UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: hobblingfool on October 24, 2012, 01:16:27 pm
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Tomoko Ogawa interview up on UKC now http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550) in the interview she said:
“I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.” :strongbench:
Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like a recipe for tendon/pulley injuries to me but maybe I’m wrong?
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Tomoko Ogawa interview up on UKC now http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550) in the interview she said:
“I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.” :strongbench:
Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like a recipe for tendon/pulley injuries to me but maybe I’m wrong?
See here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,20967.msg380960.html#msg380960)
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I have tried that open to crimp swap. For some reason I found I could coordinate the transition with both hands and could only change one. I guess there are benefits for fast explosive climbing where you deadpoint a hold open and quickly turn it into a crimp but I guess that chance of injury is very high!
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I have tried that open to crimp swap. For some reason I found I could coordinate the transition with both hands and could only change one. I guess there are benefits for fast explosive climbing where you deadpoint a hold open and quickly turn it into a crimp but I guess that chance of injury is very high!
I've never considered training this, but think that although you would probably be right that it's risky; if it's something you ever do at the crag, it's worth training in a very limited and controlled way.
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I tried it once and couldn't do it at all!
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Rich, I guess it would be much harder for tall people with long fingers. The distance to move the joint 1/n pi radians (where n is probably in the range 0.5 to 1 depending on how hard you are boning) would be much greater for a longer phalanx length leading to greater moment force needed.
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Which one of you has the longer phalanx? John? Rich?
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Rich has a longer phalanx but mine is thicker.
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Might try and give it another go once the weather shits out properly. Thinking 1 foot on to start with and build up to it slowly.
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You're going to put one foot of your phalanx on an edge?
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you can alternate hands whilst rather than trying to crank both up at the same time, or try doing it on a campus board, moving from 1st to 4th rung with rh (say) and changing it to a crimp or half crimp before trying to match or pull through.
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Seems sensible if you're at a high enough level. On bouldering films it's pretty common to see the wads grab something open handed and flick it to a crimp before campusing off it to the next micro-edge.
Better to carefully practice in a controlled environment I guess...
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My fingers ache at the thought of it.
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Might try and give it another go once the weather shits out properly. Thinking 1 foot on to start with and build up to it slowly.
A pulley and counter weight would be better
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Don't we all do this anyway?
Normally when I go for a hold I grab it open handed - and if its marginal I wind it in to make a crimp...
How often do you go for a hold straight away crimped? Dont think I ever do...
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Don't we all do this anyway?
Normally when I go for a hold I grab it open handed - and if its marginal I wind it in to make a crimp...
How often do you go for a hold straight away crimped? Dont think I ever do...
You're probably correct, but that doesn't mean that training it is entirely without benefit.
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It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly- being able to close up at full extension could be the difference between the send and the fail...
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I don't think tomtom was suggesting training such movement wouldn't have any benefit.
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It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly
In that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial? If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp!
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It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly
In that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial? If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp!
Fucksticks this is getting shit.
Of course it would help. If you can build up to doing this exercise footless, then you literally are doing a finger pull up when you close up from open to half or full crimp
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Ah I forgot the ;) ;D ;)
It is obviously a useful exercise, and one than is terrifying, all I can think of when I've tried it is the poor pulleys handling the bowing tendons!
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Ah I forgot the ;) ;D ;)
It is obviously a useful exercise, and one than is terrifying, all I can think of when I've tried it is the poor pulleys handling the bowing tendons!
:oops: it must be that time of the month, I'm oversensitive
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Someone told me about 4yrs ago this was how earl trained and it was really beneficial. I could do it first go for ages, I don't want or need medals I thought it was a waste of time and never did it again
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Someone told me about 4yrs ago this was how earl trained and it was really beneficial. I could do it first go for ages, I don't want or need medals I thought it was a waste of time and never did it again
you can do a one-handed finger pull up :bow:
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Unkle Micky told me it was on one arm 2mins ago rodma, this was never disclosed to me! Did wonder what all the fuss was about.
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It's easy to do this by kipping but much harder static. Probably about 7B+?
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:w00t: I can't even hang a crimp one handed, much less roll from open into closed.
are those guys really that strong?
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I'd wager it's a fair step beyond 7B+ strength to do 1 armed open to crimp finger pullups!
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:w00t: I can't even hang a crimp one handed, much less roll from open into closed.
are those guys really that strong?
For a demonstation of how strong Micky Page is see him in Life On Hold (https://vimeo.com/31326082) (free too, nice one Nick :clap2: )
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Sasquatch, no these guys aren't really that strong, not as we're being led to believe. After a bit of digging it was done by Jumping into a big edge, not gonna call it kipping cos it sounds ridiculous, still very impressive but not the myth that we're being sold
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This girl down the Foundry last night was doing multiple open-crimp switches (4 or 5) with feet on, then resting a bit and repeating.
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Sasquatch, no these guys aren't really that strong, not as we're being led to believe. After a bit of digging it was done by Jumping into a big edge, not gonna call it kipping cos it sounds ridiculous, still very impressive but not the myth that we're being sold
Which guys :shrug:
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Well only one guy has been mentioned to be fair. Guys who I could think of off top of my head to do this static, poss u rodma, tim palmer, Moger in his prime, Malc, parsons, anyone that weighs less than 8 stone doesnt count in anything. not Micky, ned, dan, mike, can't think of any other good climbers, not that ure included in that category rodma ;)
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Well only one guy has been mentioned to be fair. Guys who I could think of off top of my head to do this static, poss u rodma, tim palmer, Moger in his prime, Malc, parsons, anyone that weighs less than 8 stone doesnt count in anything. not Micky, ned, dan, mike, can't think of any other good climbers, not that ure included in that category rodma ;)
do you mean douglas?
I can't touch it, but it is my ultimate training goal along with one hand flick between small rungs, but i fear these may be pipe dreams for me. It won't stop me from trying though ;D
I know p-rob has done it, but I'm assuming by your sub 8stone comment that he doesn't count (I'll never be that light)
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No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier
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I don't know who douglas is either, but he claims it is 7b+, so I'm assuming he finds it a piece of piss.
Why would anyone just want to go climbing, that doesn't make any sense :P
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No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier
You're friends with a guy that strong? That must be so awesome. How come you're always so reticent about it?
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No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier
You're friends with a guy that strong? That must be so awesome. How come you're always so reticent about it?
who shat in your coco pops this morning?
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Probably some strong guy i'm chummy with
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That was a joke he can't really do it on 2fingers. U seem to have a bit of a bee in your bonnet about my friends. I must ave mentioned his name 3 times in 18 mths, they just so happen to be on this thread. What gives?
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Im just a prick, ignore me.
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I've heard and I'm trying to
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Glad to know that I'm still crap at fingers after dedicating a full year to it. At least I know how to improve:
Lock myself in cellar and do nothing but fingerboard and eat broccoli for the winter. i'll emerge in the spring like a climbing butterfly, pasty white and ready to fly.
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.....
Lock myself in cellar and do nothing but fingerboard and eat broccoli for the winter. i'll emerge in the spring like a climbing butterfly, pasty white and ready to fly.
No doubt, you'd be rocket powered.
A good way to start training this might be by releasing slowly into open hand from a full crimp rather than vice versa.
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Today I found myself more than once thinking about where to put a campus rung to do this shit. It doesn't work on the BM rungs, I need something a bit incut I think. Luckily at the moment I still haven't found a suitable place.
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this (http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/index.php) is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.
using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio
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Looks like a lapis roly bar?
http://www.lapisholds.com/cms/en/39-product-details/product/266-rollybar
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
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this (http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/index.php) is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.
using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio
Wow, 159.95 euros for that. One of these for a tenner would probably do the trick:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/ (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/)
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this (http://www.turntillburn.ch/cms/ttb/index.php) is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.
using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio
Wow, 159.95 euros for that. One of these for a tenner would probably do the trick:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/ (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/)
wow, inflation... :o
i had paid 85 euro including shipping in 2008 (still not cheap in hindsight)
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Did some of these today after a good warmup.
Used the medium Metolius rungs Doing 5 sets of 4 reps of open to half crimp (both arms together). Felt intense and a bit awkward as my middle finger is like E.T.'s index, So tends to bow above the others when trying to hang open.
Is anyone able to do this shit utilising the pinkie without having to flick a bit at the end to get it into the crimp? Trying to go as slow and static as poss.
Will give it a few more sessions and see if there is noticeable improvement.
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Good work. I briefly tried these yesterday on some big campus rungs after a campus session and was surprised by being able to do one rep. Really didn't want to try any more than one!