initially said that might be a compromise solution in post #26!

No, it was posited as an (potentially unpalatable) option by Jonboy, you suggested it was a good idea.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Tony on Today at 06:06:39 pm »

There are a couple of very old pegs at the top (top in a sporty sense, end of the clean overhanging rock, where it transitions into a chossy easier angled groove) of EOTT. These are where the bolt was that I saw chopped . The bolt backed up the pegs which are now pretty poor. I think one has no eye and the other was shit.

This is nonsense. Here’s a tip: do not use these pegs (they’re probably ~50 years old). There are a couple of small wires in that area in good rock, use these (backed up to the perfectly good gear at the top) if you wanna top rope.

On a separate but semi-related topic, has EOTT had many on sights? Steve? Jacopo?

A more pertinent question is how many have tried these routes ground-up? It is 1 of about 3 E7s to reasonably ground up in the Peak District. It is 1 of 2 that could be done without any change in grade entirely without any in situ gear. There is no need for any in situ gear on any of the routes on that buttress. That is the most remarkable thing about those routes: hard but completely protectable climbing.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by spidermonkey09 on Today at 05:58:48 pm »

Steady on Tony; think you'll find it was JB that actually initially said that might be a compromise solution in post #26!

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Tony on Today at 05:54:34 pm »

JB lives in that far-off unsullied fantasy land known as The Unspoiled Trad Environment. I think NY probably often visits there on holiday  .

Pete has something happened? I don’t like that you’re moving in on my turf of being the antagonistic “knob” [thanks to various punters for that one] on UKB, albeit one that spouts bullsh1t in an (even more) self-righteous fashion.

Aside from your fantastical aside, you seem to think you have much more knowledge of the situation in the Peak than is reality as is apparent from your comments.

It’s fairly obvious that NY’s “decent compromise” comments were a riposte to spidermonkey09’s, frankly ignorant, suggestion.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by petejh on Today at 05:00:19 pm »

I think a decent compromise is us following the very simple rules already in place as asked for by the land owner(who has every right to tell us to fuck off)! What is it with us as a group..? And our sense of entitlement and inability to follow simple rules, access is only going to become more of an issue, if we can’t do better, we deserve everything we get…

This, and arguments similar to this, are commonly heard in cases like this. To be clear I'm not in favour of antagonising those with a legal right to make life difficult for climbers. And I am in favour of access agreements where time and circumstance have arrived at this formal approach being the way to preserve climbing access - and this example seems like a place where not risking rocking the boat is the most sensible approach. (and request a few discreet very low profile 12mm glue-in clippy-stick access bolts to tidy up the pinnacle, preserve vegetation(?), and 'replace unsightly old fixed gear'...)

But be honest about the wider scene rather than make-believe. It's rarely as simple as: 'lets follow the rules'. We can pretend that climbing takes place according to landowners' rules if that's what suits our argument at the time, but climbing doesn't happen like that in reality.

If you truly believe in a fairytale of 'we only do what the landowner has explicitly permitted following a formal request' then don't ever climb on the slate, and strip the Diamond access route tomorrow. Then relax in a warm glow of knowing you're righteously following the landowners' rules (oh what you really think Mostyn Estates want to know about and agree to a via ferrata on their land?!). Loads of other places where we just go and climb and place all sorts of fixed stuff without seeking explicit permission.. and hope it turns out ok.

No coincidence that two people making a case against bolts here are JB and NY. JB lives in that far-off unsullied fantasy land known as The Unspoiled Trad Environment. I think NY probably often visits there on holiday  . 

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chuffing / Re: Quality chuffing videos...

« Last post by Wellsy on Today at 04:37:12 pm »

My anti style is things that are hard

Easy stuff? No problem. Unless it's hard. Then I can't do it.

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abroad / Turkey DWS beta

« Last post by CrimpyMcCrimpface on Today at 03:55:02 pm »

Hello hello. I'm looking for any info on DWS in Turkey. I've seen a lot of mention online of DWS spots around Olympos and Adrasan, some pictures and videos too, but couldn't find any topos or published guides. UKC is also fairly sparse too and doesn't even include any DWS for Olympos. I should be floating around the coast from Dalman to Antalya for a week in July so access should be ok, I just need to find where to point the boat! Thanks

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chuffing / Re: Quality chuffing videos...

« Last post by abarro81 on Today at 03:15:56 pm »

If I had a pound for every time someone claimed that something is their anti-style just because it doesn't quite fit... It's amazing how many people who like 40 degree boards on edges think that 40 degrees on pinches or shouldery moves is their anti-style, without wondering whether maybe they'd actually find a granite bridging groove or offwidth a little more "anti-style"...