UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bonjoy on December 31, 2006, 04:41:22 pm
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The year's end is upon us and what did it bring you in the way of climbing? This is a climbing discussion board after all, so modesty/embarassment etc aside, if you please i'd like to know all/any of the following as applicable:
- Top three boulder probs, UK
- Top three boulder probs, abroad
- Top three trad routes/soloes UK
- Top three sport routes UK
- Top three routes abroad (any genre)
- Top three new route/prob put up
To kick things off:
- Brad's Wall - Stanton, My Buddy the Apple - Rowtor and Great White - Curbar
- Beresina - Cuvier, Noir Desir - Rempart and Eclipse - Cul du Chien
- Priapism - Blue Scar, Balas - Kilnsey and Powerplay - Yew Cogar
- Pistol Fingers - Long Tor Quarry, Soft Option - Kilnsey and GBH - Malham
- Nuit de Temps, Les Couilles au Cul and Le Tresor du Zebra, all Gorges Du Tarn
- Forest Casual - Black Garden, Pistol Fingers - Long Tor Quarry and Fearful Orange - Gardom's
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Personal favourites:
Brit boulders: Suckerpunch (Guisecliff), Sing a Rainbow (Carrock), Pinky (Brimham... probably more a case of deferred gratification than quality of climbing).
Brit Trad: Darius (High Tor), Rock Island Line (Peel Crag), Arcturus/Golden Slipper link (Pavey Arc... the most perfect belays on a perfect summer's day).
Sport (only had a few days in Spain at Easter so from a very limited pool!): Tecnocratas (Sella), Pepestroika / Aramarda del Pillar (Gandia, v. similar can't decide between them), El Sol (Gandia).
Non UK Trad... only two routes but worth mentioning as they are both great: Espalon Central (Puig, Costa Blanca), Deidre USBA (Penon, Costa - lots of hideous grit-esque chimneying... with added bird shit!)
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Bonjoy you put me to shame, i hardly done enough climbing to fill all your criteria :'(
Top three boulder problems UK - Trigger Cut, Ain't No Party on the Orme, Solace Arete at Talfarach.
Top three boulders abroad - Harry Spotter, and Boulette - Cresciano, Raindogs right at Chironico
Top Trad - The Boldest and Midsummers up at Cloggy (Nic led all of midsummers though but the traversy bits felt scary to second)
Top routes UK- Haven't done many but Little Plum at Stoney and Hot Fun at rubicon- both for the history. Also doin bad bad boy for the 40th time was pretty special (sad bastard) :)
Top routes abroad - Vas o Vale siurana and two of them pumpy fuckers at Terradets (think ones called Jam Session)
Top three FA's - Ain't no Party, The Malteser and The Highlife - all on the orme
It all amounts to not very much but i was injured for three months in the summer so that pissed on my bonfire. Roll on 2007.
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This should maybe go in a different thread but i'd like to add my worst moment (apart from being injured) was spending 6 hours on a VS on Llech Ddu. Shit crag i hope it falls down.
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Worst moments for me would be the bloody hip popping out on Soul Power and dropping Keenus at LTQ, fortunately he caught the rope and avoided decking!
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Here goes...
Top three boulder probs:
Suavito(Gardoms), Pedestal Arete(Caley) and Quasar(Sampson's Stones)
Top three boulder probs, abroad:
Jokari Droite(Sablon), Chasseur de Prises(R Canon), El Poussif (Isatis)
Top three trad routes/soloes:
Veal Thing(Curbar), Bancroft's Roof (Almscliff), Rouse's Wall (Carrock Fell)
Top three sport routes:
N/A
Top three routes abroad:
N/A
Top three new route/prob put up:
Creep (Tube), That Boy Needs Therapy, Dawn Raider (Tube).
Top three climbing moments/memories:
Summer lakes trip with t' old man.
Summer evenings at the tor.
Font fun and games
Oops, my new years resolution should be to get abroad more, and do more trad and sport climbing!
Edit: Worst Moments:
Dropping Tom P. down the hill at Caley from Guacamole twice in a row. We thought he had broken his arm.
Visiting Boulderhog's Pen Of Pain and not being able to get from the bottom to the top, even on the sub V3 warm ups. It goes up to V12 :o
Topping out on Ben's Groove on a very warm evening in the dark :'(
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Top Three: (Does this mean hardest or favourite?)
Hardest: Pigswill, Pigswill Eliminate, Not My Stile; Favourite: Razor Roof, Not My Stile, Pigswill
Top Three put up (also second/third ascents of quarried esoterica)
Dinosaur Adventure 3D 6c+, Lower Montcliffe on christmas eve, first ascent
Snakey B 6c+, Wilton 1, third ascent, really nice problem
(OK, only two, but both very very good problems)
Best moments:
finishing Pigswill on a beautiful day in April, with Martin Boysen and Steve Bancroft watching
falling off Smooth Torquer at Kilnsey, repeatedly, including a huge lob
summer days at Kilnsey
summer days at the Wiltons
autumn days at Caley and Almscliff, flashing V4s and V5s
winter days at Brownstones doing the classics again
rainy days at BoulderUK, falling off the sodding V7s...
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Top Three: (Does this mean hardest or favourite?)
Favourite, but they often coincide anyway
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Top three boulder probs, UK: Not the most succesfull year bouldering as I got injured very early on, but:
Caley, the left arete of the horn boulder. Slopy and a bit dynamic - exactly what I'm really shit at.
Almscliff: Eliminate on the front face of the Virgin using crimp for LH and a footlock - exactly what I'm good at, so it was a real gift at the grade and a good bit of ego massage.
Raven Tor: The Weedkiller traverse, it's a sickness and I'm sorry.
Top three boulder probs, abroad:
Font: Pensees cachees. Holy Moly.
Cresciano: Some 7a+ OH trav opposite La Boule. Good problem but special because I did it on New Years day.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK: Embarrassingly haven't done a single trad route this year.
Top three sport routes UK:
Kilnsey: Urgent Action, has to be one the top 3 sport routes in the country.
Kilnsey: Grooved Arete, done a few days after having a wisdom tooth out.
Malham: The Oak, awesome route. The holds are all big, the crux is moving your feet
Top three routes abroad (any genre):
Only one sport climbing trip this year, to Nice. It's ruined Yorkshire for me.
Deverse:Mekanik Destruktiv Kommando, big fight at the end of the redpoint.
Any of the amazing 30m, overhanging 6cs I did at Peillon, Castillion or La Turbie.
Top three new route/prob put up:
Only one:
Kilnsey: OTT, a link from WYSIWYG to Vanilla Path via the rising traverse of Heresy. Features an amazing 12' of new climbing! It's actually a good line, and stays drier than most things on North Buttress.
The Low point of the year has to be this feckin cold, which I can't shift.
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UK best: Bens roof, eatswood traverse, a roof thing at back bowden.
abroad best: double detante (font - flash), zilliman (magic wood), red roses (flash).
trad/solos: black chimney, castle chimney, Cleft Wing Superdirect, at stanage.
Uk sport: first bit of chimes.
abroad sport: 6a thing on happy island, mai pen rai in the defile, 6b thing at muai thai, thailand.
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uk: brad's wall - stanton, double bum - gardoms, mammoth book of ufo's - stanton
abroad: golden eye - magic wood, double detente - mont pivot, salathe wall - rempart
trad: white slab - cloggy
sport: n/a
routes abroad: n/a
3 probs put up: n/a i think
worst trad: getting dragged kicking and screaming up some shit crack at cloggy. a lot of screaming
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UK: The Nose, some eliminate on the Virgin, Mothership Reconnection
Abroad: n/a
Trad: only one so it's got to be Central Wall, Kilnsey
Sport UK: Raindogs (obviously), The Ashes (got to be the best route of it's grade in the country IMHO), The Maximum
Sport Abroad: n/a
First ascents: n/a
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- Top three boulder probs, UK
Deliverance, the terrace, Ben's roof
- Top three boulder probs, abroad
Grottes des soupirs, la boule (not finished), dreamtime stand (unfinished)
- Top three trad routes/soloes UK
hahahaha! does clipping a thread on stoney count?
- Top three sport routes UK
Caviar, PUTP (v.close but sadly unfinished)
- Top three routes abroad (any genre)
didnt go abroad to climb routes this year.
- Top three new route/prob put up
dobbin's big pink suprise at the school. Neo classic.
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Andy F you tease, i forgot about thorn crag. i would like to swap mothership for book of ufo's please
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Top three boulder probs, UK: Brads Arete @ Eagle Tor; Silk Start @ Stanage; A little Extra Direct Start (not because it's good but because I'd been trying it a long time).
Top three trad routes/soloes UK: Stairway to Heaven on Dinas Mot; a damp Weaklings Wall on Brown Crag in Aberdeen which was a bit of an adventure after work; Regent Street at Millstone.
Top three sport routes UK: Flashing Martial Music @ the Cornice - didn't succeed on any of my projects which was a bit of a disapointment.
Top three routes abroad (any genre): La Fronta de Popula People of Judea and some other 6b+'s at El Chorro in Feb.
Also paddling out in heavy surf at High Rocks in Barbados with two Hawaiian Nth Shore Veterans who couldn't make it out... one got swept down the coast and the other just couldn't get through the shorebreak - I caught two mackers :-) . Surfing with the dolphins and having perfect head-high surf at Easky for a whole week; catching a hefty one at 6ft Rodiles amongst the super aggressive locals..
Learning to play the banjo.
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Home: Soft on the G, Gardoms. Pocket Creme, Talfarach (done before but still up there). Can't think of a 3rd (not been in UK much) OK, The Gimp, Caseg (done before but still coolest prob of the year).
Abroad: Mantis, koh Tao. Skyla, Koh Tao. Some arete in Finland (name lost).
All routes: N/A
New probs: Pauls' Boutique, Koh Tao. Houdini, Beddgelert. Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.
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Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.
What a great name. Is there a background?
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...
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* Top three boulder probs, UK
Picnic Sarcastic SS (was well psyched at the end of a looong weekend), Zoo York standing start, Caley and All Quiet at Burbage.
* Top three boulder probs, abroad
Shiver Me Timbers, Camp 4 (An oddly seldom climbed highball classic), Wasabi, Washoe Boulders, Tahoe and Go Granny Go at the Buttermilks.
* Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Sucessor State, Brimham, Bancrofts Roof at the cliff (scaring (woz) half to death as my feet swung off!) and Wall End Slab at Stanage.
* Top three sport routes UK
Only did three, so I guess it's Dead End Job and Frankenstein at Malham and Smooth Torquer at Kilnsey
* Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Snake Dyke (the walk almost killed me), Some Bachar route at Owens Valley and one of the steep Juggy ones at Big Bear
Great year, but would, like to get abroad more this year, back to Font first off!
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- Top three boulder probs, UK
perfect day start, picnic sitter, weedkiller footless (from one move in) this bit depresses me somewhat, implies i haven't actually done much at all this autumn, winter... stop fucking raining!!!!
- Top three problemos abroad
berenzina (didn't do it, will do) centaur, carnage all at font....
- Top three sport routes UK
comedy, raindogs, brachiation dance
- Top three routes abroad (any genre)
galaxy, changement de look, corps etranger all ceuse, what a shit crag.
goals for 2007, consolidated font 7c, get back to ceuse, avoid injury,and to not get rained on so fucking much.
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Why are people writing about what they failed on? There must be things you have climbed that you are more proud of than what you've failed on???
Dobbin, did you actually climb dobbins pink suprise? Because I think to put up a new problem implies you have done it, although in this peculiar case you are technically correct. You did "put it up" so I'll let this slide... ;)
- Top three boulder probs, UK
The Keel (because it was suprisingly hard for me), Crazy Legs Crome (wild moves + excellent seqence), Pete's Power Pull (because it involved no feet but plenty of power)
- Top three boulder probs, abroad
Hypothese (ultimate classic 7C+), Eclipse (best 7C in font?), Berezina (first 7C in font, classic status)
I've kept it to bouldering only because I can't remember anything else I've done and because this is ukbouldering. But I also failed on some amazing problems. They will be in next years achieved list.
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uk
brad pit - finally!!!!!! didnt intend to try it n it went 1st go ;D
lou ferrino - if only it topped out
tetris - how good is this!!
Abroad
psoass mole, targa - 1st 8a+ so beautiful, nearly screamed the crag down!!
the egg, squamish - blew pulley on this last year, 4th go this year, double psyched
the flame, hueco - easy for v12 but so good
trad
hmmmmmmmmmm, wot was that again
sport
too much like work 4 my liking
FA
across the pond, hueco - obvious line with cool moves maybe soft v11
best moments
brad pit, psoassmole, the egg, the flame, chilled day at st bees 4 my bday, maybe in that order
worst moments
pulley (again) torn hamstring (couldnt heelhook, my worst nightmare!!!!) carrying a shoulder/elbow injury 4 7 weeks of my dream states trip
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2006 finally saw a return to some amount of form after a nearly 2 year injury recovery...
* Top three boulder probs, UK
Undercooke (St Bees), Deliverance (only 'cos i could still do it)
* Top three boulder probs, abroad
Untem Beim Ziller 7c (Zillertal), U Boat 6c (Magic Wood)
* Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Skeleton Ridge (Isle of Wight), Tower Chimney (Stanage), Crab Crawl Arete (Stanage - the last route of the VS challenge)
* Top three sport routes UK
Tufa King Hard (Chapel Head Scar), Englands Dreaming (Blacknor)
* Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Ula (Verdon), Sarre Roof (Italy), Baisser Sanglant (Verdon - mind blowing exposure and encounter with a gryffon vulture nest)
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Sport Abroad:
Magic Flute on the Bernia Ridge, it was just such an amazing experience, everything, not just the route. An untouchable memory for me I think.
Sport UK:
Thormans Moth, absolute top-notch quality, thanks AP but probably more, thanks Jon :beer2:
Trad:
Black Magic @ Pentire Head, it just went on and on and on; Inaccessible, surely the Churnet's finest offering and unrepeated for sooo long; Catharsis, yes, get in! There are more, but OP states three...
Bouldering:
Don't think I've done a new one this year, the pad has stayed stashed all year really :oops: at a push, perhaps Ina City Riot at Ina's because it's a highball really or something in Northumbria early in the year.. In that case I'll take a general 'Leek Lads' tick and include Martin's final decade long siege and final success on Inertia Reel Traverse, he totally deserved that :thumbsup:
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Home:
Brads Wall (Stanton), Autumn (Eagle), Yabbadabbadoo! (Burbage)
Away:
Iceberg (Isatis), Froggy Dick (Isatis), Futur Anterieur (Apremont)
Routes Home:
None worth mentioning
Routes Away:
Can't remember names but they're all awesome tufa lines in Turkey
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Had a really bad year (or at least the first 6 months) due to bad health. I could only manage about an hour's worth of easy bouldering a week until June. So no trips abroad and no routes at all.
Second half of the year started feeling a bit better and was made up to get back in the game, so to speak.
Best problems (partly because they are all things that I've disregarded in the past, but I now realise how great they are):
Sleep Deprivation 7b+ at the Cromlech Boulders - awesome problem!
Pill Thrill 7a+ at Pill Box Wall - a forgotten classic
The Heeling Process 7aish at Manor crag - another forgotten problem at a forgotten crag
Best first ascents:
The Quickness 7a+ at the Cromlech Boulders - really pleased to get such a cool problem in such an intensely developed area. I was pretty ill for about a week afterwards, but it was worth it.
Rock for Light 7b at the Cromlech again - although it turns out that this may have been done the year before by Mark Evans. Even so it was a major highlight, and one of the best, and probably the longest (27 hand movements) roof problem I've ever done.
Sleep Deprivation/CRC/Turmoil link 7b/+ - another epic captured on film by Doylo
Highlights were health improvements, developing the CRC cave at the Cromlech (obviously), doing all the moves on Bus Stop and realising how brilliant Pill Box Wall is again (even though I keep falling off the last move of everything).
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I can't believe the number of posts during new years eve partys (were they shit?), but when Dave told me about this `best three 2006 trad routes thread' today, well wild horses couldn't hold me back, so I'm a bit dissappointed, but nevermind. Doylo, I'm an apprentice on The Way Of The Choss Tosser (so nice one JR - did you do the original Skeleton Ridge start? what did you think to the top arete?), and years ago I told my self I didn't have to climb Mam Tor if I didn't want to, as it's a winter crag (but I still want to). You don't hear about the Scots doing a great deal of climbing on Creag Meaghaidh (sp?) in summer. So please dear god let a plague of searing heat waves prove me wrong, but I'm guessing Llech Ddu is best left as a winter crag. Plus, don't you have to walk past a bit of bouldering? Apologies and respect if you were trying a winter ascent of a summer VS.
The first two categories I can only fill with `default' entries, repeats, and by interpreting `abroad' as `overseas' - to get to Wales from Bristol you have to go over the sea. In fact fuck that, for me abroad is outside Bristol :-[. Despite this the second one is still empty:
Boulders...Top three boulder probs, UK
Remergence (never fails to delight), Particles (worth the scramble), and the V5 crack problem right of the prince
Top three boulder probs, abroad
-none- did no bouldering in south wales.
These are the ones that I've enjoyed the most, or that were the best routes. I think this is the important thing, so I'm including a few
failures, as they are awesome routes and this way I'm more likely to finish them off. They are the harder routes I've done, but this not due to grade waving but due to a concerted effort to polish off the remaining starred routes at E2 and below - iced.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK,
Captain Swing (I was so happy afterwards), Motorway Madness (a bit more gnarly than Star Wars but similarly is just a really great trad route),
Steppenwolf (for letting me know I could still climb E3 after falling upside down on my head off a fence)
Top three sport routes UK
Encore Magnifique (dogged), Empire of the Sun (racking up the air miles), Bullworker (more for relenting to gritstone cheating (a toe hook) than for rock quality (it lost a jug to me))
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Star Wars, Land Of The Giants (the best route I failed on (though Zeppelin came close) and the most impressive wall I never climbed), Ahimsa (was well worth saving the flash for, not seconding it)
Top three new route/prob put up
`King Choice (great move), Particles Right Hand (such a quality hold deserves two problems), Operational Reasons (because I love edges).
This new year will see my worst new routes yet, as long as noone's stolen them. one of them will hoepfully be called Forgotten but not Forgiven, after the cleaning tactics.
I'm going off on a tangent now, sorry.
Bonjoy - you know the Science answer to the chicken egg question? The egg came first, chickens evolved from poultry birds/foul that were closely related to hens but technically not chickens according to the pedants who classify them. The parents of the first baby chicken (in it's fertilised egg, which was probably mutant off spring) were such birds, possibly some sort of Thai game bird or sommat, according to Q.I.
If anyone thinks Chickens were created (by something other than evolution) then they can ask God themselves for the answer.
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Yes, i've argued for the egg coming first for the same reason. Bit of a no brainer, never understood what the fuss was all about.
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* Top three boulder probs, UK
Larger Larger Larger (Earl Crag), Outer Reach (Thorn Crag) and Phantom of the Opera (The Stone). I actually think Final Curtain is a better problem but I'm putting Phantom as I put more effort in and thus felt more satisfied afterward.
* Top three boulder probs, abroad
White Gold (Vall De Son Marc) Liso Belleza (Vall De Son Marc) and Gold Eye (Magic Wood) - Did loads of good things abroad that I can't remember the name of, damn my memory :shrug:
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top 3 uk.
turbulance (woodwell). the terrace (burbage). picnic sarcastic sitter (the stone)
top 3 abroad.
toit de cul de chien. charcuterie (cuviar). jet set (sabbots)
highlights - fallinbg off "pauls boutique" on koh tao (nobody tell houdini), doing "evil empire" on koh tao. and biggest of all, moving back up to lancashire.
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trad: white slab - cloggy
My god dense, a man of never-ending surprises!
Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.
Nice, I like your style Houdini ;)
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Best Uk
T crack at Cratcliffe
Attitude Inspector Burbage
Morning Sickness Widdop - just such a great dyno.
Best abroad
Only played about while in Pyrenees :shrug: so
le bec du canard @ Le clot Cauterets http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50773
and a 6b I couldn't do two years ago that I managed to send http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50786
However this year I'm off to font for the first time :thumbsup:
so I should have a big abroad list.
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I can't believe the number of posts during new years eve partys (were they shit?), but when Dave told me about this `best three 2006 trad routes thread' today, well wild horses couldn't hold me back, so I'm a bit dissappointed, but nevermind. Doylo, I'm an apprentice on The Way Of The Choss Tosser (so nice one JR - did you do the original Skeleton Ridge start? what did you think to the top arete?)
If the original start is, as you would logically assume, the one in the esoterica section of the guidebook then yes we did the original start. The top arete was exciting to say the least and in the wind which was whipping around on the day it felt like the great sail of protruding rock could blow over at any point. Supposedly a lot of rockfalls have made it especially interesting over the past few years, it bore no relation to the guidebook description anyway and certainly felt more like XS than VS. And in line with your post, I am informed CUMC got rescued from the bottom of the last pitch in winter after dark. What they were doing up there in december is beyond me (having supposedly only left mid morning), but then again we did do it on the big storm day in june with jetlag... you've got to give the crag a chance.
An awesome route but i'd be fearful in recommending it to anyone in case I was held responsible for their death.
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rich d wrote: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50773
:lol:
Sorry but the stance of the spotter is genius :lol:
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think it's the only way the fat lad can left his arms without his belly getting in the way - he'd been "training" for the trip.
But what training he'd done I've got no idea.
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Ugh I dislike this sort of stuff when it's posted on UKC, but just for you Bonjoy (and because UKB is a saner place):
- Top three boulder probs, UK
Mono pocket roof problem, Churnet Valley
Gorilla, Dumbarton
Anything at the Sheep Pen Boulders
- Top three boulder probs, abroad
Didn't do any.
- Top three trad routes/soloes UK
To be honest I could narrow it down to about 30.... 3 is just a random pick:
Poetry Pink, Llanberis Slate
Capital Punishment, Idwal
Wilton Wall, Wilton 2
(I mean this really is random, I could swap any of those with Ressurrection, Mau Mau, Blue Peter, Maen Twr Og, Mathematical Workout, Brother Chris, Terrapin, Blasphemy, Pillar Of Judgement, One Step Beyond, White Slabs Bunt, Paladin, Malice In Wonderland, Powerglide, Autumn Wall, The Count etc etc *wanders off into the distance mumbling to self*)
- Top three sport routes UK
Did some nice ones but not enough to call "top".
- Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Zagreb, Ceuse
Equinox, Ceuse
Coup De Blues, Ceuse
- Top three new route/prob put up
Not that this option is for Bonjoy to show off or anything :P. SOME of us don't actually put up new routes/problems. Well, I did, but only one is worth considering:
Delusion, Egerton Quarry
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But what training he'd done I've got no idea.
He's obviously been on the books, Chapter 3.ii. Spotting on Gentle Slopes, Part 2
Legs ecartes ready to receive, arms up (mind the dab) and go.
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Home best.
Wall dyno opposite Wall of Horrors start, Almscliff.
Short Shaun's, Rowtor. Better without foot block.
6b+ slab/arate/scoop next to Jerry's Arete, RHS. Wasn't expecting it's quality.
Away.
Went to Holland . .
Routes.
Flash wall VS, Kinder Outcrops. Worth the walk. (Dogged it) (on second)
Botrell's (sp?) Slab. Scarfell Main Butress.
Best/Worst of times.
Not killing StuM coming off Tourette's Arete.
Living where the sun don't shine.
Spending a warm night on summit of Scarfell Pike. First time in 5+ visits that I'd even seen the top.
Visiting L'aguille (hen cloud) for the first time.
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best uk bouldering: mansons wall, otley wall, crucifix arete,
best uk trad: mutiny crack, joint effort(staden), wilfred prockles (kyloe out), napes needle/needle ridge
best uk sport: directissima (kilnsey)
best abroad bouldering: black 38 (some 6b slab at elephant) - topo-less day spent at cuvier reconnaissance
best abroad route: n/a
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- Top three boulder probs, UK
Certainly not the hardest (ooh, check my ego), but most fulfilling at the time: Finally getting round to doing Mark's roof, flashing Phobia of Fishy Smells (Talfarach) and Blood Sugar Sex Magic despite all my near death experiences on or around that problem thanks to breaking holds and missing mats.
- Top three boulder probs, abroad
An unnamed but lovely 7b at El Cogul, an unnamed, ungraded and undescribed arete at Medonnet (which really helps people know what I'm talking about) and la Rhume Folle (not hard but gorgeous from start to finish).
- Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Great Slab at Alderman - perfect easy grit solo. Anything at Pembroke (I'm getting lazy now but I'm a busy man).
- Top three sport routes UK
Didn't do more than about four days sport climbing in the UK this year. Most of it was barely memorable.
- Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Chapelle de la Gliere integrale - one of the best alpine warm up routes I've done, worth the slog for the razor passage alone. Weather pissed on most of our plans for the rest of our time in the Alps but we did end up exploring the new rock routes near Barberine and some of them were very good. Great days out actually, lots of pitches of fairly steady rock climbing on a range of angles.
- Top three new route/prob put up
Erm... I found a wonderful new hold at Pex a couple of months ago. It really is a lovely sloper that's well hard to use, the thought of it has excited me because I haven't managed to link it into a problem using it with my right hand yet. Otherwise nothing new I should imagine, not since I moved back from the hillsides covered with unclimbed rock in NZ.
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rich d wrote: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50773
:lol:
Sorry but the stance of the spotter is genius :lol:
Position #37: The French Lavatory Squat
Delusion, Egerton Quarry
I've got this on video for all you doubters...
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- Top three boulder probs, UK
- Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Chapelle de la Gliere integrale - one of the best alpine warm up routes I've done, worth the slog for the razor passage alone. Weather pissed on most of our plans for the rest of our time in the Alps but we did end up exploring the new rock routes near Barberine and some of them were very good. Great days out actually, lots of pitches of fairly steady rock climbing on a range of angles.
Ahh, thats a great route. The razor passage is awesome. I took a mate up that as her first ever outdoor climb...
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Not a great year for pushing my grade, particularly bouldering-wise, but a great year for mileage
* Top three boulder probs, UK
Just lots of good stuff, can't really remember anything to be honest. Maybe Limpet Wall at Angel bay, not really my style but the standout problem of the crag, a done with a good crew on Bonjoy's stag do.
* Top three boulder probs, abroad
L'Angle Parfait, Dame Jouanne and L'Angle Ben's in trainers (Jim's party piece, this one) are the standout of 50 '7s' in Font done over a couple of weeks. Black Slabbath at Squamish would have made the list if I'd got up it... damn baggy boots. Guess I'll take Viper instead, it was too hot to do much good really
* Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Script for a Tear, Roaches Skyline. Perfect rock, final tick on the far skyline.
Wanton Desire, Craig Dorys. Perfect 'interesting' rock, final tick on the golden wall.
Pillar Chimney, Clogwyn Du. Ice not thick enough to go up the mouth, so went up the back using the axes like parallel bars, genius.
Getting Dense up Cloggy also deserves a mention.
* Top three sport routes UK
Hmm... did go sport climbing but didn't do anything. I'll take Smitton's Wall and Realization at Crewe flats instead. Perfect summer bouldering venue in the city and, at the time of writing, still standing. Get in.
* Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque of the Unclimables. Doesn't get much better than this.
Freeway, Squamish. Couple of testing pitches, all very good, only marred by a few too many bolts.
Dream Symphony, Squamish. Highly entertaining, keep those boots clean.
* Top three new route/prob put up
Don't think I did any this year. New year's resolution - start keeping better bouldering records.
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best british boulder probs: boysen's crack, west side story, t-crack
foreign: desert island arete, demon wall roof, fight on black
sport: gbh, gbh, gbh
foreign sport: spent 3 weeks in ceuse dreaming of cragx
trad: energy crisis (gogarth), warpath (rhoscolyn), cockblock (grochan)
new: only one - slap bass odyssey (robin hood's)... should have been jonboy's. if only he'd been an inch taller
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Johnny Brown, Squamish? Is this what you meant by "big granite faces"? Where them "world advances" are being made?
If the original start is, as you would logically assume, the one in the esoterica section of the guidebook then yes we did the original start. The top arete was exciting to say the least and in the wind which was whipping around on the day it felt like the great sail of protruding rock could blow over at any point. Supposedly a lot of rockfalls have made it especially interesting over the past few years, it bore no relation to the guidebook description anyway and certainly felt more like XS than VS. And in line with your post, I am informed CUMC got rescued from the bottom of the last pitch in winter after dark. What they were doing up there in december is beyond me (having supposedly only left mid morning), but then again we did do it on the big storm day in june with jetlag... you've got to give the crag a chance.
An awesome route but i'd be fearful in recommending it to anyone in case I was held responsible for their death.
Are those holes (of Parnell's ?) for warthogs still there at the bottom?
I got to the top of the arete, and would've lept on top to aux cheval it like the photo of the lady in the guide, but I looked over the other side and saw that that side was overhanging, after the original support fell away, and it wasnt' clear what, if anything, was holding it up. This one photo has convinced some people that it is a simple mountain style ridge traverse, when the sea cliff logisitics, the looseness, and (no shit) the chalkiness is the crux. I wallopped a sling on a dodgy block on the top (to protect the second, not becuase I was scared, honestly) and hand traversed the top fin on the `solid' left hand side. I was about to recommend it to someone who asked about it, then I realised they were the type of people who sometimes magically manage to discover loose rock whereever they go. More importantly they'd never climbed on chalk before. Saw them New Years Eve, and I think they mainly boulder and clip bolts now... just because it's not as loose as you feared it might be, doesn't mean it's not loose.
We didn't have perfect weather either - firstly unless the swell made the water a metre higher than forecast, I'd cocked the tides up by an hour spent dozing in the fort, which should've been spent rigging the ab. The fucked tides in the solent means it is really hard to do the original start and traverse the whole ridge without getting wet. Mikey R's DWS link up sounds, fun, though it is interesting to note that he is a sea kayaker of no unconsiderable ability (attempting the France to Dorset run, anyone) and he chose to swim between the needles instead of going by boat. Secondly it was raining in the morning and even once it stopped, a freak hail storm hit the route before we got on it. Anyway, the `other start' is called Hot and Cold. I remember some high ball crimping on in situ dodgy flints leading to a crack, which I bridged up on flints. Then a really dodgy run out on vegetation to the ridge. Amazingly no flints broke on me - hence why I thought `more solid than you'd think'.
Is this the new generation of CUMC climbers? Thin wanted to ab off from their point of rescue, but I insisted on having a closer look, and found the wart hog holes and went for it. I was doing all right keeping in touch with the younger ones there, but then they graduated. (Or was it the old guard, Ru and Stu ;-) did you guys ever do Monster Crack like you said or did you both get happily married and write papers and guidebooks? ;-)). You are on about those from that old eastern city that has their own chalk pits to practise in aren't you- they should've done better! I'll have to find out who that was. Even if it was Cardiff, they've got Ogmore training.
I think you're right, it has changed a lot over the years. It bore no resemblance to the picture on the postcard I bought - the pristine white chalk was replaced by orangey brown rock scars in places. It didn't look like a simple trick of the light. Also, I wasn't sure at which pitch we'd joined the original route, but the guide goes on about this tower in the way, but that'd blatantly long gone.
As for the grade I'm guessing it's probably even a bit too hard a route to only get TD.
I'd still recommend it, but only if you like that sort of thing. It's certainly an adventure. If someone kills themselves when I'm not there it's not my fault. Beta may be wrong. You've got to let people go for it, and decide for themselves. Are you planning on doing Old Harry etc. near Swanage or any of the devon ones?
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I forgot the FA ones...
* Top three FA boulder probs, UK
Outer Reach (Thorn Crag), Moreau's Island (Hyning Wood), Paroxysm (Woodwell) and (what the hell I'm havin' four five :P ) Railblazer (Carrock) and Grand Unification (Threshthwaite Cove).
* Top three FA boulder probs, abroad
White Gold (Vall De Son Marc) Liso Belleza (Vall De Son Marc) and Schrodinger's Cat (Vall De Son Marc).
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best british boulder probs: boysen's crack...
Try telling that to the youth of today!
Reminds me I need to get round to devising that RHS/Cratcliff crack/grovel circuit.
Nice one doing Fight on Black by the way, didn't know you had that one in the bag.
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The Sausage dispatched FOB with consumate ease - I guess the climbing is fairly similar to woodology....
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Are those holes (of Parnell's ?) for warthogs still there at the bottom?
No but i made two more for two ice screws, i'm guessing they'll be gone by now too, and they were the only ones we placed.
I got to the top of the arete, and would've lept on top to aux cheval it like the photo of the lady in the guide, but I looked over the other side and saw that that side was overhanging, after the original support fell away, and it wasnt' clear what, if anything, was holding it up. This one photo has convinced some people that it is a simple mountain style ridge traverse, when the sea cliff logisitics, the looseness, and (no shit) the chalkiness is the crux. I wallopped a sling on a dodgy block on the top (to protect the second, not becuase I was scared, honestly) and hand traversed the top fin on the `solid' left hand side. I was about to recommend it to someone who asked about it, then I realised they were the type of people who sometimes magically manage to discover loose rock whereever they go. More importantly they'd never climbed on chalk before. Saw them New Years Eve, and I think they mainly boulder and clip bolts now... just because it's not as loose as you feared it might be, doesn't mean it's not loose.
Ahh, well i was more than happy to go a cheval. I neglected to clip the (or a) very loose block on the assumption that if god forbid i did fall the loose block was more than certainly coming with me, in fact it'd have probably gone simply slinging it and on the balance of probabilities i couldn't get any more scared so gear became a forgotten thought. I concur that there didn't appear anything holding that bit of rock up. There were two very old and wobbly knife blades at the very bottom of the arete, that was it for the whole pitch. My seconds climbed a diagonal fissure in the wall cos they said they didnt want to climb the arete for risk of the gross swing, but that seemed loose and hard too and i swear i heard andy higginson cry. I thought doing it that way wa a bit of a cop out, but they still had to do 20 odd foot of a cheval to reach the headland.
We didn't have perfect weather either - firstly unless the swell made the water a metre higher than forecast, I'd cocked the tides up by an hour spent dozing in the fort, which should've been spent rigging the ab. The fucked tides in the solent means it is really hard to do the original start and traverse the whole ridge without getting wet. Mikey R's DWS link up sounds, fun, though it is interesting to note that he is a sea kayaker of no unconsiderable ability (attempting the France to Dorset run, anyone) and he chose to swim between the needles instead of going by boat. Secondly it was raining in the morning and even once it stopped, a freak hail storm hit the route before we got on it. Anyway, the `other start' is called Hot and Cold. I remember some high ball crimping on in situ dodgy flints leading to a crack, which I bridged up on flints. Then a really dodgy run out on vegetation to the ridge. Amazingly no flints broke on me - hence why I thought `more solid than you'd think'.
I was just starting up the first pitch (having waded out kitted up) when the heavens broke for 2 odd hours. We had the coastguard ringing us up to offer a rescue as he'd said already that morning that the weather would be tip top and was obviously feeling guilty. The first pitch was still wet when i led it and having only two ice screws and a tied of piece of flint fluttered my heart to some degree...
Is this the new generation of CUMC climbers? Thin wanted to ab off from their point of rescue, but I insisted on having a closer look, and found the wart hog holes and went for it. I was doing all right keeping in touch with the younger ones there, but then they graduated. (Or was it the old guard, Ru and Stu ;-) did you guys ever do Monster Crack like you said or did you both get happily married and write papers and guidebooks? ;-)). You are on about those from that old eastern city that has their own chalk pits to practise in aren't you- they should've done better! I'll have to find out who that was. Even if it was Cardiff, they've got Ogmore training.
Don't know who it was and bumped into some of them in mile end a few weeks ago and they denied any knowledge. It was the NT in the battery that said they were from CUMC, perhaps it was OUMC. A bit of clever varsity competition. But there's enough rumours going round at the moment to not need me to add to them...
I think you're right, it has changed a lot over the years. It bore no resemblance to the picture on the postcard I bought - the pristine white chalk was replaced by orangey brown rock scars in places. It didn't look like a simple trick of the light. Also, I wasn't sure at which pitch we'd joined the original route, but the guide goes on about this tower in the way, but that'd blatantly long gone.
The NT said there had been a large rockfall 3 years ago which changed the route considerably. The girl that was there was only "aware" of our successful ascent since but obviously there have been others with MR and JL's DWS and more with the two knife blades and obviously your own and parnell's. I hope that was in her ignorance and not because people weren't getting permission because they do grant it if you grovel enough.
As for the grade I'm guessing it's probably even a bit too hard a route to only get TD.
i'd go XS 5a/b (felt like E3 climbing the first and final pitch). or ED if we must.
I'd still recommend it, but only if you like that sort of thing. It's certainly an adventure. If someone kills themselves when I'm not there it's not my fault. Beta may be wrong. You've got to let people go for it, and decide for themselves. Are you planning on doing Old Harry etc. near Swanage or any of the devon ones?
I have some plans, not many down that way, but if i told you any i'd have to kill you. ;-)
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"tied of piece of flint " LOL!
I had a bit of hassle with the national trust because basically they're closed in winter and won't let you through. Ian gave some really helpful advice though, (in my experience famous climbers come over much better via email in general, though I've been to his talks and he just comes over well through all mediums). The NT said no to me so I said no to them.
I know someone from Bristol who's possibly got contacts at Oxford. I never did organise a varsity competition - they didn't sound up for it. To be honest I was fucking up the club enough as it was without having to deal with all that `quarter blue' status bull shit. Plus, who would set problems? Unlike SCUIBL, we couldn't have afforded Zippy. But Foot and Mouth was on, so hey.
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Have fleshed the bare list out a bit.
Brad's Wall - StantonI find the final throw to the slopey top inordinately hard, in part due to my cod-hands (Dupytren's Contracture), My Buddy the Apple - RowtorSo made up to climb this. Had looked at it before Ben did it and thought it would make a very good 8b one day! It is amazing how you can climb through horizontal terrain on total none holds. Pure gritstone magic. Everyone climbing around the grade should have this on their list and Great White - Curbar Had always felt miles away from doing this. One little tweak to a sequence can make all the diffence. One of the season's best days out
Beresina - CuvierEarly start after travel mayhem and no sleep. Got it second go, thanks to the power of much caffeine, Noir Desir - RempartHad always fluffed the last move, so well pleased to finish it off and Eclipse - Cul du ChienStatic. Check me!
Priapism - Blue Scar, Balas - Kilnsey and Powerplay - Yew CogarOnly one week trad climbing all year, but a damn good one.
Pistol Fingers - Long Tor QuarryThis and the Boltest(one of the peaks best at 7c) are class and well worth going to LTQ for., Soft Option - KilnseyThe reputation as a sandbag is well deserved! and GBH - MalhamSo much for the early season quick stamina boost, it took me ages!
Nuit de TempsUndercut mono mmmmm, Les Couilles au Cul 52m 7b+ with runouts up to 7m, exciting!and Le Tresor du ZebraOne of the best 7a+s i've done anywhere, all Gorges Du Tarn
Forest Casual - Black GardenFor the leafy gent. Johnny Brown was sporting a strong look, yessir!, Pistol Fingers - Long Tor Quarry and Fearful Orange - Gardom's
Only an extension of an existing highball, but one of the best things i've ever found I reckon
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would love to wad jonboy for those font ticks. he managed 4 7c's while the rest of us were whinging about the rain. eclipse was done in 100% humidity. ok, actual rain. fight on black is total piss if you're tall-ish. you can miss the first move out. is there a "goals for '07 thread" or do i have to start one..?
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"tied of piece of flint " LOL!
I had a bit of hassle with the national trust because basically they're closed in winter and won't let you through. Ian gave some really helpful advice though, (in my experience famous climbers come over much better via email in general, though I've been to his talks and he just comes over well through all mediums). The NT said no to me so I said no to them.
fair play. probably just depends who you get on the other side of the phone tbh.
I know someone from Bristol who's possibly got contacts at Oxford. I never did organise a varsity competition - they didn't sound up for it. To be honest I was fucking up the club enough as it was without having to deal with all that `quarter blue' status bull shit. Plus, who would set problems? Unlike SCUIBL, we couldn't have afforded Zippy. But Foot and Mouth was on, so hey.
come on paz, climbing must be worth at least half blue status. It aint tiddlywinks or owt...
thread hijack over
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Top three bouldering exploits in the UK would be; Brass Monkey at Stanage because it took lot of effort, West Side Story because it drew a line under 6 years of exasperation and doubt and finally The Gritstone Treaty. I was going to put Spare Rib in but remembered about 'The Treaty' just in time. Fookin' Superb.
Top three abroad: The middle sitter to Gargantoit at Gorge de Houx was highlight of my best ever font trip. Golden Eye at Magic Grades. I didn't know what onsighting at ones limit was until I saw a dense loner slapping his way to glory. It also went some way to easing the pain of me not being able to repeat the things on the Bruno Block that I did the year before.
I want to put Kalorienmonster at Magic Grades in as well even though my high point wasn't the top, but very close to. Is this allowed?
Hardly did any routes but stand out ones are Great Shark Hunt, Swinging Nineties and Rumble in the Jungle. All of a Dorset DWS flava.
Put up one problem at the start of the year. Be Somebody or be Somebody's Fool at Curbar. 7a+ and only ever so slightly eliminate. Get to it.
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Sausage - There's a winter 06/07 bouldering specific ticklist thread, so I reckon there is still room for an all round 07 one.
Somebody - Forgot about the Treaty, could well have gone on my list too.
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Somebody - Forgot about the Treaty, should well have gone on my list too.
That's right.
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That reminds me, you forgot to mention the mighty Stenobloc in your new probs list!
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Seeing mine are pretty obscure, I will indulge you with piccies.
• Top three boulder probs, UK
This one at Back Bowden
(http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/93/02/ChrisClix/1/80.jpg)
Holds Harmless SS at Clova
(http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/93/02/ChrisClix/1/6a.jpg)
SS to eliminate funny thing with shallow pockets, Old Portlethen Boulder
(http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/93/02/ChrisClix/1/81.jpg)
• Top three boulder probs, abroad
This one at Canon (Le Bossu?)
(http://www.aberdeenclimbing.org.uk/d/771-2/Chris+on+Le+Bossu+at+Rocher+Canon.JPG)
This one at Isatis
(http://www.aberdeenclimbing.org.uk/d/621-2/CRW_4218.jpg)
This one at Rocklands
(http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/93/02/ChrisClix/1/70.jpg)
• Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Talisman, Cairngorms
Route II, Diabaig
Birthday Treat, Clashrodney
• Top three sport routes UK
None, didn't clip a bolt here last year. Going to try and change that this year.
• Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Staircase, Table Mountain (still awesome after all these years)
Couple of clip ups at Silvermine Cape Town
• Top three new route/prob put up
Holds Harmless SS, Glen Clova as above.
Funny Thing with Shallow Pockets, Old Portlethen (probably FA?)
Traverse at Cedarberg
(http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/93/02/ChrisClix/1/77.jpg)
I'm adding a top three non climbing "routes"
A route down the untracked snow (calling it powder would be unfair) on the back side of Praz de Lys on 3rd Jan; me my lass and my bruv.
The route from Beacon Isle to Robberg and back by Sea kayak in South Africa. Dolphins to the left of me, seals to the right.
The route down the front of a great wave at Stonehaven on a Thursday evening in October. After a summer of waiting, what is now my local break finally delivered, under a gorgeous vivid red sunset.
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I've just realised that having visited Castle Inn Quarry, The Cornice, The Gallery, The Gap, Horseshoe, Smalldale, and somewhat unwillingly several crags at Portland, I've done a fair bit of UK sport climbing (in proportion to it's lack of quality) this year. So to pick some arbitrarily top routes:
Route 2, Castle Inn Quarry
Trad Free World, Portland
Mr Love Pants, Smalldale
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home: shit & blind date, both long term projects sent 06
away: clin d'oil, first 7th grade flash in the forest (I know its a soft touch!) and foo fighter sent with much finger pain due to sore skin. good to tick another 7c in magic grades (soft touch again I know!!!)
whats the rest about? ???
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My top three boulder probs in UK...Well Staffordshire:
S+M, s/s with the left-hand exit @ Newstones
Stall arete @ Gib Torr
Staffordshire Flyer @ Doxeys Pool
And all within about 2.5 miles of each other!
:thumbsup:
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Top 3 UK Bouldering: Screaming Slave RH - Woodwell; Joe's Arete - Roaches; Fast Cars - Porth Ysgo
Top 3 UK Trad: Sifta's quid inside route (feet first!) - Roaches; Commander Energy - Roaches; Teaser - Holyhead mountain
Didn't get anything done abroad or sport wise :S
Top 32* FA: Make it snappy - Frodsham; GALTS undercuts eliminate - Woodwell;
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Sifta's quid inside route (feet first!) - Roaches;
That sounds terrifying. I'm struggling to comprehend how you'd go about a feet first ascent.
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Sifta's quid inside route (feet first!)
Crikey.
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Seeing mine are pretty obscure, I will indulge you with piccies.
• Top three boulder probs, UK
This one at Back Bowden
(http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/93/02/ChrisClix/1/80.jpg)
Where at Back Bowden is that, does it correspond to one of the guide problems? How difficult is it?
Despite often being in the area, and it having reputation as the crag to visit in wet and windy weather I have only bouldered once at Back Bowden (and that's only if you can call pissing around on the Hazelrigg Wall before leaving for "front" Bowden bouldering). I realise that I should have given it more of a go (rather than retreating to the Sunderland Wall) but the mojo for a return has always been strangely lacking. Perhaps, in true puerile-ticker's style, because the only problem there anyone has ever recommended is the Pockets Traverse and that's far too hard for a punter like me (there are the starts to a few trad routes I guess, but I would prefer to save those for onsight leads... although there's little chance of that happeniing anytime soon).
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Been a good year - what with moving to Sheffield and coming back to climbing after a year off. Have been to lots of new places, climbed lots of new things and met lots of new people. Enjoyed being almost exclusively an outdoor climber during the grit season (the stuff of dreams for a boulderer once confined to Norwich). Enjoyed the lime and the many chilled sessions at the cemetery boulder/pub. Enjoyed going to font for the first time (and verily, it was heaven). Recently, it has rained too much, but the Works has opened, so hey...
* Top three boulder probs, UK
Deliverance - discovering that the high smear really does work, and throwing in a gleeful victory lap. Usually I love to dyno, but this is such a brilliant move that I don't ever want to leap past the best bit. Climbed in the half hour of dry weather snatched from the rain, just as dusk settled in, and after my second of three hitched lifts that day, questing for dry rock.
Right Hand Hank - after having three goes every night for a week, finally cruising to the top in the dark and being very happy about it. Fingery, balancy, technical - it really is very good.
Dan's Leaping Problem - during a warm day at Burbage South, giving up on friction, and having lots of fun. Have posted about this problem before, but it really is great. On the pointy boulder below the tank, on the downward face, stand on the right hand ledge and bound to the left (no hands) via a smaller intermediate. Harder than it looks - maybe 7a+. If you are at Burbage South, try it!
* Top three boulder probs, abroad
Having only climbed abroad for a week, I haven't done that many. But racing around font trying to do as many 7's as possible (not that many) was brilliant fun. Of those, Impasse du Hasard at Cuisiniere was the best, with Hyperplomb and Epee the runner ups.
* Top three new route/prob put up
Only did two last year. Still so many projects in lancs that I'm not strong enough for. But the two I did were both good -
He's so Derick - Laurencefield - 7a+ - (say it out loud and chortle/wince). Good fun.
Lifeline sitstart - Brownstones - 7a+ - Was surprised how good this was, as I'd previously dismissed it. Straight up from fat undercuts into pockets and the sidepull. Tricky and fingery, another nice addition to the Brownstones circuit.
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He's so Derick - Laurencefield - 7a+ - (say it out loud and chortle/wince). Good fun.
Oh I see. At first I thought it must be Derrick May related ryhming slang
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Where at Back Bowden is that, does it correspond to one of the guide problems? How difficult is it?
It's on the left side of the furthest left of the bouders in front of the scary slab. It's normally a bit damp underfoot, but OK with a big pad. It's not hard, probably about V1 (dunno about Northumberland Grade or exact location, not got guide handy, can check tonight) but moves are fantastic and rock is immaculate. The runnel thing just left is good value too (quality thumb sprags) and theres a nice eliminate inbetween.
That group of boulders probably has a half dozen or so good probs, including a lovely arete, but the rest is not so great. We only went after getting blown off our feet at Bowden Doors.
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cheers, not the all-weather project I was hoping for but always nice to get a recommendation. I suspect that my initial thoughts re Back Bowden were correct: best saved for that hardcore who enjoy (and can actually do) eliminates on V10ish traverses. Not that I really need any new projects for the list. I would be best off just committing myself to the existing ones - just a little matter of beta, motivation, and perhaps somehow obtaining something resembling basic upperbody strength!
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cheers, not the all-weather project I was hoping for but always nice to get a recommendation. I suspect that my initial thoughts re Back Bowden were correct: best saved for that hardcore who enjoy (and can actually do) eliminates on V10ish traverses. Not that I really need any new projects for the list. I would be best off just committing myself to the existing ones - just a little matter of beta, motivation, and perhaps somehow obtaining something resembling basic upperbody strength!
The problems through the roof that you mentioned as the start of routes before are really pretty good (and reachy too), but I guess if you're getting all ethical and want to save them, then that's fair enough!
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all those E1 soloy routes with 5c problem roof starts at back bowden are brilliant, and if you want proper bouldering there are a couple of excellent problems over left of pockets traverse. the roof coes into a sort of corner at the back, theres a coupld of problems close together finishing at the same set of jugs on the lip. One seems to go to a crescent shaped undercut then out to the jugs via a nubbin (i not done this) and the one just left kinda starts on jugs, big foot-off move into a good backhand flake in the roof, some toehooking in the aforementioned crescent undercut of the previous problem to matck this good hold, then finish with some footlessing to the jugs. one of the best problems i've ever done quite honestly. and that's saying something cos i;ve climbed a bell hagg a bit.
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if you climb at moderate grades, I reckon it's best for a few hours of paly, either as an end of day job, a summer evening or if you beat the retreat from BowDoors.
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Cheers SA Chris and dave - I have come to the conclusion that my proud ethical stance (read: laziness) should come to an end the next time the weather's a bit wet! I really ought to visit new ground and am a little embarassed at my generally increasing willingness to decamp to the wall at the slightest excuse (besides I'm a lot better at roof-work than I was at my previous visit).
Three reasonably enjoyable festive sessions spent under Brimham's Joker's Wall and Ilkley's Calf showed me what can be done in even the grottiest of weather. That said, I still feel destroyed from the steepness and godawful holds of those places! And, I have had some truly miserable, lonely days determinedly sticking out shit conditions essentially to justify the time spent travelling.
Hey ho... off-topic, but now I've finally done Slapstick Arete I don't suppose you (or anyone else) have got any cunning tips for:
- the LHS horn problem at Caley (other than be really strong and dynamic - is there some crafty heel-hook or sequence that I couldn't see?).
- Ben's Groove at Caley
- Layby arete, Slipstones (the dedicated beta thread for that dried up)
- frankly any hard-won killer beta that might make the difference for V7/8ish stuff .
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if you climb at moderate grades
who do you think you are, intimating that I'm MODERATE. I'm shit I'll have you know!
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- the LHS horn problem at Caley (other than be really strong and dynamic - is there some crafty heel-hook or sequence that I couldn't see?).
I remember getting a toe-hook somewhere on it that stops you swinging madly... can't quite remember exactly... not that I did it of course!
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Moose don't write Back Bowden off just yet, right of Hazelrig wall is another huge roof with imaculate rock, independant roof problems from V3 to V6 perma dry and all classics, also on the boulder in front of Outwardbound is a lip traverse, V5 really worthwhile, as mentioned the burly roof problems below the main BB roof are all outstanding V2 - V7, when the wind blows it's a saving grace.
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if you climb at moderate grades
who do you think you are, intimating that I'm MODERATE. I'm shit I'll have you know!
Mentioning V7/8 says otherwise. By my standards anyway.
some of my best days out have ben in marginal weather, makes it all the more satisfying grasping gems from the mouth of the storm.
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Mentioning V7/8 says otherwise. By my standards anyway.
My few successes at V7 have all been after seiges that make the 100 Years War look like a happy slapping!
I agree that dodgy conditions and perhaps a bit of initial hopelessness often make for the best days. Getting Slapstick Arete at Caley was a recent example for me: a grim day when almost everything was too damp to contemplate and there was noone else bouldering. Despite that I managed one of my projects and even the way it rained immediately afterwards seemed right: telling me to go home, chill, and not fuck myself up further because I had been, seen and conquerred!
Another treasured day was at Shipley: travelling hungover from Huddersfield I got completely lost in central Bradford and arrived to a drizzley crag in a complete state after around 2 hours of driving in circles. Seized by a violent deathwish I threw myself at an obviously seeping Millstone, a problem I had always chickened out from in good conditions. Somehow, after a few fraught moments, I managed to topout without crippling myself and then, psyched out of my tiny mind and encouraged by an oubreak of sunshine, managed a fairly damp Red Baron in very short order... again despite having failed miserably on previous occasions in mint conditions when I hadn't been on the verge of vomiting.
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Sharkey's right, there are some great problems on the right side of Back Bowden. Dave is also right about the roof starts to the E1s etc (topping out is only about VS) - all top problems. Seek and you shall not be disappointed.
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Hey ho... off-topic, but now I've finally done Slapstick Arete I don't suppose you (or anyone else) have got any cunning tips for:
- the LHS horn problem at Caley (other than be really strong and dynamic - is there some crafty heel-hook or sequence that I couldn't see?).
moose
my beta for this...
LH cups the starting boss, RH on some okish ripples adjacent to LH, LF toe hooks low near the base of the boulder / wherever feels good for you, RF goes in a small pocket... slap up with your right hand to the next set of holds, get the high 'dish' part of the sloper then match.. get 'em as good as you can.. the crux is next.. release your toe hook, hold the swing and put your LF on a small flat hold just beneath the starting handholds.. this last part all feels very tensiony and takes some control.. next, with your LF on the aforementioned hold, slap again with your RH to the next obvious hold/ sloper.. stick this.. LF stays where it was, (RF comes off then dabs onto a pebble somewhere to help with final throw..) .. next, with the LH kept low, slap again with the RH for the top / apex of the arete.. I find I can stick the arete about six inches below the top.. from here you can just slap again into the good jugs.. job done..
before I sussed the above sequence I used to do this prob heel-hooking, udging, thrutching and generally gasping for air.. with me 'new' improved sequence I find it just takes a bit of faith when you release the toe hook and a bit of committment for the final move..
absolute classic though, and one of my favourite problems anywhere.. in fact the whole circuit beneath the sugarloaf is all pretty stellar IMHO
can also recommend..
the prob to the immediate left of mr smooth.. prob 4, boulder 19 ( all numbers as in the current guide..) but do it from a standing start
pine arete from sitting.. prob 3, boulder 21..
flapjack traverse from L-R, prob 1, boulder 23..
hope this helps
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my best of '06..
after such a long lay off, 2006 was pretty much about filling in a few gaps; my faves would be...
uk probs: blockbuster 7b+, houdini 7b+, full green traverse 7a+,
abroad: soulslinger v8/9 (the buttermilks), disco diva v8 (the happys), tendons give v4 (camp four)...
new lines: adbuster v6 (woodhouse).. culturejammer v5 (woodhouse).. both eliminates.. tho I should double check with Pantontino to find out if they've been done before...
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I think i need to get out more in 07 - spread my wings, get a harness and rope...
* Top three boulder probs, UK
Deliverence, Brad Pit, David (Mother Cap)
* Top three boulder probs, abroad
Only had two days in Font - Mur Lombard being the pick of the trip
* Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None
* Top three sport routes UK
None
* Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None
* Top three new route/prob put up
None
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Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.
What a great name. Is there a background?
Sorry, missed this one.
OK. A of U C is: In full Thai sunlight from dawn till dusk (no shade ever); rounded and poor gritty granite holds; when the sun drops the water rises to prevent access in reasonable temps and vice versa. Beaut moves, a pretty line that happens to be shafted by it's position and a great way to induce power-strops on a morning or nightly basis.
Trying to climb it was like stroking a gorgeous kitten that bites every time you touch, but for some reason you still keep wanting to touch it, and always get bitten. A total chore of a problem included only for the memorable shenanigans it induced.
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uk probs: houdini 7b+ - forgotten about that beauty. Awkward finish, or what!
new lines: adbuster v6 (woodhouse).. culturejammer v5 (woodhouse).. both eliminates.. tho I should double check with Pantontino to find out if they've been done before...
The only place I ever used to do eliminates was underneath Clingen, and that was over 10 years ago. Where and what are your new creations?
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uk probs: houdini 7b+ - forgotten about that beauty. Awkward finish, or what!
The only place I ever used to do eliminates was underneath Clingen, and that was over 10 years ago. Where and what are your new creations?
Houdini is awesome isn't it.. and man that finish is awkward! in some ways the hardest bit! I've never been able to do it with any grace at all.. always end up humping the rock!! first time I did this I thought its was a solid V9/ 7c... though sussed an easier start recently so maybe 7b+ wicked prob whatever...
as for the new probs..
a couple on clingen, one is a sit down start to the arete, slapping up the arete.. rather than pressing into the pocket as in prob 12 in the guide.. new prob starts with LH on hold 43, RH cups the arete at the base then slap up with the right to 34.. cool moves.. though I have a feeling this has been done? too good too have been missed I think.. theres an even lower start coming into this from the polished chipped holds at the start of twin cracks.. reminds me of the fridge at brimham, though I haven't linked this so it remains a project.. really green up there recently..
the others are all on cave buttress, a few new variants on there, all pretty good quality.. adbuster starts in the back of the cave, as for most of the 'classic' probs, then trends rightwards using the small / poor crimps right on the lip, then rocks onto the rh wall using a small pocket, (the slots out), a good prob which I dont think's been done.. theres a version that trends leftwards too which is slightly easier..
was hoping to send you a topo this weekend but have just managed to delete the pics whilst transferring 'em from my old mac.. will sort out a new one out this week..
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- Top three boulder probs, UK
Mono pocket roof problem, Churnet Valley
Gorilla, Dumbarton
Anything at the Sheep Pen Boulders
I must be getting old as I've only just remember I went to Porth Ysgo this year! So that list should read more like:
- Top three boulder probs, UK
Mono pocket roof problem, Churnet Valley
Spaz Arete, Porth Ysgo or Unmarked Grave, Porth Ysgo
Dumby in general
BTW I didn't do any eliminates on Clingen this year, but I did lead Clingen (after much speculation about the gear, not helped by the blatant LIES in the Yorkshire Guide). Very fine route too.
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- Top three boulder probs, UK
Only did one (direct to Lttle Extra) but such is my weakness even this represented an improvement
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Nope
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Made a conscious decision to not climb trad this year but still managed some longstanding ticks, none of which disappointed; Dream\Liberator and Kafoozalem at Bosi and Ichabod at Scafell East, not the best route but I'd been after climbing on the East Buttress for about 18 years
Top three sport routes UK
Mescalito, New Dawn and Obsession (I spent some time at Malham this year!). It was so nearly so much better, one more move!
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Got to add my voice to jonboy's, Tresor de Zebra is as good as it gets for the grade followed by any other two from the Tarn (maybe Planete Causse), also went to Osp but there was nothing there to touch the Tarn
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Yeah Planet Causse is amazing. So sustained, not the steady warm-up I was expecting, but awesome!
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Here's my list. Some what limited by only climing on Peak limestone /grit but mostly Switzerland.
top 3, no 4 OK 5 uk boulder
Pistol Whip (7b+ Almscliffe) - what a great line
Full Power (8a Gardoms) - always good to get a Moffat tick
Flat World ss (7c+ Baslow)
Brad's Wall (7c) - what an effort
top 3 (OK 4, no 5, no 6!) boulder abroad
Never Ending Story II (8a Magic Wood) - simply fantastic moves
Impasse du Hazard (7a+ Cusiniere)
Mallonge (7c Brione)
Octopussy (8a Magic Wood)
La Peche (7a Cresciano) - extreme mantel, but no Beast!
La Pelle (8a Cresciano) - old nemesis
top 3 sport
Kali Yuga (8b Two Tier) - amazing
Gonads (8a+ Two tier) - nice mono
Maximum (7c+ Mallham) - such big holds
top 3 trad / solo
Business As Usual (E5 6B OSS)
My Apple (7b+ Rowtor) - will count this as a route
top 3 routes abroad
no route climbinga broad for me this year
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Gonads (8a+ Two tier) - nice mono
Genious
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UK Boulders
xxxx Bowderstone 8a
Lou Ferrino 7c+
Joker 8a
Wasnt in britain much in '06
top 5 abroad
Dark Waters 8a+ Colorado Amazing boulder best ive done by far
Bush Pilot 8a Colorado amazing perfect
Le tombeau 7c+ Tagasonne brilliant 2 moves in massive roof
Psoass mole 8a+ Targasonne amazing
Black ice 7c+ Colorado
Ive done a lot of amazing quality blocs this year with my move to usa. very lucky.
sport uk
only did one with doylo
eat the rich at the water cum jolly, nothing special to be honest. the inch test looks about v13 though
Top trad
havnt done any dont think last year. now that i think about it. i must have done one, just cant remember.
Top sport abroad
Freaks Colorado 8b.
warm up clear creek 5c
thats it.
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top three uk:
- one good attempt on brad pit
- a very smooth flash of a problem thats left of bentleys gonna sort it out, that rises from left to right on positive edges
- a quick ascent of demon wall roof and the following flash of steves wall and the following wine and whiskey night
top three abroad:
- FA of a stunning line at la baleine, annot
- quick ascent of one problem in cresciano i dunno the name (cut my finger badly)
- doesnt get to my mind, so prolly does not exist
no trad no spurt
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Impasse du Hazard (7a+ Cusiniere)
Glad someone else rated this as well. Brilliant problem.
Almost forgot, I did do some trad, I just can't remember what it was. It was fantastic though -
The Spiral Route? - diff? - on that limestone cliff over the road from Wetton Mill - jump the fence (is there another way?), scramble through the brambles and in a sort of cave you'll find an upwards leading spiral tube. Scramble up and round and it eventually finishes at a large window halfway up the cliff. Turn around and slither down again...
Think it's in a guidebook, there are some old threads there too. Anyone know more?
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I know someone who would be very interested in that, if it is described in a guide please let me know.
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First years bouldering outdoors...
Best boulder problems UK
Worldline (V8) - Earl crag
Steve's Wall (V7) - Almscliff
Horror Arete (V5) - Bridestones
Abroad (Well just Font :shrug:)
Le Mouton a 5 Pattes, (7a) - Cuisiniere
La Couer (7a) - Elephant (did not complete)
Mary rose (6a)
I am gonna get lynched for forgetting the correct names of those places in Font I am sure :guilty:
I did one trad route at frogatt, dabbled with sports routes in Llanberis and Llanymenoch, but mainly it was a year of bouldering and trying to learn how to climb outdoors. Hopefully this year will see some more choices for best foreign bouldering and have some climbs to choose for best routes.
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I know someone who would be very interested in that, if it is described in a guide please let me know.
Sorry, I don't really know the guidebook details. Drop (woz) a pm, he'll know more, or his dad will.
Think it's possibly on the cliff to the right in this photo:
(http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-manifold-east_midlands-places-peakdistrict-gallery_picture)
Park at Wetton Mill, near cafe.
http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?client=public&GridE=-1.83460&GridN=53.09480&lon=-1.83460&lat=53.09480&search_result=Wetton%2C%20Staffordshire&db=freegaz&lang=&keepicon=true&place=Wetton%2C%20Staffordshire&pc=&advanced=&client=public&addr2=&quicksearch=wetton&addr3=&scale=100000&addr1=
Cross road, follow track to the left, through a field or two. After a couple of minutes you get to a wire fence, with the cliff behind. Jump fence and wade over/through vegetation get to bottom of crag. Aim for the middle. Route is obvious.
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I have a feeling that is in On Peak Rock...
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Ossum's Cave? The only pic I can find is this rather crap one.
(http://www.megalithic.org.uk/megp/gallery/gallery/England/derbyshire/XOssomsCave01.jpg)
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Worldline (V8) - Earl crag
What's this? Name doesn't ring a bell.
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It's at Queen's Crag, Northumberland. http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/queens_worldline2.htm
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Ah yeah I remember that, not Earl crag though, but another member of the crag nobility.
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Ossum's Cave? The only pic I can find is this rather crap one.
(http://www.megalithic.org.uk/megp/gallery/gallery/England/derbyshire/XOssomsCave01.jpg)
That's the badger. Ossam's crag - http://www.climbingcrags.co.uk/ViewCrag.aspx?id=678
Developed in 1900, with 15 routes, so must be in a guidebook somewhere. Restrictions from March to end of June due to nesting Peregrines.
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I can't believe I forgot that one in my trad section ;D Route/scramble of the year for sure. Probably very interesting to geology/nature types as well - well worth stopping off at.
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Peak Limestone South... In which case the route you did (going by the description) was probably The Chimney, a mere Moderate - no big numbers for you boyo :P
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Yeah I meant Queens crag :oops:, got mixed up with the other north facing wet, miserable and cold crag with a load of problems I would love to try. Sodding weather.
Worldline is an amazing problem though.
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UK Boulders
xxxx Bowderstone 8a
Lou Ferrino 7c+
Joker 8a
Wasnt in britain much in '06
top 5 abroad
Dark Waters 8a+ Colorado Amazing boulder best ive done by far
Bush Pilot 8a Colorado amazing perfect
Le tombeau 7c+ Tagasonne brilliant 2 moves in massive roof
Psoass mole 8a+ Targasonne amazing
Black ice 7c+ Colorado
quite a year mate, you`ll be pleased to know at least 80% of hard problems in hueco r yor style, i fully expect yor ticklist to dismay me. hav fun :)
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- the LHS horn problem at Caley (other than be really strong and dynamic - is there some crafty heel-hook or sequence that I couldn't see?).
moose
my beta for this...
LH cups the starting boss, RH on some okish ripples adjacent to LH, LF toe hooks low near the base of the boulder / wherever feels good for you, RF goes in a small pocket... slap up with your right hand to the next set of holds, get the high 'dish' part of the sloper then match.. get 'em as good as you can.. the crux is next.. release your toe hook, hold the swing and put your LF on a small flat hold just beneath the starting handholds.. this last part all feels very tensiony and takes some control.. next, with your LF on the aforementioned hold, slap again with your RH to the next obvious hold/ sloper.. stick this.. LF stays where it was, (RF comes off then dabs onto a pebble somewhere to help with final throw..) .. next, with the LH kept low, slap again with the RH for the top / apex of the arete.. I find I can stick the arete about six inches below the top.. from here you can just slap again into the good jugs.. job done..
Did this on saturday: absolutely fantastic problem - precision burliness and technical thuggery. Completely made my day as any kind of dynamic slapping is something I am really crap at. That said it came close to destroying my day too - fell off whilst doing the final lunge at least 6 times over the course of almost four hours of solidly active whittling (christ I was tired that night). Resulted in one quite spectacular public tantrum of completely incoherent swearing... embarassing but seemed to help :-[
So thanks for the beta - though congenital weakness meant I had to match on the hold below the apex (LF heel-hooking near starting holds) and generally spend a lot of time tenaciously adjusting on poor holds rather than just getting on with it. Crux for me was probably believing I could get my left foot on that flattie whilst still hanging the slopers!
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Bon effort moose... Didn't clean off much chalk though :P
I dangled around on it on Sunday, conditions were A1 but my bizarre method was getting me nowhere. And now I have no skin. Roll on Wednesday!
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The chalk wasn't all mine... though I can't really claim any high ground - I guess I should have been a bit more considerate. I think I might have seen you walking along the main path away from the crag area - around 4pm on saturday? I was having a look at what I think is Pedestal arete and completely failing to even pull onto the standing start!
If it helps my ridiculously long-winded sequence/beta for the horn LHS was:
- start LH on boss, RH on crimpy lip bit, RF in pocket.
- Pull up onto arete: really get your body into it using a low LF heelhook and slap RH onto best bit of sloper (a dishy bit fairly low down?),
- Then (and here's the knacky bit) to match the LH on the sloper you have to "sag" your body-weight directly under the RH whilst converting the LF into a toehook. Immediately then bump the RH up a few inches to a bit of the sloper that is better for laying away from - more on the lip where from below there appears to be a "dip".
- Bring the LF onto the flat foothold (simultaneously with this I fractionally readjust LH to the dishy part of the sloper vacated by the RH to facillitate better "laying away" from).
- Hoick up and pop RH to good obvious hold (remember to use your thumb!), dab RF onto flat foothold whilst removing the LF and replacing it as a heel hook near starting holds.
- I then crossed through LH to match (above RH), fully layed away from the holds (LF heel hooking top, RF either still on flatty or dangling) and lunged for the top.
I tried missing out various steps in the interest of efficiency (especially the readjustments on the sloper) but had no luck - this seemed to be the "minimal beef" path for me. Good luck hope it helps...
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I was having a look at what I think is Pedestal arete and completely failing to even pull onto the standing start!
Pulling in to the starting right hand hold is by far the hardest part. I crimp the pebble, some people use the little sloper.
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Good luck hope it helps...
Cheers for the beta, it seems to make a lot of sense, so I'll give it a try tomorrow afternoon.
I think I might have seen you walking along the main path away from the crag area - around 4pm on saturday?
I was up at roadside all of saturday, so I don't think it was me...
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2006 resulted in 3 failed comebacks off the couch. none due to injury ;)
trip to sumatra and finding 4 big caves next to morroccos best waves was good though...
if anyone wants new hard problems and a great surf on the same trip?? let me know and i'll give details and pics...
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Planning a Maroc trip for later in the year, love to know details.