21

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Duncan Disorderly on Today at 04:35:19 pm »

What's the fucking point... Club

M: Paddling in't lakes - fun.
T: Sheaf bloc - Tried hard, did all traverse moves, now feels only marginally impossible...
W: Matterhorn Ridge with the GF - Brilliant post work adventure climbing - loose, easy and bugger all decent gear... Mmmmm 
T: Shoulder kicked off! Not happy at all.
F: Shoulder and hip kicking off - managed to get a last minute quack appointment - hip pain is almost unbearable! Like someone is sticking a red hot poker into my groin!
S: Shoulder seems back to normal - hip felt like murder! Sat in a hot tub under the stars and drank cocktails...
S: Hungover.

All seems to have gone south recently - no idea what the issue with the hip is, always been tight but seems to have stepped up a gear with random bouts of agonizing pain. Thankfully ROM isn't affected and standing up actually helps... Got a physio appt now so am going to push for a scan... All this is going to be after Verdon next week though so I've got a full bag of Ibuprofen and Naproxen and will dose meself up before abbing into owt and hope for the best... Arse! 

22

power club / Re: Power Club 752 6 - 12 May 2024

« Last post by Nibile on Today at 04:13:34 pm »

Tue - AM as usual.
...Board fitness increased by 100%, this inevitably means that problems' difficulty must have decreased by 100%, because the glass is always, always half empty.

Hah!

Remind me, what's the usual AM routine? Still committed to the no rest days protocol?

Hey Duma!
Yes, more or less I'm still trying to do something every day, it's as much a mental effort as it is a way to factor in some extra work, in the long run the small micro sessions and the consequent caloric consumption (albeit little), are something.
The usual AM session consists of a set of goblet squat and press, a set of dumbbells thruster and a set of pull ups, more or less back to back. Some days I go double, if I plan to just fingerboard in the evening (but I must admit that I almost never just fingerboard in the evening...). When I started I was also doing a set of ab-wheel, but I found that it wasn't very good for my posture (I have posterior pelvic tilt).
Cheers!

23

shootin' the shit / Re: U-S-A! The American Politics Thread.

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 03:50:55 pm »

A reluctant resurrection, but wtaf

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/article/2024/may/12/trump-rally-speech-hannibal-lecter

24

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 03:45:18 pm »

when we are actually stood beneath a crag we take in a range of visual clues that help us make sense of a combination of letters and numbers on the page: does the rock look solid; does it look compact and hard to protect; how tall is the cliff; how steep; are the lines obvious or hard to read, etc. etc.

Not an approach recommended after abseiling into a seacliff though, unless there is an easy escape route, or your jumar / runaway game is good.

25

shootin' the shit / Re: only joking

« Last post by Catcheemonkey on Today at 03:20:14 pm »

Do you think transparent coffins will catch on?

Remains to be seen.

26

news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread

« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 02:21:41 pm »

This is also all rather abstract when we actually use grades in context. Even if we simply have a picture with a line drawn on it and no description, when we are actually stood beneath a crag we take in a range of visual clues that help us make sense of a combination of letters and numbers on the page: does the rock look solid; does it look compact and hard to protect; how tall is the cliff; how steep; are the lines obvious or hard to read, etc. etc. Of course, having a guide book description adds even more information.

Ah, well that's all good as long as you are using grades for their primary purpose: to give information on difficulty to the aspirant ascentionist.

The problem comes when using grades to compare dissimilar routes in order to benchmark achievements, for example to compile a graded list where Century Crack is in some way comparable to Equilibrium. Leading to the reductio ad absurdum that WSS is harder than Right Wall because it takes most people a few more goes. Because E-grades consider the extra dimensions of risk and consequence inherent to trad, they can only be comparative within a genre – 'safe-but-sustained', 'bold-and-technical' to quote the Grit List from 25 years ago.

As for the H-grades idea, in my limited experience the E grades for harder climbs are indeed given for a hypothetical ascent without pre-inspection. That’s the only way a route such as Meshuga could merit E9: it’s straightforward if you have top-roped it, but working it all out going from the ground would be pretty exciting. At least comparable to onsighting Indian Face or Hubble

27

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 01:42:49 pm »

Probably didn't.

28

news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by sherlock on Today at 01:42:13 pm »

Wonder how long she rested between ascents?

29

shootin' the shit / Re: only joking

« Last post by Bradders on Today at 01:37:00 pm »

Someone tried to sell me a coffin yesterday.

I said that's the last thing I need.

30

shootin' the shit / Re: Cars, Cars, Fucking CARS !!

« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 01:32:04 pm »

We just got a megane 1.6 diesel and I guessed dit had never been done, so asked the garage to do it. They seemed a bit surprised...