UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: AndiT on June 29, 2006, 12:51:43 pm
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Sorry if this is already somewhere else. Does anyone know if the Cornice is ready yet, or is it still dribbling?
Cheers. :)
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was pretty dry last weekend,
get yer sen doon thar
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Well I took the risk and walked down and it's perfectly dry :thumbsup:. Perhaps the driest I've seen it. Bit loathe to tell really because it was also quiet, but share the wealth and all that. A touch damp/mucky around roof warrior still.
Enjoy.
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Yep - It's dry.... I was super close to onsighting Martial Music (only 7a for you uberwads... but still a tricky onsight by my standards) last Saturday and fell off moving off the crucial crimp post-crux grrr....
The oldies were worried about the bolts on Armistice Day - so be careful.
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Did AD yesterday. The bolts looked fine, except for the nuts being loose and needing a spanner on them. All stainless and quite new.
Also did Who's Line, the bolts on which are well overdue for replacement. Non stainless wedge anchors with stainless hangers. The bolt heads are very rusty. That Was The River was to dangerous to climb last year and I suspect still in need of re-equiping.
I have a drill now, but I don't have the time to do these (am busy revamping another neglected peak sport crag) and the price of stainless bolts has gone up loads since last year. There is urgent need of a peak bolt fund and people with time on their hands.
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ive got the time to bolt up a few worthy causes although not enough cash to do more than a couple, fancy showing me how its done jon?
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Aye, I can impart the sacred knowledge. I'll let you know when i'm next bolting.
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....am busy revamping another neglected peak sport crag)...
Care to elaborate or would that give away the umpteen projects you have there??
PS _ being cash rich and time poor (relatively speaking of course) I'd happily cough up for a bolt fund.
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I'm sure no one will dash over there and nab my project, but i'll tell you by PM just to be on the safe side.
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There's some good info on bolting safe here http://tinyurl.com/g6rae and some good pics of bad bolts
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Read in summit I think that the BMC had set up a bolting research group and were looking to release a best practice kind of manual for re-bolting etc. Ive always thought that if you could have a bolt with some kind of sacrificial anode you would only have to replace this and not the whole thing each time but im a little unsure if it would work properly...
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Have wondered the same, but never seen anything of the kind.
Am also interested in trying out self tapping bolts. There is a 10mm stainless one on the market for industrial use, which is apparently stronger in pulltests that equivalent resin or expansion bolts. The main advantage is that you can screw the bolt out when it's past it and either screw in another or use the hole to place a resin bolt.
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Sounds good, with regards to the sacrificial anode i was wondering if two holes,one with the bolt and one with the anode joined somehow would remove the risk of having big unsightly blocs of corroded metal at every bolt...? Theres really only one way to find out if it'll work.
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The oldies were worried about the bolts on Armistice Day - so be careful.
we did this route last summer and I don't remember having any concern about the bolts, and I'm pretty gay about that type of thing.
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Got myself psyched to rebolt a load of stuff at the end of last season, and collected together the necessary to re-bolt Powerplant and Monumental just as the Cornice got wet again. Typical!
My own fault for being a late starter. However, this year I'm a bit better prepared and I do now have some bits and bobs 're-appropriated' :whistle: from various indoor establishments which I now have earmarked for various bits of limestone around the Peak. These include stainless belays and hangers. If anybody wants to lend me a drill next time I'm down the dale I'll rebolt a few things. Its worth noting that if we don't keep on top of things, somebody is going to come a right cropper before too long - Gaz and I snapped a bolt whilst trying to tighten the nut on its stud on Caviar at Rubicon last summer, which really frightened me cos it looked pretty good compared to some of the other shit people lob on to.
The bolts in Powerplant - one of the Peaks most popular 8a's - are absolutely shagged compared to the one we snapped on Caviar, and yet nobody has thought about replacing them. Being an absolute pansy when it comes to falling off, I prefer to know that the bolts I will be sitting on will stay in, so will rebolt this route next time I'm down the dale.
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i was reminded not to have blind faith in bolts on wednesday when the person i was climbing with reached up and just pulled a bolt out, it looked rusty but ive definately clipped worse and sauntered happily by, a lot of routes are in a state of disrepair, is there a formal bolt fund for the peak or not?
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Percy, PM me if and when you need to borrow drill. I have only just got drill second hand off ebay, so not sure yet how good/knackered the battery is. Mighty be testing it this weekend so will have a better idea soon.
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does any one know is armstice day, clarion call, martial music, whos line is it anyway and the big zipper- are any of these in condition? was on my way down the other day and was informed they were piss wet.
cheers al
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Asking for a friend - is Cheedale likely to be dry at the weekend - specifically Sturgeon in the Cupboard, on the Embankment?
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Cheedale is even more dry now. Long wall is dry too if a little dusty, could do with some traffic get things clean, although I took the liberty to climb there last night and clean a few in the process. Enjoy.
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Excellent! Is the embankment dry too?
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Embankment - Bone dry has been for weeks!
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As I suspected. Yay.
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are the rumours true? Has the cornice started to dry out? If so have the routes seen much traffic or are they still pretty dusty?
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All but the wettest routes looked dry last Thurs. Virtually nothing was clean or chalked.
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arggh, will have to take my brushes then. Cheers for the info bonjoy.
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had a butchers yesterday and was amazed by how dry the place was, martial music, clarion call, third order were all climbable too, although still a tad dirty in places. Lots of other stuff had chalk on it like bored of the lies. We were the only group there though which was surprising. So arm yourselves with an arsenal of assorted brushes and get to it lads!
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Walked under the Cornice today and I'm afraid it's soaking. Cosmopolitan looked just about climbable but everything else was dripping wet.
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Was down on Saturday on t'other end. Long wall wet again after being bone few weeks back. Embankment had seepage at mid height brake sort of thing. two tier klooked ok, but crossing looked bit adventurous due to water level
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For 2007 info it's still very much a wet moist affair, nice if your witha lady shite if your down the dale. Power plant gopping, monumental, a slime fest. come back in july.
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A report about filth containing filth. Is that you Gib?
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A report about filth containing filth. Is that you Gib?
Maybes it is and maybes it is.
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dale cons update:
max wall, top of just about everything on 2 tier and near all of the embankment wet from run off by y'day p.m.
seepage also and issue on many routes on these buttresses...
not going to be much down there in good nick for a couple of weeks i reckon.. didnt look at the other crags - they seep even more, i reckon they are stuffed too..
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Another months rainfall forecast in the next 48 hours n'all...
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thats got to be a good thing though. do they know which month's it will be? november could do with draining.
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I think its this April's unfortunately.
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dang.
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Yesterday I climbed on Max Buttress, Embankment and Two Tier - all bone dry apart from a sign of dampness on the crux of Sturgeon. Long wall also looked very dry but we didn't venture that far.
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Fantastic! I'd nearly forgotten that the Dale existed, I've not considered it an option for so long it was almost off the radar. Good call on checking it out.
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Has anyone been to Chee Tor during this spell of fine weather? Pacifically Mortlock's Arete and round that section.
Thanking you in anticipation.
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Pacifically Mortlock's Arete
WOW. go on somebody. go on.
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I'm heading down to two tier tomorrow, will go for a wander and check it out!
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on second thoughts (and after perusal of a map) that is a bit of a treck...
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Took walk today, cornice is still a couple of weeks away (of good weather) for the middle and right hand end. Across the river chee tor was quite busy though. Embankment dry, Nook gopping, Max dry and two tier (lower) looked dry too. Having said that it all looked quite uninspiring and I doubt I'll go back this year barring a 'monumental' change. Went to Rubicon too 'cos the Mrs wanted a look at Rubicon roof and the Sissy which she fancied as she quite likes hanging in a harness for extended periods. Both were dry. Caviar wet. Salar, Tribes, Zeke and Kudos all dry as a nun's tuppence. And they all still looked shit too.
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For anyone thinking of going word is that it got very wet last week.
Simon
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Sorry I meant WCJ Cornice - Stallioni going on about Rubicon got me confused ( not hard)
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For anyone thinking of going word is that it got very wet last week.
Simon
When?
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got thurs after downpour....
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Stallioni going on about Rubicon got me confused ( not hard)
I would rather get you confused than hard.....but whatever floats your boat.
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Had a wander down Cheedale last night. The Cornice is wet, but not as wet as I expected. Much of the water looked like run off from the top and could be recent and temporary. Everything right of RnP is dry. Powerplant had chalk on it but had wet bit, presumably it was dry a week or so back. Four Door looked dry. Clarion Call area was wet as was most of the rest of the crag.
Dog’s Dinner Buttress was in great nick and looked to have had recent visitors. Had forgotten how good the traverse project is. I can’t believe this has still not been done!
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I read on an old thread about the possibility of some decent bouldering at the left hand end of the cornice (if it was ever cleaned up etc). Has anyone done anything about this or has it not been dry since (can't remember when the thread was from)?
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Someone had a go at cleaning a small part of this wall up a few summers back (2004 or 2005). Although the wall has potential, it is incredibly dirty being covered in a thick layer of Cornice-cake. It stays wet until well into the summer and in bad years probably doesn't dry out properly at all. Even if/when the holds are clean you still get covered in cake simply by brushing against the rest of the rock, which means it's probably a venue strictly for the limestone enthusiast. However, it does benefit from being a cool venue in the hottest of weather.
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I get ya. So it would take an exceptionally dry summer and a lot of hard work to get anywhere with it.
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A good place to go in combo with Dog's Dinner. The two best looking lines are on relatively clean dry areas, on impeccable (if a little dirty) rock
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Anyone been down in the last few days?
Thinking of taking a look this weekend. Cheers, Mick.
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I haven't been since last friday, when I was there it was in a bad state, wet and dirty.
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i was down there last sunday, everthing right of unleashing.... was dry enough to climb. Everything left of Powerplant was sopping and very very dirty....
In between, powerplant to Unleashing..., stuff was workable and nearly redpointable i imagine but all need a good cleaning to stuff any moisture being retained in the dirt......take a stiff broom or brush and get the drying process accelerated, thats what i intend to do next week anyway...
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I cleaned up Masculine power trip about 2-3 years ago. This is not the dirtiest bit of the left hand end, but it took two days with wire brushes and getting covered in crap. Not much fun.
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Did you also clean nemesis around about then ru? While I was there I had a look for it took me far too long to realise I was stood underneath it. It was covered in some kind of sludge cake and you could only tell it had been climbed on by the sica showing through and the odd biner left on bolts, I could see it taking a hell of a lot of effort to clean off.
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The Cornice always looks as bad as this before stuff gets climbed. It takes a lot of effort to clean routes and it's a process that needs repeating every year on some routes. Some routes are worth the effort, some probably aren't. I think there's a good chance the Cornice might dry out properly this year (touch wood), if the dry weather lasts a bit longer and isn't followed by monsoons. The earlier things get cleaned, the sooner they dry.
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I was there on monday and was suprised to find how much it has dried out in the last few weeks despite the rain we've had. Even the steep left hand end was mostly dry. It is very dirty though, so needs keen folk to get down with their brushes to get things into nick. From what I could see, Clarion Call, Armistice Day and Powerplant were clean and chalked...
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According to buxtonweather.co.uk the area has only had 54mm of rain in May and 40mm in June, both well below average rainfall for these months. If things don't crap out it should be a good Cornice year.
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as of 6/7/08:
Monumental looks damp in the lower section and vegetated but top dry.
Jug Jockey > Roof Warrior look dry
Cry of Despair > This is the Sea - dry but really dirty (the overlap at the 2nd bolt on CoD is damp but climbable)
Martial Music and all routes right to Third Order all bone dry.
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War Memorial, Martial Music and Clarion Call, all dry but could dowith traffic to clean. Armictice Day and Whose Line looked just about dry enough to do. Bored of the Lies, Ouiji Board, Four Door, Powerplant, all dry. Everything right of RnP totally dry. Unleashing cleaned and chalked, but not yet re-bolted (will maybe get sorted next week).
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Everything right of RnP totally dry.
Does that include RnP? How did it look?
Cheers
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Unleashing cleaned and chalked, but not yet re-bolted (will maybe get sorted next week).
Did you try the top section again? Any new beta/feel any easier?
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RnP looked probably dry enough to do, with maybe a wet hold or two near the start. That said, it might be worse after last night.
Yeah I was back on Unleashing and have sorted out ok beta for the top. The very last move is a barn doory slap with RH on a small layaway and RF on a big smear. Not as hard as I'd first thought but still very fluffable! Might be there later if the weather clears and I can find my wellies.
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dbp - Was back there yesterday and did Unleashing. The top was wet due to overnight rain so I had to work a new non dynamic sequence (rag/chalk dried the holds well enough to use static but still too soapy to catch as a slap). My new better sequence for the top is: From matched on undercut > LF yellowy small but positive hold > RF Smear > LH sharpish flaky pinch > RF goodish foothold just under right side of undercut > RH tiny two finger fin/pinch > stand up onto RF and kick LF out onto whatever > RH flat undercut horizontal pinch > LF ok foothold with crack along the back > RF broken/chipped looking toe dish > cross LF to big brushed smear > RF way out right to tiny spike > LH static to big flatty with thumb catch left of belay > RH big jug > Clip belay > Go for curry and beer.
The rest of the crag is looking better. Additional to the dry routes mentioned earlier Roof Warrior, Cry Of Despair, RnP, Bored Of The Lies, Big Zipper, War Memorial all looked doable. Other stuff that looked close That Was The River, Masculine Power Trip, This Is The Sea, Jug jockey. Bring a selection of brushes, a rag or two and wellies for the walk in.
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Dbp – Oh yeah, I forgot to put your bail biner back on Unleashing, sorry. But I did leave it high up on Bored Of The Lies after having a play on Ouijaboard.
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Nice one! Im looking forward to getting back on it some time soon. Bail biner?! Sure its mine? You cleaned the route that day from the lower off, didnt think anything was left behind. No probs anyway.
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Oh right, someone else must have been on it in the meantime. I just assumed it was you as it was on the last bolt and you asked about beta for last moves. Good to see it getting some attention. Must get round to replacing those shoddy top bolts!
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Think that bail biner is Mr Napier's as he went there monday, without a clipstick and said the bit to the belay was wet.... so didn't do it...
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Dbp – Oh yeah, I forgot to put your bail biner back on Unleashing, sorry. But I did leave it high up on Bored Of The Lies after having a play on Ouijaboard.
Just curious to know how you got on with Ouijaboard ? I found it utter nails and significantly harder than Unleashing, 7c+ .... my arse :-\
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I had heard people say it was really hard, so was expecting solid 8a. Thought it was tricky, but still significantly easier than Unleashing, maybe low/mid 8a. I could imagine the move to the edges below the overlap being a lot harder if you can't reach off the good foothold. Will know better when I have a redpoint. Which bit where you finding hard?
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A lot worse today than it has been. Previously dry routes which are now wet include Clarion Call, Martial Music, Bored of the Lies, Ouijiboard. Basically it's wet apart from Four Door, Power Plant and the RH side.
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Pretty much a write off at the moment. I'm keen to get back on the right side if it dries again so if anyone is nearby please please please drop in and report back on conditions.
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Walked past yesterday - utterly totally fucked. An actual stream running down the crag. Quite disappointing really, but at least the crag looks good.
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Anyone been down the 'Dale yet this year? Embankment / Two Tier / Max Wall conditions report please.
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Anyone been down the 'Dale yet this year? Embankment / Two Tier / Max Wall conditions report please.
I was at Embankment on Wednesday with Falling Down popping my Chee Dale cherry. All seemed bone dry. People on Hungry Eyes, Stone the Loach, Mind of a Turbot and Sturgeon.
Get down there!
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Like Galpinos said, Two Tier, Embankment, Max's and Two Tier (apart from the roof at the LH) are all dry.
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Like Galpinos say's Two Tier, Embankment, Max's and Two Tier (apart from the roof at the LH) are all dry.
I see Two Tier is so dry they named it twice.
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:-[
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I'm very interested in the condition of The Cornice and the Ogre wall on Chee Tor if anyone has been or is going down that end of the dale.
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I'm very interested in the condition of The Cornice and the Ogre wall on Chee Tor if anyone has been or is going down that end of the dale.
Can't help with Ogre wall I'm afraid but took a walk below the Cornice this afternoon and it's still looking very wet.
Monumental area still soaking and will take some cleaning when dry to bring back in condition. Clarion call area and further right along the cornice was dry in places but still not really climbable.
Here's hoping for a better summer than the last 2 years.
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how long does it usually take for parts of cheedale to dry after these past few days and next few day of rain??
would it be likely to be ok at the weekend?
cheers
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I'm very interested in the condition of The Cornice and the Ogre wall on Chee Tor if anyone has been or is going down that end of the dale.
You want to do Boobs Jon, that'll dry much quicker and give you your face-climbing fix.
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Anyone know what Two Tier/The Embankment will be like after the recent rain? Seepy/non-seepy? May possibly head over this weekend for a change of scene.
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Had a wander down there today - Two Tier, Embankment & Max's all dry. Cornice - Everything right of R'n'P dry (R'n'P itself looked dry, except the start).
Also for Bonjoy :) The Ogre had just a small wet patch on it - from across the river it looked well climbable. Don't quote me on that though! ;)
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Was the right hand side of Two Tier dry as well ? ie Spizz Energy side
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As far as i could see it all looked bone.
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OK cheers
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Had a wander down there today - Two Tier, Embankment & Max's all dry. Cornice - Everything right of R'n'P dry (R'n'P itself looked dry, except the start).
Also for Bonjoy :) The Ogre had just a small wet patch on it - from across the river it looked well climbable. Don't quote me on that though! ;)
Nice one JC. Give me a PM if you fancy going down there soon (I get lots of days off midweek now BTW). I'm keen to get back on my proj and the Ogre.
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Was at the embankment yesterday afternoon in between the downpours. There are bits of seepage starting to show through on Stone the Loach and Sturgeon. Looking across the river the Spizz/Spazz area was seeping heavily and the break in the upper tier of two was seepy. With the forecast looking very mixed for the week it's likely to get wetter... :thumbsdown:
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I was down cheedale yesterday. Stone the loach and sturgeon both had a lot of seepage on them. The whole of the embankment had a lot of run off. Two tier was far better better however. Pretty much everything from entree to quality control was dry, although quality control and the routes to the right were very wet at the top. The left hand section of sector nadin was dry, although the right hand part had a lot of seepage on it.
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2 Tier and the embankment were largely dry on sunday bar the odd spoodgey pocket so probably even better by now. The only wet routes were Lightweight and Nogads/Blockhead but I imagine even they might be OK now.
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Yesterday two tier was covered in small but significant patches of wet but they were drying up in the day. Embankment left side, Stone the Loach etc, also had wet patches. Nadin and Long wall were the same. Max was dry.
After today's sun they might be dry.
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I was on Stone the Loach on sunday and every hold on the route was dry despite the wet patch low down - it didn't interfere with any of the holds.
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well there you go, looks can be deceptive 8)
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Embankment pretty much all dry tonight. Touches of dampness on some holds around the break on various routes but nothing to worry about.
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Me and Martin walked down to the Cornice this morning. It's still wet but the RHS for Mandy, Cordless etc. looked almost climbable; the 7a trio in the middle weere getting there but will need a few days yet. That Was The River, Snails etc were running with water but the roofs at the LH weren't dripping and looking promising.
Nettle Butttress, Two Tier, Max's and Embankment all dry with lots of routes cleaned and seeing ascents.
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Nettle Butttress, Two Tier, Max's and Embankment all dry with lots of routes cleaned and seeing ascents.
Did you notice whether the trad on Nettle Buttress (e.g. Summer Wine) were looking clean? Never visited that buttress before...
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Ah, just noticed this thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.60.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.60.html)
Interested to hear though what the best routes are on Nettle But...
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Hi Tom..
I'd get someone to give them a good brush if you are planning an onsight, the whole buttress was very dusty. Summer Wine looks great..
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Cornice looking worse than two weeks ago thanks to last weeks big rain, most stuff wet. The notable exceptions being Unleashing, Love Among the Butterflies and the two warm-up 7as on the far right.
Had gone down there with the intention of getting on the Ogre on Chee Tor but this was wet.
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Planning on heading to Cheedale this evening, possibly to get on Sirplum, anyone been recently who can report on conditions (also any other HVS-E1's and upto 6c route recommendations that I might have a remote chance of dragging my sorry arse up!!)
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Sirplum certainly looked bone dry the last few times I've walked past. It doesn't take any drainage that I recall.
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Cool, cheers JB, thats at least one route for this evening :thumbsup:
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If you like Sirplum, you'll love the Super Indirect, though at E1 4c,5a,4b,4c,5a,5b it might be best saved for the weekend...
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What a route. Take some Haribo.
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Super Indirect sounds amusing.
Cheers for the tip Cofe, will stock up on Haribo, they're on offer at £0.59 at my local shop.
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From On Peak Rock:
A stupendous integrale offering some of the most mind-boggling positions in The Peak at this grade. Both members of the party should be capable of leading E1, even (or particularly) when gripped stupid.
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From On Peak Rock:
Both members of the party should be capable of leading downclimbing E1, even (or particularly) when gripped stupid.
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Did Sirplum on sunday and it's bone dry. It's great apart from the jungle-thrash to get off (take your trainers with you)
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Did Sirplum on sunday and it's bone dry. It's great apart from the jungle-thrash to get off (take your trainers with you)
Handy tip there, duly noted and trainers will be taken :thumbsup:
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Anyone been to the cornice lately?
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I doubt it's dealling with this humidity well. Last time I walked past (Saturday) it was mostly wet with the usual exceptions on the RH end of the crag. Once this humidity breaks, assuming no major rain bombs, it should get better quickly as there is little seepage in the pipeline.
If you're looking for shady sport route alternatives to the tor/rubicon in this hot weather you could try bits on Chee Tor, Nettle Buttress or Long Tor Quarry. A lot of the steeper places are suffering badly with condensation, although it sounds like the WCJ Cornice is just about climbable.
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Despite the noise I made the other we ended up not going due to the showers that passed over Tuesday so I can't comment I'm afraid.
Roaches was nice last night though :)
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Cornice gopping last night. Never seen it so wet. Powerplant wet, even the 6c+ warm up with the nasty crimp move at the start looked wet.
So... http://www.hss.com/g/59286/High-Pressure-Jetter-5000-Psi.html (http://www.hss.com/g/59286/High-Pressure-Jetter-5000-Psi.html) anyone??
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We often joke about this but I'd happily throw in 20 quid or more to share the rental. I'm not sure what the environmental/reputation concerns might be though if this was bought up at a BMC meeting given the anxiety over ivy removal at Stoney..
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I'd happily throw in 20 quid or more to share the rental
So would I.
I'm not sure how easy it would be to get down the dale tho'
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...probably blast all the holds off...
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I have actually looked into the idea. You could run the water feed straight from the river. It wouldn't be too hard, just a lot of heavy fetching and carrying. If the crag owners could be brought onboard (pretty doubtfull!!) you might even get permission to drive down the tunnels, hence making the gear lift a LOT easier. Last year I expended a load of effort carting a bunch of bolting gear down to stash at the Cornice, only for the crag to get terminally wet again and have to expend a load more effort a week later bringing it all back out again without bolting a single route!
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You would also need, as this is a SSSI, permission from Natural England. Might be possible but I wouldn't like to be the one doing the asking...
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(http://www.herbsandheirlooms.com/newage/coffinnails.JPG)
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I know this is largely comedy musings but if someone really did want to power wash part of a (suitable) crag I have a petrol power washer that they would be welcome to borrow, it's not as big as the one linked above but is pretty easy to drag around on a couple of wheels and seem plenty powerful enough to me (cleans up gravestones a treat). Not sure if it can suck water out of a barrel/river or whether it needs a water supply with head (oo-err), I'll check when I get home.
So if you're serious then ask the people you need to ask...
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To be honest I doubt it would be worth the asking. I don't think it would cause much damage to plant life if restricted to the routes themselves excluding the first and last metre or so, I just think the powers that be wouldn't like the 'sound' of the idea.
Does Cornice alien-jelly-fruit count as a plant? Infact I've no idea what it is, animal, vegetable or mineral. Any know what the hell it is??
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Well the offers there if anyone wants to take it up.
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I just think the powers that be wouldn't like the 'sound' of the idea.
Exactly my thoughts. I think you'd have to time it very carefully for word not to get back to them though, hardly a subtle operation. The problem with doing it low key is if they do find out you could fuck up some good relationships.
Isn't the Cornice one of the spots that is owned privately rather than DWT though? Checked the maps on their site but they've replaced the nice commissioned ones with googledrivel.
Alien-jelly-fruit - slime mould?
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Yeah DWT own the far right hand end which is pretty scrappy and under a voluntary climbing ban, but not the main bit. But they do have interest and strong opinions on all the crags in the dale, so it’d be likely to piss them off either way.
Slime mould seems a likely possibility but not like any others I’ve seen.
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A few years back a gang of us removed a load of sycamores from the right and left hand ends of the crag (with permission from the landowner & DWT). The chainsaw ran out of juice and we ran out of time to tackle the middle section. I am sure it made a big difference. Also vegetation returned to the scree slope below K3. If somehow the left hand end ever dried out long term, I would be the first to get stuck into a new line.
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Generally suffering from the recent heavy rain. Powerplant nearly dry. Everything right of RnP dry (LAtB, Unleashing, etc). Everything else in varying states of wetness.
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Virtually everything has some level of wetness. Worst it's been for ages.
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Boo hiss. Thanks for checking Beejoy. Guess I should take Cry Of Despair off the potential list.
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A tale of two halves down t'dale today. The Embankment and Max's were both gopping with seepage and condensation at teatime today. Across the river there was seepage from Lightweight (bollocks), Daylight, Why Me when we first got there. The sun came out and it was roasting and very humid and desperate to climb but once the sun dipped it was OK if still a little humid. Two Tier had pretty much dried out by the time we left. The embankment was still very seepy though, a big wet patch on Sturgeon (double bollocks) and wetness on Secret Gudgeon, Stone, Mind and Beef It. Hopefullly the next few days will see some dryness...
Two lads climbing near us said that Chee Tor was gopping with condensation..
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Anyone got any idea is Max's will be dry this evening?
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It rained in the High Peak until lunchtime but the sun is now out and it's blowing a hoolie with no further rain forecast. I would have said, yes it'll almost certainly be dry.
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Anyone been down lower Cheedale recently? Even the Cornice must be getting pretty dry after several weeks of virtually no rain. :-\
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The cornice is looking extremely good at the minute, touch wood. Pretty much everything to the right of Clarion Call is dry at the moment, but obviously very dirty! Even the left hand side is looking promising, Nemesis looked about 75% dry! Not far off do-able. Also stuff like Masculine Power Trip are nearly there. I really hope it doesn't crap it down soon and soak everything for the rest of the year! :wall:
Just needs more psyched people to clean stuff up!
Some clean routes at the moment:- Powerplant (cleaned & re-bolted), Unleashing the Wild Physique (clean again, and very good!).
The Nook is dry as well & Chee Tor also all bone (including the Ogre).
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Some clean routes at the moment:- Powerplant (cleaned & re-bolted)
Well done whoever re-bolted Powerplant - did it a few years ago and it was well worrying.
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Martial Music and Clarion Call had a few ascents yesterday. Also people on Cordless, Powerplant, and R n P.
The Ogre has had ascents lately as well.
Like John said eveything right of Martial Music is bone dry, and plenty of stuff getting cleaned up.
Just needs some more traffic.
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More folk on the Cornice last night. Take yer brushes though - definitely suffering from being out all of last year.
Ogre got more cleaning and is pretty clean. Excellent route.
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Good to see crowds at the Cornice this weekend. Let’s hope the drying continues.
Basically the left half of the crag still has some way to go but the right is almost all climable with a fair few things having been cleaned up and a couple of things rebolted:
Nemesis – Partly cleaned but not yet fully dry.
Cry of Despair – Still partly wet but has had some attention so partly clean
Martial Music and Clarion call – Dry and clean(ish)
Armictice Day and Who’s Line – Just about dry enough to climb but no one has been up yet and hence still filthy
Bored of the Lies – Clean and chalked
Four Door and Powerplant – Clean, chalked and re-bolted thanks to Jon Clark
Devonshire Arms – Needs cleaning and re-bolting, but dry
K3 – Partially cleaned, good bolts
RnP – Clean and chalked
Love Among the Butterflies – Clean
Unleashing – Clean and chalked
Cordless and Cosmopolitan – Clean and chalked
Everything further right dry, some stuff clean and chalked including 7as on the far right.
Went on the Ogre (only just noticed this is an anagram of FA’s surname). Excellent route definitely worth getting on. Great rock and climbing after a slightly scrappy disposable start. Lank alert – the crux , if you can reach, is a steady reach of good footholds and an undercut to a good hold; if you can’t reach it’s a whole different ball game and makes the route a good deal harder (pull on tiny sharp hold or slap off tiny flake to sloper off poor footholds!)
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Lank alert – the crux , if you can reach, is a steady reach of good footholds and an undercut to a good hold
I'll bring these.
(http://www.carnivalsource.com/images/StPattys%202007/MX28.jpg)
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Like the FA says (you might need to be logged in to rockarchivist to view image):
(http://www.rockarchivist.co.uk/NRB/StoneyMiddletonNRB/1986/StoneyNRB1986a-0046.jpg)
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Yeah, Ogre is super reachy isn't it. 3 long moves though all off the left arm, so I'm not counting my chickens. Keen to get back on it. Great to try a vertical route at this sort of grade that doesn't have mingin holds or polished footholds.
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main area from Martial Music right all dry today (sat 29) save for a little run-off on CC & routes R of Unleashing. CoD area dryer than last sat too. Where was everyone? The works? :shrug:
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Anybody got an up-to-the-minute report on how the Cornice is looking?
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Looking good
Was down Monday and going again later today.
Jon Clarke has now also rebolted Devonshire Arms (the guy deserves super-wadding) and is aiming to rebolt all the classic routes on the right and is I believe armed by the Peak Bolt Fund.
Much of the left is still dirty and damp though Nemesis has seen a bit of attention.
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Can't comment on the nick as it was my first time down this year but conditions were pretty good overall.
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Cheers gents.
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Uber busy down here today, the place just keeps getting drier. Props to Jon for all the re-bolting and good effort to whoever has cleaned most of Nemesis off too! Tried it today, such a brilliant route. Will be back to give the bottom section a bit more of a clean next week.
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Cry of despair now clean enough to do (did it yesterday). Good effort whoever started the cleaning on this. left it quite chalked so get on it whilst the opportunity is there. The bolts aren't as bad as the look from the floor: first 2 are new, 3rd looks old from floor but is actually pretty new, 4th is a bit rusty but ok, 5th is new, 6th is a bit rusty but ok, then round the big overhang on the main face the only gear is a peg, wouldn't want to fall on this but it held bodyweight, the climbing here is really easy and if the peg where to rip you would be ok. Belay is good.
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Cry of despair now clean enough to do (did it yesterday). Good effort whoever started the cleaning on this.
I saw PW 'scrubbing' this the other day, so effort on his part. Can someone start scrubbing TRW for me? 8)
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Cry of despair now clean enough to do (did it yesterday). Good effort whoever started the cleaning on this. left it quite chalked so get on it whilst the opportunity is there. The bolts aren't as bad as the look from the floor: first 2 are new, 3rd looks old from floor but is actually pretty new, 4th is a bit rusty but ok, 5th is new, 6th is a bit rusty but ok, then round the big overhang on the main face the only gear is a peg, wouldn't want to fall on this but it held bodyweight, the climbing here is really easy and if the peg where to rip you would be ok. Belay is good.
Not sure who did this half arse re-bolt job. Certainly it's a classic route and crying out for a complete re-bolt with resins. Wish I had the time to do it myself! BTW if anyone out there with the knowhow is keen to assist Jon Clark with his one man mission to re-bolt the Cornice drop me a PM.
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Certainly it's a classic route and crying out for a complete re-bolt with resins. Wish I had the time to do it myself! BTW if anyone out there with the knowhow is keen to assist Jon Clark with his one man mission to re-bolt the Cornice drop me a PM.
Come on Peakies, I can't believe how popular the crag was last Thursday - and yet what a poor state many of the bolts are in. Great effort by JC on his sterling work, can't someone join in with him though? Nik and I will gladfully sort out a couple of the nook problems btw BJ, I can see why no-one bothers with those anymore. Even if folk can't (or won't) bolt, at least take a good brush down to help out.
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Yeah, where’s your fucking Dunkerque spirit? Bunch of spongers the lot of you (with a handful of exceptions)! ;)
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where’s your fucking Dunkerque spirit
Shit, I didn't realise they were all still stuck down there. I've got an inflatable in the cellar, I'll float em out.
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Bonjoy have sent you a PM (or think i have) re: cornice rebolt
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Anybody think it'll be worth the drive from Sheffield tomorrow night for a session on the embankment or two tier?
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Anybody think it'll be worth the drive from Sheffield tomorrow night for a session on the embankment or two tier?
Well its not a million miles.....
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Seepage unlikely to be a problem. Run off from the top might be if it has been or is raining heavily
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Cheers, might give it a try in that case if the rain isn't so bad overnight.
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Cry of despair...
Not sure who did this half arse re-bolt job. Certainly it's a classic route and crying out for a complete re-bolt with resins. Wish I had the time to do it myself! BTW if anyone out there with the knowhow is keen to assist Jon Clark with his one man mission to re-bolt the Cornice drop me a PM.
Cry of Despair has always had crap gear - at least it had when I did it about 15 years ago! Great shame, as it is very good climbing.
BJ - I realise family commitments have somewhat curtailed your free time, but have you managed to get the Peak Bolt Fund drill out to some of the guys who have got time at the moment? Doing a comprehensive re-bolting exercise on The Cornice was exactly the sort of project I envisaged for this, but unfortunately the weather has got in the way in recent years. It is great that JC is getting stuck in, but it sounds like he is concentrating on the harder routes which he wants to do - which is obviously completely understandable.
I've actually done all the easier routes at The Cornice (up to 7c) including lots that haven't been done for many years now, but I would like the chance to climb some of the easiest again.
However, this depends on
1 - the weather playing ball
2 - someone doing the honours with the drill....
Cheers
Neil
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Last year I rebolted Cosmopolitan/Cordless Madness, but as you know, up until recently the majority of the quality easier stuff hasn’t been dry since the PBF came into being. Certainly the bit between CoD andUne Crime Passionel hasn’t been dry at all and wasn’t dry yet when I went there the other week.
After posting on here the other day I’ve had a number of offers of help from folk who sound like they can be trusted to do a good job. So I’m fairly confident that if the crag continues to stay dry a good amount of stuff will get re-equipped including the sub 7c stuff.
More generally the drill could have seen greater use, but that is partly because most of the folk who’ve re-bolted stuff using PBF resources already had access to a drill.
Fingers crossed for the weather.
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Was down there yesterday. Quite a bit more has dried since my last visit. Extra stuff now dry:
Armistice Day, Who’s Line is it Anyway. Most of the routes between Une Crime Passionel and That was the River, though some still have wet patches and all are V dirty. Cry of Despair, Nemesis, Rapid City, This is the Sea. Some stuff on the far left now probably dry enough. Monumental is not far off being dry enough, though needs a clean to aid drying!
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The drying continues. Almost everything dry enough to do now except for Monumental, Wright to Left, Taylor Made, Jug Jockey and some of the easier ones around Spiders from Mars.
Whose Line has been re-bolted by Useless Punter (UKB moniker not a comment on ability!). The two dodgy bolts on Bored of the Lies have been replaced. Still a fair bit of tidying up of old bolts on rebolted stuff to be done. As removing bolts is not that technical or safety critical it’s a good way for folk without bolting skills to do their bit. Just bring a ratchet and sockets, a weighty hammer, a short crowbar if you have one and if all else fails Kris has a cordless angle grinder he might be pursued to lend out.
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Monumental looks like it might dry up pretty quickly once given a thorough (massive) clean to get rid of that sponge like layer of chee-smeg that seems to hold the moisture?
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JC mentioned he might bite the bullet this Sunday!
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Whose Line... now fully cleaned and climbable. Good effort for rebolting it.
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Monumental Armblaster received a monumental clean today.
I only went to 2/3 height. The top wall looked pretty good already.
Still needs a few days to properly dry out now the smeg has been removed.
Needless to say the bolts are shite and in dire need of replacing...JC?
Please form an orderly queue :)
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Saw JC on Monumental yesterday. He’s done some additional cleaning to the first 2/3 and has bolted this section. Top third still to be cleaned and bolted, plus old bolts yet to be removed.
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Heading there today for a play. Whats the best place to park, as the guide isn't totally clear.
Also anyone know if the A6 is open again. Was closed a while back. Though i guess you Sheff guys wont be coming that way...
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On the bend at Wormhill
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=wormhill&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=11.614771,28.081055&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Wormhill,+Buxton,+Derbyshire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.262595,-1.816134&spn=0,0.043774&t=h&z=15&layer=c&cbll=53.262534,-1.815993&panoid=oqmhL2c7yQHif5WIkXZT-w&cbp=12,302.92,,0,5 (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=wormhill&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=11.614771,28.081055&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Wormhill,+Buxton,+Derbyshire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.262595,-1.816134&spn=0,0.043774&t=h&z=15&layer=c&cbll=53.262534,-1.815993&panoid=oqmhL2c7yQHif5WIkXZT-w&cbp=12,302.92,,0,5)
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Heading there today for a play. Whats the best place to park, as the guide isn't totally clear.
Also anyone know if the A6 is open again. Was closed a while back. Though i guess you Sheff guys wont be coming that way...
A6 is open.
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Anyone been today or care to give an opinion? I know the walk in will be slippy and I'll no doubt die walking in by falling in the river or something...
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Asside from muddy feet and maybe a bit of run off then it will be fine. Plenty to do so long as your not set on one route. The same is true for the other crags too.
In wet weather then approach from topley pike is much less muddy...
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Hi there,
How is the cornice looking for the next few days? Will be going down from Glasgow and hoping the conditions will be good ;D.
Cheers
Mike.
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The top of the routes between War Memorial and Whose line were getting wet in the rain the other night. Its absolutely tipped it down today and the weather isn't great either... I think runoff from the top might have become a much bigger problem since then but probably won't be affecting the steeper sections. Other people can probably offer a better opinion.
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I was at the Embankment this evening and it was dry until the heavens opened at 20:15.
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The walk in will be a mudbath and the top bit of some of the easier routes might be wet if it is raining persistently or has rained heavily in the past few hours, but in the main it's safe bet that most routes will be dry. Six months of drying doesn't get undone by two days of patchy rain.
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If people are popping in on thur night (Mr Sloe) then I'd be V.grateful of a conditions report as I hope to pop in on Fri morning.
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Anyone going tomorrow (Friday)? I'm free from 9 till about 2.
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Anyone going tomorrow (Friday)? I'm free from 9 till about 2.
I think I'll be there mark, probs not till 10.30 - 11.
Conditions fine as of this evening on everything.
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Bl*ody ell Paul, can't get enough of it. I reckon it'll be seeping through next week at this rate. The clock ticks for those with projects :(
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Bl*ody ell Paul, can't get enough of it. I reckon it'll be seeping through next week at this rate. The clock ticks for those with projects :(
Woke up sore so I'm probably being a bit too enthusiastic.
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Still dry today and plenty of people out.
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im guessing its still dry down at the cornice but thought i'd double check, particularly interested in whether there's any run-off on cosmo. and cordless madness.
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They were both dry as of yesterday, and everything else down there.
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Was down today - everything feeling pretty damp, but more from hyper-humidity than seepage. Unleashing and cordless pretty damp looking at the top. That was the river damp at the start. Stuff down by monumental gopping (condensation). Walk in from wormhill: totally miserable!
There was no breeze to speak of, although it was marginally better early afternoon, and there was a red-point of powerplant. Should be better if the humidity drops and breeze picks up.
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Walk in from wormhill: totally miserable!
Was more of a glissade when I tried it yesterday evening but I made it alive so musn't grumble.
Conditions got worse if anything and everyone except us sacked it off before dark.
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Walk in from wormhill: totally miserable!
Probably worth wearing walkingboots / wellies and taking a stick, either that or a sledge :thumbsup:
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Conditions got worse if anything and everyone except us sacked it off before dark.
And to think you could have had equally wank nick without the long walk-in at the Tor. Its the thinking man's crag for bad conditions.
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Walk in from wormhill: totally miserable!
Probably worth wearing skis, either that or a sledge
Fixed that for you ;D
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You can walk in from Wormhill and avoid the worst of the mud - in fact it was the original way I used before the cut thru following the stream was really used.
Instead of turning sharp right thru the trees and down the bank carry on down the field slightly up then back down looking for a walkers gate after 100-150 yards. This will take you back right across/down the hill along a (now) overgrown and narrow path and connect back to the main path about 50 yards before you would normally connect with it.
That's probably as clear as errr mud.
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Quite nice down there today, especialy when the wind got up a bit, most stuff looked to have dried out although there was a bit of gloop around on the less travelled stuff we tried (That was the river and at the top of Unleashing).
Walk in still awful of course, boots and a stick certainly help and maybe spare/over trousers for when you do end up on your arse.
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(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4814289121_568cdbd8c9.jpg)
The approach mud... Had a good week here, despite terrible conditions on our last day. Would be an excellent crag to have nearby, jealous!
Mike
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To be fair the walk in/out was quite different from ~10am - ~3pm.
It seemd to me that anything relatively clean was unaffected (apart from the top of some routes which catch drainage). Anything less than spotless was clinging onto moisture and making things feel far from ideal. Undercutting anything left you at severe risk of punching yourself in the face.
(This place does have some cracking routes!)
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At t'other end o'dale. Max's was weeping in the central area in several points. The Embankment was mostly dry but felt damp around the main break and the tops were a bit smeggy. Two Tier was all very dry. Conditions not great with high humidity.
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Anyone been to the Cornice recently and able to provide an update as to whether many of the easier routes are clean/dry? I'm particularly interested in Clarion Call.
Ta. Luke.
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Not been since sunday but I can guarantee it will be dry. Take your wellies.
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Still dry as of last nite - crag that is not the walk-in...
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You can walk in from Wormhill and avoid the worst of the mud - in fact it was the original way I used before the cut thru following the stream was really used.
Instead of turning sharp right thru the trees and down the bank carry on down the field along the track slightly up then back down. As it narrows to a path carry on down for another 30 yards or so and cut back right on a path and follow this for 100 yards looking for a walkers gate after 100-150 yards. This will continue takeing you back right across/down the hill along a (now) overgrown and narrow path and connect back to the main path about 50 yards before you would normally connect with it.
That's probably as clear as errr mud.
I realised my original description was a bit misleading walking in today. Duly amended above. Sorry if it bamboozled anyone.
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Anyone been there today?
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Bit greasy yesterday evening. Few damp patches at left side in places. MA had a few wet streaks. Generally dry though.
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Thanks. Just about everything bone dry.
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Would like to spread my incompetence further afield this weekend, commitments mean it has to be sunday, any reports up till then would be much appreciated.
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If its got through the last fortnight okay I think you can forget seepage, and given the forecast condensation looks unlikely (wind, no large temp changes). So all you need to worry about is the muddiness of the path. Approach from Topley Pike and you can ignore that too...
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... or use the Shark's super duper non-muddy red point succesful long short cut by continuing down the main path from Wormhill after the first right and then cutting back right after 100m. Apologies if you are just trying to leave more parking space for yourself at Wormhill JB, but somehow I doubt it?
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Reckon theres still a good chance of dryness tomorrow despite Rubicon and the Tor being wet?
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Some guys I bumped into at the Tor had been there this morning and said it was also wet.
It's probably all just condensation though so could dry out if it's fresh and there's a breeze.
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Routes were pretty much all still dry yesterday (Sunday 22 Aug) but the walk in was very muddy
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Anybody been down in the last day or so?
We were thinking of maybe heading over tomorrow as the forecast is good but were worried about seepage after all the rain...
Cheers Dave
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Was totally mint yesterday. Very dry with strong, cold westerly wind blowing along the crag. Would be very surprised if it gets wet this week.
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Dry again this evening (walk in still muddy!)
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Thanks for that, might check it out tomorrow.
Dave
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Word is that it was minging down there this morning according to those on the way back up as we were on the way down. Lot of run-off, misty and condensation
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Some seepage on the crag today - Taylor Made, Monumental, Last Eggs, Old Man River and Snails all had some seepage on them. The Nook was also minging, looked like seepage as well :(
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Anyone been down yesterday? Does Powerplant still look dry? Was thinking of heading over tomorrow.
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Was there today and all stuff still in good nick, apart from a few things around This is the River, and Taylor Made which has a lot of water running off. Powerplant and the rest all good though. The Nook however is soaked!
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Thanks for your reply - it was still in reasonable condition yesterday in powerplant area - most of the rest not good and Baltic temperatures
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Anyone been down today? I'm particularly interested in Powerplant.
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Clarion Call Rightwards all dry.
The river area was like a rive, but Cry of Despair was dry, Roof Warior looks to have damp holds but maybe climbable.
Further down Taylor made was dripping, Monumental wet in part, Neisis dry but Christian's route had a wet hold aparently. Jug Jockey looked to be getting wet too.
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It wasn't too warm either, down jacket and gloves wouldn't go a miss.
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Anyone been down there this week?
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FYI this weekend and all that. Chee dale cornice looking pretty good. All dry from; Adventures in Greendale to Love Amongst the Butterflies. Then still some damp slime all along under the R'n'P/K3 roof, the kind of thing that would probably dry in a day or two if it were brushed away. Four Dour Dostovky totally dry. Then some wetness. Then Martial music and Clarion Call all dry.
Dont forget your big brush
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From experience what happens next is this. Everyone waits for someone else to do the cleaning work. The spring dry snap passed with nowt getting done because it's still dirty, then it pisses it down all summer. ;D
...or someone proves me wrong. :jab:
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On passing the cornice earlier, I went to the top of Powerplant. I can confirm it is all dry, but filthy of course. I'll hopefully get back there in the next week or two with a decent size brush. But otherwise it is all starting to look quite promising.
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Went down Cheedale yesterday and gave Powerplant a scrub.
Still a few smeggy holds but it's OK on the whole.
Get to it...
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Brilliant, cheers Pete!
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Any updates? Thinking of heading over Monday.
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Anyone been today? Specifically, is Bricktop dry?
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Yes, and no. You know the hold has broken right? Bottom bit wet until overlap, probably ok thereafter. People on routes from martial rightwards, lower wall of anything left wet, but getting there
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Which hold???
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The big chipped crimp thing on the bottom wall, on the bit it shares with nemesis. Sure there will be a way to climb it without
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The skiad one for LH that you go out to then up off? Would be bloody hard without that surely?
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Naah, it's the right hand grifter that you use to get out left to the one I think you're on about. Certainly will be a bit harder, yes
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Bugger, wonder when that broke. Was there any chalk on it? I doubt anyone was on it last year!
Was there any remaining bits lying around on the ground? I thought that would take some hard pulling to take that hold off. No ones been down there this winter with their axes have they?
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October 2011 from the looks of this beast : http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17354.msg333318#msg333318 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17354.msg333318#msg333318)
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No ones been down there this winter with their axes have they?
Was there today, but minus axes. Although during an absent moment I admit to thinking how similar the cornice looks to some bolted M-style crags in Switzerland.
Lots of dry routes right of Martial.
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Still pretty wet on left half of crag but might dry with a few more dry days. Saw the rock scar on nemesis, but can't work out which hold has gone. Both the right hand 'launch' crimp and the big left hand incut 'catch' crimp seemed to be there.
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October 2011 from the looks of this beast : http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17354.msg333318#msg333318 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17354.msg333318#msg333318)
So you are actually talking about a completely different hold then if that is your source. If you read on it transpires to be a hold just off the deck on Monumental.
I saw Roy getting past this section at the end of that season. Although it is a bit harder there is the knee bar rest to come so won't change the grade at all.
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Ah shit, well i don't know then. perhaps we are all at cross purposes? I thought it looked like the rock scar WAS the right hand 'launch' hold, but if you can see it - then that's great! Especially if Roy was able to climb past it, although - bearing in mind who we are speaking about and their capability, then perhaps we shouldn't read too much into that!
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Was down there yesterday and it is looking much better in general. Left hand section still wet but routes around clarion call are dry but dirty. Clarion Call itself is now clean. Bored of the lies got an ascent and looked clean. Chalk and people on PowerPlant.
Went on K3 with another guy and cleaned it all up - initially a bit damp but now in good nick. Don't know how this weather will affect it though...
Dave
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Sounds like theres two holds gone on Nemesis, one close to the deck, one at the jumpy bit. The jumpy bit one didnt look to be crucial.
Bored of the lies is clean, i gave it a scrub on monday.
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The only real hold that anybody used was the one left of the first bolt. It was a good layaway that most people would grab with their right hand and cross through into the groove to the big undercut or the Vulcan hold. There are quite a few alternative options left anyway. The little flakes higher up were the sort of thing people would try to use without the correct beta or in plain desperation!
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Cleaned up cordless tonight if anyone wants to get on it :-)
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Gave Devonshire a brush yesterday. Powerplant & K3 covered in chalk. R&P very dry too. Everything left of Martial Music wet. I suspect the keen and willing could make it up the slightly damp start of Roof Warrior.
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Martial music is dry and clompletely clean now bar a bit of smeg in one pocket, hats off to mark for cleaning el crime, great moves on the lower wall, get on it whilst its still got his wires in the top, hoping to clean up Fay later in the week.
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Was down there this evening, mostly still good except the undercuts are starting to seep on K3, also some the upper wall is getting dripped on a bit. Powerplant still fine, and the right hand side (Cordless etc) has surprisingly little run off. Martial, Clarion, Big Zipper, Bored, Oujiboard, are all dry and clean
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Does anyone know if Devonshire Arms has lost any holds? Has it had meany ascents recently?
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I don't think it has lost any holds. It just has not got enough of them. For me it is a grade harder than all the other 8a+'s and should really revert back to its origanal grade of 8b. I don't know exactly why and who downgraded it in the first place!
I know Paul B did it in 2011 and found it ok.
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Sam Cattell did it year before last and thought 8b.
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We (me and the Weasel) did the 2nd and 3rd ascents of this i think. Ben was also trying it at the time and had this jumping sequence which was nails. We used some cheeky high heel. I just remember it being bouldery, though that is soooo long ago. Both first go. We thought 8a+ at the time...peak grades are hard arent they?
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Thanks for that.
It was a mate who was trying it, he seemed to think an undercut at the crux had come off or gotten smaller since he first tried it a few years back. He walked up the top section. Just sounds like it's got a brick crux then.
:strongbench:
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Met two fellas in the car park today who said it was seeping again (mid section, K3 area) and top of clarion was soaked..... Not good as it was looking okay last night as mark did bored. Was going to have a look but ran out of time and it was raining hard again!
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Had a quick look this afternoon - patches of damp on most things, some stuff soaked.
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Checked out the Cornice last night and can confirm the it is knackered, couldn't see one climable route, even the far right hand routes (Cosmo etc) affected by seepage/streaks and the centre and left hand routes should only be attempted in a canoe :(
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Anyone know if two tier is fairing any better?
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Two Tier basically fine last night. The odd slightly damp pocket but perfectly climbable.
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cheers :)
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Did the round this evening-
Cordless Madness rightwards looked dry. Stuff to the left looked fairly damp.
Powerplant dry-ish, top wall looks OK, but a bit smeggy in places low down. Looked workable.
Bored/Zipper stuff very wet in the middle section.
Clarion Call, undercuts wet around the first roof but OK other than that.
Martial Music looked surprisingly dry, perhaps a bit smeggy around one or two holds but definately looked climbable.
Everything further left pretty wet.
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Looked in on the way back from 2 tier today. Generally getting there - clarion/martial looked ok, bored looked maybe ok maybe a bit damp up high. k3, powerplant etc looked ok to work but maybe a bit damp to do, hard to tell though. On the left most stuff was damp but gran techo looked almost doable. I suspect if it stays dry this week it'll be good to go next weekend.
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Was down Cheedale yesterday and can report that the Cornice is now ..... back in play ! Well, mostly, everything baring a couple of routes right of Martial Music is essentially dry if a little dirty. Left of Martial Music there is the odd route that is climbable, for example, Roof Warrior looked pretty dry but the routes arround it were still goping. Get to it!
As for the rest of Cheedale ... it's all dry and reasonably clean, the odd damp pocket here and there but even long wall is looking pretty good.
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Apologies for being naive. Weather looks cack on Sunday. So I just wondered whether the routes are still climbable in variable weather? Don't mind getting a bit damp on the walk in.
Jim
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Yep they're mostly fine in the rain, steep enough with capping roofs
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You should be fine beast.
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Succubus, Martial Music, Clarion Call, Big Zipper and Bored of the Lies all got ascents yesterday.
Hopefully it will survive the weekends rain
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All looking pretty good last night. Some wetness on the left but apparently it looked dryer than the weekend when people were doing Roof Warrior & Cry of Despair so I guess those should be fine. Middle and RHS all dry just a bit dusty in places. Powerplant got done twice (not by me!) so should be cleanish.
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Was pretty good last night.
Stuff left of roof warrior drying out but will need a big clean (the sooner they're cleaned the sooner they'll be in good nick, especially with this weekend's weather looking so good!)
Take a big brush!!!
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Central 7s rightwards all dry/dryish and most things have now been cleaned to at least some extent. ON the left Techno Prisoners/Gran Techo and Roof warrior both dry/clean enough to do, just some dampness, cry of despair was getting some action today though still had some wetness. Nemesis etc getting there but need a proper clean.
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I took one for the team last night and started cleaning Nemesis. I wasn’t climbing so had to solo stick clip it, unfortunately after abbing down I realised it was too steep for me to get in to clean the bottom bit! But I’ve made a start on the top wall and the holds in the roof. There was a tiny tiny bit of spooge in one hold but its 99% dry. Although I may fetch down an extended broom and try to give the lower section a general scrub from the ground, I’m stuck into something else at the minute so probably won’t be back up the route to properly finish the job soon, hopefully someone else will.
Worth noting if anyone does go up there that the bolt in the roof could do with tightening up (M10 nut), also that the 2nd to last bolt is of a vintage variety and although there’s probably nowt wrong with it it could do with updating. Again I am happy to do these myself but only when I start trying the route which could be a while yet.
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How sweaty was it down there last night Nige?
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Hard to say actually Tom as I wasn’t climbing. Lets just say it wasn’t bad, in that it wasn’t condensed at all, rock was bone. However it wasn’t good, in that there was not a breath of wind and it was just straight up hot. For me personally think it would be too sweaty for a move I find really hard, but I guess it depends what you want try? Looking at forecast, tomorrow and Thursday look slightly cooler.
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I counted 28 people down there at one point this evening.
Roof Warrior, Cry of Despair and That Was the River all getting climbed, Goldfish got cleaned & climbed, as did Crime Une Passionel which is now in a pretty good state, definately onsightable. Apparently Fey has been climbed but will need a good clean if you intend to lead it - I might get round to this on Thurs. War Memorial and pretty much everything else further right is clean and chalked
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Had a crag inspection last night. All usual suspects on the right were chalked and clean. K3 is cleaned up nicely. R and P was very dirty but is now seeing some traffic so hopefully can only improve.
Further left is a different story and although mostly dry, the crag appears to be covered in 2 years' worth of dried up gunk. Jug Jockey looked very dirty as did Taylor Made.
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Was down at the Cornice last night (after the deluge) and can report that it has survived remarkably well considering the amount of water that came down. A bit streaky left of Cry of Despair and a bit damp right of RnP but most of the main section still fairly dry. The humidity on the other hand ......
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would be keen for an update after the weekends rain.
gonna head down later so will report back anyhow!
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Hi Gus,
It was proper fooked yesterday. Run-off of some sort on every route.
I imagine that the RH routes (unleashing, butterflies etc) and possibly the RH roof will be OK today, but I can't see the LH roof (jug jockey etc) or nemesis area drying off until mid-week at the earliest.
Would be interested in updates if you check it out
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Cheers Stu.
Might give it a miss tonight then. Although if you don't go you won't know.......
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Did anyone go down yesterday? Just wondering if it is worth an after work visit tonight or not.
Thanks!
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Got a text from Nige who has been there today "...totally soaked, absolutely nothing even remotely climbable."
Bugger.
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Damn! How did that happen so quick? Thanks for the update Bonjoy.
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Went for a look today, pretty gopping unfortunateley! Nowt dry at all!
combination of run off, condensation and seepage.
It's not irreversible and could be sorted by 3 or 4 days of good hot breezy weather, so fingers crossed!!
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Had a quick look when passing with the kids today, couldn't really see anything climbable. Absolutely soaked on left, some dry patches of rock right of Clarion, and on right end. Wetter than I thought it would be.
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Anyone been down this week? Hoping to head down there this weekend or soon after if its not out for the count.
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A friend looked in on Wed eve - it's soaked. :thumbsdown:
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Had a walk down there today, the stuff right of r n p looked pretty dry though every route left of that seemed to have varying amounts of wetness, drying though.
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Had a good look on Sunday and it was definitely getting alot better. I reckon the last few days of good breezy weather may sort it soon.
Would be keen to know an update if anyone's heading down, my prediction was that there would be climbable routes down there from today.
Fingers crossed!!!
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Anyone got any knowledge from the last few days????
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Anyone got any knowledge from the last few days????
Hot off the press from today, think it needs a few more warm days yet:
Right hand end: Cordless / Cosmopolitan looked dry, might be the odd smeggy hold. Unleashing pre crux undercuts were wet.
Powerplant - R 'n' P - Patches of dryness but nothing that looked climbable.
Middle section - Again, various bits dry but nothing worth bothering with.
Left hand end - Cry / Roof Warrior / Jug Jockey had dry sections but definitely a few wet holds.
Nemesis etc - bottom still very wet.
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Nice work yo.
Sheee eee eeee eeeeeeeeet!
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Does anyone know if Powerplant's dry yet?
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Does anyone know if Powerplant's dry yet?
It looked pretty dry this morning. Headwall looked fine, starting holds all dry. Not sure about the undercuts but again they looked dry. Bearing in mind I wasn't climbing 'looked' is the operative word here.
Rest of the crag:
LHS - F**ked
Martial music looked dry enough, odd damp patch on Clarion Call. Armistice / Whose line looking damp.
Top bulge of big zipper / ouijaboard looked damp, might be OK with a bit of scrubbing though.
RHS - Cosmopolitan and Cordless looked dry. Unleashing might have been OK, hard to tell if the undercuts were damp.
In summary there looked to be about 4 climbable routes: Powerplant, Martial Music, Cordless and Cosmopolitan.
Be worth taking a brush if you do go down.
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Cheers for the regular updates Chris, keeping the faith! Would wad you if I could.
If anyone's keen for Powerplant drop me a PM, got some unfinished business with it! Thinking Monday could be good?
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Not looking too bad today though I think most routes left of unleashing will probably have the odd damp hold. Another week of good dry weather could sortb it out.
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Went down this afternoon for a look and found it virtually bone dry! Nemesis, Jug Jockey and Cry of Despair all definitely doable with a bit of a brush. Maybe few damp spots under the K3 bulge etc but everything else totally fine. Few dusty holds but apart from that its back in play.
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Martial music rightwards all dry today...we just did the mileage stuff.
Powerplant had some attention from another team.
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Update from yesterday, everything right of marshal music looked dry to me bit smeggy in places at breaks etc). Old man river had a bit of attention but there loomed to be some damp holds. Cry of despair undercut was very wet and that whole break was seeping a lot across and under roof warrior too, although all the actual holds I could see on roof warrior looked dry...couldn't tell about the ones in the roof.
Further left most routes have wet patches but some are dry...might be lucky if you take a towel.
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Went and had a look last night. Unfortunately despite the nice weather of late, the rain from last week has taken it's toll.
Left hand end totally scuppered. Middle section (bored of the lies, power plant, k3 etc) much damper than before. The right hand end from unleashing was still OK though.
All is definitely not lost as it was definitely getting there. Hopefully some warmer temps will give it that extra drying that it badly needs. I'll try and do some cleaning at some point.
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Dropped in for a quick look today, the only fully dry looking routes are Unleashing rightwards.
Leftward to around Martial Music is dry in places with streaks and seeps.
Left of that is pretty much blanket wetness.
Mostly dry forecast for a few weeks so maybe there's hope for the middle section
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Dropped in for a quick look today, the only fully dry looking routes are Unleashing rightwards.
Leftward to around Martial Music is dry in places with streaks and seeps.
Left of that is pretty much blanket wetness.
Mostly dry forecast for a few weeks so maybe there's hope for the middle section
I was just wondering about this myself, cheers for the update. C'mon weather!
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If you're psyched for routes on the central section you could do a lot worse than heading down on a rest day or whatever, stick clipping/jumaring up and giving them a good old scrub. Once the winter spooge/ dust is off they'll dry up a lot quicker!!
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If you're psyched for routes on the central section you could do a lot worse than heading down on a rest day or whatever, stick clipping/jumaring up and giving them a good old scrub. Once the winter spooge/ dust is off they'll dry up a lot quicker!!
I agree with this. Some years the only routes to dry properly are the ones that are cleaned. If you're psyched, dedicate a few hours with a scrubbing brush and some old clothes.
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You boys keep telling them pigs to fly. ;)
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A lot of things getting quite close as of yesterday. People reported Unleashing very nearly dry and the other RHS routes looked fine. I scrubbed Powerplant and actually managed to redpoint it, no wetness left after a good clean but some muck and damp on features you don't use. Looked like a few of the other routes on that bit to the right of PP like DA were also possible. Big zipper maybe a bit damp in the top overlap but might just need a scrub. Ouijaboard & Doetevsky looked at least workable. Martial looked dry whilst Clarion maybe still a little damp at the top bulge but again it might be just muck.
LHS generally still quite wet but drying out. Cry of Despair looked like there might just be a dry path through the wet but I didn't go up.
Most things need a good clean so take brushes but there's certainly stuff to go at. Conditions were actually primo yesterday, low temps and humidity. Fingers crossed it stays dry :bounce:.
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Stick that in yer pipe Nonjoy! :P
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Splendid, that was my hope all along. Classic good cop /bad cop. Someone was bound to react to one or the other ;)
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Powerplant gets cleaned every year.
The hard heroic work starts when you get stuck into a route with dodgy gear and 3+ years of gloop.
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As Alistair says, drying up. Unleashing and rightwards all good yesterday. Powerplant, oujiboard, clarion call and martial music looked good, armistice day also looked climbable. Big zipper bulge still wet and lhs very wet still, cry of despair close, but big undercut near the start is soaked.
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Martial Music is dry and has a bit of chalk on it. Clarion Call dry and chalked. Armstice & Whose Line both dry, the latter needs a good brush. Zipper and Bored dry, can't remember if they were chalked/cleaned or not though sorry. Oujibored dry and cleaned. Cosmo & Cordless seeing some action.
I cleaned the gunk off Old Man River, it need another going over in a few days when it drys off properly but will hopefully be a go-er by the weekend/early next week
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Bored had a little chalk but probably only one ascent. Apparently the top break is now dry but a bit dirty, just needs a scrub. We also cleaned succubus.
Nice one doing old man.
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Gave K3 a right good scrub this evening and all the holds a decent chalking. With another day or two it should be climbable by the strong!
If you're psyched then get yourselves on it, give it some more chalk and take a decent brush. Every little helps!!
Wouldn't have fancied Old Man River though, bit of chalk on it but it looked minging!
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K3 and Powerplant in mint condition today. Also gave "Rapid city" a brushing and chalking (anyone got any beta for this??). Well psyched for brushing scenes, more rewarding than climbing!!
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Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
Cry of Despair undercut looked about dry. Nemesis just about dry, but smeggy low down
Lots of action at The Nook too
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Well done to the cornice scrubbers, fair few routes to go at now, though the crag was pretty empty today. I'll try and get down there with my brush soon too.
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Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
Is this the big reach into a LH gaston, match and move out left?
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Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
Cry of Despair undercut looked about dry. Nemesis just about dry, but smeggy low down
Lots of action at The Nook too
did this last year. can't really remember but something like LH on a gaston, awkward fall into a match on the gaston. reach out left to something.
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Also gave "Rapid city" a brushing and chalking (anyone got any beta for this??). Well psyched for brushing scenes, more rewarding than climbing!!
All I can remember is it being ok for 8a once you figure the crux. It was mostly on undercuts just using the slopers to go again for better holds (sorry can't remember more detail than that). Could do with the loose flake in the top roof gluing so you could top it out as per the original ascent.
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Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
Just been on this, great job cleaning it, so here goes:
From hands in top of flake, RH out to undercut in overlap then LH to crimp just above. Sort feet then LH to gaston and RH to crimp. Move feet again so that LF is high and weight is on that & RH. Bump LH up to worse part of gaston then put RF on ticked (not mine) edges just R of groove and bring RH into best part of the hold below LH. Reach over for LH sidepull then step RF through to a low foothold and RH to obvious hold above. LF steps through to big foothold and take LH sidepull then into finishing groove of TWTR.
Didn't get it today unfortunately, could do with finding a shake before the top bit.
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Loads dry & cleaned now, even stuff on the LHS looking there or thereabouts.
Might be talking to myself on this now but I brushed off some more footholds at the crux today and found a better way, might not work for the tall or long-legged.
Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
From hands in top of flake, RH out to undercut in overlap then LH to crimp just above. Sort feet then LH to gaston and RH to crimp. Move feet again so that LF is high and weight is on that & RH. Bump LH up to worse part of gaston then put RF on diagonal edge near RH so that you're cammed in between LH & RF, now bring RH quite easily into best part of the hold below LH .....
Or just LH in top of flake, feet high and RH straight to sidepull like another fella did today.
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Thanks guys, found it OK to match the gaston with high feet. Conditions on it felt much better this eve so that probably helped. Decent route, might give the direct finish a scrub next time.
Amazing how quickly the routes to the right of this have dried back since this time last week. They all need a good scrub mind. I noticed that Armstice Day has chalk on it now too, but Whose Line still looks dirty.
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I cleaned Taylor Made this evening, a few damp/smeggy holds in the back of the roof.
Nemesis & Armblaster looked dry but dirty.
Jug Jockey looked dry but dirty
Roof Warrior getting cleaned and climbed.
Cry of Despair cleaned and chalked, and re-bolted this eve (thanks Alastair)
That was the River, Rapid City, This is the Sea all dry and chalked.
Old Man River seeing lots of action - direct finish needs cleaning.
Up The River Without a Paddle is dry but needs a good clean (and is well worth the effort)
All routes rightwards to War Memorial are dry but need cleaning. Une Crime Passionel looked like it had some chalk on it, but needs a quick brush.
All the 7s in the middle section are clean and chalked, and busy
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Any current knowledge of the conditions on the Cornice after Saturday's deluge, Thanks.
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Check out @ BrianSmacks's Tweet: https://twitter.com/BrianSmacks/status/490929539405873153
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All the stuff to the left was covered in sludge, but there were chalked hand holds. Stuff further right was all dry and being climbed, but Sunday was very humid.
I started to brush the footholds on 'this is the sea', but it was like pushing mud around. All handholds felt in reasonable knick for the conditions though.
If i had time to start cleaning the left...
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Plenty of dry rock and dry routes to go at now, worth taking a stiff brush and get involved. Perfect conditions down there today with a slight breeze.
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Looking good down there as of last night (24th July). Although if people are psyched for nemesis, jug jockey, gran techo etc. then it's worth getting up them and giving them a good brush a couple of days before going back with a red point in mind. Whilst all this stuff looks dry, there's generally moisture trapped under the dry crud, that needs exposing to dry off properly.
Went up "Taylor Made" last night, big up to Mark for initial cleaning. I gave it a further scrub and it'll probably be climbable by Saturday if 7c's well within your grade :weakbench: (take a brush though, every little helps!). Just one damp, crucial crux hold. Flippin well good route!! Spicy boulder start followed by chunky roof bizniss!
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In addition to all the above-
Snails of the Riverbank now cleaned. Apparently has lost a hold, so tricky crux through 2nd bulge. worth doing.
Beezlebub has seen a few ascents
Mandy got cleaned today, not sure about the 7bs to the right of it though
Nemisis was getting it's initial scrubbing
Taylor Made in redpointable nick now, wild route!
A few obvious things in need of a brush- Jug Jockey, Old Man River direct finish and Up the River without a Paddle (best 6c+ in Peak...)
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Been a couple of weeks since my last visit but how are things looking at the moment?
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Condensed to fuck last night, right hand side climbable (cosmo etc). left hand side and roofs had slippery kippers everywhere. May have got better today however.
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Any updates from Wednesday/ today??
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Very Dry this morning.
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Don't suppose anyone's been down today/this evening during the monsoon? :fishing:
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Have people been climbing down there this week? Keen for tomorrow but not sure if it's worth the trip or just to head straight to the tor. Would appreciate any news.
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Chris Craggs said on the other channel it was dry, and apparently wcj cornice is still good, so you're probably fine. A report back would be good :)
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It's absolutely tip top! :2thumbsup:
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Unleashing and cordless wet with run off at top today. Occasional damp/smeggy bits elsewhere but mostly still bone. We were on that was the river & old man river, people were on nemesis, the 7b right of snails, bored and the usual 7as.
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Cleaned up rapid city, DO NOT cross the roof. there is a very large block that is loose.
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cleaned up Clematis, and gave Trombone Practice a going over( had already had one cleaning from Ru last week) really enjoyed TP.
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cornice was mint this mourning, but then the mist descended and everything became gopping wet, but i suspect it will dry out very quickly, if your worried about the rain we had on mon/tues, don't its held up fine.
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Mate was there this mourning said was all good still
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Perfect today. Every route looked in perfect nick with the sole exception of Taylor Made which had a wet streak.
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Nice one stone really glad to hear it
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There today, all looks good, wall had started seeping between jug jockey and roof warrior. Don't think there is a route there though
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Yes Dreadnaught is always the first to go and the last to dry. Still the crag has done very well this year despite the late start.
Could have been classed as a vintage year if more got cleaned and done.
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Yes Dreadnaught is always the first to go and the last to dry. Still the crag has done very well this year despite the late start.
Could have been classed as a vintage year if more got cleaned and done.
Is the Cornice drying out at all linked to whether or not there's been a lot of snow during the Winter? No snow this year = vintage. Snowballing opportunities other years = a glimmer of hope, nothing more.
:devangel:
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2010 and 11 were good years with snowy winters. It's to do with summers as this last winter and spring were very wet.
Still dry today.
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Still dry today.
This is heart wrenching to hear for someone with an injured pulley :'( :boohoo:
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The big roof on the left starting to turn into a waterfall.... The rest was fine
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Anyone been lately?
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Walked past yesterday.
Generally wet with possibilities at the right end. Love amongst the Butterflies right looked mostly dry.
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Any updates from the weekend? Thanks.
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Right side slabs dry, someone was on Powerplant on Saturday, Clarion call area has some wet holds but people were climbing them yesterday. Roof warrior/cry of despair look wet but getting there (CoD looks like it just has the normal big wet undercut)
Get down and take brushes, nows the best time to get some grime off.
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Thanks Guy, I'll be heading there tomorrow to have a look at Powerplant. Will take a big brush!
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Had a report of a rockfall at the cornice recently, blamed on climbers. Has anyone noticed anything? From the above it doesn't sound like much climbing has been going on.
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Everything on the right hand end now dry
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Succubuss. clarion martial. music, big zipper. Board of lies. Four door. Power plant. K3. R n p. Butterflies. Unleasing. Cordless. All had people on today and lots of cleaning
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Nice! What time of day do you reckon it'll be bearably cold?
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I wad climbing there from 11 till 10 and with the breeze coming through it was brilliant all day
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Nice! What time of day do you reckon it'll be bearably cold?
Wind dependent really. I arrived at 5pm yesterday and it was pretty warm initially. 8-9pm was decent and the holds were suffering from condensation slightly approaching 10.
I'd imagine late morning would be ideal?
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Totally condensed out last night. A mist had rolled through the tunnel and the air was completely still. A stiff breeze should help rectify things
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Cleaned up the top of devinshire arms to do powerpants. Gave big zipper a real good going over and did a few laps of it to get it clean. The hold inbetween the 3rd and 4th is a lot looser than last year but i couldn't take it off but it wobbles like crazy and will come out at some point. Might sika it up if i can be arsed at some point.
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Gave big zipper a real good going over. The hold inbetween the 3rd and 4th is a lot looser than last year but i couldn't take it off but it wobbles like crazy.
Do you mean Big Zipper or War Memorial? Don't remember anything loose on BG yestetrday but the block/resting jug below roof on WM doesn't feel like it'll last long. Good of the new guide to anticipate it's demise and upgrade it in advance.
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On big zipper
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Haydn where on power plant do you move right to do the Powerpants link, had a quick look yesterday and it looked pretty cool!
It looked like you get the flat hold after the knee bar shenanigans then head up and right on undercuts??
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Are things staying dry down there? Any more routes clean and ready?
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Any more routes clean and ready?
Not prepared to put the work in yourself?
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Gave big zipper a real good going over. The hold inbetween the 3rd and 4th is a lot looser than last year but i couldn't take it off but it wobbles like crazy.
Do you mean Big Zipper or War Memorial? Don't remember anything loose on BG yestetrday but the block/resting jug below roof on WM doesn't feel like it'll last long. Good of the new guide to anticipate it's demise and upgrade it in advance.
WM was sketchy at the end of last season (something came off then too I think). With respect to BZ is that the captive spike / press before you move up and right? That's been wobbling for a long time, good job Nat got it ticked if it's on the way out!
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Nah went to the jug cliped the 4th. Then immediately headed right along undercuts using the big flattie for your feet. Its dead bunched
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Thats the one paul. It was definitely less wobbly last year though im sure
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the WM flake needs trundling on a very quiet day! its definitely looser...
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Cleaned up 32 today. Excellent route. Amazing moves. Best conditions all week today
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I partly cleaned Love Amongst the Butterflies last weekend, brush not big enough for a thorough job. Seems brilliant; climbed maybe 50-60% of moves, but pulled off a left hand tooth shaped flake near the top, it landed somewhere in the rubarb/ nettles so couldn't find to glue if crucial. I hope it wasn't crucial...
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it landed somewhere in the rubarb/ nettles so couldn't find to glue if crucial. I hope it wasn't crucial...
It landed on path about a meter to the side of us (not in the nettles), hence us looking up at you with the 'holy shit' face. Good luck finding it though.
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Another piece of Cornice departed completely without warning today, this was the resting jug just below the overlap on martial music, fortunately Haydn was alert and moved double quick. Take care out there, folks.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/09/11c5926d68f02449639b4307fd294bb7.jpg)
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it landed somewhere in the rubarb/ nettles so couldn't find to glue if crucial. I hope it wasn't crucial...
It landed on path about a meter to the side of us (not in the nettles), hence us looking up at you with the 'holy shit' face. Good luck finding it though.
sorry about that! Fortunately it wasn't much bigger than a tooth either, unlike the chunk that almost took out Haydn today...
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No worries, it always sounds worse when it hit those gravely paths.
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(http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/417145_20471_XL.jpg)
...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/09/11c5926d68f02449639b4307fd294bb7.jpg)
::)
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What's condition of the left end around nemesis, big ripoff round jug jockey and right side around cry of despair please, thinking of heading up Monday
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Im personaly hopful of nemesis being dry by monday. Bricktop has had a good cleaning and chalking
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LH side nearly there today. team on cry of despair.
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couldnt see a wet hold on there today :clap2:
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All dry tonight