11

beta - chuffing / Re: From a Distance - loose hold

« Last post by SiWitcher on Today at 10:26:37 am »

I'd recommend not putting sika on a Pembroke trad classic. For context, routes and entire cliffs at Pembroke fall over from time to time, like the Public Enemy area at St Govan's. All part of the fun. I don't know of any examples of holds being reinforced with sika at Pembroke previously - if they have been, the sculptor has probably kept quiet about it.

12

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Nibile on Today at 10:10:12 am »

Power Club

Mon  - shoulder static holds, hell on earth, Ioved it. Bentover rows, high pulls.
Tue - AM as usual; PM board climbing, did the problem I'd set the previous session, then set and climbed another one. Board fitness increased by 100%, this inevitably means that problems' difficulty must have decreased by 100%, because the glass is always, always half empty. Back work.
Wed - DL 531 week 4. Training max 138 kg. TRX.
Thu - AM as usual; PM shoulder static holds heavy.
Fri - AM as usual; PM GM 5x5 110kg with pause, bentover rows.
Sat - AM as usual.
Su - regular weights.

13

shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!

« Last post by spidermonkey09 on Today at 10:02:03 am »

My Subaru Legacy has developed a very loud jet engine type noise. It drives completely fine but above about 30mph a whine develops which gets louder and louder the faster you go. It is worst around 60mph and then dies off a bit about 70. Its just about ignorable when driving but apparently for rear passengers its fairly deafening. Internet research/asking knowledgeable friends suggests this is likely to be either the rear diff or wheel bearings. The latter seem particularly bad on Subarus, but there is no discernable change in the pitch of the noise when I change lanes/ go round corners. However I'm not sure whether this would be as noticeable in the rear bearings as the front. There is also no change in the pitch/volume when I shift into neutral. As I brake the noise decreases.

Obviously I would prefer it to be the bearings as the expense of replacing a diff is likely to be more than the car is worth. Anyone got any suggested methods of diagnosis that I can do without getting the car on a lift? Is it worth taking a punt on it being the bearings and getting them done? Will changing the diff oil make any difference to the noise?

Currently my plan is just to drive it til something breaks and ignore the noise but I feel like it might be worth the gamble of spending a bit more money on it as its only done 110k miles and has hopefully been reasonably looked after as it has a full service history. All input appreciated!

14

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by lukeyboy on Today at 09:57:29 am »

She made that look frighteningly straightforward 

15

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by joe-m on Today at 09:56:09 am »

Is she not meant to be training for the Olympics?
Get her of Burden

16

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by petejh on Today at 09:39:23 am »

So in summary, we have a grade system in Britain that only works for on-sighting. Routes =>E7 90+% of the time aren’t attempted onsight. The grading system doesn’t make much sense for these routes. All roads lead to H grades. 🙄

17

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Adam Lincoln on Today at 09:05:17 am »

Planning to do more of the same the coming week. I’ll be down in Weston on Tuesday afternoon/evening to Thursday if anyone needs their rope holding or would like to do some trad. punting.

Bad timing Duncan I am back up North

18

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 08:40:23 am »

Just give her the Olympic Gold now, so she can stop wasting time doing comps and get on with real climbing. She absolutely paths it.

19

news / Re: Aurora

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 08:38:42 am »

Anyone explain

I was "fortunate" to be out with my neighbour who is a full astro geek. I was trying to take in what he was saying between filling a memory card, but the stronger the storm the further down the planet it activates the gasses in the atmosphere, so the "donut" of activity around the planet is normally restricted to poles, but in intense storms the donut moves southwards (and northwards in the southern hemisphere) so it was either to the south of us (for a while) or directly overhead. We reluctantly packed up and went home at 1, as i had to get up to take son to DoE hike, but set my camera up in time lapse video mode in the back garden, pointing straight up in the sky, and it was still intense. The stats stayed high (KP 8/9) until about 6pm, then dropped. It may have been my imagination, or something else, but I was climbing down on the coast and I swear i cloud see very faint rays in the sky with sunglasses on.

Anyway, not sure we will get another like it for a while; perfect solar storm, clear skies, still proper dark (it won't be in about a month), almost no moon and not so cold you are freezing your hands off (like the last big one on Mother's Day 2016 where I was getting hot aches, batteries were dying at a high rate and it was snowing by the time I got home).     

20

for sale / wanted / Re: FS: Original 5.10 Dragons and Moccasyms size 7

« Last post by WillRobertson on Today at 08:21:26 am »

Usually an 8, I'd say the moccs probably come up half a size to a while size bigger than the dragons after wearing in.