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shootin' the shit / UK General Election 2024

« Last post by Bradders on Today at 08:03:14 am »

Had some fun last night coming up with a few tabloid headlines:

- Things Can Only Get Wetter
- Drowned Out
- Soggy Sunak Says See Ya
- Wet D:Reams
- Damp Dishi Ducks Out

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MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights

« Last post by remus on Today at 07:25:02 am »

That's super interesting, thanks probes.

I was struggling to visualise what rotary cutting looks like but this vid shows it nicely.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by andy moles on Today at 07:22:33 am »

I don't think a climber with 10 grades in hand going up a route 5 or 10 times is likely to contribute enough degradation to be worth mentioning, unless it was on very soft sandstone or something (which this isn't).

I had to solo the first pitch of a VS multiple times for a project that I climbed last year and I must say this did not even cross my mind as an issue, nor do I feel it should have now that it's been pointed out.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by stone on Today at 07:06:11 am »

My impression is that easier Peak lime routes actually benefit from regular climbing. It clears off loose rock and prevents vegetation. A lot of the allure of the easiest ways up the pinnacle is a sort of mountaineering allure of achieving an inaccessible summit.

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MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights

« Last post by Probes on Today at 01:00:39 am »

Apparently the reason behind different sheets of the same type of plywood being more/less susceptible to mold is down to where in the trunk it was cut. Its rotary cut, so some will be the younger outer part all the way to the older centre section. The older has less sapwood, cells dying off over the years, which have become harder and more resistant to absorbing moisture thus mold growth. This is the same with all timbers, not just ply timbers.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Grady on Today at 12:13:30 am »

Requiring would be ascensionists of a harder route to climb an easier route in order to rig a top rope may lead to accelerated wear of the holds and gear placements on the easier route. (The effect being exaggerated the more popular and/or prone to sieges the hard route is).

If said easier route is good in its own right, seems a shame to expedite its degradation if another solution (such as a minimal bolt ladder on an unclimbable section) could be implemented.

Obviously all crags have their own subtleties and accepted practices, and change should be sought in the appropriate way for the venue.

I’m not familiar with the crag alluded to here so this is more of a general musing on purism vs “accessibility for preservation” than a proposed solution to this specific example.

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for sale / wanted / Re: FS : Oak Bookcase and Display Cabinet

« Last post by Duncan campbell on Yesterday at 11:22:49 pm »

Could be interested in the bookcase as I’ve got a cheap one off Facebook market place and it’s too small.

I’m away from home so have sent to my girlfriend…

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Sam R on Yesterday at 11:05:26 pm »

It's funny that Tony is such a cunt on here, if he's who I think he is in real life he's perfectly nice 

Conversely, I think he's a bit of cunt in real life but perfectly reasonable here. 

Seriously though, what is a bit cuntish is drilling bolts and leaving gear in situ contrary to agreed access agreements.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Tony on Yesterday at 10:04:36 pm »

Replacing bad abseil pegs with stainless bolts makes perfect sense though. Can't any top-rope rig-up be backed up to such an abseil point?

There are no poor abseils anchors to replace. There is a very solid chain and maillon that’s been there for time immemorial which is set such that it is invisible from any ground based direction (without an extremely strong magnifying aid).

Top ropes without requiring fixed kit have been (and are) routinely rigged. I know the FAs of the harder routes/finishes on the buttress pre-date the bolt so the FA didn’t require any of this fixed gear.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Nails on Yesterday at 09:51:55 pm »

He does seem to like chucking out insults rather than simply making a point. Nails (he of the Grand Delusion).