UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: csl on May 29, 2016, 10:34:15 am
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STG - the next 6 weeks
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb Privilege du Serpent
Lose a bit of weight - was around 73kg > down to around 72/72.5kg
7c outside - away this weekend if weather plays ball so hopefully get up something. - done
MTG - next 3 months
Get some routes i've tried ticked off - Tennessee, VoTB, New Dawn, Dominatrix
or
Try some new ones and do them... - Gunfighter, Directoonima
LTG - end of year
8a
Mon
Tue
Arch Building One: Hard Boulders
Got to last move on a couple of V7's and some progress on one other.
Wed
Thu
Westway: AnPow/AeroPow
Boulders to warm up
then:
6a+/b
7a onsight
7b attempt
7b attempt
7a onsight
7a+ onsight (with some cheating on a tricky clip)
Fri
Arch Building One: Boulders
Just did some of the recently set stuff up to V5.
Sat
Sun
Ok week, trying to taper as off to Ceuse in 1 week.
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Last Sunday at Raven Tor tweaked my finger. Think it's some form of A4 strain, but it fucking hurts now
M iced
T iced
W iced
T iced! Feeling a bit better
F Malham, fell off the top of consenting adults 7a, did the easy 6a+ 'worst route at malham' and tried taking the space 7b which was awesome.
S Malham again, did Heartly Hare 7a+ 1RP. Then hurt my finger more on the pockets of Seventh Aardvark 7b, then retroflashed rose coronary 7a (which I think is really good), then dogged puddle jumper but didn't RP due to time
S now my finger hurts more and I'll probably have to take 2 weeks off.
Hoping to be back for next Sunday
Annoying as I have Monday Tuesday off!
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TG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg. Finger recovery.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done. Have a fun NZ trip.
LTG: V11.
M: Gym.
T: Frontline and St Leonards.
Quick session at Frontline. Help a mate do his first V5 (which he did!). Lapped a bunch of stuff up to V7 all first go. Got very very close on El Kooko V9.
Usual new stuff at St Leonards after. Did all bar 3 I think. Abit of lever stuff after.
W: Rest.
T: Rest.
F: Birthday so took the day off and drove up to the Central Coast (~1hr) to check out some crags. Lara Street was my main aim and it didn't disappoint. Underdeveloped and no guide but great climbing. Every problem I did was awesome. Best climb of the day was Mick's Arete at a well under-graded V7. Very hard for 7! Took a lot of attempts and a lot of skin. Fell off the top a bunch of times, mantle isn't easy! Stopped in at 2 other crags: Blackwall and Roadhouse. Wasn't expecting either to be my taste and they were worse than I was expecting. Blackwall, shitty sharp lowball cave. Roadhouse, less shitty, more lowball, less sharp cave. Didn't even pull on to anything at either. Good day. Def keen to go to Lara Street again, still plenty of potential around there.
S: Rest! Skin fucked...
S: Jannali. Great little crag. Love it. More laps for me, showing some people here to try the classic Wish You Were Here V5. Repeated this first go as a warm up (a bit messily though...) then went to the warm up wall and did loads of variations. Repeated an unnamed V7 first go and then repeated the original Wish You Were Here V8 2nd go (dab on first). Somehow over the years the name changed from problem to problem... Had a quick play on the V10 version and quickly worked out that I am nowhere near strong enough.... Jumped back on a V8 dyno that I was a bee's dick from doing a while ago. Got nowhere except blood everywhere.... Negative skin now.
Mick's Arete. From a sit and up the right side. Gets V10 if you finish around left. Desperate.
(http://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/05/8b/058b5b149341e66193bca7491993f4775a0ec894)
Catching compression dyno on the original Wish You Were Here.
(http://static.thecrag.com/img/x960/4d/99/4d9996ac52918360ce43cfac57ce015ef3d70059)
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Last Sunday at Raven Tor tweaked my finger. Think it's some form of A4 strain, but it fucking hurts now
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F Malham
S Malham again
Two days at Malham trying hard on routes with a pulley strain is not the best idea, obviously you know your own body better than a random on the internet, but i'd suggest doing some proper rehab rather than just taking two weeks totally off climbing. Hope it recovers well!
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STG (July): Get a decent alpine route or two in in the Kaisergebirge/Oberreintal
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Half an hour shoulder/upper back mobility, core
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Light bouldering session with M jnr, then ring l-sits, i-y-t's, reverse wrist curls
W: Half an hour shoulder/upper back mobility
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Another short session. Had a play on a 7B, did all but two of the moves. Presumably they were the 7B bit.
F:
S: Family bike ride 2 hours
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Humid, tired.
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Last Sunday at Raven Tor tweaked my finger. Think it's some form of A4 strain, but it fucking hurts now
...
F Malham
S Malham again
Two days at Malham trying hard on routes with a pulley strain is not the best idea, obviously you know your own body better than a random on the internet, but i'd suggest doing some proper rehab rather than just taking two weeks totally off climbing. Hope it recovers well!
Thanks CSL, it actually was a cry for help! I'very become quite the expert in shoulders and elbow but I've never had a proper finger injury so I'm a bit clueless.
Any recommendations on the rehab? I take it to start after swelling has gone?
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A week of continuing D.I.Y and indoor climbing :'(
M- Indoors, don't remember much, but finished with a complete easy circuit 25 probs at about indoor 5Bish
T - Ikea, beds, stress
W- Beds and stress
Th - indoors, nice session, finished a red '6B', did a nice slab problem.
F- Got drunk
S - Headache and finishing all the D.I.Y.
Su - Raining, indoors, a bit sore in one elbow, didn't push it too much.
Pining for the forest. Weather looks crap for the foreseeable future, which fortunately isn't very far.
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Hoped to get back training/climbing this week after resting my back for a week....
M:
T:
We: Went to Logport Wall with Jim as the forecast looked rubbish.. Having not climbed for c.10 days It wasnt as bad as I feared... lots of creaking to warm up, but once going got up a few V5's and had fun working some V6's... though the grading was all over the place..
Th: Rest
Fr: Harmers in the morning - really didnt feel like going once I was there, but got stuck into it and made progress on the hardest V4 wall climb in the world ;)
Had the stitches out in my back (5 of them) at 2pm... all felt great - no pain, no problems. Went home, decided to jetwash the back yard. Bent over a few times (nothing strenuous) and felt the wound stretch a bit - but thought it was OK... checked in the mirror when I was done and my stitches had split. My nice neat ish scar was now a 5cm by 0.5-1cm wide gash, about 0.5cm deep (I have but won't post a picture)... really wasnt sure what to do, so went to local minor injuries unit. There I was seen really fast and they decided to 'pack the wound' which I think means shove some sort of dressing deep into it that helps the flesh grow from the bottom up (no chance to stitch it back together). This now has to be changed every three days - by them - and its more of a seeping mess than a nice dry stitch up now... Unsurprisingly this has stopped climbing for now - again...
Anyway.... :)
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(I have but won't post a picture)
Thanks, much appreciated. Get well soon.
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(I have but won't post a picture)
Thanks, much appreciated. Get well soon.
Thanks M - its now at the 'when will this bloody thing scab over and heal up' stage ;)
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Thanks csl
11.2-3
M. PM Foundry Wave bouldering. Tried flouro yellow I tried a couple of weeks ago (left of centre on steep bit) Felt stronger on it but didn't want to get too busted as wanted to campus to top up recruitment. Did a few things then painfully banged my elbow on one of the new wooden blobs. Felt all woozy and had to lie down. It was the bursitis elbow. Decided to finish at that point. Fortunately didnt make bursitis come back
T.
W.
T. Malham. Forecast looked like it would be mint conditions but turned out to be warm and muggy. Cons x 1 then x2. Oak 3 redpoints failing setting up for throw. Only highlight of day was Luke saying "God, you look thin".
F.
S. Dinbren for first time in 20 years. Tiresome bank holiday traffic. Went with Tommy Got there mid afternoon. Hot and hazy. Warmed up (not) on Traction Trauma 6c+ which was desperate. Tommy got shut down on it. Team on Technicolour Yawn 7a+ so jumped on that after they finished. Fell off near start then dogged up it. Tommy had a go on TR then I redpointed it. Tommy TRed again and I Tred the route to the right Walking with Barrence 7b. Fingery with a disturbing cross thru and stand up on the left foot on a smear. Managed to get it first redpoint with a bit of puffing. Drove on to Llanberis.
S. Sheep Pen. Hot, hot, hot. First time here. Went on Klems Arete. Tricky. We both had lots of goes. Tommy got it first. After I got it we moved to the Main Block. Flashed Dog Shooter 6B (same grade as Klems arete). Someone was working a right hand traverse link into it V7. Got involved. Came off going for the top twice and only just held it a third time. Nice to do a 7A+ in a session though probably a soft one.
In Lllanberis till weds or thurs (if anyone fancies a drink??) Hopefully antihydral will get me through.
Sacked off Oak till the Autumn. Going to get back into trad climbing over next few months hopefully starting with the Fairhead festival next weekend if good weather holds
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Goals:
this week - not be total shit grow webbed feet in Font
June/July - Powerplant, Peak WIPS, E4 trad.
Autumn - Raindogs, LHS Tor.
M - Tor bouldering. Felt tired. Held the crimps after heal release on R&H which is progress, might have a chance fresher. Quick play on Cave Problem but could barely do a move.
T rest
W - Nettle. Back on Stung, fell off RP x2 after forgetting/messing feet up after all the hard climbing. Disappointing.
Th - AeroPow - foot on campussing. New format 2:1 work:rest. Decent. Construct new portable FB after checking next week's forecast
F - drive to Hull for overnight ferry
S- drive Zeebrugge to Font. 30 minutes at Sabot in evening realising I won't be climbing hard this week in 20+ degrees heat. Did manage a 5+.
S - wake at 6:30 to get out in the cool but find it's pissing down. Rains all day :furious:
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M -
T - Howshaw Tor pm. Tore hamstring on Black Rhino. Mini Touching the Void descent scene.
W - sofa
T - sofa
F -
S - Lakes stunning weather. Beer.
S - Lakes stunning weather. Hobbled up to Bowderstone and spotted kids/wife. Grange paddling. Beer.
5th injury this year and it's not a minor one. Arse.
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Harsh set of injuries that T_B >:( you reckon it may be related to all fell running you've been doing lately, just not warmed up proper or not really related to anything?
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M -
T - Howshaw Tor pm. Tore hamstring on Black Rhino. Mini Touching the Void descent scene.
W - sofa
T - sofa
F -
S - Lakes stunning weather. Beer.
S - Lakes stunning weather. Hobbled up to Bowderstone and spotted kids/wife. Grange paddling. Beer.
5th injury this year and it's not a minor one. Arse.
Shit !! What's the treatment/ prognosis.
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Might have been tighter than usual, but it was cold and leg pulling in not a great position. One of dem things.
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Shit TB - that's rubbish :(
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STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (4/13). 3. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.
M - Red Spider pre night shift. Trying the comp boulders. Thought needed a day to ease back in before getting back on systems board.
T - Anderson finger board instead of board as needed more sleep. Not the best, failed on some hangs. Either not enough rest since Monday or not trying hard enough. Might be a bit of both, but think guilty of giving up too easily.
W - Or maybe not. Felt worked! And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.
T - Careful to use it less through the night. Still sore.
F - Agony at times. Radiates up arm, horrible dull ache. Responds quite well to 600mg of ibuprofen. Need to be careful though or I might take an accidental staggered paracetamol overdose. Can't remember how much I've had. Think my dad might have some tramadol left over from when he got knocked off his bike though... Hopefully will be miraculously cured by tomorrow. Might cry if I can't climb.
S - Staying at parents in Bristol. Mother has taken all the tramadol for herself. 60mg codeine, 600mg ibuprofen and 1g paracetamol and coffee for breakfast. Nauseating trip down the M5 with Ian. Bad traffic and codeine an unfortunate mix. Long Quarry Point. Slab climbing seems to be the best analgesia. Half way up Up the Styx, Without a Paddle pain in my wrist seems to blissful dissolve into sweet numbness. Styx must be some kinda climbing goddess and has taken mercy on me. UTS,WAP is absolutely excellent by the way. My speed of climbing proportional to the difficulty because I never climb slabs. Took me forever on the top section because I was terrified of blowing the redpoint. One of the best routes I've done.
Went to play on Sole Fusion after that. Didn't redpoint but did every move first attempt on the traverse. Couldn't touch it in November. Didn't even notice that I'd done the first move on it this time. Couldn't figure it out at all before and had to skip it. Progress!
S - Few goes working sequence on Directoonima. One shoddy redpoint attempt. Think I have a sequence that will work. Absolutely incredible. Don't mind that I couldn't do it today, think I might start getting into new age hippy bullshit.
Anyway will definitely be the hardest thing I've done when I do it. Think Sing a Mean Toon Kid alone may be harder than Hall of Mirrors and maybe Valley of the Blind? Was a lot colder when I did those though...
Very happy with this week after wrist scare. Anstey's tomorrow.
Sorry to hear that others have been blighted, hope things heal soon.
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Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June
69kg. (av. Was 70kg on Thurs though)
Body Audit: shoulder seems pretty sorted now, fingers felt bit tweaky after board session on Thursday, but seems to have settled.
M: BBQ, lots of climbers, Si's got a decent board in his garage, I managed to avoid getting sucked in.
T: TCA for hour before work, Joe had started resetting the hard circuit in blue so had a go on those, managed to do all he'd set by then, pretty pleased as there were a few 7's. Finally did the last move of the red slab, didn't manage from the start, but pleased to get the move before it's reset.
W:
T: TCA with Daughter for couple of hrs after school, did a few more of the new blues. Simons board in eve, feel rubbish at board climbing, but should be good for me, and fun session trying hard. RH middle finger felt little tweaky.
F: TCA before nights (fucking nights, again) good session, only 6 blues left of this circuit now, all the moves on a couple of hard ones too.
S: sleep, nights
S: sleep, dragged self to TCA for an hour, took most of it to get going, but productive in the end, ticked 3 more blues, plus did the one move on the other three I'd not managed yet. Nights.
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And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.
Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too
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And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.
Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too
I thought it was wanking?
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M- Core, Weights
T - Walk and some Photos. Nice evening
W - Nothing
T - Bouldering session. climbed OK, but thumb still not right, so no crimping and pinching. In spite of consciously not using it, thumb really sore and swollen afterwards.
F - Beers
S - Ride on MTB, frustratingly thumb hurts so much it's hard to change gears. Weights in evening.
S - Helped out at Triathlon event. Mostly stopping kids drowning, or getting run or cycled over.
Tough call, but decided to sack climbing off for 5 weeks, as thumb is not getting better. Will focus on CV, cycling surfing and swimming fitness in preparation for Lanzarote holiday.
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And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.
Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too
I thought it was wanking?
Old wives tale. Exacerbation is worse
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And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.
Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too
I'll need to watch out for that.
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Man in your position shouldn't need to bother with a CV Chris?
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You have no idea! Axe being swung wildly here.
(I meant CardioVascular, but I guess you knew that).
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M: Core
T: Gwynant Roadkill Boulder - Haven't been in a couple of years, previously done the 3 6's. Did "The Hitcher" (7A+) in about 5 goes. First 7A+ in a session, psyched! Came really close to doing "Roadkill SDS" (7A/+) punted the last commiting move to the top of the boulder on my best attempt. Ran out of skin and light.
W: Core
T - S: Rested plenty as I felt boardline getting ill again, lack of sleep at the moment is taking it's toll still.
S: Gwynant Roadkill Boulder with my son - Felt well rested - Did "Roadkill SDS" (7A/+) 3rd go of the day. Figured out the sit start to "The Hitcher" which goes at 7B had about 8 attempts best one falling off the last hard move before easy climbing. Psyched to get so close!
Plenty of spotting my son between attempts on some cool slabs he found and lots of colouring in!
Nipped over to the Craig Y Llyn boulder and did "Paranormal" (6C+) 2nd go of the day (had tried this briefly previously).
Really psyched for bouldering still, especially as I can get the little one involved. Finally feel like I'm breaking out of a plateau, I've been hovering around 6C-7A for about 2 years. All the winter board sessions must have worked!
Going to keep at it and switch back to routes when it's Diamond season in August.
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Thanks CSL, it actually was a cry for help! I'very become quite the expert in shoulders and elbow but I've never had a proper finger injury so I'm a bit clueless.
Any recommendations on the rehab? I take it to start after swelling has gone?
I'm sure there are plenty more knowledgable than me on this forum, but... this article covers it fairly well.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6193
Personally i'd ice it regularly until the swelling has gone, then begin easy climbing as soon as possible to start using it. Often if its not too bad you can get away with climbing fairly hard using different grips to usual.
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Tom, Tom and Chris - hope you all heal up soon.
M-W press ups and bodyweight stuff each morning.
T - Up early for a flight to Zurich and met my old school friend Nic. Drove to Magic Wood which certainly deserves its name. What a lovely place. It was quite warm and a lovely day. 15 problems to 6a+. Loved the rock and the climbing and the place really is magic. Quite busy though as I think it was a bank holiday. Drove south to Biasca and up into the Ticino area, up a series of switchbacks to our accommodation in a little tiny village Cavagnago on the mountainside overlooking Chrinico. Spectacular scenery with snow covering the tops opposite. Ate rabbit and polenta with a mega bottle of local wine as the sun went down and slept like a log.
F - Swiss brekkie and supermarket then Chirinico. Walked up to the Deliverance area and worked out from there. Very warm but the tree cover kept the sun off and climbed all day. Did some great problems up to 6b until the body gave up. What a great place.
S - The forecast was for rain at 8pm so we planned to climb all day then head back to Zurich. Headed to the Southern part of Chironico by the other village and walked down to New Age and Rah Plats Plats. Cooler than the day before and was climbing well flashing a couple of 6a+'s but it started spitting on and off then the heavens opened and we sheltered in a cave for an hour or so then walked out back to the car as the sun came out but the rock wasn't going to dry anytime soon. Drove over the Gottard pass and stopped at the top for Bratwurst and a beer and had a walk in the snow at 2000m which was a bit mad having come from 25 degree temps in the valley. Stopped off at the Gottard boulders on the way down but they were damp. Drove up to Aarau where Nic lives and met his family then we headed to a local music/arts venue that was celebrating its 25 year anniversary with a music festival. Watched a great band from Holland, a poor local rock band and an ace punk/metal collective then danced to live rave/breakbeat/dub step until 1am and cycled back Nic's a bit pissed. A mental day.
S - Sat in Zurich's massive station hall with a Weissbier listening to two guys play a beautiful minimalist piece on Alpine Horns. Went to the Museum for a Conrad (father of botany and natural history) Gessner exhibition and printed an Albrecht Durer plate on a Gutenberg press then flew home.
The climbing was great, I'd love to go back when it's cooler and I'm a bit stronger and lighter. I loved being amongst the mountains and in the forest. The place we stayed at was called Agriturismo B&B Bertazi (http://www.booking.com/hotel/ch/b-amp-b-bertazzi.fr.html?aid=318615;label=New_English_EN_GBIE_5226314545-RnYQj%2AqnIkYg15Re%2ASD5mgS85657670905%3Apl%3Ata%3Ap1%3Ap2%3Aac%3Aap1t2%3Aneg;sid=9cb2461aa10e797336dd1f216cca1256;dcid=12;dist=0;room1=A%2CA;sb_price_type=total;srfid=b2ca4808b47cb9fb052055d51f8d4c7cdb5186e9X1;type=total;ucfs=1&) and I can't recommend it highly enough for groups and families. There's a nice little restaurant bar next door with dinner for 15F a head with stunning views over the mountains above Chironico
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Those sound like some truly great days Ben.
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STG: Fix shoulder and tick something at Malham this weekend
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a
M - Indoor boulder session, climbing felt so weak... Could do more muscle-ups than before knee injury though :-\
T -
W - Played cricket for my work team (first time in 12 years). All the throwing flared up an old rotator cuff injury though seems it's slightly different to my previous climbing one. Has improved a bit though climbing over BH weekend hasn't helped.
T -
F -
S - Drove to Devon, got on "How the Mighty Fall" 7a+ at Anstey's, horrid climb I thought. Shoulder agreed so no more climbing that day.
S - Not fit enough for Thread Flinstone at Torbryan so RP'ed a 7a link-up, pretty good fun. Got 2nd RP. Bouldering on Bonehill Rocks in the afternoon/eve doing several 6s
Good BH weekend with mates, not overly successful climbing-wise due to being weak and fat after lay-off and new shoulder injury. Rest this week then Malham at the weekend!
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STG: Rehab ring a2 pulley
MTG: 7C/8a
LTG: 8A/8b
Mostly a gym week
M: Circuits, pullups, and TRX work, Is Ys Ts, Pressups
Tu: Climbing with the girlfriend, mostly campusing on jugs (a2 injury)
W: Circuits, + running tabata
Th: Yoga
F: Circuits, Pullups, Pressups, Squats, Rows, Hollow body rocks
S: -
Su: Circuits
My partner's just dropped out from a sport trip to Yangshuo in November / December, so looking at month and half in Arapiles (I'm going to a wedding in Perth). If anyone has any other asia recommendations, I'm all ears.
Ashton - some good info from Dave MacLeod here. http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html
Also, get his book Make or Break, very useful reference reading.
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I loved being amongst the mountains and in the forest.
(Aberdeen, you know you want to)
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S/MTG-do more onsighty/ground-uppy type trad instead of getting stuck in a rut of trying very hard (for me) projects... But still maintain syke to try the hard projects/train.
M-nowt
T-bat cave with Doug. Had a play on his new project, it's pretty tricky with a fairly sustained boulders crux section in the middle. Doug thinks it's 8b-ish, I'll not argue with him.
W-nowt
T-swimming
F-nowt
S-hour of power on the training traverse wall. Warmed up on the easy traverse, then worked the current project traverse (made some decent links) then finished off on the easy traverse but pausing for a count of ten after every move, jeeeeesussss that gets the pump going. Managed to do it four times in a row with the only rest being (slowly) walking back to the start. By the end felt like my forearms we're going to explode.
S-bit of lifting and shifting stuff in the garden, active rest??
Got a bunch of new cams last week, now just waiting for the bird ban to end so I can use 'em...
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I loved being amongst the mountains and in the forest.
(Aberdeen, you know you want to)
Definitely sometime this year Chris. Lots of people to see and Wass hasn't been.
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Did you go up the back way to cavagnago FD? That's where one of locals pulled a shotgun on cwp :lol:
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Ha! Possibly... it was proper "local" mind and there were old blokes with their guns at the bar/restaurant. Probably not the best place for noisy boisterous young groups...
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Was one of the strangest places I've stayed at. From cavagnago you looked across at the top of chironico but when you were in chironico looking at cavagnago it was hundreds of metres up!!! My little brain couldn't handle it! :shrug:
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Same for me... It was mad and brilliant. I think it's about 600m above the bouldlers.
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Mon - rest.
Tue - lunchtime session, fast and furious. One arm Kettlebell swings 25x2; cleans 10x5; snatch pulls 10x5; biceps curl 15x1. All with 1' rests in between. Phew!
Wed - contrast training; PE 2x2' on new holds. Cool.
Thu - climbing class. Easy.
Fri - jump squats with dumbbells; protocol 4x3. Horribly hot already. 26°. Very hard.
Sat - rest. Walked all day.
Sun - reat. Walked all day.
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That's where one of locals pulled a shotgun on cwp
Chris says hi.
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STG - Drop weight
MTG - Local route projects - 8a/+?ish and 8c?ish
LTG - To Bolt
M - Climb outside - Same area as previous week. Did 3 new lines - 2 FA's in the v7ish range.
T -
W - Headed out to rebolt the route projects, spent too many hours in harness, but got 15 new bolts in on the two routes.
T - Mtn Bike 45 min - got charged and knocked off the trail by a moose mama. Thankfully the moose continued chasing the dog instead of trampling me into oblivion.
F - Bike ride in AM, then a bit of exploration and a short session puttin up a new v6-8ish prob (it was sunny, so hard to tell if it was actually hard, or just sort of hard and greasy.
S - work and home chores
S - Out to Byron to start pulling bolts on route projects. Got 10 out of 15 pulled. Also managed to get on the routes. Reworked all sequences on the 8a/+ish route, and got two other local wads on it. Both thought it was nails, but awesome. Hopefully 1-2 days to put it all together. Fitness is my issue, but that should be manageable. :)
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Hi Chris, why you talking about yourself in the third person again? You are Tony Simpson and I claim my £5 ;)
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Not the greatest Magic Wood trip..
Mon: Weights at lunch, treadmill in the evening.
Tues: Weights at lunch (I think?); short, easy bouldering session in the evening.
Wed: Rest day
Thurs: Early AM treadmill; flight to JHB, then Frankfurt in the PM. Not the comfiest flight.
Fri: Early flight to Milan. Rental car hassles. Finally made it to Andeer in the afternoon and went bouldering. Did Scrubs second go, Blindfisch second go and put some time into Intermezzo (did all the moves bar one) and Octopussy (did the jump move but couldn't get the heel hook). Felt quite tired due to the travel and lack of sleep.
Sat: Quite warm, especially in the sun. The joy of Magic Wood is the microclimates. Warmed up on Bosna Genial and then went off to try Supernova while mates tried Morgenlatte. It felt hard at first but managed to get very close before fatigue set in. Dammit.
Sun: Rain. Hiked around the forest a bit, then managed to slip and very nearly break my neck. Retreated to the gasthaus for beer.
The rain set in and we bailed a day early. I'm quite annoyed that I didn't get to finish up Supernova but these things happen on short trips.
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STG: Louis armstrong
MTG: more 8B's
LTG: Hubble
M: Recovering from the cave last Sunday
T: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
W: Nowt
T: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
F: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
S: Fingerboard and core, ended up being a short one as my skin was a bit shit
S: Indoor session on the woodie got spanked
Split my tip last sunday so spent all last week climbing with tape which I always find frustrating. Other than that a pretty standard week of training
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LTG 8A/8b
Feeling motivated to boulder at the moment having just organised a trip to Swizzy and getting stuck into some hard (for me) Welsh problems.
M. Rest
T. Rest
W. One arm hangs and campus board.
T. Indoor bouldering in the cave at BC followed by short woody session.
F.
S. Drove to Wales. Started at Parisella's. 2nd session trying Lou Ferrino, fumbled the second pocket on my best attempt from the floor, doh! My mate managed it after a 1.5 yr battle and first 7C+, psyched for him. Camped over at Capel Curig for the night.
S. Headed into the Pass nice and early. Had a good session working on Mr Fantastic. Haven't done the crux move yet but getting closer. Was getting frustrated that I couldn't seem to get my heel to stay in for the Bus Stop section, but a change of shoes quickly resolved that issue. Few practice runs from the start into the crux, falling off and jumping on Bus Stop. Short trip to the RAC boulders for some sun bathing, followed by Elephantitus Cave. Had a good go on Going Down On An Elephant thingy, but tired arms and sore skin meant inevitable failure on the final moves. Went for a swim, was cold.
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Drove to Devon, got on "How the Mighty Fall" 7a+ at Anstey's, horrid climb I thought. Shoulder agreed so no more climbing that day.
Think I might have walked underneath you on it unless more than one person was trying it, although seems unlikely. Was it just the bit between clip 2 and 3 you hated or the whole thing? Could understand both!
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Drove to Devon, got on "How the Mighty Fall" 7a+ at Anstey's, horrid climb I thought. Shoulder agreed so no more climbing that day.
Think I might have walked underneath you on it unless more than one person was trying it, although seems unlikely. Was it just the bit between clip 2 and 3 you hated or the whole thing? Could understand both!
I just dogged my way up it once, there were another couple of people who were trying it most of the day so could have been them. I just hated how from below every hold looked like a jug, but wasn't! Also, sticky out ledges on a sport route are a massive detracting factor for me after my knee injury.
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STG: improve my shape for sport routes doing more AnCap and AeroCap training
MTG: tick some routes (by end of summer)
M: fb max hangs. Weights (clean and press)
T: board climbing
W: contrast training with Nibs, then some front levers and tried some foot on campusing. Completely trashed
T: rest
F: bouldering after work. Still tired.
S: isometric weight training
S: fb. Some max hangs. Then repeaters. Good session despite being tired and not having done repeaters in a while
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S. Dinbren for first time in 20 years. Warmed up (not) on Traction Trauma 6c+ which was desperate. Tommy got shut down on it.
:agree: , nails for the grade. Tried it in mint connies with Adam and fell off the top crux to an out of reach jug after fighting like fuck on the previous hard bits.
Did Hot Stuff on Friday though which was cool, more sustained than I thought it would be.
S. Sheep Pen. Went on Klems Arete. Tricky. We both had lots of goes. Tommy got it first. After I got it we moved to the Main Block. Flashed Dog Shooter 6B (same grade as Klems arete).
:agree: , exactly the same when I went up there. Klems was nails, Dog Shooter and the other V4 arete were steady.
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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Power phase
M.
T. Mill. Campus sesh 6. Hoping to progress to 147 but didn't. Managed 14touch7. Double dyno 12345 on smalls.
W.
T. Boardroom. Campus sesh 7. Same as previous sesh, 14touch 7. Double dynos 1-3. Dissapointing, feel like power's plateaued below where I'd hoped to be. 4 hours sleep.
F. Easy stuff at Castle Inn in morning with girlfriend and daughter. Scorcio. Drove to Pembroke in pm. 3 hours sleep.
S. Pembroke. St Govans East. Did Ganymede. Pembroke rammed and I felt on edge the whole time about girlfriend/duaghter gettign taken out by rockfall. Got sunbaked. Walked round to Mowing Ward to do Diedre Sud but too sunblasted to look after them properly so decided better of it at the ab. Went swimming in Broadhaven and went from mildly heat exhausted to fucking baltic in 30 seconds. 4 hours sleep - woken in campsite at 2,3,4 am by valley scumbags no's 1 and 2 screaming 'Bastard' 'Cunt' every 20 seconds to laughing like a hyena from valley scumbag no 3.
S. Zombified by 3 nights lack of sleep. Walked to Saddle Head, fell asleep in sun. Too knackered to look after folks so went to Freshwater West surfing. They had a blast, I slept in the shade. Drove back through mid Wales in glorius evening sun - just as I was feeling really smug showing off mid Wales in it's evening splendor we decided to check out Borth for dinner. Turns out this is where all the fat bastards from Birmingham go to drink fosters and eat hot dogs on a bank holiday.
M. LPT easy stuff with GF and daughter before dropping them at airport in pm. Met an odd skeletal fellow with pale sunken cheeks hiding in the shade of an overhang, wearing a t-shirt over his head just in case he might stumble into the light.
Disappointed with campus results, hoped to nail 147 on smalls before end of power phase. Pembroke was hard graft - on edge about rockfall due to so many people around, and generally looking after GF and a ten year-old. No sleep and too much sun meant no energy to climb. Most exhilarating part of my weekend was wandering over to ask valley scumbag's to keep noise down at 4am to be greeted by three bollock naked valley scumbags pissed as fuck and high as kites telling me how they'd just sucked each other's cocks. Did Sean's campsite always used to be like this or am I just getting old?!
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Bloody hell that campsite bullshit sounds grim. What is it with so-called normal people turning into utter fucking cunts at bank holiday campsites?? Surely they could simply not do it and just shut the fuck up??
Sunday you should have been nu-routing at Llawlech in mid-wales - was catching a nice breeze, easy track walk-in, lovely family picnic spot. Plus Harlech Tandoori at 10:25 pm :yes:
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Mon. Sore from yesterday. Spent all evening trying to index the gears on my bike.
Tue. More farting about with my bike gears.
Wed. Take bike into shop. Board few harder things. Turbo 40 mins. Train to Manchester to see Bruce. Spent £100 on 2 sandwiches and 2 bottles of wine back at the hotel. Still it was cheaper than stuff at the stadium.
Thu. Travel back and pick bike up from shop.
Fri. Board struggling so 2 sets of warm up problems 30 in total then 5 sets of repeaters with 25lbs added. Bike intervals one hour.
Sat. Bike 76.01 miles 4 hrs 32 mins.
Sun. Board same as Friday. Bike 60.64 miles 3 hrs 31 mins.
Things keep improving just need to train my recovery better.
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Bloody hell that campsite bullshit sounds grim. What is it with so-called normal people turning into utter fucking cunts at bank holiday campsites?? Surely they could simply not do it and just shut the fuck up??
Sunday you should have been nu-routing at Llawlech in mid-wales - was catching a nice breeze, easy track walk-in, lovely family picnic spot. Plus Harlech Tandoori at 10:25 pm :yes:
Was a bit but I'm a light sleeper at the moment. My girlfriend and her daughter didn't notice anything! They were proper twats though.
Llawlech? Bloody hell Fiend you're the new Martin Crocker
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Who, me?? (https://scontent.fman2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12141489_10153736323693623_7058856867799162280_n.jpg?oh=061117b54aec1131f14b281a965d1713&oe=57C779E4) If I had a tenth of his determination and discipline I could climb quite well I reckon...
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STG: training?
MTG: Walk up Zoo York 8A next winter
LTG: 8B
M:
T: Caley. Last decent connies day of the season? Did all the moves quickly on Pedestal Arete Sit 7C, using a cheeky left heel. Said heel move felt piss in isolation, didn't work on the link. Consolation tick of Scary Canary 7B+.
W: Bouldering Indoors. Tired.
T: Full body workout
F:
S: Caley. Jungle conditions. Ferns out in force. I won't return till winter now. Pedestal Arete was wet, repeated a few 7's.
S:
RIP Caley. Long live the Cliff.
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RIP Caley. Long live the Cliff.
:2thumbsup:
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CaLOG
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M - day 1 in sella, sector wildside warmed up on the 7a groove, then did oceano 7b retro-flash, and dogged the 8a extension, did it second redpoint, flashed black is black 7b+ afterwards just before sun came round. A great first day after awful day of arrival on sunday, when we got robbed in carrefour car park.
T - same warm up, dogged putita de millau, redpointed it first go, should gone for the onsight really, but still felt like a nice style to do it in; tried watermark, but too hot for little crimps on that, onsighted a 7b+ at end of the day
W - much needed rest on the beach reading books and sunbathing; proper holiday
T - tried romocop 8a+, in 3 sections at best, too warm and humid for the slopers, monday and tuesday's cool breeze failed to turn up; flashed a 7b as consolation tick for the day
F - went to Castellet de Calp, onsighting (or trying to); did a very soft 7c+ and a burly not so soft 7c, along with nice 7as and bs
S - tried tirali valent 8a+, great edgy wall climbing, but no tick; flashed a great traddy 7b+ after. utterly knackered getting on the plane in the evening
S - tried to sleep in after overnight journey, but way too sunny and nice; went out for about 30 mile ride in the peak on bike, not the best recovery perhaps but a great day
excellent trip and week, keen to head back to wildside in slightly cooler conditions, but pleased to find out its not too bad at all in late May, as long as it is catching a bit of wind