11

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by crimpinainteasy on Today at 06:45:08 pm »

First person to climb V15 twice in a day (half day?).

Scratch that, actually been done a few times! Not many times though..

Ondra Fa'd two 8C's and an 8B in a day back a couple years back. https://www.instagram.com/p/B44J_8YJq0Q/?utm_source=ig_embed
Shawn Rabatou also climbed Story of three Worlds twice in a session becuase he dabbed on the a tree the first time he climbed it.

12

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy popp on Today at 06:34:07 pm »

This is also all rather abstract when we actually use grades in context. Even if we simply have a picture with a line drawn on it and no description, when we are actually stood beneath a crag we take in a range of visual clues that help us make sense of a combination of letters and numbers on the page: does the rock look solid; does it look compact and hard to protect; how tall is the cliff; how steep; are the lines obvious or hard to read, etc. etc. Of course, having a guide book description adds even more information.

Ah, well that's all good as long as you are using grades for their primary purpose: to give information on difficulty to the aspirant ascentionist.

Silly me!

13

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 06:33:16 pm »

First person to climb V15 twice in a day (half day?).

Scratch that, actually been done a few times! Not many times though..

14

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy moles on Today at 06:02:37 pm »

Bit of an absurd comparison to make, was what I was getting at. At least apples and oranges are both similarly-sized spherical fruit.

Apologies, re-reading your post I agree with the general point.

Though my impression is that hard E-grades are not always graded for the hypothetical on-sight attempt - listening to what various people climbing those routes have said or written, it doesn't always seem to be a consideration. In Dave Mac's recent-ish video on how he grades routes, for example, he didn't even touch on it.

15

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by monkoffunk on Today at 05:58:10 pm »

M - Yoga
T - Yoga
W - Yoga
T - 5k run. Been a little lax about keeping this regular. First in just under a month. Felt so good in evening after.
F - Elbow physio exercises. Yoga.
S - Nothing.
S - Yoga

Basically a rest week. Not sure when I’ll get chance to get out again, but hopefully do some more training this week.

16

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 05:37:24 pm »

Bit of an absurd comparison to make, was what I was getting at. At least apples and oranges are both similarly-sized spherical fruit.

17

music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches

« Last post by Oldmanmatt on Today at 05:35:59 pm »

I am certain, that (barring some undisclosed mental health issues) the writers of the new season of Dr Who, are on Acid.

Still, made me smile.

18

shootin' the shit / Re: U-S-A! The American Politics Thread.

« Last post by Bradders on Today at 05:28:28 pm »

Would be really nice to have some context to that. Anyone have a video of it?

19

music, art and culture / Re: The right to counter-protest

« Last post by stone on Today at 04:52:24 pm »

I've just heard a really interesting BBC R4 program where Anwar Akhtar interviews (amongst others) protestors and counter-protestors in Leeds University. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001zk1s

20

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by andy moles on Today at 04:52:22 pm »

Leading to the reductio ad absurdum that WSS is harder than Right Wall because it takes most people a few more goes.

That's hardly ad absurdum, WSS is much harder than Right Wall! It's not just 'a few more goes', there are loads of climbers who would onsight Right Wall but wouldn't get up WSS after a multi session siege. And yes, the same is true in reverse, but only for boulderers who don't actually climb trad.

Not that this matters, because WSS isn't graded E4 any more.