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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by ToxicBilberry on Today at 02:15:14 pm »

Whatever happened to going about your business quietly with as little fuss and impact as possible? Alternatively why not rig a circus up at the crag and spray all over the internet about your personal journey. …. Nowt wrong with a bit of spad climbing now and again.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Bonjoy on Today at 01:59:49 pm »

Yes, I don't think Ilam is on access land. It's in a National Nature Reserve and there was a programme to dedicate NNRs as access land that started in 2015, but there were stated exceptions to this based on terrain and conservation, either of which might plausibly apply in this case. https://magic.defra.gov.uk/magicmap.aspx is the most definitive online record and it doesn't show it as being access land.

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Duma on Today at 01:36:32 pm »

Anak Verhoven has climbed La Planta de Shiva in Villanueva del Rosario for her first 9b. She joins Laura Rogora, Julia Charnoudiere and Angela Eiter as the only women to have climbed the grade.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C7CYw_OtgML/

Just did it again without kneepads. Crazy how good she is! Still being ignored by the other channel I see.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7OpRWCNFct/?igsh=MTU2YnFyMjFtb3BkZA==

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MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 01:24:07 pm »

Yeah, we are going through the preventing / mitigating process at the moment. But the difference between two holds next to each other is (literally) chalk and cheese, and the affected holds are randomly scattered.

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MoonBoard / Re: Moonboard - climbing by numbers or rather LED lights

« Last post by Bradders on Today at 01:00:32 pm »

I'm not sure how the lamination part works, but my experience of holds made from plywood is they are catastrophically susceptible to condensation. Far more so than any other material. Presumably the laminating is supposed to help?

I also have had it where holds in different places on the board are affected differently despite being made from the same material, which I imagine is something to do with airflow etc.

Lots of advice on the holds thread around preventing / mitigating condensation.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Hacker on Today at 12:57:30 pm »

Agree.
Looks like I'm be wrong about the open access anyway. The OS app shows the particular crag as open acess but the Natural England site does not. Neither show any of the southern crags on the easy bank as being on open access land and it wouldn't be worth contemplating loosing those.

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shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!

« Last post by Paul B on Today at 12:44:01 pm »

Has anyone got any beta for AC re-gassing beyond ATS Euromaster or similar? I'm hoping whoever offers this service does a pressure test first but the local garage in Colne said otherwise (I was under the impression it isn't great for the environment so this seems a little odd).

The car's been fault code scanned and there's nothing showing up that looks like the culprit.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 12:31:23 pm »

There is a big difference between being allowed to climb and being allowed to install bolts. At some point (hopefuly not here but somewhere) I expect the situation to arise, as it has in the US, where an entire area has to be completely cleared of all fixed gear.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by Hacker on Today at 12:24:18 pm »

Worth noting that the location is on access land so climbing access can't be banned easily unless others know differently?

https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visiting/frequently-asked-questions/faqs-access-land#:~:text=What%20can%20I%20do%20on,picnicking%2C%20photography%20and%20bird%20watching.

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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: Spad climbing

« Last post by duncan on Today at 11:26:13 am »

Ed, thanks for coming on here. I’ve used fixed lines on Portland and other spots where they are accepted and there are no access issues relating to fixed gear. This is not Portland, it’s a space we share with others, a very public feature. The landowner wants to present a Picturesque Landscape in a way that doesn't create undue risks to visitors or unduly interfere with flora and fauna. These aims are in tension with climbing and to retain access we have to be pragmatic.

When I read the other thread my first reaction was how is fixed rope considered acceptable when leaving quickdraws overnight is not? I now get that the rope is not immediately obvious but, as well as the visual aspect, kids do like to explore and a rope might be seen by the landowner as encouraging them to get out of their depth and so creating undue risk. The working compromise in this part of the world is discrete bolts do not significantly detract from Picturesque Landscapes but in situ quickdraws, chains, and bits of rope do. It's a bit contradictory in some ways but the landowner is providing roughly what the great majority of visitors expect. If the landowner was less sympathetic it would be very easy for them to ban climbing here and possibly on their other lands in the region. The landowner is influential, a quasi market leader, and if they move in this direction then other landowners will be taking note.

I will never go near the 7c+ or the 8b but they look amazing. It would be good to preserve access to them even if this means a bit more work each time you try them. I've done the E2 but, if I hadn't, I'd be pretty pissed if access was lost.

(I have my own views on bolting and fixing a rope up a route climbed pre WW1 but that’s not for this conversation).