11

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy moles on Today at 06:02:37 pm »

Bit of an absurd comparison to make, was what I was getting at. At least apples and oranges are both similarly-sized spherical fruit.

Apologies, re-reading your post I agree with the general point.

Though my impression is that hard E-grades are not always graded for the hypothetical on-sight attempt - listening to what various people climbing those routes have said or written, it doesn't always seem to be a consideration. In Dave Mac's recent-ish video on how he grades routes, for example, he didn't even touch on it.

12

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by monkoffunk on Today at 05:58:10 pm »

M - Yoga
T - Yoga
W - Yoga
T - 5k run. Been a little lax about keeping this regular. First in just under a month. Felt so good in evening after.
F - Elbow physio exercises. Yoga.
S - Nothing.
S - Yoga

Basically a rest week. Not sure when I’ll get chance to get out again, but hopefully do some more training this week.

13

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 05:37:24 pm »

Bit of an absurd comparison to make, was what I was getting at. At least apples and oranges are both similarly-sized spherical fruit.

14

music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by Oldmanmatt on Today at 05:35:59 pm »

I am certain, that (barring some undisclosed mental health issues) the writers of the new season of Dr Who, are on Acid.

Still, made me smile.

15

shootin' the shit / Re: U-S-A! The American Politics Thread.

« Last post by Bradders on Today at 05:28:28 pm »

Would be really nice to have some context to that. Anyone have a video of it?

16

music, art and culture / Re: The right to counter-protest

« Last post by stone on Today at 04:52:24 pm »

I've just heard a really interesting BBC R4 program where Anwar Akhtar interviews (amongst others) protestors and counter-protestors in Leeds University. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001zk1s

17

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy moles on Today at 04:52:22 pm »

Leading to the reductio ad absurdum that WSS is harder than Right Wall because it takes most people a few more goes.

That's hardly ad absurdum, WSS is much harder than Right Wall! It's not just 'a few more goes', there are loads of climbers who would onsight Right Wall but wouldn't get up WSS after a multi session siege. And yes, the same is true in reverse, but only for boulderers who don't actually climb trad.

Not that this matters, because WSS isn't graded E4 any more.

18

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Duncan Disorderly on Today at 04:35:19 pm »

What's the fucking point... Club

M: Paddling in't lakes - fun.
T: Sheaf bloc - Tried hard, did all traverse moves, now feels only marginally impossible...
W: Matterhorn Ridge with the GF - Brilliant post work adventure climbing - loose, easy and bugger all decent gear... Mmmmm 
T: Shoulder kicked off! Not happy at all.
F: Shoulder and hip kicking off - managed to get a last minute quack appointment - hip pain is almost unbearable! Like someone is sticking a red hot poker into my groin!
S: Shoulder seems back to normal - hip felt like murder! Sat in a hot tub under the stars and drank cocktails...
S: Hungover.

All seems to have gone south recently - no idea what the issue with the hip is, always been tight but seems to have stepped up a gear with random bouts of agonizing pain. Thankfully ROM isn't affected and standing up actually helps... Got a physio appt now so am going to push for a scan... All this is going to be after Verdon next week though so I've got a full bag of Ibuprofen and Naproxen and will dose meself up before abbing into owt and hope for the best... Arse! 

19

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Nibile on Today at 04:13:34 pm »

Tue - AM as usual.
...Board fitness increased by 100%, this inevitably means that problems' difficulty must have decreased by 100%, because the glass is always, always half empty.

Hah!

Remind me, what's the usual AM routine? Still committed to the no rest days protocol?

Hey Duma!
Yes, more or less I'm still trying to do something every day, it's as much a mental effort as it is a way to factor in some extra work, in the long run the small micro sessions and the consequent caloric consumption (albeit little), are something.
The usual AM session consists of a set of goblet squat and press, a set of dumbbells thruster and a set of pull ups, more or less back to back. Some days I go double, if I plan to just fingerboard in the evening (but I must admit that I almost never just fingerboard in the evening...). When I started I was also doing a set of ab-wheel, but I found that it wasn't very good for my posture (I have posterior pelvic tilt).
Cheers!

20

shootin' the shit / Re: U-S-A! The American Politics Thread.

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 03:50:55 pm »

A reluctant resurrection, but wtaf

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/article/2024/may/12/trump-rally-speech-hannibal-lecter