81

diet, training and injuries / Re: Internet based drama about differently shaped lumps of wood

« Last post by mrjonathanr on Yesterday at 08:38:53 am »

I don’t quite know what I think about these unlevel edges.

Firstly, the reason you can lift more weight with an unlevel edge is the finger positioning on a flat edge creates mechanical disadvantages which these address. Great. So the edge allows me to train heavier loads in idealised conditions. Is weight a good proxy for strength? Same force in a mechanically advantageous position means more weight held, but I don’t see that lower weight in a mechanically disadvantaged position means  the muscle is being trained to produce less force, just that it’s being applied less efficiently. Surely the advantage of a flat edge is it replicates real world application and what we want is force in those conditions. So a flat edge trains muscle to produce force under mechanical disadvantage. That’s just climbing, right?

So is there an advantage in training under mechanically advantaged conditions? It seems to me that some fingers are not loaded enough on a flat edge to get a good training stimulus and the unlevel edges address this. So that’s a clear positive.

Additionally, a better distribution of load and joint angles should be less tweaky. No one wants a finger injury from training.

So my take is that they’re a good addition, strengthening some fingers/finger positions and being less injury inducing, but flat edge training still has value.

82

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by ali k on Yesterday at 08:02:19 am »

All that stuff you want costs a lot of money that the treasury would have to front astronomical sums to implement.

Or private individuals.

Stone - one of the items on your Utopian Shopping List is ‘Passivhaus standards for new buildings’. By when? Legislation passed in the first 100 days? By the end of the Parliament? I assume this covers houses too? Do we currently have the knowledge/skills to implement this across the industry nationwide? What would this do to house prices/renting costs (which are already unaffordable for many)? Or would general taxation subsidise this for private buyers/renters?

Don’t get me wrong, building standards in the UK have been very poor, particularly houses. And the UK is way behind the curve with energy efficiency. But the industry is moving in the right direction.

I’ve picked up on one item on your list that I know something about. If Labour put that in their manifesto to update Building Regs to Passivhaus standards even by 2030 I’d piss myself knowing how unrealistic it was and would have to conclude the rest of the manifesto is equally pie in the sky. Which is what happened when Corbyn was in charge.

I’m sure the other items on your list could be equally dismantled or picked apart on further interrogation by someone with the knowledge and/or inclination (e.g. the right wing press). So Labour would get nowhere near Downing Street. That’s the most important first step to getting anything done.

83

diet, training and injuries / Re: Bunion but not a bunion?

« Last post by NaoB on Yesterday at 07:46:27 am »

Where are you based? I had a similar issue with my big toe and managed to swiftly get an appointment at the podiatry clinic in the local health centre by simply filling in a self-referral form. In Burnley. I have done this twice actually and was very impressed with the service.

Incidentally, I have found that the longer term solution to this problem is to wear gel toe protectors when climbing. The difference in pain levels with and without these is enormous!

Brands and photos please! Not come across these.

NOT photos of your feet! I meant the gel thingies.

You are quite right, you REALLY don't want to see a photo of how my toes looked before I resorted to these!!

84

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by TobyD on Yesterday at 07:46:06 am »

I thought the 2017 Labour manifesto was excellent.

Doesn't that involve big spending and borrowing? When the gilt market and higher interest rate makes that even less of an idea now. Do you really think that Russia will leave Europe alone if we leave them alone?
Apart from anything else, in 2017 nowhere near enough people voted labour to make it a realistic plan for government.

Haven't we recently had a prime minister who tried some economic radicalism and ideas from a think tank? Surely Corbyn ideas would have gone exactly the same way.

85

diet, training and injuries / Re: Bunion but not a bunion?

« Last post by NaoB on Yesterday at 07:45:19 am »

DYKOOK Cuttable Toe Tubes (5 Packs) Big Toe Protectors Made of Elastic Fabric Lined with Silicone Gel. Toe Protectors Relief Toe Pressure Pain,Corn and Calluses Remover (for Big toes-10CM) https://amzn.eu/d/arPaTco

Can get them from Amazon. Also available in high street shops like body care, boots, super drug etc.

86

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by Davo on Yesterday at 07:38:44 am »

Hi Stone

I basically agree with you regarding economic policies and I don’t see that we can’t improve things a great deal if the political will is there.

However, my opinion is that I prefer almost any form of Labour govt over the conservative one we have now. I also think that Corbyn was pretty much a disaster for Labour in terms of electability. I liked the majority of his policies but the way he went about leading Labour and presenting himself to the electorate was abysmal. I understand that he appealed to quite a lot of people and got many people very excited about politics for the first time but clearly he was unelectable.

I am not enthused by most of Starmer’s policies but neither am I appalled by them like I am by most of the decisions that the current govt has made over the last 10 years. I just want a change and I want to give Labour a chance to have a go at running the country. They have enough ideas and policies that if implemented will at the very least make things slightly better. There is unlikely to be much economic radicalism initially but possibly there might be in a second term if they win again.

Cheers Dave

87

diet, training and injuries / Re: Internet based drama about differently shaped lumps of wood

« Last post by Stu Littlefair on Yesterday at 07:28:18 am »

Big numbers for weak fingers

88

diet, training and injuries / Re: Internet based drama about differently shaped lumps of wood

« Last post by teestub on Yesterday at 07:24:07 am »

Designing an edge that will allow people to post vids of themselves lifting more weight, without actually getting stronger, seems like a market winner for sure!

89

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by stone on Yesterday at 07:23:46 am »

What is real is the people we have here and their capabilities, the land we have here, the rest of the world and the real resources people there might exchange with us.

All the rest of it is societal constructs. The powers-that-be evidently are happy to recognise that at times. For covid, bank bailouts, wars etc, we get central bank treasury coordination etc to do whatever it takes.

I don't even think we need much in terms of economic radicalism anyway. Just a willingness to face up to vested interests. Wealth taxes, rent controls, employment reform etc would be enough. Like I said, I'd be delighted with something like the 2017 Labour manifesto.

90

shootin' the shit / Re: UK General Election 2024

« Last post by stone on Yesterday at 07:12:57 am »

I thought the 2017 Labour manifesto was excellent.

Funnily enough, perhaps a good overview of what Labour then was about is this report from the rightwing think tank Policy Exchange https://policyexchange.org.uk/publication/mcdonnellomics/